PALESTINE, 



PAST AND PRESENT. 



BIBLICAL, LITERARY, AND SCIENTIFIC NOTICES. 



REV. HENRY sXoSBORN, A.M. 

PROF. NATURAL SCIENCE IN ROANOKE COLLEGE, SALEM, TA., MEMBER OE THE AMERICAN SCIENTIPT 
ASSOCIATION, AND HON. MEMBER OF MALTA (MEDITERRANEAN) SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTE. 



Original illustrations antr a <$tfa J|taj? of Palestine, 



BY THE AUTHOR. 




PHILADELPHIA: 
JAMES OHALLEN & SON, 

No. 25 South Sixth Street. 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO.— LINDSAY & BLAKISTON NEW YCEK: SHELDON, 

BLAKEMAN & CO BOSTON: PHILLIPS, SAMPSON & CO. 

CINCINNATI: RICKEY. MALLORY & CO CHICAGO: S. C. GRIGGS & CO. 



1859. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by 
HENRY S. OSBORN. 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Eastern District of 
Pennsylvania. 



STEREOTYPED BY L. JOHNSON & CO. 

PHILADELPHIA. 
PRINTED BY HENRY B. ASHMEAD. 



TO 

EEV. EDWAED. EOBINSON, LL.I). .!>.]>. 

OF UNION THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY, N. Y. 

TO WHOM THE AUTHOR IS INDEBTED FOR HIS FIRST CORRECT IMPRESSION'S OF 
BIBLICAL GEOGRAPHY. 

IS, BY HIS PERMISSION, DEDICATED BY HIS FORMER PUPIL, 

THE AUTHOR. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE 



Chapter I. — INTRODUCTORY — ROUTE ADOPTED - - - - - 17 

II. — PHOENICIA — ITS EARLY INFLUENCES 42 

III. — THE DRUZES - - - - 65 

IY. — INTERESTING MISSION-SCHOOLS— DEPARTURE FOR THE SOUTH - 98 

V.— ON THE WAY TO SIDON 110 

VI.— SIDON— ITS MISFORTUNES AND PRESENT RUINS - - - 142 

YIL— SAREPTA AND THE COUNTRY BETWEEN SIDON AND TYRE - - 107 

VIII.— TYRE— ITS HISTORY AND LEGENDS 190 

IX.— VISIT TO THE INTERIOR— THE CASTLE OF TIBERIAS - - - 207 

X. — ROUTE TO SAFED 229 

XI. — COUNTRY AND SCENES OF THE LAKE OF TIBERIAS - - -245 
XII.— TIBERIAS AND THE ROUTE TO NAZARETH - - - - 270 

Xin.— MOUNT TABOR— PLAIN OF ESDRAELON, ETC. .... 290 

XIV.— ANCIENT ARCHERS— SAMARIA— SYCHAR .... 314 

XV.— FROM BIREH TO JERUSALEM 343 

XVI.— VISIT TO BETHLEHEM— FEAST OF THE NATIVITY— BEAUTY OF THE 

BETHLEHEMITES -------- 353 

XVII. — VISIT TO THE DEAD SEA— PLAIN OF JERICHO - 373 

XVHI. — ON THE PLAIN OF JERICHO - 391 

XIX.— BROOK KELT— JERICHO— BANKS OF THE JORDAN 403 

v 



vi 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 



XX.— NATIONS AROUND— PASSAGE OF THE JORDAN 415 

XXL— RETURN FROM JORDAN— FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA - - - - 427 

XXII.— JERICHO— DOMESTIC LIFE— VISIT TO THE DEAD SEA - 438 

XXIIL— NOTICES OF THE DEAD SEA ------- 449 

XXIV. — THE EVIDENT VOLCANIC ORIGIN OF THE DEAD SEA, AND THE IN- 
FERENCES RELATIVE TO THE FUTURE 462 
XXV.— WALKS ABOUT JERUSALEM - - - 482 
XXVI.— FERTILITY OF THE SOIL OF PALESTINE IN PAST DAYS— PROOFS THAT 

THE SOIL IS STILL CAPABLE OF THE SAME PRODUCTIVENESS 500 

XXVII.— DEPARTURE FROM THE PLAIN OF SHARON - - - - 510 

XXVIIL— JOPPA— DEPARTURE FOR MALTA— HOMEWARD - - - 525 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



$ieel (Smgrabings. 

HANEEFA THE BETHLEHEMITE (FRONTISPIECE) - 

TYRE - - - ..... 

Cljromograplnc dBirgratongs. 

BEIRUT ........ 

BIRDS OF PALESTINE - - - - - - 

SYRIAN CASTLE - - - " 

LAKE TIBERIAS 
FLOWERS OF PALESTINE 
MAP OF PALESTINE 

W&aob (Jfotgraimrgs. 

BY LOUDERBACH AND HOFFMAN. 
MOHAMMEDAN POSTURES ...... 

LANDING UPON THE ARABS ------ 

QUARANTINE KITCHEN ...... 

CACTUS PLANT ------- r 

WALL-TOP - - - - 

YANKEE-TURKISH CLOCK ------- 

VIEW SOUTH OF BEIRUT 
RUFFLE-CUP ACORN 

RUINED COAST-TOWER - - • 

STRANGE VEGETATION 

WELL-TOP -------- 

SYRIAN COFFEE-CUP — FINDGIN ...... 

PLAN OF THE HARBOR OF SIDON ..... 

ANCIENT PORT OF SIDON AS AT PRESENT - 

GOLD STATER OF ALEXANDER ------ 

RUINS OF SAREPTA - - - - | - 

RUINS OF BRIDGE OVER THE ABOU L'ASWAD - - - - 

BRIDGE OVER THE LEONTES 

TYRE FROM THE NORTH ------ 

SPINE OF THE CLDARIS ------- 



ENGRAVED BY PAGE 
JOHN SARTAIN. 

SAMUEL SARTAIN - 190 

L. N. ROSENTHAL - - 26 

F. MORAS - - - 120 

L. N. ROSENTHAL - 206 

L. N. ROSENTHAL - - 2+4 

F. MORAS - - 29(3 

OSBORN - - - 600 

DESIGNED BY PAGE 

WHITE 31 

WHITE - - .37 

PERKINS - - 41 

PERKINS - - 88 

PERKINS - - 89 

PERKINS - - - 94 

WHITE - - 119 

PERKINS - - - 120 

LOUDERBACH - - 124 

PERKINS - - - 134 

PERKINS - - 135 

PERKINS - - - 136 

OSBORN - - 142 

WHITE - - - 149 

BIGOT - - - 166 

WHITE - - - 175 

LOUDERBACH - - 185 

LOUDERBACH - - 186 

WHITE - - - 1SS 

BIGOT - - - 183 



vii 



viii 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PLAN OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TYRE - 

TEAR-BOTTLE ----- 

NICOLO'S BATH - - - - - 

LAKE OF TIBERIAS FROM NEAR SAFED 

MOUNT HERMON - - - 

BEDOUIN PLOUGH ----- 

BEDOUIN AND BEDOUIN WOMEN 

CITY AND LAKE OF TIBERIAS, LOOKING EAST 

KEFR CANA, LOOKING NORTHEAST 

NAZARETH, LOOKING SOUTH-SOUTHWEST - 

BEVELED STONE - - - - 

TURKISH HORSE-SHOE ... - 

ENDOR AND NAIN, SOUTH OF TABOR - 

PLAIN OF ESDRAELON ... - 

MOUNTAIN-PASS ... - 

AMMONITES .... - 

VENUS SYRIACA ... - 

APSES OF CHURCH AT SAMARIA - 

VIEW OF SAMARIA - - - - 

SYCHAR AND THE VALLEY, LOOKING SOUTHEAST - 

MOUNTAINS GERIZIM AND EBAL 

SPINE OF THE CIDARIS AND NERINEA 

MOULDING OF THE TOMB OF ABSALOM 

GROTTO OF THE NATIVITY 

BETHLEHEM - - - - - 

PLAN OF MOSQUE AT HEBRON 

ARABS ON DONKEYS - - - - 

PLAIN OF JERICHO - - - 

RUDE MOSAIC - - - - - 

WOMAN CHURNING - 

ANCIENT CASTLE NEAR JERICHO 

BETHANY . - 

TWO COINS - 

RUINS ON HILL-TOPS - 

SHOBA ------ 

PLAIN OF SHARON AND LYDDA - - * 

RAMLEH - 

JAFFA ------ 

GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE DEAD SEA 



DESIGNED BY PAGE 

OSBORN - - 191 

- BIGOT ... 228 
WHITE - - - 232 

- WHITE - - - 242 
LOUDERBACH - - 247 

- PERKINS - - - 259 
WHITE - - - 262 

- WHITE - - - 271 
WHITE - - - 278 

- WHITE - - - 279 
BIGOT - - - 294 

- PERKINS - - - 296 
WHITE - - - 297 

- WHITE ... 307 
LOUDERBACH - - 320 

- BIGOT - - - 321 
BIGOT - - - 322 

- WHITE - - - 323 
PERKINS - - 325 

- PERKINS - - - 329 
WHITE- - - 337 

- BIGOT - - - 339 
BIGOT - - - 348 

- PERKINS - - - 358 
WHITE - - - 361 

- BIGOT - - - 364 
WHITE - - - 376 

- WHITE - - - 380 
OSBORN - - 402 

- WHITE - - - 440 
LOUDERBACH - - 479 

- PERKINS - - 483 
BIGOT - - - 486 

- LOUDERBACH - - 511 
LOUDERBACH - - 513 

- LOUDERBBACH - - 514 
WHITE - - - 520 

- PERKINS - - - 523 
OSBORN - - 540 



PALESTINE, 

PAST AND PRESENT. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY THE ROUTE ADOPTED. 

We left New York on the 20th of June, and in a few 
hours were upon the ocean. As we had previously 
crossed the Atlantic twice, much of the ordinary novelty 
of a sea-voyage had vanished, giving place to new 
interests which we supposed would bear upon our 
future examinations. Our readers who have had 
courage to enlist in the travel will not find these 
interests difficult to understand, though they are 
connected with some of those ocean- mysteries which 
are peculiar to navigation. A few mornings after our 
departure, in reviewing the instruments upon which I 
was to depend hereafter for my foreign examinations. 
I was invited by the captain to see some chronometers 
which he keeps and watches over with marvellous 
solicitude. One of these is particularly his pet; and 

2 17 



18 



LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE. 



he assured me that in its " rate of time" keeping 
during eleven months it has not varied one-tenth of 
a second, whilst another varied but one-fifth. We, 
who are satisfied if our clocks and watches vary only 
one minute in a year, can scarcely credit such per- 
fection. Now, every thing depends upon these little 
instruments in our calculation of distance from land. 
The safety of our noble ship and the lives of all 
on board hang upon the solemn, steady "clicks" of 
these little time-keepers balanced on pivots away in 
some secluded part of the captain's state-room. The 
captain, with another instrument, (the sextant,) watches 
the sun a few moments in the morning, till he has 
found its elevation above the horizon at the instant 
of time indicated by the chronometer which, if set to 
New York time, would indicate the time at New York 
at that moment of his observation, while his observa- 
tion itself indicates the time at the spot on the 
ocean where he actually is; and as every minute 
requires a definite number of miles' sailing to make 
that difference, so the difference of time between New 
York and that ocean-spot determines the ship's position 
in the course eastward, or its position in longitude. 
Another observation at noon determines the position in 
latitude. With this information gathered from these 
observations, the captain retires to his little room, and 
there, by the aid of these wordless companions, he 
calculates the problem of the ship's position on the 
trackless ocean. Now, should that little clock, by a 
jar, or from forge tfulness in winding, or from any other 



ERROR IN THE CHRONOMETER. 



19 



cause, vary ten seconds, (especially off the coast toward 
which we are rapidly sailing,) it might cause the 
certain destruction of the ship, despite the most skilful 
management of the best of captains. 

A new source of error has just been pointed out to 
me. We would scarcely think that it consists simply 
in the position in which these chronometers are put on 
the vessel ; yet it is very correctly supposed that many 
vessels have been wrecked from the magnetic attraction 
which falsified the tale of this little instrument, in which 
the most perfect confidence is placed. It is sometimes 
startling when amidst our sunniest hours visions of 
dangers break suddenly but silently upon us. 

Another of those extraordinary difficulties which 
attend the crossing of the ocean, occurred to me this 
morning. I spoke of error in the little time-pieces as 
a cause of loss and shipwreck. But even perfect accu- 
racy here is only tributary to the general result, which 
depends upon the correction of another error, every hour 
increasing, and to be found in the earth's attraction upon 
the ship's compass. The captain finds just where he is 
to-day amid this vast wilderness of waters. He makes 
no further calculation till to-morrow, but steers by the 
compass, according to the pointing of its little finger. 
When we left New York, it was found that the needle 
pointed seven degrees from the true north, so that 
when the captain wished to sail north he must keep 
in mind that the needle is pointing seven degrees to the 
west of the course he must sail. Now, if this little 
guide would always remain seven degrees wrong, w T e 



20 



VARIATION OF THE COMPASS. 



could make allowance for its error. But this variation 
of the compass differs in different places; and this 
morning we have discovered that from seven it has 
been for days increasing in error, until now (off the 
west coast of Ireland) it has run up to twenty-eight 
degrees of variation ; and, were we to steer by its little 
finger now, we should ere long find ourselves on the 
coast of Iceland, or perhaps Greenland, instead of 
England. Thus on the ocean, by day and by night, in 
the calm as well as in the tempest, we are in the hands 
of a mysterious power watching over us in all the riches 
of his goodness and mercy. And it would seem as 
though the sentiment expressed by the Psalmist (Ps. 
cvii. 24) would absorb our souls, and "all would praise 
the Lord for his goodness and the " works of his hand," 
and the mysteries of " the deep," would become fresh 
and never-ceasing springs of devotion, and a high 
season of loyalty to God and of heartfelt worship would 
surround the Christian travelling amid the grandeurs 
of the deep. But it has always appeared unaccountably 
just the reverse. There are some " remarkable deliver- 
ances" from the rock and the tempest; but this is 
attributed to the skill of the captain. There are safe 
passages through most trying seas, when many vessels 
have sprung a leak and all perished; but this is 
attributed to the excellence of the ship. We have^ 
storms and terrors to make all feel their dependence, 
and there are scenes of brilliant beauty and of gran- 
deur, to make our hearts overflow with gratitude to 
God in the thought that we are "His offspring." 



'•'BEFORE THE GALE." 



21 



But all these terrors and beauties are considered the 
natural consequences of sea-life, and seem to lead the 
souls of many to find the cause of the one in nothing 
stronger than " a hard wind," and of the other in nothing 
higher than a blue sky. It is strange that so little true 
religion, with so faint an acknowledgment of God, exists 
among sea-faring men, around whom such mighty 
motives are incessantly gathering. 

The distance from Cape Clear — the most southern 
point of Ireland — to Liverpool is three hundred miles ; 
and before a stiff gale we rushed into the harbor and 
dropped anchor in little more than a day and a night, 
and this without a puff of steam, making over ten miles 
an hour through a heavy sea and considerable fog. 
Some of our more moderate Z<me?-navigators would have 
sentenced our Yankee captain for such a headlong enter- 
prise ; and more than one on board thought, when the 
foam and spray dashed over us, and the ropes and the 
masts cracked with the pressure, that there was truly 
a large share of "the fearful" in "the sublime." We 
are not strangers to the ocean, nor to its fierce blasts; 
and yet it was soul-stirring to see our noble ship " laying 
to" off the proud peaks of Holyhead in a most piercing 
gale, awaiting the coming of the pilot from Liverpool. 
And when the little pilot-boat came dashing over the 
green billows and through the white foam, flinging 
aside each curling crest and landing its charge so 
safely by the side of our lofty vessel, and the mighty 
wings on our masts gathered up the gale and flew 
onward, passing other ships, and gliding by the 



22 



ARRIVAL AT PARIS. 



breakers unharmed,- — and when the tolling bells on the 
buoj s and the warning beacons and light-houses and 
anchored boats, significant of hidden rocks and of death 
lurking beneath these storm-lashed billows, all cried out, 
" Beware ! beware !" as we rushed so safely by, — we 
thought we saw something of the image of Him who 
" holds the winds in his fists ;" and while we admired 
the skill and the wonderful principles that made such 
a gale subservient to our progress amid such dangers, 
we yet saw in it all but the reflection, though faint, of 
a higher Power and a more amazing wisdom. 

The distance from Liverpool to London is accom- 
plished in a few hours and with great rapidity. After 
some stay in London and some addition to our instru- 
ments which we considered necessary for the prosecution 
of our examinations in Syria, we finally left for the Conti- 
nent by steamer from Southampton, landing at Havre ; 
and though our baggage was small, a large amount 
having been left in London, it soon subjected us to all 
the inconvenience of unpacking, explanation, and sus- 
picion. Perhaps the most expeditious and, in other 
respects, most desirable route East is through France, 
by Paris to Marseilles, and thence by Malta to Syria, 
which route we adopted on returning. 

Leaving Havre for Paris, we passed through the 
smiling fields intervening, arriving at the latter place 
in the evening. After some dodging and running, some 
inquiry as to direction, and a little rubbing of our rusty 
French, we found ourselves at our quarters near the 
Church of the Madeleine. 



FRIEND IN" TROUBLE. 



23 



From London I was accompanied by iny friend Rev. 
Dr. R., of Richmond, whose polished courtesy in con- 
versation and manner, and cheerful and accomplished 
appreciation of the beautiful, made every thing in Paris 
the more pleasant to me for his companionship. From 
London we had under care a carpet-bag of a reverend 
gentleman from Vermont, who had preceded us to 
Paris. On hearing of our arrival, he called at the 
hotel, and leaving a word of thanks for our absent 
self with Dr. R., was about to leave the hall with 
his carpet-bag. But Monsieur Valet was upon him 
quicker than the Philistines upon Samson ; and, catch- 
ing a stranger to the hotel in the act of escaping 
with a carpet-bag which was known to have been 
deposited by me, and not being able to speak a word 
of French, he was about to be treated very summarily, 
my friend being unable to account for the genealogy of 
the man or the bag, until, having been sent for, we 
informed the clerk of the facts, and the gentleman and 
his bag were released. He afterward stated that he 
never felt so much the necessity of language as on 
that night, when, having wandered from his inter- 
preters, he might have been locked up to meditate till 
morning in default of some intelligent explanation. 
Leaving Paris, we passed through Belgium, Aix-la- 
Chapelle, — known at home by the name of "Aachen/' 
pronounceable only by Germans and Arabs, — thence to 
Cologne, — at home Koln, — which, from Coleridge's defi- 
nition of its odors, might naturally be supposed to be 
the proper place for the invention of Cologne water. 



24 



LOSING AND FINDING FRIENDS. 



Thus far we have used the railway entirely; but now, 
boarding the little narrow steamboats of the Rhine, we 
pass up to Cassel, the Rhine port of the musty " Frank- 
fort-on-the-Main," and thence by rail to Strasbourg, 
noted for its clock and tower, and onward and upward 
on the Rhine to Basle, where every thing, save the 
"Hotel of the Three Kings," is dark and dim with a 
kind of premature old age. Now we may take "the 
diligence" to Neuchatel, on the lake of the same name, 
and steam it to Iverdon, and thence by land to 
Lausanne, on the Lake of Geneva; and, though sum- 
mer, you can see the snow-clad peaks of the Alps 
before entering the steamer for the city of Geneva, at 
the most southern extremity of the lake. 

Much information can be obtained at Geneva in the 
libraries, which ought to be visited, if the traveller has 
leisure, before leaving for Biblical lands, as many old 
histories and sources of instruction are there which we 
have seen nowhere else, even in German collections. 

Here my friend Dr. R. found the limit of his wan- 
dering, and after a few days I left the city alone for 
Milan, to meet another friend as I cross the Rialto at 
Venice, preparatory to leaving for Austria. 

From Venice to Trieste, across the Adriatic, is but a 
short distance; and the traveller can enjoy a visit to 
Vienna by railroad, and, returning, take a steamer at 
Trieste for Syria without further trouble, — though my 
route was somewhat altered, as my friend, who agreed 
to share part of his journey with me, desired to pass 
through Italy. After several routes, separate and 



ARRIVAL IN SYRIA. 



25 



together, we met at Malta for the journey to Syria; and 
thus, with an excellent brother and companion, perse- 
vering in habit, with a cultivated taste and genial 
disposition, we left this sunny isle, with the intention 
of revisiting it on our return, and set sail for Alexandria, 
one thousand miles eastward. In after-time we left the 
same port for Beirut in Syria, midway between the 
northeast and southeast corners of the Mediterranean, 
and four hundred miles distant. 

We might meet an objection when we recommend so 
long a preparatory travel; and yet much of that material 
which is so necessary to a full understanding of even 
Syria in its historic and scientific features is to be found 
alone in the libraries and resources, private and public, 
on that route, and which no one who wishes to make 
science and history tributary in the riches of their power 
to his aid, can well afford to lose before travelling into 
Palestine. 

Without any hesitation, we would say that the most 
natural order of travel in visiting the Holy Land would 
be from the north, commencing at no point more favor- 
ably than at Beirut, in the land of ancient Phoenicia. 
Its appearance as we look southward upon the city is 
incomparably beautiful, varied, and classic in its 
scenery and associations. The deep blue of the sea 
contrasts so mysteriously with the gray color of the 
Lebanon Mountains, from whose hoary tops and flanks 
the rain-storms of ages seem to have washed every 
trace of color into the blue waters of the Mediterranean, 



26 



FIRST VIEWS. 



which rolls its long line of white-crested waves up to its 
cragged base, so that 

"It is a fearful thing 
To stand upon the beetling verge and see 
Where storm and lightning from that huge gray -wall 
Have tumbled down vast blocks and at the base 
Dash'd them in fragments, and to lay thine ear 
Over the dizzy depths, and hear the sound 
Of winds that struggle with the winds below 
Come up with ocean-murmurs." 

Beirut stands on a little eminence on the northern 
shore of a promontory jutting out westward five miles 
and a half from the main coast-line. 

Hence, in obtaining a position most favorable to an 
extensive view, we look toward the southeast. 

The spurs of the Lebanon range just described appear 
east of our position, on the extreme left of the view, and 
partly begirt at their base by a narrow plain, through 
which runs the Beirut River, the mouth of which only 
can be seen in the view. Sixteen miles to the north- 
east of Beirut two little rough streams find their 
sources in the mountains and soon join to form one 
torrent, which rushes headlong through crevices and 
valleys its own simple current seems to have formed, 
and empties itself into the waters of the St. George's 
Bay. This little silvery line forms the northeastern 
limit of the promontory, and is known as the Beirut 
River.* Next in view to the right is seen the quaran- 

* At the head of the western branch of this rivulet in Wady or Valley * 
Tarshish is a cavern of great depth, which has never yet been explored. 
Mr. Porter, who travelled there in 1853, speaks of two, though he entered 
neither. One was apparently very deep, with water at the bottom. The 



ST. GEORGE AND THE DRAGON. 



27 



tine-ground, with its few houses ; and, at its terminus 
in the sea., two rocky tops appear, almost submerged, 
and memorable to us as those against which our boats 
were nearly wrecked in approaching the shore. Be- 
tween these quarantine-houses and the mountains, at 
the distance of half an hour's walk from the former, is 
shown the cave or hole from which issued the dragon, 
in slaying which on the plain near this spot, St. George 
made himself so memorable, and from whom the bay 
has taken its name. Farther to the right, the hilly site 
of the town rises rapidly above the shore, beautified with 
the verdure of the mulberry-tree and the prickly pear, 
(the cactus.) Still further, the "cube-like" dwellings 
of the inhabitants crowd into sight, and dismantled walls 
and edifices appear, with two minarefs, and with flag- 
staffs, indicating the consuls' residences. Yet to the 
right, and in the midst of the view, the hills of Beirut 
rise higher, and by the aid of our spy-glass we can see 
evidences of ease and elegance. Occasionally a verandah 
with Saracenic arches, a tasteful walk, or some culti- 
vated spot, discovers an idea of the beautiful cherished 
for itself, and thrills one's heart in a strange land and 
amid strange sounds and sights. Like well-known 
words of pleasure on the page of a barbarous dialect do 
these spots of cultivated beauty appear in this unknown 
land ! How they speak heart-words to invite you where 
all else is in a strange dialect ! Farther on, the ridge 



noted cave is called Huwet Tarshish, and is sixteen miles from Beirut, on 
the road to Meraj ; and about two miles east of it there are several others 
in the same region. — Porter's Five Years in Damascus, vol. ii. p. 290. 



28 



VIEW FROM THE STEAMER. 



completes its elevation and its beauty, and then, 
gradually descending by a brown and almost naked 
sand-bank, it disappears in the Mediterranean. It is a 
curious circumstance, of which I am assured by old 
inhabitants, that this bank is annually travelling at the 
rate of several feet toward the sea, — a result due to 
strong winds from the east and south, which prevent 
vegetation alike with residence. 1 Around this scene 
the glittering and joyous waters of the sea cast life and 
beauty. 

"The countless, playful smiles 
Of sea-born waves." 2 

And then, when the memories of its histories spring 
up from their slumbers, touched into vigorous life by 
the appearance ©f some mountain range or peak, some 
glittering river or new vegetation, some costume or 
habit, — it is then that the traveller may lean on the 
gunwale of his little bark, and, in view of all, be lost 
in a magic crowd of fancies and of stirring, solemn 
thoughts, which quite cause him to forget that he is a 
stranger and alone. Our little French steamer Osiris, 
of about five hundred tons' burden, was sufficiently 
large to accommodate a strange variety of characters 
in the persons of Turks and Jews, Christians and 
Infidels. Here was a chance to form an acquaintance 

1 One old inhabitant informed me that its progression was not less.than 
eight feet a year; and yet, from an examination, I suppose this may be 
too great an estimate, though the effect of some such movement is quite 
traceable. These "eastward winds''' have in several instances covered up 
small buildings, and are rapidly performing the same burial for others. 
The same force is active in other places along the coast. 

2 iEschylus, Prom. Vinct. 89. 



THE ISRAELITE PATRIARCH. 



29 



which might be available in discovering the motives 
bringing so many to these lands. A most accessible 
white-bearded patriarch was found in a J ewish father — 
though probably not a rabbi — on his way to Jerusalem. 
I had met with him before in my travels in the Medi- 
terranean. He was on his return from Germany and 
America, whither he had gone to beg money for his 
brethren in the Holy Land, Speaking nothing but 
Arabic, German, some Spanish, and a little Italian, he 
had nevertheless visited many of the scattered Israelites 
in various nations, and gathered a large amount of 
money, which had been forwarded to Palestine, the 
immediate design of which I did not learn till I visited 
the Jews at Tiberias on the Lake of Galilee. This 
aged Israelite would have formed just such a treasurer 
and agent as the most anxious economist would have 
desired. He always boarded himself on the plainest 
vegetable fare, cooking his meals by an alcohol taper 
and in perfect consistency with all the minutiae of cere- 
monial forms and cleanliness. When the wind or the 
rain put out the light of his little flame-heated kitchen, 
or when the rolling of the vessel prevented Turks or 
Christians from performing their devotions, this old 
gentleman took his meals cold, but in devotion appeared 
as warm as ever, and as observant of all the forms, 
making him certainly, so far as externals were con- 
cerned, worthy of his name, — Zadoc Levi, or Levi the 
Just. He had been a resident of Jerusalem for more 
than twenty-two years, and was of great service to me 
in directions and information. 



30 



TUEKISH NOBLEMAN. 



I frequently sat by his side, reading difficult passages 
of Hebrew with him, questioning, objecting, and listening 
to the novel and sometimes mysterious legends which 
are to this day so tenaciously held in the Land. The 
acquaintance which this old Israelite had with the law 
of Moses and with all the various commentaries of the 
Talmud, together with traditions, was truly marvellous. 
Many strange pointings and cabalistic letters in the 
Hebrew text which I had been gathering for years and 
from various intricate sources seemed, so far as I could 
remember, to be household words to the old Israelite. 
But we were to spend some time in quarantine ; and I 
hoped to tax his resources again. 

Our Turkish passengers of the respectable class 
preferred the parts of the vessel aft the wheel. One 
Mussulman particularly attracted attention. He was a 
genuine Turk, from turban to divan, of that class of 
which a definition is so hard to be had. Being an 
effendi (nobleman) and lately from Mecca, he travelled 
with servants, especially one little Nubian slave who 
waited on him constantly, or rather on his pipe, and who 
was as completely entangled in the mazes of his power, 
his frowns and smiles, as an insect in the threads of a 
spider's web. Here was an opportunity to learn some- 
thing, personally and socially, of a Turk. But how to 
approach the man through the sullen haughtiness with 
which he enveloped himself we knew not. Seated on 
his richly-embroidered carpet, he seemed quite willing 
to encourage the distance with which every one treated 
him. 



AN ACQUAINTANCE. 



31 



The Turks cherish some contempt for all languages, 
their own excepted ; and the little Turkish which we 
could master was not sufficient for the necessities of life, 
much less for an appearance in court. Whether it was 
in condescension to my long-neglected beard, or from 
ennui or curiosity on his own part, yet after some slight 
advances I found myself in broken conversation with 
him. The little Nubian boy (his pipe-lighter) was 
weak from a severe sickness, and occasionally received 
a smile from his lord and a half-lion-like caress, which, 
with other gleams of sunshine, quite moderated my 
impressions of the historically " dark and cruel Turkish 
heart." 



32 DEVOTIONS "PERFORMED." 

But there was a sequel which afterward threw 
another light upon this picture. Our Mohammedan 
passengers, from the proudest to the humblest, were 
faithful to the hour of prayer, if not to all the forms, 
and, turning their faces toward what they supposed to 
be the direction of Mecca, they very seldom permitted 
any thing to interrupt the indistinct mutterings of their 
devotions. 1 

In the view offered we have a combination of the 
Mohammedan postures. They seem to have passed un- 
changed through more than one thousand years ; and to 
this day they are the same in Arabia as when they followed 
the Arabs issuing from Medina, under the wild impulse 
of Islamism, to wrest Palestine from the possession 
of the Greek Christians. I have often had occasion to 
notice the Turkish automaton go through his postures 
and his sentences, which form the devotion of daylight, 
sunrise, noon, sunset, and twilight, and which, though 
externally "done up" after the direction of rule, are 
evidently as exact, as heartless, as obstinately con- 
temptuous of all around him, as though he were an 
image wound up and set a-going for the amusement of 
spectators and "dogs." We present in the view a 
scene from actual life, as it frequently appears to the 
traveller upon the Mediterranean. The forms are 
essentially the same with all Mohammedans, on sea 
and on land, in the mosque and in the field. If altered 

According to the Koran, "Pronounce not thy prayer aloud, neither 
pronounce it with too low a voice, but follow a middle way between these. " 
— Chap. 17. 



MOHAMMEDAN INDIFFERENCE. 



33 



at all, they are annually corrected in the pilgrimage to 
Mecca, where all dissimilarities are soon detected, per- 
mitting nothing materially wrong to exist for any length 
of time. One of the worshippers, with his head on the 
deck, holds in his hand a string of beads, professedly 
used for the purpose of enumerating the titles of 
Allah, as good, holy, just, true, Creator, Enlivener, &c. 
&c, some rehearsing as many as one hundred titles, 
many of which are exceedingly simple and absurd ; but 
the most usual object of the beads is simply that of orna- 
ment, or that something may be had upon which to exer- 
cise the finger-ends during the sedentary idleness of a 
Turkish life. A Christian shrinks from making public 
the external form of his private moments of devotion ; 
and often the heartless worship of a Mohammedan is 
placarded before Christian readers as an evidence of the 
moral courage of a heathen, and paraded for their benefit 
and pattern. There is thought to be an apparent 
reproof in the fact that we see nowhere among the 
Mohammedans the same timidity in religious profes- 
sion which we find among believers of a Christian's 
hope and faith. Every Mohammedan, whether on 
land or water, stops his tale or work at the cry of the 
muezzin, recites his prayer, makes his bow or posture, 
then resumes his broken thread and finishes his fun or 
fancy. If on water, he drops his oar, lets the wind 
and tide frolic with the boat till his prayer is over, and 
then resumes his oar and brings the boat to its course, 
On ship-deck, with his little mat, if not too sea-sick, he 
turns his face somewhere toward Mecca, prays, according 

3 



34 



TURKISH CONTEMPT. 



to the Koran, "standing, bowing, kneeling," with as 
little regard to him who laughs or looks as though 
every biped was a quadruped and " Mohammed alone 
were great." 1 As soon would I commend the stupid wag 
of a dog's gratitude to an intelligent man as a pattern 
of ethics as to present a Mohammedan's arrogance to a 
Christian as a pattern of moral courage. What there is of 
moral courage is due to nothing but the most determined 
ignorance compounded with the most abject contempt of 
the " infidel dogs," whom he considers as laying claims 
to the same respect from a Mohammedan which the para- 
site might claim from the dog on whom he lives. The 
minister from the Spanish court formerly communicated 
to the secretary of the Sublime Porte the news of the 
marriage of his sovereign's daughter, which at home 
was celebrated with great joy, and which the Spanish 
ambassador at the Porte thought would be a subject of 
congratulation from the " Sublime Porte" to the king. 
The reply was characteristic: — "What cares my master 
if one hog marries another ?" This is the moral shadow 
which throws itself across the land of promise. No one 
understands the history of the land who knows not the 
haughty spirit of Mohammedanism, with its hereditary 
and natural contempt for every person not of its faith, 



1 The precise form is not binding, prayer being permitted in various 
positions. Al Beidavri, an authoritative commentator on the Koran, 
mentions a saying of Mahomet to one Imran ibn Hosein, to this purpose: 
— "Pray standing, if thou art able; if not, sitting ; and, if thou canst not 
sit up, then as thou liest along." This is nothing more than a reiteration 
of that part in the 3d chapter of the Koran, " Remember God standing and 
sitting and lying" — Koran, ch. iii. p. 82. 



USES OF QUARANTINE. 



35 



— a contempt which is encouraged by its law. 1 But 
the detention in the quarantine will afford time for 
further study of the Turkish character. 

A very fat and timid Italian priest made his appear- 
ance on deck soon after casting anchor, and was the 
object of considerable merriment among the sailors and 
a few others for his fearfulness and clumsiness, which 
did not leave him until ashore. After anchoring and 
rolling lazily upon the waves for an hour and a half, a 
flat-boat with a few half-clad Arabs came aside, and we 
understood that we were to leave for the quarantine- 
grounds, about a mile off, where we were to remain five 
days under close confinement, — nominally to prevent 
the introduction of disease into Syria, but really for the 
sin of coming from Alexandria. The Pasha of Egypt, 
still cherishing his differences with the Sultan under 
whose government Syria has been since 1840, takes all 
methods of preventing Turkish visits to Egypt; and the 
authorities under the Sultan quietly resent the insult 
by carrying their enmity into the quarantine-grounds. 
The state of health in Egypt at this time was better 
than that in Syria, and especially at J erusalem ; 
yet the quarantine was rigidly enforced. The first 
boat left for the shore without us, and the passengers 
received a drenching in the rain. At the next arrival 
we entered the boat with our baggage and a promiscuous 



1 " Attack the idolaters in all the months." — Koran, eh. 9. "God hath 
indeed promised everyone Paradise; but God hath preferred those tvIio 
fight for the faith ... by degrees of honor conferred on them from him." — 
Ch. 4. 



36 



FIRST TRAVELLING-EXPERIENCE. 



pile of trunks and boxes, into the midst of which our 
fat priest was accidentally tumbled in attempting care- 
fully to descend the side of the vessel. Amid the yelling 
of the Arabs, the wind and spray, the laughter of many, 
and the crying and crossing of our timid priest, whose 
dignity had received such a fall, we were towed, by a 
boat ahead of us, through the boisterous surf toward 
the shore. 

Natives of Syria generally, when under the excite- 
ment of anger, distress, or vexation, seldom exercise 
their resentment on the offending party, but upon 
themselves. Here we noticed the first instance of this 
peculiarity; for when the rope which connected us 
with the rowed boat, through its rottenness and the 
clumsy management of the rowers, was broken, and we 
were in danger of being dashed against the two rocks, 
(represented in the view of Beirut,) the Arab leader 
immediately commenced inflicting injuries upon himself, 
either by striking his breast or by beating the boat with 
his hands, and at the same time screaming at the crew 
with a violence proportionate to his idea of the danger. 
And now, amid the rain and the surge and the screech- 
ing of these pilots, we were aground, at the distance of 
about thirty feet from a muddy shore, to experience our 
first travel, and that on the shoulders of the Arabs ; and 
from this ludicrous position we were almost pitched 
headlong with our baggage upon the mud. 

Having gained the slippery heights of the bank, we 
were released from the quarrelling company by paying 
about eighteen piastres (seventy-five cents) a-piece, for 



TURKISH CRUELTY. 



37 




LANDING-SCENE. 



their services from the steamboat : then, heavy with 
mud and rain, we turned to search for our desolate 
quarters in the quarantine-grounds. The novelty of 
the scene, and unusually good health, prevented us from 
experiencing the vexation which seemed to trouble 
many and to develop very unhappily the characters of 
several of our company. The irritation and vexation 
of the Turkish effendi, referred to before, knew no 
bounds ; and, on looking back, we saw the fellow just 
in the act of throwing the boy, who had vexed him, into 



38 



QUARANTINE COMFORTS. 



a ravine by the roadside. This act he executed with 
exceeding maliciousness, and there left him. The 
boy was not brought up to the houses ; and, as I never 
saw him after, though I inquired, I suppose he died 
and was privately buried in the place, as no one was 
willing to come in contact with the rage of an armed 
Turkish master. Though it was seven o'clock in the 
morning when we cast anchor, it was now mid-day, and 
we were wet and hungry; and, being pointed to a square 
two-story house amid other buildings, we found our 
lodgings were little better than "on the cold ground." 
The building was in the utmost state of neglect, with 
plaster-and-stone floors, and without sashes to the win- 
dows; stone steps ascended to forlorn and dilapidated 
upper rooms, where every thing was wet, leaking, dirty, 
and cheerless, without even a fireplace or an article of 
furniture. We selected a room having a platform at one 
end, elevated three feet, and capable of seating, after 
the Oriental method, some seven or eight persons. My 
friend and myself were to occupy this room ; and, while 
meditating on the extremely comfortless character of 
the scene, we were suddenly accosted, in a series of 
broken-English words, by one of the runners of the city 
houses, who, in a most provokingly-ludicrous manner, 
informed us that we were most delightfully situated, 
and congratulated us on our choice of apartments. The 
matter was beyond our control; and, submitting, we 
sent into town for a cook and all that should be neces- 
sary for comfort, the cook to be put into quarantine with 
us, and we to pay forty piastres a day, being a little 



OUR COOK AND KITCHEN. 



39 



more than one dollar and sixty cents. 1 On the arrival 
of our cook, whom we shall hereafter refer to by his 
name, " Nicolo," we found him ignorant of any lan- 
guage save Arabic and Italian. We were desperately 
hungry, and Nicolo seemed as desperately determined 
that we should continue so, and, in execution of his 
intent, consumed much time "fixing" the "patent bed- 
steads," which became loose as soon as they were 
" fixed." After various delays, a room used for a 
kitchen was furnished, and preparations for dinner 
commenced. Our kitchen was primitive in other re- 
spects than that of simplicity. A little stone room, one 
door, one window, and one little hole in the mortar of the 
stone floor to let out such water as would not stay in, 
— this was all that was unfurnished in our kitchen, the 
furniture consisting only of a little sheet-iron box of 
coals on four wires or rods. Upon this little con- 
trivance our cook with considerable adroitness com- 
pleted a variety of preparations which could not have 
been surpassed upon any of the modern and more exten- 
sive cooking-apparatus. 

From the window we obtained our first quiet and 
magnificent view of the Mediterranean and the grandeur 
of the long range of Lebanon, on the northeast, with 
the snow-covered peak lying back of all, — the summit 
of the " Jebel Sunnim," among the highest points, if 
not the highest point, of the Lebanon range, which is 



1 A piastre by U. S. Mint regulations of 1857 is rated at four cents, four 
mills. 



40 



LEBANON 



BY MOONLIGHT. 



generally considered as about nine thousand feet above 
the sea. There is nothing here deserving the name of 
a harbor; and the waves, dashing fiercely, leap high up 
the bank, nearly beneath our window. 

It was six o'clock before dinner was announced, and 
then, nearly exhausted in our patience and hope, we 
sat down to a meal which, even without our vigorous 
appetites, would have caused surprise from its variety 
and excellence. Our helplessness at night was thrust 
suddenly upon us; for, wishing to take advantage of a 
view under a full moon, and descending for this purpose, 
we found that we were prisoners, the door being locked 
with a padlock. Our effort being defeated in that 
direction, we returned, and, putting a ladder up to the 
cupola-window, crept out upon the house-top, where 
the view was, for its extent and sublimity, superior to 
any thing we had previously enjoyed. The billows 
almost at our feet threw their white foam high up 
into the moonlight, and an occasional silence made 
more solemn the distant moaning of the waves as 
they rolled in upon those lonely shores of the north, 
shadowed by the huge walls of the gray mountains, 
under whose cliffs a line of merchant-ships sought the 
mouth of the little river as a harbor against the winds. 
Far to the northeast the snow-ridge of Sunnim, made 
larger by our elevation, appeared like an island ex- 
ceedingly bright amid the dark and countless peaks 
and ridges around. Behind us lay the crouching, flat- 
top houses of Beirut, with a few elevated buildings and 
some distant villas, and the whole beneath the light 



MEMORIES OF 



THE PAST. 



41 



of a full and cloudless moon, from almost every direc- 
tion darting a mysterious power to quicken into life 
some recollection that up to this time had always been 
like 

" after-tones of some old tower-bell 
Tolling departed memories," 

but now merged into a 

" Career of recollections vivid as the dreams of midnight.'' 

From this point we determined on a morning view ; 
and, descending, we sought our room and the little 
frail iron-wire bedsteads, which refused to perform their 
office and made the presence of Nicolo necessary again. 
Our Jewish friend Zadoc begged permission to share 
our room, and, gaining our consent, he stretched his 
blanket in the corner, and after prayer, in which he 
appeared devout, lay down to sleep. Soon after we also 
had closed our first day in Syria. 




THE QUARANTINE-KITCHEN. 



42 



LEBANON BY SUNRISE. 



CHAPTEK II. 

PHCENICIA: ITS EARLY INFLUENCES. 

The time spent in quarantine is not of necessity lost 
time. Several of our fellow-prisoners were well acquainted 
with the country, and with peculiarities that were import- 
ant to the objects we had in view, and many suggestions 
were made of which we availed ourselves. Desirous 
of obtaining all the advantage of the scenery which the 
lights and shades of early morning might develop, 
we ascended before sunrise to our evening's position. 
Towering clouds crimsoned with the first rays of the 
sun, the strange light thrown upon the sea, the white 
ridges of Lebanon tinged pink by the early light, the 
dashing waves, and the generally attractive scenery 
around Beirut, — all in themselves were objects of un- 
usual admiration; and, with the charms of historic 
association added, no desire was left us for a better 
light, nor for a more favorable position. The prominent 
snow-top of Jebel Sunnim 1 bears east, and must be 
nearly twenty miles distant, being a ridge of about 



1 The accurate bearing, which I took afterward from the piazza of our 
hotel, (Belle Vue,) was N. 84° 15 / E., this being the apparent centre of the 
top ridge, — magnetic meridian variation being about 8°. 



HERO-WORSHIP. 



43 



three and a half miles in length. Several miles to the 
north of this peak are furrowed mountains, on which 
the first sources of the Nahr Ibrahim — the classic 
Adonis — may be traced, running to the sea, fifteen 
miles westerly, in some parts through a brown soil, 
with which in spring-time it is profusely tinged before 
it empties into the Mediterranean. 1 Here, then, is the 
occasion for the name and for the ancient celebrations 
connected with that name. 

It brings up the seed-grain from which sprang so much 
trouble to the Israelites, to which reference is made in 
various parts of Scripture. A knowledge of its history 
adds greatly to an appreciation of the difficulties under 
which Moses labored in attempting to suppress a sin- 
gular idolatry, against which various prophecies were 
uttered. It is known that the ancients were prone 
to make gods of their benefactors, and of men of 
eminence and success, after their death. Belus, being 
a great hunter of wild beasts and successful in defend- 
ing the land against them, finally turned his arms 
against men; and Diodorus tells us he was the first 
inventor of arms and military tactics. He is the 
Nimrod of Scripture, the "mighty hunter before the 
Lord," 2 — a term signifying his power and success. 3 

Hence, being the founder of Babylon, 4 from a famous 



1 Hence the ancient notion expressed by Lucian and others, that the 
river at certain times presented the color of blood. 
2 Gen. x. 9. 

3 Cat. of Berosus, by Alex. Polyhistor. Chron. Antiq. Jackson, vol. i. p. 
233. London, 1752. 

4 Gen. x. 10. 



44 ORIGIN OF THE FESTIVALS OF ADONIA. 



prince he became the great divinity of the Chaldeans 
and Assyrians, and was worshipped at Babylon, and 
also at Tadmor and Baalbec, as the symbol of the sun, — 
which last, though in after-times called by the Greeks 
Heliopolis, (city of the sun.) appears to have signified 
more truly " The Lord the Sun," or the " Sun-God." 

And to show how infectious idolatry was, it may be 
said that the variations Bel, Bal, and Baal, forming 
parts of various proper names, can all be traced to the 
influence of the splendid idolatry of Babylon, that most 
idolatrous city of the world, which sent out a moral 
authority equal to its grandeur and power amid the 
nations. Thus, Belus was worshipped among the 
Assyrians as Baal Gad, among the Syrians as Baal 
Pheor, and among the Moabites as Baal Phegor; that 
is, as the Baal worshipped on Mount Phegor, as Theo- 
doret says, and probably thus may have been formed 
the name Baalbec. 

Servius 1 says that the Carthaginians called him Bel 
or Bal, and that the worship of Baal must have been 
introduced from Carthage into Phoenicia by the colony 
of Dido. Hence we may trace the terminating syl- 
lables of Asdrubal, Hannibal, &c, signifying great men 
or lords 2 , several of which names have descended to our 
own times. 

With the same spirit originated the deification of 

1 Servius Honoratus Maurus, a learned grammarian, about a.d. 400. 
His commentaries on Virgil contain many valuable notes on the geography 
and arts of antiquity. (See edition of Virgil by Burmann, Amsterdam. 1700, 
4 vols. 4to.) 

2 See Mayo's Mythology, vol. ii. p. 101. 



A D N I S. 



45 



Adonis, who from various accounts seems to have been 
the much-loved son of a Tyrian princess, Astarte, her- 
self greatly beloved for her beneficence. Adonis, fond of 
hunting, found amid these Lebanon forests the hunt- 
ing-grounds where, wounded by a wild boar, he was 
supposed to have died; and the news, suddenly borne 
to his mother, caused such grief on her part as to 
occasion the sympathy of the whole realm; but his 
wounds, washed in the river near at hand, (the 
Adonis,) caused the red color which it assumes at 
periods; and Adonis, attended by the physician Coey- 
tus, recovered. Then the mourning was followed by 
rejoicing and by the institution of annual celebrations 
called Adonea. On the death of Astarte both Adonis 
and Astarte were deified. 

Instead of Adonis and Astarte being the same as 
Osiris and Isis of Egypt, the most probable account 
shows that they were distinct personages; and the 
ceremonies of the former were somewhat accommodated 
to the celebrations in Egypt of Osiris and Isis, where 
the festival had some reference to the overflowing of 
the Nile and the consequent benefits. Nothing could 
have been more exciting and popular than the celebra- 
tion of this festival. Ladies at Syracuse — nearly 
one thousand miles off— are described 1 as embarking 
to attend the festival in honor of Adonis at Alex- 
andria. The magnificence of the preparation and the 
elegance and fashion attending the celebration were 
unequalled. Arsinoe, the wife of Ptolemy Phila- 

1 B}- Theocritus. 



46 



BEAUTY OF THE FEASTS. 



delphus, (b.c. 285,) who was even worshipped after 
death under the euphonious title of "Venus Zephyr- 
ites," bore the statue of Adonis in the procession, and 
was accompanied by the most accomplished and most 
distinguished ladies of Alexandria. All the beauty 
that flowers and richly-wrought baskets of cakes, 
with costly perfumes and every variety of fruit, could 
add of ornament, was in the offerings at these proces- 
sions. The whole was followed by ladies bearing rich 
carpets, on which were two beds, embroidered with 
silver and gold, — one for Venus (the name of the 
deified Astarte) and the other for Adonis. 1 

These offerings were typical of congratulations to 
Astarte by a people rejoicing on the recovery of Adonis; 
and the festivals were celebrated only by females. 
From Syria the same excitements were introduced into 
Persia, Cyprus, and Greece, and in Athens they were 
accompanied by a great degree of magnificence. 2 

1 Cicero suras up those called by the name Venus in four distinct per- 
sons. First, the daughter of Coelus and Dies, (Heaven and Light;) second, 
sprung from the froth of the sea, and the mother of Cupid ; third, daughter 
of Jupiter and Dione, and wife of Vulcan ; and fourth, the daughter of Tyrus 
and Syria, and called Astarte, wife of Adonis, also her son. Though these are 
confounded by the poets, and evidently in some confusion in Lempriere's 
Classical Dictionary, yet it appears from various sources that the prose of 
Cicero is the accepted truth, and that Astarte after death was deified under 
the title of Venus, and was not the same as the goddess of beauty and mo- 
ther of Cupid. — Cic. Nat. D., iii. 23, in Amsworth's Thesauri Lingvce Lat., 
4th, vol ii. in loco, London, 1751. 

2 This Adonis is identified by Jerome and others as the Tammuz referred 
to by Ezekiel, viii. 14: — " There sat women weeping for Tammuz," which 
is seen to have been the form of the worship of Adonis before he was repre- 
sented as recovered from his wound, and as described above. This impres- 
sion is adopted by Milton in his beautiful lines in Paradise Lost, bk. i. 447. 
Maimonides, as we shall show hereafter, suggests another Thammuz. 



ASHTEROTH. 



47 



An early scriptural reference to Astarte is interest- 
ing, reaching back as far as 1913 B.C. In Genesis xiv. 
5 we have a notice of a place called Ashteroth Kar- 
naim, — a place named after the idol worshipped there. 1 
This word Karnaim signifies horns, 2 and by substitution 
the reading will be " Ashteroth with horns." Now, this 
Ashteroth was the same as Astarte of the Greeks; and 
thus, in translating the Hebrew of the Old Testament 
into Greek, Astarte was put for Ashteroth. 3 As- 
tarte " placed upon her own head the head of a bull as 
the sign of royalty." 4 She represented the moon, as 
Adonis did the sun ; and the horns which appear on 
her head are the horns of a new moon, or a crescent, 
with the two points uppermost, as the poets were in 
the habit of styling the moon, " the bull-horned moon." 5 

1 Generally supposed to be the same as Tell (hill) Ashtereh, about ten 
miles east of the Lake of Tiberias. 

2 D^1p Karnaim, dual form, from Keren, a horn. In Joshua xiii. 
31, the same place is mentioned without mentioning " horns." 

3 The Septuagint in the passage 1 Kings xi. 5 has ry Aarapr-tj. And so, 
in Judges ii. 13, for, "they served Baal and Ashteroth," it is in the Sep- 
tuagint, " they served Baal and rate AarapTaic." So, in 1 Sam. xxxi. 10, the 
nilHu*]/ fV3> "house of Ashteroth," is translated by "the temple of 
Astarte." The Vulgate has also Astarten in 1 Kings xi. 5, 33, and 2 Kings 
xxiii. 13. So it appears, from these authorities and others, that Ashteroth 
was the Astarte of the Greeks and Romans; and Lucian, who was himself a 
Syrian, says that " in Phoenicia there was a great temple belonging to the 
Sidonians, which they themselves say was Astarte's." " Now," adds he, "I 
think Astarte was the moon." 

* Sanchoniathon, as cited by Parkhurst under Ashteroth, Heb. Lex. 
Sanchoniathon was a native and priost of Berytus, now Beirut, lived 
before the war of Troy, and was a man of learning and great experience. 
Said to have gained much from Thautus, inventor of letters. — Mayo's 
Mythology, vol. i. p. 8. 

5 Orpheus, in his Hymn to the Moon, line 2, says, ravpoKEpug ij-wtj. — 
Parkhursfs Hebrew Lexicon, (as above.) 



48 



FIRST TEMPLES. 



So that the crescent-crowned Astarte was an object of 
worship as far back as the time of Abraham. 1 

Mr. Porter, who visited the Lebanon in 1853, states 
that at a place thirty miles east of the Lake of Tiberias, 
called Kunawat, he discovered among the ruins of an 
old theatre and other buildings of an early age, and 
opposite a temple, a sculptured head in relief, three 
feet in breadth, with a crescent and rays, which he 
supposed to be that of Ashteroth ; and though, from the 
Corinthian style spoken of, it could not be referred to 
the times of the Old Testament Ashteroth, it nevertheless 
signified a perpetuation of the same idolatry which also 
constituted the worship of the Syrians and Arabs be- 
fore the time of Mahomet. 2 

Another item of interest is that the dark and lonely 
forests, like those of Lebanon, were the first temples 
of the gods, being used for w r orship in times antecedent 
to the building of temples. Phoenicia and Egypt com- 
menced idolatry soon after the Flood, 3 — before men had 
the knowledge to erect even comfortable cabins. 4 And 



1 Milton beautifully refers to these facts in Paradise Lost, bk. i. 439. 

2 Porter's Five Years in Damascus. Herod., Clio 131, Thalia 8, quoted 
vol. ii. 105. 

3 Eusebius, who had examined the rise of idolatry with care, has this 
opinion, as also Lactantius, who ascribes it to Canaan, and Cassian, 
who thinks Ham was the origin. Vossius has no doubt that idolatry 
had its rise in the family of Ham, and thus came into Egypt; and this 
author asserts that his opinion is that of all the ancients. See IVIayo's 
Mythology, vol. i. p. 72. 

4 The origin of the word "temple" (from templando, i.e. contemplando,) 
signifies some retirement for meditation, and was applied to places marked 
out by the augur's lituus, or staff, where the auguries should be observed, 
and was either a spot of ground enclosed with palisadoes or nets, or a 



ORIGIN OF THE ASYLUM. 



49 



yet, from the earliest times in which we perceive any 
definite form in the worship of God, the .sense of God's 
superiority is shadowed forth in the extraordinary efforts 
on the part of the nations worshipping God to associate 
with that worship grandeur ; and, when this was not 
possible, then mystery took the place of grandeur; and, 
as God was both glorious and mysterious, grandeur 
and mystery combined were the two principal features 
of idolatry. The forests and dark ravines, the caves 
of Mount Lebanon, and its gigantic cedars and fir- 
trees, under the shadows of some of which, still lingering 
among the mountains, seven hundred persons might 
stand at noonday, seemed to welcome just such an idola- 
try as that of the nation who worshipped Astarte, the 
symbol of the moon, and Adonis her son. 

"Where the bare columns of those lofty firs, 
Supporting gracefully a massive dome 
Of sombre foliage, seem to imitate 
A Grecian temple rising from the deep." 1 

Hence the first idolatries after the Flood found their 
origin in the singular recesses of these mountains. Here 
early Phoenicians, not sufficiently versed in architecture 
to erect marble temples, were pleased to dedicate groves, 
where in mid-day the darkness and the solemn whis- 
perings of fores t-monarchs, with the occasional dirge 
of the lonely waves dying along the shore of the sea, 
which can be seen from numberless ridges, all combined 
to make the worship of Astarte on these mountains most 

quarter of the heavens upon which the meditations should be made. — 
Ainsworth's Thesaurus, in loco. 
1 Excursion IX. 

4 



50 



IDOLATRIES OF LEBANON. 



solemn and mystic. In after-times were built chapels 
and temples, but around these temples were sacred 
groves consecrated to the god of the temple, and 
forming asylums (asyla) or sanctuaries for criminals 
who fled there for refuge. 1 It was for this reason, and 
that the temples and the altars might be more easily 
found, — though originally the hosts of heaven, having 
been the first objects of worship, required an elevation, — 
that these groves were built on high places, on hill-tops 
and mountains, until it became a custom to erect 
temples and, as far as possible, plant groves sacred to 
the deities on elevations, and a custom in some degree 
encouraged by the rough and hilly character of the 
country, if the worshippers intended that the temple 
should be seen at any distance. What a world of 
idolatry has caught its spirit and forms from the 
examples given amid these gray-headed mountains of 
Lebanon ! The islands of the sea, near and far off, 
countries south and north and to the distant West, 

1 Hence the origin of the word "asylum" from a, negative, and cvlov, 
" violation," — that is, inviolate. Possibly, before the Greeks, its derivation 
might have been from the Hebrew and Phoenician ashel, which 

signified a grove, — more particularly, perhaps, the oak, which was held 
sacred, and formed those sacred groves where the innocent offender (and 
among the pagans even the guilty) was considered safe, not only from 
punishment for capital crime, but even from debt. The Greek, in pro- 
nouncing the Hebrew word, would say, "He has fled to the asilim," which 
would be the Greek pronunciation of the Hebrew plural for " the oaks," 
though the Hebrew is ashilim, — -just as Saul's name in Hebrew was Shaul, 
pronounced Saul, and the Hebrew Joshua, in Greek, Jesua, (hence Jesus,) 
meaning the help of Jehovah, or salvation, and being of Hebrew origin. In 
like manner ashilim, the original word, is supposed to have been asilim. So 
thinks Parkhurst. (Lex. in loco) ; but this may be considered uncertain, 
the Greek derivation only being unquestionable. 



POTENTIAL IDOLATRY OF THE PHOENICIANS. 51 



were the recipients of idolatrous customs and moral 
poisons fomented in the dark forests and caves of these 
grand old mountains. Even the far-famed oracles of 
Dodona in Greece, and of Jupiter Ammon in Libya of 
Northern Africa, and of other nations who, in later times, 
in their pride thought themselves so much superior to 
the rest of the world, owed their origin to Phoenician 
merchants, who introduced priestesses to those nations. 1 
There is no geometry that can calculate the mass of moral 
power alone which has rolled off from these mountain-tops 
upon the nations of the earth from the time the first wreath 
of incense ascended from these groves and mingled with 
the winds of heaven, disseminating influences which may 
be lingering amid some nations at the present moment. 

One of the most conclusive evidences of the intel- 
lectual or literary ability of the Phoenicians may be 
seen in the fact that some of the traces of their early 
letters yet remain in several modern alphabets, 
having escaped through no less than eight generations 
of language and survived so many centuries. Distinct 
forms appear also in our own letters which are most 
satisfactorily traced to the very nation that dwelt in 
these mountains before the entrance of the Israelites, 
who also obtained their written alphabet from the 
Phoenicians. 2 Herein may be seen the potency of that 

1 Herodotus says, " Phoenician merchants formerly carried off two priest- 
esses of Thebes. She who was sold into Greece took up her residence in 
the forest of Dodona, where the Greeks came to gather acorns, their ancient 
food ; and there she erected a small chapel at the foot of an oak, in honor 
of Jupiter." Herodotus also speaks of equal antiquity for the other oracle. 
— Mayo's Mythology, vol. i. p. 212. 

2 See Appendix No. I. 



52 



SCULPTURES OF THE LYCUS. 



new idolatry which the Israelites, having left the 
burdens of Egypt, were to meet in their new land. 
Nothing can bring more forcibly before us the necessity 
of the increased anxiety on the part of Moses to guard 
against this wily and accomplished nation, whose 
customs had already spread over the whole country, 
even among the Moabites and Midianites on the east 
coast of the Dead Sea, and whose idolatrous snares 
brought Israel into sin and trouble, despite all the 
precautions of Moses, when they had been in the land 
but a few months. The contour of the mountain ridges 
and tops as presented in the view of Beirut are faithful 
to nature, and, as seen from the position in the bay, 
cannot be far from exactness, as in no instance was a 
peak admitted into the sketch for effect or for any other 
reason than that of actual position. About six miles 
northeast of Beirut is the mouth of the river Ltcus, the 
present Nahr el Kelb, or " river of the dog," called so 
from the presence of a large stone base on the rocky 
"ras" above that part of the road near the mouth of the 
river, which was supposed to have been the pedestal for 
a gigantic sculpture of a dog, the supposed remains of 
which sculpture in the sea were pointed out to a travel- 
ler in 1839 and M. de Saulcy, in 1851, speaks of it as 
resembling a wolf or dog. 2 At this point, a short distance 
above the sea-level and near the mouth of the river, on 
its southern bank, are the celebrated bas-relief figures, of 

1 Cairo, Petra, and Damascus, 1839, p. 251. J. G. Kinnear. London, 
J. Murray. 

2 Vol. ii. p. 331, American edition. 



ARROW-HEADED LETTEES. 



53 



life-size, carved in the rock, three of which are alike, 
with Assyrian form and dress, and inscribed with the 
arrow-headed letters. 1 It seems, from Maundreli's 
account, who examined the figures in 169 7. 2 and also 
certain inscriptions below them, that the latter have 
been losing their distinctness. After a Latin inscription 
of the road, to Antonine, cut in the rock, Maundrell 
copies another. — a salutatory to Antonine, with a wish 
of long life and rule to him, evidently for improving 
and grading the lower road. This inscription Dr. 



1 The nations between the Euphrates and the Desert of Persia, among 
the first appearing in history, were the originators of the " arroic-heacled 
letters" and system of -writing, called so because composed of arrow-headed 
figures together with angles. There are now known to be five species: — 
1. The Babylonian, found on the bricks and cylinders of Babylon. 2. The 
Assyrian, found on the right bank of the Upper Euphrates, at Nineveh, at 
Wan, and the Median frontiers. Of the remaining three, found only on 
the monuments of the Archaemenian kings of Persia, one is the old Persian, 
and the others of Media and Susiana, though there is much doubt in 
relation to the latter. ■•'When and where this system of writing took its 
origin is also a matter of uncertainty. To me it seems most probable that 
Babylon was its cradle, whence it spread into two branches eastward to 
Susiana and northward to the Assyrian Empire, from whence it passed to 
Media, and lastly to the ancient Persians, where it was ultimately improved 
and brought to its greatest perfection. The three Archasrnenian species 
became extinct with the last kings of the dynasty, the two others perhaps 
earlier, when the countries to which they belonged fell a prey to their 
more powerful neighbors. " Grotefend, Burnouf, Lassen, Kawlinson, and 
Westergaard are the Oriental scholars who have deciphered thus far these 
characters : and from Westergaard the above information is gathered. — 
On the Deciphering of the second Archaemenian or Median species of Arrow- 
headed Characters, by JS r . L. Westergaard, in the Mtmoires de la Societe* 
Boy ale des Antiq. du Xord, 1844. pp. 271-283. Also Dr. Wilson's Bible 
Lands, vol. ii., who thinks, with Westergaard's approval, that these Xahr 
el Kelb letters are neither Persian nor Median, but the Assyrian form. — 
Vol. ii. pp. 408-11. 

2 P. 97 of Maundrell's Travels during Easter, 1697. Published at Oxford, 
1703. 



54 



ASSYRIAN SCULPTURES. 



Wilson spoke of as very indistinct in June 16, 1843, 
and copied Maundreil's copy instead of the rock-carved 
original. 1 He also states that an Arabic inscription at 
the foot of the bridge crossing the Lycus just above, 
and which attributed its erection to the Emir Fakhr ed 
Din, is no longer legible, though plain in Maundreil's 
time. Travellers may well bear in mind that at certain 
times of the day, and with certain lights, inscriptions 
are developed with a very unusual distinctness which 
are utterly illegible at other times. An evening sun 
and very oblique rays have enabled me to decipher 
carvings and letters with ease, which in the morning 
and with direct rays we were all unable to read. In 
reference to the above inscriptions, a cast was taken by 
Mr. Bonomi and deposited in the British Museum, on 
which Mr. Layard read the name of the Koujunjik 
king, or one of the same dynasty as at Nineveh ; and it 
seems that these stray figures are Assyrian. 2 Besides 
the Assyrian monuments of which Dr. Stuart, in 1856, 
saw seven, there are two with symbols that seem 
Egyptian, of which M. de Saulcy (vol. ii. p. 504) very 
oracularly declares that " he positively and openly pro- 
nounces these a mere invention," without any further 
remarks. If M. de Saulcy refers to some publications 

1 Wilson's Bible Lands, vol. ii. p. 406. 

2 "I discovered the name of the Koujunjik king on the rock-tablet at 
the mouth of the Nahr el Kelb, (the Lycus,) near Beirut, of which a cast 
taken by Mr. Bonomi is in the British Museum. It is curious that in a 
bas-relief, found at Khorsabad, a niche, containing a figure precisely similar 
to that at the Nahr el Kelb, was represented on the walls of a castle." — 
Layard, p. 304, two vols, in one; American edition. 



NATURAL BRIDGE. 



55 



of Egyptian figures in France, asserted to be found here, 
—and which are not, — then his simple testimony and 
assertion are sufficient ; but if reference is made to what 
actually exists, it will cost him immense labor to dis- 
prove the conclusions of some oracles who have pre- 
ceded him and who have adduced some proof that there 
are two bearing evidence of genuine Egyptian form and 
origin. 

Up this river Lycus, about fourteen miles from its 
mouth, is a natural rock-bridge. Dr. Wilson, from 
his account, appears to have been deceived by his 
own mistrust in his Arabs, as he gave up the chase 
"from bank to brae," after only two hours, supposing 
that the natives confounded it with what are called the 
caves of the river. 1 I did not visit the spot, though 
the ridge under which it runs was pointed out to me 
as just west of Jebel Sunnim, — three miles. About eight 
miles from the mouth of the Lycus the Wady Bis- 
kinta enters it upon the right, leaving the Wady Salib, 
which is only a continuation of the valley of the Lycus 
or Kelb River, and which continues to a point about 
seven miles farther up. At that point is the natural 
bridge, called by the natives Jisr el Hajr, (bridge of 
stone.) It seems to be a formation very similar to the 
Natural Bridge of Virginia; 2 and the oblique arch, 

l Tol. ii. p. 413. 

2 Except that the bridge in Virginia is longer, being 215 feet 6 inches 
from the stream to the upper surface of the bridge, the average width 81 
feet, length, 93, and thickness, 55. — Howe's History of Virginia, Charleston, 
1846. A public road passes over it, which in my first visit I used without 
being aware that I was riding over the bridge, such is the height of trees 



56 



CAVERXS. 



spanning over one hundred and fifty feet, at an ele- 
vation of nearly one hundred; according to Mr. Porter, 
who visited it in 1853, and found, in July, a stream 
from the fountain of Neba el Leben passing under and 
forming with the fountain of Xeba el Asil. twentv-five 
minutes north, the highest sources of the Nahr el Kelb. 1 
The " caves of the river Kelb" are strange openings in 
the mountain-side, several miles up the valley from the 
mouth of the river. The best description of these caves 
is by Rev. Wm. Thompson, who visited them about 
1840. 2 A large portion of the river rushes out of the 
first cave; but, having no boat. Mr. T. passed on to the 
second, which, through a mouth of about eighteen feet 
square, permits a passage of eighty paces under the 
mountain, and then descends into an abyss, near which 
the ground sounds hollow under the tread. About forty 
rods farther up the valley is the third cave, with a small 
and concealed entrance, opening into a large room con- 
taining stalactites of singular variety and beauty, some 
fluted like Corinthian columns. Here is a basin of 
water, calm, and entering into the mountain for a 
distance, which seems to be great, as the report of a 
gun sounds long and loud. There are no doubt many 
caverns in these mountains which will be found to 
surpass, in depth, variety, and stalactite beauty, any 



and bushes growing on the top. The limestone is darker and more com- 
pact than that of the Lebanon bridge. The latter appears more like a 
colossal artificial work, from the absence of trees and undergrowth. 

1 Porter's Five Years in Damascus, vol. ii. p. 293. 

-Missionary Herald, January. 1841, p. 81. 



LITTLE INCIDENTS. 



57 



hitherto discovered in this region, the limestone rock 
being exceedingly favorable to such formations. 

After a few hours of a clear air and but few clouds, we 
have to-day been suddenly visited by rain and wind ; and 
in a short time the wind has increased to a gale, hurling 
up clouds of immense form and height, rolling over one 
another in such fearful grandeur and darkness that one 
might suppose they were coming to battle with the huge 
sides of Lebanon itself. 

My excellent friend D. is to be accommodated with 
a more permanent bedstead than that he stood in fear of 
last night. Nicolo has brought in two or three iron 
trestles, and intends that this preparation shall last for 
the term of quarantine; and my friend, to use a con- 
venient word, is "fixed." I am persuaded that not only 
much of interest in life and travel, but also of important 
truth, is lost by a neglect of little incidents which are 
either described with such an unnatural dignity that 
they are stuffed up into a shape past recognition, or else 
forced into such insignificance as to make them worthless 
to express the actual power which little events have over 
the feelings, impressions, and life in the Land. Probably 
no other land is the object of visit to such a variety of 
characters, classes, and minds as Palestine. Morally, 
socially, and intellectually, the contrasts are almost 
extreme,— men of every shade of religious faith 
and moral character, which, if graded in scientific 
terms, might be expressed by any degree between 40° 
below zero and 212° above, — from those whose moral 
coldness freezes all means of measurement, up to those 



58 



CONVERSATION ON ABSURDITIES. 



whose heat and zeal boil over at the expense of their 
good sense and even their growth in intelligent piety, 
burning up both altar and sacrifice. Only a few 
days before, I had become acquainted with a remark- 
ably intelligent young German. He was going to 
Palestine; and, reclining one moonlight night upon 
the steamer's deck, we conversed on philosophical 
points in which he was deeply interested, when sud- 
denly he inquired, "Do you believe in the absurdities 
of the New Testament ?" 

"Certainly not," I replied. " I believe in no absurdi- 
ties." 

" I hoped not, truly; for, if I thought you did, I should 
think less of you." 

"Well," I replied, "I suppose, then, you do not 
believe in the absurdity of a God ?" 

" I don't comprehend the term, unless you refer to 
an intelligent First Cause ; and then I see nothing 
objectionable in such a Deity." 

"Yes. Well, now, it appears to me an absurdity to 
believe in such a cause without corresponding effects. 
I might as well talk of a sun without sunshine. Where 
are the corresponding effects of your First Cause ?" 

"All around me," he replied. " Nature in its glories 
above and below are his highest effects." 

" Is this reasonable ? You tell me of your wonderful 
' First Cause,' and, when I ask you for the effects of so 
intelligent and stupendous a cause, you point me only 
to senseless matter for an adequate effect, the very best 
forms of which matter is galvanized for an existence of 



THE FIRST CAUSE. 



59 



a few years, and is then decomposed into its chemical ele- 
ments to create another form, — perhaps of a vegetable, 
perhaps of a brute. Now, it is to me absurd to believe 
in such a cause, if it can prove itself no farther. You 
might as well describe to me an intellectual giant, and 
prove his intellectuality by saying he makes beautiful 
pin-cushions and cracks nuts. The effects are not ade- 
quate to the cause in kind, to say nothing of amount." 

"They are," he replied, "when you take into account 
the intellectual beings he has begotten. That is suf- 
ficient, and meets your difficulty and proves my God 
on your own basis." 

" It proves his unworthiness of my love or even my 
respect. What ! has your God made me after his image 
and given me such capacity for ceaseless joy, — such 
intellectual excellencies, — imbued me with thirst for life 
and immortality, which these old Egyptian pyramids 
and ruins testify to as existing in our race from the very 
beginning, and then given me a life not so lasting as that 
of the senseless tree which waves for centuries over the 
grave of him who planted it, — given man a superiority 
as great as that of mind to matter, and associated with 
a necessary, uncontrollable, and inseparable desire for 
immortality, and then bestowed upon the veriest dirt 
under his feet an existence measured by geological cycles 
of centuries, while his image — his master-piece — perishes 
so soon, and is absorbed into the meanest part of his 
work as the Great First Cause !" 

" But," he answered, " if I should grant the immor- 
tality of the soul, what then ?" 



60 



DIFFICULTIES OF DEISM. 



" Why, then, if that First Cause shows his goodness 
or kindness in creation and design (as you are willing to 
admit) and if I am to be immortal, then I see nothing 
but reason and consistency in his revealing to me 
some knowledge of the spirit-land to which I expect 
to go. He has made my body comfortable, and I see 
nothing absurd in his rendering my spirit a favor too ; 
and hence, if the Koran is the revelation, or the 
Shastre, or the Talmud, let us have it; but, if the New 
Testament is the purest, I shall take it." 

"But you said you did not believe in the New 
Testament." 

" Not I. You asked me if I believed in the absurdi- 
ties of the New Testament ; and I have given you my 
reasons for believing that there are no absurdities 
therein ; while I do believe there are absurdities in 
Deism." 

"Well, I must believe in a First Cause; and your 
views are very strange to me." 

This was the spirit of all that passed, only lacking 
in the precise words, often themselves correctly remem- 
bered. This person was quite a philosopher, a gentle- 
man of high family, a correspondent of Humboldt, 
whose autograph he presented to me. And, with these 
views, he too was a pilgrim to the Holy Land! In 
after-days we met again. His notions had undergone a 
change. Said he, " I no longer think your sentiments 
strange. I covet them myself. I, too, would have 
just such a faith and hope." 

Our fat priest was a spirit of the opposite character, 



THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION. 61 



having reached the extreme of papal pietism. He could 
not rest without some exhibition of his missionary zeal : 
so to-day he has opened upon me by asking me whe- 
ther I believed that the Virgin Mary was born without 
sin. I replied that I had not read the doctrine in the 
Scriptures. 

"Yes; but it is reasonable; and the holy Catholic 
Church and the Fathers say so." 

"But the Scriptures say, 6 To the law and testi- 
mony.' " 

" True ; but Mary is our hope and life." 

" The Scriptures say of Jesus, 6 1 am the resur- 
rection and the life/ — not Mary." 

" Yes ; but Jesus is the resurrection and the life as 
the Head of the Church ; and St. Peter lawfully holds 
that headship ; and he has said of Mary as I teach." 

After some further conversation, he told me very 
decidedly that I was " in a bad case, as the Church 
had anathematized all who held such doctrines and did 
not hold to Mary; and he expressed much concern for 
me, — for which I thanked him and said no more. There 
was very little argument, perhaps, on either side, and 
much quotation of authority on his part, which, though 
it sounded greatly, was altogether lost on me and those 
around; and this, with the fact that the conversation 
was carried on entirely in Latin, reminded me very 
forcibly of some one's definition of a "periphrasis;" 
namely, a "circumlocutory cycle of oratorical sono- 
rosity circumscribing an atom of sense lost in verbal 
profundity." Our old friend Zadoc Levi took great 



62 



TURKISH HUSBAND. 



delight in puzzling the fat jariest by questions on the 
genealogy of Scripture characters; and, when the 
" padre" could not tell who was Moses' brother or who 
Jacob's grandfather, his merriment was always excited 
at the expense of the priest, whom he seldom met 
without some Biblical thrust. Our Arab and Turkish 
acquaintances, who were in quarantine with us, con- 
tinued quite submissive to confinement; and, though 
frequently with them, we have heard no complaint 
from them. Their habits seem quite peaceful; and 
even our Turkish lord appears agreeable, and as inno- 
cent as a dove, notwithstanding some of us suspect 
him to be guilty of what in English would be trans- 
lated "murder," though probably in Turkish simply 
" killing." 

On the packet from which we disembarked for the 
quarantine there occurred an instance of the power which 
a Mussulman husband has over his wife. The Turk- 
ish ladies, having been for some time confined to the 
close air of the cabin, were permitted to ascend to the 
deck, closely veiled. One of the number, to take a 
more extended view of matters, uncovered her face 
to an extent not allowable, when, with the prompt- 
ness of a hawk, her insulted lord was at her side, and, 
with a very violent sign-language, consisting of blows and 
kicks, made it quite clear that it was not necessary to 
understand the Turkish tongue in order to comprehend 
Turkish affection. I was, on a former occasion, in- 
formed by the consul who resided at Cairo that he had 
interceded successfully with the Pasha of Egypt for the 



TAKING A WIFE'S HEAD OFF. 



6?) 



life of one of his wives, whom he had sewed up in a 
strong bag preparatory to drowning her for a very 
trifling fault committed in the palace. The same Pasha 
of Egypt, on a visit to Paris with a choice part of his 
harem, came suddenly upon one of his wives who was 
enjoying the view of the street from the window. 
Drawing his sword, he beheaded her on the spot. 
Being very respectfully informed that this method of 
treating wives was not according to the practice of 
"La belle France," the pasha simply excused himself 
upon the ground of his rights as a Mussulman, the 
Koran permitting a husband to chastise his wife for 
perverseness; and he, taking the Koran as he under- 
stood it, had adopted this tragic method as his com- 
mentary. 1 These are traits in the great overshadowing 
spirit of the Orient; and many customs and facts are 
to be understood only by a knowledge of the hereditary 
Turkish nature, — so slightly changed from the time 
when Othoman, their founder, a wanderer from the 
land of the Tartars, with a little band, first "put to 
the sword all the Christians he found" in a little 
castle in the Far North, in 1290, 2 down to 1858, 
when the same spirit instigated the massacre of the 



1<< But those [-wives] whose perverseness ye shall be apprehensive of, re- 
buke ; and move them into separate departments and chastise them." 
(Koran, chap, iv.) The Arabian commentator Al Beidawi approves of the 
beating of wives as proper and just on some occasions. See note to Sale's 
Koran, London, 1844, p. 65. 

2 See Knolles's History of the Othoman Turks, folio, 1638, p. 122. 



64 



T H M A N. 



Christians at Jeddeh, the little port of Mecca, on the 
Ked Sea. 1 



1 Othoman, by corruption Ottoman, the title given to the Turks whose 
dynasty of sultans is descended from Othoman, the first sultan, elected in 
a.d. 1289. Though of the same faith with the Arabs, they are a different 
race. The latter are descended from Ishmael, and are from Arabia. 



RELEASE FROM QUARANTINE. 



65 



CHAPTER III. 

THE DRUZES. 

On Tuesday morning we were waited upon by our 
hotel-keeper, who announced his willingness to accom- 
pany us to Beirut, as our confinement was now at an 
end. We entered quarantine late Friday evening; 
the physician declares us " whole" this morning ; and, 
though we did not see him nor he us, yet we under- 
stand that we are legally free. In the West this 
would not be five days; but, Orientally, five consecutive 
parts of days are accounted so many days: so that, 
though we entered on Friday evening, remaining Satur- 
day, Sunday, and Monday, on Tuesday we were libe- 
rated, being actually but three days in quarantine. 
This — which we found to be the universal custom 
throughout the East — brought to our mind the Scrip- 
ture-reckoning of three days to the entombment of the 
Savior, though he was crucified on Friday and rose 
early on Sunday. 1 



1 See John ii. 19, where the Savior says, "Destroy this temple, and in 
three days I will raise it up:" " he spake of the temple of his body." See 
verse 21. See also Matt, xxvii. 63, which is a repetition by the Jews of a 

5 



66 IDIOM OF THE ORIENT. 

A general packing-up commenced, and we were 
soon on the way to the gate. Here we found that a 



somewhat different wording by the Savior in chap. xvii. 23, but is correctly the 
repetition of Mark viii. 31, — " after three days." The expression is therefore 
truly Oriental for "three days," as we found throughout Syria. The only 
difficulty in connection with this scriptural point is the passage in Matt, 
xii. 40, — " For as Jonas was three days and three nights in the whale's 
belly, so shall the Son of man be three days and three nights in the heart 
of the earth," — where the nights, thus defined, might be objected against 
the fact of our Savior's entombment for only two nights. In answer, it 
will be found that the Hebrew phrase in 1 Sam. xxx. 12, 13 is precisely 
the same as that in Jonah i. 17, and is there understood as being 
only the same as the general expression " three days," which the circum- 
stances of the narrative show, and it may be therefore considered as 
meaning the same in Jonah. As our Savior quoted this " sign," he un- 
doubtedly used the same phrase, meaning it to apply to the time which he 
had often repeated, and which his disciples understood in th'e sense of the 
phrase which we have found still used in the East. This is in accordance 
with Dr. Robinson's view in " Harmony of the Gospels," notes iv. $ 49. In 
addition, it may be said that the phrase is found in similar form in Gen. 
vii. 4, in reference to the Deluge, — " forty days and forty nights," — and also 
in Exod. xxiv. 18, in reference to Moses in the mountain, and in Matt. iv. 
2, in reference to the Savior's fast, where the mention of nights with days 
seems to express only an idea of the singularity of the facts described, and 
the unusual solemnity and earnestness of those witnessing it, and is analo- 
gous to the liberty in English when we say, such "a boy was forty or fifty 
minutes under the water," — wherein we do not expect to be understood to 
mean as we say forty minutes, or if not forty then fifty minutes, but exactly 
the reverse, namely, neither forty nor fifty definitely, but some general ex- 
pression quite answered if any numbers between these two are taken. It 
is only explicable as a custom; and a similar phraseology appears in Hebrew, 
and expresses deep interest, just as when we say in English, " such a child 
was forty long minutes under the water," — not that it is any longer than 
forty minutes, but expresses the earnestness of our interest. If any one 
objects that the reference of the passage to an idiom makes it impossible 
to express the idea of day and night at all, as no one could tell when 
the Hebrew meant definitely the two combined, I answer that the expression 
used in Jonah and quoted in Matthew is not the expression used in Hebrew 
when a day and night are definitely intended; as, for instance, "and the 
evening and the morning were the first day." (Gen. i. 5.) In verses 8, 13, 
and in other places, where the Hebrew is, "and the morning was and the 
evening was the first day," being the idiomatic definite method desired by 



GETTING LOST. 67 

sentinel with his musket had always kept guard, 
and we were as much in safe keeping as though in 
prison. Yet we learned that some of our company, 
on this or on a former occasion, scaled the walls in 
the night and after a frolic in town returned before 
morning unperceived. This, if known, would have 
put the whole town in quarantine, according to cus- 
tom, preventing any from entering it or leaving it 
for five days. Three horses were in readiness for 
us at the gate. Mine was a shabby specimen of his 
race; and the only singularity about him was a col- 
lection of Syrian ornaments hung round his neck in 
the shape of dirty colored cotton strings, put upon him, 
as I afterward supposed, because he, being the meanest 
and the " slowest coach" of the three, needed some 
set-off to make amends. D. and the hotel-keeper soon 
outstripped my animal; and, as the little stupid native 
boy did not know the way to the hotel, I was lost. 
Making the best of my predicament, I wandered 
around the country, and finally, completing a circuit 
of the town, I arrived at the yellow-tinted red sand 
hill seen on the right of the view and southwest of 
Beirut, at a spot where a solitary palm-tree grew. From 
this position the country around was seen to some 
extent, though little of the town; and, looking seaward, 
there are, not far off, cliffs, affording holes and crevices 
for sea-fowl and a kind of " blue pigeon," as they have 



the objector. The term in Matthew, therefore, is the same general term as 
simply saying three days, which we have spoken of as illustrated in the 
country at the present day. 



68 



FORMER TIMES. 



been called, 1 — though what I saw seemed in the distance 
to be only varieties of the sea-gull. My little guide finally 
discovered the hotel Belle Vue, which is at the west 
of the general mass of houses constituting Beirut and 
included under the name, though Beirut proper is 
walled. The most pleasant portion of the settled 
ridge is outside the walls, which were greatly injured 
by the bombardment in 1840 by the allied fleets, in 
aid of the Sultan, against the Pasha of Egypt, Mehemet 
Ali, who gathered much from the mountaineers and 
others by way of tribute and entirely appropriated it 
to himself. Yet the majority of the inhabitants were 
Christians 2 and not subject to the conscription under 
the Egyptian pasha. The inhabitants of Beirut gene- 
rally were favorable to his government, and fearful of 
the renewal of the tyranny they used to endure under 
the Turkish rule. Ibrahim Pasha, who was an excellent 
general, then under the Egyptian pasha, gained some 
signal triumphs over the forces of the Porte, especially 
on the 24th day of June, 1839, completely routing the 
Turkish army, taking their whole "camp, baggage, 
ammunition, stores, and one hundred and twenty 
pieces of artillery;" and the report was that upwards 
of twenty-five thousand either deserted or were taken 
prisoners when the battle had just commenced. The 
Turks actually shot many of the Europeans who were 



Cairo, Petra, and Damascus/' by Kinnear, p. 267. 
2 Mr. Kinnear, in 1839, reckoned the population at fifteen thousand, in- 
cluding the suburbs, "of whom," he says, "at least two-thirds are Chris- 
tians." (P. 241.) 



THE HORN. 



69 



fighting; in their own ranks at the commencement of 
the attack. This victory was openly celebrated at Beirut 
with illuminations, even the minarets festooned with 
small glass lamps, and the bazaars were bright with 
light for three successive nights. Strange tales are 
told of the disguises among the women, who, to 
evade the governor's edict forbidding them to be seen 
in the streets after sunset, dressed in male attire and 
enjoyed the fun, and of merry eyes peeping out from 
various places, and of others who enjoyed the sport 
incog., delighted with the dances, the sherbet, and the 
rose-water so plentifully sprinkled about on such occa- 
sions. 1 

Almost the first company we met after our exit from 
the quarantine contained one female wearing the horn, 
which among the ladies is the signal of married life, — as 
much as to say, " Now keep off," — being put upon them 
at the wedding, and seldom if ever put off, even on 
retiring to sleep. This horn is about eighteen inches in 
length, of silver or tin, (according to the wealth of the 
wearer,) perforated, and worn on a little padding girt 
tightly around the head and supporting a white veil, 
which appeared to me heavy; and in the case of the 
party we met it was thrown back, fully exposing the 
face of the lady. It takes with them the place the tur- 
ban takes with the man, which is also seldom removed, 
even in salutation. To remove the turban as we 



x Mr. Kinnear, writing from this place in 1839, describes the general 
feeling at that time as an eye-witness, in his little work " Cairo, Petra, and 
Damascus/' (pp. 253-255.) 



70 MANNER OF WEARING IT. 

do the hat would be as ridiculous to a Syrian or a Turk 
as removing the boot or shoe in a salutation would be to 
us; and no more insulting remark can be used in the 
estimation of a Syrian than to say, " May God put a hat 
on your head !" The English hat is so ridiculous to the 
natives that a gentleman travelling near Baalbek was 
once asked, "Do the Christians all wear saucepans 
on their heads for turbans?" 1 A bonnet called the 
" Merveilleuse" was worn at Paris in 1793 which pro- 
jected just as far and at the same angle and looked as 
ridiculous as the horn, without the strength to sus- 
tain a veil shielding from dust and the sun. 2 The 
Maronites and the Druzes are the only wearers of this 
strange ornament, which is not always placed directly in 
front, but according to the whim of the lady, who 
sometimes pushes it a little to one side. The Druzes were 
the original wearers of the horn; and, as lately the 
patriarch of the Maronites has issued a "bull against 
horns," it is probable that the Druzes will soon be 
alone, as the Maronites are promptly obedient to the 
orders of their Superiors. 3 I shall have frequent occasion 
to refer to the mountain-tribe called the Druzes, about 
which such scattered and sometimes unsatisfactory 
notices have appeared. Perhaps I shall meet with no 



1 Mr. Browne gives an amusing account of this in " Yusef," p. 209, where, 
in addition, he says, "The natives near Baalbek were amused at the shape 
of the trousers, inquiring whether bursting was not the consequence of 
sitting down" ! 

2 Harper's Magazine, 1852, vol. ix. p. 769, "Generation of Fashions," 
gives a print of it very correctly from the usual description. 

3 Dr. Stuart, "The Tent and the Khan," p. 472. 



HAKIM. 



71 



better opportunity than at this place to speak of this 
interesting people, whose origin and history has been 
associated with so much bloodshed and mystery. It in- 
cludes much of wildness and darkness, but has lately been 
better understood than heretofore ; and though the his- 
tory of a tribe, yet it embraces much of collateral inte- 
rest, very important in the history of the country. Eight 
hundred years ago, a mere child, but a descendant 
of Mohammed, became the third caliph, or successor, 
of the race of the Fatimites in Egypt. His name, 
Hakim U arnr-allah, signifies "governing by God;" and 
at only eleven years of age (a.d. 996) he succeeded 
to the throne of Egypt. A wild and inconsistent 
boy, his orders were nevertheless scrupulously obeyed; 
and he was destined to cause anguish and terror 
to a large portion of the world. His probable 
insanity first exhibited itself in contempt of ar- 
ticles of his own faith; and he astonished the 
faithful by causing the names of the first caliphs 
and the companions of Mohammed to be cursed in 
the mosques at prayers! At the same time the 
Christians dwelt in the utmost security, enjojdng the 
highest offices, even those of viziers and governors, 1 
— which at first he permitted; but, with unaccount- 
able fury, he suddenly refused them even the privi- 
lege of worship, exposed them to robbery and death, 
and compelled their daughters and sons to profess 
the faith of Islam or be bastinadoed, crucified, or im- 



x Bar Hebr., Chron. Syria, p. 211. Robinson's Researches, vol. ii. 45. 



72 



hakim's madness. 



paled. Many were cruelly torn from home and cruci- 
fied without any alternative. At the same time, turn- 
ing his strange fury upon his own people, he amused 
himself by burning one-half of the city of Cairo, while 
he sent his soldiers to rob the other, having 
previously prohibited the making of slippers for 
the women, that they might be forced to stay at 
home. 1 Then, proceeding still further, he prohibited 
even pilgrimage to Mecca and the five prayers 
and the fastings, and crowned his folly by pro- 
claiming himself God. Such was the terror of all, 
that, on taking a census of those acknowledging his 
claims, he found the number to amount to sixteen thou- 
sand. And yet the superstitions which preserved the 
caliph were not sufficient to protect a false prophet 
who, coming from Persia, attempted to sustain the 
folly of Hakim by respecting his pretensions and adding 
that "circumcision and festivals, and even abstinence 
from wine and pork, were unnecessary." He changed Ha- 
kim's name from B'amr-allah (governing by the order 
of God) to B'amr-eh (governing by his own order). 
But the prophet's god could not save him from slaugh- 
ter by the people, for they murdered him almost in the 
arms of Hakim, who himself was slain soon after on a 
mountain called Mokattam, where he had professed to 
hold conversation with angels. 2 This prophet called 
himself Mohammed ben Ismael, (the son of Ismael;) 



1 Volney's Egypt and Syria, p. 280. 

2 El Makin Saracen Historia, lib. i. 



FIRST BATTLES OF THE DRUZES. 



73 



and his disciples, increasing in number and courage 
after the death of the prophet, carried his opinions and 
those of Hakim into Syria, as far as Beirut; and the 
new sect, being persecuted, fled to the mountain-fort- 
resses, whither their enemies found it so difficult to 
follow them that they retired and left them to grow 
bold by increase and independence. Thence, issuing 
from their retreats, they rushed in among the 
Turks of the plain-country, robbing and retreat- 
ing, despite all the efforts of the pashas, until 1585, 1 
when Amurath III. sent one Ibrahim, a young 
Slavonian, with troops against them. The Sultan, 
intending Ibrahim as his son-in-law, though poor, sent 
him from Constantinople against the Druzes, but by 
way of Egypt, — to improve his fortunes and make him- 
self worthy of the hand of the princess,— and then, 
returning by Syria, to take in hand these rebels, 
who had so long resisted all attempts to conquer them. 
He soon succeeded in gathering great wealth in Egypt, 
travelled through Palestine, and arrived at the foot of 
the Lebanon ranges, forcing into his train the govern- 
ors of various cities through which he passed, and 
inviting others, till upon his arrival his army amounted 
to a force so strong that many joined through fear. There 
were but five Druze governors ; and, fortunately for Ibra- 
him, a feud springing up between them, three of the live 



1 Volney (pp. 267-283) says 1588. This is an error, for Ibrahim arrived 
at the foot of Lebanon, in the valley of the Bukaa, July, 1585, as is 
plainly seen in Knolles's History of the Turks, p. 983, folio, London, 
1638. 



74 



THE WARY CHIEF. 



on his arrival in revenge went over to the camp of the 
Sultan's general and brought their followers with them. 
The number of Ibrahim's troops now amounted to twenty 
thousand horse. 

Two chiefs still remained in their mountain strong- 
holds. Tempted by a hope of pardon and favor and influ- 
enced by fear, one of the two came down from the moun- 
tains bearing valuable presents and with his people sur- 
rendered at the tent of Ibrahim. But the memory of 
the old feud led him to accuse the three Druze chiefs 
who were then sitting in Ibrahim's tent. They repelled 
his charges, and he was immediately made a prisoner. 
One yet remained in the mountains, who called himself 
the " Son of Man." He declined with great cunning all 
the summons and promises of Ibrahim, returning a letter 
couched in submissive terms, and pleading an oath he had 
taken when almost a child never to put himself in the 
power of a Turk, as his father had been murdered when 
relying upon similar promises. The letter was a shrewd 
compound of cunning, pathos, and determination not to 
submit. Ibrahim then mounted the rocks of Lebanon, 
destroyed twenty-four towns, and encamped not far 
from Andera, 1 the town of the rebel Druze, but could 
proceed no farther. In the mean time, the "Son of 
Man," falling upon a detached part of Ibrahim's com- 
pany, boldly attacked them, and put five hundred 
to the sword, escaping with much of the wealth 
and armor of the Turks. Ibrahim tried every effort 



1 Or Andrea. In Knolles's History of Amurath III. both names are used. 



CRUELTY OF IBRAHIM. 



75 



to draw out the wary chief, who sent him his mother 
to act the part of an ambassador, with a present 
of three hundred and twenty guns, twenty packs of 
Andarine silks, and fifty thousand ducats- 1 and after- 
ward, the pasha sending yet another message to the 
Druze chief, inviting him to his tent and making many 
fair promises, he sent back by the messenger four hundred 
and eighty guns and fifty thousand ducats more, adding 
one hundred and fifty camels and one thousand oxen, be- 
sides one thousand goats and other animals. This exhibits 
the resources of a single Druze chief. Ibrahim, in hopes 
of additional gain, forced his messenger once more to re- 
turn, who, at the risk of his life and by promises, gained 
some further presents of guns and swords, gilt daggers, 
silver belts, and ten packs of silk. Supposing he had now 
drained the Druze chief of his money and his arms, he 
ravaged the valleys, destroying nineteen towns, and burn- 
ing every thing in his way ; then, sending messages to four 
thousand troops riding at anchor in the Bay of Sidon, 
he commanded them to ravage the country as far as 
Cassarea, on the coast ; and the whole country belong- 
ing to the two chiefs, with towns and castles, was 
laid waste. In the mean time, by stratagems and 
promises, he got the rebel Druze into his hands, putting 
him to a cruel death. 2 He was now ready to return to 



1 The ducat at this time was equal to 3s. 4d. sterling. Hence 50,000 ducats 
would have been £7583, or about $37,000. Vide Rees's Encyclopedia, art. 
" Money." 

2 He was flayed alive, and died under the cruel operation, uttering curses 
against the Turks, Mohammed, and especially Ibrahim, accusing him of 



76 SUBJUGATION OF THE DRUZES. 

Constantinople, to the Sultan and to his affianced bride ; 
and, wishing to appoint one of the chiefs as king or 
emir of the Druzes, Ali ibn Carsus, the most obedient 
and the richest of the three who resigned to him at his 
first arrival, was chosen. To him he intrusted the 
sole government, clothing him with kingly garments 
of cloth and gold, extorting 100,000 ducats ($75,000) 
from him previously. Wresting further sums out of 
the inhabitants at Damascus, he returned to Beirut, 
where by his secret orders his galleys were in waiting. 
Sending off his treasures to Constantinople and pitching 
his tent alone on one of the hills of Beirut, he invited 
at midnight another of the three chiefs, on pretence 
of obtaining him as a guide ; and, failing to get ad- 
ditional gold from the affrighted chief, he seized him 
and started for Constantinople, having previously 
robbed the town and country of Beirut, which be- 
longed to this Druze and contained a surpassing 
amount of wealth in money, cloths, silks, and gold. 
Thus the Druzes, who at that time were described as 
warlike and resolute, and who up to this time held 
authority and land even to Joppa, were, through 
division, subdued, although had they remained united 
they would probably have been able to resist victoriously 
even the Sultan himself. They were now reduced, 
and have never since recovered their former wealth and 
extent of authority and territory. Descriptions by 



perjury and ridiculing him even during the execution of his cruel orders. 
— Knolles's History of Turkey, p. 985. 



FAKIR ED DIN. 



77 



writers at this time — a.d. 1638 — represent them as 
religious observers of their superstitions, and in battle 
using a short hand-gun (the arquebus) and the scimetar, 
and occasionally lances and darts, wearing turbans and 
long coats buttoned up in front. 1 They abhorred the 
Turks and their faith, lived uncircumcised, used wine, 
and were permitted to marry their daughters. 2 For a 
time these conquered chiefs remained quietly recovering 
their strength, until about the commencement of the 
next century, when they made rapid progression under 
the ambition and talents of Fakir ed Din. Becoming 
the king or emir, under the plan adopted by Ibrahim, 
he cunningly gained possession of Beirut, turning the 
aga out of his office, yet actually pleasing the Sultan 
with increased tribute, though he had appointed 
the aga himself. At length, gaining great power and 
becoming an object of suspicion to the surrounding 
chiefs, and even to the Sultan, who saw with fear the 
growth of the Druzes, he left his son as chief, and, 
embarking at Beirut, sailed for Italy, waiting upon the 

1 The turbans worn by the Turks about the year 1630 were of enormous 
size, so that an historian of that day (Knolles) says " being so great that 
they can scarce therewith come in at a dore," especially the better sort 
of them, — viz., the Turks. At the same time he mentions that Othoman, 
their founder, lies buried at Prusa, in a little chapel "in an old monastery 
in a castle standing in the midst of the city, covered with a mantle of green 
chamlet and a little tulipant or Turkish hat, such as he used to wear, 
differing from those which the Turks now wear." This was seen in 
Knolles's time, — 1638, — though Othoman died in 1328. He was sixty-nine 
years of age at his death, and gave a title to his linear descendants, who 
are called the Othoman Turks, — by alteration, Ottoman Turks. — Knolles's 
History of the Turks, p. 177, 1638. 

2 This at the present day is denied, whatever might have been the case 
formerly. Probably allowable under perfect secrecy. (See page 82, note 1.) 



78 



ORIGIN OF THE NAME DKUZE. 



court of the Medici at Florence for help against the 
Sultan. Here and at this time originated the notion 
that the Druzes were descendants from the French 
Crusaders under one Count de Dreux, who after the 
Crusades settled in the mountains of Lebanon with a 
remnant. Many formed the opinion from the similarity 
of the words Druze and Dreux that this was the origin 
of the name and tribe. But since, as has been shown, 1 
they were spoken of as Druzes at the commencement of 
the Crusades, the count's claim falls to the ground ; and 
their name is rightly shown to be derived from Moham- 
med ben Ismael, of whom we have spoken above, who 
was called El Dorzi and was their instructor. Hence 
their present name, "Druze," from Deruz, a plural form 
in the Arabic, a pure dialect of which they speak, — which 
would not have been probable had they been foreigners 
confined amid the mountains. Fakir ed Din remained 
nine years in Italy, — -long enough to acquire a taste for 
all its elegance, — and, on his return, his son having 
settled all trouble, ruled well, and kept the Turks at 
bay, he introduced many of the Italian luxuries, even 
in painting and sculpture, erected villas, planted 
gardens, without any regard to prejudices or com- 
plaints. Rousing the jealousies of the pashas around 
him, heavier tributes were levied, and war broke out. 
The Druzes, under the Emir Fakir ed Din, defeated the 



1 Volney , s Egypt and Syria, p. 285, Dublin, 1793, says that the name of 
the Druzes " is to be found in the Itinerary of Benjamin of Tudela, who 
travelled before the times of the Crusades," 1160-1173, — i. e,., too early in 
the Crusades for such an origin. — Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 467. 



RISE OF DJEZZAR THE BUTCHER. 



79 



pashas and alarmed the Sultan, who besieged him at 
Beirut. Losing his son and troops, and enfeebled by 
his voluptuous life, he attempted, through presents sent 
by his second son, to bribe the Turkish admiral, who 
seized both the presents and the son. Fakir ed Din 
fled, was betrayed into the hands of his enemies 
and carried to Constantinople, where at first he was 
received courteously by the Sultan, who afterward, 
about 1631, 1 in a violent fit of passion, ordered him to 
be strangled. Thus again they lost much of the power 
they had gained, and remained comparatively quiet, 
though vassals of the Turks, till the next century. 
Their power again met with new life and reached its 
height about 1759, when their hope, the Emir Melham. 
died; and, after some troublesome changes, the ring — - 
the symbol of authority with the Druzes — was given to 
Yousef, his son. 

Just at this time one of the bloodiest and most 
remarkable characters was in course of secret develop- 
ment. It was a character which was destined shortly 
to spread the strangest terror throughout the land. 
At the age of sixteen, flying from Bosnia, where he 
had been guilty of an attempt of violence against 
his sister-in-law, a lad entered Constantinople. Unable 
to obtain food, he sold himself for a slave and was 
sent to Cairo to the bey, who made him an officer. 
Here he distinguished himself in private assassinations 
at the command of the bey, and so artfully that he 



1 Volney's Egypt and Syria, p. 287. 



80 



djezzar's treachery. 



received the name of Djezzar, (the cut-throat, 1 ) though 
his real name was Ahmed. But, refusing to murder an 
officer who had offended his master, he escaped to Con- 
stantinople secretly, and, failing to get aid, went to 
Syria, where the Druzes received him kindly. He was 
made aga at Damascus. Fortune favored him with 
command at Beirut, at the desire of Yousef, the Druze 
emir, who had sent to the Pasha of Damascus for aid 
against an opposing Druze faction. No sooner was 
Djezzar safely established at Beirut, though only under 
the invitation to aid the Druze chief Yousef, who was 
the rightful lord of the town, than he declared in favor 
of the Turks, and, to the utter chagrin of his kind 
friend Yousef, seized Beirut in behalf of the Sultan. 
Yousef immediately entered into league with a Pasha 
Daher, at variance with the Sultan, and stormed Beirut. 
Djezzar, seeing no other escape from ruin, delivered him- 
self prisoner to the Pasha Daher, who, admiring his 
bravery and general appearance, instead of destroying the 
" Butcher," kindly took him to Acre, and even gave him 
the command of a small band on an expedition into 
Palestine. Djezzar again, out of sight of the pasha, went 
over to the Turks, and, returning to Damascus, offered 
himself in aid of the Turkish admiral against his deli- 
verer, the Pasha Daher, who was at Acre. Daher having 
been attacked and slain by the admiral, Djezzar was 
made Pasha of Acre. And now, being superior to his old 



1 Baron de Tott, part iv. of his Memoirs, says, "Butcher," — probably 
another meaning of the same word. 



MARONITES. 



81 



friend Yousef, the Druze, he showed his gratitude by 
working upon his fears and his desire for peace to such 
an extent that in five years he obtained bribes to 
the amount of £160,000, ($774,000,) notwithstanding 
the revenue of the Druze's land yielded no more 
annually than £4000, (ll^SOO.) 1 He then made 
war upon him, and appointed another emir in his 
place. 2 Thus until his death the " Butcher" kept these 
mountaineers in constant terror. They now pay tribute 
to the Sultan, as they have clone since 1840. Before 
that time this tribute was received by Mehemet Ali, a 
former Pasha of Egypt. 3 

The Maronites, who are ardent admirers of the Pope, 
though not quite orthodox in some articles of faith, 
have always given their neighbors more or less trouble ; 
and their patriarch, by evil advice, instigated his people 
to such innovations upon the Druzes that in 1841 
and 1845 the most terrible bloodshed occurred, until 
the Turkish Government deprived them of their arms. 

1 Volney , s Egypt and Syria, p. 293. 

2 Lord Byron, in a letter to E. D. Clarke, calls Djezzar "Sir Sidney 
Smith's energetic old man." — Life of E. D. Clarke, 4to, p. 627. I may 
have occasion to refer to his energy and cruelty combined, when we arrive 
at Acre. 

3 Mehemet Ali, Pasha of Egypt, was born in 1769, rose to the pashalic 
of Cairo in 1806, and in 1830 seized upon Syria, of which in 1840 he was 
deprived by the Sultan, who was aided by England. He died August 3, 
1849, aged eighty years. He was a remarkably resolute old man, with 
a singularly patriarchal appearance, and with a magnificent beard, for 
which he was more noted than for any other single physical feature. He 
was succeeded by Ibrahim, who died in two months, and then by Abbas, 
a miserable voluptuary, who died mysteriously in July, 1854. The 
present ruler, Sa'id Pasha, the fourth son of Mehemet Ali, is an energetic 
and intelligent governor. 

6 



82 



DRUZE s' FAITH. 



Their religion lias less of mystery about it than for- 
merly, though they still keep their form of worship 
secret. But several of their sacred books and cate- 
chisms have during their troubles fallen into European 
hands. These show that they believe (as we have 
already partly stated) in the lawfulness of marriage 
between brothers and sisters, 1 and, to some extent, in 
the transmigration of souls. They eat pork and drink 
wine, observe no festivals or fasts, and, in truth, — 
among the masses especially, — have very little religion 
of any kind which exhibits itself beyond what are 
called the mysteries, which are confined to the initiated, 
called "Akal," all others being called the ignorant, 
or "Djahel." An English translation of a Druze 
catechism, made by a missionary in Syria, was sent to 
Dr. Wilson, of Bombay, and is similar to the one some 
time before obtained 2 in which we find the doctrine of a 
final judgment to take place when the Christians are 
victorious over the Moslems; permission to profess 
faith in the Koran merely for appearance' sake; the 
assertion that none can become a Druze whether he 
professes the faith or not, " for when he dies he will 
return to his former religion ;" that women are to be 
cared for and instructed in the true religion, and 
adulterers punished; and that their Messiah, termed 
" Hamzah," caused the death of Antichrist at the 



1 Allowable only in case of perfect secrecy. See Memoirs of Lady Stan- 
hope, London, 1845. Three Weeks in Palestine and Lebanon, 1836, p. 137. 

2 De Lacy's Expose de la Religion des Druzes, Paris, 1838. See also Dr. 
Wilson, vol. ii. p. 71. 



DRUZE HOSPITALITY. 



83 



crucifixion, while the true Christ ("Hamzah") sug- 
gested the "gospels," though the fact was unknown to 
the Christians, whom they term Nusan, (Nazarenes,) 
and whom, they consider deceived by Antichrist. There 
is considerable indistinctness, to say the least, if 
not positive absurdity, in the catechism; yet, with the 
exception of some very obscene ceremony in their 
worship, this catechism contains their entire religion, 
with hardly an exception. They are not permitted 
to declare their faith to any one. Their most important 
trait to travellers is their noted hospitality, which cha- 
racterizes them as a tribe, though they do not in 
this respect excel all others in the land. In times 
past they have hazarded their lives and those of their 
families to protect a stranger from the attacks of their 
own friends. And this peculiar hospitality, being a 
Syrian trait, brings to mind the conduct of Abraham, 1 
and especially that of Lot, 2 in their hospitable enter- 
tainment of the strangers whom they found passing 
through their land. It will be remembered that Lot 
protected the comfort and lives of his guests with the 
most extreme offers. 

This spirit, singularly characteristic of the Syrians, 
has always existed among the Druzes ; and Volney, 
who visited and remained eight months among them 
in a convent, to learn the Arabic, and then travelled a 
year in Syria, 3 relates that a few years before his visit an 



1 Gen. xviii. 3-5. 2 Gen. xix. 2, 9. 

3 Preface to Volney's Egypt and Syria, Dublin, 1793. 



84 talhouk's indignant answer. 

aga (under-officer) of the janissaries, (the body-troops of 
the Sultan,) having been engaged in a rebellion, retired 
among the Druzes. The pasha demanded him of one 
of the emirs of the Druzes, and the latter demanded him 
of the Druze sheik Talhouk, who entertained him. The 
sheik indignantly replied, " When have you known 
the Druzes to deliver up their guests ? Tell the emir 
that as long as Talhouk shall preserve his beard not a 
hair on the head of his suppliant shall fall." He was 
threatened with the destruction of fifty mulberry-trees 
a day, upon which he depended for silk, until he should 
deliver up the aga; and the emir proceeded to execute 
his threat, until a thousand trees were destroyed. 
Yet the sheik was inflexible. At length the other 
Druzes, becoming enraged at the demand, sided with 
the hospitable sheik, and the aga ran away, not wish- 
ing to put his host to any further trouble or sacrifice ; 
but he took flight without the knowledge of Tal- 
houk. 1 

The Maronites, living as the Druzes do, are never- 
theless not so brave, reckless, and daring; and this 
— acknowledged by the Maronites — is erroneously at- 
tributed to the supposition that the Druzes do not 
believe in a future state, 2 while the truth lies in the fact 
that they are of a different race and of different culture 
from their earliest origin, inheriting the ancient; cha- 
racteristics of the Arab, modified by their local position 
and political relation. In 1784 they were estimated 



1 Volney, p. 305. 



2 Ibid. p. 303. 



ANSARIANS. 



85 



at forty thousand 1 men able to bear arms, or one hundred 
and twenty thousand in all, and were then more nume- 
rous than the Maronites, the latter having thirty- 
five thousand men, or in all one hundred and fifteen 
thousand. 2 In 1840, from the best information, based 
on the pasha's tax-list, there were but seventy thou- 
sand Druzes and two hundred thousand Maronites. 3 
Such is the character and origin of a people to whom 
we were introduced the very hour of our freedom 
from the quarantine-grounds, and who are the most 
important of the tribes around. A friendly and inti- 
mate acquaintance with this people would afford the 
traveller better access to the surrounding country than 
would even the friendship of the Sultan. They inhabit, 
in addition to other places, a large tract east of the 
Lake of Tiberias, and, north of the lake, with a little 
exception, as far as the Lebanon, and on the coast to 
the modern Jebeil, twenty miles north of Beirut. 4 North 
of this, however, is the country of the Maronites, who 
are Latin Catholics, and whose country stretches to the 
north for forty miles to the Nahr el Kebir, (or great river, 
— the Eleutherus.) North of this tribe is another myste- 
rious sect, of which little is known, called the Ansarians 
or Ansariz, whose land, covered with a chain of moun- 
tains, extends from the Nahr el Kebir to Antakia, on 

1 Volney, p. 302. 2 Ibid. p. 270. 

3 " Cairo. Petra, and Damascus," p. 244. 

4 The ancient and Biblical Gebal, (Ezek. xxvii. 9,) the more modern Byblus, 
the city of the Giblites. Josh. xiii. 5 ; 1 Kings v. 18. In the latter place 
the Hebrew is "the Giblites" D^^jj, though translated "stone squarers." 
Vide 1 Kings v. 32 in the Hebrew text. 



86 



DRUZE HORN NOT SCRIPTURAL. 



the far north. They are of somewhat similar faith to 
the Druzes, save that they would not believe in the 
divinity of their Hakim, the third caliph of Egypt, and 
therefore they have kept apart. 1 Eeference has been 
frequently made to the ornamental horn of the Druzes 
as an illustration of the Scripture-reference to the horn. 
But this illustration will be seen to be far beneath the 
beauty and dignity of the context of various jjlaces where 
the word occurs. 2 It was the symbol of power and 
honor, used in this sense before Moses entered into the 
promised land, 3 and hence could not have derived its 
significance from any thing in Syria. Besides, the 
Druzes are the individuals with whom, so far as history 
enlightens us, this wearing of the horn originated, and 
they themselves do not date further back than the 
eleventh century, as we have seen above. The Maro- 
nites, who have worn it comparatively a short time, 
have copied it from the Druzes. Moreover, the term used 
to describe the Druze horn is "tantur"* — a very different 

1 The Crusaders, meeting with some of them, slew them ; and a historian 
of that time, — William of Tyre, (lib. xx. cap. 30,) — speaking of them, con- 
founds them -with the Assassins, a sect of robbers in Syria, whom pro- 
bably they imitated by their sudden waylaying, surprising, and murdering 
their victims. Hence the term in English "assassin," being derived from a 
word in Arabic, Jiassassin, in common Arabic meaning "robbers of the 
night/' from the root hass, with h aspirate, signifying, "to kill, to listen, 
to surprise," and first used during the Crusades for just such a sect called 
by this name. — Yolney, p. 261. 

2 Ps. lxxv. 4, 5, lxxxix. 17, 24, cxii. 9; 1 Sam. ii. 1, 10; 2 Sam.-xxii. 3; 
Job xvi. 15. 

3 Deut. xxxiii. 17. 

4 This word signifies more particularly "the covering," or "the head- 
covering and though there is a term sometimes used in later times similar 
to the Hebrew for horn, yet the usual and legitimate name is " taritur," — a 
word associating with itself the idea of a covering. 



INSECURITY OF THE HARBOR. 



87 



word from that used in the Scriptures, (always Jceren,) 
which evidently has reference to no ornament for the 
human head whatever. From all that can be gathered 
from among this people, the form has not always been 
the same as at present. It is not used among the 
men, — which the Scripture-illustration would require. 
At all events, we should just as soon look among the 
people for some who wore hoofs to illustrate the Scrip- 
ture-reference " I will make thy hoofs brass" (Micah 
iv. 13) as to seek an illustration of the Scripture-horn 
in this comparatively modern ornament, worn among a 
comparatively modern people, however convenient and 
ornamental an illustration it may appear in the eyes 
of some. We confess that, with others, we have been 
led to this conclusion contrary to our hopes at first 
finding something of happily illustrative of a scrip- 
tural figure. But, apart from the more beautiful and 
figurative idea of strength and honor symbolized in the 
term, I am, from an examination of the present un- 
natural and painful custom, convinced that it is neither 
derivative from, nor illustrative of, the nobler and higher 
idea of the scriptural and figurative reference to the 
horn. 

After breakfast at our hotel, we passed out by the 
sea-side part of the town for a walk. The harbor is 
poor; and several small vessels had taken refuge in a 
little cove, where they were bouncing about at a fearful 
rate within a few feet of rocks, entirely dependent 
upon cables and chains, out of stern and bow, tied 
round the rocks on the shore. The sea rolled in mag- 



88 



CURIOUS PASSAGE IN THE ROCKS. 



nincently against some broken, time-eaten crags, dash- 
ing the spray to a great height and making a noise 
very much resembling that of a distant cannonade. At 
one place the sea was received into a ledge affording a 
passage under water opening out upon the shore; and 
every approaching wave forced the wind through the 
cavity, creating a hissing noise, and throwing up stones 
weighing several pounds, followed by a spray of water 
and with beautiful rainbows. 

We turned and walked toward the mission-house, out 
of the city proper and in the suburbs. Here the tall 
prickly-pear 1 forms impassable hedges, growing upon the 
stone walls. The leaves of this plant, armed with groups 
of hard and silicious thorns, are often from eighteen to 
twenty inches in length, the thorns being frequently one 
and a half inches long; and one trunk I measured was 
thirty-one and a half inches in circumference. The fol- 
lowing is a drawing of a tree from nature. 




Cactus, Ficus Indicus. 



THE VEIL AND SHEET. 



89 



It requires considerable skill, especially on horseback, 
to avoid being pricked in the face or most unceremoni- 
ously spurred up by one of these long thorns ; and yet, 
hard as enamel and stiff as they are, the camels, of 
which I see numbers here, actually manage to eat them 
without injury. 

We passed numbers of women with the shocking veil 
upon their faces, more devoid of ornament than those 
of Alexandria, and appearing at times as if they intended 
it as a preliminary to a game of " blind-man's buff." It 
is called in the Arabic " mendel." Many of the females 
are covered with white sheets, having nothing to relieve 
the ghostly appearance except these brown or black 
"mendels." 

The half-ruined walls are much corroded by age and 
the salt breezes, and are peculiar in a little ornamental 
pattern at the top of the wall, being an alteration of the 
clievreuil pattern, thus : — 




Rev. Eli Smith — since deceased 1 — received us kindly; 
and, in visiting the school, we passed the graveyard 
where are the tombs of the missionaries, and among 
others that of Mr. Fisk, the earnest man of Christ, 



January 11, 1857. 



90 



A MISSION-SCHOOL. 



whose private letters to a near relative, full of hope 
and zeal, I had often read, and which are in my pos- 
session. It is a flat tomb, composed of some twenty- 
five rectangular pieces laid together horizontally, with 
one containing simply, — 

KEY. PLINY FISK. 

DIED OCT. 23, 1825, 

MT. 33 YEARS. 

And there he sleeps, surrounded by the buried children 
of the mission, whom Mr. S. called missionaries them- 
selves. At a short distance we passed an open door 
through which we saw about thirty children and some 
girls, all sitting in the Oriental style on the floor, as was 
also the turbaned teacher, who used cards a few inches 
long. They received gratuitous education altogether ; and 
I was told that the missionaries could have as many as 
they could teach. We left the grounds with the intention 
of examining them more thoroughly hereafter, and passed 
into town for some purchases. The bazaars in Beirut, 
the streets, the merchants, and the enterprise, are much 
the same as in other seaport towns, and even as in 
Alexandria. Here is the same little room on the side of 
the street, having one broad opening serving the double 
purpose of door and window, the floor of the room being 
raised about three feet above the pavement. On, the 
shelves of the little room, arranged around a large mass 
of colored cloth in the middle of the floor, are the wares of 
the merchant. After looking at the shelves, you involun- 
tarily glance at the central, quiet mass on the floor. You 



METHOD IN SHOPPING. 



91 



suspect a human form simply from the existence of eyes, 
which, from beneath an unusual bunch of a turban, are 
peeping over a huge amount of hair, from the midst of 
which proceeds a yellow glass handle let into a black 
stick, four feet long, running into a pipe. You suppose 
the object has limbs, — perhaps lungs and a heart, — 
perhaps can speak; though up to this moment he says 
nothing, moves nothing but his eyes. A puff of smoke 
lazily ascends; and, encouraged, you ask him in Turkish 
to supply your wants. The eyes look at you, probably 
in surprise that any one being a giaour, (an infidel^) one 
who wears " a saucepan for a hat" and has no more hair 
below his nose than a woman, should presume to speak 
Turkish. He wakes up at last, and you find he can 
speak very good English. You attempt to bargain : 
the price is enormous. You tell him so. He strokes his 
huge beard, raises his eyes reverentially to the dirty 
wall overhead, and swears in Arabic that it is very 
cheap. You beat him down from twenty piastres to 
fifteen. You tell him that the price is extravagant. He 
talks loud : you must speak quickly and loud, upon the 
principle of self-defence. He declares that he would 
be ruined at such a sacrifice, and gives some reasons. 
You persevere, and he comes down to ten piastres. You 
pretend to leave. He summons energy to repeat how 
unmerciful you are, how cruel, how unfeeling, how 
ignorant of the customs ; but, swearing again by Allah, 
he yields to the utter ruin you have brought upon his 
peace and pleasure, declaring he will meditate on 
the sacrifice for a week. Finally you submit, feeling 



92 



EXCITEMENT IN A BARGAIN. 



some pangs of conscience at your bargain gained at such 
expense to a " poor Turk." You pay him eight piastres 
and take your property, feeling convicted of ruining the 
man, until, meeting your guide, he tells you that the 
bearded old thief sold the same thing the day before for 
six piastres, which is the usual price. This is what you 
may expect in all Turkish bazaars, should you buy a 
horse or a shoe-string. I have seen the dealers in the 
Egyptian slave-market sit on their mats for long periods 
motionless, as if it were necessary to the bargain, and 
then, when an offer was made, commence a volley 
of words and gestures, — the procedure being the same 
in the purchase of a Nubian slave as in that of an orange. 

In the smaller shops, as much harangue and storm 
has been made by my muleteer over the purchase of a 
pipe as would have " signified" a war between Russia 
and the Sultan. 

In one of the bazaars my friend found some oil-cloth to 
protect his " pedestals," as he said, from the rain we 
anticipated on our route south. The cloth is sold by a 
measure called the "peak," (Arabic, "pik;") and the 
measure by my English rule was exactly twenty-seven 
inches, 1 and is the general measure used. 

Some of the bazaars are in the European style, which 
will be generally adopted after a few years. We passed 
shops where were exposed for sale dried and fresh dates, 

1 Dr. Barclay, in his excellent work, "The City of the Great King/' says 
(p. 247) that the Constantinople cubit, plk, or drah is 30 inches, and the 
"builders' drah" of Jerusalem in common use is in length from 25 to 
26J inches. This I think rather under the shop-measure, in which, how- 
ever, there is no reliable accuracy. 



FALSE WEIGHTS. 



93 



oranges, citrons, pears, (somewhat tasteless,) quinces, 
(small,) and very fine grapes, very much elongated 
and translucent, resembling in shape those we find 
in Home, pronounced "Peetzutello." 

The Arabs bring in the wool of their desert sheep to 
market in bags, and merchants are here from England 
and other lands in search of it. A merchant friend from 
America informs me that he has to examine every sack 
if he desires to insure the purchase of pure wool without 
any rocks or pebbles thrown in to increase the weight. 
Sugar and coffee are brought in by French vessels, the 
former being white and good at about 10 cts. per pound, 
and the latter about 8 cts. The English importations are 
greatest, and supply the cotton-manufacturers in calicoes 
and white cotton cloths and prints, the latter generally 
of a coarse sort, but selling at six and eight cents a 
yard. Their exports consist principally of raw silk, 
generally selling at about $1 40 to $1 60 per pound, 
and wool, which varies. This spring (1858) the wool 
has so risen in price as not to warrant purchasers from 
the American market, though a few months before quite 
a speculation might have been made. Other articles, 
such as madder, seeds, and gums, help considerably to 
make up the balance of exports. 

On our way we visited the consul at his office. There 
we noticed a clock, with a dial containing an inner series 
of Turkish figures and an external corresponding row 
of the usual English numbers, as in the sketch on the 
following page. 

But the most suggestive information was gained from 



94 



YANKEE CLOCKS. 




some lettering on the face, which indicated that it was 
from a Connecticut factory and a genuine "Yankee 
notion," made for the Syrian market. The figures were 
a slight improvement upon the usually lean Turkish nu- 
merals, and rather more Turkish than the original, — as 
may be seen in the figure 9, which in the Turkish or 
Arabic is much more like our numeral figure of the same 
value than the Yankee-Turkish nine ; yet the latter is 
more crescent-like than the figure on the left, which is 
nearer the usual form of the plain Turkish numeral, 
improved in the right-hand figure, which may be called 
the improved ornamental Turkish. We noticed that the 
Arabs and other Syrians at the quarantine who had 
watches of the usual form had both hour and minute 
hand set at the figure 12 at sunset, or rather for six 
o'clock, one o'clock being one hour after sunset, and so 
on till twelve, which would be considered as sunrise, 
If they were asked, therefore, the time at noon, their 
reply would be, " It is the sixth hour," — meaning the 
sixth hour after sunrise, or, more strictly, after that 
twelve at which their watch was set at sunrise. 1 Thus, 



1 "Are there not twelve hours in the day?" John xi. 9. 



ORIENTAL DIVISION OF THE DAY. 



95 



as in the time of our Savior, the simple method, and 
the one most natural, of reckoning the hours from sunset 
and sunrise, still obtains the ascendency, and reminds us 
of the constant references in the Scriptures to a simi- 
lar method. 1 The distinction between the night and the 
day hours is the same that is made in the fifteenth verse 
of the second chapter of Acts, where the day-hour is 
mentioned as "the third hour of the day ;." and in the 
twenty-third verse of the twenty-third chapter the same 
hour at night is called " the third hour of the night " 

The complexion of the Syrians is lighter than that 
of the Egyptians of the same class: it may be said 
to be that of the brunette slightly shaded. The color 
is hardly describable in that class of the peasants 
who are generally exposed : the other classes being 
much fairer. Some of the females we suspected 
of staining the eyelids black, as they did in Egypt; 
and, watching one girl of about fifteen years of 
age, I am certain that she had thus dyed the under 
eyelids, and afterward found that it was performed 
with a little brush and upon the edge of the eyelid, 
to give it, as one informed me, "an almond shape." 
But large eyes are considered beautiful; and the 
little delicate black edge, when neatly made, did 
not appear to us otherwise than ornamental, — at 
least, not less so than the best style of painting 
applied in our own land to the cheeks. The eyes of 



1 Matt. xx. 3, xxvii. 45, 46; Mark xv. 25 ; John i. 39, iv. 6, 52 ; Acts ii. 
15, iii. 1. 



96 



PAINTING EYES. 



the Orientals are now and were anciently considered the 
chief charms of a beautiful face, as numerous classic 
references prove: hence the reference to a necessity, 
on the part of those ladies liable to the perils of beauty, 
for a "covering of the eyes" similar to that which 
Abimelech afforded Sarah when her eyes nearly 
proved to be the occasion of his ruin. 1 In 2 Kings ix. 
30, where Jezebel hears of Jehu's coming, the literal 
translation is, " which J ezebel hearing of, put her eyes 
in paint" — dressed her head well and looked out at 
a window. 2 So also in Jeremiah iv. 30, painting the 
eyes is a part of the toilet in the adorning of a 
coquette for her lovers. And yet a word in that 
passage seems to indicate that the operation was some- 
times painful, as I find both here and in Egypt to be 
the case where a young girl not practised in the use 
of the antimonial powder carelessly gets it into the eye. 
It is said to scratch or "tear the eyes;" and hence I sup- 

1 Gen. xx. 16. 

2 And for this reason I cannot "but think that the translation in Solomon's 
Song iv. 1, where of his bride he says, " Thou (Jiast) doves' eyes," should 
be, "thou hast eyes like doves," — not the little eyes of cloves, but like doves 
themselves; that is, beautiful, innocent, and gentle. The Hebrew has it, 
"thine eyes doves," there being no construct form to exhibit any thing 
more. Besides, the same form is in the same verse translated " thy hair 
[is] as a flock of goats." Why not say, "as the hair of a flock of goats" ? 
Again, in the second verse, " Thy teeth [are] like a flock of sheep." The 
form being precisely the same, it would require the translation to be " the 
teeth like those of a flock of sheep :" if not, eyes should be represented not 
as the eyes of doves, but as the doves themselves, just as in the case of 
the hair and the teeth. So in Song v. 12, " As the eyes of doves by the 
rivers of waters, washed with milk, [and] fitly set." In the original it 
is " eyes like doves \keyonim] upon [al] the rivers of waters, washed in 

be] milk, set in fulness," (jlN^D' milleth,) — i.e. large. 



INTERESTING FACT. 



97 



pose the expression in Jeremiah, " Though thou rentest 
thy face [Hebrew, " rentest thine eyes"] with painting, 
in vain shalt thou make thyself fair." It is a very 
interesting fact that among the Abyssinians, who have 
many customs evidently obtained from the ancient 
Hebrews, there is a practice of painting the eyes with 
a preparation of " stibium, or black-lead" powder, mixed 
with a little soot, and put on with a small pencil, 
which they call Men. They believe it to be a great 
preservative of the sight; and the paint is in their 
language called cueJiol or coliol^ — a word which has 
been in use from time immemorial, and exists in 
several Eastern languages. It is singular that the very 
word used in Ezekiel xxiii. 40 to signify "paintedst," 
in the sentence "for whom thou . . . paintedst thy 
eyes," is, in the Hebrew of the Scriptures, " for whom 
thou didst use the cohol for thine eyes," the word being 
in the same form as that in Abyssinia given to the 
paint, as if both the use and the name were relics 
preserved through centuries to the present day. 1 

1 Whence the Greek collyrium, as it were coliollyrium. The Arabic word 
el cohol still remains in the Spanish language, where there is a proverb, 
"Elpolvo de las ovejas el cohol es para el lobo" " The dust which the sheep 
raise is a collyrium to quicken the wolf's sight." — Hist. Ethiopia Liidolphus, 
folio, London, 1682, bk. i. ch. vii. p. 32. 



7 



98 



TURKISH PASSPORT. 



CHAPTER IV. 

INTERESTING MISSION-SCHOOLS DEPARTURE FOR THE SOUTH. 

To-day we received our "tezkirah," or passport, for 
which we pay six piastres (twenty-six cents) apiece. 
This paper, though seldom called for, is yet a safeguard, 
making the Government responsible in case of our 
injury or robbery. 1 This was preparatory to our de- 



1 It is as long as a foolscap sheet and more than half the width, printed 
in Turkish, having in an oval piece at the top "Traveller's Tezkirah [or 
passport,]" with a flourish; then, half-way down the paper, the statement 
of intent of the traveller, his permission and his name, which in my case 
was without any title whatever, and the first syllable so spelled in Turkish 
letters (similar to Arabic) that it could be pronounced with four different 
sounds, according as it was read in Algiers, Egypt, Arabia, or Syria, the 
Arabic having a different peculiarity in the different places, so that the 
otherwise excellent Arabic Grammar (Algerine) of Bled de Braine has to 
be repeatedly corrected for Syria. The blanks of the tezkirah for date, 
name, and appearance are filled up in most shocking letters without vowels, 
(points,) and finally closes with the Beirut seal, — a mere circular blot near 
the bottom, with the fact stated of its being "done at Beirut." On the left 
margin are two parallel columns containing items of " description/' giving 
your "complexion," "size," "beard," "mustache," and kicz or "eye," — by 
which it is seen that two-fifths of a man are made up of his beard and 
mustache. At the top and bottom is the Italian word "numero" in Turk- 
ish letters. All that is manuscript is written so rapidly and in such a 
detached state that it appears impossible that any but officials could 
decipher it. I obtained the aid of a resident of Constantinople, and, though 
well acquainted with the Turkish, he found some difficulty in deciphering 
it. The Turkish is in all respects, however, less difficult to learn than the 
Arabic and less subject to exceptional rules. The tezkirah is evidently 
a copy of the European passports. 



YOUNG LADIES' SEMINARY. 



99 



parthre, and at the advice of the missionaries, whose 
grounds we proposed this evening to visit. After con- 
siderable preparation at our hotel and some noisy words 
in Arabic, — without which no enterprise, however incon- 
siderable, is performed in these parts, — we set out, with 
a servant and a lantern preceding. With many painful 
apprehensions from the formidable prickly-pear- thorns 
threatening us in our night-walk through muddy, 
narrow, and slippery lanes scarce eight feet wide, over 
loose stones and with much fear lest we should leave 
some portions of our eyes upon these thorns, we ap- 
proached the mission-house, (the former residence of Kev. 
Eli Smith,) having two beautiful and tall cypresses, with 
other shrubbery, before the door. We visited the seminary 
near at hand, and, entering the parlor, found a number of 
young ladies and children sitting around or near a 
centre-table, sewing and embroidering little flower-pat- 
terns. It was the accomplished recreation of the 
evening, the day's regular pursuits being at an end. 
There were at this time about twenty females, pupils 
of the seminary, taken from various families, some 
of whom were able to support their daughters; yet all 
receive gratuitous education and boarding, they pro- 
viding their clothes. A number were sitting Orientally 
on the floor, — so far as we could guess, being inclined to 
think we have seen young ladies (not in mission-schools) 
sit so before company in Egypt. They learn to read 
and write the Arabic and the English correctly. A young 
miss of fourteen read an excellent composition in Arabic 
on the "Atonement." A composition in English of one 



100 



SYRIAN BEAUTY. 



of these young ladies which I examined was neatly, cor- 
rectly, and methodically written on the subject "Hope." 

The teacher, Dr. ■ , promised me a copy, — which 

promise he has not yet fulfilled. In the recitation- 
room I found diagrams on astronomy of the highest 
order, though not with modern discoveries, and some- 
what incorrect as to some other impressions, but which 
with a good instructor would, on the whole, be very 
satisfactory. In one room I noticed a seat for some 
of the girls, which was raised about five inches, and 
sufficiently broad for any Oriental predilections in the 
method of sitting, the desk being fifteen inches high. 

In review of all, the impression is most favorable. 
These young native girls are fine-looking, intelligent, 
docile, and gracefully dressed ; for, despite that awkward 
horn goading my memory, the native dresses of the 
higher classes are very rich, varied, and appropriate. 
I was not fully prepared to see so much of refinement 
mingled with the native nobility of appearance which 
unquestionably forms a feature of Syrian beauty. Some 
exceptions must be expected and placed to the score of 
their own ideas of propriety. It was only this morning 
that we were for a moment arrested in our admiration 
by the sight of a well-dressed Syrian lady riding after 
the manner of the gentlemen ; nor is this the only time 
in this land that we have seen females in a similar po- 
sition on horseback; and yet this lady was evidently a 
"famous" rider, — quite at ease, quite gentle, and of "the 
first families." But these young ladies have their primi- 
tive ideas evidently greatly benefited by instructions. 



SYRIAN NAMES. 



101 



They are graceful, of calm, open countenance, with 
an impress of most perfect self-possession, dark eyes, 
very little color, unless that may be called color which 
is such a combination of white and Oriental brunette 
as to be neither, and only imitable sometimes in paint- 
ing. Dr. De F., of the mission, described them as 
loving to write compositions, cheerful, quite as playful 
as the American girls and more orderly and submissive ; 
some rather inclined to deception, despite the counte- 
nance, which cannot always be read. Some of their 
names are singular, though musical, and, with the 
names of several boys added, they read thus : — Phefen, 
spelt Mefun, meaning Phebe; Khazmah, a Druze girl; 
Lulu, meaning a pearl; Khushfeh, a young lady from 
Mount Hermon, — her name means gazelle; Saada, 
(prosperous;) 1 Miriam, from Mt. Lebanon. The boys' 
names are such as Phares, (horseman,) and Hassan, a 
Druze boy; Eussalan and Shakir, (a thankful person,) 
both boys. Some drawings and writing of several of the 
young ladies were exhibited, some of which were decidedly 
artistic ; and one of the artists was from the wildest of 
the Lebanon ranges and tribes. Until lately, teaching 
young ladies was uncommon in Syria ; and it is gratify- 
ing to know that many send daughters to the schools 
who have hitherto utterly refused to do so. This we 
should judge was the High mission-school of Syria, and 

1 These young ladies since I visited the institute have been married, 
generally preferring Franks to natives ; and such preferences have been 
gratified in more than one instance. One has married lately a Syrian of 
excellence, in public office. I have had the pleasure of hearing from them 
lately (Sept. 1858.) 



102 



SCIENCE 



AND MISSIONS. 



deservedly the model school, as far as appertains to the 
education of females both as pupils of Christianity and 
of literature. 1 We may be able to account for the fact 
that some professed Christians take so little interest 
in foreign missions and that others would like to 
slander that which is so opposite to their own tastes 
and characters; yet we are surprised that some, whose 
acquaintance we cherish, as men of science and as phi- 
losophers, are so slow to appreciate the victories which 
these establishments are achieving in favor of science 
and civilization, even if no other object were attained. 
And yet several with whom we have travelled have 
spoken disparagingly of mission-operations from which 
they have acknowledged great aid in their examinations, 
not only from the missionaries directly, but from influ- 
ences which have penetrated many wild tribes and places 
even untrodden by the foot of the missionaries, and upon 
which influences these travellers have lived as upon a 
capital, without which they would have had to retire 
from their investigations. 

Before our arrival, there had been no rain for months ; 
and all, feeling the need, began to put up prayers, Mus- 
sulmen included, whose little prayer-flags, as I was 
told, waved quite freely from windows and posts ; and, 
as we have a deluge rather than a rain, our Moham- 
medan friends take all the credit. 

1 Many will rejoice to know that the school which was discontinued, 
amid many regrets, soon after the death of Dr. Smith, in the spring of 1857, 
is to be renewed under the care of two ladies from New England, who are 
expected to take charge of the seminary in the spring of the approaching 
year, (1859.) 



ARRANGING THE ROUTE. 



103 



Last night, after midnight, — one o'clock, — I noticed the 
thermometer stood at 54°, and this morning (Dec. 10) at 
eight o'clock it was still at 54°, the difference not being 
one-fifth of a degree. At twelve it was at 58°, and at six, 
54°, showing what slight variation there is in the tempera- 
ture. This we found to be the general result of all our 
observations, taken at the same place : the exceptions 
are few. Being reminded that the Feast of the Nativity 
took place at Bethlehem on Christmas Eve, at which 
time there is a better opportunity of seeing the people 
than at any other time, we immediately decided to leave 
for Jerusalem. Meeting our old friend Zadoc Levi, we 
were soon in conversation as to the best method of travel- 
ling to Jerusalem on a route suggested to us by our mis- 
sionary friends. We told him that our contemplated 
guide charged us six dollars a day for two, including 
every thing. "Auch!" said Father Levi, in his Ger- 
man dialect, in which he always spoke to us, at the 
same time putting his hand to his aged beard, and 
thence to his head, as if he had been seized with a 
violent neuralgia: "six dollars! six dollars !" 

"Well," said I, "what's to be done? We can't help 
the matter : we can't get any one else." 

" Yes, my friend will go for two dollars a day. Come 
with us." 

In a few minutes we were in the Jewish house, and, 
sitting on the divan, we entered into an inquiry. The 
man promised to take us, providing horses and food, 
which was to consist of cheese, bread, and eggs, a fish 
now and then, — perhaps some chicken,— water, &c. We 



104 CHOOSING A GUIDE. 

were to have all our baggage taken; he was to cook for 
us, and to travel every day save Saturday, — the Jewish 
Sabbath. 

" Ah ! there it is. We can't travel on Sunday, neither 
will you rest then." 

Yes, he would, and would wait for us ' at Jerusalem, 
and then return with us, as he lived here. 

Levi was to give us an answer at one o'clock whether 
he would accompany us or not : so we parted. " Verily," 
thought we, " this is the plan." Soon after we met our 
Arab friend Dahan, whom we called Hanna. We told him 
of the interview, and promised to decide at one o'clock, 
at which time he was to call. Now, Hanna is apparently 
as fine a fellow as ever wore Arab trousers, — genteel, 
dignified, obliging, intelligent, and j)atient, which last 
trait we afterward found existed in excess ; but we did 
not feel like losing him, and he was equally disinclined 
to lose us. 

At the time appointed both arrive. Hanna leaves . 
the room, after introducing our Jewish guest. Father 
Levi takes his tobacco, and, sitting down, commences, 
continues, ends; and the result is that neither Father 
Levi nor his friend are inclined to leave till Monday. 
Now, we must be in Jerusalem on the evening of the 24th, 
to attend the festival at Bethlehem, five miles beyond. If 
we go with them we must keep two Sabbaths, — which we 
could well afford to do, only that we must be in Bethle- 
hem at the festival ; and though we should like to travel 
with two Israelites in their land, yet we state the case 
and decline. The old man then bids us farewell, 



EASTERN SALUTATION. 



105 



heartily hoping to see us at Jerusalem, where I am to 
meet him at his house, upon which we exchanged the 
genuine Hebrew salutation, even now in use, " Peace be 
with you" 1 and parted to meet at Jerusalem. And 
now we depend upon Hanna, said to be a capital guide, 
well acquainted with the country and the Arabic, — his 
native language, — educated in English schools, recom- 
mended by the missionaries and the consul, and fur- 
nishing every thing to protect us and to make us 
comfortable. He is called in; and, after a little further 
bargaining, we write out the contract, to which he agrees. 
In our condition we say nothing of arms as protection 
against the wandering Arabs, he asserting that " there 
is no need, as the country is peaceful, and he had 
travelled with some one who had no use for them." 

v Very well : if you get slain, charge it to yourself, 
Hanna, and we will say nothing about it. But carry 
one gun, as we need it for shooting birds for examination 
and drawing." To which Hanna agrees, receives one 
thousand piastres for the outfit, and, giving a receipt 

1 Judges xix. 20; 2 Sam. xviii. 28. The former is "peace to you," the 
latter simply " Peace." The phrase used among the Hebrews in Palestine 
is almost precisely that of Ps. cxxii. 8: — " Shalom behdh," Peace be in you. 
The Turkish is men sabach auchar, — good morning ; or, meseek aucliar, good 
evening ; the oral proper, <: Salam alake," peace to you, or Salam alakoom, 
peace to you, (plural;) and the genuine familiar How d'ye do is " KipJid- 
lak" to which you may answer Teiyeeb, which, though simply meaning 
good or very well, seems to answer more to the ordinary and rather vulgar 
"first-rate/' heard in some places in our own land in answer to the same 
question. The author's knowledge of the colloquial Arabic is not sufficient 
to verify this ; but, having heard these terms frequently used in these 
senses, he has received impressions which lead him to think this correct. 
Above all, the Hebrew phrase seems most natural, in which we perceive 
the salutation of the past. 



106 



SUPERSTITIONS. 



with his name affixed in English, promises to sign the 
contract at the consul's office to-morrow ; and we dismiss 
him, to spend his last evening with his family, as we 
expect to need his services until next March. So 
we introduce Hanna as henceforth our dragoman or 
interpreter, the guide and head of our little troop. 

The next morning we intended to start, but we waited 
in vain for Hanna; and, as nothing could be heard of 
him or his preparations, we determined to look for 
him after breakfast. At the table we heard of a curious 
superstition said to exist among the Lebanon Syrians 
in reference to the native students in English schools. 
The English, it is thought, take a daguerreotype of the 
students coming from Syria ; and, when they return, if 
they change their religion and go back to the religion of 
their country, the picture becomes black, upon which the 
English stab the picture, and the man whose likeness 
it is drops dead, wherever he may be, walking, standing, 
or sitting. Another superstition is associated with the 
English shillings, which, it is supposed, if they are 
taken will be lost again, and the shilling be found in 
the purse of the Englishman. 

I took several bearings to-day from our hotel top, 
among which was one of a peak lying toward the 
southeast, pronounced Kennazi : it is very prominent, 1 
and is near the head of the Beirut River. 2 This peak forms 



1 Its magnetic bearing from the hotel top is S. 60° 15'. Spelt Kuneiyiseh 
on the map ; but I give the Arab pronunciation, simply because it is easier. 
Jebel Sunnim, N. 84° 15 / E. 

2 See the map. 



CCELE SYRIA. 



107 



a very important mark. It is the grand outpost at the 
foot of which the direct road running east from Beirut 
ushers the traveller into the great valley of the Biika'a. 1 
This valley, between the two ranges of Lebanon 
on the west and Anti Lebanon on the east, forms the 
ancient Ccele Syria, called in Greek code or hollow, 2 from 
its depression so much resembling a hollow between the 
two high ranges. Running northeast of this peak, it 
widens until at Baalbek, twenty-five miles E.N.E. from 
Kennazi, it attains its greatest width, — about sixteen 
miles. It contracts at a distance of thirty miles beyond 
Baalbek; and sixty miles northeast of Jebel Kennazi it 
becomes very narrow in that part where the two Leba- 
non ranges terminate. Thus Ccele Syria, between the 
mountains, presents somewhat the appearance of a flat 
canoe running to a point about twenty miles south 
of Kennazi, and there terminating in the Wady et 
Teim, at the foot of Mt. Hermon, (called Jebel esh 
Sheikh, or Mount of the Governor.) Mt. Hermon 
bears about 20° to the east of south from Beirut, 
though I could obtain no sight of a ridge from the 
hotel which could with certainty be recognised as that 
of Hermon; and my impressions are formed from an 
admirable position afterward gained in the interior, 
north of Lake Tiberias, compared with the bearing of a 
position visible from Beirut. Mt. Hermon is a ridge 
terminating somewhat abruptly on the southwest and 
running irregularly northeast, a careful drawing of which 



The word signifies " the valley." 



4 KocIoq. 



108 



VALLEY OF BACA. 



in its outline will be given on another page. At its base 
commence the rills which, fed from the melting snows 
of the mountain, run a little west of south about twenty 
miles and empty into the little lake of Huleh, the Bib- 
lical "waters of Merom" 1 from whose surface in after- 
time some fine ducks were obtained for our dinner. 
This little triangular lake, about three miles long, on 
its northern border is contracted to a southern angle 
pointing toward the Lake of Tiberias, from which it is 
about ten miles distant, and connected with it by the 
Jordan. Hence the true head-waters of the Jordan are 
to be found at the base of Hermon, which lies about 
S. 25° E. from our hotel. 2 

This valley of Buka'a is in the Arabic a different word 
from Baca, having a guttural third letter not in that word, 
with which it has sometimes been confounded, and which 
occurs in Psalms, 3 — "who passing through the valley of 
Baca make it a well," — where the signification is beauti- 
fully expressive of sorrow turned to joy. The word 
baca originally signified neither "weeping" nor "mul- 
berries," as has been supposed to be the meaning in 
this passage, but simply "'distilling in drops," just as 
the same form in the Arabic at present signifies. This 



1 Joshua xi. 5, 7. 

2 The beautifully-engraved map of the Hauran, by Mr. Porter, (Five 
Years in Damascus, London, 1855,) entirely omits Kuneiyiseh by name, 
and has run the ridge of Hermon too much to the north of east. The true 
course is about N. 70° E. On Robinson's map, by Kiepert, Berlin, 1857, 
it is more nearly correct than in any other, being N. 60° E. ; but Porter has 
it N. 40° E., — at least 27° too far north in the course of the ridge. 

3 Psalm lxxxiv. 6. 



CASTOR-OIL BEAN. 



109 



seems to be the radical meaning. 1 But the desolate 
spirit, distilling its sorrows out in tears, suggested to the 
Oriental imagination this term to describe "weeping;" 
and tears being the drops distilled from a sorrowing 
heart, they were adopted as a secondary meaning of 
Baca. The mulberry-tree when bruised or pierced 
always distils its sap out in drops, — a fact which is 
familiar to many. This would naturally suggest the 
idea of tears ; and hence the term would descriptively 
be given to the " mulberry-tree," as is the case in 2 Sam. 
v. 23, 24. 2 Thus the sentiment appears to be, " Happy 
are they who, passing through the humiliation where 
weeping abounds, yet can make sorrow a source of 
refreshment." The various meanings are doubtless all 
derivative from the original signification given above. 

In this valley of Buka'a the castor-oil bean is culti- 
vated • and I am told that, cold-pressed, the oil is used 
not only for burning, but also as an accompaniment with 
some kinds of vegetables. Some was presented to me 
at a little village to the south of this, — which I used 
upon my boots, never imagining that it was intended 
to be eaten. 

1 Fuerst. Concord. Vet. Test., Leips., 1840, and Gesenius, in loco, 

2 In the Psalter (Common Prayer) the translation "vale of misery" 
scarcely conveys the meaning, save as an inference. 



110 



BURYIXG-GROUND. 



CHAPTER V. 

ON THE WAT TO SIDON. 

In passing through the streets we found Hanna. 
He excused himself on the ground of not being able to 
furnish mules, but promised to get all things in travel- 
ling-order to-night and start to-morrow; and so we 
turned off to pay a last visit to the mission-grounds. 

Rev. Eli Smith informed us that when he came to 
Beirut, in 1826, the population, with the suburbs, was 
only 5000; but it had since increased, having 15,000 in 
1839, 1 and 30,000 in 1856. This includes the suburbs. 
In the* missionary burying-ground there were eight or 
nine little tombs of missionary children and one grave 
without a tomb, all lying side by side, and all of chil- 
dren under ten years of age. Lieutenant Dale also lay 
buried there. An attempt was made to remove his 
body; but, as it was about to be put on board, the French 
sailors made some superstitious opposition, and it was 
returned, and here it lies. 2 Here also is buried Lieu- 
tenant Molyneaux, of H.M.S. Sparta; died October 4, 
1847, aged 25. He died in Palestine, whilst prosecuting 
his researches. There are about one hundred graves, — 



1 Kinnear's Cairo, Petra, and Damascus, p. 241. 

2 The -wooden head-board contains his age, so miserably carved that no 
one could tell whether it was 56 or 36. 



SIGNS OF THE "WEATHER. 



Ill 



perhaps a few more; and this little yard of less than 
an acre is valued at two hundred and fifty dollars, 
being so near the city. 

At the ends of the arched piazzas netting was stretched 
over the opening to prevent bats from entering in the 
evening, as these creatures, not satisfied with ruined build- 
ings, become a source of great vexation to the inhabitants. 

Our friends, who have been long residents, informed us 
that we should have fair weather for our start on the 
morrow, as the wind was from the north, and at the 
present day, as in the time of Job, it invariably brought 
fair weather: so that the opinion exists even at present 
that " fair weather cometh from the north," 1 or, as it is 
in the original, "the golden weather comes from the 
north." And so we have found it come to pass that the 
clouds of the golden hue always followed upon a north 
wind and indicated a clear day, and, as in the times of 
the Savior, we could always say, when it was evening, 
" It will be fair weather, for the sky is red." 2 In this 
respect the meteorological facts are the same as they 
were two thousand years ago. 

After supper the young Syrian girls entered the parlor, 
and were soon engaged in their evening work of sewing 
and embroidering as before. They were remarkably 
agreeable, graceful, and sensible. After a short season 
of conversation w T e were invited down to prayer, which 
is always in Arabic, as the servants have a preference for 
their own language. The services occupied the earliest 
part of the evening, in anticipation of the drowsiness 



1 Job xxxvii. 22. 



2 Matt. xvi. 2. 



112 



AN EASTERN COSTUME. 



of the youngest of the circle, — a plan quite desirable in 
many families at home, where the signal for evening 
worship seems to be the utter inability of the greater 
portion to enjoy it, and where their worship may justly 
be described as the "fag-end of devotion." The greater 
part of the number were seated around a long table, with 
Dr. D. and Mrs. D. at the head and foot. All read in 
Turkish a portion of Scripture, from the old Arabic ser- 
vant in turban and Turkish trousers to the smallest in 
the circle, and, after a few words from Dr. B., they were 
led in prayer, nearly all kneeling. One of the young ladies 
at the table wore what appeared to be, in the light of the 
candles, a scarlet velvet cap, something similar in style to 
that worn by "the young Bethlehemite" opposite the title- 
page of this work, though smaller and plainer, and around 
the lower border of which was bound a scarf of white 
silk figured with colored flowers. She had on a bodice of 
purple or dark-blue velvet, trimmed along the edges of 
the partly-open front with a rich pattern of black gimp, 
and within this little encasement was a delicate "barri- 
cade" of filagree-work apparently of lace. The remaining 
dress, or skirt, was of a dark brown, but more in accord- 
ance with English than Oriental style, from which we 
supposed that the seminary rules suggest some alteration 
and the tailoresses obey. 

In addition to the above dress, the generality appear 
in a sash or girdle around the waist, some of which are 
very handsome and costly and arranged with care. 
This young girl — probably seventeen — had dark eyes, 
eyelashes, and hair, (the latter came down in waving 



YOUNG HASSAN. 



113 



tresses over her shoulders;) and she sat there, with a 
fine forehead and womanly expression, and with such 
intelligent self-reliance upon her features, not an excep- 
tion to, but a fair specimen of, her race. (The name of 
the young lady above described was Lulu, — in Arabic, 
"the. pearl.") Children not older than seven read 
fluently in the Arabic version of the Testament, exhibit- 
ing an accomplishment which all have acquired under 
missionary tuition. In the after-employments and 
amusements of the evening they exhibited a lively 
interest; and we had the pleasure of joining them in 
singing, to one of their Arabic hymns, a tune well 
known at home. They seemed interested to know 
that in America there was a similarity to their cus- 
toms and accomplishments even in song, and were 
much pleased that they could hold a promised corres- 
pondence with us. 

A suggestive little incident was communicated to me 
by Dr. D. as occurring in connection with a school for 
boys established some time since by Mr. C. in this region. 
The boys were invited by the Principals to present, 
after the holiday, a composition written on the manner 
in which it had been spent. A young lad of good family, 
Hassan by name, brought in substance the following 
narrative. Finding the vacation of an uncomfortable 
length to be spent at home, he determined on a visit to 
the mountains (of Lebanon) to the family of a sheik, 
to whom he was connected by relationship. The sheik 
received him in court with much attention, and com- 
menced inquiries as to the missionary school. 

8 



114 



THE LITTLE MISSIONARY. 



" My son, what do those men teach you at that 
Christian school?" 

"Oh, why, I learn philosophy and arithmetic and 
English, &c." 

" Yes, yes ; but what religion do they teach you ? 
What does Mr. C. teach you? for I hear they teach 
religion." 

" Why, he teaches us to love and obey God, and that 
Jesus Christ is his Son and came into the world to 
save sinners." 

"And what about Mary? Don't they have pic- 
tures?" 

"He thinks there is such a one, in truth, as the 
Virgin Mary; but he don't worship her, nor does he 
have any pictures in the chapel, or any thing of that 
kind. Nor does he pray to saints: they cant do any 
thing." 

Now, while Hassan was thus talking, the Greek 
Catholics and Maronites were there also in the same 
room paying a visit to the sheik; and they, taking 
affront at Hassan's speech as irreverent to their gods, 
were about to depart. But the sheik invited them 
to sit, remarking that they " might as well hear it 
through" And thus they had to remain and hear the 
sermon which Hassan, although a child in age and 
divinity, was nevertheless thus adroitly preaching 
against errors in a place to which the missionaries 
themselves had no access. Thus the diffusive power 
of good is exhibiting itself every year over this country 



SWEARING COMMON. 



115 



through numerous channels scarcely ever recognised or 
appreciated save in the aggregate result. 

After leaving, we passed through the dark, narrow 
lanes, made darker by the overhanging prickly-pear, 
rising from the walls several feet overhead, and yet 
occasionally protruding a leaf armed with its thorns 
almost into our faces. It bears a fruit somewhat 
in shape like the banana, though red and smaller, 
appearing after a bright yellow blossom; and the Arab 
will sit down in the market, swallow a dozen or two as 
if they were oysters, and then, as if mindful of the 
safety with which he has passed the peril of strangu- 
lation, exclaim, as he rises, " El ham du Allah !" 
(Praise be to God!) and sail off as if he had only 
taken in a freight of two ounces' weight. 1 This habit 
of using the name of Allah is almost universal, even on 
the most trifling occasions; and though expecting it 
from what I had previously heard, yet I did not imagine 
the extent to which it prevailed. The habit is hy no 
means modern : it can be distinctly traced for centuries 
back, not only in blessing, but in cursing. Amurath, 
the sixth king of the Turks, having been most decidedly 
beaten by the Christians at the siege of Belgrade, and 
perceiving that his army would be utterly helpless before 
another attack, invited the ambassadors of the Christians 



1 This habit is noticed by Kinnear, p. 302, who says that the large amount 
of fruit eaten raw is surprising, such as the Jcooseh, a small pumpkin, three 
inches long, the bumiyeh, the pod of the hibiscus, and the badingan, the 
fruit of the egg-plant, each good when cooked. Yet we have eaten the 
prickly-pear and have seen it eaten where neither of the others were known. 



116 



CAUSE FOR THE SAVIOR'S INJUNCTION. 



into his camp, and, with a hypocritical pretence of 
power and a blasphemous assertion, threatened, if they 
did not yield, to retire to his home and return again, 
bringing God himself with him not only as a spectator of 
his valor, but as an aid to him in his vengeance. 1 This 
was in a.d. 1443; and before and since, this country 
seems to have been a place where the sacred name 
and titles of God are freely used on any occasion of 
pleasure or of madness. It has not been altogether 
confined to Mohammedans; for as far back as the 
seventh century, during the siege of Csesarea under 
Amru, a Christian spy, rising from a camp-fire in the 
Moslem army, trod on his own robe and stumbled, at 
the same moment expressing his vexation in an oath, 
"by Christ!" He was thus immediately discovered 
to be a Christian and a spy, and was cut to pieces by 
the Mohammedan soldiers around him. 2 It is reasonable 
to suppose that in the time of the Savior swearing was 
just as common as in after-times; and hence the appro- 
priate injunctions in various passages against immode- 
rate and irrelevant swearing. 3 

In the morning Hanna appeared with the news that 
the mules and horses were ready; and nothing but the 
packing of baggage prevented our departure. So, 



1 Knolles's History of the Turks, p. 266. 

2 Ockley and D'Herbelot,- quoted by Irving, " Mahomet and his Suc- 
cessors," p. 193. 

3 Matt. xxvi. 74. Peter's " cursing and swearing" is a proof of its preva- 
lence. The commands are contained in Matt. v. 34, James v. 12, and 
other places. 



OUR DEPARTURE. 117 

Providence permitting, we reach Sidon to-night. From 
the balcony we perceive seven or eight mules and 
horses, and a little company helping to pack and in- 
creasing the noise and bustle, without which not even a 
funeral in this country can be "performed." After 
having been roused at six o'clock or before, and our 
toilet made in the utmost haste, with the expecta- 
tion of immediate departure, hope is deferred until 
twelve minutes after nine, when we leave the yard 
duly mounted, my friend and myself, with a new and 
very incomprehensible companion, purporting to be an 
Italian, and Hanna with Nicolo, — the same Nicolo 
who was our cook at quarantine. Some of the Arabs 
are in advance, and some follow with the baggage, con- 
sisting of tents, tables, chairs, "kitchen," and a little 
shopful of crockery, carpet-bags, and other minor 
bodies, the names of which came to light only after 
days and weeks of travel. Our Italian friend speaks a 
poor Italian, a few words of French, and a strange- 
sounding Arabic. He has come from Egypt, where he 
has been engaged in some trade for years, which we 
learn from some fragments of French on his part and 
what must appear to him as wrecks of Italian on ours, 
accompanied by smiles and signs. He is armed with a 
double-barrelled gun, two pistols, and what else I know 
not; but the rest of us have nothing but the handles to our 
fists to fight with in case there should be occasion for any 
such excitement. Passing beyond the suburbs, we cross 
the red sand-hill on the right of the view of Beirut, which 
we were told was travelling at the rate of several feet 



118 



FIRST GROVE. 



per annum toward the sea, being blown thus by the 
winds. Sometimes the air is so filled with the particles 
as to obscure the sea-view; and thus, little by little, it 
is marching along. 1 The track runs southeast by east, 
and appears like an ordinary road, forty feet in width, 
well trodden by mules and camels. On our left are 
the mountains of Lebanon ; and, in less than an hour's 
walking from the town, we see near the base of the 
mountains a little pine grove, composed of young trees 
which have branches like those of the apple-tree, with 
pine-leaves, or "tags," and generally from fourteen to 
fifteen feet in height. The grove is apparently only a 
few hundred feet in length, called " Hursh Beirut," 
and is said to have been planted by Fakir ed Din, of 
whom we have before spoken. Yet extensive pine 
forests are said to have existed here, running up to the 
mountains, in the twelfth century, nearly five hundred 
years before the time of Fakir ed Din. 2 At a little 
more than an hour's ride, or rather walk, — about two 
miles and three-quarters, — from our hotel, the scenery 
appears as in the view on the next page. 

At the little house, or khan, twelve or fourteen feet 
high, our road closes up into a mere horse-path, and 
on the right we have a distant view of the Mediter- 



1 Dr. Robinson speaks of the encroaching of the sands upon the land 
south of this ; but the wind that would drive the sand in at a point miles 
below would have the effect to force the sand out at this point above, from 
the curve of the coast. The inhabitants appear to be of the same opinion, 
that the hill is moving to the sea at this point. — Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 435. 

2 El Edrisi Geog. Univ., Paris, 1836, 4to, p. 355. Rob. Bibl. Res., vol. 
iii. p. 436. 



CAMELS EATING THE THORN. 119 




VIEW SOUTH OF BEIRUT. 

ranean. Here we make way for two camels. They 
deliberately bite into the leaves of the prickly-pear, 
and crush them in their mouths as though the thorny 
fruit was bread, caring as little for the terrible thorns 
as for the wind. I shuddered when I saw the frag- 
ments moving up and down in their mouths. A little 
after an hour's ride from Beirut, 1 the blue streak of the 
Mediterranean could be seen in a direction south-south- 
west; and in about half an hour we turn suddenly to the 
right, meeting the first olive-grove, of fourteen trees, 
near a little stream four or five inches deep and about 
three feet wide. This is our first rivulet; and, though 
dry in summer, it nevertheless bears a name just 
here quite common, pronounced Shwayfert, though 



1 Which we lost sight of fifty-five minutes after leaving the hotel. 



120 



MEANING OF LEBANON. 



spelt Shuweifat on the map; the same name is 
given to the valley down which the rivulet runs, and 
to a village huilt on two ridges of the flank of Lebanon, 
nearly due east of us, and to the grove at the base of 
Lebanon, which is the largest olive-grove in Syria, 
nearly four miles long, so thickly planted that no ground 
can be seen between the trees at this distance. The 
pine and the olive are thus far the only trees 
which we have met, excepting a few of the singular 
kind of oak which we first saw in Beirut, and which 
averages in height about sixteen feet. It is an ever- 
green, bears leaves both broad and narrow on the 
same tree, the latter, when young, armed with small 
thorns, and the tree bearing an acorn of size and 
appearance as annexed. 1 



The Lebanon flanks generally present a gray appear- 
ance, from the want of verdure, and perhaps from the na- 
ture of the basis-rock, which is light-colored limestone; 
and hence, most probably, its title " Lebanon," "white," 
or " gray," is derived, more from the natural color than 
from the snows, which exist even in summer, and are 
brought to Damascus and other places to cool the wine and 
more necessary articles of diet; and, though the ther- 

1 Quercus Gallica, — called "ruffle-cup" acorn by the Franks. 





BIRDS OF PALESTINE , From nature by Prof.H.S.Osbon 



OLEANDERS. 



121 



mometer to-day at twenty minutes past eleven stands 
at 72° in the sun, the snow is quite apparent on some 
ridges of the mountains, though scarcely so general as 
to give a name to so large a range, by far the largest 
proportion of which presents the gray appearance, but 
no snow, though this is December. We now approach 
the sea-shore. The soil heretofore has been of a red- 
dish cast and sandy, but the late rain has somewhat 
hardened it, and the road is firm ; and, though the rays of 
the sun are unusually warm, yet every thing in landscape 
and sky, and in the long lines of curling surf breaking 
in so uniformly beautiful upon the smooth shore, and 
in the pleasant breeze waving the oleanders and shrub- 
bery, even now in bloom, by your side, makes up such a 
perfect whole in its fragrance and beauty that it seems 
created for unalloyed enjoyment. 

Near the ford of the little rivulet we passed our first 
water-course, — the Arabic "wady." Such a course, 
or wady, is known by an immense number of small 
round stones, generally gray, six or seven inches in 
diameter, lying in the course the water takes when 
the channel is full. At some places they remind us of 
the stones piled up in our city streets preparatory to 
paving, and are entirely clear of soil. We now approach 
the first rocky parts of our way, meeting the oleander 
in bloom and wildly struggling for a place among 
rocks and sands. 1 Here we meet with the "mullen" 

1 The Nerium grows in abundance by the water-brooks in Palestine, and is 
supposed by Hasselquist to be referred to by David, (Ps. i. 3.) — Phys. Hist. 
Palestine, Kitto, p. 270. 



122 



PLANTS AND BIRDS. 



and the " ittel" of Egypt, or the tamarisk, a drawing 
of which appears in the colored plate of birds, accu- 
rately taken from portions of a plant brought home by 
myself. 1 The cane grows by the water-courses. We 
have also passed a species of myrtle. 2 To-day, on see- 
ing a flock of our old acquaintances, the crows, fly 
over us, I inquired of several Arabs their name, to 
which they answered, " Gnaw," with the strange gut- 
tural gn. This is the root-form of the very word 
"ravens" in the history of Elijah and the ravens, de- 
scribed in 1 Kings xvii., and of which we shall speak 
when we get to the brook Cherith. At the first winter- 
torrent we passed I heard the well-known quick and rest- 
less chirp of the wren; and, though I searched for the 
little fellow, he could not be found. 3 That little wordless 
song spoke of the music of a distant home more effectually 
than words themselves. At twenty-five minutes past 
eleven we pass another winter-torrent-bed, which is dry. 
And now the hills and country change to a scene of bar- 
renness. The intruding spur of the mountains hides 
what is passed; no forests are to be seen, and very few 
trees or shrubs, scattered here and there amid broken, 
contorted, corroded, gray and black rocks, presenting 

1 1 strongly suspect this to be the Tamarix Orientalis of Forskal, Flora 
Egyptiaco-Arabica, p. 206, Lin., edit. 13. It only differs in size from the 
Tamarix Gallica, and seems the same leaf as that seen in Egypt and 
called atU by Sonnini, vol. ii. p. 4. There is, besides, a Tamarix AJricana, 
to which Dr. Durand of Philadelphia is inclined to refer the variety in my 
collection. The common name with the Arabs is " toorfa," sometimes 
"asul." I do not know that the T. Gallica is found in Palestine. 

2 Myrtus communis, Lin. 

s Motacilla troglodytis. 



PLOUGHS. 



123 



in places the appearance of the scathed and blighted 
region of Naples near Vesuvius. Some husbandmen, 
with pairs of heifers, are trying to scratch the rocky 
soil to plant some grain; but behind the plough it 
looks as if they had only been distributing more 
generally the loose stones, so little soil appears. Yet 
upon the shore the billows roll in, presenting a scene of 
mingled beauty and magnificence, the water rising up 
on a line of one or two hundred feet, ascending higher 
and higher till, very translucent, it breaks over in a long 
snow-white crest, making every moment's vision more 
inviting than the former. Presently we came upon 
the broken rocks, whose corrosion is so peculiar that in 
many places they strongly resemble broken walls and 
dismantled fortresses, so regular are some of the fis- 
sures. At five minutes after twelve we cross another 
dry winter-torrent-bed; and there are men ploughing 
with one-handled ploughs and two heifers, holding the 
handle with the right hand and the cord with the 
left. These ploughs seem to depend for their shape 
upon the fact that the trees furnish ploughs ready 
grown, with very little altering, requiring only the 
addition of an iron shoe, a drawing of which I intend 
to obtain. We now arrived at the ruins of a square 
tower overhanging the sea, and appearing as in the 
view on the next page. Its distance from Beirut is 
about seven miles, and its size about eighteen feet square. 
Our guides' traditional history would have associated it 
with the times of St. Helena, fifteen centuries ago, if 
certain marks had not shown a more modern origin. 



124 



a child's politeness. 




RUINED COAsT-TOWEt.. 



It was probably a watch-tower, intended for protection, 
and possibly (as was asserted) for communications along 
the coast. The stones were hewn, well formed, and the 
position commanding. We shall probably find others. 
Soon afterward we met an Arab family, in which was 
an old lady carrying a little fellow on horseback before 
her, who, though only ten years old, exhibited con- 
siderable grace in his salute, putting his hand upon his 
breast and then to his face, as he pronounced the 
Arabic "Salaam." The act was prettily done and 
with evident kindness, and it was so unusual and so 
graceful that we were silently astonished. In his 
movement he exposed a bleeding hand, when I found 
on inquiry that, having insulted a camel, the re- 
vengeful animal had savagely bitten him; and for 
this reason the old lady had him under her 



CAMEL AXD DROMEDARY. 



125 



care. This brings to mind what I have elsewhere 
known and heard of this animal, which travellers 
frequently describe, but in such contradictory state- 
ments. Facts seem to indicate that the camel — which 
we shall now meet with frequently — is by no means 
the patient, meek-faced, long-enduring animal that 
travellers so often assert. It is certainly most in- 
dispensable in many parts, not only south, but even in 
the deserts east of us, as between Damascus and Bag- 
dad. Camels have travelled the whole route between 
the last two places, which requires twenty-five days, 
allaying their thirst only by eating such roots and herb- 
age as they found on the way, without any water. In 
this region their average time of abstinence is from four 
to five days, varying according to the character of the 
animal and also according to the country in which they 
have been born. The names camel and dromedary are 
merely descriptive of the same animal, the former 
being used for loads; and, in the effort of Lieut. Lynch 
to get his boats from the sea-shore to the Lake of 
Galilee, he used them successfully for draught. 1 An 
Arab finds that a young camel bids fair to be light and 

1 " There seemed to be no alternative but to take the boats apart and 
transport them in sections to the Sea of Galilee, unless camels could be 
made to draw in harness; and I determined to try the experiment. It was 
tried, and proved successful; and our hearts throbbed with gratitude as the 
huge animals, three to each, marched off with the trucks, the boats upon 
them, with perfect ease. The first attempt to substitute camels for draught- 
horses was a novel sight, witnessed by an eager crowd of people. The suc- 
cessful result taught them the existence of an unknown accomplishment in 
that patient and powerful animal which they had before thought fit only 
to plod along with its heavy load upon its back." — Lynch, Off. Rep. of U. S. 
Exped. to the Dead Sea, p. 12. 



126 



USE OF THE HUMP. 



handsome, and he trains it for a "swift dromedary," 
or for the race, as the syllable " drom" 1 signifies, and the 
clumsy or strong of the breed become the camels or 
burden-carriers. The two-humped camel is seldom 
seen either here or in Egypt. We have noticed but 
two in Egypt or Syria, though camels in great numbers 
have passed us in the last two months, in places perhaps 
five hundred miles apart. They seem to be a distinct 
variety, and belong to the distant North of Syria, and, 
though sometimes seen here, are perhaps only brought 
by wandering tradesmen or by pilgrims. The state of 
this hump is with the Arabs a sign of the health of 
the camel and of his ability to endure a journey; for 
under starvation it seems to supply the want of food 
by a singular absorption into the animal, as if the latter 
caried its meat on its back as well as a supply of water 
in the stomach, both provided with a strange design,- — 
to enable it to endure long travel and hard fare. This 
is spoken of by Burckharclt the traveller, who de- 
scribes the camel; and the Arabs corroborate his state- 
ment both in Egypt and Syria, — though some have 
thought 2 that the hump suffers first; yet from the 
anatomy of this hump, as well as from inquiry, the re- 
verse appears to be the case. Generally speaking, in the 
caravans I have noticed that one camel follows another 
led on by a cord in the hand of some one on the back 
of the preceding camel, though in the deserts one camel 
is merely fastened to the tail of another. In some cases 

1 Greek, dpo/iog. 

2 Lieut. Wellstead. See Phys. Hist, of Palestine, Kitto, p. 387. 



BURDENS OF CAMELS. 



127 



of attack by the Bedouins, they have been brought to- 
gether so as to form a fortress with their bodies, while 
their masters fired from between them, they seldom 
c stirring even though struck by the spears of the an- 
tagonists. 1 We have seen two long beams of wood car- 
ried by a camel over rough ground, each of which mea- 
sured twenty feet in length and nearly eleven inches 
in diameter, and could not have weighed less than 
two hundred pounds. At another time we have seen 
thirty large stones upon the sides and back of a camel, 
which must have averaged from eighteen to twenty 
pounds, making about six hundred pounds, and the 
camel's pace, which we measured carefully, averaged 
forty inches, or over a yard, going about ninety steps 
in a minute. We judged that its progress in a walk 
under this load could not have been more than three 
and a half miles an hour. Yet some make better time 
on rougher ground, carrying burdens of from three to 
four hundred pounds at the rate of five or six miles, 
on a gait faster than a walk, and under the urging cry 
of "yallah!" "yallah!" ("go on!") of the drivers. On 
the other hand, the dromedary with its rider as its only 
burden will keep up eight and nine miles an hour for 
twenty hours in succession, in which alone lies its supe- 
riority to the horse; and I am assured by some that, for 
the short space of an hour on good ground, (for it does not 
prefer the sand,) it will reach the rate of fifteen miles or 
even more, — though Burckhardt says that twelve miles 



See an instance described in Porter's Five Years in Damascus, vol. ii. p. 27. 



128 



SPEED OF THE DROMEDARY. 



an hour is the most rapid travel that the swiftest race- 
dromedary can perform. Much that has been said by 
travellers of the swiftness of the dromedaries is doubtless 
incorrect 7 although unnecessary to establish the cha- • 
racier of the animal, as the singularly u swift dromedary" 1 

Camels sell at prices ranging from nine to forty or fifty 
dollars. I was offered one for nine dollars, but was told 
that he was in his dotage and not able to carry much. A 
dromedary, however, of a pretty light gray shade and very 
smart, neat in the limbs, long in its " bodily fulness," 
with a fat hump and wide neck at the shoulders, and a 
prominent dark and bright eye, is the beau-ideal of an 
Arab's thoughts. Such a figure you must imagine when 
you hear of "the camels of Oman;" and though Burck- 
hardt states that as high as three hundred dollars' 2 had 
been given for an Oman camel, yet at present eighty 
dollars would purchase perhaps as good a specimen as 
you would wish to see, unless the animal has become 
a pet: then perhaps one hundred and fifty dollars will 
scarcely purchase it. 

Although many advantages and excellencies are to 
be found in the camel, they very frequently exhibit a 
more complaining, revengeful, and malicious spirit than 
the horse, and sometimes are as contrary and stub- 
born as a mule, refusing to pass under an arch or gate 
even into a town to rest; and, as if accustomed to 

1 Such exaggeration, for example, as that "the Arabs affirm that he 
would run over as much ground in one day as their fleetest horses can per- 
form in eight or ten." See Buffon, Hist. Natural., tome xi. p. 222, and 
Shaw's travels, p. 167, quoted in Gibbon's Rome, vol. i. 115. 

2 Phys. Hist, of Palestine. 



SARCOPHAGI. 



129 



the Arab jelling, swearing, and pushing, they will 
become just as calm and meek-facedly mulish as though 
but a song were sung and they were to wait respectfully 
till it was ended. At times it expresses its vexation 
only by a guttural sound; but at others it will ferociously 
attack even its master, for whom it never forms much 
attachment, or it will bite at a fellow-camel's ears and 
face as an illustration of its temper and as a specimen of 
the act it would be guilty of if its driver's face were in 
the same position. 1 This is what we may expect to see 
illustrated even in Palestine, though Arabia is the land 
of the camel, from which it is brought into Egypt and 
Syria. 

About three hours' ride from Beirut we find evi- 
dences of hewn tombs on both sides of the road, 
not long before we come to a small rough khan called 
Khulda. Nearer the mountains they become more 
evident, as long deep-cut sarcophagi. Most of those 
we saw were perfectly plain, yet some are sculp- 
tured. Travellers speak of wreaths and of palm- 
leaves 2 carved on the sides and lids, with strange 
letters; and though M. de Saulcy, who had visited the 
place some time before us, discovered no whole tombs 
here, yet not far off we found some mules, with heads 



^hys. Hist, of Palestine, Kitto, where, as in Bochart's Hierozoicon, 
much very truthful matter maybe obtained both in the, history and the 
etymology. Bochart derives the name from the Hebrew /Oil' gemel, sig- 
nifying to revenge or to be spiteful ; and its character justifies the defini- 
tion. 

2 Wilson, vol. ii. p. 210. 9 



130 TOMBS IN THE ROCK. 

drooping, as if meditating upon fallen greatness, 
over a massive, well-preserved sarcophagus of some 
proud nobleman, now used as a watering or feed 
trough. Some distance off the road, and in the lime- 
stone cliffs, are hewn tombs, and the fragments which 
lie around must have been all cut from the hills, some 
still remaining apparently in their earliest position, 
as if they never had been disturbed. M. de Saulcy 
mentions a Greek funeral-inscription with nothing 
legible but "Juliana." Southward, across a torrent 
bridged by a single rock, the sarcophagi are as nume- 
rous as at Khulda: one represented a winged genius 
with a full-faced bust on either side. 1 Many of the 
ruins of these tombs appear as if some one had in- 
tentionally torn them from their original places from 
curiosity or in search of treasure; and some have 
even supposed the place to be the site of a Phoe- 
nician city, 2 or perhaps the place whence the tombs 
for Beirut were quarried. There is an itinerary writ- 
ten a.d. 333, in which a town by the name of Heldua 
is said to be twelve Roman miles from Beirut ; and it is 
supposed that this is the place, misstated as to dis- 
tance. 3 

At a quarter before one o'clock, we cross another 
dry wady, and at one o'clock a convent on the sides of 
the Lebanon spurs, — a building apparently one story 
in height, with one or two plain and nearly square 



1 M. De Saulcy, i. 30. 2 Wilson, vol. ii. p. 210. 

3 Robinson's Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 435 ; Itin. Hieros., p. 583, Wessel. 
edition. 



RIVER DAMUR. 



131 



windows, the whole with a lonely and forbidding appear- 
ance; yet often these houses furnish accommodations to 
the traveller when all other resorts would fail him. This 
convent we think we have seen before from a vessel 
some distance at sea. At twenty-four minutes of 
two o'clock we pass another water-course, wet, but 
running, showing with others how many streams come 
down from the mountains; but at two o'clock we 
arrive at the largest stream we have met, though it is 
at the ford only two feet deep and twenty wide. 

This is Nahr Damur, which has been identified with 
the ancient Tamyras of Strabo, 1 called also anciently 
Damouras. 2 The T and Y, being changeable into D 
and U, would still show some remains of Damouras or 
Tamyras in the present Damur. There is a bridge 
just above us with arches, the middle broken, which 
Maundrell supposed that the Arabs destroyed for the 
purpose of making travellers pay for directing them 
to the ford below. It is more plausibly supposed by 
some that the violence of the freshets had destroyed 
the bridge, which appears as if it had been frequently 
repaired; yet it might be objected that since Maun- 
drell, who saw it more than one hundred and fifty years 
ago, describes it as ruined to about the same extent as 
at present, it is rather singular that so many years of 
floods should have injured it no more, if this flooding 
was the original cause of its ruin; and especially might 

1 Strabo, lib. xvi. p. 756 ; Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 433 ; also Wilson's Bible 
Lands, vol. ii. p. 210. 

2 Polyb. lib. vi. 68, and in English translated Damerne. 



132 



MOUNTAIN-PALACE, 



this be said, as the Jisr el Kady 1 , about eleven miles up 
this stream, safely passes the traveller from Deir el 
Kamr (a town at the same distance east of us) to 
Beirut. Still, as we have said, the bridge seems to 
have been repeatedly rebuilt. Nearly all of the bridges 
are broken on the rivers, near the coast; and the Damur 
ramifies wonderfully, receiving all the waters for a 
distance of twenty miles in the mountains, and some- 
times when passable above is perfectly impassable at 
this place because of the sudden floods, w T hich once 
carried a traveller, as described by Maundrell, down its 
current, to his destruction. Our Arabs drank heartily 
of the water, using their hands with all the facility of 
bowls. About eight miles due east of us, and a mile 
and a half southeast of the village Deir el Kamr, 2 is a 
celebrated palace of an emir, Beshir, governor of the 
Druzes in the time of Mohammed Ali. It is a mag- 
nificent building, though built up in the wild gorges 
of the mountains, and can be seen from several 
positions at a distance from the spot itself, which is 
called Bteddin, or Beit ed Din. 3 

1 The river here is called Nahr el Kady, at the bridge, just above where 
it forks ; and there are several branches south. 

2 This Deir el Kamr is the capital of Lebanon, and contains about eight 
thousand inhabitants, mostly Christian, and one-sixth Druzes, and a few 
Jews, who call the Druzes Philistines, because of their extortions. The 
place was once made a scene of bloodshed, — a partridge, which a Christian 
shot on ground belonging to a company of Druzes, afforded the occasion^ to ex- 
hibit the hereditary hatred between the Christians, Maronites, and Druzes. 
— Correspondence of Colonel Rose, 1841, consul ; Wilson, vol. ii. p. 195. 

3 Wilson's Bible Lands, vol. ii. p. 196. Though Dr. Robinson, in Bibb 
Res., considers the word an abbreviation of Beit et din, others in this 
region derive it from an Arabic word significant of the double knots or 
peaks of the general site on which the castle stands. 



BATTLE ON THE PASS. 



133 



Having easily forded the Damur, we ride on, taking 
at twenty-two minutes past two o'clock a short cut up 
hill, so exceedingly rough that we can scarcely con- 
ceive of a passable road more rocky, ruinous, and ha- 
zardous on horseback than this. Yet my little slow- 
gaited animal passed up, and along this promontory 
overhanging the sea on our right, without once slipping, 
— showing how sure-footed the Arab horses are. On 
the brow our path is southwest by west ; and at twenty 
minutes before three o'clock we pass another ruined 
tower like the one previously described, the object 
being very probably to defend this pass, w r hich seems 
to have been a notable place as far back as 218 B.C., 
when a terrific battle was fought here between Antiochus 
the Great and the army of Ptolemy. The general of 
the latter marched his Egyptians to meet Antiochus, 
who had encamped at the river we have just passed; but, 
Antiochus sending a part of his troops in advance, they 
scaled the heights and engaged the troops on this rocky, 
fearful pass, while others attacked them in front and by 
sea. Two thousand Egyptians reddened these rocks and 
waves with their life-blood; many were taken captive, 
and some escaped to Sidon; and Antiochus passed on 
to the south to a victory at Mount Tabor. 1 Platinum 
is supposed to have been on or near this pass, and was 
the place of the defeat referred to, and the same as the 
village Platina, w r here Herod kept his two sons confined 
w T hile they were condemned unheard at Beirut. From 



1 Polybius, Hist. v. 68, 69 ; Robinson, iii. 433. 



134 



SINGULAR VEGETATION. 



this place they were removed to Tyre, and afterward to 
Sebaste, (Samaria,) and strangled. 1 

Our course is now south. At three o'clock we meet 
bushes in abundance, with a singular inclination toward 
the sea, as represented in the following sketch. The 
soil around is sandy; and the lively green of the 
bushes is therefore in more remarkable contrast with 
the white sand of the shore. 




STRANGE VEGETATION. 



They appear as if trimmed and smoothed over in- 
tentionally, vegetating compactly and beautifully out- 
side, leafless within, with no buds or blossoms, some- 
what resembling the box, but of a larger leaf, ap- 



1 Joseph. Antiq. xvi. xi. 287. 



TOP OF THE WELLS. 



135 



parently an evergreen, and affording comfortable little 
retreats for birds and hares. Their inclination toward 
the sea may probably be due to the moisture attracting 
them in that direction. At twenty minutes past three 
o'clock we pass the first conglomerate rock, resembling 
mortar and small stones mixed with shells, and then 
a broken shaft, (a mile-stone of Eoman times,) and on 
either side detached stones in order for one hundred 
feet or more, showing the remains of an ancient road. 
At present it is a specimen of the rudest possible 
way of making a road. Some of the stones, being 
sharp on the upper parts, present a most terrible path- 
way to the soft foot of the camel, fifteen or sixteen of 
which we have already seen passing this way to-day. 
At twenty minutes after three o'clock we pass a well 
somewhat similar to one passed a few minutes since; 
but this is the most perfect one we have seen. It is 
nineteen feet deep to the water, with an opening two 
feet square, around which is a circular mass of stone- 
work with several holes hewn out, affording drinking- 
troughs. It is ten feet across and presents the following 
appearance. The material is of rock, — the same which 
forms the hills of the surrounding country, namely, a 
soft yellow limestone. 



136 



SYRIAN COFFEE. 



The modern Syrians would never form such a well; 
and it probably has been a source of supply for many 
years. In twenty minutes we stop to lunch at the khan 
of the Prophet Jonah, (Nely Yunas.) Here we received 
a cup of coffee, in a Syrian coffee-cup, which is similar 
to the Egyptian, and holds about four tablespoonfuls, 
or a gill, of a black and thick mixture, — one cup 
having enough substance in it to make a large cup of 
coffee ordinarily prepared at home or in Paris. The 
cup is presented in a socket of metal, out of which we 
received it as if from a waiter, the cook never touching 
the cup with his own hands. It is represented very cor- 
rectly in the following sketch, the height of the cup 
being just twice the length of the sketch. 




SYRIAN CUP. 



Had we not previously seen the mixture prepared, 
we should never have suspected it of being akin to 
coffee ; and it reminded us forcibly of Lord Bacon's 
quaint description: — "They have in Turkey a drink 
called coffee, made of a berry of the same name, as 
black as soot, and of a strong sent [scent,] but not 
dramatical, which they take, beaten into powder, in 
water as hot as they can drink it. And they take it 



NELY YUN AS. 



137 



and sit at it in their coffee-houses, which are like our 
taverns. This Drink comforteth the Brain and Heart 
and helpeth Digestion." 1 Two cups of this mixture dis- 
appeared, being acceptable to us more for its sweetness 
than for any other merit, notwithstanding the little brass 
waiter was not so clean as the hand which held it; and yet 
we soon became accustomed to this method of preparing 
the drink, which in consistency resembles soup rather than 
coffee. This is the place where tradition supposes that 
Jonah was thrown out by the whale; and a little " wely" 
or tomb with a dome, not far from the khan, marks 
the burial-place of the prophet, according to the Arab 
account ; which may be as correct as any other state- 
ment, the probability being more in favor of this than of 
any other place. 2 Near the little khan and in the ridges 
are ruins of mountain- tombs ; and as far back as the time 
of the traveller Pococke, 3 one hundred and twenty years 
ago, " some pillars, a Corinthian capital, and ruins on 
each side of a mountain-torrent," were seen by him ; but 
neither tombs nor ruins are very apparent at present. 
The Arabs now do more damage to ruins where some 
traces of beauty and ancient form still linger than do 



1 Natural History, ch. viii. ex. 738, London, 1676. As he died in 1626, 
this notice helps to date the introduction of coffee into England. 

2 In the neighborhood of Gaza there is another Nely Yunas ; and Dr. 
Stuart speaks also of one in the Bay of Iskanderoun, (Alexandretta.) But 
Jonah was going to Nineveh, on the north, and hence Gaza, on the south, 
is contrary to history ; and the song of the prophet indicates that he intended, 
as was usual, to celebrate his deliverance at the temple ; hence Alexandretta 
is too far north. 

3 Richard Pococke travelled in Palestine in 1738. Vol. ii. p. 89, folio. See 
Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 432. 



138 



TYRIAN PURPLE. 



time and storms themselves. Here is supposed to be 
the site of the ancient Porphyrion, a town probably 
noted for the manufacture of the purple dye which in 
the Greek is " porphyra," (nopfyvpa.) It might have been 
the great purple-dye-factory of Tyre. Though called 
" Tyrian dye," it received that name only from the fact 
of having been first made at Tyre ; for it is plain that 
the shells on the immediate coast of Tyre alone could not 
supply the great demand for the dye. A private com- 
munication has lately been received from a gentleman 
who has been examining the eastern shores of the Medi- 
terranean. He has, with a view to gain information on 
the source of the ancient purple-shells, succeeded in 
collecting several shells which yield a liquid almost 
colorless at first but after exposure acquiring an intense 
purple. If they should be shells of a species common 
on the coast, this shell may yet be proved to have been 
the source of the celebrated dye. 1 There is a shell at 

1 Mr. Wilde has asserted that in the dye-pots of Tyre he discovered a 
"concrete mass" of shells of the Murex, (Murex trunculus, as quoted by Kitto 
in Phys. Hist, of Palestine, p. 418;) and though this is received confidently 
by Kitto as settling the question as to the source of the dye, there is much 
uncertainty as to its reliability in point of the species, for only a different 
variety sometimes produces great differences of properties never suspected 
to proceed from so small a difference in the shell. Hence, while even a 
perfect half of a shell will not always enable a conchologist to determine 
the variety, much less would a "concrete mass" of shells. And yet this 
was the only material upon which Mr. Wilde decided. Moreover, the 
shells in the family purpurifera (purple-producing shells) do not afford the 
coloring-material, but a vesicle within the shell, which alone contains the 
coloring-liquid, and can be dissected out, (as in the sepia fish, which fur- 
nishes the India ink, so called ;) and the color, moreover, would suffer in 
delicacy by being crushed out of the animal, commingled with its blood and 
juice. Hence, while this shell may possibly have contained the animal, we 
think that neither the facts nor the nature of the color sufficiently prove that 



M I M S A. 



139 



present found on the coast yielding a purple, a repre- 
sentation of which I have given, in the plate of flowers, 
from some specimens in my possession. 

At five minutes after four o'clock we were mounted 
and on our way, with our tarpaulin coats and trousers 
to keep off the rain, now beginning to fall. In a minute 
we pass another of the square and ruined towers, but so 
far from the shore that it was doubtful whether, unless 
by its great elevation, it could have served for communi- 
cating by signals with the others, which has been sup- 
posed. In the distance, upon an angle in the coast, we see 
steam arising from the rocks to a height of twenty feet 
resembling the smoke and spray from the head of a 
whale when spouting. On approaching, we find a cavity 
in these wave- worn rocks, similar to the one in Beirut, 
through which the water is forced by the approach- 
ing billows. Farther on, another is seen, but smaller; 
and the hissing sound can be heard at a great distance. 
Presently we descend a projecting ras, (promontory,) 
and immediately enter upon a plain of sand of a yellow 
hue, running up into the hills and mountains for some 
distance; and over the plain comes with the gentle 

this murex was the source. There is little doubt that additional and decided 
information will yet be obtained in reference to the character of this dye and 
of the animal that furnished it. 

The family of purpurifera is divided into eleven genera, which com- 
prised in 1823 from one to two hundred species. All those which have been 
dissected show a vesicle filled with a coloring- liquid. The species which has 
served as a type to the genus purpura, called the purpura patula, is found in 
the Mediterranean. It is from this animal that it is thought the purple 
of the ancients was made ; but since the introduction of the cochineal it is 
no longer used. — History and Description of the Royal Museum of Natural 
History, by M. Deleuze, Paris, 1823. 



140 



RIVER AUWALY. 



evening breeze a sudden fragrance of some blossoms 
which we have known before. It seems wild, yet in the 
little, round, yellow furze blossoms on the long and deli- 
cate-leafed branch we recognise the beautiful and fra- 
grant mimosa. 1 

We now arrive at the bank of a creek, flowing down 
through the plain, the apparent depth of which causes 
us to halt ; and after the arrival of our baggage, without 
passing up to the single-arched bridge above, spoken of by 
travellers, 2 we plunge in, finding it only knee-deep to 
our horses and easily forded. This is the Arab Nahr er 
Auly, of previous maps, pronounced by the Arabs as if 
the first syllable of the following word was accented 
thus, — 6-wa-ly,- — and supposed to be the ancient Bos- 
trenus. 3 

It is now but a short distance to Sidon. The 
sun has already set, and in the dimness of evening 
four horsemen might have been seen galloping over the 
sea-border of this plain, the waves rolling in and 
breaking nearly at their horses' feet, while, regardless 
of mules and baggage and the scenery, which night is 
fast shrouding in darkness, they rapidly press on, 
finding more mettle in their horses than they had 

1 Mimosa Farnesiana, Linn. It grows to the height of seventeen or 
eighteen feet. 

2 Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 429. D'Arvieux says it was erected by 
an Italian architect introduced by Fakir ed Din. Mem. i. p. 327. 

3 Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 429. The Arabs distinctly pronounced 
it in my hearing as above. Hence I suppose the proper spelling should be 
Auwaly rather than er-Auly, as on previous maps. The spelling of Dr. 
Robinson's new map sustains the spelling I have given. I have therefore 
retained it on my map. 



ENTERING SIDON. 



141 



exhibited before. They at last rein up at the 
walls and gate of Sidon. Every thing is dim, silent, 
and desolate, and a voice echoes in its demand for 
entrance. After considerable knocking, with sharp 
questions and answers, in which all are forced to join, 
they gain admission through a musty and creaking gate 
and pass into a darkness which gives a romantic 
uncertainty to the age and form of the solemn old walls 
and turrets, permitting a fancy which likens the strangers 
to knights in the times of the Crusades entering some 
haunted and silent hall after a midnight adventure. A 
flickering light, but slightly protected from the breeze 
by a dark hand, reveals to the few spectators a doubtful 
stairway, at the foot of which, at five minutes before 
seven, the horsemen dismount. They throw off their 
cloaks, ascend some twenty-five stone steps, and are in the 
piazza of the French khan, which appears somewhat like 
a convent, — by which name it is sometimes erroneously 
called. At one door they knock and ask if they may 
have shelter for themselves and baggage. A surly 
answer comes : — " No ! no !" So, entering another room, 
in twenty minutes the muleteers arrive; and, amid bed, 
chairs, and baggage, a table is set, coffee and bread-and- 
butter take the place of a more plentiful repast in the 
future, and, with hearts filled with gratitude to Him who 
has thus far guided and protected them, they are soon 
asleep in the old castle-like khan of Saida, the ancient 
Sidon. 



142 



ORIGIN OF SIDON. 



CHAPTEE VI. 

SIDON— ITS MISFORTUNES AND PRESENT RUINS. 

By the first light of the morning we commenced a 
general survey of all that could be seen from the highest 
part of our building. This afforded the view we have 
furnished of those places with which the chief asso- 
ciations of antiquity are connected, and which will 
become more interesting after the following compend 




of its history. The name Sidon — in the Hebrew Tsidon 
or Zidon — suggests the inference that the name of Ca- 



ITS EARLY HISTORY. 



143 



naan's first-born son might have indicated his pursuits 
and been given to him accordingly. We find in several 
scriptural passages that in very early times men devoted 
themselves to certain characteristic employments. Abel 
was a keeper of sheep ; Cain, a tiller of the ground; Tubal 
Cain, " instructor of every artificer in brass and iron ;" 
and as Zidon (JiTy) signifies a fisherman, it is not im- 
probable that Sidon received a name from his success 
in that employment, and choosing this place, which 
projected into the sea, as his residence, named it after 
himself. Thus the two apparently-varying opinions as 
to the origin of the name of the town — the one of 
Justin, from "fishing," 1 the other of Josephus, from 
"Sidon," Canaan's son 2 — may be found to agree. 

Its name occurs in the Pentateuch, — first in Gen. x. 
19; and in the classics, — in Homer several times. 3 The 
name of Tyre occurs in neither, and not in the Scrip- 
tures till Joshua xix. 29. Hence it is supposed to 
have been younger than Sidon. Sidon must have 
been a remarkable place, honored of all during those 
early centuries until, 720 B.C., the Assyrian Shalma- 
neser subdued it to the Assyrians and Persians; 4 for 
Strabo says that of old it was noted for its advance in 
philosophy, geometry, astronomy, navigation, and the 
arts; 5 and, 1000 B.C., Solomon's opinion of the inhabit- 

1 xviii. 3. 

2 Josephus, Antiquities, i. vi. 2. " Sidonius, who also built a city of the 
same name." 

3 Iliad, vi. 289, xxiii. 743; Odyssey, xv. 415, xvii. 424. Vide other refe- 
rences under " Sarepta." 

4 R .Vinson's Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 421. 5 Strabo, 1. c. 



144 ITS CHANGES. 

ants was that there were none that had the "skill to 
hew timber like to the Sidonians f 1 and, though this city 
was granted to Asher, yet, Josephus says, Sidon and 
Tyre "from their ancestors were free cities." The 
Israelites never succeeded in subduing them. And 
after much of the beauty and grandeur of Sidon 
and its daughter Tyre had passed away, there was 
enough left of its former glory to incite Cleopatra to 
"bewitch" Antony with urgent requests that he 
would give them to her, which, as they were free 
cities, he could not. 2 This was after it had once been 
destroyed; for when it revolted under Artaxerxes 
Ochus, 3 350 B.C., it was retaken and demolished, 4 but 
soon after rebuilt, 332 B.C. Alarmed at the victorious 
progress of Alexander the Great from Damascus, it 
opened its gates and submitted. 5 As late as B.C. 127 
the coins of Sidon show that the Syrian goddess Astarte 



1 1 Kings v. 6. 

2 aZ/ic nai qapiia.K.oiq 6oke~lv v—clkoveiv elg b ti av ekelvt] Qe?«t). Antiq. xv. 4, 1. 

3 Artaxerxes III., King of Persia, called Oclius, succeeded his father, b.c. 
358. He was a cruel monster. He caused his sister Oclia to be buried alive, and 
ordered one of his uncles and his sons and grandsons to be shot by his archers. 
He quelled a revolt in Phoenicia by the utter destruction of Sidon ; but, sub- 
duing Egypt and showing his contempt for the sacred bull, Apis, by killing 
him. he incurred the hatred of an Egyptian eunuch, who prevailed on his 
physician to administer poison in place of medicine, by which he died, in 
the twenty-first year of his reign. After his death this eunuch had his 
body cut up into small pieces, fed it out to the cats, and then made knife- 
handles of his bones. Some have supposed that this Ochus was husband to 
Queen Esther ; but the probability is in favor of Artaxerxes I., called Longi- 
manus. (See last edition Edinburgh Encyclopedia, — ''Esther.") 

4 Diodorus Siculus, xvi. 42, quoted by Kobinson. vol. iii. p. 421. 

5 Josephus, Antiquities, xi. 3, and authorities by Robinson, vol. iii. 
p. 421. 



MISFORTUNES OF SIDON. 



145 



was worshipped there. 1 Alternating between Syrian and 
Egyptian rule, it finally fell to the Romans; and, during 
the times of the New Testament, it was described 
by writers of that day as "wealthy Sidon, formerly 
taken from the Persians, and now the chiefest of the 
maritime cities." 2 In 325 a.d. it sent its first bishop, 
Theodoras, to the first General Council at Nice. Then 
it passed into the shadow of years, in which little 
was heard or known of it until the time when the 
Crusaders, having taken Jerusalem, laid siege to Sidon, 
under Baldwin, and, aided by a Danish and Norwegian 
fleet 3 , conquered it, Dec. 19, a.d. 11 11. 4 After this 
the vicissitudes of Sidon were remarkably rapid and 
melancholy. In the hands of the Christians seventy- 
six years, it fell into the power of Saladin, without 
resistance, who partially destroyed the city and tore 
down its fortresses. Ten years passed on, and the 
Christians, after a hard-fought battle, entered Sidon, 
a desolate town. The soldiers made stables of palaces, 
and lighted their fires with the cedar carvings and beauti- 
ful ornaments of Sidon, and then departing to Beirut, 
they were followed by their enemy, who in madness 
completed its destruction. Once more it rose from 

1 On two coins of Sidon there appears a crowned head of Demetrius 
looking toward the right hand, and on the reverse a figure of Astarte on the 
prow of a vessel, with the inscription Goddess of Sidon, and dates MP 183 
2IIP 185, giving us, in the year of the Seleucidas (see Appendix II.) the 
date of the worship of Astarte in later times. — Mionnefs Tab. Med., vol. v. 
pp. 64, 65, Paris, 1811. 

2 Pompon. Mela, i. 12. Robinson, vol. iii. p. 421. 

3 Wil. of Tyr. Bel. Sac. ii. 14. 

* Knolles's History of Turkey, folio, 1638, p. 26. 

10 



146 



SUDDEN DESERTION. 



crushed ruins; and it was rebuilt by the Christians, only 
to be again taken and again dismantled by the Sara- 
cens half a century after, in 1249. At this time the 
crumbling fortress represented in our view was of service 
to protect a few who, four years after the last destruction, 
in attempting to restore its buildings, were attacked by 
a Moslem host. Part fled to this insulated castle, where 
they were protected ; but two thousand of their friends, 
not able to get within, were slain upon the ruins they 
could not defend. Only a few weeks afterward, 
Louis IX. of France, who has left a name in connection 
with Sidon which will not soon be forgotten, surrounded 
it with walls and towers, and afterward built the fortifi- 
cation or, as it is sometimes called, the castle south of the 
city, — which we shall pass after leaving Sidon. 1 This was 
in 1253. For about thirty years after it was occupied 
by the Knights Templars. But suddenly, fearful of the 
scourge of the Saracens, they relinquished it to its fate, 
and again the crushing power of the Mohammedans 
dismantled it in 1291. Thus Sidon, once glorious in 
architecture and in art, gradually sunk, until, worn out 
by constant reverses, it seemed as though the last hope 
of life had faded from her walls forever, when the cele- 
brated Fakir ed Din, of whom we have already spoken, 
built here a palace for himself, and also this old French 
khan, encouraging the Christians and the French, from 
whom he professed to have descended. To prevent the 
entrance of the Arabs, he filled up the harbors along 



1 See authorities by Robinson, Biblical Researches, vol. iii. pp. 418, 424. 



SAD RECOLLECTIONS. 



147 



the coast, throwing in the rubbish of the city's ruins 
into this harbor, the narrow entrance to which is seen 
in the centre of the view, so that many fragments of 
Sidon's former greatness and beauty now lie buried 
beneath these waters. In 1651 the quaint historian, 
Thomas Fuller, thus speaks of its glass-factories: — 
" Sidon was famous for the finest crystal glasses, which 
here were made. The glassie sand was fetched forty 
miles off, from the river Belus ; but it could not be made 
fusile till it was brought hither, 1 whether for want of 
tools, or from some secret, sullen humour therein, we 
will not 'dispute. This citie anciently was of great 
renown ; but, her fortunes being as brittle as her glasses, 
she was fain to find neck for every one of the Monarchs' 
yokes, and now at last was subdued by the Christians." 2 
The French, who were most successful as merchants at 
Sidon, were driven out at the Ke volution by Djezzar 
Pasha ; and from that time Sidon has gradually declined 
to the miserable town of the present day. Once truly 
"the great Sidon," 3 once furnishing architects such as 
no other city could furnish, 4 once the "replenisher" of 
even luxurious Tyre, 5 once so free that even the con- 
quering hosts of Israel could not overcome her, perhaps 
God permitted this " thorn" in the side of Israel as a 
punishment overruled to their benefit, inasmuch as, being 
novices in the arts, they could the better be served 
by the Sidonians. Be that as it may, she who was 
once great is now as a cleft in the rock. She who built 

1 Sandys's Travels, p. 210. 

2 Fuller's Historie of the HolvWarre, 1651, ii. 12. 

3 Joshua xi. 8. 4 1 Kings v. 6. 5 Isaiah xxiii. 2. 



148 



PRESENT HELPLESSNESS. 



up cities and nourished them no longer builds herself, 
but sits dismantled, and nourishes others only by part- 
ing with the sad and beautiful blood-washed fragments 
of her long-lost greatness, carried off daily as it were in 
funeral processions, to be buried forever in distant 
places, where not even the antiquary shall recognise 
them. 1 " Son of man, set thy face against Zidon and 
prophesy against it; and say, Thus saith the Lord God: 
Behold, I am against thee, Zidon ; and I will be glori- 
fied in the midst of thee ; and they shall know that I 
am the Lord when I shall have executed judgments in 
her. . . . For I will send . . . blood into her streets. . . . 
And there shall be no more a pricking brier unto the 
house of Israel." 2 And when looking upon the beautiful 
plain in which this place is set and considering the excel- 
lence of the soil, which even now, without any proper agri- 
cultural treatment, bears the luxuriant foliage of mul- 
berries, bananas, and other trees of smaller growth, and 
then looking out upon the wide sea and the port, we 
asked the question, " Why cannot these people revive and 
gather strength and make these advantages tributary to 
their prosperity ? Where are their helpers ? Are there 
none to remove these rocks and obstructions, these 
4 bonds and yokes' ?" 3 And the answer returns, from the 
sepulchres beneath both sea and sand : — " Because of the 
day" that has come "to cut off from Tyre and Sidon every 
helper that remaineth." 4 

1 After Artaxerxes Ochus burnt Sidon, he sold the rubbish and relics of the 
fire for many talents ; for, the city being very rich, there was found a vast quan- 
tity of gold and silver melted down by the flames. — Diodorus Sic, bk. xxi. c. 8. 

2 Ezek. xxviii. 21-24. 3 Jeremiah xxvii. 2, 3. 4 Jeremiah xlvii. 4. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE PORT. 



149 




ANCIENT PORT OF SIDON AS AT PRESENT. 



The above sketch was taken from the top of 
the khan. From this place we could distinctly see 
not only the ruins around the harbor, but many frag- 
ments of columns entirely covered by the water. From 
the same position we can also judge of the depth of the 
shallow harbor through the water for nearly four-fifths 
of the whole length. A channel comes in beneath the 
masted vessels in our sketch. These vessels are about 
twenty-five feet in length and from five to six tons. 
Fishermen were wading about, laying their nets, which do 
not differ materially from the ordinary net. The bridge 
on the right connects the main land with the island- 
castle Kulat el Bahr, (castle of the sea,) and is about 
fifteen feet high, with nine arches, several hidden by the 
minaret on the extreme right. On the Lebanon the snow 



150 



INTERIOR OF SIDON. 



which had fallen last night covered the ridges for miles; 
but clouds occasionally hid the mountain from our view. 
Turning again to the sea, a rocky crest, near which are 
three vessels, seems to be the foundation of ancient build- 
ings, — perhaps of a fortress; and a square opening is dis- 
tinctly seen without the aid of the glass. In the middle 
of the ledge intervening there is a group of four massive 
blocks; and others appear at the end of this ledge, — 
which seems to have been a breakwater. The number, 
position, and character of the vessels have been scrupu- 
lously preserved as seen by the author on the spot. Yet 
we are told that the harbor once could safely accommodate 
"fifty galleys." 1 The castle seems to have been often re- 
paired, and now shows eight distinct buildings with a little 
dome, all miserably put together, with only sixteen open- 
ings of any kind, one of which is blocked up. The sketch 
is accurately drawn, presenting every little depression and 
elevation in those buildings and ruins, which are the only 
parts of Sidon laying claim to any antiquity of interest. 

On descending, we found our friends rather nervously 
inclined to wonder whither we had so mysteriously 
disappeared, and how we had escaped their long search. 
But a young Syrian acquaintance, who had pointed out 
to me a little hole of a window through which we had 
passed to the roof, explained our disappearance, and 
put the same spirit of exploration into our party. Our 
breakfast was now a matter of small moment ; and we 
were soon in the streets. How strange it seems 
to call these little alleys streets! The largest we 

1 D'Arvieux, Mem. i. p. 258. 



NARROW STREETS. 



151 



passed was by measurement eight feet ten inches from 
wall to wall ; and another measured only five feet. The 
former was divided by a gutter two feet ten inches 
wide and about eight inches deep, in which the camels 
and mules walk. The roofs of the bazaars, or stores, 
touched each other overhead, making a complete cover- 
ing from rain. In many places the street ran under 
groined arches for a distance of fifty or sixty feet; and 
in the evening these streets are perfectly dark, while 
beyond the dismal arches the light is sufficient to enable 
one with ease to choose his path. The streets are muddy 
and in some places filthy, but not to the extent which 
exists at Eome, nor is there any such insufferable odor. 
The inhabitants generally have a lighter complexion than 
the Egyptians, and, though quite inquisitive while I was 
taking my measurements, were unobtrusive. 

While stopping to buy some of the honey-cake often 
found in these bazaars, a funeral procession passed, clear- 
ing the street by crowding and pushing. Several turbaned 
men pressed forward, singing quite lustily, followed by 
veiled women and some men bearing the corpse in a pine 
box, over which a figured cloth was thrown. The candy 
we purchased is called by the Arabs halay-way, and looks 
like a whitened molasses-candy, made of honey and an oily 
seed called simsin, causing the paper enclosing it to become 
quite greasy. It possesses, however, an agreeable flavor. 

In examining some large chestnuts in the market, I 
was assured that the chestnut^tree does not grow in this 
country, these huge specimens before me (four inches 
in circumference) having been imported from Sicily and 



152 



CHESTNUT-TREE. 



Leghorn. The chestnut is considered a native of Italy, 
and that of the Scriptures is evidently the magnifi- 
cent Oriental plane-tree, or buttonwood and sycamore 
of the United States, which bears no edible fruit. 
Hence Virgil calls it u sterile plane" 1 



1 It is doubtful whether what is understood at present as the chestnut-tree 
( Castanea Fagus) ever grew in Syria. The word in the Scriptures (Gen. xxx. 37; 
Ezek. xxxi. 8) translated " chestnut" is pO"1j/, (gnarmon,) from a root 
signifying "made bare or naked." There is but one tree — and that 
in Northern Syria — that can be described by that word ; and, indeed, the word 
in its signification would point us to it. That tree is the Oriental plane, or, 
as some commonly call it, maple-tree. It is familiar to the inhabit- 
ants of a large part of the United States by the name of buttonwood, in 
Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee as the sycamore and sometimes as the 
water-beech, and among the French of Canada as the cotton-tree. "We 
have frequently seen trees seventy and eighty feet in height, with branches 
extending horizontally to such an extent as to cause surprise that the weight 
of such long branches did not break their connections at the trunk. The 
bark scales off in patches, — a characteristic of the tree everywhere, the 
Oriental variety and the Occidental being almost identical, the former 
requiring more time in growth, and the leaves not quite so broad or 
deeply marked. It flowers in April and May in the Levant, ripening 
its seeds about October, and bearing balls of sizes varying from one to 
four inches in circumference, which appear before the leaves. The little 
hard nut or button within the cottony covering gives to the tree the name 
of " buttonwood." The platanus, or plane, [tree] derives its name from 
the Greek TrXarvg, broad, in reference to its wide-spreading branches. It 
is a magnificent tree, a native of the Levant, well known and described 
in the times of Theocritus, who says the Spartan virgins used to assemble 
round the plane-tree, singing, "Reverence me, for I am the tree of Helen." 
and as far back as Homer described as " the shady plane." Virgil, 
Horace, and Ovid, among the Latins, refer to it. It was used in 1651 (accord- 
ing to Riccioli) by the Turks for ship-building, as it has been for other 
purposes, even for furniture. The weight of the wood when dry (by experi- 
ment of M. Hassenfratz, quoted by Loudon in his Arboretum, vol.Jv.) is 
forty-nine pounds three ounces to the cubic foot. Kitto repeats the tale of 
Herodotus that Xerxes encircled one with a collar of gold. But iElian 
adds that his delay beneath its shade was one of the causes of his defeat: 
and Evelyn quotes from Herodotus that Xerxes covered it with gold, gems, 
necklaces, &c, and then had a figure of it stamped on a medal of gold. 
(Hunt, Evel., ii. p. 52.) Pausanias (a.d. 170) mentions a plane-tree of 



MOSAICS. 



153 



Just north of Sidon are half-buried fragments of 
sculptured stone, some coarse mosaics, and pieces of 
ancient pottery scattered for several hundred yards 
along the shore. In 1819, a merchant 1 noticed a 
mosaic, some ten feet square, representing a horse- 
man mounted, with festoons, forming a mosaic floor, 
not far north of the wall ; but at present it is not to be 
seen : perhaps it lies buried beneath the sand. South 
of Sidon are half-filled excavations and sarcophagi 
partly exposed, some of which are probably untouched 
and may contain treasures for the antiquary, the his- 
torian, or even the miser. But the Arabs will not allow 
a passing traveller to open these tombs without making 
so much opposition that it is hazardous to succeed in the 
attempt. I think, however, from the desire exhibited on 
the part of the inhabitants to trade, that a plan might be 
adopted to exhume or purchase larger relics than those 
offered in the streets. M. de Saulcy mentions that he 
found a bas-relief built into the walls of the khan, which 
we suppose is the one in which we have taken up our resi- 
dence. This relief bore the name of Julian, which M. de 



extraordinary size and beauty and at his time thirteen hundred years old. 
The groves of Epicurus, in which Aristotle taught, and the groves of 
Academus, in which Plato delivered his celebrated discourses, were of this 
tree. Pliny (lib. xii. cap. 1) speaks of plane-trees in the Lyceum at 
Athens, whose roots extended farther than their branches. He says that one 
existed in his time eighty-one feet in circumference, and that Mucianus ate 
with eighteen persons in its hollow. See, further, Loudon Arbor., &c, iv. 
part iii. chap, cvii., London, 1844. With these facts before the reader, 
the allusion in Ezek. xxxi. 8 is evidently to this tree, whose history 
and peculiarities and Hebrew name point to the buttonwood (the Platanvs 
Orientalis) of Syria as the true chestnut of the Scriptures. 
1 Mem. of the Black Sea, Dearborn, Boston, 1819, vol. ii. p. 159. 



154 



LADY STANHOPE. 



Saulcy has conjectured to be the name of some artist in 
an epitaph composed for himself. 1 But Julian was the 
name of the temporal lord from whom the Knights 
Templars purchased Sidon, (a.d. 1260;) and it is more 
probable that the name may have reference to him. 2 

The most interesting spot near Sidon to us was 
where the still lingering ruins of Lady Hester Stan- 
hope's beautiful country-seat have a place. Joun (the 
name of the little village) once possessed a convent; 
and in after-times the ruined building was granted to 
Lady Hester by Abdallah, Pacha of St. Jean d'Acre. 
It seems scarcely six miles from Sidon, in a direction 
but little north of east. We could only see the place 
amid the hills in the distance, where once were 
beautiful kiosks ornamented with sculptures and 
paintings, marble fountains, and arbors intertwined 
with the jessamine and fragrant with the orange and 
the lemon tree, the whole surrounded by a white wall 
and forming the beautiful palace of the niece of Mr. 
Pitt. Lamartine, in October, 1832, succeeded in obtain- 
ing an interview with Lady Stanhope, and speaks of 
her astrological humors at that time; but, though this 
might have been a fancy near the close of her life, there 
is no reason to suppose that in the days of her queenly 
triumphs over the barbarism of her adopted friends any 
such singularities had an influence over her. Her 
early life was one of just such conquests as might, have 
been expected on the part of beauty, of talent, and of 

1 M. de Saulcy, vol. i. p. 36. 

2 The authorities Hugo, p. 736, and others in Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 424. 



HER INTREPIDITY. 



155 



wealth, and, without the supposition of disappointed love, 
— which Lamartine throws into his interesting sketch of 
her life, — an unusual and almost Amazonian decision of 
character, evidently modified by the Oriental scenes into 
which she was introduced, might have easily developed 
her early course into the latter direction without neces- 
sitating the supposition of insanity as a cause. Imagine 
a lady of such personal attractions as taught her she 
was admired everywhere, with a cultivated imagination, 
no strong attachment to her home, and with such singu- 
lar intrepidity and strength of nerve that she could 
meet danger alone, at midnight and unshrinking, and, 
as in one instance related of Lady Hester by her phy- 
sician, absolutely seize with one hand a large serpent that 
had coiled itself around her and in immediate contact 
with her person, unloose it with the other, and then 
deliberately kill it, without any apparent fear. 1 Now, 
add to such a character a sympathy for the legends and 
histories of the past, with the desire of visiting the 
lands of their origin; grant it wealth to execute its 
desire; then transfer yourself in imagination to the Ori- 
ent and to Palmyra, and, amid its beautiful sculptures 
and its more glorious associations, gather four thousand 
unconquered Arabs, free and fearless as the eagles of their 



1 Diary of her Physician, vol. iii., London. In a letter to her physician, 
just one month previous to her death, she said, "Thank God for my 
nerves! Would you sleep alone in a room with this girl? [Zezifoon.] 
And, besides, she told me the other day that she had only teeth for those 
who displeased her ; and, therefore, you see that she is not ashamed of 
herself. But I think no more of her than of a little babe, and sleep on 
quietly/' — Memoirs of Lady StanJwpe, vol. iii. p. 338. 



15G LADY STANHOPE'S TEMPTATIONS. 



mountains and the winds of their plains, and let them 
be seen with four thousand steeds of the desert, the 
representatives of many thousands more; let them 
come from all parts, with their camels and spices and 
silks and treasures, their wives and their graceful 
daughters, and then amid the romantic influence of 
such a scene place the character we have described, and 
at her disposal the crown of Palmyra, and she may 
become, though a woman, what Lord Byron was as a 
man, — simply an example where the tempter has tri- 
umphed over the victim of ambition and of imagination 
but not of insanity. These were the scenes which 
transpired in 1821, when Lady Hester was offered the 
crown of Palmyra. But she outlived the grandeur of 
her reign, and in her obstinate solitude at Joun was 
deserted by her riches, which in their flight carried away 
the loyalty of her subjects, her honors, and, perhaps, 
toward the close of her days, her reason also. 1 Her 
history is also an illustration of Arab character and of 
the fickle nature of its adoration and its loyalty. 

Yan de Velde speaks of an extensive view to be had 
from a conical hill — generally considered about nine or 
ten miles east of Sidon — called Bummiet Bum, near 



1 Much interesting information concerning Lady Stanhope may be gath- 
ered from her physician's diary of her travels, (London, 3 vols. 12mo,^ and 
from Lamartine's Palmyra, vol. i. She died June, 1839, alone. Her 
emaciated corpse was interred in the same grave in which the body of a 
friend, Captain Loustaunau, had been placed some years before, in her own 
garden. This was according to her desire ; and she was buried by Mr. 
Moore, the English consul, and the American missionary, Rev. Mr. Thomp- 
son. — Memoirs, by her Physician, p. 341. 



LEBANON RANGES. 



157 



the village of Hum, though reckoned by him as five 
hours' ride from Sidon. From this place a fine and 
extensive view can be obtained. 1 We record it in antici- 
pation of another visit, and for the benefit of others who 
may pass this way. Southeast of Sidon is the Jebl 
Rihan, which may be said to be the last mountain- 
ridge of the Lebanon on the south. East of this is Mount 
Hermon, at a distance which we have calculated at 
about thirty-two English miles, fifteen degrees south of 
east from Sidon, and nearly twice as far from us as 
Jebl Rihan, which is somewhat farther south than Her- 
mon. Here is where both ridges of the great ranges ter- 
minate, the Lebanon, in Jebl Rihan on the west, and the 
Anti-Lebanon, in Jebl esh Sheikh, or Mount Hermon, on 
the east, both ranges converging from the northeast to 
this region, with opening sufficient to permit the Leon- 
tes River to pass out from the long valley of Coele 
Syria. This river finds its source just above Baalbek, 
about fifty-three miles northeast of us, and, flowing down 
through the valley, it suddenly turns westward around 
the spurs of Jebl Rihan and runs into the Mediterranean 
at a point some fifteen miles south of Sidon. As we shall 
soon leave the latitude of the Lebanon, the enumeration 
of the Lebanon peaks, with their characteristic interests, 
might well invite a few minutes' delay just here. The 
analysis of the mass of mountains and hills of Syria 
north of the latitude of Sidon would first divide the 



1 Van de Velde, vol. i. p. 92. The English copy contains a mistake, 
having " west" of Sidon for " east." 



158 



ANALYSIS OF LEBANON. 



whole into two great separate ranges, the long and broad 
valley of Buka'a (the valley Coele Syria) between them 
being an interesting separating feature and terminating 
about this latitude. The western range runs nearly 
in a straight line north-northeast, and is called Jebl 
Libnan by the Arabs, but simply and par excellence 
Lib anus, or Mount Lebanon. The eastern runs still 
more to the east, curving slightly around to the north- 
east and is called, in contradistinction to the other range, 
" the Lebanon over-against the other Lebanon," or 
Anti-Lebanon. These are the two main divisions. 
Between these lies, as aforesaid, the Yalley of Coele or 
Hollow Syria; and yet the valley-floor is generally con- 
sidered at least two thousand feet above the level of 
the Mediterranean. 1 This valley, from a width of 
about twenty miles near its northeastern termina- 
tion, and at a distance from our position (Sidon) of 
eighty miles, approaches us, with some irregularities in 
width, till it contracts to about four, or at the utmost 
five, miles, a little to the south of east from us and at 
the roots of Hermon, where it permits the escape of 
the Leontes, as described, and also gives rise to the 
most northern supplies of the Jordan, near the town of 
Hasbeiya, in a valley called Wady et Teim, down 
which valley, side by side with the Leontes, for some 
distance runs the little Nahr Hasbeiya, emptying into 

1 A manuscript map, obtained last year from Kiepert, in Berlin, by Rev. 
Dr. Coleman, of Philadelphia, to whose kindness I am indebted for an 
examination of it and other maps, makes it at El Merj, five or six miles 
south of Zahleh, two thousand five hundred and seventy-three feet above the 
sea. This I suppose is after Porter, Five Years in Damascus, vol. i. p. 11. 



MOHAMMEDAN TOMBS. 



159 



the Lake Huleh, (the waters of Merom,) and thence 
on south to the Lake of Tiberias. 

Now, with this termination of the two ranges in our 
memory, let us here commence at the western range, 
the Lebanon, and enumerate the interests which are 
hung upon the links of its chain. First, and farthest 
south, is Jebl Kihan, a few miles from the foot of which 
sweeps around the Leontes of the ancients. Between 
it and Kihan are several tombs of Mohammedan pro- 
phets, the names of whom are all we know of them, and, 
more than this, there is reason to suppose that some 
are made " for the market," without ever having had a 
vital existence, being perhaps only characters canonized 
neby (prophet) for the sake of getting up a tomb for the 
benefit of some Mohammedan mason. For, while several 
of the nebys are of Biblical origin, as Neby Samwil, (Sa- 
muel,) Musa, (Moses,) Yunas, (Jonah,) &c, very many 
are of those of whom my guides and the Arabs knew no- 
thing whatever, but, on inquiry, shrugging up the shoul- 
ders after the Italian method, would confess their igno- 
rance. The wooded forests of Kihan could be plainly 
seen by us, and the villages on its seaward slopes. 
There are two castles, Djebea and Surba, not distin- 
guishable by us, but spoken of as seen distinctly from 
Sidon, "glittering in the sun's rays against the dark 
shady foot of the mountain," 1 and on the southern top 
of the mountain the wely of Neby Sejud, supposed to 
be the tomb of Aholiab, the workman of the Tabernacle, 



1 Van de Velde, vol. i. p. 90. 



160 



CHALCIS. 



and said to be visited by the Jews as such. 1 Mr. Yan de 
Velde considers this the most rugged and thickly- 
wooded mountain in the land. Next in order north are 
several peaks, with one principal point, bearing the 
name of Tom Niha, being a prominent and conical 
peak, and probably a point from which observations 
for mapping this region might be taken with better 
results than from any other point around. The next 
long link is Jebl Baruk, remarkable for being of all 
the ridges the one to which the Leontes runs nearest. 
It presents most strongly a characteristic of the Leba- 
non range, namely, that the eastern slopes descend 
precipitously to the Valley of Buka'a, while the west- 
ern runs gradually down a thousand step-like descents 
until the hills merge themselves into the sea-coast 
plains. East of its northern terminus, in a plain- 
part of the valley, are ruins of the city of Chalcis, 
near the cool and gushing fountain of Anjar. It was 
here that Ptolemy executed his son, as Josephus twice 
relates, that he might obtain his wife Alexandra, whom 
he married after the execution. 2 This region by Pliny 3 

1 1 am inclined to put Aholiab's tomb (if he ever had one) in quite a 
different place and direction, — viz., in the wilderness, where "the whole 
number" of the murmurers perished, " from twenty years old and upward;' 7 
and Aholiab certainly was one of that number. Compare the time (Num. 
vii. 1) when the Tabernacle was finished with (xiv. 29) the time when the 
punishment was threatened, and see against whom, and it is plain Aholiab 
the architect (Ex. xxxvi. 1) was included in the number of the sentenced. 
See how definite is Numbers xxvi. 64. Yet Aholiab lids a tomb in the list 
of sacred places among the Jews, (see Dr. Wilson, vol. ii. p. 613;) and this 
shows that there are scriptural difficulties in connection with the Jewish 
lists of tombs. 

2 Joseph. Antiq. xiv. 7, 4, B. J. i, 9, 2. This was Ptolemy, son of Menseus. 

3 Unde regio Chalcidem fertilissima Syrice, B. v. 23. 



LYSANIAS THE TETRARCH. 



161 



was said to be the most productive in Syria; and Cleo- 
patra, in her travels through it with Antony, was 
so anxious to obtain it that she instigated the murder 
of LysaniaSj who had succeeded to the government of 
Chalcis on the death of Ptolemy, to whom we have just 
referred, and thus she accomplished her desires. 1 

Jebl Eihan terminates in the north at a mountain- 
pass east of Beirut, through which the main road 
passes from Beirut to the great valley. On the north 
of the pass is the high peak of Jebel Kuneiyiseh, 
referred to on page 106. Its height is considered six 
thousand eight hundred and twenty-five feet; and it 
stands as a huge outpost to guide the traveller's eye 
over many a rocky and distant ridge to the main moun- 
tain-pass to and from the Valley of the Buka'a. Then in 
order comes the pass of Mughitheh, and just beyond this 
is the noted Jebel Sunnim, eight thousand five hundred 

1 Very probably this Chalcis was a part of that tetrarchy, spoken of in 
Luke iii. 1, belonging to " Lysanias the tetrarch of Abilene," — a Lysanias 
who was not the one executed by Antony, but another of the same name, 
who must have been tetrarch at the birth of Christ, as Luke intimates. 
The previous Lysanias was executed b.c. 36. (Antiq. xv. 4, 1 ; Grotius in 
Luke, b. iii. chap. 1.) After the death of Cleopatra, Zenodorus formed this 
country by permission of Augustus; but, harboring and encouraging neigh- 
boring bands of robbers, the district was given to Herod the Great. (Antiq. 
xv. 10, 1.) After his death it was given to Philip and to Lysanias, a 
tetrarch, mentioned by the evangelist Luke, (iii. 1,) though not by Josephus. 
(Antiq. xvii. 11, 4.) The intimation of Josephus (Antiq. xx. 7, 1) is that, 
some time after Claudius became Caesar, "when he had completed the 
twelfth year of his reign," he separated Chalcis from Abila, " which had 
been the tetrarchy of Lysanias," the intimation is that they had been com- 
bined, when under Lysanias: — Avaavla Se avrrj eyoydvei rerpapxia. 
Xa?iKida 6e avrbv a^atpelrat, dwaarevaavra ravrriq ettj reaaapa. (Antiq. xx. 7, 1, 
textum, ed. Richter, Lipsia3,1826.) Mr. Porter says (Five Years in Damascus, 
vol. i. p. 15) that Lysanias transferred the government to Abila, and refers 
to Antiq. xiv. 13, 3 ; but his authority fails him entirely. 

11 



162 



CEDARS OF LEBANON. 



feet in height/ which, distinctly sinking, rises again into 
a range of elevated ridges, broad and wooded, running 
off j)erhaps twenty miles to the north-northeast, and 
for which I have no name unless that of Jebel Libnan, 
(the Arabic Libanus,) and where may be found the 
natural cave-bridge referred to. On the north of the 
last are left two more extended links to complete the 
chain. The first is the Jebel Mukhmel, noted as bear- 
ing on its western flanks the most celebrated grove of 
cedars of Lebanon. The first notices we have of the 
modern cedars of Lebanon are found in the journal 
of a traveller, who visited Lebanon in 1550. He 
describes these cedars as twenty miles east of Tripoli, 
up the mountains. Four miles before reaching them 
he came to the monastery of the Virgin Mary, and 
obtained Maronites as guides. They were then about 
twenty-eight in number, thought to be planted by 
Solomon, and in a valley on the mountains so covered 
with snow as only to be accessible in the summer. 2 
From that time to the present the trees have been 
gradually decreasing in number, until scarcely a dozen 
remain. Many of them are furrowed with lightning, 
which seems to strike them every year. While there 
are other groves discovered throughout the range of 
Lebanon, these trees are generally considered the 
ancient cedars. And here are annual festivals, and 



1 A snow-capped ridge, probably three miles in length. 

2 See Les Observ., &c, pp. 162, 163, also Belon's treatise De Arboribus 
Coniferis, p. 4, 1553, in Loudon's Arbor., and vol. iv. 2407 and 2409, 
London. 



HISTORY OF THE CEDARS. 



163 



here an altar and a little chapel, and around all in this 
grove solemn associations cluster; and, when these 
relics of past centuries shall fall, none others will ever 
be able to excite so much veneration as has been 
associated with them, even though an equal antiquity 
should be ascribed to them. 1 



l4< At a distance they look very much like wide-spreading conical oaks. 
The measurements of the largest trunks are eight and nine feet in diameter, 
twenty-four feet in circumference: and another, with a sort of triple body 
and of a triangular figure, measured twelve feet on each side." (Pococke's 
Description of the East, vol. ii. part 1, chap, on Syria, p. 105.) La Roque, 
who visited them in 1722, counted twenty-two large cedars, the largest with 
a trunk nineteen feet in circumference and a head of one hundred and 
twenty feet in circumference. (Voyage de Syrie, Amsterdam, 1723.) The 
celebrated temple of Diana at Ephesus, — which was accounted one of the 
seven wonders of the world, and which was two hundred and twenty years in 
building, — destroyed by fire on the night of the birth of Alexander the Great, 
was constructed principally of cedar. Pliny speaks of a temple of Apollo at 
Utica, in Africa, in which was found cedar timber that, though nearly two 
thousand years old, was perfectly sound. Its oil, or the resin of the cedar, 
preserved the papyrus, according to Vitruvius, (vol. iii. chap. 9:) and so it 
does the mummies. (Pliny, xvi. cap. ii., Diod. Sic. lib. i. §2.) As the 
annual alternations or rings in the wood of the cedar are very distinct, 
cross-sections of this wood may yet be used successfully in determining 
not only the age of the tree, but the comparative temperatures of the 
winters. There is a remarkable uniformity and relation between the 
temperature of winters and the character of these cyclical alternations of 
trees, as seen under a microscope after saturation; and, if this relation, 
which seems to exist in several American trees, — as in the chestnut, the ash, 
and the oak, — can be eventually developed in the cedar, meteorological facts 
of great interest may yet be elicited from the rings of ancient cedars in the 
mountains of Lebanon. In 1832, M. Bove, ex-Director of Agriculture of 
Ibrahim Pasha at Cairo, in going from Jakhlehe to Deir el Kamr, passed 
through a valley, and on the right was a mountain with some thousands 
of cedars on its summit. " These," he says, " are from three to sixteen 
feet in circumference, and in height exceeding fifty feet." (Am. Scient. 
Nat. 2, s, vol. i. p. 235, in Loudon's Arbor., vol. iv. 2407.) The cedar of 
Lebanon has also been lately discovered on Mount Atlas, and cones, &c. 
sent thence by the consul at Tangier, and also from Morocco. See Loudon's 
Arbor., vol. iv. 2407. It is an error to suppose that there are no young 
cedars, or that the accumulation of cones and leaves prevents future growth, 



164 



GEOLOGICAL 



REMAINS. 



The last link in the range of Lebanon (the Jebel 
Akkar) may be noted as containing the highest point 
of the whole range. That point in its southern portion 
runs up to the height of ten thousand five hundred feet, 
— which is probably fifteen hundred feet higher than 
Mt. Hermon. These eight unequal links, as far as we 
know at present, form the divisions of the long range 
of Mt. Lebanon, which, commencing on the north and 
running south-southwest, terminates nearly east of Sidon. 
The corresponding range of Anti-Lebanon runs from the 
same latitude east of Sidon, and seems to bend over 
more toward the east, and forms with its branches the 
western boundary of the plain of Damascus. It is not 
so thickly settled as Lebanon, nor is it so separable into 
distinct links as the western range. 1 

From the specimens collected by myself and others 
— and all of which have been found in this western 
range alone, a description of which would fill many 
pages, — I am convinced that a most interesting and 
important geological and mineralogical cabinet could 
be formed from this range alone. Some fragments 
have given me reason to think that ammonites — of 
which we have an example among the shells illus- 
trated on the following page — may yet be found of 



as is asserted in Loudon's work, above quoted. The author has in his 
possession two plants, each seven inches in height, which with thousands 
were growing under the shadow of the old cedars last June, (1858.) 

1 Mr. Porter in his map and work (Five Years in Damascus) turns this 
chain so far over to the east as to exceed in this respect all other maps, and 
so much so that there appears to be an error in this respect, which I have 
spoken of in the notice of the map accompanying this work. 



FINDING GOLD. 



165 



several feet diameter. I have in my possession a shell 
(ostrea) which I obtained at Beirut, and which was 
taken near the summit-ridges of the Lebanon, which, 
though fossil, exhibits in part all the rich and pearly 
hue of recent shells. 1 

In the fall of 1854, a Turkish gentleman hired some 
Arabs to dig a foundation for a villa near Sidon. One 
of them struck against an earthen vessel buried among 
the ruins ; and, to the amazement of the Arabs, out rolled 
about fifteen hundred pieces of gold. They were coins 
of the time of Alexander and of Philip, and probably 
had been buried for safe-keeping, but the owner — 
from exile or sudden death — was never able to make 
use of it or to reveal its hiding-place. The Arabs dis- 
tributed the prize among themselves ; but the governor 
of the pashalic of which Sidon is a city obtained news 
of the discovery and possession of the princely treasure 
itself, which he soon melted down, and, so far as I have 
known, the antique specimens, so much more precious 
for their history than for their intrinsic value, were lost, 
except a single specimen, of which I have had an 
engraving most carefully made, and which is presented 
herewith. 2 

1 There are forty varieties of fossil shells which have been first seen in 
Syria, and perhaps are unknown elsewhere. In all, there have been found 
up to the present time one hundred and ninetj^-three varieties, and of which 
there are in my possession drawings or the original specimens. Many of 
my first collection are missing, which might have increased the number 
to at least two hundred. Others who have been more careful to gather and 
retain than myself have additional varieties. So that it fully appears that 
this region would be a rich soil for the geologist, and one which Dr. Ander- 
son in his official report has only opened to interest. 

2 For this specimen I am indebted to J. Hosford Smith, Esq., former 



166 



COINS OF ALEXANDER. 




Several items in the history of the coins of this 
country add greatly to the interest of both classical and 
Biblical studies. I have presented them in the Appen- 
dix, No. II. 



consul at Beirut, and now Ottoman consul at New York, who obtained it 
from the vice-consul at Sidon and gave me the history of its discovery. It 
is a Greek stater, {ararTjp, standard,) struck in the early times of Alexander 
the Great. On the obverse is the helmet-head of Pallas, ornamented with a 
serpent, the face very perfect and noble in contour, the ear not exposed as 
it is in several of the staters I have seen. The reverse, a victory with a 
wreath in one hand and standard in the other, with the monogram in front 
of the figure and under the hand holding the wreath. The superscription 
is simply AAESANAPOY, (money of) ALEXANDER. The weight of the 
stater averages 132.5 grains, (distinctly shown in Dr. Win. Smith's Roman 
and Grecian Antiquities, in loco,) though sometimes made four and a half 
grains more. (Mionnet Med., Paris, 1854, sup. iii. p. 260, says 2 gros 17 
grs., — 137 grs.) The value, £1 3s. Qd., ($5.68.) They are as fresh as if 
from the mint yesterday, being almost virgin gold, with no alloy but silver, 
and that so exceedingly small in amount as to be considered accidental. 



LEAVING SIDON. 



167 



CHAPTER VII. 

SAREPTA AND THE COUNTRY BETWEEN SIDON AND TYRE. 

Before we commenced our wanderings, we informed 
Hanna that it was our intention to leave for Tyre to- 
day; but on our return we found our baggage where we 
had left it and some Arabs cosily enjoying them- 
selves in the midst. Our dragoman is shrewd; and we 
begin to suspect that a strong temptation to delay is 
presented to any dragoman when a traveller offers to 
hire him by the day. Hanna is promised six dollars 
a day to be captain-general of our whole troop, to go 
where and when we wish, to provide every thing, 
do all our cooking, packing, guiding, and fighting, and 
on extra occasions and routes to expect some extra pay- 
ment. Delay is now certainly a speculation on his part 
alone, as we are ready to start. Hanna casts up an 
imploring look to the clouds and is greeted by a few 
drops of rain. He thinks it will rain. So do we. 
After considerable controversy, we are under way, 
and leave the khan-gate at ten minutes past eleven. 
We travel southward. In twenty minutes nothing 
can be seen of Sidon but the old castle and fort of 
Louis, of which we have already spoken, and which 



168 



MIMOSA AND ORANGE TREES. 



seems built so as to form part of the southern wall. 
Our way is over a coast-plain, and is well defined by the 
tracks on the road. And now our course is south-south- 
west; and in fifteen minutes we cross the dry Wady Senik, 
not containing as much water as the road. We left the 
city with a beautiful rainbow before us ; but rainbows 
only promise rain, — which is coming rapidly upon us. 
One or two miles off, on our left, are signs of a larger 
growth of trees than any we have hitherto seen on our 
journey. We soon enter a grove of mimosa-trees, closely 
meeting overhead, and several hundred feet in length. 1 
They form a charming contrast to the desolate hills 
we have passed. A short distance farther we meet 
the delicate fringe-like tamarisk, called ittel in Egypt, 
spoken of on page 122; and then appears the fig in 
abundance, and a variety of cane; and at twenty 
minutes before twelve o'clock we pass a beautiful and 
fruited orange-grove on the right, of a dark and 
healthful green, rich in foliage and in golden fruit, 
irrigated by water drawn by the ancient wheel at the 
cistern. 2 



1 The leaf and ball-like blossoms are represented in the plate of birds. Ifc 
is the Mimosa Farnesiana, Linn. 

2 Every revolution of the chain of buckets causes as many waves of 
water to run down the stream to the garden as there are buckets on the 
wheel so there are a series of regular wavelets or pulsations. And, as we 
stand looking at the pulsations running off into the various channels, the 
sixth verse of Eccles. xii. suggests to us the thought that, whether Solomon 
understood the circulation of the blood or not, he could not have chosen a 
more appropriate figure to express the pulsating circulation of the blood 
than that drawn from "the wheel at the cistern/' In Egypt this is the 
general mode of irrigation, in connection with little channels or streams, 
which are turned frequently into a parched portion of the garden by the 



ROMAN MILE-STONE. 



169 



We now enter upon a larger plain. The sea rolls 
in, wave after wave, on the right, and about a mile to 
the left are the mountains ; while the rich and level soil 
stretches onward for several miles. The land is freer 
from rocks and darker than we have yet seen it ; and 
the region must be delightful in the spring and early 
summer. At twenty minutes before twelve o'clock, 
there are before us patches of trees — one consisting of 
about sixty — in an enclosure. The mountains are ter- 
raced like the hills on the Rhine. At eight minutes 
before twelve o'clock we pass a fragment of a prostrate 
column, some ten feet long, having the names of Impera- 
tores C^esares, L. Septimus Severus, Pius Pertinax, et 
M[arcus]. Aurelius. The burden of forty-five words, 
as far as sand and corrosion would permit, was that these 
emperors had renewed both the roads and the mile-posts 
of this province. 1 About two minutes after we crossed a 
water-bed about one hundred feet wide, though with 
only about three or four feet width of running water. 
And now, because of rocks and stones, all road dis- 
appears, and no one can recognise any pathway what- 

hand, or even the foot, by simply breaking down some little barrier ; and 
it is probable that to some such custom allusion is made in Ps. cxxvi. 4: — 
"Turn again our captivity, Lord, as the streams in the South;" i. e., turn 
us as the streams are turned toward the land that mourns for us. 

1 Travellers have contented themselves so often by supposing that so many 
have copied the inscription, that the probability is we have no correct copy 
whatever. No two that I have seen agree. De la Roque disagrees with 
Maundrell ; and, if I was correct in my own, then there is an error in La 
Roque's ; and yet, laboring under the same impression that others had made 
repeated copies, I was not so careful as to be positive in regard to the 
accuracy of my own. It may be that different columns vary in their 
inscriptions ; and, if so, there is greater reason for preserving the words. 



170 



BAD ROADS. 



ever to Tyre. But onward we press. Fifteen minutes after 
noon another little dry water-course appears, and then 
very soon a little rill, ten or twelve inches wide, running 
into the sea; and at half-past twelve o'clock another 
dry course, fifteen to twenty feet wide. Yesterday we 
passed sixteen or seventeen camels, and to-day some 
thirteen. They manage to get over these rocky beds ; but 
it is surprising how they succeed without sadly cutting 
their soft and sponge-like feet. At six minutes before 
one o'clock we ford the Nahr ez Zaherany, a stream about 
fifteen feet wide and two feet deep. Not far above us is a 
bridge of several arches. A part of the bridge has fallen, 
exposing a pavement of square blocks of stone regularly 
laid. From the bridge runs the basis of a Roman road, 
a part of which I saw on the plain this side of Sidon. 
A minute's walk from the bridge brings us to another 
fragment of a column, and again there are signs of an 
ancient road. At a quarter-past one o'clock we pass a 
stream about three feet wide, with what the guide calls a 
ruined mill on our left ; but there are other ruins around 
it, and a khan of apparently later date in ruins. 1 The 
plain soon after closes around toward the coast, and we 
meet another of the square towers spoken of before. The 



1 This is at Khan ain Burak, farther on. At a quarter past one o'clock, 
we pass a little water-course, with stream not more than ten inches wide, 
though the course is five to six feet. At two minutes past two o'clock, 
another creek, with rocky bed, seven to eight feet wide, — water eight to ten 
inches deep. We next approach the limit of the plain ; and beyond the limit, 
and on the bluff, is the tower above spoken of. The fine spring of Ain el 
Khantarah, with its shade, is three-fourths of a mile north of the Ras Sura- 
fend. (See the map.) 



HANNA INSISTS ON DELAY. 



171 



soil is dark and rich, and apparently deep. At two 
o'clock we ascend the hilly promontory Kas Surafend, 
and in twenty minutes we are upon the ruins of the 
Biblical Sarepta; but passing on to the khan, five 
minutes farther, and riding in through the door, we 
dismount to look around while waiting for our baggage. 
We would willingly have remained to make examina- 
tions, but wished to spend the Sabbath at Tyre; and, 
as it was now half-past two p.m. Saturday, we had no 
disposition to remain many minutes. But Hanna had 
been forced to submit to our wishes this morning, 
and he was evidently determined that we should 
have time sufficient for examinations at Sarepta. He 
insisted that the roads were terrible; it was raining; 
we should arrive after dark; the passes were rocky 
and dangerous in the day, — much more so in the night ; 
it was five or five and a half hours to Tyre from Sa- 
repta, and he was afraid. It was in vain that we assured 
him that we would risk it, having travelled bad roads 
before, and that we were rain-proof. Finally an idea sug- 
gested to him an apparent acquiescence, and we thought 
we had perhaps gained the point. The muleteers 
arrived, and on our return from a walk we found the 
baggage tumbling off the mules. Hanna had put his 
idea into the head of one of the muleteers ; and he was 
not going, if all the world went without him. The ruse 
was a good one. I saw that we were caught, as it was 
too late to repack and reach Tyre that night ; yet there 
was a chance to meet Hanna on his own ground. So 
we submitted, but on the terms that on Monday 



172 



TRYING TO CHARM AN ARAB. 



we should leave here, pass through Tyre, and dine and 
sleep that night some miles beyond at the castle of a 
Syrian sheik, to whom we had sent word previously. To 
all this silence was the only answer from either Hanna 
or the Arab. Our dragoman saw through the plan. It 
would be no gain to him to stay here in this miserable 
hut, and no loss to us, save in comfort. But it was too 
late for him to leave; and, taking Hanna's "heifer to 
plough with," we showed the surly muleteer that we 
were acquainted with something more terrible than 
pistols and guns. Opening my instruments, the little 
quivering needle of my sighted compass was soon point- 
ing at him, and my ivory-scaled thermometer was at his 
feet. One instrument after another revealed to him that 
all his "bearings were taken;" and he was assured that 
we would take care he did not trouble us again. It was 
useless for him to resist. He knew the effect of " the 
evil eye," and so did we; and Hanna himself had 
reason to know that he was not " up to the times." Still, 
he urged that it was impossible to accomplish our 
wishes. But he was requested to say nothing further; 
and we proposed to the Arab that the baggage and 
tents should be sent over directly across the country 
to the castle and we go on to Tyre. 

" Even then," persisted Hanna, " it will be impossible 
to stop at Tyre a moment if we should leave so early as 
eight o'clock. It will take us till midnight to reach the 
castle." 

"Eight o'clock! Every one of us must be in the 
saddle and off before sunrise." 



OUR QUARTERS. 173 

"Will you have breakfast before you leave?" 

"Certainly. On Monday morning early — say three 
o'clock — I will wake you. Preparations shall be made 
and completed, and we be off before sunrise." 

" Insh, wullah !" was the* surly reply. 

But our incantations with the Arabs were more ef- 
fectual than force or even "backshish." We agreed to 
wake them on Monday morning at one o'clock, so as to 
give them ample time ; and the baggage entire was to be 
at the castle before midnight. Our instruments were to 
be shut up and the evil eye averted. Agreed ! Putting 
his fingers upon his eyes, in token of the certainty of 
fulfilment, the bargain was made. Hanna and our- 
selves had no further conversation, and we prepared to 
examine our quarters. 

The completion of our agreement seemed the signal of 
attack from a more vexatious and inextricable trouble. 
Our khan was densely inhabited by a minute variety of 
little black and brown " assassins," which would afford 
entomologists one of those " unexplored fields" of which 
we hear so much, and to which our naturalists with 
pins and hooks would be welcome even by the Bedouins 
themselves. Yet these last seem positively "case- 
hardened," and take the plague " naturally," with which 
every traveller is forced to become acquainted, and of 
which there is no alleviation but a determined resigna- 
tion, which will teach one how much he can endure with- 
out dying outright ! Yet in this room there was an ele- 
vation above the floor for beds ; and we were about to be 
accommodated without any regard to the character of 



174 



TAME BIEDS. 



the place or the indescribable state in which one might 
imagine a stable to be which had been used for so long 
a period that parts of its "strata" had become almost 
"fossil" from age. Across the road we found a better 
place, — a room ten by twelve feet, with two little win- 
dows, blocked up to keep out the rain, and a door five feet 
high, with cracks and holes such that we had to put up 
our tarpaulins to exclude the wind. These curtains re- 
duced us to the necessity of using candle-light. More- 
over, our floor of earth was damp, and we were wet, 
bespattered with mud, and cold. There was no fire to 
cheer us save what could be seen in a little earthen 
furnace with much smoke and a handful of coals. 

Our Italian friend offers us any dry clothing he may 
have, waits upon us as though he were our servant, is 
very obliging, and has desired that we would permit 
him to accompany us to America. He appears to be a 
wanderer; but of his history we know nothing. Soon 
our arrangements for " bed and board" are made, and 
we console ourselves with the expectation of examining 
the ruins of Sarepta. Over our heads are two little 
nests and one bird, which seems, without any alarm, to 
be perfectly at home in either. How the little fellow 
endures the smoke of the furnace and that of the pipe 
I cannot tell. "Walking out from our "palace" and look- 
ing north, the view of the ruins of Sarepta appears as 
represented on the next page. In the New Testament 
the name is Sarepta, and in the Old, Zarephath. 1 



See Scripture references in Geographical Appendix. 



RUINS OF SAREPTA. 175 




RUINS OF SAREPTA. 



There are seven fig-trees, gnarled and aged, standing 
upon the ruins, where there is scarcely one stone in order 
upon another, excepting those found beneath the surface. 
In one place was a pedestal of white marble, like an 
oblong altar, with partially-erased reliefs upon two sides. 
In another place was fine Corinthian capital of white 
marble, somewhat injured. Its base we think we recog- 
nised in one which we found on the water's edge several 
hundred feet off. This base was united with the rock, 
as if the rock had once been soft and the base had been 
pushed into it while in that state. The ruins in some 
places reach quite down to the waters of the sea. In an- 
other place we found a partial excavation, exposing 
stones of very large size, and forming a circular founda- 
tion; and close at hand was a broken shaft, several feet 



176 



RELICS. 



in length and about one foot in diameter, with an iron 
pin in one end. The pin appears to be surrounded by 
lead, which was poured in when in a melted state to fill up 
the interstices between the iron and the marble. In the 
wall of our khan there is set a marble mortar ; and near 
the door, in the mud of the wall, is a broken column, 
with other fragments, apparently from the ruins. In 
another place we descended eight or ten feet by means of 
rude steps to a spring running under a rock, and over the 
water there was an arch as of a vault, evidently ancient. 
A light green glass appears scattered everywhere; and 
some which we dug out seems united with the rock, 
as if it formerly was a part of a glass-furnace. My 
friend picked up a piece of very pretty agate; and 
fragments of chalcedony are to be found not far from the 
ruins, some specimens of which I brought away with me. 
Large quantities of broken and crushed pieces of pot- 
tery were to be seen everywhere ; and I picked up a 
fragment of a six-sided glass rod, tinged as if it had 
passed through the fire. It appears that the natives 
are in the habit of taking from the broken ruins building- 
material to build up the new Sarepta, now removed 
east of the ruins to the side of a hill perhaps three- 
quarters of a mile off, and called Sarafend. On the 
sea-side of the ruins is a large mass of stones, arranged 
as if to form a wall or wharf. In some places the stones 
are large, and in others appear more like a conglome- 
rate rock, or perhaps a conglomerate of ruins, and 
looking more modern than the rest. From a portion 
of the latter I easily extracted a very smooth slab of 



SINGULAR SPONGE. 



177 



blue-grained marble, quite thin, — only three-eighths of 
an inch, — the sides of which were planes with a paral- 
lelism of singular accuracy. Much might be found of 
interest here by excavation. The fragments are totally 
unlike anything modern, and suggest that the place was 
once of no small repute. Many of the fragments are 
ploughed into the soil beyond what appears to be the 
bounds of the city, which probably was large enough to 
contain from four to five thousand inhabitants. The 
sea-shore is covered in places with various-colored weeds, 
very small and delicate, of which we have correctly- 
delineated specimens in the plate of flowers in this 
volume. At one place they were so numerous that for 
the moment it appeared as though we were in the 
neighborhood of a cotton or calico print-factory and the 
refuse was in a little channel before us. They are some- 
what similar to what we have found on sea-coasts in the 
United States ; and every shade that adds beauty to the 
ornaments usually made on the southern coast of Eng- 
land, and especially upon the Isle of Wight, is found 
at this place. Here we also found the green and circular 
shell-fish called echinus, 1 which when living is covered 
with spines, and whose shell is so beautifully perforated 

1 The echinides, otherwise called "urchins," have a calcareous shell 
covered with long spines, which are sometimes articulated and fixed upon 
movable tubercles. The shell is pierced with a great number of small 
holes, from each of which issues a tube or retractile sucker, through which 
the animal breathes. They have been named ambulacra. Sometimes the 
holes extend all round the body, and sometimes only over a part. 
Their number, their form, and the respective position of the two intestinal 
canals seem to characterize some of the genera. They feed on small fish, 
and have a complicated apparatus for a mouth. See Catalogue Roy. Mus. 
of Nat. Hist., Paris. 

12 



178 



GIRLS PUT "ON DUTY." 



with series of air-holes. Some of the specimens of coral, 
in the form of leaves, are white and beautiful, and sea- 
crabs and Crustacea are found of an articulation and of a 
diversity in size and color very interesting to the natural- 
ist. The sponges picked up on the shore are remarkable, 
and gives evidence that the most valuable varieties are 
not far off. A most singular specimen of silicious sponge 
was found here by myself, and when picked up left in 
the hand innumerable little transparent thorns, which, 
under the microscope, were like minute hollow glass 
stings. A friend, attempting to squeeze it, found remain- 
ing in his hand a large number of as it were glass hairs, 
so minute, sharp, and brittle that they were not extracted 
until after hours of effort. This specimen belongs to a 
variety of the sponge called Halicondria. 1 I also 
obtained a large piece of volcanic pumice, containing 
many minute fragments of minerals which I had found 
near the top of Vesuvius. 2 

We returned to our khan. I find that the owner 
of the khan has two children, both girls, whom he 
treats as if they were boys, subjecting them not only 
to many of the duties, but even of the habits, of boys. 



1 From ale, the sea. The name of sponge shows that it was early noticed 
for its peculiar qualities. Irroyyoe, or ccjoyyoe., is derived from cdtyya, to 
squeeze. 

" Then with a sponge he drest 
The face all over, neck and hands, and all his hairy breast." 

Homer's Iliad, hk. xviii.. by Chapman. 

See Hist, of Brit. Sponges, p. 93, George Johnston, M.D., Edinburgh, W. 
H. Lizars, Edinburgh, 1842, where is figured a silicious sponge similar to 
the one described. 

2 These specimens haye been placed in the Academy of Natural Sciences 
at Philadelphia. 



HOSTESS ASCENDANT. 



179 



The eldest — about eight or nine years of age — rides 
the mule to water, and seems quite expert as a little 
horseman; for she always rides as a boy would, — "bare 
back," with a foot on either side, — so that I could 
scarcely believe, until expressly told, that they were 
both girls. The Turks care little for girls, and con- 
sider themselves childless so long as they are not fathers 
to boys. But, if girls are to be treated after this manner, 
we see no reason why the father of a girl should hold 
himself childless. The youngest is an active little 
creature, and bears the name Hanefa. The hostess 
evidently holds the "rod," woman though she is; for, 
when another party arrived, just after we had entered our 
quarters, and obtained permission of the Arab owner 
of the place to occupy a corner of the khan used as a 
mosque, the old lady set upon her husband with such a 
stormy vocabulary that it was worth a ride of ten 
miles over the rocks to hear the Arabic spoken with 
such rapidity, vociferation, and passion. The result 
was that the man was forced to yield to the piety of 
his wife, and the new-comers slept in the stable in 
company with the mules, horses, and the little " black 
assassins" before referred to. 

Zarephath seems to have derived its name from 
some characteristics of the inhabitants; and the opinion 
is plausible that formerly this was a place of furnaces, 
where either metals or glass, or both, were melted and 
fabricated. 1 And there can be no doubt, as Sidon was 

1 The name signifies "a melting" or "liquifying." C"|"lV> zaraph, to 
melt, or, with Gesenius, " to smelt." 



180 



Elijah's fountain. 



described by Homer as the most influential and most 
artistic city of his times, wonderful for its skill in 
working brass and silver, and as this was one of the 
44 daughters/' — as smaller places depending upon another 
were called, — that Zarephath also partook of that enter- 
prise of Sidon in reference to which Homer speaks so 
plainly. 1 The covered fountain discovered amid its ruins, 
which is used even now, was probably one of the ancient 
features of the town; and, as fountains are not fre- 
quently lost, or, if so, do not spring up in settled 
towns, perhaps this fountain was in existence before 
this city was built, and was of value in very early times, 
— even in the drought during Elijah's life, — and then 
made Sarepta a desirable place of resort. This would 
afford a reason why the prophet said to the widow, 
when he met her out of the gates of the city, u Fetch 
me, I pray thee, a little water in a vessel, that I may 
drink," requesting her at the same time to bring 
him " a morsel of bread" in her hand. All this shows 
that the inhabitants depended upon a supply of water 
within the city ; and these facts lead us to think that these 
crumbling arches cover the spring from which the prophet 
drank when all other fountains in the vicinity had failed. 2 

1 Homer speaks of Sidon as abounding in brass, {woAvxcdiKog, Odys. o. 424.) 
Again, as exceedingly skilful in art, [wotodauSaXoi, highly-wrought emboss- 
ing in high style of beauty and art, and used in reference to metals, tp. 743.) 
Describing a silver vase, he represents the speaker as proving its -beauty 
by a simple reference to the fact that it was made by the Sidonians. See 
Odyss. v. 285; II. z. 290; Odyss. 6. 618, 619, o. 118, 119, 6. 84, where the 
splendor and excellence of Sidonian art and manufacture and the skill of 
female servants not only, but of the daughters of the free citizens, are de- 
scribed. Sarepta was " a city of Sidon." 

2 Menander, the historian of Tyre, in his Acts of Ethbaal, [Ithobal.] king 



"no accounting for taste." 



181 



Sarepta was evidently once a place of beauty and 
wealth and of enterprise. Even the present half-buried 
ruins are proofs; but those found about a.d. 1300 fully 
" indicated its ancient splendor." 1 At that time there 
were eight modern houses. There are none there now, 
— not even the mosque and hermit's cell of which an- 
other traveller speaks, a.d. 172 3. 2 There are excavated 
tombs near the base of the hills not far off, which have 
been thought to belong to the ancient city. 3 See Ap- 
pendix IV. for other matters suggested by this visit. 

In the evening, at dinner, which of necessity was 
almost always by candle-light, we were treated to at 
least the sight of some Syrian birds which we had 
shot after our arrival; but, upon cutting into the 
birds, by the dim light of our candle, we were not 



of Tyre, as quoted by Josephus, (Antiq. viii. c. 13, 2,) mentions the fact 
of a want of rain felt at Tyre for a time, which answered to a part of the 
time of the drought in the reign of Ahab, only that the history of Menander 
speaks of it as for one year, whereas our Saviour says three years and six 
months in his discourse at Nazareth, (Luke iv. 25.) And the same length 
of time is recorded in James v. 17. But the manner in which it is related 
by Menander shows that it must have been more than one year; for he says 
that it was from Hyperberetoeus to the same month of the succeeding year ; 
i.e. from September to September. (See Appendix III.) Now, from March 
to September there is no rain in any year: hence this time is to be added. 
Buthe speaks of Tyre, where there is rain even at the present time when 
there is no rain in the interior, or where the long drought was in the time 
of Ahab. The hygrometrical states vary in this respect even at the present 
day. This record of a drought, agreeing in time with Ahab's reign, and 
from the Tyrian annals, is a singular verification of the correctness of 
Scripture history, for these histories are totally distinct, and afford the only 
known record of a drought by the Tyrians. 

1 Brocardus, as quoted by Rob. Bibl. Res., iii. 413. 

2 De la Roque, Voy. de Syrie, &c. : — "Nous y vimes une petite mosquee en 
dome batie sur le bord de la mer," &c. 

3 Bibl. Res. iii. 414. 



182 



SABBATH THOUGHTS. 



a little surprised when we discovered that Nicolo had 
not permitted even the scratch of his knife to be made 
in one of them, but, having removed the feathers, 
had cooked them as they were, giving us the benefit 
of all that remained within. Nicolo was equally sur- 
prised at our objection, but supposing, according to the 
old adage, that there was no accounting for tastes, 
promised to improve hereafter. 

The Sabbath, as a "sweet day of rest," was by no 
means unwelcome, though in this lonely place. By an 
easy calculation, we were soon acquainted with the dif- 
ference of time between this meridian and that of the land 
of our home. Thoughts of distant scenes, commingling 
with those suggested by the mountains, plains, and ruins 
around us, almost permitted us to feel in our seasons of 
devotion as though we had transplanted the interests of 
Western worship into the land where the precepts and 
scenes of the Scriptures had their origin. It required but 
little effort of imagination to restore the cities and re- 
construct the ruined walls and temples, and walk where 
lived and spoke and acted the characters of ancient times, 
full of that dignity of simplicity that eminently cha- 
racterizes the words and faith of the people and prophets 
of other days. Those were days when the faltering, misty 
faith of the present was unfelt, and though they walked 
not by sight, yet the mysteries of the future, being felt 
realities, gave that sublimity of character which seemed 
always associated with the early patriarchs and pro- 
phets, whose feet once trod on the land where now we 
too were worshippers. 



RUINS OF ADLUJNT. 



183 



On Monday morning, 1 at half-past one o'clock, 
my little alarm-clock sounded its call, and, despite 
some remonstrance from Mohammedans and Chris- 
tians combined, we were all aroused; but it was five 
o'clock before we were mounted. We left our mule- 
teers to make their way across the country, according 
to agreement, and started for Tyre. The air was 
pleasant, the moon bright, and we pressed on, passing 
after twenty-seven minutes a stone wall two feet thick, 
enclosing a field of several acres, and the only un- 
broken stone wall we have yet met with. About 
thirty minutes after passing a stream four or five 
feet wide, we came (at six o'clock) upon the ruins of 
Adlun, stretching for about four or five hundred yards 
along our way. For a mile past we have passed occa- 
sional indistinct ruins, and apparently a stone road; 
but now the ruins present the appearance of walls, 
rooms, and foundations of small stone houses. Our at- 
tention is especially directed to two rooms, apparently 
about ten feet square, and to a cistern, at the mouth five 
or six feet square and eleven or twelve deep, being beneath 
larger than at the top. As at Sarepta, the name of the 
ruins is found connected with a village eastward and 
not far off. Near this place, in the hills, are excavated 
tombs, and farther east is the little village El Ansariyeh. 
These tombs have been spoken of frequently as un- 



1 Yesterday the temperature at fifteen minutes before nine was 55°, at 
twenty-five minutes past three p.m. 59J°, and at seven o'clock 58°, light 
wind S.S.E. To-day, Monday, at four o'clock xV.m., 56°, clouds, with light 
wind coursing S.S.W. 



184 



EICH SOIL. 



usually large and important, and one in particular 
is noticed. 1 

How strange, with the cool, damp sea-wind blowing 
on us, do these nameless ruins appear beneath the 
pale beams of the bright moon as we pass on our silent 
and lonely course, meditating on 

" Life and thought long pass'd away, 
Side by side, 

Leaving door and windows wide. — 
Careless tenants they." 

Five or ten minutes after, we pass cultivated fields, 
unenclosed; and soon come in sight of Tvre. Scarcely 
a house can be seen, nor can the city be distinguished 
from the rocky promontory running into the sea. We now 
pass the richest black and mellow soil we have yet seen 
on this Phoenician plain. It is about four feet deep; and 
the luxuriant vegetation proves its excellence. We were 
nearly seven miles distant from Tyre, at the point from 
which we obtained the first view; and, though in a few 
minutes after we lose sight of the city, we were greeted 
with a beautiful sunrise. It is now a few minutes before 
seven. We have the crimson clouds above us, with two 
broken and widely-separated columns of color near the 
horizon, which fancifully look as if they once sustained 
a magnificent rainbow; around us spreads the rich plain 
of Tyre with its oleanders and shrubbery, and in the 

1 Mearah of Joshua xiii. 4 has been suggested as possibly at this place, 
as that word signifies "cave," and is spoken of as the " Mearah that is 
beside the Zidonians." It Avas noticed by William of Tyre, a.d. 1182, as 
"the Tyrian cave in the Territory of Sidon occupied by the Crusaders as a 
stronghold." See Bibl. Res. iii. 412. Dr. Robinson, however, thinks it 
questionable. 



L E X T E S. 



185 



distance Tyre itself rises plainly in sight, stretching out 
into the sea. At ten minutes before seven o'clock we 
come to the following bridge and water-course, with a 
stream five or six feet wide, forming the Abu l'Aswad. 




I have sketched it because it is interesting for its un- 
broken arch of thirty-five stones, being quite thin, as 
fragile in appearance as represented, the pressure down- 
ward keeping the stones in their places. We passed 
through the current and onward. For some time we 
could see a yellow discoloration upon the sea, occasioned 
by the stream of some river mingling with the blue 
waters of the Mediterranean; and at twenty-five 
minutes before eight we found the cause in the Leontes, 
called Kasimiyeh, or " the divider," probably from the 
fact that it is the separating line between two districts. 1 
Above the point from which it issues from the Valley of 
Buka'a it takes the name of Litany, which is supposed to 
be a derivative from Leontes. 2 We have traced this river 

1 The Belacl es Shukif on the north and Belad Besharah on the south. 
2 Robinson, Bibl. Res., gives the history of the name, vol. iii. 409. 



186 



FIRST 



UNBROKEN BRIDGE. 



before, (p. 158.) The guides pronounced the word Kasi- 
miyehas if it was " katlimee-e." The river is about forty 
feet wide, flowing deep and strong along a channel 
which winds exceedingly just before reaching the sea. 
We crossed it on the only perfect bridge we have yet 
seen, and which, from the history of the bridges thrown 
over this river, must be modern, or since 1738, as a 
traveller found a bridge here then of two arches, 1 and 
this has but one, presenting the following appearance. 




An arch on the left seems to have existed as on the 
right, and both were pointed, only the centre arch 
being circular. Two marble shafts are worked into the 
wall on each side of the right-hand small arch. 2 

1 Pococke, in 1738, ii. 84. A new bridge is described by Turner as being 
in this place in 1815, — formerly one of four arches. It was described by 
Maundrell and D'Arvieux about 1660. See Rob. Res. iii. 409. 

2 The bridge I should think was thirty feet wide ; and my horse took 
twenty-four steps of the forefoot in passing over, which on measurement 
made it about sixty feet. Crows appear in large numbers; and our Arabs 
at this place, as on a former occasion, used the Arab ng, ty, which is a diffi- 
cult sound ; and yet, though pronounced in the Hebrew by many with the 



PROBABLE GEOLOGICAL SUBSIDENCE. 



187 



Here we meet with great quantities of the bulb-root 
which the Arabs call the wild onion. It spreads over 
acres of the rich land around, has no odor of the onion, 
and, on examination, appears to be of that variety of 
liliaceas known as the squill, so much used in medicine, 1 
— though, from the absence of flowers, we could not be 
certain. The thistles are rank; and the prettiest variety 
is seen in the plate of flowers. The oleander (Nerium) is 
in rich profusion, exhibiting fine flowers. At half-past 
eight o'clock we obtain another sight of Tyre, about three 
miles off; and at the same time we are passing fragments 
of polished marble and pieces of pottery, and occasionally 
we find the rock has been hewn into a variety of forms. 
There is evidently a basis-rock along this shore, which 
has undergone some local change, perhaps a subsidence ; 
for it has been cut away and prepared for foundations 
to houses, which, however, had the sea always pre- 
served the same relative level, would have been unin- 
habitable. In some places, excavations of a few inches 
disclose foundations; and there are fragments of hewn 
marble within so near the water that they are washed 
by every high wave. 

At twenty minutes after nine we pass a rivulet 
which comes from under a bank, and, five minutes after, 

same sound as was doubtless pronounced after with the same sound as 
that of the Arabic guttural. I am informed by Dr. Leeser, of the synagogue 
Mikve Israel, Philadelphia, that, according to the Talmud, no one was 
allowed to read the Law who could not make the proper difference between 
the and The Arabs recognise the sound in the cry of the crow, and 
call the bird by a root-form of the word used in the Scriptures to designate 
the crow. 

1 Scilla maritima. 



188 



VIEW OF ANTI-LEBANON. 



another, several feet wide ; and ruins and fragments are 
met with constantly. For some time back we have 
seen snow upon the ranges of Lebanon, five peaks of 
which are easily counted ; and now, from a point a mile 
off from Tyre, there is a position, somewhat elevated, 
from which a splendid view of the eastern range, or 
Anti-Lebanon, can be had, enabling us to see that the 
course is northeast, and that some of the summits are 
covered with snow. At about three miles from Tyre we 
could see a dome-like mountain, which our guide assured 
us was Mount Tabor. We stopped when about a mile 
off for about ten minutes; and the following view was 




then obtained of modern Tyre. There are six vessels in 
port, one with French colors. The houses, gates, five 
palm-trees, and minaret are sketched with a minute 



ARRIVAL AT TYRE. 



189 



regard to reality; we need not, therefore, describe the 
place any further than to add that the city-gate in the 
wall is on the left of the view, under two unequal open- 
ings, and that there is a deep excavation in the earth 
somewhat farther to the left. Kocks appear jutting out 
into the sea, as in the view. We skirted the shore, and 
at about twenty-five minutes after nine o'clock were 
within the walls of Tyre. 



190 



CATHEDRAL AT TYRE. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

TYRE — ITS HISTORY AND LEGENDS. 

Immediately after our entrance we were introduced 
to a condition of things very nearly resembling a barn- 
yard. We were the objects of not a little curiosity as we 
wound our way through narrow streets, like those at 
Sidon, and at last entered the court-yard of a khan. 
Here we dismounted, and, taking a guide, commenced 
our examinations. The guide had acquired a few 
words of French, which he made use of whenever he 
was unwilling that any around should understand him. 
After passing the bazaars, we were taken to what is 
evidently the great relic in the opinion of the present 
Tyrians, namely, the ruins of the ancient church. 
These ruins are interesting; and after some difficulty 
the measurements and plan on the following page were 
obtained. 

The nave of the church is almost east and west. The 
eastern end of the line of one hundred and thirty-five 
feet, represented in the plan, is 12° departure south from 
the magnetic direction. If the wall, therefore, of this 
building in the time of St. Helena was skilfully placed 
due east and west, then the variation of the compass 



ANCIENT VARIATION OF THE COMPASS. 191 




at that time could not have been much more than 
3° 30' W., as it now is about 8° 30' W. But the perfect 
skilfulness of the architects of that day in determining 
positions is not to be relied upon, — as I afterward found 
in taking the direction of a ruined church on the hill of 
Samaria. The plan of three apses in the east of the 
church is peculiar and pleasing, and an arched member 
of the three still hangs over where the altar once stood. 1 
Back of these ruins are numerous others; and there is 
one solitary pillar, the lower half of which is beneath the 
soil, like that " nameless column with its buried base" at 
Rome. Who knows what interesting discovery might be 
connected with its uncovering ? Near it some Arabs were 
digging for building-material, which is shipped from this 



1 The plan is that of an accurate measurement from east to west, as is 
also the circles of the apses ; but the width from north to south of the nave 
was not measured. 



192 BOYISH IMPUDENCE. 

port; and they had uncovered large stones and one or 
two shafts of marble which were lying horizontally. The 
height of debris over these remains was fully sixteen 
feet by measurement, several of the columns being six 
feet in circumference. This was the circumference also 
of the leaning column; but another was nine feet; 
and this was fluted. The soil for some distance around 
seems to be formed upon ruins and debris of a time an- 
terior to the erection of the church, to the ruins of which 
we again returned. The walls form a part of the city- 
walls and appear to be the work of the same age. The 
interior of what was once a splendid building is now com- 
pletely filled up with little huts with mud roofs; and 
several fig-trees grow in the ancient nave and transept. 
In one of the yards of these huts we found a double 
column of red granite, measuring twenty-six feet eight 
inches in length and nearly six feet in diameter. Near 
it, and parallel with it, was another of smaller size. As 
we were leaving, a little native threw a stone, striking 
my friend in the face, knocking his spectacles off, 
which formed the only protection to his eye from the 
stroke. The child did not seem to be conscious of 
doing any thing wrong; and our guide appeared to think 
the boy deserved praise for the adroitness with which 
he aimed the missile. Some girls, carrying water upon 
their heads, as we entered the gate, were not only of 
fair complexion, but pretty, and very erect, — a trait 
characterizing the girls generally, and probably due 
to the fact that they are the water-carriers of the 
country and the act of balancing the pail on their 



HISTORICAL EPITOME. 



193 



heads requires a careful regard to the position of 
the body. We now traversed the shore and the point 
running into the sea. Here, in the water, were more 
than forty broken shafts lying in one heap, all apparently 
of a gray granite. A wharf, or "break-water," runs 
along the shore for about half a mile, in some parts 
from fifteen to twenty feet in height; and into this 
wall is built in several places pieces from the granite 
columns, showing that they were used to form parts of 
the biiildino-material of the wharf at the time of its 
erection. Men were fishing from the rocks, and some 
carrying out and preparing to spread their nets over the 
fragments of ancient palaces and buildings of great 
beauty now lying scattered in the sea. Farther to 
the north of the peninsula I found some half-buried 
capitals of a pink variegated marble. The crystal- 
lization is very fine and the marble is evidently imported, 
as no such material is found in Syria. The order appears 
to be a plain Corinthian, and, from the volutes, probably 
Roman, — though the excessive corrosion precludes cer- 
tainty. 

There are facts and legends connected with the 
history of Tyre of a variety, beauty, and importance 
which, though they attest to the fact that Sidon was 
its parent, add an interest to Tyre which appertains 
neither to Sidon nor to any other city in the world. 
There is, however, a necessity for a previous know- 
ledge of the general history of the city, which I 
think can be summarily given in the following 
epitome. 

13 



EARLIEST DATE. 



2200 B.C. — The present peninsula was probably first 
settled by a colony from Sidon, who took possession of 
what was then a rocky island about two hundred and 
fifty or three hundred yards from the mainland. A 
very ancient pagan author, who wrote about the time 
of Gideon, (e.g. 1250, 1 ) asserts that its settlement was 
soon after Sidon and not many years after the Flood. 

On the little island were first erected the temple 
of Hercules and a few dwellings, at what time pre- 
cisely is uncertain, — probably about one hundred and 

1 According to the common chronology. This author -was Sanchoniathon, 
who, in his history of hero-worship, derived from Phoenician annals, says that 
" Astarte, called the greatest goddess, reigned in Phoenicia with consent of 
Saturn. Travelling about, she found a star [a gem? J which had fallen 
from heaven, and, taking it up, she consecrated it in the holy island Tyre." 
Isaiah (xxiii. 7) seems to intimate the antiquity of insular Tyre, notwith- 
standing inland Tyre was remaining in his time. Strabo, speaking of 
insular Tyre, says it was doubtful which was the more ancient city, 
Sidon or Tyre, (xvi. 1097.) Many generations before Cadmus came to 
Thebes, Hercules was worshipped in insular Tyre, (Arrian, in Expedition. 
Alex. lib. ii. 125, 126.) Agenor was the father of Cadmus, and therefore 
could not have built Tyre, as Curtius asserts, (lib. iv. cap. 4, \ 19.) 
He might have been the founder of inland Tyre mentioned by Joshua, (xix. 
29,) — though that is thought to be older than Agenor. The oldest account 
after Sanchoniathon' s is that of Herodotus, which he had from the Tyrian 
priests of Hercules, that the city and temple of Hercules were built at the 
same time two thousand three hundred years before his time. Herodotus 
was born about 484 b.c. If, therefore, this is reduced to the commonly- 
accepted chronology of the Old Testament, it would at the latest date the 
settlement of Tyre soon after that of Sidon, and show that both Josephns, 
(Antiq. viii. c. 3,) who founds it two hundred and forty years before the 
founding of Solomon's temple, (1012 b.c. : see 1 Kings vi. 1,) and Justin, 
(from Pomp. Trogus, lib. xviii. c. 3,) who says Tyre was built one year 
before the taking of Troy, 1184 b.c, are not to be relied upon implicitly; 
and, moreover, that it is probable the island was first settled, then the inland 
city, which after its destruction by Nebuchadnezzar (571 b.c.) was called 
Palse Tyrus, or Old Tyre, as the new Tyre was rebuilt on the island. This 
seems to be the most probable account, and that which is best sustained 
by history. See Jackson's Chron. Antiq., 3 vols. 4to, London, 1752, vols. i. 
and iii., pp. 466 and 30, with authorities. 



GREATEST PROSPERITY. 



195 



fifty years after the Flood. 1 Soon after, a colony from 
the island built the city on the mainland. This last re- 
ceived its name from that of the island, which had been 
called, in the Phoenician annals as early as the time of 
Astarte, who ruled in the country, " the holy island Tyre." 2 
1444 B.C. — The first notice of Tyre by name in 
the Scriptures occurs Joshua xix. 29. It was then 
" a strong city," on the mainland. Its earliest 
recorded history appears in the Phoenician annals of 
the inland Tyre, Astarte having been queen of the 
island Tyre. 

1046 B.C. — The first king was Abibalus, the years of 
whose reign are not recorded. He was followed by Hirom, 
or Hiram, his son, who reigned fifty-three years. This is 
the Hiram, king of Tyre, who aided Solomon in building 
the temple at Jerusalem, — called also Huram, (2 Chron. 
ii. 3.) He pulled down the old temples and built two 
new ones, dedicated to Hercules and Astarte. 3 He then 
enlarged Tyre, so as to bring it nearer to the temple 
of J upiter Olympius, which had been separated from it. 
In the temple of Hercules the Phoenician records were 
probably kept. 4 During this reign Tyre probably 
reached its greatest glory and pride. Descriptions of 
its power, commerce, and wisdom as existing at this 
period show that in splendor, luxury, and beauty, 
it was unequalled by any city in the world existing 

1 Herodotus, as quoted supra. 

2 Sanchoniathon. See Jackson's Chron., vol. iii. p. 30. 

3 Joseph. Antiq. viii. 5, and Cont. Apion., lib. i., quoting Menander, the 
Phoenician historian. 

4 Dius in same author, Cont. Apion. 



196 



jezebel's early bias. 



before or since ; and the description by Ezekiel (xxvii.) 
is a splendid picture of its wealth and influence. 1 

944 B.C. — After Hiram's death six kings reigned suc- 
cessively; and after them Ithobal, priest of Astarte. 
This is the king called Ethbaal (the same as Ithbaal) 
in 1 Kings xvi. 31, where it is recorded that Ahab mar- 
ried Jezebel, who was the daughter of this king Ithobal. 
Jezebel was educated from her infancy at Tyre, amid the 
splendor of the worship of Baal and Ashtoreth : hence 
the trouble which came upon Ahab through the idola- 
trous influence of Jezebel's education. Jezebel's father 
is called a Sidonian, though king of Tyre, because all 
the descendants of Sidon were called by that name. The 
Tyrian chronology agrees with that of Scripture in refer- 
ence to the incidents of this reign; and soon after the mar- 
riage of Jezebel the drought in Phoenicia is mentioned, 
which did not continue so long in Phoenicia as in Judea. 

The probability is that in the prosperous days of Hi- 
ram the mainland and the island were first connected by 
bridges and by an aqueduct, thus supplying those residing 
on the island with water. At all events, Josephus thought 
Tyre was upon the island in his day, as, in the letter 
which Hiram wrote to Solomon, Hiram is recorded as 
saying that the inhabitants dwelt on the island. 2 It is 



1 That the prophet does not speak of Tyre only as then existing-as proved 
by the ninth verse, where he is describing what actually took place, — 1 
Kings v. 18. 

2 Joseph. Antiq. viii. 2. This is a repetition in Josephus's words of 
1 Kings v. 3-9, and 2 Chron. ii. 3-16; and, as Whiston surmises, this saying 
may be only a commentary of Josephus upon Hiram's words. See Whis- 
ton, note, in loco. 



tyre's first sorrows. 



197 



probable that, as Hiram enlarged Tyre, some of the in- 
habitants removed to the island in his time. And this 
settlement on the island enabled it to withstand the 
siege of Shalmaneser, (720 B.C.,) when an important 
part of the city was there placed, and the city on the 
island began to be called Old Tyre. 1 The old Tyre 
was taken, the inhabitants having previously moved to 
the island Tyre, which kept the Assyrian power em- 
ployed at a blockade for five years, and finally resisted 
all attempts to reduce it. The islanders afterward 
rebuilt on the mainland. 

584 B.C. — Nebuchadnezzar next laid siege to Tyre, 
during the reign of a second Ithobal, and took it, not 
until after thirteen years' siege, during which time his 
forces were greatly wasted. He then destroyed it, 
according to the prophecy of Ezekiel 2 in his gorgeous 
description of its beauty and power; and it was never 
rebuilt. 3 This account has reference to the inland Tyre, 
the island-city remaining unconquered till the time of 
Alexander the Great, (332 B.C.,) who, with all his 
power, as a quaint old historian remarks, was arrested 
in his conquests, " so that his victorious armie, which 
did flie into other countreys, was glad to creep into 
this citie." 4 This he did after seven months' siege; and, 
taking the ruins of Old Tyre, he constructed the mole, 
or causeway, between the land and the island; thus 

1 See authorities quoted in Rob. Bibl. Res., vol. iii. 402. 

2 Ezek. xxviii. 36. 

3 Joseph. Antiq. x. ii. 1, and 6, 1, for the conquering of the country, and 
Cont. Apion. i. 21 for length of siege. 

* Fuller's Holy Warre, bk. ii. c. 12. 



198 



EXACT FULFILMENT OF PROPHECY. 



fulfilling the prophecy of Isaiah (xxiii.,) by whom 
the fact of the island being inhabited is distinctly men- 
tioned. The descriptions of Tyre by Ezekiel and Isaiah, 
just referred to, are not only (as Volney justly remarks) 
" a valuable picture of distant ages/' 1 but the most perfect 
epitome of her past greatness and her present desola- 
tion that can be composed. Here again the prophecy 
of Isaiah (xxiii. 15-17) that the city should return to its 
greatness and luxury as before its fall is singularly 
illustrated by the profane historian Strabo, who says 
that, notwithstanding the calamities it suffered under 
Alexander, it surmounted all its misfortunes and re- 
covered its greatness and commerce. 2 And when we 
reflect that Alexander utterly destroyed it, burning 
it to the ground, mercilessly putting to the sword 
all who resisted, and hanging two thousand of her 
principal citizens along the sea-shore, 3 in 332 B.C., and 
that, according to Strabo, it recovered its greatness 
and its trade again in 262 B.C., 4 exactly seventy 
years after, the prophecy of Isaiah seems most re- 
markably fulfilled, — not, as may be supposed, in con- 
tradiction to the prophecy of Ezekiel, but in exact 
accordance, the one having reference to the Tyre in- 
land, which, as it were, running away into the sea from 
the threat of Divine indignation denounced by Ezekiel, 
met there the danger predicted by Isaiah, which was ful- 



1 Volney's Syria, p. 392, Dublin, 1793. 

2 Strabo, bk. xvi. p. 1098. See Jackson's Chron. Antiq., vol. i. p. 378. 

3 Fuller, vol. ii. c. 12. 

4 Jackson's Chron. Antiq., vol. iii. p. 378. 



EARLY CHRISTIAN VISITS. 



199 



filled after the time of Ezekiel, as if the mercy of God 
was seen in first pronouncing its total destruction and 
yet depriving it of only a part of its greatness as a 
warning before executing the threat. After Alexander's 
death it came into the possession of the Seleucidas, (b.c. 
312,) who are often referred to on the coins and ruins of 
the country found at the present day. Of the Seleucidae 
we have spoken more particularly in Appendix II. In the 
time of Strabo — from B.C. 50 to a.d. 25 — it had a trade 
from two ports, and was a nourishing town, though shorn 
of its ancient glory; and, as Pliny says of Tyre in his 
time, (a.d. 77,) u all her fame was confined to the pro- 
duction of the murex and the purple." 1 It was a place 
of some prosperity in the time of our Savior, who pro- 
bably never visited it, as the passages in Matthew and 
Mark 2 quoted to sustain this opinion do not convey the 
idea of an entrance into the city, but only that of a prox- 
imity to it. The Apostle Paul once gathered a few weep- 
ing friends on the shore as he sailed from Tyre for Ptole- 
mais, (the modern Acre, twenty-six miles south.) 3 
Probably he went out of the city and took ship at 
the southern inlet or port, as Strabo speaks of two 
ports in his time, perhaps north and south of the neck 
which Alexander made. 4 



1 N. H., bk. v. I give the date of the publication of his works, which 
was two years before his death. 

2 Matt. xv. 21, Mark vii. 24, only speak of the country and borders. 

3 It would be interesting to inquire into the locality of the port from which 
the apostle sailed, as the fifth verse of Acts xxi. seems to indicate that he 
went out of the city to reach the vessel. 

4 Strabo, xvi. 2, 23; in Bibl. Res. vol. iii. 402. 



200 



THE CATHEDRAL. 



After the Seleucidge it came under the power of the 
Romans; and about the beginning of the fourth cen- 
tury it is recorded that at the dedication of the church- 
edifice of Paulinus, the seventh Bishop of Tyre, 1 the 
celebrated oration by Eusebius was delivered. 2 That 
church-building was described in high terms by Eusebius ; 
and it is highly probable that the ruins of the church 
above described are those of the church of Bishop Pau- 
linus. This may be the same cathedral-church spoken of 
as existing in the time of the Crusades, and the one where 
the German Emperor Frederick I. was buried after losing 
his life, — his horse foundering under him in a river 
when in pursuit of the Turks, June 10, a.d. 1190, — at 
seventy years of age. 3 Soon after, his son Frederick, 
who succeeded to his place in the Crusades, but died of 
the plague, is spoken of as buried near his father " in 
the cathedral-church at Tyre." 4 It is very probable 
that, if a perfect history could be obtained of Tyre as 
it existed during the second, third, and fourth centu- 
ries, it would be found that Christianity had a most 
complete ascendency; for, from the little that is found 
in the writings of Eusebius and others, it is certain that 
the influences were very great which originated and 



1 Le Quien, Orien. Christ, ii. 803. 

2 Ec. Hist. x. c. 4, — where is the record of the oration and also a ^descrip- 
tion of the church. 

3 Knolles's Hist, of the Turks, p. 66, folio, 1636. The river is therein called 
Saleph, not far from Comagena. Dr. Robinson says Calycadmus and 
Cydnus, vol. iii. 399. The emperor did not die until after he was re- 
moved from the river. 

4 Idem, 68. 



APPROACHING DESOLATION. 



201 



sustained such splendor indicated by the history and 
present ruins of this cathedral; and perhaps, as has 
been suggested, the prophecy of Isaiah was at this 
time fulfilled, — " when her merchandise and her hire 
was holiness to the Lord." 1 

Thus, it remained a Christian town, with some 
degree of prosperity, until after the incursion of Mo- 
hammed's followers in Palestine. In the time of the 
Caliph Omar, an apostate Christian, Youkenna, ac- 
complished by treachery what could not have been 
done by force. Under Christian colors, he appeared 
off the island, pretending to bring supplies to the 
Christians. Though admitted, his treachery was dis- 
covered; but, escaping from confinement, he threw 
open the gates, and the Moslem army entered. Thus, 
a.d. 638, Tyre fell under Mohammedan rule, 2 and 
remained so till the time of the Crusades, when, after 
one ineffectual attempt, it was retaken from the Turks 
on the 29 th of June, 1124, 3 not, however, until they 
were nearly starved out, and then upon very honorable 
terms; for, "though perhaps hunger shortly would 
have made the Turks digest coarser conditions, yet the 
Christians were loath to anger their enemie's valour into 
desperateness." 4 Lastly, it returned into the possession 
of the Turks, (a.d. 1291,) the Franks embarking on 

1 Isaiah xxiii. 18. Dr. Wilson with probability suggests this time as 
that of the prophecy, (ii. 226.) 

2 See authorities quoted by Irving in "Mohammed and his Successors/' 
p. 203. 

3 Knolles's Hist. Turks, p. 28. 

4 Fuller, vol. ii. p. 17 ; Will. Tyr., xii. 10, xiii. 14, et ante. 



202 



TYRE A CITY OF REFUGE. 



board their ships, and leaving the city with " quadruple 
walls on the land-side connected with a citadel on the 
island." 1 From this time it fell into ruins, and was so 
deserted that in 1610 it was u no other than a heap of 
ruins." 2 In 1697, Maunclrell saw "not so much as one 
entire house left." 3 In 1751, a traveller makes its 
population only ten inhabitants, all told. 4 Soon after 
this, (in 1766,) through the settlement of a tribe of Arabs, 
— the Metawileh, from the Buka'a and the mountains 
not far off, — the place was partially rebuilt; and the 
present population is considered to be about thirty-five 
hundred, — though it appeared to us that an actual and 
careful census would not show more than twenty-five 
hundred. 

Not long before the commencement of the Christian 
era, the right of asylum was claimed by Tyre, — a right 
which was considered so sacred that even criminals, 
having once entered the gates, were safe from their 
pursuers. Cities possessing this right were similar in 
character to the cities of refuge during the Old Testament 
times. 5 That Tyre claimed the • right is shown by the 
coins, which bear the inscription IEPA2*KAIA2TA0T, 
SACRED and (possessing the rigid) of ASYLUM. They 
occur in the time of Demetrius, (140 B.C.,) with the 
date thus:— BASIAEHS-AHMHTPIOT-TTPOT (then 

1 Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 405, contains authorities. 

2 George Sandys's Trav., 168. 3 Maundrell, March 20. 
i Hasselquist Reis., 187. 

5 Tacitus gives a short description, which shows in what sense those 
cities were regarded which claimed the right of asylum. Annals iv. \ 14. 
p. 28, Valpy's ed. 



EARLIEST INVENTIONS. 



203 



follows the above title) BOP" (money of) Demetrius the 
king of Tyre, 172 of the era of the Seleucidae. See Ap- 
pendix II. 1 

Thus we have what may be considered an epitome 
of the truthful history of Tyre; and yet in close con- 
nection w T ith this history there are legends in which 
there is nevertheless so much of interest and of pro- 
bability that they are at least worthy of mention. 
From the records which Sanchoniathon — to whom 
my readers have been previously introduced — had 
gathered, it appears that one who dwelt upon this 
spot in those distant ages when Tyre was first in- 
habited designed the first "huts w T ith reeds and 
rushes;" and his brother Usous, soon after the Deluge, 
broke off the boughs of some of the trees which 
at that time grew about Tyre, and, making the first 
canoe, ventured upon the waters near this island. 
Here also the same personage erected and "consecrated 
two pillars to Fire and Wind" (which had destroyed the 
woods about Tyre,) and " he worshipped them :" in the 
words of this ancient author, " he poured out a libation 
of the blood of such wild beasts as had been caught 
in hunting. When these [two heroes] were dead, 
their descendants consecrated to them stumps of wood 
and pillars, which they worshipped, and kept anni- 
versary-feasts in honor of them." This is an interest- 
ing fact, as it is the first mention of the deification and 
worshipping of dead men. And these pillars seem to be 



1 Numismatic Manual, Ackerman, F.S.A., London, 1840. See Mionnet, 
Med. Coins of Seleucidae. 



204 



RAS EL A 1 1ST. 



the first representations of the human form before the 
times of sculpture and painting. This consecration of 
pillars to designate the spots which were sacred is fre- 
quently mentioned by profane writers ; and in the Scrip- 
tures we find that Jacob, more than seventeen hundred 
years before Christ, set up a pillar and poured oil upon 
the top of it, and called the name of that place Bethel, 1 
God's house. Afterward these pillars were ornamented 
with carved faces, and then with hands joined to the 
sides and with feet joined together; whence doubt- 
less arose the fable, when Daedalus the sculptor (who 
lived 1750 b.c.) separated the hands and feet, that he 
made " walking images." 2 

In viewing the beautiful plain around Tyre in con- 
nection with the accounts of its size given by Pliny 3 
and others, it seems probable that the city was built 
farther to the south than has been generally sup- 
posed. Two miles and a half from the gates, in a 
direction south-southeast, are the celebrated living 
fountains, at Ras el Ain, (head of the spring,) described 
by Maundrell and others, and affording supplies of water 
which might early have invited a settlement near the 
spot. The whole plain is rich; but the irrigation 
resulting from these fountains develops an unusually 
luxuriant vegetation, very apparent even from a dis- 
tance. The early settlement in this vicinity, followed 

1 Gen. xxviii. 18. 

2 See Jackson's Chron. and Antiq., vol. iii. p. 15. 

3 Nat. Hist., v. ch. 17, says, "Its circumference, including therein Palse- 
tyrus, is nineteen miles, [Koman,] the place itself extending twenty-two 
stadia." 



GREAT 



EXTENT 



OF ANCIENT TYRE. 



205 



by a prosperity and growth which extended it over the 
plain, might, in the time of Hiram, or perhaps at a 
later period, have reached quite to the island where the 
original settlement and temples stood, near which, 
perhaps, was an early fortification or retreat, as the 
name in the original signifies a strong place in the 
sense of fortification, the same form, but slightly altered, 
being used in connection with the word " city" to express 
the fact that they were fortified. 1 There are remains 
sufficient to attest to the probability of such an extent, 
especially in view of all the circumstances of its 
past reverses. This accounts for the diversion of 
the aqueduct, which, instead of passing directly to 
the present city, traverses the plain from the foun- 
tains on a course running northeast to a part of the 
plain from which the city bears northwest, and then, 
making a circuit, branches considerably to the north 
of the city, where the continuation is lost in ruins. 2 
(See the map.) 

It is probable that the circumference given by Pliny 



1 Judges ix. 31. " They fortify ft **!^ the city against thee." (Isa. xxix. 
3.) So used for a stronghold. (Isa. xxx. 29, and in the Psalms.) Vide 
Fuerst. Concord, in loco. 

2 Dr. Stuart (Tent and Khan, p. 460) says that, from information given 
him from Mr. Thompson at Tyre, " a line drawn from Ras el Ain by Tell 
Hobesh to the shore, encircling the island, would be as nearly as possible 
nineteen miles in extent." This is said in view of Strabo's account (bk. 
xvi.) and Pliny's, as given above. But it appears to me utterly impossible 
to get a circuit of nineteen miles on the above line. Seven miles would 
completely answer that measurement. Besides, the "circuitus xix. mill, 
pass, est" of Pliny and of Strabo is only seventeen miles English. No 
ancient city of magnitude and importance equal to those of Tyre has left so 
few ruins to attest its ancient splendor. 



206 



MYSTERIOUS 



ENERGIES. 



of seventeen English miles is intended to include all the 
suburbs and immediate dependencies of Tyre, — perhaps 
those little suburban settlements called in Ezekiel " the 
daughters" of Tyre "which are in the fields." (xxvi. 6.) 
By reference to the context of Pliny it will be seen that 
he is attempting to present the reader with a contrast 
between the present state of Tyre and its former great- 
ness, — in which case he would naturally include all that 
belonged in any way to the ancient city. What a mag- 
nificent view from the heights east of Tyre must have 
presented itself in the time of Solomon to the spectator, 
as he gazed upon that city, stretching over two and a 
half miles of the richest plain in Syria, which now, in 
scattered remnants, shows only a few arches and founda- 
tions and heaps of massive columns and capitals, — the 
few that are left to certify to the almost incredible story 
of its former magnificence! Th#se feeble ruins, which 
speak as it were only in whispers, are just sufficient to 
lead the traveller to the thought that naught but super- 
natural design and mysterious energies could have swept 
so thoroughly from the surface of this plain and island the 
remains of so much grandeur. It would seem as though, 
in the words of the Scriptures, the dust " had been 
scraped from off the rock" into the water and crevices 
around; and even the remaining fragments are slowly 
disappearing. 



f 



THE AQUEDUCT. 



207 



CHAPTER IX. 

VISIT TO THE INTERIOR- — THE CASTLE OF TIBNIN. 

From Tyre we would have pursued our course along 
the coast, but at this season the brooks are overflowing; 
and we immediately entered upon the interior, according 
to our previous plan, as we expected to return by the 
coast. Entering the city, we found our company pre- 
pared for leaving ; and at a few minutes past twelve 
o'clock we pass out, having the ranges of the Lebanon 
and Anti-Lebanon plainly before us. As we ride almost 
due east, we have on the left the remains of the ancient 
aqueduct for nearly if not quite one mile from the gate, 
at which distance is the little Tell Ma'shuk, with 
ruins; and at this place it connects with a branch 
running to the north; but the main aqueduct, running 
suddenly to the south, becomes almost level with the 
ground, from an undulation in the plain itself. 
Nearer the city there are three arches complete, ave- 
raging sixteen feet in height, on the top of which 
the water ran in a gutter in some places about four 
feet wide and five feet deep. The gutter is smaller 
than formerly, on account of concretionary deposits. 
Near this spot (at Ma'shuk) is a perfect arch completely 



208 



MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF TYKE. 



covered with stalactite formations, having the form 
of icicles after an overflow, reaching completely to the 
ground, and of the same color as the stone, — a dark 
brown. At ten minutes before one o'clock we ascended 
a high ridge, from which, near the summit, a most 
comprehensive and interesting view of Tyre was ob- 
tained. The fragments of the aqueduct, the hill 
Ma'shuk, with its tombs, about a mile off, toward the 
right, then the mole or neck of land formed by Alex- 
ander, extending out to the island, which is only half 
covered by the city with its single minaret, and between 
which and the shore is a sand-drift, each may be seen 
in the view given on the opposite page. To the left, 
under a little undulation, is Ras el Ain ; and to the dis- 
tant right of the island is the present harbor, with a few 
vessels. The remains of the cathedral, of which we 
have spoken, can be seen on the extreme left of the 
city. Here were deposited the remains of Origen, the 
celebrated writer and father of the early Church, and 
afterward those of the emperors. 

We now ride along a ridge for a short distance, in 
sight of several small villages, and passing on the right 
the Kabr Hairan 1 (tomb of Hiram) and Kana, supposed 
by Dr. Robinson to be the ancient Kanah of Asher. 2 
Passing down the ridge, at thirteen minutes before 
two o'clock we come to the brink of a hill overlooking 

1 This is a tomb on a pedestal, standing free, like those at Assos, Thasos, 
and also before -the gate of Platsea, along the road to Thebes. Tombs of 
Rhenea, Bull. d'Inst., 1830, p. 9. See Ancient Art and its Remains, by C. 0. 
Miiller; new edition by F. C. Welcker, from the German, London, 1852. 

2 Joshua xix. 28. 



BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE. 



209 



one of the most charming valleys we have ever seen. 
In the distance is an aqueduct with eight pointed arches, 
evidently Saracenic and built for the purpose of irri- 
gation. Here are fields which have been cultivated with 
great success. Tobacco and wheat seem to have engaged 
the Arab agriculturists to a great extent. There are 
fruit-trees, and in places a variety of vegetation, both 
cultivated and wild, and flocks of black goats browsing 
amid the cheerful verdure, while a varied and wonder- 
fully picturesque background of mist^covered mountains 
occasionally appears through the azure film of the dis- 
tance. This is one of those most perfect landscapes 
which give occasion for sadness in the thought that it 
will ever be necessary to attempt to reproduce it by a 
verbal description. We never felt so fully the need of 
a map of these regions as we have done to-day. Dr. 
Robinson's map on the line of his own travel is excel- 
lent, but was not intended to be a guide beyond that 
line, where he was forced to depend on others. It only 
causes a regret that his accuracy could not have been 
exhibited in the observation of other places, or that 
some one well acquainted with the history and dialect 
of the country could not add to Dr. Robinson's informa- 
tion a skill in cartography and engineering, and thus 
present an accurate series of surveys and local notices. 
This would be of more service than all that has 
hitherto been done in the vague and unreliable approxi- 
mation to distances given in hours and minutes. 

Our course was northeast along the valley, which 
seems to connect Avith a wady, Ain el Mezra'h, running 

14 



210 



VOLCANIC ROCKS. 



toward the northwest to the sea. Near the arches are a 
spring and some fine large trees, and, two or three 
minutes off, a ruin, in the wall of which we discovered 
a stone with a well-carved representation of a heart 
with a flame issuing from its top. At eleven minutes 
before two o'clock we meet the valley running from 
southeast to northwest. Here an Arab horseman, after 
a word with our guide, passes us with so much humility 
in his " salaam" that he nearly loses his seat. Now 
our ride toward the east is over rocks ; and at two o'clock 
we pass a forest of forty-five olive-trees ; and then com- 
mence a descent. We ride at times over such rocky 
flanks of hills that no traveller would ever think there 
was a road ; and then, winding down a valley and up 
a steep ascent amid stones so loose that we are forced to 
dismount, we arrive at a plot of ground about half a 
mile wide and three-quarters long, cultivated, the soil 
being of brown color commingled with a gray. About 
one and a half hour's ride from Tyre — or about four 
miles off — the soil loses the dark and rich appearance 
of the plain and becomes whiter, associated with many 
fractured stones and flints of the chalk-formation ; and 
along the valley-courses may occasionally be seen semi- 
spheroidal shapes of quartz-nodules and flints. At this 
place we begin to perceive very distinct traces of the 
basaltic decompositions, in some spots in small frag- 
ments, in others by the color of the soil alone. At five 
minutes after three o'clock we ascended the highest hill 
in our vicinity to get a sight of the sea. The appear- 
ance of Tyre, peculiarly beautiful and minute, was like 



ASCENT TO THE CASTLE. 



211 



a short, narrow strip lying out on the end of a promon- 
tory, four or five degrees below the horizon; and 
through my glass the minaret and the ruins of the 
cathedral were very distinctly seen. The distance on 
an air-line was from six to seven miles, and the bearing 
of the minaret was almost west. 1 This would afford one 
of the finest possible points of observation for the con- 
struction of a map of this region that could be chosen. 
And now, passing a red soil and the scrubby oak, and 
obtaining another sight of Tyre at fifteen minutes past 
four, in five minutes we come in sight of the castle 
Tibnin, where, by a permission previously obtained, we 
are to spend the night. It appears to be only a mile 
off, and at this distance looks like a fortress and castle 
combined, occupying the finest hill amid the many 
pleasant ones around, and is in all respects very accu- 
rately represented in color and position in the view 
which we have made, and which represents it as we 
saw it at sunset at the distance of a quarter of a 
mile. Having been detained here to sketch the view, I 
was left alone ; and passing along the cliff to the left, as 
represented in the view, I urged my horse over loose rocks, 
and, making the ascent behind the hill, came around to 
the door beneath the turrets on the right and entered, 
still mounted, having ascended on horseback forty-three 
stone steps. Just below was a little dark village of the 
friends, or rather the serfs, of the governor or sheik, who 
resides at the castle. His district, in which we are, is 



Not more than eleven degrees north of west. 



212 



THE METAWILEH ARABS. 



that of the Belad Besharah, stretching eight or ten miles 
north and as far south, bounded by the river Leontes 
on the north, the sea on the west, and the Huleh Lake on 
the east. He is of the Mohammedan sect of Metawileh 
Arabs/ which formerly inhabited the Buka'a, at Baal- 
bek, and Anti-Lebanon, which seems to have been their 
country till the middle of the last century. After that 
time (1750) they obtained a footing in Lebanon, and 
gradually extended their power till they obtained posses- 
sion of Tyre. They have exhibited great courage in 
several of their struggles, especially during the perse- 
cution by the Butcher Djezzar, who attempted to destroy 
them. Volney thought that such was the distress to 
which they were driven that they would be annihilated 
and their "very name become extinct;" 2 but they are 
more prosperous at present than for some time past. 
Tibnin is the capital of the district ; and here the sheik 
seems to have taken up his abode. 

Having entered the castle-gate, I resigned all care 
for the future to Hanna, and, dismounting in the 
courtyard and giving my horse in charge of a soli- 
tary servant, I crossed a muddy yard and entered a 

1 The characteristic difference is, that they are of the " Shiites" or sectaries, 
(of Ali,) or, like the Persian Mohammedans, believe in the rightful succes- 
sion of Ali, son-in-law to Mohammed, while the " Sonnites," (or orthodox,) 
which sect includes the Turks of Syria and Turkey, believe in Omar's right 
alone. The whole originated in a dislike which Ayesha, the wife of Mo- 
hammed, conceived against Ali, because he had discovered her infidelity to 
the prophet ; and she pursued him with her hatred till his death by an 
assassin. This enmity prevented agreement in the exposition of the Koran 
and occasioned the after-variances, which at the time of Hakim, of whom 
we have spoken on p. 71, gave rise to sixty sects. These troubles doubtless 
opened the way to the course pursued by Hakim. Vide Volney, vol. ii. p. 309. 

2 Volney, vol. ii. p. 312. 



FIRE OF COALS. 



213 



door opening into a large room of a lower story, 
under the third cypress in the view. My friend and 
the guide were seated near a genuine fireplace, — the 
first we have known in the country. Heretofore we 
have seen no fires save of coal, wood being seldom if 
ever used, as was also the fact in the time of the Apostle 
Peter. 1 Even here, we were warmed by a fire of coals 
kindled in the chimney-place, the only advantage of the 
fireplace being that the deleterious gas (carbonic acid) 
passed up the flue. By the side of the fireplace were 
two rich Turkey carpets and large pillows of crimson 
plush, the whole intended to accommodate us in the 
Oriental style of sitting a la mode, which, after some 
months' previous exercise, had at last become somewhat 
sufferable. 2 

It was now just the time when our appetites were 
sharpest. The fatigue of ten hours in the saddle, 
with constant excitement and exertion since half-past 
one a.m., and long abstinence, excepting a little bread and 
cold chicken since daylight, together with the fact that 
we were cold and damp, made us anxious to have the table 
spread and coffee served forthwith. We were told that 
this was not allowable. The sheik was our host, our 
dictator; and he had sent word that we must provide 
nothing, absolutely nothing, — neither beds, food, nor ser- 
vants. I had a secret misgiving that this was a " 'cute" 
management on the part of Hanna. He was released 
not only from work, care, and expense, but even from 

1 John xviii. 18. 

2 These carpets, I was told by an attendant here, could be purchased for 
two hundred piastres apiece, (about $8.00.) 



214 



SMOKING FOR POLITENESS. 



obedience to us. He was not our servant till out of 
the jurisdiction of the sheik, who must visit us before 
dinner : so it was probable that we should taste none 
of the bey's good things till eleven o'clock. It was in 
vain that I pleaded my fatigue and extra exertion in 
measuring, sketching, and surveying. My friend pleaded 
etiquette and custom; and we joined in accepting a 
glass of sweetened water and afterward a homoeopathic 
dose of coffee in the cup like that described on p. 136. 
This was followed by the presentation of richly-orna- 
mented pipes, with amber mouthpieces set in gold-stone. 
The stems are formed from straight limbs, perhaps five- 
eighths of an inch in diameter, bored by the natives 
with a long drill worked with a bow. Into the end of 
these is fitted the mouthpiece, which is large and oval 
at the end, and never put within the lips in smoking, 
as in European countries, but pressed against them. 
The attendant draws the smoke through the stem 
until the tobacco is fully ignited, and then, putting 
the amber mouthpiece into its socket, offers the pipe. 
My friend abhorred smoke as a good Mussulman would 
wine. It was now my turn to become urgent on the 
grounds of politeness, and to present my friend with 
his own arguments against the violation of court- 
etiquette, insisting that he should smoke for the 
honor of the sheik and his harem. But the knight 
that tilted so well on one steed was considered 
disabled if he rode on the other; and the servant 
had to relinquish his attempt, making some ex- 
planation necessary, after which we were invited 



HISSING FOR SERVANTS. 



215 



up-stairs. The room we had just occupied was 
about fifty feet long by twenty-five feet in width ; the 
ceiling was arched with massive groined arches, and 
over the windows were Arabic sentences from the 
Koran. At one end, toward the wall, the floor of the 
room was depressed two feet; and here stood some 
fifteen or twenty servants, several of whom were 
Nubians, jet black, with round features. Others were 
Arabic. Whenever a servant was wanted, the usual 
" shee," which is so common throughout the land, started 
two or three in an instant. 1 On a little railing near the 
depressed part of the room were two magnificent falcons 
used for hunting. We ascended to the upper chamber by 
an outside staircase, accompanied by a Nubian slave in 
turban and trowsers bearing a lantern. This room 
was smaller than the lower, 2 with a raised divan extend- 
ing the width of the room, covered with red and intended 
for the usual mode of sitting. But the smoke was intole- 
rable, and we at once saw the disadvantages of a wood- 
fire in a stone room with no draught in the chimney. 
We were told that the sheik was on a visit and would 
shortly return. Soon there was a stir among the 
servants at the end of the room near the entrance ; and 

1 1 can see no reason why this habit is not as ancient as the times of 
Isaiah, or some remnant of a similar habit, which was universal in his time, 
when calling by hissing is first mentioned. Isaiah v. 26: — "He will hiss 
unto them from the end of the earth." Isaiah vii. 18: — " He shall hiss for 
the fly in Egypt." It is done only when the person hissed for is perfectly 
subservient to the one hissing: else the word " ya" is used. The Hebrew 
word p"l^ commences with the sound slia, seeming to have some re- 
semblance T to the sound represented. 

2 Twenty-three by fifteen feet. 



216 



ILLUSTRIOUS 



VISITORS. 



two turbans entered, one of them white, which we took 
to be that of "his excellency." He approached with the 
customary salute, stepped upon the divan, touched his 
breast, and seated himself, his companion following the 
example. We now attempted to be as interesting as 
our abilities would permit, being exceedingly pleased 
with the graciousness of the sheik in condescending to 
grant our desire to spend a day or two in one of the 
most celebrated castles of Palestine. In a few minutes 
we found that the white turban contained only the head 
of his excellency's Moslem priest, and the other that of 
his friend. We chatted on, however, understanding 
that his excellency was sick and would see us to-morrow, 
for which we were heartily thankful, — not that he was 
sick, but that we might be delivered from the evil 
of sitting longer without food. Presently there is 
another stir among the turbans and trowsers, an- 
other putting off of shoes, and we are introduced to a 
fine, grave-looking personage, with gilt dagger and 
gold cloth. All seemed for the moment to do him 
honor; and, perceiving a great contrast of figure and 
dress between himself and the previous visitors, we 
readily acquiesced in the conjecture that "this is 
he." So we salute a la mode. The honored per- 
sonage mounts the divan, performs another salute, 
and immediately becomes humble. We commenced 
to repeat a few of the questions and polite sayings 
which in our ignorance we had wasted upon the priest; 
when he informs us that he is the sheik's son, sent 
with compliments and the apology that his father is 



THE GOVERNOR APPEARS. 217 

sick and sorry that his visit must be delayed till the 
morning. We are now anxious and disappointed, 
and only hope that the next turban the sheik in 
his compliments should send may have our dinner 
beneath it. The sheik's son — about thirty years of 
age — is grave and dark-visaged, and rather agreeable 
in manners and appearance. He is less loquacious 
than the priest, whom he does not like, as I under- 
stand, because he talks too much. But now there is 
a most extensive stirring among all, and trowsers 
disappear from the divan in the twinkling of an eye; 
for the sheik and governor of the province has, despite 
his sickness, actually appeared. Again we salute 
and respectfully wait for him to seat himself, according 
to custom, and then, contrary to custom, we sit on our 
camp-stools, while all the company, save the servants, 
sit on the divan. The narghileh 1 is brought to the 
governor and the pipes to us. My friend, for peace' 
sake, puts the amber mouthpiece to his lips in honor 
of the occasion; and it is a great victory for tobacco 
that so much was accomplished. We are both more 
annoyed by the smoke of the wood-fire than by that 
of tobacco. Our eyes are swimming in tears of 
real pain: the governor will think we are home-sick 
and weeping for the death of every friend that 
ever died, both ours and his. We feel that we shall 

1 The narghileh is a smoking-apparatus rather than pipe, and combines 
a vase of water with a bowl at the top, in which the tobacco is placed. The 
smoke cools as it passes through the water and courses along an elastic 
tube to the smoker. Some are costly and beautiful, valued at several hun- 
dred dollars. 



218 



A CONSIDERATE SHEIK. 



never praise a fireplace and a wood-fire again while in 
this land. The sheik has the good sense to perceive 
that it smokes, — which speaks more highly for him than 
for many whom we visit in the country at home, who 
seem perfectly satisfied to put the fire out and the 
window up and retire under the cover of a wish of a 
" good-night" to a victimized visitor. He orders char- 
coal in and the wood out, and one of his eight attend- 
ants leaves instantly. We have now a conversation on 
America; and his questions are exceedingly intelligent 
and proper. The route here and the distance is so 
much a matter of curiosity to him that at his request I 
draw him a map. He expresses some surprise at the 
distance of England from America, — had always con- 
sidered America tacked on to the back of England as 
Tyre is to the mainland. His questions show that 
evidently he has known something of the country, 
but from very vague reports. Our history and our 
soldiery next come up; and I am stopped to explain 
why we have no standing army. He seems astonished 
at this, that we have no army always on hand, and 
can't comprehend the size of our States. But, on the 
whole, he thinks we are a smart people; and we in 
turn compliment his castle and his hospitality. And 
now there are signs of dinner, and the table is set 
before the divan; and next occurs the necessity of 
washing before eating. 

Every one in the East washes his hands, and some- 
times both mouth and hands, before sitting down to 
eat. This is so strongly rooted in the Oriental idea of 



WASHING BEFORE EATING. 



219 



cleanliness that I doubt whether in ordinary Turkish 
company some would not object to eat until the guest 
had performed this act as one of necessity as well as of 
courtesy. Two servants presented themselves on the 
announcement of dinner, the one with a napkin 
(fiitah) and a brass basin, apparently plated or gilded, 
the other with a pitcher of the same metal. The 
basin contained an inverted basin, which was perforated, 
and prevented us from enjoying what would have been 
the usual Occidental quantity and method of application 
on such occasions, as we were permitted to use only what 
fell from the spout of the pitcher which was in the hands 
of the other attendant. In this it immediately occurred 
to me I saw a resemblance to the Jewish custom in all 
countries of having an urn near the entrance of the 
synagogue with a fascet, from which the water falls upon 
the fingers, the cleansing being in their case simply cere- 
monial, and perhaps similar in signification to that which 
existed in the times of the Savior. 1 This may have been 
the method adopted by Elisha when he "poured water on 
the hands of Elijah." 2 In the present case, however, 
the custom is required by the manner of eating, as 
the inhabitants universally use the fingers; and yet 
there is a degree of nicety in the act, the idea of which 
is seldom fully conveyed by the simple announcement of 
it. Among the genteel classes little pieces of bread 
are always used to convey to the mouth what would 
require with Europeans the use of the spoon or fork; 



1 Mark vii. 3. 



2 2 Kings iii. 11. 



220 



EATING WITH FINGERS, 



and some are particularly careful to select from the 
bread that part which will answer the desired object. 
The crust of the bread is generally so hard and concave 
in parts as to afford any degree of accommodation in 
this respect ; and when the extempore spoon has become 
saturated, it goes the way of all it has previously con- 
veyed, and is renewed from the common stock. The 
softer parts are dipped into the dish and become the 
"sop" of former times, when, as is often the case at 
present, one dish was common to a number of guests. 1 

We adopted the method — which we plainly saw was 
intended — of using the extempore bread fork, and 
thought upon the time when, as late as the reign of 
James I., our English ancestors did the same, or, more 
certainly, fed with their fingers, as the fork was not 
introduced into England till after the time of King 
James's version, (1611 :) so that, while the word "knife" 
often occurs in Scripture, the fork is nowhere men- 
tioned, excepting in one instance, where it is evidently 
an agricultural implement, and probably used for tossing 
hay. 2 

1 It was also common to drink from the same cup, as is proved in Herodo- 
tus, (Calliope xvi.,) where at a feast a Persian divulged a secret of import- 
ance to the one on the same couch, who was considered worthy of such 
trust because he had drunk from the " same cup," (o/uoa'TTovdog.) This is 
beautifully brought into the figure which Nathan used to David in reference 
to the endearment between the little ewe-lamb and its master: — "It did 
eat of his own meat and drink of Ms own cuj)." (2 Sam. xii. 3.) See^Beloe's 
Herodotus, vol. iv. 276. 

2 1 Sam. xiii. 21. Coryat, in his " Crudities," states that in his travels in 
Italy, in 1608, the Italians were the only nation that ate with the fork, 
and that on his return to England, having used it himself, he was called 
Furcifer, " only for using a fork at feeding, but for no other cause." Vol. i. 



RESPECTFUL ATTENTION. 



221 



I had inquired if I should be considered discourteous 
if I sat with my back to " his excellency," as the table, 
arranged by his order, was so placed as to necessitate 
such a position for some one in our company. Having 
been promptly assured that it would not be taken as a 
breach of politeness, 1 took my seat accordingly; and, 
requesting a moment's pause, our thanks for mercies 
past were offered and a blessing implored. Our hearts 
deeply sympathized in the words of our lips; and 
our previous conversation with all led us to feel that 
we could presume thus far upon the courtesy of the 
company, — a presumption in which we knew well we 
might be disappointed in Christian lands, where often 
the politeness of travellers in this respect, which is as 
elegant as the surface of a Sodom's apple, part akes of a cor- 
responding bitterness within. But we were among Turks, 
who think it not strange if a Christian has a God. We 
mention this to add that, though there were probably 
thirty persons present, there was at least the appear- 
ance of the most respectful silence until we commenced 
to eat. While partaking of the sheik's good things, 
many very droll apologies were offered for the meagre- 
ness of the dinner, which we did not think called for, 
save by the sheik's fancies or desire for compliment, 
which with honest hearts we could gratify. The bill 
of fare stands thus. One large dish of fried rice is 

p. 106, ed. 1776, 8vo. The office of Ewerer in England was established for 
the reason that washing both before and after meals was thus made neces- 
sary. At the coronation of Edward VI. this office was filled by the Earl 
of Huntington. See Leland's Col., vol. iv. p. 232, and Antiq. Culina., 
Warner, p. 54, London, 1791. 



222 



BILL OF FARE AT SHEIK'S TABLE. 



placed in the centre of the table ; two deep pewter 
dishes with soup, rice, and chicken, variously com- 
mingled and highly seasoned, form the first course, 
They give place to another dish of various brown 
and yellowish-brown articles, which my friend con- 
siders are gizzards, hearts, tongues, birds' livers, and 
other similar delicacies. I attempt to partake, 
but go no further. D. appears to eat, — I suppose 
for "conscience' sake," as I can't conceive that any 
thing else would induce such an act. The rule is to 
"taste of every dish;" but, between smoke and fatigue, 
I have no conscience on the subject. There are 
next placed before us some suspicious-looking little 
brown and round cakes, apparently of meat and flour. 
The taste is strange : it is evidently animal, but of what 
nature, whether "ferocious or docile," we are too hungry 
and too fatigued to inquire. Next bowls of a kind of 
sweet jelly-starch covered with seeds, which is palat- 
able, and which in good part disappears; and another 
course, of a mixture resembling in appearance and taste 
spermaceti and sugar, winds up the series, of which 
all eat from the same dish. During these proceedings our 
host with his friends continue smoking and apologizing 
for the dinner, and four times we compliment his care 
for our comfort. Immediately after eating, the table 
is cleared and pipes presented, coffee brought, a few 
more questions asked and answered, and his excel- 
lency's little red boots are put on, and, after the usual 
salutes, his white-and-red striped turban and its owner 
are passing out of the door. Two servants now arrange 



THE FLOODED SALOON. 



223 



soft mattresses on the floor, with a single red covering, 
which forms the bedding complete; and, leaving the 
rest to their own meditations, I am soon asleep. 

The ceiling of the room was more than twenty feet 
in height, with great numbers of rafters extending from 
wall to wall to support the flat roof. From the centre 
of the ceiling was suspended a lamp ; and in one end 
of the room, over the divan, was a recess in the wall, 
and not far off was the fireplace. Now, it came to pass 
that, having spent several hours in heavy slumber, 
strange dreams visited me, which led me to believe 
that some one was taking unwonted liberties with my 
head, dropping web-like nets upon me, and, after pain- 
ful exertion, my half-opened eyes discovered the same 
hanging lamp still burning amid myriads of sparkling 
jewels that reflected a mystic splendor all around; 
and yet I was uneasy, and awoke more fully, and, lo ! 
what a scene presented itself! Droppings and drip- 
pings from all parts of the ceiling, stream after stream, 
plash after plash, forming little " wadys," — nay, rivulets; 
and finally a new break in the ceiling brought a cold 
stream fully into my face, bringing me to my waking 
senses and to the perception of the truth that the ceiling 
was a sieve and the rain was pouring in on all sides. 
Every thing was wet, — divans, beds, bed-clothes, carpets, 
baggage, and wearing-apparel. D. had taken up his bed 
and emigrated. I was exceedingly fatigued, and persisted 
in sleeping, but the place was rapidly flooding; and this 
was no dream, as I found on attempting to wrap up again 
in my soaking mattress : so, picking up my wet coverlet, I 



224 



DETERMINE TO LEAVE. 



retired to the heights of the niche and lay cold as the 
mortar and wall until morning. 

In the morning the scene was as if a tempest of rain 
and wind had passed through the room ; and yet, 
despite our forlorn condition, we saw something to 
laugh at in the idea of such a reception at the castle 
of Tibnin, the head-quarters of the sheik of Besharah, 
the Governor of Tyre. Leakiness, however, is a 
defect to which all the flat roofs in Syria are liable, 
unless attended to carefully. We now determined on 
leaving without delay. Hanna, as usual, was ready 
with an excuse for remaining. 

"The bey has sent a messenger saying that you 
must take breakfast with him. The clouds threaten 
rain, and he wishes to see more of you." 

We determined on setting out for Safed, a town six 
hours south-southeast ; and, my friend being of the same 
mind, we agreed to prove both the sheik and Hanna by 
leaving immediately, unless force were used against us. 
We descended to the lower room. The bey's son was 
already there, enjoying his pipe and surrounded by his 
servants. We ordered Hanna to load the mules and 
prepare to reach Safed that night. We informed our 
host of our determination, at the same time presenting 
our reasons and our apologies. A magnificent falcon 
was before us, perched upon the hand of a servant 
and having a bell fastened to its foot. The servant 
was ordered by his master to bring a more handsome 
specimen, which was a splendid bird and quite tame, 
permitting me even to stroke it. I took a sketch of 



PAYING FOR THE WHISTLE. 



225 



the bird and the servant, and, on exhibiting it to the 
sheik's son, he placed a glove upon his own hand and 
received the falcon, as a gentle hint to renew my sketch, 
— which, for want of time, I declined doing. He then 
offered it to me on condition of my remaining till the 
morning, telling me that the bird would go out and 
hunt partridges and bring them in to his master. But 
our time and comfort would not permit us to alter our 
decision, and he returned the hawk to the slave. 
Hanna has our coffee ready, and, with thirty servants 
looking on, we partake of it and the bread and butter 
with all the haste of men escaping from the plagues 
of Egypt. Hanna has just informed us that the sheik 
wants one hundred piastres for our night's lodging; 
and he inquires whether we will pay one-half. Now, 
we consider this downright imposition ; for, from this 
same authority, we learned last night that the 
sheik took nothing for his hospitality. I had the as- 
surance to inquire, having before heard of such tricks. 
But now Hanna gets out of the dilemma by remarking 
that the sheik takes nothing for himself, being so 
wealthy, — even the wealthiest in all Syria. His ser- 
vants, however, may want a trifle, and his interposition 
is made on their behalf. The bill is one hundred 
piastres for a night's soaking, and this for the servants. 
But necessity requires that we should acquiesce. Be- 
fore leaving, the sheik presented himself; and, with our 
tarpaulins on and hat in hand, we salute as usual. He 
expresses his astonishment at our determination, assert- 
ing that it will reflect discredit upon his hospitality, as 

15 



226 



BLOOD-FEUD. 



the weather and the shortness of our stay will afford 
occasion to the inhabitants to accuse him of treating 
us badly. We inform him of our plans and the neces- 
sity for reaching Safed by night if we intend to accom- 
plish our journey to Bethlehem in time for the festival. 
After requesting us to shake hands in the European 
manner and to promise to make his castle our home 
for many days on our return, he bids us farewell. 

The Metawileh Arabs were formerly extremely care- 
ful to avoid contact with any person of another faith, 
never drinking from the same vessel after them with- 
out washing it if of glass or metal and destroying it 
if of earthenware. The sheik's request was therefore quite 
unexpected; and, joined with other tokens of kindness, 
it led us to admire his liberality, to trust in his honesty, 
and to lay our suspicions aside, or, rather, to transfer 
them to our dragoman. This sheik, or governor, 
has the character of a courageous man; and we were 
informed during our visit of several instances wherein 
he has exhibited his strength and wisdom. 

The blood-feud in this land is terrible even at the 
present day. If an Arab kill another of a different 
tribe, his life must be the forfeit; and sooner or later 
his enemy will find him out. It was in reference to 
this place that the following incident was related. 
During a skirmish a son of a sheik, residing at this 
castle, was slain. The man who committed the 
deed was known, and the blood-feud established be- 
tween the sheik and the slayer. It happened 
that the latter, desirous of reaching the coast by a 



HISTORY OF THE CASTLE. 



227 



short route, came within sight of this castle, and, 
ascending the forty-three steps with his few followers, 
entered, and was the guest of the sheik. For several 
days he received unremitting attention, and not a 
word was said in reference to the feud until the 
morning of his departure, when his host, pointing 
to a low range of distant hills, remarked, "There is 
the limit to my hospitality: beyond that there is 
vengeance." The chieftain departed; and just beyond 
the "limit" the sheik engaged in conflict with the 
chieftain and lost his life in the contest. The incident 
exhibits the inviolable nature of hospitality even among 
the Turks. 

The castle Tibnin was built A.d. 1107 by Hugh of 
St. Omar, then lord of Tiberias, to afford protection to 
himself and his followers in their attacks upon the 
territory of Tyre, then in possession of the Turks. It 
was by this lord called Toron, though now by the Arabs 
Tibnin. In 1187 it came into the possession of the 
famous Saladin, after an assault of six days. In 1197 
the Christians attempted its recovery. By making excava- 
tions under the castle the walls were put in great danger 
of falling, and the Turks were brought to the very verge 
of surrender. But shameful dissension in the ranks of 
the Christians caused them to relinquish the attack 
and to leave for Tyre. In 1219 it was partly dis- 
mantled by the Turks to prevent any future occupancy 
by the Christians; 1 but there are portions of the 



1 See Rob. Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 377. 



228 



IMPORTANCE OF A BEARD. 



building which have evidently remained entire from 
its foundation. 

It is said that, when the Saracens were on the point 
of surrender and in great distress, a Turkish spy in the 
Christian camp shot an arrow into the castle with the 
following sentence inscribed upon it: — " There is not a 
beard in the camp;" by which he indicated the fact 
that the Christians were in the very extremity of dis- 
tress from discord and desertion, — the loss of the beard 
being so disgraceful that some Arabs would as soon 
lose their life as their beard. 1 



1 An Arab, having seriously injured his jaw, was told that it would be 
necessary to have a part of the beard removed ; and, though in danger of 
his life and in great pain, he refused to submit to what he considered so 
great a dishonor. 




TEAR-BOTTLE, 
Found in a Sarcophagus near 



Beirut. 



RELIC 



OF PAST 



TERROR. 



229 



CHAPTER X. 

ROUTE TO S AFED. 

As we wind down the hill and near the base, we 
lose sight of the castle, a cloud setting around it; and 
we ride on, meditating upon the contrast between the 
present and the past. The liberties permitted us and 
the apparent welcome given us by this sheik in his 
mountain-fortress are the more interesting to us when 
we remember the records of the terror once excited 
in many hearts throughout Europe by the very name 
of the Turk. There is a simple entry in a church- 
warden's accounts of the parish of St. Helen's, in 
Berkshire, which, under the date of 1565, reads 
thus : — 

Two Common Prayer Books against invading of the Turke . . . 6r7. 

It was considered the common cause of all the Christian 
states of Europe to oppose the progress of the Turkish 
army by every method, both civil and religious. The 
Turks had sustained a defeat this year (1565) and con- 
siderable loss in retreating from the siege of the town and 
castle of St. Michael's, at Malta. But the war was con- 
tinued between them and the Emperor Maximilian in 
Hungary; and these prayer-books were purchased each 



230 



THE PAST AND PRESENT. 



year till 1565, inclusive. 1 "Cruel as a Turk" is a phrase 
which has had more than one illustration to sustain its 
right to be numbered among the proverbs. 2 And the 
accounts of pride on the part of former Sultans are in 
strange contrast with the present instances of con- 
descension. 3 Yet there still remains with many a large 



1 The accounts were kept from the first year of the reign of Philip and Mary 
to the thirty-fourth year of Queen Elizabeth, and were in the possession of 
Rev. G. Benson. See Archaeology, or Miscellaneous Tracts relating to 
Antiquities, published by the Society of Antiquaries of London, vol. i. p. 24, 
London, 1804. Flight of the Turks, recorded in Thuanus, lib. xxxviii. 

2 As an instance of the exercise of power by a Turk, Mr. Eton, in 1809, 
speaking of the naval force, says, "From their slightness they are soon 
liable to become hogged ; to prevent which, they build them with their decks 
curved up, so that when the two ends settle the vessel becomes straight. 
Such ships do not last long, and are subject to be leaky. In 1778, the finest 
ship in the fleet foundered in the Black Sea. Being too weak, she worked 
her caulking out and leaked between all her planks. The famous captain- 
pasha Hassan attributed it to the bad caulking ; and, when the fleet came 
back into the port of Constantinople, he ordered all the captains of the ships- 
of-war to attend in person the caulking of their own ships, on pain of death. 
One of them, being one day tired of sitting by his ship, went home to his 
house, not above a quarter of a mile off. The captain-pasha happened to 
go himself to the arsenal to see the work, examined the caulking, found 
fault, and asked for the captain. The truth was obliged to be told. He 
sat down on a small carpet, sent one man for his blunderbuss and another 
to call the captain. As soon as the unfortunate man came near him, he 
took up his blunderbuss and shot him dead, without speaking a word to 
him. 'Take and bury him/ he said, ' and let the other captains attend him 
to the grave and the caulking be suspended till they return/" — Survey of 
the Turkish Empire, p. 77, by W. Eton, Esq., many years resident in Turkey 
and Russia, London, 1809. 

3 Mr. Eton said that, in his time, "The minister who is to obtain an audi- 
ence of the Sultan must present himself at the Porte by four o'clock in the 
morning, where, after three or four tedious hours occupied in unmeaning 
ceremonies, he is informed that he may be permitted to see the resplendent 
face of the emperor of the world, (Gehan Padisha,) who among his other 
pompous titles bears that of Alemum, (pennati,) refuge of the world; after 
which he is seated in a solitary corner of the divan, on the left, near the 



NICOLO'S BATH. 



231 



proportion of that inveterate hatred and contempt for 
the Christian which is never so apparent as when 
religious differences are made prominent; and hence it 
is a great error to suppose that forbearance on the part 
of a Mohammedan, when no offence is given to his 
religious ideas, is indicative of any change in his moral 
feelings. 

In three-quarters of an hour after leaving the gate we 
arrive at a reservoir about twelve feet square, supplied 
by a spring. Nicolo, with immense saddle-bags con- 
taining a variety of articles, approaches the crumbling- 
edge of the pool, and, the wall giving way, he slides 
with his horse and his load completely into the water. 
D. narrowly escapes the same accident. This gives us 
an idea of the depth of the water, as poor Nicolo has to 
swim for the shore and the horse after him. The 
baggage having been first removed, three or four are 
required to help the horse out; after which Hanna 



door ; and the vizier sends to the Sultan a short note, called talkish, which 
is in substance ' that the infidel [ghiaur] of such a court, after having been 
sufficiently fed and decently clothed, by the special grace of his sublime 
majesty, humbly supplicates leave to come and lick the dust beneath his 
illustrious throne/ The talkishgee (or billet-bearer) having returned with 
the answer of the emperor, the vizier and all his assistants rise with respect 
at the sight of the sacred writing, and the ambassador is conducted to the 
audience. . . . The minister and his suite who go into the audience-chamber 
are invested with a kaftan or Turkish garment, which covers entirely their 
own dress and reaches to the ground. Some writers have absurdly repre- 
sented this robe as a mark of honor shown them : the truth is that the Turks, 
wishing them to appear in every thing as vassals of their empire, obliged 
them formerly to be habited entirely in the Turkish dress, except the head, 
which was covered with a hat, and to let their beards grow previously to 
admission into the Sultan's presence, as their tributaries the Ragusans 
do at the present day." — Idem, p. 107. 



232 INTERESTING PERFORMANCE. 

raises his hands to heaven and shrieks till the hills 
echo with his cries. Picking up a stone weighing 




NICOLO-'S BATH. 



about five pounds, which I thought he would cast at 
Nicolo, he strikes his own head with violence sufficient 
to have killed a child. He then adds a few additional 
howls, which increase the interesting echoes, and de- 
clares that the baggage is spoiled, the sugar dissolved, 
and our prospects utterly ruined. This was admirably 
" performed and it reminded us of a phrase we had 



UNITED STATES UNKNOWN. 



233 



heard of in London as used in reference to ready-written 
sermons sold in a certain little street, — u warranted 
orthodox, never preached, and twenty minutes." Han- 
na's performance occupied five minutes, which was duly 
entered in our time-table, and a new scene opens upon 
us. The clouds are dissipated around us, while the 
castle still remains hidden. 

Our visit to this fortress has been altogether inte- 
resting and novel, though the memory of some incon- 
veniences experienced while there may remain with us, 
and some new ideas of our country may perhaps re- 
main with the sheik. His want of information with 
regard to America is not surprising when we recollect 
that the United States as a nation was unknown in 
Turkey up to 1800. At that time Commodore William 
Bainbridge, then simply commander of the frigate George 
Washington, was sent to Algiers. He left that place 
for Constantinople, and, having arrived, communicated 
to the boarding-officers his object and the fact that the 
frigate was from the United States. Some further 
explanation was needed; for the Turkish officer who 
reported his arrival returned to tell Captain Bainbridge 
that such a nation as the United States had never been 
heard of, and he wished to know whether it was the 
same as the " New World." After a satisfactory reply, 
he was received with every mark of attention ; and the 
messenger further said that he was commanded to state 
to the captain that " the Grand Seignior had par- 
ticularly noticed the stars in the flag of - the United 
States, which he considered as a good omen of the 



234 



TURKISH CONCLUSION. 



future friendly intercourse which would exist between 
the two governments; for that of Turkey was charged 
with one of the heavenly bodies, and he therefore con- 
cluded that there must be some analogy between the 
laws, religion, and habits of the Americans and Mussul- 
mans." " These facts are from one to whom they were 
communicated by Commodore Bainbridge himself." 1 

Our course was generally south-southeast, varying 
from this direction occasionally as necessity required 
us to take advantage of a more level way along a 
valley, or perhaps to wind around the base of some 
high hill. 2 The night before leaving the castle we had 
some conversation with its inmates on the subject of 
agriculture; and this morning we have made quite a 
circuit around the castle upon what our Turkish friends 
consider the best-managed farm in the land. Of the 
agricultural prospects of Syria we shall speak hereafter, 
and at that time shall add any opinions we may have 
founded upon our observations in this vicinity. But one 
fact is noticeable, — that the son of the sheik knew no- 
thing of the farm, which was left almost entirely to the 
servants, who are expected to report a certain amount of 
produce annually. This circuit around these cultivated 
fields, though not intended when we left the castle, 
has cost us one hour and a quarter's delay. At the 
close of that time the castle is on our left, as are also 



1 Memoirs of the Black Sea, H. A. S. Dearborn, Boston, 1819, Introd. vol. 
i. p. 19. The -author mentions that on this occasion Commodore Bain- 
bridge exhibited the "stars and stripes" on the Black Sea for the first time. 

2 Thermometer at 12 m., in the shade of a cloud, 49°. 



SIGHTS AND SOUNDS ON THE WAY. 



235 



the villages Hadith, Haddata, and Hulieh, seen on the 
map ; and for some distance from the latter we take a 
southwest course over an arable country, with occa- 
sional red soil, the color being due to a large amount of 
iron. 1 For five or six miles in several directions the 
land appears as if it might be easily worked and. 
under judicious management, yield heavy crops. Yet 
the green wheat, just springing up in places, and the 
old straw, look thin and light, and cannot be indicative 
of the strength and capabilities of the soil. The rufiie- 
cup oak is the general growth in this region. On our 
way we pass a circular pond of water, with a column 
in the centre; and, though the pond is near a rivu- 
let, there is no visible outlet. Now we pass a veiled 
female on horseback, with no other companion than a 
native walking by her side with his pipe and gun. 
Presently the monotony is relieved by a song from 
Hanna, who is evidently recovering from the effects 
of the self-inflicted blow, notwithstanding he com- 
plained of sickness not long since. Then we are startled 
by a flight of partridges. Both in the manner of their 
flight and in the sound from the wing they resemble 
the bird known by that name in America. 

We now turn toward the south, having passed 
along a little valley running south-southwest; and in 
two hours and a half after leaving the latitude of the 
castle we arrive at a lonely ruin on a little tell or hill. 



1 The sesquioxide, supposed to be such from an analysis afterward made 
of a similar soil, which analysis is given hereafter. 



236 



SOLITARY TEMPLE. 



The ascent is so steep that the girth of my horse slips 
and I am suddenly obliged to dismount. These 
ruins are those of a large church, built of a very 
compact and yellowish carbonate of lime, scarcely 
crystalline. Several bases and capitals of Corinthian 
columns are scattered about. One or two stones stand 
near the doorway in their original position. Before 
the building is a circular cistern, thirty feet in diameter 
and carefully walled up; but the rubbish within pre- 
vents any measurement of the depth. The view from 
the hill embraces many acres of tilled ground, 
and was altogether quite charming. Near the place 
was a little village of mud-covered huts and a pack 
of wild and inquisitive children and women, none of 
whom could tell me any thing of the ruins; and I rode 
up to our company, which had passed on without me. 
Between the village and the hill was a circular pool, 
forty feet in diameter, surrounded by a wall partly 
composed of fragments from this beautiful temple. 
Some of the blocks are carved with various fanciful 
designs; and on one block in the midst of the ruins I 
noticed in relief a large Maltese cross. 

From this moment to the time of our arrival at Safed, 
we have a constant series of accidents to record. Our 
Italian friend finds that his horse is not inclined to keep 
up with the rest of the company ; and, after using his 
cudgel freely, the horse drops, throwing his rider/ and 
then refusing to rise. Having waited a few minutes, w r e 
were forced to leave him, to be sent on if he should live ; 
and the Italian walked the rest of the distance to Safed. 



ACCIDENTS. 



237 



We now turned more to the southeast, into a small valley 
running south-southeast and containing a little water, 
and afterward pass into another, with a larger stream 
running south, and with banks which at places crowd 
our little caravan upon the inclined and slippery sur- 
face of the rocks so far that finally one of the mules 
slips and falls, and, because of the weight of his load, he 
can only rise and slip alternately at each effort, sliding 
head-foremost down to the brink of the stream, and 
does not succeed in gaining a permanent footing until 
drenched with water. The muleteers come up too late 
to prevent the baggage from becoming wet; and the 
mule very demurely emerges from the stream, ascends 
the rock, and passes on without altering his gait. An- 
other mule sticks fast in a narrow cleft in the rock, 
which we use as a pass. The baggage is hung too 
low on either side, and the muleteer enables him to 
pass by raising the load. The course now runs along 
the side of a rocky ridge, with the stream below. My 
horse, from which I had alighted in anticipation of an 
accident, slips and falls heavily against the rocks, but, 
protected by the saddle, rises after a groan, and is led 
for some distance. This was the first time my horse 
had slipped; and I now feared to place any reliance on 
him as sure-footed. Scarcely five minutes had elapsed 
before our dragoman's horse also came down, throw- 
ing his rider under him : the injury to both was con- 
siderable, but particularly so to Hanna. After some 
delay, we proceed, all mounted but the Italian. We had 
now arrived in view of El Jish, and were near a circular 



238 



EL JISH. 



wall enclosing one of those sheep-cotes into which the 
inhabitants always drive their flocks at night during 
the winter months. The approaching night was 
rapidly shutting out every object from our view, and 
clouds were spreading over the sky in a manner that 
plainly indicated a long rain. Near Jish two of our 
men left us to inquire of the villagers the way to Safed. 
Jish appears small, but was once an important place, 
and in the time of Josephus it was the town of a 
certain John, son of Levi, whose " character was that 
of a very cunning and a very knavish person, beyond 
the ordinary rate of the other men of eminence there; 
and for wicked practices he had not his fellow any- 
where." 1 But he repaired the wall of the city 
for a pretence to get money from the citizens; and, 
from the account of his shrewd speculation in oil, 
we learn that this region was once celebrated for its 
olive-trees. The name in Josephus is Giscala. Loud 
calls for the absent members of our company woke the 
echoes from distant hills and directed our attention to 
the fact that words could here be distinctly heard from 
great distances. Our dragoman's words could be 
clearly distinguished, though we were at a distance of 
nearly half a mile. On his return, he communicated 
the unwelcome news that the party must retrace their 
steps. The cold, drizzling rain is blown into our faces ; 
and in a short time we pass a pond, — the Birket el Jish, 
— from the surface of which a flock of ducks rise and 



1 Joseph. B. J., bk. ii. 21, I. 



I 

CRATER OF A VOLCANO. 



239 



fly off. It is too dark to examine it; but it is 
supposed to be the crater of an extinct volcano. 1 We 
continue on a journey of three hours, though the 
distance is but two hours from Jish to Safed, It seems 
the most cheerless, the most hazardous, and the darkest 
ride I ever attempted. Our guide, though taken from 
Jish, lost his way several times. The rocks were 
slippery, the mud deep, the ravines fearful, the rain 
cold and driving, and the whole hazardous to limb and 
health. For more than two hours we trusted only the 
tip of our boots in the stirrup, fearing every in- 
stant that the horse would slip, and knowing that a 
misstep might be attended with fearful consequences. 
It was a subject of wonder to us that the mules could 
pass over the rocks and through narrow passages with 
the baggage. But, after a most painful travel, we came 
in a second's notice upon the houses of Safed, and, 
after a short wandering through the muddy streets, 
entered the house of one Tamus, a Christian with a 
family of several children. 

We were received with great kindness. In one 
corner of our room was an iron stove, which appeared 
to be of English manufacture. But the rain was 
leaking through the ceiling upon the stove, which 
contained no fire and was so cold that we kept away 
from it to avoid the chills. A little furnace with a few 
burning coals was the only comfort of the kind for 
four or five cold and dripping travellers. Our native guide. 



1 Rob. Bibl. Res., vol. iii. 3G7. 



240 



TROUBLE AHEAD. 



who ran before us, was literally soaked in the rain, 
and he must dry himself by the same fire, — the entire 
use of which was not sufficient for the health and com- 
fort of my friend and myself. The baggage was wet 
containing my papers and valuable books, and that 
required immediate attention. After a while, dinner 
was announced in another room, which we now entered. 
It was quite pleasant to hear the voices of children once 
more and feel that they were of a Christian family. 
One was an interesting little girl of seven years, and 
quite pretty. The old man spoke English, and had 
been an instructor to several missionaries. At half- 
past eleven we retired; and, though the rain dripped 
in here and there most freely, we were thankful, very 
thankful, for the comfortable contrast between that 
minute and another two hours earlier. 

The following morning 1 it was found that our old 
enemy the rain-water had forced its way in plentifully 
during the night. But the use of our tarpaulins for 
coverlets had effectually shielded us during the night, 
and the pattering rain on the roof and bed did not 
prevent a pleasant sleep. To-day we have had a most 
trying time; and my friend, who has heretofore taken 
charge of our general movements, wishes to resign his 
post, Our dragoman complains of the weather, of an 
aching head from yesterday's blow, of last night's 
fatigue, and of the condition of the mules, whiclr have 
been neglected and have passed the night without food. 



1 The thermometer 46° at nine o'clock, 45|-° at four p.m. 



SINGULAR STREETS OF SAFED. 



241 



The sum of all is, he wishes to remain at the expense of 
our excellent host. We reason with him in a variety of 
ways; but all has about the same effect upon him as 
whistling would have upon a mule. Tamus aids us, and 
tells him he ought to fulfil his contract, — when sud- 
denly and fretfully he cries out, " Why, you don't help 
me at all!" The plain interpretation of which is that 
every Arab must assist his brother to cheat. But our 
host is a Christian, and informs us that our dragoman is 
deceiving us when he says it is six hours' ride to Tell 
Houm, to which we wish to travel to-day: it is only 
four. "He wants to make a day out of you: he 
is not a good man." After dinner, accompanied by our 
kind host, we visit the bazaars and streets, where there 
are ruins upon ruins formed by the terrible earthquake 
of 1837, when five thousand persons perished. The 
houses have square tops, and are built on hills with 
occasional depressions intervening. But the character- 
istic feature of the town is found in the fact that many 
of the flat roofs of the houses form pavements for the 
streets still higher up the hills; so that while walking 
in some of the streets you are passing immediately 
over the heads of some taking their meals in the rooms 
under your feet. 

Looking south-southwest, we see Mount Tabor, and 
southeast we have the Lake of Tiberias before us. 
Passing through the town and over to the north, the fol- 
lowing sketch represents the view with a little settlement 
in a valley. The ruins of the old fort and palace of a 
former governor are on the right; and a few Moham- 

16 



242 CYPRESS AND FLOWERS OYER GRAVES. 



medan tombs in the foreground, with little earthen pots 
set in the mortar for such green branches and flowers 
as filial affection or friendship may suggest to be 




placed over the remains of loved ones. This is a uni- 
versal practice among the Turks, but would be more ap- 
propriate to the Christian, who realizes that death is but 
the gate to that immortality brought to light through 
the gospel. Beautiful as is the emblem of the cypress, 
its presence at the tomb appears to have been of pagan 
rather than of Christian origin, as is evident from the 
epitaph of the Grecian poet Sophocles written by 
Simonides : — 

"Wind, gentle evergreens, to form a shade 
Around the tomb where Sophocles is laid ; 
Sweet ivy, wind thy boughs and intertwine 
With blushing roses and the clustering vine: 
So shall thy lasting leaves, with beauty hung, 
Prove a fit emblem of the lays he sung." 



HORRORS OF THE EARTHQUAKE. 



243 



Near the cemetery we met a portly native, with 
whom Tarrms had a short conversation, the result of 
which was that we agreed to take him as guide to 
Tell Houm in case our present guide declined visiting 
the place. His reward was to be thirty piastres, 

m 30.) 

After passing several deserted and miserable bazaars, 
we returned to our lodgings, and made a pleasant 
acquaintance with the family. All became quite 
social, the children especially; and the same little 
attentions amused and surprised them here which do 
in America, — affording one argument more in favor, if 
not of the unity of the human race, at least of the unity 
of human interests. 

It will be easily understood from what cause the 
earthquake in 1837 destroyed so many of the inhabit- 
ants. The fall of one house would have crushed the 
one beneath, even had it survived the terrible force 
of the earthquake. The horrible distress which fol- 
lowed this catastrophe can scarcely be imagined by any 
one not present at the time. Something may be 
learned from the facts that many — perhaps three thou- 
sand — remained several days without food or attend- 
ance, and one man was actually covered up to the 
neck in ruins, and, though crjdng for help, remained in 
this state until he perished. Dr. Thompson, the Ameri- 
can missionary, is remembered here by many for his 
kind attentions to the wounded and dying at that time. 

Safed is a city the origin of which is to be traced 
back to a period not more than six or seven centuries 



244 



TOMB OF HOSEA. 



past. It was the site of a strong castle, probably 
about a.d. 1140, and four hundred years afterward a 
place of considerable renown, especially as a resort 
for Jewish scholars and rabbis, when there was a 
school of great popularity in Safed, and many syna- 
gogues, with a printing-press. In 1266. there was a 
strong fortress on the hill seen in the last view, and occu- 
pied by the Templars ; but in June of that year, Bibars, 
the cruel Sultan of Egypt, besieged it with such success 
that the knights capitulated, marched out, and, trust- 
ing to the Sultan's promises of protection, were piti- 
lessly put to death, being slaughtered on the hill to the 
number of two thousand. About a.d. 1550, Safed was 
in a most prosperous condition, as was also the cele- 
brated Rabbinic school just referred to. 

There are tombs at Meiron, a little village on a hill 
a few miles west of Safed, where is said to be the tomb 
of Hosea the prophet. 1 Safed to the Jews is perhaps 
the most holy place in Palestine, J erusalem excepted ; 
and it is one of the four holy places to which we shall 
refer at Tiberias. 



1 Bibl. Res, vol. iii. pp. 332-334. 



LEAVING HANNA BEHIND. 



245 



CHAPTER XI. 

THE COUNTKY AND SCENES ON THE LAKE OF TIBERIAS. 

On the following morning we started early, and, 
inquiring of our dragoman whether he was ready to 
accompany us to Tell Houm, we received a long-drawn 
affirmative for an answer and then a complaint of ill 
health. He was informed that w r e had a guide, and 
the use of the horses was requested. We were soon on 
the way with our guide, who spoke nothing but Arabic, 
but seemed quite obliging, and carried arms for both 
of us. From the top of the hill there was a fine view 
of the land beyond the Jordan and of the lake, afford- 
ing a desirable position for bearings. Descending the 
hill toward the sea, we passed a variety of trees, the 
fig, pomegranate, and olive included, and also a foun- 
tain. The air is pleasant, and the birds carol forth 
their cheering morning songs till we recover from the 
unpleasant effects of our dragoman's treatment. 

The Lake of Tiberias lies beautifully calm in the 
sunshine, surrounded by lofty hills as picturesque as 
any painter could wish. In ten minutes from the last 
spring we meet another, clear as crystal and gushing 
forth into the sunshine. Now we descend into a rocky 



246 



GEOLOGICAL CHANGES. 



ravine, and make our exit at a spot from which the 
lake is beautiful, the natural scenery surpassing my 
expectations, which were not raised by what I had 
previously heard. Looking toward the south, there are 
two slight indentations on the eastern coast, and one 
very distinct on the western at the utmost extremity. 
At half-past nine the soil is a dark brown, and in 
many places appears volcanic. The dip of the rock is 
toward the southeast, after crossing a ridge running 
northeast ; and in places we meet with wild fennel and 
the parsnip. Yery few bushes are to be seen before us 
or for miles around, the land being, with the exception 
of a few flowers and grasses, nearly barren. Nor 
does the rock present the appearance of any ancient 
geological disturbance. There are too much angularity 
and abruptness, too little growth and antecedent depth 
of soil, to leave the impression that the present con- 
formation is not within the time of history. The 
volcanic fragments and ruptures, and the strange dis- 
colorization of soil, all leave the traveller in doubt 
as to whether these disturbances have not materially 
changed the face of the country and the angle of 
the dip within a time not more remote than three 
thousand years. Notwithstanding some forms which 
seem to indicate a longer era, many physical phe- 
nomena could be settled with great ease under the 
above supposition, which, however, we cannot treat of 
at present. At ten o'clock we see in the north, per- 
haps thirty-five miles off, the dazzling summit-ridge 
of Mount Hermon, Jebl es Sheik, covered with snow. 



MOUNT HEEMON. 247 

The position from which the following sketch was 
taken was about four hundred yards northwest of Khan 
Jubb, 1 and is an accurate outline, representing the 
high point on the left and the triple descent to the 




valley of Et Teim. The mountains on the west of the 
valley of Et Teim do not seem so high as Hermon ; and 
on the east, or to the right, there are four distinct peaks 
nearly on a line and across the valley intervening be- 
tween them and Mount Hermon, the two central 
peaks being near to each other in the midst of the line, 
They appear to belong to the Anti-Lebanon extension 
of the Hermon range. The immense quantity of snow 
on the mountain must greatly increase the flow of the 
Jordan and add materially to the fertilizing qualities 
of its waters. The position of the ridge at the head 
of the Jordan affords a remarkable benefit to that 
part of the country irrigated at present by its streams, 

1 See map. 



248 



Joseph's pit. 



or which may from any enterprise or economical 
changes be hereafter watered by the Jordan itself or its 
tributaries. 1 Khan Jubb Yusef (khan of Joseph's pit) 
derives its name from a well hewn in the rock, once 
supposed to be the pit into which Joseph was thrown 
by his brethren. The khan is large and ruined, built 
of the volcanic rock, which is hard, irregularly brown 
and black, and semi-crystallized, the general appearance 
being a dark brown. In some places pieces of lava were 
picked up, which our guide said were called the " tears 
of Jacob," evidently associated with the mourning of the 
patriarch for Joseph. The true pit, however, as sug- 
gested by several, was forty miles southwest, and in the 
vicinity of Mt. Carmel. This place probably received 
the name from Salah-ed-Din, whose name was also 
Yuseph, or Joseph, and who erected many buildings 
through this part of the country and in Egypt. 2 He 
was the son of Eyub, or Job, after whom the well near 
Jerusalem might have been named. 

Soon a train of nineteen camels and several mules 
appear in sight, passing near the shore, on their way to 
Damascus ; and then several vultures hover near us, 
quite similar to the buzzard of the Southern States. 
Occasionally the anemone and the adonis are seen in some 
damp and shaded spot, both of which we have repre- 

1 Twenty-seven inches of snow give three inches of water, when melted, 
and the water thus obtained is found to contain ammonia, which js the 
cause not only of its great softness, but also of the great fruitfulness of such 
soils as are irrigated by it. 

2 Bohadin, (preface, p. 1.) in Bonar's Land of Promise, with further 
remarks in Robinson's Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 315. 



RAKKATHj HAMMATH, MAGDALA. 



249 



sented in the plate of flowers. The historical localities 
now become so numerous that they invite a few mo- 
ments' rest to obtain a drawing. The colored view of 
the Lake of Tiberias is the result of that drawing ; and 
a description of the various places therein presented 
will obviate the necessity of any further account of them. 
The view is that of the lake as the observer looks a little 
east of south. Behind the two hills, on the border of 
the lake nearest the observer, are the ruins of Tell 
Hum, pronounced Houm : more definitely, the ruins are 
behind the one on the left. Farther to the left is the 
point at which the Jordan enters the lake. At the 
extreme southern point, and farthest off, is the exit of 
the Jordan, on the right of which exit is the city of 
Tarichese, spoken of by Josephus, now called Kerak. 
It possesses some ruins, and possibly is the Rakkath 
of Scripture, (see Geographical Appendix,) though the 
Jews suppose Tiberias to be the site of that ancient 
town. 1 

Coming up the western or right-hand side, and half-way 
between a point of land and the little cove in the moun- 
tain-side, are springs affording baths so hot as scarcely to 
be bearable, and suggesting the idea that volcanic agencies 
are not far off. This may be the Hammath of the division 
of Naphtali, 2 and was called Emmaus by Josephus, signi- 
fying warm baths. 5 Here is a little house with its marble 



1 See Bonar's Land of Promise, p. 441, American edition. Robinson's 
Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 266. 

2 See Geographical Appendix for references. 

3 Wars of the Jews, bk. iv ch. i. 3. 



250 



APPARENT DISAGREEMENT. 



baths, quite picturesque in the distance, though, partly 
in ruins. It was built by Ibrahim Pasha in 1833, and 
was evidently a very costly and beautiful structure, 
though anterior to its erection there have been others, 
as far back as the time of Josephus, and perhaps before, 
as the springs were in his time celebrated for their heal- 
ing powers. 1 

Just north of the little cove spoken of above is the 
town of Tiberias. Nearer is the plain of Gennesaret, run- 
ning into the hills for more than a mile. Where that 
plain terminates on the south, under the jutting moun- 
tain, is El Mejdel, the Magdala, the city of Mary Mag- 
dalene, against whom the painters have conspired in 
giving her a worse character than did the seven evil 
spirits whom our Saviour cast out of her. On that plain 
of Gennesaret I suppose the Beatitudes of the sixth chap- 
ter of Luke were pronounced ; for it will be remembered 
that there is a repetition of the sentiments and the 
words of the fifth chapter of Matthew in that chapter 
of Luke. From an examination of Matthew iv. 13 to 
v. 1, it will be seen that our Saviour was near the lake 
and on its shore not long before ascending the moun- 
tain; and from further comparison with Lukevi. 12-17, 
it will appear still more plainly that his choice of dis- 
ciples was made very soon before ascending. Com- 
pare Matthew viii. 1, 6 with Luke vii. 1, and it is 
plain that immediately after his Sermon on the Mount 
he left for Capernaum. First, on the mount the fifth 



Josephus, as before. 



CAPERNAUM. 



251 



chapter of Matthew was spoken, and then he descended 
to the plain, meeting many from Tyre and Sidon, to 
whom he repeated a portion of his previous discourse as 
he went toward Capernaum. This I think the highly- 
probable reconciliation of two apparently varying state- 
ments, — the one in Matthew, where the Beatitudes are 
said to have been pronounced on the mount, and the 
other in Luke, where it is said that they were spoken 
when " he stood on the plain" where we suppose he re- 
peated a great portion of what he had said on the mount. 
He could not have been far from Capernaum; and Caper- 
naum must have been on or near the plain, as "when he 
had ended all his sayings he entered into Capernaum." 1 
Khan Minyeh, near where Capernaum is said to have 
stood, is on the shore and not far to the left of the place 
where a solitary crane may be seen in the view, standing 
on the top of a hill this side of the plain. 2 

1 Luke vii. 1. 

2 Notwithstanding Dr. Bonar's surprise that Khan Minyeh should be 
considered the site of Capernaum, I am inclined to think from Josephus's 
account itself that Dr. B. has not given a proper distance to Capernaum 
(or Cepharnome of Josephus) from Julias (see map) in the narrative of the 
historian; and this may be due to the fact that Dr. B. has not taken into 
consideration the whole of the narrative, which is as follows: — "His horse, 
having fallen into a quagmire, threw him to the ground. He was thence 
carried to Capernaum." At this point Dr. B. stops, and remarks that it is 
"implied that this latter place was not far off;" and therefore Tell Hum 
was probably the site of the village. But Josephus also says that having 
remained "feverish that day, and as the physicians directed, I was that 
night removed to Tarichece." 1 Then it seems he was on the clay of the 
accident removed to Capernaum, remained there under treatment of the 
physician, and yet was taken to Taricheae the same night. Now, Ta- 
richeas is at the southern extremity of the lake. (See map.) Would not 
this show that Capernaum was at least as near to the southern extremity of 



ISee the Life of Josephus, by himself, §72. 



252 



THE PLACE OF TRANSFIGURATION. 



On the left and east of the lake are the hills of the 
Gadarenes, or Gergesenes, down which the swine ran, 
as recorded in Matthew viii. 32 and Mark v. 13. On 
the opposite side of the view is the green and round top 
of Mt. Tabor, the reputed place of the transfiguration, but 
which it is supposed took place farther to the north, — 
perhaps on some mountain near Banias, as the Saviour 
was in " the towns and coasts of Cesarea PhilijDpi" 1 
not long before the transfiguration. And, moreover, 
as after the transfiguration he was in Galilee, 2 going to 
Capernaum 3 and from thence to Judea, 4 it is with great 
reason supposed that he was north of the place of the 
observer at the time. Notwithstanding this, the tra- 
dition, as Dr. Bonar remarks, 5 existed before the time of 
Jerome, (fourth century;) and there is something to be 
reflected upon in the fact that he was not "at Cesarea 



the lake as it was to Julias, on the northern extremity ? I therefore conclude 
that Dr. Bonar's argument drawn from Josephus is decidedly against the 
location of Capernaum at Tell Hum, while it brings us to consider it some- 
where near the locality of Khan Minyeh, though probably not immediately 
at the khan. As to the objection that the spring Ain et Tin could not 
supply the plain, this is easily obviated by the very probable supposition 
of any amount of artificial conveyances and channels, just as Ras el Ain 
irrigates the plain of Tyre. And, if not so, where is there a fountain 
at Tell Hum to supply the deficiency? As for the maps in the earlier 
times, one has only to glance at the celebrated Peutinger Tables 2 and the 
map referred to to see that the topographical ideas of those who often had a 
correct numerical measure were very much at fault. 

1 Mark viii. 27 ; Matt. xvi. 13. 2 Matt. xvii. 22. 
3 Matt. xvii. 24. 4 Matt. xix. 1. 

5 Land of Promise, p. 407, American edition. 

2 The Peutinger Tables is the title of an antique map of the military routes and distances in the 
Roman Empire. Tt takes its name from Peutinger. among whose papers it was found after his 
death. It was constructed not later than the fourth century, — some think between a.d. 222 and 
235. The first facsimile was published in 1753. See Robinson's first Appendix. The copy in 
possession of the author bears date 1624, and was published at Antwerp. 



BOTH SIDES OF THE ARGUMENT. 



253 



Philippi immediately before the transfiguration took 
place," as Dr. Bonar remarks, for in two places 1 it is 
said that it was after six days, by which I suppose is 
meant, as it is written, after six days, or more than six 
days; and the reason for such a supposition is apparent 
in St. Luke who says about "eight days" 2 after his pre- 
vious sayings he ascended with his disciples this moun- 
tain, which stood apart. 3 There is something suggestive 
in this constant connection of "six" or "eight days." 
Where were they during that time which seems to be so 
connected with the incident of ascending the mountain ? 
And it is especially noticeable that only the act of ascent 
is mentioned after enumeration of the days, as though the 
days were spent in travelling to the base of the moun- 
tain, and then the ascent was made. So that though 
our Saviour might have been at the place above stated, 
yet it would by no means be settled that those six or 
eight days might not have been spent in traversing the 
land to that lonely peak of Tabor. But the important 
objection is urged that there was a fortification and 
village on the top, and this has been plainly shown by Dr. 
Robinson 4 to have existed at the time of the Saviour. 
To this it has been answered that He who in the midst of 
an angry crow r d, as at the hill near Nazareth, could "pass 
through the midst" unobserved, would not with only three 
disciples need the whole of a mountain, the top of which 



1 Matt. xvii. 1 ; Mark ix. 2. 2 Luke ix. 28. 

3 /car' idiav, both by Matthew and Mark. The disciples were /uovovg, " by 
themselves," and the mountain " apart.' 7 



254 VARIOUS NAMES OF SEA OF TIBERIAS. 



alone is one-fourth of a mile in length, to exhibit his 
power in that transfiguration. These are the argu- 
ments generally advanced on both sides. But while the 
easiest interpretation of all these passages would bring 
the Biblical student to place this " holy mountain" 1 some- 
where in the region of the heads of the Jordan, around 
which the Saviour had previously been, the early 
tradition and the churches erected here have attached 
greater interest to this mountain than to any other as 
one always associated with that scene. 

About five miles to the right of Tabor 2 is Nazareth. 
The sea is called Tubariyeh by the Arabs, and by 
various names : — Sea of Galilee, from the province ; Sea 
of Tiberias, from the city; Sea of Cinneroth, or Cene- 
reth, from the town which Tiberias succeeded ; 3 Lake 
of Gennesaret, from its proximity to "the region of 
Genezar;" 3 and, in Pliny's time, the Lake of Tarichese, 
after the town at the southern extremity. 4 

But " the Lake of Tiberias" is in most general use, as 
is seen in the Arab name. Looking once more upon 
the view and at a point on the lake-coast the farthest 
from the observer, we have just beyond that point the site 
of Gadara, whence the name of the country of the Gada- 
renes took its origin, which country, stretching along the 
eastern coast, might have been called by the same name 
as that of the Gergesenes spoken of in the Gospels in 

1 2 Peter i. 18. 

2 Called by Greek writers Itabyrion, or Atabyrion. So in the Septuagint. 
Hos. v. 1. Robinson's Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 220. 

3 Quaresmius Ter. Sane, viii. c. 3, p. 862, t. ii. Antwerp, 1639. 

4 Pliny's Nat. Hist., v. 15. 



COUNTRY EAST OF THE LAKE OF TIBERIAS. 255 



connection with the miracles of our Saviour. 1 Far off to 
the left, and perhaps forty miles distant, are the moun- 
tains of the Hauran, (the dog,) and nearer is the com- 
paratively level tract of Auranitis, and farther north 
that of Gaulonitis. Between that highest range of 
mountains on the horizon, and immediately over the 
heads of the two heifers ploughing, is the Jebel Hauran 
just spoken of, and between it and the lake is a narrow 
strip of land widening northward. That country is the 
southern part of the Trachonitis of Luke iii. 1, now 
called Lejah, and a region notorious for robbers, who 
have no hesitation in informing the traveller that they 
get their living by robbing. 2 Iturea is supposed to be 
that track farther north, and east of the northern part 
of the lake. (See the map.) The length of the lake is 
thirteen miles, within a furlong; 3 and the width, which 
is not exactly known, is probably greatest at the plain 
of Gennesaret and about six miles and a half. Its bot- 
tom is a concave basin. The greatest depth is one hun- 
dred and sixty-five feet, — though its rising and falling at 
various times of the year will vary this measurement. 
The level of the lake is six hundred and fifty-three 4 
feet below the Mediterranean, and the land between it 
and the Mediterranean near Turan, a little village about 

1 Matt. viii. 28 ; Mark v. 1. 

2 See Porter's Five Years in Damascus. This was his experience in 1855. 

3 The exact length may be found in the Geographical Appendix. See 
Tiberias, Lake of. The observations were kindly sent me by Lieut. Lynch, 
of U. S. N. The result as stated in the official report varies nine seconds 
of a minute, making the lake that much too short; I have therefore used 
the observations, adding the nine seconds as more correct. 

4 Lynch's Official Report. 



256 



SUSPICIONS AROUSED. 



ten miles west of the town of Tiberias, is fifteen hun- 
dred and twenty-five feet, making a very perceptible 
descent from Nazareth to the lake, as the descent in 
ten miles would be eight hundred and seventy-one feet 
to the level of the lake. Hence the appropriateness of 
the expression used by St. John in the description of 
the centurion's importunity : " he besought him that he 
would come down" " and as he was going down" that is, 
from Cana to Capernaum, which were on the line of 
descent given above. 1 

While sketching the view of the lake, and having 
nearly completed my work, I noticed a small company of 
Bedouins emerge from behind a hill. No one was in sight 
except an Arab ploughing with his heifers, as my com- 
panion and the guide were at this time a mile distant 
and beyond the hills. Noticing that the Arabs were 
evidently turning to the position I had chosen as the 
best for my sketching, though somewhat out of their way, 
it immediately occurred to me that it was for no friendly 
purpose. Not far from me they fell into a trail; and it 
became very plain that I was the object they intended 
to reach. My tezkerah had been sent on with the bag- 
gage to Tiberias, but in this emergency would have been 
of little value to me. Putting myself in a riding pos- 
ture and drawing out my small spy-glass — my only 
weapon — to its full length, I summoned all the courage 
available, turned my horse's head immediately toward 
them, and, riding rapidly up to the line, addressed them 



1 John iv. 47, 49, 51. 



ROBBING TRAVELLERS OF CLOTHES. 



257 



in a loud voice with the Mohammedan salaam. 1 The line 
immediately opened, and I passed through. Not a word 
was said in answer; and, though one on my left acted as 
if he would have grasped my reins if he had not been 
afraid, I escaped without any hinderance. On reaching 
my friend and guide, I found them very much inclined to 
find fault with my delay, the guide asserting that Be- 
douins were lurking in the vicinity aiud that we might find 
much difficulty before reaching Tiberias. It seems that 
the guide had heard of what was afterward corroborated, 
— that a company of gentlemen, with a lady, had a few 
days before been attacked by a party of Bedouins, 
literally robbed of every article of clothing, and in this 
condition set free to reach Damascus or any other 
place at their own time and in their own way. This 
had happened not far northeast of our present position. 
I did not inform either the guide or my friend of my 
own escape ; and, on the inquiry whether we should turn 
to the right for Tiberias or go left around the hills in 
view and visit Tell Hum, we decided to visit the latter 
and run the risk. It is surprising that, amid so many 
narrow escapes and so much robbery as actually hap- 
pen, there is so seldom a case of murder. All come 
off living, notwithstanding the hideous character 

l Es selamu aleykum, or, commonly, Es selam aleykum. This is never to 
be addressed to a Muslim by a Christian, nor by a Christian to a Mus- 
lim, and, though given by a Muslim on meeting a European, it is under- 
stood to be addressed to his Muslim attendant, though some have ludicrously 
mistaken this as addressed to themselves. Occasionally a Muslim will re- 
turn as answer simply, " And to you," Wa-aleykum, but on all occasions 
when we have used this form of address, as we have frequently, it appeared 
to cause displeasure. See this explained in Lane's Modern Egyptian. 

17 



258 



FLOWERS AND PLANTS. 



given the Bedouin, and the fact that all appear to dwell 
in constant fear of them. At twenty-two minutes before 
eleven, we arrived at Ain et Tin, or " spring of the fig," 
so called probably from some fig-trees near the spring a 
little to the right of the two hills in the view. There is 
a reservoir of eight sides, eighteen feet deep and forty or 
fifty feet in diameter, with a ruin of an aqueduct beyond, 
and water running over its walls. Not far off, some Arabs 
are ploughing, and against some bushes they have placed 
their guns, ready for defence in case of attack. The soil 
here is wonderfully varied in color. In some places, 
within a stone's throw, we could distinguish six or seven 
distinct shades, the predominant color being brown or 
red, and in some places orange. We took the bear- 
ing of the coast as we skirted the water on our way to 
Tell Hum. Wild ducks in abundance float on the 
waters and dive beneath the surface or fly over it. The 
oleander — the difleh of the Arab — grows in profusion, 
and some small but beautiful plants. 1 The anemone is 
seen occasionally, as represented in the flower-plate, and 
nearer Safed, and beyond, the adonis, which is also repre- 
sented. At ten minutes after twelve we arrive at Tell 
Hum and lunch as usual on cold chicken and bread, 
made delicious by keen appetites. Near the water are 
the ruins of a tower, having a side thirty-four feet long 
by twelve feet high. A little tent of Arabs is not far 



1 A plant about five to seven inches in height, — leaves lanceolote, very 
slender, with a little flower at the top, sub-panicled, and resembling the 
snap-dragon: it is the Linaria Chalepensis, Mill. Also a minute white flower 
with lace-like leaves, something like the Astrantia. 



PRIMITIVE PLOUGH. 



259 



off ; and I get permission to sketch a plough, which ap- 
pears as follows. 



Having exhibited the drawing to one of my Bedouin 
visitors, who himself is a fine specimen of these prowling 
sons of the desert, he seemed pleased, and I asked permis- 
sion to try my pencil upon him. He was ashamed of his 
fears; and yet such is the superstition of the evil eye 
that he evidently would have preferred exemption from 
my looks and pencil. More is feared from this cause 
among this people than from any other, even death. 
Strange tales are told of the effects of this fascination 
and of the ascendency it has everywhere in the East. 

We have frequently met children and women wearing 
little figures attached to cords and hung round the neck. 
These are charms ; and, having seen them also in Egypt, 
our thoughts are carried back to the past, when talis- 
mans had so strange a power and so great an ascendency 
in this land. These little images — sometimes of uten- 
sils, scissors, animals, portions of the human body, 
of various sorts, sometimes even obscene, and either 
concealed or exposed — take us back to days long gone 
by and to legends of this land; and a page from the dim 
past will perhaps be of interest here. 




260 



TALISMANS. 



Talismans originated in the worship of the sun and 
planets. The astronomical pursuits of the early Chal- 
deans, Egyptians, and Persians encouraged the forma- 
tion of images of the planets which might be worshipped 
when they were invisible. These heavenly bodies had 
their supposed influences; and the images made under 
certain planetary phases were charms to defend against 
floods, pestilence, fire, &c. Figures thus made were called 
tzelmenia (meaning image or figure) by the Chaldeans, 
Egyptians, and Persians, and which was the same as 
talizman by the Arabians : hence our word " talisman." 1 
It is certainly established that strange and potent influ- 
ences were attributed long before the time of Moses to 
little images "formed or fabricated according to astro- 
logical principles." Terah, the father of Abraham, ac- 
cording to ancient tradition, made "talismans, or little 
images framed in some planetary hour," 2 to which were 
attributed certain supernatural and mysterious powers; 
and though some 3 suppose that talismans owe their origin 
to mistaken notions among the Gentile nations concern- 
ing the power of the brazen serpent, (Numb. xxi. 8,) 
there is evidence of the existence of such figures 
long before, as they occur in the tombs of Egypt and 
Babylon, some of which have fallen under my own 
examination. And it is to the prevalence of this talis- 
manic idolatry that reference is had in the prohibitory 



1 The Hebrew p£ magan, and Greek GToixeta is the same figure. 

2 Maimonides, by Townley, p. 115. 

3 Gregory, as quoted by Townley, who writes as though he did not consider 
his view the correct one. Vide Maimonides 116. 



ANCIENT CHARMS. 



261 



part of the second commandment, as these images were 
in very general use among the nations in the time of 
Moses, and if not called talismans, yet they were images, 
and were thus referred to : — " Thou shalt not make to 
thyself," i.e. for your own private use, as was the intention 
in the formation of these little images. Images of the 
destroyers were also formed to protect against the thing 
injuring, just as I have seen in Palestine at the present 
day images of the eye to protect against the "evil eye." 
For the same reason images of emerods and mice were 
made by the Philistines and sent with the ark. (1 Sam. 
vi. 4, 5, 11.) Apollonius 1 is said to have swept off the 
flies from Antioch, and storks from Byzantium by figures 
(images) of these objects made while certain constel- 
lations were in the ascendant. In many cases' 2 Pliny 
notices the images of eagles and beetles carved on eme- 
ralds- and Marcellus Empiricus speaks of "the virtue 
of these beetles for diseases of the eye." 3 

R. Solomon says the teraphim of Scripture were 
''images that spoke by the influence of magical art."' 
And R. Eliezer says they were statues like men, formed 
under certain constellations, which spoke at certain 
times under certain influences, answering any question ; 
and from this we learn why Rachel stole the teraphim 
from her father Laban, lest he should learn the route 
of Jacob and the family. 4 In after-times came the 

1 Apollonius Tyanasus. 

2 See Maimonides, translated from More Nevochini, by Townley, p. 118. 

3 Maimonides, p. 118. 

* Spencer cle Legibus Hebrseorum, p. 354; Graffarel Curiositez Inouyes, 
p. 53, in Maimonides. 



262 



BEDOUIN WOMEN. 



amulets, being the same as talismans, save that they did 
not relate to the planetary influences, the name being 
probably derived from the Latin amolire, " to remove," 
more in reference to preventing than removing evil. The 
amulets of the Persians or Assyrians were small cylinders 
with figures, and those of the Komans and Greeks were 
small gems of almost every kind, worn as necklaces, &C. 1 
We succeeded in sketching our Bedouin friend as he 
sat, with apparent indifference, smoking on the ruins of 
the Tell Hum tower. The women and children were 
fearless and even social, exhibiting their hands and 
arms stained blue and red with henna. They examined 




1 Sabsean Res., by Landseer, gives unequivocal proof of this custom. 



BEDOUIN LIFE. 



263 



my clothes and my watch-chain with great curiosity, 
and seemed interested with our visit, jabbering away 
as if some great event was at hand. They were quite 
easy and polite, and not at all inclined to ask us for any 
thing, notwithstanding their wretched clothing. Several 
of the children wore garments rudely patched in places, 
as if they had been formed from varieties sewed together 
with grass. This was a genuine specimen of a Bedouin 
harem, and they were here on a farming-trip with their 
fathers and husbands, who were their masters. One of 
their tents, with a little fence surrounding it, I have re- 
presented in the distance. The tents are not conical, as 
is often represented in pictures, but have a roof edged 
with drop-curtains, or such curtains as might be made 
from the dark-tanned skins of goats hung around the 
eaves. 1 All sleep together, — men, women, children, and 
animals ; and the whole furniture and tent can be packed 
and be on the move in about twenty minutes. Hence 
the difficulty of administering justice to them in case 
of theft or even murder, as they can fly to the desert in 
a very few minutes' notice. 2 They are known by the 
striped garments and a cloth over the head, bound with 
a cord, generally of camel's hair : this company kept dogs 
with them. 

1 Hence the description in the Song of Solomon, ch. i. verse 5, "dark as 
the tents of Kedar," as "the curtains of Solomon," where curtains, as also 
in Isa. liv. 2, Jer. iv. 20, xlix. 39, is associated with the tents and derived 
from (yarang,) to tremble, as curtains do in the wind. 

2 Bedouin, or Badwy, signifies an inhabitant of the desert, according to 
D'Arvieux, p. 112; and the same signification is found in the term zaara, a 
.desert, Saracen, child of the desert ; also Sahara, the desert. — Clarke's Travels, 
note, p. 30. 



264 



CHORAZIN AND BETH SAID A. 



We examined the ruins lying north of the tower and 
several hundred yards distant. These are remains 
apparently of one — perhaps of two — temples in the 
Corinthian style, though on a block of marble there was 
in bas-relief a singular car, with four Ionic-capped 
columns sustaining an arched top, with a door repre- 
sented in front, the whole sustained by four wheels 
after the form of the old chariot- wheels. One of the 
bases of the many broken shafts measured two feet six 
inches in diameter. On returning to the ruined wall, I 
picked up a piece of the black rock, so closely resembling 
lava that its identity seemed perfect, especially as I 
afterward picked up some pieces of the porous brown 
scoria so frequently met with in the region of Naples. 
The tower contains fragments of the ruins which we have 
just visited; and this fact indicates that it was erected 
since the destruction of those temple-buildings. The 
impression left upon us by the ruins themselves was not 
favorable to the idea that there ever was a large city 
on the spot, but that the remains of a few large public 
buildings or temples had been distributed so widely as 
simply to resemble the ruin of a town. Perhaps, as 
Bethsaida on the east of Jordan was at Tell Julias, so 
Bethsaida on the west might have been at this place or 
near it, and Chorazin not far off to the southwest. But 
even the names have perished; and who shall be able 
to settle where the ruins were? 1 

Shortly before one o'clock we leave for Tiberias, 
t/ 

1 One of the corner-stones of the temple measured seven feet in length and 
two feet four inches in thickness. 



FLOWERS AND SHELLS. 



265 



occasionally passing fragments of scoria on the shore. 
Passing at twenty-five minutes after one o'clock under 
an arch with stalactite-formations, which seem to have 
been increasing of late years, we come to a mill and a 
fine stream. There are cranes and ducks, and over the 
lake one solitary bird, similar in appearance and flight 
to the sea-gull. There are the cane and oleander, with 
a variety of the water- willow, and a plant growing near 
the edge of the water, with leaves like the water-willow 
in color, but only about one inch in length, bearing 
small flowers resembling lilac-flowers in shape and 
size, but growing on the stem among the leaves and 
near the termination of the branch. The small flowers 
are yellow within, gray without, and have five serrated 
petals. 1 Either here or farther north we obtained a 
specimen of the jujube-tree, 2 a branch of which is repre- 
sented in the plate of flowers, running along the base 
of the group, and having alternate long and short 
thorns, the leaves of which appear again at the top 
of the flowers. (See description accompanying the 
plate.) This grows about Beirut, with small leaves; 
but I think a variety with a much larger leaf grows 
here. A few leaves are all the material left from which 
to form this opinion. 

For some time no shells are seen on the shore, but 
only smooth flint-pebbles and stones ; but suddenly we 
meet with great quantities of little conchoidal specimens, 
together with spiral forms and several bivalves of the 

1 It is probably a variety of the Elseagnus angustifolia of Linnseus. 

2 Ziziphus vulgaris, Tourn. 



266 



CAPERNAUM. 



unio variety, having unusually thick shells, and capable of 
being cut and polished until the pearl appears with a most 
beautiful iridescence. Along this shore have been found 
fragments of native gold. 1 This we did not learn till 
afterward, and therefore saw nothing which indicated it. 
At a quarter before two o'clock we rode up on a road cut 
in an overhanging cliff, six feet wide, and in some places 
five feet deep, in the rock, and evidently once paved 
with rock of a material different from that in which it 
was cut. At ten minutes before two o'clock we pass 
Khan Minyeh, where Capernaum is thought to have 
been located. It was visited in the sixth century by 
Antoninus the martyr, who speaks of a church erected 
in this vicinity on what was considered the site of Peter's 
house. 2 There are ruins of a building apparently eighty 
to one hundred feet in length and twenty feet high; but 
other ruins are not apparent. Yet this does not make 
it improbable that Capernaum was located here ; for how 
many places have had their ruins completely carried away 
to erect neighboring villages, especially where there was 
a scarcity of building-material! Among these scattered 
modern villages are to be found the ruins of Capernaum, 
not on its former site. 

We are now on the plain of Gennesaret, plentifully 
watered, as will be seen by the following mention of the 
rivulets we passed. The plain appears to be half a mile 



1 Dr. E. D. Clarke quotes Hegesippus de Excid. Urb. Hiero., lib. iii. c. 
26, for authority, and says he noticed an appearance of the kind. P. 241, 
n. 586. 

2 See Reland's Palestine: "Capernaum." 



CAVES USED AS STRONGHOLDS. 



267 



wide and one and a half mile long. 1 We are travelling 
at a regular walk along the shore, and at ten minutes 
after two o'clock meet a little water-course, a minute 
after another, four minutes after another, where the 
shore is so much like a quicksand that my companion's 
horse sinks suddenly up to his haunches. Three minutes 
more, and we come to an abrupt bank of small and 
colored shells. Twelve minutes more, and our guide 
cautiously sends my friend ahead to ford another creek. 
Twenty minutes more, and again we ford a little creek ; 
and near this creek, on the shore, there is a crab as 
large as a man's hand, of a singular form. Here a 
rock distinctly shows that the lake is twenty inches 
lower than it has been at some previous time. At 
three o'clock we pass from the plain at El Mejdel, or 
Mag del A, a few yards from the shore. It is the town 
of Mary Magdalene, a small place, and of no special in- 
terest otherwise than by scriptural association. Above 
us the rocks are lofty and the scenery exceedingly inte- 
resting. Herds are browsing on the cliffs, and not far 
off are the mouths of caverns and places once occupied as 
tombs, and frequently referred to in the Gospels. 2 Some 
of these caves were also used as strongholds in the time 
of the Jewish wars; and no doubt there are interesting 
relics yet to be found in some of them if any one would 
be at the pains to explore them. They are found in many 
of the hills, and on the opposite side of the lake also. 

1 Thermometer in the sun at two o'clock, 71°; in a spring beyond Mejdel, 
74° ; in the sea, near the spring, hut out of its influence, 73°. 

2 Matt. viii. 28 ; Mark v. 2, 3, 5 ; Luke viii. 27. 



268 



a Mohammedan's grave. 



But west of Mejdel are caverns noted in the time of 
J osephus as the fortified dens of robbers who were with 
great difficulty dislodged by Herod the Great, and not 
till parties of soldiers were let down from the over- 
hanging cliffs in boxes sustained by chains, who fought 
the inhabitants with fire and sword, dragging them out 
with hooks. 1 This happened near the present ruins 
of Irbid, the probable Arbela, and not far from the 
ruins of Kulat (or castle) Ibn Ma'an, about two miles 
from the shore and northwest of Irbid. (See map.) 

In thirty-six minutes after leaving Magdala we reach 
a spring running from under a bank, near which is 
a tree over a Mohammedan's grave. — our guide says 
a saint, — and attached to the branches are fragments 
of white, red, and blue cloth, to which any one passing 
may add, according to the reverence he has for the saint 
who is supposed to lie buried beneath. We ride on 
to Tiberias, and dismount at the hotel at twenty-two 
minutes after four o'clock. 2 

Our host, who is a German Jew, furnishes us with a 
bed apiece, and our cook presides in the kitchen. He 
exhibited to me a book which he asserts is one thousand 
years old; and yet it is printed in Hebrew and Rabbinic- 
Hebrew characters. The scenery about the lake, as the 
long shadows of evening are thrown upon it, seems deeply 

1 Josephus's Antiquities, xiv. 15, 4, and Wars of the Jews, i. 16, 2. Robin 
son's Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 281. 

2 Our host and some Arabs agree in saying that the spring we passed 
about a half-hour past, and which was surrounded by walls, was called 
Ain Doureh, and also Folia. Called by some Ain el Barideh, or the cool 
spring, — probably from a notion of its temperature not altogether correct, 
as the temperature was 74°, and therefore not cool. 



LAKE-SCENE. 



269 



and strangely interesting. There is so much wildness 
about it, so much that is unusual and unlike those tame 
pictures of sceneric beauty that even good painters pro- 
duce, it is so surrounded with weird-like ruins and 
caverns, and visited by such remarkable birds and 
coasted with such shells and flowers and plants, together 
with the association of volcanic agencies which seem 
still to be in operation in the vicinity, — all these facts, 
united to its sacred and classic histories, give to this 
lake an interest which cannot be found in connection 
with any other in the world. 



270 



CHINNEROTH. 



CHAPTER XII. 

TIBERIAS AND THE ROUTE TO NAZARETH. 

Tiberias, perhaps, was only rebuilt by Herod 1 on a 
spot previously memorable as the site of another city. 
The very fact that anterior to the founding of the city 
by Herod " there were here many ancient sepulchres" 2 
affords reason to conclude that there must have been 
some motive for the burial of the dead at this place simi- 
lar to that which suggests burial near Jerusalem, Safed, 
Meiron, and even Tiberias, where the tombs and sepul- 
chres are erected near the walls. These sepulchres there- 
fore indicated an ancient settlement before the time at 
which they were noticed by Herod, who founded the pre- 
sent town and named it Tiberias, after the Emperor, his 
friend and patron. That ancient city, as Jerome affirms, 
might have been Chinneroth. 3 Tiberias was the principal 
city of the Jews in all matters appertaining to their lite- 
rature ; and men lived and died here who, had their studies 

1 Herod Antipas, son of Herod the Great, and the one who took Herodias, 
"his brother Philip's wife." Matt. xiv. 1. Josephus's Antiquities, xviii. 2, 3. 
Wars of the Jews, ii. 9, 1. He afterward suffered in consequence of a "sug- 
gestion by Herodias, and died with his wife in exile at Lyons, in Gaul. 

2 Josephus, Antiquities, xviii. 2, 3. 

3 See Robinson's Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 266, for authority. 
Hieron. Com. Ezek. xlviii. 21, and references in Geographical Appendix. 



STRANGE CUSTOM. 



271 




CITY AND LAKE OF TIBERIAS, LOOKING EAST. 



been classic instead of Jewish, would have ranked high 
among the most learned of the world. There are several 
still remaining whose knowledge of the Hebrew Scriptures 
is remarkable ; but it has more intimate connection with 
the mere readings and variations of the text than with 
the history of the nation or of its literature. Among one 
class of Jews in the town the custom described by Burck- 
hardt 1 and noticed by Dr. Wilson 2 still exists, (1857,) 
though somewhat modified. It consists in a representation 
of the acts described in the passages read in the syna- 
gogue, and is performed during the time of reading. It 
seems ridiculous to a spectator to hear the imitation of 
the sound of a trumpet through the hearers' hands when 
its sound is spoken of in the assembly, or to see a trem- 



1 Pp. 326, 327. 



Vol. ii. p. 133. 



272 



HEBREW SCHOLARS. 



bling when the act is described, or a violent mourning 
and rending of garments when such signs are referred 
to in reading; yet it is a form for which they alone 
have the interpretation. I was singularly impressed 
with the arbitrary character of forms when, at a pre- • 
vious time, I attended with an esteemed Jewish friend 
the synagogue of which he was the reader. On entering. 
I removed my hat, but was immediately requested to 
replace it, as it was considered irreverent to God's word 
and disrespectfid to the congregation to sit " uncovered" 
in the synagogue. 1 

There are generally considered to be about nine 
hundred J ews in Tiberias ; and my host says the whole 
population is twenty-five hundred. It was here, in the 
middle of the second century, that the celebrated Rabbi 
Judah, surnamed the holy, (Hakkedesh,) lived, who 
soon after the destruction of Jerusalem was president 
of the most celebrated school of Hebrew law and lite- 
rature. He was at this time the head of the Sanhedrim 
or national council of the Jews, which from Jerusalem 
was removed, after several changes, to Sepphoris, (Se- 
furieh, fifteen miles west,) and thence to Tiberias. He 
committed to writing the theological traditions of the 
Jews, — an act hitherto considered unlawful. These 
traditions form the Talmud, which signifies doctrine. 
and comprises the Mishna, or repetition, (i.e. second 



1 The reason given was that God did not wish his worshippers to feel 
otherwise than at home in his sanctuary ; and the form was expressive of 
that feeling. I apprehend it owes its origin to a commentary on Leviticus 
x. 6, xxi. 10. 



THE VERY ROCK. 



273 



law,) and the Gamara, or completion. The Mishna is 
the text; the Gamara is the commentary, of which 
there are two,— the Jerusalem and the Babylonian. 
Rabbi Jochanan composed the Gamara of Jerusalem at 
Tiberias ; and he lies buried, as does Rabbi J udah, at 
Sepphoris. 1 (See Appendix V. for further information on 
this subject.) 

We visited some places near the shore, and were 
shown a church which the sacristan affirmed was built 
upon the veritable rock of which the Saviour spoke when 
he said to Peter, "On this rock I build my Church." It 
is a little, dingy-looking building, on the flat top of which, 
near sunset of yesterday, we saw a priest walking with a 
rope around his waist. The appearance of the scenery 
in the morning is considerably varied from that of even- 
ing, and might require a somewhat different descrip- 
tion from that which an evening view would suggest. 
Different positions, at different times of day and under 
various states of the traveller's health and temper, 
will give rise to various descriptions and impressions. 
But in any light the lake is pleasant and attractive in 
many respects, and would form a pleasant retreat during a 
part of the year. The city was once (a.d. 1552-1559) de- 
scribed as being uninhabitable for its many serpents; 2 
but, though serpents are found, they were not seen by 
us. The lake- water is not blue, though it evidently 



1 Dr. Wilson, vol. ii. p. 131. Rabbi Juclah died at Sepphoris. Robinson's 
Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 203. 

2 Bonifacius de Pereni Cultu Ter. Sane, lib. ii., quoted by Dr. E. D. 
Clarke, n., 607. 

18 



274 



FISH OF THE LAKE. 



contains traces of iodine in combination, which is sup- 
posed to be the cause of the intense blue of the Lake of 
Geneva. Hence Lord Byron's simile drawn from the 
color of the waters of this lake is beautiful only in the 
imagination : — 

" The sheen of their spears was like stars on the sea 
When the blue waves roll nightly on deep Galilee." 

The waters are, however, singularly pellucid, and rival 
those of the American Lake George in this respect ; for 
fish can be seen at a great depth when not near the cur- 
rent which the Jordan sends down or the discoloration 
which we noticed only opposite small tributaries. 1 

Passing out of the gate, we ascended the hill west of 
the city and in the foreground of the last view on page 
271. The old castle appears partly ruined on the left, and 
the single minaret and three palm-trees are in the proper 
position in the view which represents Tiberias looking 
east. Travelling toward Cana, we lost sight of the volcanic 
soil and occasional scorise after about ten miles' distance 
from Tiberias. Immediately after leaving Tiberias, we 
passed on the right a plain, which appeared well because 
of its tillage, and was being ploughed by the Bedouin into 

x It is said that fish are found here not met with elsewhere. We think 
this probable, but not in reference to all, for several fish found here we 
afterward saw taken from the Mediterranean, as the Mullet (Mullus bai- 
batus) and Surmuletus. The fish found here are the Trigla Corax, with a 
large head and protruding eyes ; is this the Coracine of Josephus ? Hassel- 
quist notices also the Benni ; back convex, four cirrhi, or horns, two on upper 
lip, two at corners of mouth; silvery lustre, upper jaw longer than lower; no 
teeth ; 'tis a common fish in Egypt, He notices also the Charmuth, Silurus 
Mulsil, and Sparus Galilaaus. Of the appearance of these I am not certain. 
Voyages and Travels in the Levant, p. 159; Loud., 1766. 



WHEAT-CROPS. 



275 



large square plots. At a quarter-past nine — a few minutes 
less than an hour from the hotel — we had ascended the 
highest part of our road, overlooking the city. The 
soil is mellow but brown. Eighteen minutes farther, 
and Mount Tabor is seen south-southwest; and after an 
additional fifteen minutes — or about two hours from Tibe- 
rias, — we lose sight of the lake and meet with level tracts 
with grain several inches in height. It is sparsely planted, 
thin, and yellow, and seems to indicate a sour soil, — which 
the course adopted in America of " top-dressing" with 
any alkaline material, and deep ploughing, would effec- 
tually remedy. These fair level places ought to pro- 
duce thirty to forty bushels of wheat per acre, under 
proper treatment. The soil is arable, in places per- 
fectly free from rock of any kind, and level, and has a 
rich appearance, unless the brown is clue simply to 
basaltic decomposition, which, from analysis of similar 
soil taken some miles distant, we suppose is not the 
case here. From present appearances, this wheat will 
return but little more than the seed used in planting 
it. Some fields in the distance look better; and we 
ride on, occasionally rousing a covey of partridges, until 
we stop at a circular pool on the right to water the 
horses. We have passed several little villages,— Dameh 
on the left and now Lubieh on the' right, — one or 
two large plains, and arrived at Kenna at ten minutes 
before one. This place I knew had been considered 
Cana of Galilee, where our Saviour's first miracle 1 was 



1 John ii. 



276 



A NEW THICK. 



performed; and churches had been built, and many tears 
had been wept, over its associations and ruins. 1 But 
Dr. Robinson had clearly shown that the probabilities 
were that another Cana, eight miles northwest of this, 
called Cana el Jelil, — an Arabic form of Cana of Galilee, 
— was the true Cana, and that this, called by the Arabs 
Kefr or "village" Cana, was but traditionally the Cana 
of Scripture. On entering, I inquired of our guide and 
Arabs the name. "Kefr Kenna," was the reply; "and 
it is also called Kenna el Jelil." On asking how it 
happened that it had two names, the reply was that 
"formerly it was called Kenna el Jelil, but it was now 
frequently called Kefr Kenna." Suspecting that this was 
a new feature in the history of the guides rather than in 
that of the place, I left the company, and, inquiring of 
one of the natives the name of the village, was an- 
swered, after some hesitation, "Jelil." I afterward 
became satisfied that this was a new name, introduced 
to preserve the character of the place as the genuine 
Cana of Galilee; and the trick has been taught the 
inhabitants by others than the natives. For such a 
deception as this they are fully prepared, and their 
natural shrewdness is quite sufficient to enable them to 
see the consequence of a diversion of travel. 

A few ruins lay about, and a shaft or two at the place 
said to be that at which our Saviour performed the 
miracle. We passed on to a fountain beyond the 
village, at which six or eight women were washing 

1 See description by Dr. E. D. Clarke of the effect of the priest's tears on 
the sailors accompanying him, (p. 229.) 



WEARING A FORTUNE ON THE HEAD, 277 



clothes by striking them with a short paddle. On a 
broken marble shaft we ate our customary lunch and 
drank from the fountain from which, according to tra- 
dition, the water was taken which filled the vessels for 
the feast at Cana at which the miracle was performed. 
A woman brought us two little girls who were quite 
white and fair, telling us that they were orphans, for 
whom she wanted the " backshish," — which, however, we 
gave to a little fellow who had gathered for us a " figu- 
rino," as the fruit of the prickly pear is termed. Our 
mules arrived; and, measuring the fountain, we left, after 
thirty-five minutes' rest. 1 I noticed a little Arab girl 
taking water up from where her feet had been, from 
which spot we also had been drinking. One of them had 
her head bound round the forehead with a great num- 
ber of piastres and half-piastres strung on a cord, — which, 
I find, is a fashion here among young girls of a certain 
age, and evidently arises from a desire to exhibit the " sum 
and substance" of their fortune with the idea of in- 
creasing their attraction. At twenty-seven minutes past 
two, we left, and, after a gentle ascent from the foun- 
tain, obtained the following view of the village and the 
surrounding hills. In thirty minutes after leaving 
the spring the soil is distinctly limestone, the ba- 
saltic appearance having totally disappeared. 2 Concave 

1 The fountain ran, from two or three openings in the rock, into an oblong 
basin with steps descending to it, — water one foot deep, — connected with 
another basin six feet square and two deep. From thence it went down-hill. 

2 '1 he reader will be aided in understanding the various surface-appear- 
ances by a brief study of the geological strata in the section of the Dead Sea, 
wherein all those which appear in Palestine are shown, but in their more un- 
disturbed geological order than when the strata have appeared at the surface. 



278 



NATIVE GRACE. 




KEFR CAN A, LOOKING NORTHEAST. 

plains or basins, looking as if the surface had sunk uni- 
formly, appear between the heights west of Tiberias and 
Kefr Kenna. One is especially noticeable, two hours west 
of the lake, and southwest of the two peaks the " horns 
of Hattin." In the view of Kenna, the fountain is hid- 
den by a ledge ; and the reputed place of the miracle is 
opposite a girl with a pitcher on her shoulder, half- 
way down the same ledge, behind which is the foun- 
tain. At a quarter-past two, on descending into a 
valley of variegated verdure, a little fellow meets us, 
of about thirteen years of age, driving a mule; and the 
perfect grace of his salute, as he places his hand upon 
his breast and bends with admirable ease, is so incom- 
parably in advance of the spasmodic postures of our 

French friend M s, the dancing-master, that I am 

almost guilty of the heresy of asserting that the most 



NAZARETH. 



2 7'.' 



natural grace is not the product of the dancing-school. 
But I only take the liberty of silently asking myself 
the question. " Who sent these Arabs to dancing-school V 
At twenty minutes after two. we pass a little village 
(Reinehj and fountain, the former on the right and the 
latter on the left, from which a number of girls are 
carrying water. One of them tells me that the name of the 
village is pronounced Ray-nee. It is built against the hill, 
similarly to Nazareth. A few moments before, we saw 
for a short time the Mediterranean, which from this spot 
mast be nearly twenty miles distant. Here is an admirable 
position for taking bearings from the coast to get the true 
position of Nazareth; for in twenty-five minutes from 
Beineh Nazareth suddenly appears on our right. It lies 
half-way up a hill facing south-southeast ; and at our posi- 
tion, a mile off. it appears more like a city than any place 



280 



DINNER AT A CONVENT. 



we have seen since we left Beirut. Surrounding hills, par- 
tially cultivated in square-ploughed plats, the apparent 
roads, and the distant sound of a bell, perhaps from the 
convent, the minaret, and on the right the little Wely 
Ismail on the mountain, all add much to the interest of 
Nazaeeth ; and the position of the city, with the general 
topography and appearance of the country, may very 
well be understood from the sketch on the preceding 
page, looking south-southwest. 

Riding along the hill in the foreground, we descended 
into the valley or basin, and then along the road to the 
arch near the square wall just this side of the city. Here 
we found fifteen or twenty young women and girls draw- 
ing water from the so-called Fountain of the Virgin, which 
is at the angle of the square wall and at the entrance of 
the city. Some were dressed in most glaring rather than 
brilliant colors. One or two looked quite fair; but the 
larger number had a terrifically wild expression about the 
eyes and face generally. Their appearance will perhaps 
be better understood by saying that it resembled the pe- 
culiar hawk-like restlessness which some of the young 
Bedouin Arab children sometimes show about the eye, 
and which some time afterward, though with exceeding 
difficulty, I succeeded in daguerreotyping, through the 
interposition of some residents who were known to the 
family. We passed into the city, and at five minutes 
after three were in the convent, ready for dinner, with a 
capital appetite. 

Nazareth has more of a modern air about its buildings 
than is usual in the towns we have visited, — though 



WINES OF SYRIA. 



281 



there are antique arches, and particularly one very strong 
and complete. Several walls are composed of the cream- 
colored and compact limestone, and parts of the vails 
seem to have been removed from other places and from 
buildings whose architecture was totally distinct from 
those in which they are at present placed and in which 
they have been for a Ion £ time. 

From a notice in Italian, it appears that the friars 
extend their hospitality to strangers for three clays free 
of expense, including the use of room and beds, furnish- 
ing their table quite well enough to please hungry men. 
Dinner being announced, we entered the sitting-room- 
and the first dish uncovered presented to our view a soup 
of vermicelli. Though undoubtedly good to some, the taste 
of some strange oil made it "violently" unpalatable to me. 
An excellent friend who sat next to me, and who makes 
it a point to eat some things " asking no questions," 
continued tasting, — though, from the appearance of his 
countenance, it was more from the true courtesy of his 
nature than from any thing delectable in the dish. Next 
came fish; for, being Friday, the monks give no meat; then 
sardines surrounding a "bold fat onion" and a little 
bread. The wine, said to be made in this region, I tasted. 
It was of the color of cider and as strong as the lightest 
Ehine wines. Of a similar character were the Tiberias 
wines, being somewhat stronger and redder. 1 After dinner 

1 From the general strength of the wines of the country, I am inclined to 
think that intoxication in times past must have been the result of long 
drinking, if only such wines as these existed in those days ; for, while the 
alcoholic ingredient is evidently present, it is in such small quantities and 
60 combined that an occasional use cf the wine could not produce intoxi- 



282 



SACRED PLACES. 



— which was late — we attended to our journals and were 
soon introduced to our bedrooms by the monks. This 
was the first time in Palestine that we were the guests 
of monks at a convent. The next morning we examined 
the various places of interest; and, while we have — with 
good reason — a respect for many traditions upon which 
the traveller in this land is frequently dependent, the 
result of our visit to the various cells and rooms was a 
general impression not altogether favorable to the 

cation, and would not have a tendency to create that morbid thirst which 
always follows, more or less, the use of the American wines. At present, as 
in the Scripture times, the wines vary in appearance, in strength and 
refinement. The wines of Helbon (Ezek. xxvii. 18) were characteristically 
different from the wines of Lebanon (Hos. xvi. 7,) and these from others, 
(Isa. xxv. 6.) This difference may have been in strength, as well as 
in other peculiarities. But it is evident that the natural strength of 
the wines of ancient and Biblical times was not sufficiently great to suit the 
tastes of wine-bibbers of that clay ; or they would not have had recourse 
to the mixtures which in the time of the Saviour were common throughout the 
Roman Empire, and in use in the times of Solomon, (Prov. xxiii. 30.) 
The habit of tarrying long at wine, and that of drinking to excess, referred to 
by the apostles, (Eph. v. 18 ; 1 Peter iv. 3,) existed in St. Paul's time to such an 
extent that Tiberius, the Roman Emperor, according to Suetonius, spent 
whole days at his excesses, and in one instance spent a night and two days 
at the festal table without leaving it, (see Sueton. in Vit. Tiberii, c. 42, 43, 
44 and 45;) so also did Vitellius to a most shameful extent, (idem, in Vit. 
Vitel.) This was the state of things with the rulers during the lives of the 
Apostles Peter and Paul, which also corrupted the morals of the wealthy citi- 
zens. It is related of one Claudius, the son of a player by the name of Esop, 
— himself an extravagant epicure, — that, among other extravagances, he 
dissolved pearls in the liquors which were served up at his table, (Plin. lib. 
ix. c. 35, and Macrob. lib. iii. c. 14.) It was to these excesses in drinking 
that the commands of the Scripture particularly referred, and not to the 
temperate use of the wines of the country. Those advocates, therefore, of 
the temperance-reform, who strive to sustain a great principle by attempt- 
ing to prove that the wine which the Saviour made at Cana contained no 
alcohol, contradict the clearest facts; and, if they succeeded, they would 
only lose sight of the more exalted principle of this reform stated in Rom. 
xiv.21, 1 Cor.viii. 13, which appeals not to any arguments founded on the sup- 
position of sin in the use, but to the most exalted patriotism on the one hand, 
and to the noblest sentiment of a self-sacrificing Christianity on the other. 



JOSEPH'S WORKSHOP. 



283 



intellectuality nor to the piety of those who display so 
many relics and deal in so much minutiae in respect to 
them. However, it is not well to pass them by entirely. 
We visited the church, — -which possesses, according to 
tradition, the veritable room where the angel appeared 
to Mary, — and were conducted to the back of the altar, 
where the singing of matins was accompanied by an organ 
which sounded pleasantly to us, and then down some 
steps by a monk carrying a taper. Soon we entered a cir- 
cular chamber with a dome-roof, where was an altar. 
Here was a spot of peculiar sanctity, but about which 
nothing but the sanctity was stated Then we ascended a 
little and entered another room, where it was said that 
Joseph and Mary had lived; and the iron catch was 
shown us still in the wall, and the hole where the 
wooden bolt or bar had entered, and then the little 
window. These are apparently very old; and the 
square stones in the wall and roof show that, though 
Joseph and Mary may never have been blessed with 
so comfortable a residence, they are quite as antique 
as any thing seen at Rome. We then visited a small, 
low room, where is an altar and a light kept constantly 
burning. This room is said to have been the work- 
shop of Joseph; and a picture hangs over the altar repre- 
senting Joseph at a "very respectable" modern work- 
bench with the latest improvements, and the infant 
Jesus by his side. However oddly this picture appeared, 
one thing was worthy of notice, — that there were no 
angels to be seen, at least, we did not see them, 
and were quite relieved from the crowd which we gene- 



284 



A NEW TABLE EOR THE SUPPER. 



rally see intrusively sprinkled as plentifully as grass- 
hoppers over every thing with which Mary, Joseph, or 
any of the saints have had any thing to do. Indeed, in 
Italy angels are quite below par, — just worth nothing; 
for their heads, wings, and feathers are as common as 
mosquitos; and one is quite gratified when a picture is 
seen where no angels' heads or eyes are staring over 
winged shoulders at him. We next expected to be shown 
some of Joseph's tools, and began to look about for them, 
as the impression gains upon the visitor that they will 
come next on the catalogue; but on inquiry our sacristan 
gravely considered, as more eminent antiquaries have 
done before him, " that it was doubtful." There was still 
another place to be seen; and, resigning ourselves to the 
guide, we were led through the arch spoken of before 
into a yard, and then into a building where we were told 
that the Saviour partook of the Supper before and after 
his resurrection and death. A large rock is seen in the 
middle of the chapel, ten and a half feet in diameter and 
thirty-two feet nine inches in circumference, a little higher 
at one side than at the other, and at that place three 
feet from the floor. This is the rock upon which our 
Lord, it is said, partook of the Supper; and there are 
several holes in which the bread was put. 1 

1 A little board with the following inscription is hung up in a room on the 
left of the entrance, with an inscription in Latin, Italian, and Arabic. The 
Latin reads thus: Tradictio continua est et nunquam interrupta apud 
omnis nationis Orien talis : hunc petram dictam Mensa Christi illam ipsam 
esse — supra quam Dominus N. Jesus Christus cum suis comedit Discipulis 
ante et post suam Resurrectionem a mortuis — Et Sta. Romana ecclesia 
Indulgentiam concessit 7 annorum et totidem quadragenorum omnibus 
Christi fidelibus hunc sanctum locum visitantibus : recitando saltern ibi 



virgin's fount. 



285 



So a new fact in the history of the Saviour is dis- 
covered, and this rock is visited, and Ave Marias and 
Paternosters are said over a stone which we have no 
reason but from tradition to believe was ever visited by 
the Saviour or any of his disciples. Immediately back 
of the church is a bluff or cliff some fifty or sixty feet in 
height, to the edge of which it is very probable that the 
Saviour was led when the enraged crowd intended to 
cast him down, but he " passed through the midst of 
them." Other places are spoken of, each as the moun- 
tain of precipitation, and at a distance from the town ; 
but the gospel-narrative says it was a hill "whereon 
their city was built." 1 

Of the many localities pointed out, (all of which it 
never harms the intelligent traveller to visit if inclina- 
tion permit,) one may be looked upon with interest. It 
is the Fountain of the Virgin, at the entrance to the 
town. In 1306, it was described 2 as the fountain from 
which Jesus when a child brought water to his mother, 
and that, " the pitcher being broken with which he was 
accustomed to carry it, he conveyed it in his bosom," 
(in gremio,) by which I suppose, if any thing definitely, 
is meant that he carried it in the apron or dress of skin 

unum Pater et Ave Maria dummodo sit in statu gratia. There may be an 
error in transcribing, as good Latin would require that the last two words 
should be different in termination, and quadragenorum should be differently 
spelled. The author transcribed it on the spot, intending to copy even the 
punctuation, and therefore supposes the words to be as they are spelled ; 
but Dr. E. D. Clarke in 1801 records it somewhat differently, or else copies 
a different tablet. See Travels, note, 493. 

1 Luke iv. 29. 

2 Marinus Sanutus, sec. Fidel. Cruc, lib. iii. pars. vii. cap. 2, by E. D. 
Clarke, 482. 



286 SIGHTS FROM THE HILL OF NAZARETH. 



sometimes worn at that time. This may be simply an 
imaginative story; but there can be little doubt that 
this fountain once supplied the holy family; and as 
Jesus "was subject to his parents" in this town for years, 
doubtless his cheerful steps, in obedience to a lofty filial 
affection, were often directed to and from this very foun- 
tain. 

The church built over the house of Joseph is men- 
tioned by writers in the seventh century; 1 and, though 
there are doubtless many things exhibited therein which 
rather pain than please, there is no reason to disbelieve 
the assertion that at this place was the residence of Mary 
and Joseph. In 1263, the town of Nazareth and the 
. church formerly erected here, together with the Church 
of the Transfiguration on Mt. Tabor, were laid in ruins. 
In 1620, under Fakir ed Din, the Franciscan monks 
obtained permission to rebuild the church ; but Nazareth 
has been generally represented as a small village, though 
it contains about twenty-five hundred inhabitants. About 
1801, Djezzar Pacha, "the Butcher," ground down the 
people here to such an extent that many left their 
homes and farms to avoid his heavy taxes and his 
robberies. 

From the hill on the north of Nazareth may be seen 
the Mediterranean and the little village Yafa, two miles 
distant, consisting of about thirty houses, — perhaps the 
Japhia of Joshua; Semunieh, nearly west, — the Simonias 



1 Thus Pococke affirms in his Description of the East, vol. ii. part i. p. 63, 
London, 1745. Robinson's Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 197. 



MOUNT CARMEL. 



287 



of Josephus; 1 Jebata, southwest and near the plain of 
Esdraelon, — the Gebatha of Eusebius and Jerome; and 
the more interesting village Sefurieh, north by west 
about four miles, — the Sepphoris of Josephus, of which 
we have already spoken, with its ruined castle on the 
isolated hill near by. It was called Dioccesarea by 
the Romans. Josephus, an architect, (sometimes con- 
founded with Josephus the historian,) obtained permis- 
sion to erect a church here in the time of Constantine. 2 

North, about eight miles distant, is Cana of Galilee, 
(Kenna Jelil.) Between Sepphoris and Nazareth is the 
fountain of Sepphoris, at which the armies of the Cru- 
saders assembled in their glory before the fatal battle 
(a.d. 1187) with Saladin at Hattin, about ten miles 
northeast of Nazareth. Mt. Carmel is seen southwest, 
Mt. Tabor southeast, Jebel es Sheik on the north, and 
Jebel ed Duhy south-southeast, with Mt. Gilboa in the 
same direction. East of us are seen several hills across 
the Lake of Galilee, in the provinces described before. 3 

Mt. Carmel presents from this hill its long line of ridges 
slightly descending toward the shore. It does not exhibit 
a "peak or sugar-loaf height," as some might imagine who 
view it from the sea. Suddenly springing up near the coast, 
it runs in a southeast direction for about ten miles, appa- 
rently rising all the distance. It then breaks and com- 
mences^ gradually to descend and takes a more southerly 
course, gradually descending in numberless hills to the 



1 Josephus, Life, § 24. 

2 Dr. E. D. Clarke, note, 549. Robinson's Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 202. 

3 Page 255. 



288 



MISTAKES IN PERSPECTIVE. 



plain on the coast. After actual measurement, it is 
often found that calculations of a level at a distance 
are incorrect, from the fact that we judge of distances 
and comparative level by simple perspective, which often 
itself depends upon distance. A ridge may have an ap- 
parent and a real diminishing line, as when it actually 
sinks at the end of the line, when at the same time that 
end approaches the observer. Then it may assume the 
apparent form of a straight line and yet be in reality a 
circular ridge. So also when one end of the line actually 
rises but appears from its retrocession into the distance 
to keep its perspective line horizontal. A good spy- 
glass will often correct this mistake; but nothing but 
practice will enable the observer to avoid an error into 
which many travellers fall in judging of the comparative 
level of ridges from a distant position. 

We leave Nazareth with feelings of regret. We 
cannot in so short a season realize the facts which 
history has recorded of this city. One needs some 
time, after visiting all that will be shown him if he 
chooses to be led about, before he is in a state of mind 
to enjoy the calm, clear light of truths which halo 
this place with such solemn and such affecting interests. 
Here the earliest days were spent of One who, as Na- 
poleon once said, "founded an empire, not upon force, but 
love; and at this hour millions of men would die for him." 
No place in Palestine is to my mind so suggestive of 
lively, mysterious, and rapturous thoughts as this. Not 
Bethlehem nor Jerusalem knew so much of Jesus during 
the years of his social and early life and the days of his 



THE CHILDHOOD OF JESUS. 



289 



early friendships as Nazareth. The very fact that so 
few tales of his earlier years have reached us even in the 
pages of tradition contains a lesson that should charm 
us with the thought of that unobtrusive majesty which 
veiled itself in Jesus' childhood, to teach our noisy and 
pretentious religion that the value of the little stream 
which has irrigated some field of earth is only known 
by the verdure which springs up long after it has hidden 
itself in the limitless ocean. 



19 



290 



MERRY GIRLS. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

MOUNT TABOR, THE PLAIN OF ESDRAELON, AND MOUNT CARMEL. 

We announced to our dragoman our intention to visit 
Mt. Tabor this morning. The usual opposition was 
anticipated; but we were agreeably surprised to find 
that a sudden change had come over him, from a motive 
which, though we suspected, we did not expose. He 
sees we are determined on carrying our point, and that 
our report to the consul at Beirut will probably deprive 
him of future custom. Last night he made an apology 
for his conduct at Safed; and it is granted in all sin- 
cerity, but without the least intention of changing our 
course a mile in any direction. We hired an extra guide, 
for whom we agreed to pay forty-five piastres, and at 
twenty minutes before eight o'clock set out for Mt. 
Tabor. 1 

Riding somewhat in advance of my party, I again 
met the girls at the fountain, who were inclined to be 
sportive, though very prompt in replying to me, and 
were altogether just as full of fun and frolic at my ap- 
pearance and my attempts to answer them as any girls 



1 We noticed that Nazareth faces southerly, — more accurately, south- 
southeast. 



ASCENT OF MOUNT TABOR. 



291 



could be at home, — proving, at least as far as girls are 
concerned, the " unity of the human race." Some looked 
well, but the same fierceness of eye is apparent, and I 
cannot feel a sympathy in the raptures expressed by 
M. de Saulcy in reference to their beauty; but, in 
regard to this, tastes differ. 1 

In thirty minutes after leaving the city we descend 
slightly into a little plain which is an offshoot of the 
great plain of Jezreel. 2 Three miles east by south of 
Nazareth we have a broad view of the plain, which 
immediately shows us that here we are on what may 
properly be called the "great plain." A few undu- 
lations to the village Deburieh, at the foot of Mt. Tabor, 
do not destroy the impression that this is the most 
northern part of the plain and that here we should com- 
mence to measure its extent. The scrub-oak appears in 
every direction, and the soil is brown, though we see 
no lava nor basaltic fragments. We commence the ascent 
of Mt. Tabor, which has a very singular geological appear- 
ance as it stands apart, being an almost entirely insu- 
lated flat-top conical hill-peak, with merely a low ridge 
north-northwest and south-southeast connecting it with 
any mountain-ranges. It is very similar in form to 
some of the chalk-hills we have seen in the Southern 
States, the perpendicular height not exceeding eight hun- 
dred feet above the plain half a mile west of its base. 3 Not- 



1 See De Saulcy, vol. ii. p. 317. 2 Or Esdraelon. 

3 The W. Bireh cuts the connection with the hills on the south-southeast. 
The heights by Shubert are singularly out of the vray at several places, 
and, in my opinion, especially here. The plain is considered one hundred 



292 



SIGHTS FROM MOUNT CARMEL. 



withstanding this moderate elevation, such is the rugged- 
ness of the ascent, and so many the necessary windings in 
some places, aided by six or seven steps cut in the rock, 
that it required about one hour to reach the summit. We 
have already referred to Mt. Tabor as the place of trans- 
figuration ; and here we found the remains of buildings and 
fortifications. To the westward is Mt. Carmel, in its whole 
range, and a building is plainly discernible at its seaward 
extremity. Nothing could be better placed for an exact 
determination of geographical positions than is the ridge 
of Mt. Tabor in the plain of Esdraelon ; and a list of the 
places seen from three positions on the mountain, which 
will be suggested by the names, I have given in a note. 1 

and eight feet above the sea ; and Mt. Tabor is probably not more than nine 
hundred feet above the plain, though the above is more probably correct. 

1 These places I have gathered from all the notices which I could obtain, 
only a few of which we were unable to see, — though probably they might 
be seen from positions not attained by ourselves. Commencing at Mt. 
Carmel, a point is seen west which appears like the extremity of the ridge, 
but which may be only the highest headland, somewhat southeast of its 
northernmost part. The plain shows several valleys reaching quite up to 
the range. The water-courses are plainly visible ; and one evidently connects 
with the Mukutta, the ancient Kishon, which runs parallel with Mt. Car- 
mel to the sea, two or three miles north of Haifa, which town we did not see. 
West is Yafa, (Japhia.) Next in order are the mountains round Nazareth, 
(which appear to be higher than Mt. Tabor,) Wely Ismail, the Mediterranean, 
the village Ain Mahil, Shajrah, Lubieh, the mountains and city of Safed, Mt. 
Hermon, Khan et Tujjar, which from the highest point of Mt. Tabor is a little 
north of north-northeast, and appears through the glass like a square wall with 
turrets adjoining the ruins of a village. A weekly fair is held here ; and I 
was told that some attend even from Sidon. Next appears Jebel Hattin and 
" the Horns/' Kefr Sabt, a small portion of the Lake of Tiberias, the Tell 
ef Faras, (a peak in Jebel Hish,) and the mountains beyond, with Jebel 
Hauran ; and west and northwest of the last are the districts of Gaulonitis, 
Trachonitis, and the Lejah, with the ancient Bashan. Then are seen several 
villages, — names not certain. Dr. Stuart says he saw Beisan "very dis- 
tinctly." (P. 436.) Ma'derah is three or four miles off and southeast ; and 
the celebrated castle of the Crusades is seen southeasterly on a hill eight or 



ROBBING THE HERMIT. 



293 



The valley of Jordan was very distinctly seen, and to 
some extent could be traced ; but even with our glass 
we could not see the river. In wandering around the 
top, we found an old hermit who had been here several 
years. He wore a frock-dress, a cap, and long white 
beard, spoke Italian, and lived in a part of a ruin under 
ground. Originally from Eussia, he had shortly after 
his arrival taken up his lodgings here, and was attacked 
by a party of Bedouins, who searched his premises for 
money and robbed him of every thing he had, scarcely 
sparing his beard, and leaving him to endure the cold 
without any thing to cover him but the leaves. I 
think he said that three days afterward the Arabs 
returned, bringing every thing back, laying them at his 
feet, and asking his blessing. They had been attacked 
by a disease soon after the robbery, and, attributing it 
to their treatment of the old hermit, they restored not 
only what they had taken, but also brought provisions, 
with which they continue to furnish him up to the pre- 
sent time, all esteeming him as a prophet. He supposed 
that there had been a fortification here, and led us to 
several immense walls, four feet thick, and some ruins, 
reaching to some distance beyond the wall, — probably a 

nine miles distant, and is the "Star" castle Belvoir, the Arab Kaukab el 
Hauwa, (star of the wind.) To the west of it is Kefrah, and farther off is Mt. 
Gilboa, with the village Mezar on its height. Nearer and in order are Tumrah, 
Kumieh, Endor, Ed Duey, and Nain ; and southwest is Lejjun, the Megiddo 
of Scripture ; and at the base, a little north of west, is Deburieh, the Dabe- 
rath of the Old Testament. (See Geographical Appendix.) Some fourteen 
or sixteen villages appear, the names of which we did not obtain. Dr. 
Wilson speaks of "Kefr Mesr on the southern bank of Mt. Tabor," and 
suggests that it or Murussus (Merassas?) was the ancient Meroz. (Judges 
v. 23.) His bearing is south-southeast half east. (Vol. ii. p. 107.) 



294 



RUINS ON TABOR. 



part of the wall of which Josephus speaks when he says 
that " he erected in forty days a wall around the sum- 
mit/' 1 which labor seems incredible, if we rightly under- 
stand his words. Perhaps his wall was quite feeble and 
different from any that we saw, for his description 
requires a wall of nearly three miles in length, the 
material of which was brought from below. 2 

In one place there was a cistern twenty-two feet deep 
to the top of the rubbish within, and nineteen feet in 
diameter, containing a small entering-chamber about 
nine feet in diameter. Not far off were vaults under 
what had apparently been a large church. Some of the 
stones are bevelled thus : — 




Over the mouth of the cistern was a reel used for draw- 
ing up the water. On the southern flank were some 
stones and a pointed arch, forming, it is supposed, a 
gateway, and called Bab el Hauwa, (gate of the wind.) 
On the whole, the ruins seem to be of various times and 
of very different buildings, none of which can be said 
to have extended very far ; and while we should prefer 
to look for a mountain for the transfiguration near Cse- 
sarea Philippi, thinking it probable that the Scriptures 
would allow us to look there, as we have before remarked, 
it nevertheless is true that nothing can be drawn either 



1 Wars of the Jews, iv. 1, 8. 

2 The words of the historian do not justify the idea that lie simply repaired 
them, as some assert. See Dr. Stuart, p. 435. 



FLOWERS ON THE ROAD. 



295 



from ruins or from history to prove that this was not the 
place. 1 

From Nazareth to the top of Mt. Tabor we have met 
with many plants and flowers : among them are the 
Anemone, the Cyclanum Europeum, but very similar 
to the Persicum. The former is represented in the 
plate of flowers, and is of various shades. On the flanks 

1 Dr. Stuart (p. 435) seems to think that the fact that an early city was 
placed there condemns the probability as resting upon mere " monkish tra- 
dition," and hopelessly banishes Mt. Tabor from the lists. But granting what 
he has very successfully attempted to prove, yet none of his authorities shows 
that any settlement at all extensive was ever established there. And even if 
it were true that an extensive settlement had been there and a city extended 
over the summit, — an extent which no history warrants us in supposing, — 
did not the Saviour carry all his disciples as far as (eug) Bethany, a settled 
town, and then, in view of Jerusalem and under the walls, was he not taken 
away from their sight ? So with the scene in the Garden of Gethsemane, and 
that witnessed by Elisha and his servant alone, though in view of a city. The 
arguments go to prove merely that there was a settlement at some time on 
Mt. Tabor, but nothing more. If we are to leave Mt. Tabor, we should cer- 
tainly not stop at the "horns of Hattin" with Dr. Stuart. If we need not go 
to Csesarea Philippi, Ave should prefer the tradition of the monks to that of 
Dr. Stuart, and are, with him, when speaking in reference to the tomb of the 
prophet Jonah, (p. 470,) "disposed to accept the tradition." Dr. Wilson, 
Stanley, and others seem to adopt Roland's objection to the idea that nar iSiav 
(Mark ix. 2) has reference to the mountain, and, without any further conside- 
ration, they suppose it refers simply to the disciples. In review of Reland's 
remark, we may be permitted to remark that an examination of the expres- 
sion shows that it occurs eighteen times in the New Testament. Fifteen of 
these are in the Gospels, and in every case, with one exception, it plainly 
qualifies the accusative after which it is placed ; and in the exception it is 
simply uncertain from the fact that there is no expressed noun in the sen- 
tence. In the passages before referred to, p. 253, it follows in both instances 
the mountain, and, as we think, in the precise sense of Herodotus, (iv. 18,) 
— viz., separated from others. If, as Reland supposes, it may refer to the 
disciples, why, in Mark ix. 2, is fiovovq added to mr' iSiav? Was it not 
sufficient to have /car' idiav (apart) without immediately adding fxovovg (alone) ? 
Therefore it is thought that, in accordance with all the other examples, the 
noun immediately preceding is qualified by mr idiav and the disciples by 
uovovg. This, in our opinion, does not prove Mt. Tabor to be the mountain 
of transfiguration ; but it serves to show that there are not sufficient grounds 
to decide with the positiveness displayed by some authors in this matter. 



296 



FLOWERS OF TABOR. 



of the hill are forests of the prickly oak and a smooth 
evergreen oak, with the ruffle-cup acorn and a leaf 
without thorns and undulating, (Quercus cegillops?) 1 
supposed from the leaves and fruit to be the ilex. A 
beautiful little Crocus vermis, of a rich orange, was 
blooming on the hill, and has kept its color perfectly; 
thistles, also, of numberless varieties, the prettiest of 
which, in its lilac color, is figured in the plate. It would 
require a little volume to represent and describe the 
flowers growing wild on the plains and hills around. In 
Nazareth there are olives, pomegranates, oranges, limes, 
aud lemons. A beautiful sample of the pomegranate- 
blossoms is also represented from some specimens 
brought from the country. 

It was more difficult to descend than we at first 
imagined ; but the singular shoes of the horses protect 
their feet much more effectually than those generally in 
use at home. Their form, which we have sketched, 




shields the foot from sharp points. The descent was 
effected in fifty minutes, and we were on our way to 
Jenin. Before leaving, we offered a small sum of money 
to the hermit, who had taken pains to attend us and ex- 
hibit some places which in his long and lonely walks he 

1 So Shubert, Reise, vol. iii. p. 172, quoted by Dr. Robinson, vol. iii. p. 210. 
but supposed by Dr. Durand, of Philadelphia, who examined the fruit and 
leaves brought home by myself, to be as above stated. The (Egillops loses 
its foliage in the fall (deciduous;) but the Quercus ilex is an evergreen, as 
these all seemed to be. 



PARTING WITH THE 



HERMIT. 



297 



had discovered; but he declined. "Why should I take 
money to tempt these wild men to rob me?" Our guide 
kissed his hand with much reverence, and we parted 
from him. In descending, my friend, who was walking 
and leading his horse, received a fall, hurting his hand 
considerably; but neither of our horses slipped. On 
the plain we had, in half an hour after descent, the fol- 
lowing view of the mountains, looking south a little 
west and not far from Iksal, — the probable Chesulloth. 1 




EN DOR AND NAIN, SOUTH OF TABOR, LOOKING SOUTH. 



There are eight mountain-tops distinctly visible before 
us. On the right is the little mosque on the top of 
Little Hermon or Jebel Duhy, and beneath is Nain, now 
called Nein. On the left, and elevated, is Endor, where 

1 This last place is described as containing excavated sepulchres and 
stune coffins. — Pococke, p. 450, 4to. 

19* 



298 



VALLEY OF JEZREEL. 



are caves excavated in the hills, one of which might 
have afforded protection to the unfortunate and for- 
saken king of Israel when he heard the last words of 
warning from Samuel. Both villages are small, contain- 
ing about thirty-five to forty huts apiece. The plain here 
seems elevated slightly above another plain, upon which 
we come after turning around the foot of Little Hermon, 
which has received its name from the supposition after 
the time of Constantine that it was the Hermon of Scrip- 
ture, based upon the fact that in Psalm lxxxix. 12 it is 
spoken of in connection with Mt. Tabor. 1 

We are now passing into the Valley of Jezreel, 
bounded north by the mountain-ridge Ed Duhy, at the 
summit of which is the mosque in the last view. The 
name of this valley in its Greek form of Esdraelon 2 has 
been applied to the whole of this the most extended plain 
in Palestine. Between Mt. Tabor and this range of 
mountains an offset runs toward the Jordan. Beyond 
Jebel Duhy the plain of Jezreel also runs toward the 
Jordan, but resembling more a wide valley than a plain. 
The soil here is brown. Occasionally basaltic and vol- 
canic fragments are picked up; and so little vegetation 
of any size appears at the distance of half an hour from 
Mt. Tabor that it was not possible to obtain a switch 
for my horse within the ride of half a mile. 3 

In five minutes after leaving the little village Fuleh 
we pass into Solam, the supposed Shunem. It appears 

1 See history in Biblical Researches, vol. iii. p. 172. 

2 Occurring in the Apocrypha, Judith i. 8. 

3 Thermometer at half-past twelve o'clock, in the sun, 70°; in the shade, at 
half-past seven a.m., 52°. 



NUMBERS IN BATTLE. 



299 



at a distance as though situated on the plain, though there 
is a slight rise of ground immediately around it. The 
entrance was excessively muddy from the late rain, and 
it is crowded with enormous hedges of the prickly-pear. 
It was near Shunem that the Philistines pitched their 
encampment before the terrible battle between them- 
selves and several hundred thousand of the warriors of 
Israel, 1 and in sight of Mt. Gilboa, the next ridge beyond 
Ed Duhy, and about three and a half miles off. No 
battle on this plain before that time or since was so 
terrible as this, nor was ever a battle fought on this 
plain between such multitudes. Saul gathered "all Is- 
rael;" and the enumeration made not long afterward 
(about five years 2 ) showed three hundred and thirty-nine 
thousand six hundred 3 thoroughly equipped for war, not- 
withstanding the previous slaughter. The Philistines 
must have outnumbered the Israelites: else why did 
Saul's "heart greatly tremble" 4 when from the heights 
of Gilboa he looked upon " the hosts of the Philistines" ? 
There can be little doubt that their number was at least 
four hundred thousand, increased greatly by the shep- 
herds expelled from Egypt by Amasis, as Sir Isaac 
Newton tells us, some of whom at that time fled into 
Phoenicia and others into Arabia Petra. 5 

1 1 Sam. xxviii. 4. 2 1 Chron. xi. 

3 Issachar's captains are given ; but the number is not included : else the 
number would be increased to about forty thousand more. 
i 1 Sam. xxviii. 5. 

5 This Amosis, corruptly called Amasis, (by Theophilus, Bishop of 
Antioch, lib. iii. ad Auto. p. 129, op. Justin Martyr, and probably thence 
written as above by Sir Isaac Newton,) was the new king of Egypt, who 
knew not Joseph, (Ex. i. 8,) because he had been dead fourteen years 



300 



SHUNEM. 



As Amnion, the descendant of Amosis, conquered 
Arabia, it is thought that these archers who aided the 
Philistines so signally in this battle were either Arabs 
who had fled from Amnion, or such as had before fled from 
Egypt to Arabia and had learned archery there from the 
natives, "who are allowed the best bowmen in the world. 11 ' 
And here it is specially to be noticed that very few 2 in 
Saul's army had knowledge of the use of the bow, while the 
Philistines added to the strength of superior numbers this 
remarkable advantage, — that with their arrows they 
could reach Saul's army long before the spears and 
swords of the latter could be made available. The 
fierceness of this battle and the terrible grandeur which 
was associated with the strussde of that dav will be better 
understood by a review of some historical facts than by 
simply picturing to the reader a fanciful sketch of the 
scene. Of these we will speak when at Jenin and after 
passing Mt. Gilboa. It was around Shunem and to the 
south of the village that the terrible hosts of the Phi- 
listines encamped. 3 

The rain now is approaching over the plain; and we 



before he became king of that part of Egypt where the Israelites dwelt, 
who had been greatly favored by the shepherd-kings ; but the new king, 
having driven the Phoenician shepherds out of Egypt, became severe to the 
Israelitish shepherds, whom the Egyptians hated, (Gen. xlvi. 32-34,) as they 
did all shepherds, because the shepherd-kings had tyrannized over them and 
the shepherds made no scruple of eating their sacred animals, sheep, cows, 
and goats. — Josephus, Antiquities, ii. 9, Jackson's Antiquities and Chro- 
nology, ii. 194, and some additional remarks in Chronological Inquiry into the 
Ancient History of England, by I. P. Cory, Lon., W. Pickering,' 1837, p. 60. 

1 Life of David, by the author of " Revelation Examined with Candour," 
2 vols., Lon., 1729, p. 257. 

2 Only about three thousand. See 1 Chron. xii. 2, 29. 

3 See other Scripture references in Geographical Appendix. 



BIRDS OF STRIA. 



301 



ride rapidly on, arriving, at ten minutes before two, at a 
well on the road, twenty-two feet deep, with ten feet of 
water, where we stop to lunch. Shortly after turning 
around the base of Little Hermon, we saw two foxes 
making their way slowly up the hill. They were of 
a grayish brown, but similar to our foxes in size 
and form. And here I may remark that I have 
noted fifteen varieties of birds belonging to the country, 
thus far, as follows : — 1. A black wild duck, in every 
respect like that of our own rivers, (Anas obscura.) 
2. A large bird precisely resembling white geese in their 
" cry," movement, and form. 3. The common brownish- 
back sparrow. 4. A lead-colored and black-spotted bird 
near Sarepta and Nazareth, and very frequently met 
with at Nazareth and to the south, — seldom in trees, 
more frequently on the ground; very nimble, and with 
an appearance of a dark and perfect crescent immediately 
under the neck. It is a very pretty bird, and, when 
lighting on the ground, acts precisely as if balancing 
itself, often waving its tail as if to recover its position. 
It is figured very naturally in the plate of birds as in 
the act of starting to fly. It is the most cheerful little 
bird we met with; and we regretted the necessity when 
at Nazareth of shooting one that we might preserve the 
feathers and obtain a better drawing. 1 

In the plate of birds, I have figured three birds 
as representatives of the three general divisions of 

1 This bird I suppose is a motacilla, and most like M. Yarrelli in its win- 
ter plumage figured in Eng. Cyclopedia, vol. iii., Nat. Hist. p. 911, — though 
I am inclined to think it is nowhere properly figured, and may be a new 
variety. 



302 



BIRDS OF SYRIA. 



Palestine; and they are exactly one-half the natural 
size. In the upper bird we have a good repre- 
sentative of the Beirut and Lebanon goldfinch. 1 The 
middle bird is the Carpodacus Sinaiaticus, a drawing 
of which I obtained from the Academy of Natural 
Sciences, taken from the natural object. It is properly 
an Arabian bird, and was first seen at Mount Sinai: 
hence its name. But, from the report of travellers, it is 
perhaps found about Hebron and the Dead Sea, and it 
is probably the red bird so called by some, though not 
w T hat is commonly understood by that name. The lower 
bird has been already described. The 5th, a larger bird 
than No. 4, with black wings tipped with white and rather 
longer than usual with such birds, on the whole resem- 
bling the king-fisher. 6. The common partridge. 7. The 
sea-gull, seen on the plains, and its exact counterpart 
around and over the Sea of Tiberias. 8. A bird about 



1 This was drawn from the living bird and is a good representation. Two 
were brought from Syria this spring (1858) by Miss S.B.M.,of Philadelphia, 
to whose accomplishments and indefatigable perseverance I am greatly in- 
debted for many botanical specimens she collected, and which I have, with 
her permission, added to my list. These birds seemed to sicken soon 
after arrival ; and one has died. The color of the wing and the spots are as 
good as the size of the figure would permit, the artist having with his drawing 
a wing which was surreptitiously taken from the tomb of the dead bird, 
over which a charming little friend, Clara M , had written all its his- 
tory, in the sorrowing sincerity of a little child's heart: — 

POOR LITTLE BIRD 
HAD COME 
TO THAT FAR LAND 
TO DIE. 

I am informed that they are caught as other birds are, — by a viscid fluid 
from what is called the "bird-lime berry/' (corda mixa,) which, when put on 
the limb of a tree, is so tenacious that birds cannot withdraw their feet when 
once they have perched on the limb. 



JEZREEL. 



303 



the size of the " wood-robin," with the same " action/' 
but of the color of the ordinary sparrow, or of a grayish 
brown, having one-fourth of the under-feathers a " sub- 
dued yellow," but distinctly yellow. 9. The common 
pigeon, seen at Solam to-day. 10. The swallow, at 
Sarepta. 11. The vulture appearing in the distance, pre- 
cisely like the buzzard of the Southern States, with the 
exception of a slight difference near the head. 12. Two 
sizes of the hawk. 14. At Tiberias, a bird resembling 
the mocking-bird in every respect. The song we did 
not hear. The 15th, the variety of the goldfinch spoken 
of before. The foxes our guide called by a name the 
sound of which was essenes. While we were resting, 
two little girls came to draw up water from the well 
with a cord and leathern bucket attached. One, about 
ten years of age, carried an earthen vessel on her head, 
the weight with the water being nearly twenty-five 
pounds; and yet she balanced it with no apparent 
difficulty. The water of the well was warm, but agree- 
able. At twenty minutes after two, we left, and, ascend- 
ing, passed some ruins, and then arrived at Zerin, the 
ancient Jezreel, on a northern elevated limit of a part of 
a plain spreading out still farther beyond. It is a small 
place ; but from a crumbling tower, which, with some 
hazard, any one might ascend, a very extensive view is 
obtained, extending on the right, as we look north, 
quite to the Jordan, down the broad Valley of Jezreel 
to Beisan, which was said to be " by Zartanah, beneath 
J ezreel," 1 and which expression helps to locate Zartanah ; 



1 1 Kings iv. 12. 



/ 



304 RESTORING A SPRING. 

for Beisan, the ancient Beth-shean, is known as the 
Scythopolis of the times of the early Church, and its 
acropolis is seen from the old tower in Zerin. Beisan on 
the east is said to be equally distant from Zerin with 
Lejjun or Megiddo, which is near Carmel, on the west. 1 
J udging from its position, its fountains, and the extensive 
view reaching from Carmel to beyond Jordan, and from 
its location in a plain of such beauty, we are led to 
think that it very probably became a great and im- 
portant city. The fountains are from ten to twenty 
minutes' walk east of the village. The one is Ain Meiyiteh, 
or " the dead fountain," so called from having once failed, 
and the other is Ain Jalud, fountain of Goliah. The 
former was restored through the enterprise of one Husein, 
a wealthy governor and of good family, who employed 
two or three hundred yoke of oxen in cultivating this 
plain. The restoration was effected by digging down till 
the water rose and then partly filling in with pebbles. 2 

Passing on through the rain, we see before us Mt. Gilboa 
toward the left, with the little village of El Mezar 3 on 
its highest summit, and before us a little village, Jelameh. 
We have just passed a corn-field (maize) with stalks only 
averaging one inch in thickness, and indicating a very 
poor yield; but the quality of the crop is evidently due 
to the manner of treating the soil, as there is not the least 
indication of returning to it any thing in any shape in re- 
turn for what has been taken from it. We have gathered 

1 Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 1G5. 2 Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 167. 

3 1 give the name as in the German map of Kiepert, accompanying Dr. 
Robinson's last edition, — though my guide — a native of Nazareth — called 
it El Mizar. 



J E N 1 1ST AND ITS ACCOMMODATIONS. 305 



some cotton-pods with a staple which under the micro- 
scope compares favorably with the sea-island cotton from 
near Charleston, S.C., though the pods are much smaller 
and range only from seven-eighths to nine-eighths of an 
inch in diameter when not quite fully opened. 1 This in- 
dicates an excellence in the seed, and shows the deficiency 
to be in culture or soil. 2 Though the rain is falling, no part 
of the plain appears to us more magnificent than that on 
which we are riding. The lofty top of Gilboa, somewhat 
broken, stretches onward to the Jordan, with Zerin very 
near its base. We gallop on ; and Jenin, with its single 
minaret, soon appears. At half-past four we enter the 
place, almost, if not quite, convinced that no mud-hole 
into which our travels have taken us was darker and 
deeper than this; and we are not surprised when we 
hear from Hanna — who had ridden on an hour ahead — 
that it is almost entirely inhabited by Moslems, the de- 
spisers of the Nazarenes, the epithet which is insultingly 

1 1 am indebted to my young friend Wm. J. Potts, son of Robert B. Potts, 
Esq., of Camden, N. J., who with a fine microscope has paid some attention 
to the comparative physiology of the Southern and that Syrian cotton which 
was gathered at this time. The fibre is nearly the same. There is a diffe- 
rence of about three or four-thousandths of an inch in favor of the fineness of 
the Southern cotton, (Gossypium Barbadense,) and, at the same time, a 
superior felting-surface in the Syrian fibre, (Gossypium Herbaceum?) The 
pods have three leaves in the Syrian, to four in the Southern. Gossypium is 
from the Arabic, signifying "soft." The G. Herbaceum is a native of Syria, 
the G. Barbadense of Barbadoes. Fourteen species of cotton have been 
described by botanical authors, but many are supposed to be only varieties. 
See Botany of Southern States, by Prof. John Darby, A.M., New York, 185G. 

2 The author after this carried seed to America and cultivated it, which, 
during the first season after its importation, showed an improvement upon 
its appearance on its native soil of sixty or seventy per cent. ; and from this 
and experiments made by others in England at Worksop, (accounts of 
which have been published,) it is probable that the soil must have formerly 
been wonderfully superior to that which we find at present. 

20 



306 



muezzin's cry. 



given to Christians by the Moslems. As we left our tent at 
Safed, we are compelled to lodge in a little room dirty in 
appearance and in fact, but the best we could find. This 
evening we hear the muezzin cry, from a little balcony of 
the minaret, " There is one God, and Mohammed is his 
prophet ! Come to prayer." 1 We soon finished the day's 
duties and retired to rest, hoping that the fagots over- 
head, with their superincumbent clay, will not let in the 
rain till morning ; and thus, with thanks heartily rendered 
for preservation during a past week, its last day was closed. 

We spent the Sabbath at J enin. The Moslem mechan- 
ics are mending their work and shoeing horses before our 
door the greater part of the day. Our rest, on this the 
southern limit of the great plain, affords us an oppor- 
tunity to review much of the Scripture history, and also 
to study the interesting points and the lessons suggested 
by the very striking scenes which have transpired in this 
vicinity. From Iksal to Jenin is perhaps thirteen miles, 
judging from the time consumed in passing between them. 
Perhaps it may be more, but it is not less; and on that 
line, nearly due north and south, there is nearly an un- 
interrupted plain. It reaches west to the Carmel ridge, 
which, running from Jenin in a northwest course, 
forms the hypothenuse of a triangle with Iksal at the 
right angle. This much can be seen distinctly as a 
plain ; and beyond this triangle, farther west, there may 
be plain-land which we cannot see. To the east are two 
valley-plains running off to the Jordan, the one between 



1 Some include "the world his bed/' as we were told, but we did not 
hear it. 



PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 



807 



that ridge which is east of Jenin and the ridge of Gil- 
boa, just north of it, the other farther north, between 
Gilboa and Little Hermon ridges. Then there is a 
tract — which might be called a comparative plain — 
between the latter and Mount Tabor, still to the north, 
and with the Wady el Bireh running down to the Jordan. 
Comparing observations from various positions, the 
extent of the level part of the plain visible from this 
place along the base of Mt. Carmel may be from fifteen 
to sixteen miles. Beyond that, from all accounts, 
it is arable almost to Haifa, at the base of the ex- 
tremity of Mt. Carmel. But it was too far to examine 
even from Mt. Tabor. These calculations will give us 
at the lowest estimate about one hundred square miles 
of level or gently-undulating soil fit for cultivation, 
and which can be seen from one position. It would 
not be surprising if, by actual survey, three times 




EASTERN LIMIT OF ESDRAELON, LOOKING NORTH. 



308 



Gideon's victory. 



that amount were found to be below the correct esti- 
mate. Walking beyond Jenin a few hundred yards to 
the east, from a hill belonging to the ridges of Samaria 
on the south, we have before us some interesting geo- 
graphical features on the north, which enable us to 
enjoy and appreciate the history of the past. Upon 
this great plain spreading out before us were once 
driven the chariots of iron that belonged to the cities 
of Jezreei and Beth-shean. 1 These chariots were 
used principally up and down the Valley of Jezreei, 
which appears to have been called " the outgoing" 
of Mt. Gilboa. This valley is just beyond the little 
town of El Mizar, on a cragged height of Gilboa on 
our right. Here Gideon met the assembled crowd of 
Midianites, of the Amalekites, and of those wild Arabs 
of the East, the Ishmaelites, with their camels. With 
his little company of three hundred, he descended those 
heights in the night upon one hundred and thirty-five 
thousand 2 in the Valley of Jezreei, and set them one 
against the other, driving them doAvn the valley to Beth- 
shean, ten miles east of Gilboa, and across the river to 
Succoth, 3 — which seems to mark his course as down the 
Jordan to the ruins of Sakut, about fifteen miles south- 
east of our position. As the camels' ornaments are said to 

1 Joshua xvii. 

2 One hundred and twenty thousand were slain, and fifteen thousand 
escaped: hence it may be supposed there were one hundred and thirty-five 
thousand at least. See Judges viii. 10. 

3 In the map I have put Succoth at the ruins of Sakut, the only place of 
the name known, in accordance with Dr. Robinson's suggestion. (See last 
edition.) At the same time, it is probable that the Succoth of Jacob was 
beyond Jordan, and perhaps near these relics of the more modern Succoth. 
See Judges viii. 4, 5. 



SAUL CONSULTS THE WITCH. 



309 



be " like little moons," 1 perhaps to this people may be 
traced the first use of the crescent, as it appears to have 
been an ornament among the Ishmaeiites taken by 
Gideon : so that, though the crescent found at Byzantium 
was adopted by the Turks, 2 its origin might have been 
found in Arabia among those tribes long before the taking 
of Byzantium. Two hundred years after Gideon's time 
a most singular contrast of history is presented in that 
terrific battle referred to as we passed Sol am. Saul, 
from the heights of Gilboa, beheld the hosts of the Philis- 
tines; and, despairing of success in his attempts to obtain 
an answer from God through the prophets, he was driven 
to try a hazardous experiment. David he had persecuted 
till he had fled into the land of the Philistines, taking 
Abiathar the priest with him. Hence Saul was forsaken 
by priest, by ephod, the mysterious oracle "Urim," and 
by God. Samuel, whose mantle he had rent at the 
last interview he had with the prophet, 3 was dead. 
What could he do? In an instant the conviction of 
his utter desolation has seized him without any pre- 
vious apprehension. Inquiring for a witch, he finds 
some one ready to direct him. Possibly he com- 
municates his desire to the servants, any one of whom, 
from various motives, might communicate the fact to 
spies in the camp. But he is reckless; and with two 
friends he crosses the Valley of Jezreel and over Jebel 



1 See Hebrew of Judges viii. 21, — called in the English "ornaments that 
were on their camels' necks." 

2 See Warburton's " Crescent and the Cross." 
3 1 Samuel xv. 27-35. 



310 



THE WITCH'S TERROR. 



ed Duliy to Endor, — which lies only a little beyond 
the ledge, perhaps in all not more than two and a half 
hours' travel from his camp. The way is as even as 
it could be on high hills ; and there are passes 
which make it unnecessary to cross the heights. 
He finds the Pythoness near her cave, 1 out of which 
these witches were accustomed to speak. Saul, dis- 
guised, tells her his desires and swears she shall not 
be injured. But, before she has time to commence 
the usual incantations, she sees a horrific sight and 
cries out with terror. The original is, " and the woman 
saw Samuel and shrieked aloud." 2 Samuel anticipated 
her. It was Saul bringing Samuel up, not the witch, 
who saw immediately that she was deceived ; and 
hence her cry, " Thou art Saul !" " Saul knew that it 
was Samuel himself." 3 It was no illusion. There he 
was, just the same as when three years since he warned 
him, bearing the same prophetic mantle upon him 
which at that time Saul had actually torn, 4 and about 
to repeat the same sad and awful prediction. With 
a terrible reiteration of his last solemn warning, (in 
which he uses the same form of words which he 
used when he warned the w r retched king against 
divination and disobedience in reference to the Amale- 
kites,) he comes to tell Saul that the threatening 



1 Isaiah xxix. 3. 

2 There is no "when" in the original. 

3 " Himself" in the original: not seen in the English translation. 

4 1 Samuel xv. 27. This was the most remarkable, inasmuch as the 
mantle was not a prophetic garb. 



saul's despair. 



311 



which he supposed God had forgotten was now to be 
executed; that to-morrow the prophecy should be ful- 
filled that he should perish, and that " the camp of Israel" 
itself should be taken. 1 I cannot conceive of more fear- 
fully-eloquent language than that used on that midnight 
occasion, when all the circumstances of the history are 
brought up to the reader. First the long, weary hours 
during which Saul called in vain at a forsaken altar and 
upon a neglected God; then the suspense and awful fore- 
boding which the sudden desolation of heart occasioned, 
with the wildness of terror that suggested that mad night- 
errand to Endor; then the fearful sight of the dead Samuel 
in his prophetic mantle, — the very one that had covered 
him when he uttered that last fearful prophecy three years 
before; then the unalleviated horror of the reiterated 
sentence of death he had heard at the last interview, some 
of the former words being used at this time, — first, against 
divination, secondly, against disobedience. As to the 
guilt of the first sin, the witch herself was a present wit- 
ness against him; and this sin had now brought the 
penalty of the sword upon him. The last ray of hope 
was quenched in eternal darkness. Saul's desolation was 
now complete, for he was surrounded by the horrors of 
the dimly-lighted cavern, his heart crushed beneath the 
weight of guilt and despair, with the deep shame of his 
exposure to his servants, and the wild fear of the coming 
battle. That night he returned ; and the next day the 
Philistines — who very probably had got the news of his 

1 1 Samuel xxviii. 19. rOHD' "the camp" of Israel, the most sacred 
and important part of the army. 



312 



saul's death. 



absence and his dismay — seized the advantage of both 
and attacked him in his very camp, as Samuel had fore- 
told; and Saul perished, ignominiously flying, and casting 
his shield from him that he might the more easily es- 
cape. The last act was considered a soldier's bitterest 
disgrace. Down the sides of Gilboa and into the Valley 
of Jezreel, followed by his sons, he rushed; but, before 
leaving the vicinity of the mountain, he was pierced by 
the arrows of the archers, against whom he was not 
prepared, and finally committed suicide, — probably upon 
the very sword with which two years before he had slain 
the priests of the Lord. 1 

No passage of Scripture is to me more replete with 
subject for thought than this, and no poetry more 
elegant and in the original more beautiful in its rhythm, 

1 1 Sam. xxii. 18. Does Mr. Bonar (Land of Promise, p. 391) mean to 
be understood that the Amalekite slew Saul? His words are, " he fell 
down, writhing in agony, till the Amalekite came up and finished the work 
of death." (2 Sam. i. 10.) How, then, (most respectfully,) does he reconcile 
the statement of the text? (1 Sam. xxxi. 4, 5.) Has he not given cre- 
dence to the story of the Amalekite who had run off with the crown, after 
the death of Saul, to David, expecting a reward in gold for his pretended 
act of slaying Saul, which David rewarded by his sword. (2 Sam. i. 15.) Saul 
committed suicide, lest "these uncircumcised come and thrust me through." 
Would Saul have helped the matter by asking an uncircumcised Amalekite 
to slay him? The fact is that the historian is correct, and this renegade 
Amalekite came to David, like a " second Sinon," with a falsehood, sup- 
posing that David would be glad to hear of his enemy's death and would 
reward him. (See a very elaborate proof in Hist. Life of David, vol. i. pp. 
240-260, Lon., 1759.) There is an established tradition of the Jews that 
this armor-bearer was Doeg, the murderer of the priests spoken of above. 
This tradition may be correct: if so, (and there is no reason to disbelieve it,) 
they both perished as above supposed. For Saul took D^nrrnK' sword, 

riot "a sword," as in the English translation, but the very sword about 

which he was speaking, — and fell upon it, and the armor-bearer saw him 
"dead." 1 Sam. xxxi. 4, 5. 



HEBREW POETRY. 



313 



in its delicate allusions, and in its depth of sorrow, 
than David's lamentation on the death of Jonathan, 
who died first on the heights, and of Saul, who died 
after he had thrown away his shield :— 

I. 

The beauty of Israel 

On the high places pierced, — 

How are the mighty ones fallen! 

In Gath tell it not, nor in Askelon publish it ! 

Lest the Philistines' daughters rejoice; 

Lest the daughters of the uncircumcised triumph. 

II. 

mountains of Gilboa, 

No dew and no rain be upon you, 

Nor wide waving fields as the offerings, 

Where the shield of the mighty was cast away vilely, — 

Saul's shield: was he with oil not anointed? 1 

III. 

From the blood of the slain, 

From the heart of the mighty, 

The arrow of Jonathan 

Ne'er bloodless returned : 

Saul's sword returned never empty. 

The sixth and last stanza is exceedingly beautiful; and 
the Hebrew rhythm might in part be appreciated even 
by an English reader, who would perceive some similarity 
in its rhythm to that which I have attempted in the trans- 
lation of the first lines of the first stanza above. Giving 
a heavy accent where it is marked, the reader will be 
enabled to get some idea of the Hebrew measure : — 

Yehonathan ill Alas! Jonathan, 

Bam-otheeka halal On thy high places slain. 

Tzar le 'ale ha My grief is for thee, 

Ahee Yehonathan Jonathan my brother. 

Na'a meta ly meoth. A great pleasure hast thou been to me. 

1 These are all the words in the Hebrew; and this translation gives the 
sense of the English version. 

20* 



314 ANCIENT ARCHERS. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

ANCIENT ARCHERS — ROUTE TO SAMARIA AND TO SYCHAR. 

In connection with the history of this battle, an inte- 
resting notice occurs in reference to the introduction of 
archery into Judea, which invites us to pause for a 
short time. We can scarcely comprehend the nature 
of that defeat without a knowledge of the strength and 
accuracy of the bowmen. Though Saul's countrymen 
were the only ones who seemed to understand the use 
of the bow, yet Saul had neglected to cultivate an art 
which David, immediately after Saul's death, introduced 
into Israel. 1 

The first mention of archery is in Gen. xxi. 20, where 
it is stated, in reference to Ishmael, the ancestor of some 
of these bowmen in the Philistines' army, that he "grew 
and dwelt in the wilderness and became an archer." A 
" bow-shot" was at an early period the measure of distance, 
as we see in this chapter, v. 26, — a bow-shot being "a good 
way off." An early reference is also made in Homer's Iliad 
to the Locrians in the Grecian army as specially skilful 

" From far the flying shaft to wing, 
Or whirl the sounding pebble from the sling 



x 2 Sam. i. 18. 



ANSWER OF THE KING OF ETHIOPIA. 315 



showing a coincidence of accomplishments with the 
Benjamites similarly described. 1 Cyaxares, King of the 
Medes, and great-grandfather to Cyrus, engaged some 
Scythian archers to teach his son the use of the bow. 
This nation had a law that their children should learn 
three things particularly from the age of five to twenty- 
six, — viz., "to ride a horse well, to shoot well, and not 
to tell a lie;" and Xenophon shows that from a child 
Cyrus was brought up to archery. Now, we can give 
our readers an idea of the character of the bowmen of 
the past by the following incident from Herodotus, who 
says that when Cambyses had conquered Egypt and had 
thought of invading Ethiopia he sent some spies before 
him, who, under pretence of carrying presents to the 
king, might privately inquire into the strength and 
condition of the kingdom. When they had arrived and 
had made their presents, the King of Ethiopia said to 
them, "It is not from any consideration of my friend- 
ship that the King of Persia sent you to me with these 
presents; neither have you spoken the truth, but are 
come into my kingdom as spies. If Cambyses were an 
honest man, he would desire no more than his own, and 
not endeavor to reduce a people under servitude who 
have never done him any injury. However, give him 
this bow from me, and let him know that the King of 
Ethiopia advises the King of Persia to make war against 
the Ethiopians when the Persians shall be able thus 
easily to draw so strong a bow, and in the mean while 
to thank the gods that they never inspired the 



1 1 Chron. xii. 2. 



316 



LONG SHOTS. 



Ethiopians with a desire of extending their dominions 
beyond their own country." Saying this, he unbent the 
bow and delivered it to the ambassador. 

We can imagine what the range of the arrow in times 
past must have been from the evident strength of the bow 
described in this short history, and also by facts recorded 
of later times. The greatest range which the modern 
English archers can accomplish is from three to four 
hundred yards. The Turkish ambassador, when in 
England in 1795, sent an arrow upwards of four hundred 
and eighty yards, in the presence of several members of 
the Toxophilite Society. His bow was made of horn, 
and was in 1845 in the possession of the Society, and 
may be at the present day. 1 This is considered a very 
long shot ; yet there are two or three shots on record as 
occurring since archery has been merely a pastime 
which have exceeded it by twenty or thirty j^ards. 
Some time after the introduction of fire-arms the bow 
was used in battle as preferable, and actually did more 
damage. 2 From Henry II. to Richard I. there are 
few or no notices of archery; but the latter per- 
formed great exploits in the Holy Land, particularly 
(as Sir John Smith observes) " by overthrowing, princi- 
pally by the remarkable efforts of his archers, the brave 
Saladin and his whole army." Gibbon notices the sin- 

1 My authority is E. Ilargrave, in his -work on Archery, published at 
York, England, 1845, in the library of my excellent friend and classmate 
Horatio G. Jones, Esq., of the Philadelphia Bar, to whom I am indebted for 
the use of several ancient and valuable records. 

2 See a curious comparison between fire-arms and bow in proof of above, 
Harl. Miscel., vol. ii., quoted p. 18 Archery, &c. 



LATIMER OX SHOOT I XG. 



317 



gular dread with which the English archers filled their 
enemies in the Crusades, and informs us that at one 
time Richard, with seventeen knights and three hun- 
dred archers, sustained the charge of the whole Turkish 
and Saracen army. The monarch, however, when 
besieging the castle of Chaluze, (France.) approached 
too near the castle and was killed by an arrow from a 
cross-bow. on the 8th of March. 1199. In the time of 
Henry VIII. statutes were passed requiring the practice 
of archery; and it seems that the pulpit itself was en- 
listed in its behalf, as appears from the following 
extract from a sermon by the celebrated Bishop Lati- 
mer, a.d. 1530 : — 

" Ojc art of sjutpngc ijatfj ton in times past muci) 
esteemed in tf)ts realme: tt is a ggft of <5oti tfjat Jje fjati) 
gnuen us to exceil all otijrr nations tottfjal. £t f»atf> ten 
(Jlctite instrumente, tofjerefig Ijc jjatf) ggben us mange 
bictortcs agannestc our enemies. . . . Het a proclimacion 
go furdj charging tje justice of peace tijat tjep. see suri) actes 
anti statutes kept as are matie for tips purpose/ 11 

Doubtless the skill of the archers in the time of Saul 
was consummate. All the accounts of those times 
prove it; and herein may be found the cause for that 
dismay which seems so suddenly to have seized Saul's 
army on the clay of that fatal battle. It also exhibits 
the wisdom of the course adopted by David of intro- 
ducing archery into Judah immediately after the battle. 

Our party was here increased by the addition of a Scotch 



1 This and more is in Hargrave's Relics of Archery, p. 33. referred to 
in a previous note. 



318 



NEW VARIETY OF BIRDS. 



gentleman of the Madras Presidency and his intelligent 
guide. One of my friends has been up since half-past 
one o'clock, trying to reduce the number of the "plagues," 
more to be feared by travellers than the Bedouins, as 
the latter are frightened at pistol and bullet, which the 
former can dodge. 1 

We leave Jenin at twenty-five minutes before seven 
o'clock, and pass into a valley on a southern course. Be- 
hind us the plain appears like a vast sea, as the morning 
mists lie low and level. Now a bird of the form and size 
of a snipe, but with a shorter bill, is seen near a rain-pool, 
with dark-brown wings and a white breast. The hills on 
either side are of equal height and with little vegetation, 
save the low thorn-bush so prevalent in Syria. Five 
varieties we have noticed particularly, but there are great 
numbers which cannot be even mentioned at present. 
The description of the thorns of this land and its thistles 
alone would fill a volume. At five minutes before seven 
o'clock we pass a strong wall running obliquely across 
the valley, several feet high and about five and a half 
feet thick ; and no ruins are seen in connection with it. 
It seems as though it had been a barrier to the waters 
which at some time have flowed along the course, now 
entirely dry. A little farther, and we meet with the seven- 
teenth variety of birds in one of the size of a half-grown 
chicken, with dark wings and back, breast light-colored, 
with a dark crescent under the neck and a little plume or 
top-knot on the head. When it flew, the half of the wing 
next the body was of a brighter color than the remaining 



1 Thermometer 44° for several hours before 6 a.m. 



VIEW OF MOUNTAINS OF JEZ REEL. 



319 



half. Next appears, after an ascent, a cotton-field of 
six or seven acres ; but the cotton-pods are small, while 
the cotton is white and fine. On some fields we have seen 
a nankin-colored cotton. The soil is dark and brown, 
but free from volcanic fragments. At a quarter-past 
seven o'clock the view of the country passed is truly pano- 
ramic and includes many places of historic interest. More 
than forty miles distant is the snow-crownecl summit of 
Mt. Hermon. About fifteen miles off is the triple-topped 
ridge of Little Hermon, stretching away toward the left 
of the apparent position of Mt. Hermon, with the little 
mosque on its western summit, beneath which on the 
plain is Solam, at the opening of the plain of Jezreel. 
But the town and Valley of Jezreel are behind the spur 
and ridge of Gilboa, the mountain-ridge nearer, and which 
has the little village Mizar on its top. Another long ridge, 
forming a valley between itself and Gilboa, directs our 
vision to a part of the range of mountains of the district 
of Samaria on which we are standing. This forms the 
view we have given on page 307. We now ride on rapidly, 
passing large numbers of olive-trees extending around a 
village, Kubatiyeh by name, which is said to be noted 
for the manufacture of olive-oil. At nine o'clock we 
come to a fine plain stretching on for two miles or more, 
with soil so soft that our horses sink above the fetlocks 
at almost every step. Beyond a finely-built village, 
apparently once fortified, built on the bluff of a hill, and 
named Jeba, 1 we met women and girls carrying bundles 

1 Perhaps an ancient Geba, or Gibeah, as the word signifies a hill or high 
place, — more definitely, the head or top of a high place. 



320 PICTURESQUE VIEW OF DISTANT CAMELS. 



of brushwood on their heads; and, though very dirty in 
their clothing, they wore ornaments, on their arms and 
the string of piastres around their foreheads. Here we 
saw for the first time in Palestine the old pole-sweep at 
ft cistern, with stones fastened at one end to balance 
the bucket at the other, just as we have seen so fre- 
quently in the country at home. At lunch to-day we 
had the addition of fine radishes taken from a garden on 
the road. The landscape-view of the valley and plain is 
charming, and a distant glimpse of the Mediterranean is 
very refreshing after the long rides over nothing but moun- 
tains and plains. We now descend the ridge from which 
we saw the Mediterranean, and cross a water-course, at 
the head of which there is a distant view of camels on a 
high cliff, appearing as in the sketch, between the moun- 



tains very high above us. Their forms against the blue 
sky are quite picturesque, as they move slowly onward. 1 

1 The statistical record from Jenin (the Ginsea of Josephus) is as follows : 




AMMONITES. 



321 



After this the peculiar stone of Malta, (the cream-colored 
soft limestone,) very similar to the carbonate of lime 
and magnesia found in other places, appears every- 
where. An ammonite of this appearance 1 




— Twenty-five minutes before seven o'clock, leave. Jenin, travelling regu- 
larly south. Fifteen minutes after seven, the view above described. Half- 
past seven, Mt. Hermon still seen. At eight, come to village (in map after 
Dr. Smith) Kubatiyeh, but a guide called it Abarkia, or Abarkieh; olive- 
groves. At five* minutes after nine, plain two miles long. Half-past nine, 
see them sowing wheat, and after three miles come to Sanur, (on the map,) 
— guide said Tanur, — a thickly-settled village on a hill. At five minutes 
before ten, a large well on the left, — water within seven feet of the srfuace, 
about eight feet across, well stoned, but apparently deserted. Twenty-five 
minutes after ten, Jeba: here the road leads off to Nablous. We took the 
right at twenty-five minutes before eleven. At eighteen minutes before 
eleven, lunch at Fendekumieh, (of the map,) pronounced there Funda- 
kaumieh. At twenty minutes after eleven, start westerly ; and thirty 
minutes after ascend a ledge and gain a view of the Mediterranean, with 
village Esseyeh in front. Sun under cloud, and thermometer 67° ; in defile, 
a few minutes after, 76°. At five minutes after twelve, soil white. 

1 Casts are seen frequently. The specimen above represented is not a 
cast, but a shell, and appears to be A. Syriacus with a Nerinea Syriaca tur- 
reted shell on the side, and a Natica Syr. or Turritella Syr. on the end. 

21 



322 



ASCENT OF HILL OF SAMARIA. 



is found among the broken fragments, and casts of the 
following, which are representations of the fossil shell. 1 



Passing down a valley toward the Hill of Samaria, 
we see two additional varieties of birds. One seems 
entirely alone, and of the linnet kind and size, but with 
a black head, a white band around its neck, a russet or 
brown breast, and dark back ; the other, of the size of 
the sparrow, of a dark-brown color, forming the shade 
of the entire bird, which has a little top-knot. This is 
the nineteenth variety we have noted. 

As we ride to the base of the hill, flints and flinty 
rocks again appear, and we commence the ascent on 
horseback. Pottery and architectural fragments make 
their appearance ; and, when near the summit, we pass 
around by the side of shafts ten to twelve feet high, 
without any capitals, apparently of the stone just de- 
scribed, of which the hill seems to be composed. Sixty 
or seventy are almost perfect among one hundred and 
ten which we counted. Ascending still higher and 
farther east, fifteen or sixteen are standing as if they 
once formed part of a temple; and not far off, before 

1 Venus Syriaca, — probably from the eocene. This is also a shell, and 
nut a cast. 




SINGULAR COLONNADE. 



323 



reaching the temple, is a base or plinth closely 
resembling the one seen at Sarepta, both in moulding 
and size. My friend suggests with plausibility that it 
formed an altar, though it is but two feet in height. 
We afterward met with several other bases ; but with no 
capitals. These colonnades seem to be similar to those 
at Baalbek and Palmyra; but the columns appear as 
if they had been removed from some building and placed 
up here. Several are of a size and shape so different 
from others immediately adjoining as to forbid the idea 
that they were placed here originally in this form. 
Descending slightly on the east end of this hill, we 
came to a ruined apsis of an early church of the follow- 
ing appearance : — 




The impost to the arch, which runs off to the right, 
was singular; but the ruins around it were in such a 
position that we could not immediately remove them to 
examine it. There was probably an arched recess 
commencing at that place, instead of another apsis, as 



324 



TOMB OF ST. JOHN". 



at Tyre. 1 The prickly-pear grows thickly amid 
the ruins; and the walls are falling to pieces, though 
they are in places seven feet six inches or nearly eight 
feet thick. This church is reported to contain the 
burial-place of St. John the Baptist, and a little tomb 
within the walls is shown as his. The tradition can 
scarcely be traced farther back than the time of Jerome ; 
and, if true, and not understood as in contradiction to 
Josephus, 2 then his disciples brought his body from the 
castle of Machaerus, on the east of the Dead Sea, (where 
he was beheaded, according to Josephus,) to this dis- 
tant place. There are crosses — evidently of the Order 
of St. John— carved on marble tablets, but of a later date 
than that of the erection of the church. We left the 
spot, which is near the modern Sebaste, (Samaria,) and, 
riding through barking dogs, much mud, and begging 
Arabs, we left the hill at twenty minutes after one 
o'clock, and in forty minutes pass under some arches, 
just after taking the view on the following page of the 
whole scene we had left. The observer, looking due 
north, has on the right the ruins spoken of, and half- 
way up, on the left, the colonnade. 

The columns, and perhaps all the remains, are those 
of the buildings which Herod erected with great mag- 
nificence and called Sebaste, the Greek for the Latin 

1 The three apses are characteristic of the early Byzantine architecture, 
which Eusebius amply describes, though there are few remains. The pen- 
dants in the apsis in this case do not appear plain enough to aid any con- 
jecture as to style. The building shows decided Byzantine traits com- 
mingled with a later style. 

2 Antiq. xviii. 5, 2. 



EARLY ASSOCIATIONS. 



325 



title Augusta. 1 In the earliest times this was the site of 
the city of Omri, King of Israel, who bought the whole 
of this fruitful hill from Shemer for about three thousand 
five hundred dollars, 2 and built a city, (925 B.C.,) naming 
it, after Shemer, Samaria. It became the capital of the 
kingdom of the ten tribes and a city associated with 
many historical facts. The names of Ahab, son of Omri, 
of Jezebel the Zidonian, of Elijah and Elisha the 
prophets, appear in connection with it. Here was the 
house and " altar" of Baal ; here his grove. Around this 
hill the bold Benhadad, King of Syria, and his thirty- 
two companions gathered with their chariots and were 
routed. Here Jehu "served Baal much," — so much 




VIEW OF SAMARIA, LOOKING NORTH. 



1 Joseph. Antiq. xv. 7, 3; Strabo, xvi. 2, 34. 

2 Two talents, which at £375 each— the pound sterling being equal to 
$4.84— would be $3630. 1 Kings xvi. 24. 



326 BEAUTIFUL VALLEY OF SHECHEM. 



that he slew " all his servants and all his priests." 1 
"Howbeit, from the sins of Jeroboam, the son of Nebat, 
who made Israel to sin, Jehu departed not from after 
them, (to wit,) the golden calves that [were] in Bethel 
and that [were] in Dan." Like many others, very 
generously pious save where gold was to be sacrificed, 
he found his snare in that idol which he would not 
forbear to worship, though it was in the form of a calf. 
Somewhere on this hill Jehu was buried, as was Omri 
before him and other kings. Here, too, the horrors of 
a famine were so great, when Benhadad besieged the 
city, that an ass's head brought forty dollars from those 
who had the money. 2 

At ten minutes before three o'clock we came to an 
aqueduct, running at a right angle with the valley, 
supplying a mill, and having twelve very picturesque 
arches; and at three o'clock we entered the charming 
valley of Nabulous, the Sychar of the New Testament 
and the Shechem of the Old. The whole valley is an 
enchanting scene of rivulets, gardens, olives and figs, 
and groves of various trees, and the best-watered and 
most fertile and beautiful that we have seen at any 
time. Hiding on rapidly, we come to a foaming 
cascade, which our Moslem guide jocosely calls the 
" first cataract." And now springs and aqueducts 
and graceful arches are so frequent that we make no 

1 2 Kings x. 19. 

2 A pint and a half of dove's dung was valued at two dollars and a half, — 
certainly not for food, as some suppose, but probably to be used, as it is at 
present, as a rapid fertilizer for the gardens, to hasten and improve the 
growth of vegetables, for which it is admirably adapted in this land. 



GOTHIC AND THE POINTED ARCH. 



327 



attempt to number them, but put spurs to our horses 
and enjoy the exhilaration of air and scene, soon 
entering Nabulous, and arriving at our resting-place at 
a quarter before four o'clock. 1 The place is larger than 
any hitherto passed, containing a population of seventy- 
five hundred, and has several streets arched with heavy 
blocks of masonry. 

Nowhere but at Jerusalem can such a variety of arches 
be seen as on the course we have this day travelled. And 
curiosity alone would prompt to the desire to know some- 
thing of these arches, which have so frequently been 
passed over under the very ambiguous word " Gothic." 
It appears certain that the introduction of the pointed 
arch into Christian architecture during the twelfth cen- 
tury is due to the Mohammedans. It is singular that, 
though the Mohammedans had at first no architectural 
style of their own, and though they employed Christian 
architects when they began to build their mosques, they 
should nevertheless establish a style peculiarly Arabian. 
Such, however, is the fact, notwithstanding they at first 
"sent to the Emperor of Constantinople to solicit for 
artists and materials." 2 Their style was a mixture, of 
Byzantine character, having for the most part Roman 

1 The statistical notes are, "At two o'clock passed under two arches 
not far from a spring, Ain Kefr Ferat, in sight of Samaria; half a 
mile farther on, a little mud hamlet of thirty or forty families, Deir Sheduf. 
At fifteen minutes before three, have on the right, after a sight of Nabulous 
across the valley, two villages, the one nearest and on the declivity Beit 
Eber, and the one on the height Beit Ibzil. At ten minutes before three., 
come to twelve arches ; at three, enter the valley ; and at twenty minutes 
after, arrive at another aqueduct and creek." 

2 Glossary, &c. Architecture, 5th ed., 4 vols. 8vo, vol. i. 39, Oxford, 1850. 



328 



MOHAMMEDAN ARCHES. 



and Grecian columns with mixed capitals. Their early 
princes, fond of building, and not confined to any order, 
exercised a taste which resulted in various forms of the 
pointed arch, first altering the round arch by drawing in 
the imposts 1 and creating the Moorish arch, which is in 
the form of a horse-shoe. Several of these together 
compose the various "foil" arches, which were also pro- 
bably introduced into Christian churches from Moham- 
medan architecture, or, more definitely, Moorish, as the 
pointed style is peculiarly Saracenic or Eastern, while 
the horse-shoe arch is Spanish and Western. The latter, 
however, occurs in Constantinople, yet most extensively 
and richly in Spain, and to the southeast in Barbary. 
Early in this Moorish style of arch, about the seventh cen- 
tury, arose the pointed style with the Eastern Egyptians ; 
for it is found in the Nilometer at Cairo, a.d. 848, and in 
the mosque of Teyloun, a.d. 876, the inscriptions settling 
the dates, and also in the mosque El Aksa at Jerusalem, 
rebuilt a.d. 780. This pointed arch, therefore, is pecu- 
liarly Arabian in its origin, and hence called Saracenic. 
Gradually it modified the old heavy circular arch of the 
Norman and the Roman, till the light pointed arch be- 
came usual in civil architecture, and, as we have said, was 
finally introduced into church-architecture in the twelfth 
century. 2 

1 The "impost" is that part where the arch ceases to curve, or where it rests 
upon the support. Sometimes it is " continuous," but at others determined 
by a capital, or by a simple change in the general form or section: such are 
"discontinuous." Again, it is determined simply by horizontal mouldings. 

2 In speaking of edifices as "Gothic," and having a reference to principles 
and not forms, one may correctly describe a building of perfectly Gothic 
style that has no pointed arch in connection with it. Arches are only forms 



A PLEASANT HOME. 



329 



On entering our new home, we found pillows and 
carpets spread for our convenience. Things generally 
wore a neat appearance. Some pleasant, well-dressed 
children formed a part of the family. At dinner we have 
wild ducks from Huleh, which are excellent, and after- 
ward we finished up a sketch of Sychar taken at the 
time we turned into the valley. On the right are the 
ridges of Gerizim, on the left is Ebal, and the direction 
of vision is southeast, from a position about one hour 
from the city, which looks somewhat as if on a plain. 




SYCHAR AND THE VALLEY, LOOKING SOUTHEAST. 



The following morning we were up at daylight ; and at 
the proper time, and after some visits, we presented our- 
selves at the Samaritan synagogue. In a room adjoining 

of certain principles, and the absence of pointed arches is a different, per- 
haps an unusual, form of a certain principle, but not necessarily a different 
style or principle of architecture. ''Gothic/' therefore, when used (as it is 
in some instances) to describe buildings having pointed arches, is a very am- 
biguous term. See Architectural Glossary before referred to, p. 41. 

21* 



330 



THE OLD MANUSCRIPT. 



the synagogue we had some conversation with the patri- 
archal Samaritan priest, who wears a long white beard. 
He soon became quite social, and among other inquiries 
added one which seems to be a standing question in refe- 
rence to the number of his sect in America, England, and 
elsewhere, which we answered " according to the best of 
our knowledge." He then led us into the synagogue, but 
did not require that we should remove our shoes, though 
one of our number did so. My companion and myself, find- 
ing it inconvenient, did not follow his example. After ex- 
hibiting several antiquities and the ark where were kept 
various manuscripts, he concluded by showing us the rare 
old manuscript of the books of Moses. This manuscript 
of the Pentateuch has been for a long time a matter of 
curiosity to the learned, 1 as being one of the earliest 
manuscripts of the books of Moses. It is in a scroll-like 
form, written, in remarkably regular Samaritan charac- 
ters, in columns four inches and three-quarters wide 
and thirteen long, and kept, carefully wrapped in silk, 
in a case nineteen inches in length. The old man 
remarked that it was three thousand two hundred 
years old, and was written by Abisha, son of Phineas, 
son of Eleazar, son of Aaron. The genealogy of the 
Samaritan as a written language may be seen by 
referring to Appendix I. The parchment was quite 
strong; for, in the act of measuring, I took a "quiet 
liberty" of testing it on the edge. A part is soiled — 
perhaps fourteen inches — and somewhat injured from 
constant opening, but not from the handling of visitors, 

1 See its history in Rob. Bibl. Res., vol. iii. 129-132. 



ONE PLEASANT SPOT. 



331 



as the old priest seemed very careful in exhibiting it, 
and, though quite friendly, would not permit me to 
feel the weight by holding it myself. On unrolling it 
further, it was clean, but yellow. The old man in- 
formed me that there were "seventy Samaritan men 
and boys and one hundred girls and women" — simply 
meaning one hundred and seventy — in Nabulous. 

On returning, we passed several buildings having 
balconies. Some of these buildings were more than two 
stories high. The finest view of the country is from 
the top of Gerizim, where there are ruins and a sacred 
place visited four times a year by the Samaritans. On 
our return we were so much pleased with the pleasant 
and agreeable reception we met from the family, and 
with the cleanliness and grace of the children, that we 
were led to inquire into their history, when we 
learned that they were the converts of the Protestant 
missionaries, and were Christians, the effect of faith 
being " seen and read of all men" in the cleanliness 
and beauty of their social life. We were sorry to 
leave so much warm-hearted kindness in a foreign 
land; but, exchanging salutations and leaving the 
yard because of the straitness of the gate, we mounted 
our horses in the street, and soon found ourselves amid 
a crowd — nay, a mob — of dogs, boys, and beggars, 
with women, asses, and dirty old men, swarming 
around, poking their long arms up for "bakshish," 
and some taking hold of our reins. But our Moslem 
Michael, who had lately joined us, and was a noble 
fellow for size and manners, gave a loud " whoop," 



332 



SINGULAR ECHO AT EBAL. 



leading the way, and our whips soon cleared the track, 
amid cries and hallooing which sounded more as if an 
army was leaving than a few travellers and servants. 

Quitting the gate, where a fee was paid for exit, and 
riding along the valley, we passed the tents, stones, and 
mud troughs made for the army of Mohammed Pasha, 
Governor of Akka, who had been here with eight thou- 
sand soldiers to settle a quarrel between two sheiks. 
Hundreds of light-colored Moslem tombs are in the 
plain or valley. Mount Ebal seems smoother and 
higher than Gerizim; and as we face Ebal there is a 
remarkably regular but angular concavity in the side, 
which may be thus described. Imagine a pyramid 
to be cut off one half-way from top to base, and this 
truncated pyramid to be inverted on a plain, and the 
hills and soil to be thrown up against three sides to 
the level of the inverted base. Then remove the 
pyramid, and the cavity left will represent this strange 
recess in Mount Ebal, save that some trees and vege- 
tation have sprung up on the distant side and verdure 
on the two nearer. 

The recollection of the " curse to be pronounced on 
Mount Ebal and the blessing on Gerizim" 1 made the 
fact more observable that opposite this strange cavity 
the sound and echo were remarkably distinct, so that 
early in the morning some of our party were inclined to 
whoop and make loud speeches, simply on , account of 
the wonderful distinctness with which our voices seemed 
to be heard by the goat-tenders on the opposite side. 



1 Deut. xxvii. 11. 



EARLY SETTLEMENTS ON THE PLAIN. 333 



The distance averaged a quarter of a mile when but a 
short distance above the plain. We perceived no dif- 
ference in soil or in general cultivation between the two 
hills, such as to warrant the supposition of any changes 
resulting from either the curse or the blessing, which 
had no reference to the hills, as will be seen by consult- 
ing the passages referred to. At a short distance beyond, 
we arrive at a square reservoir and a spring. A clear 
and lively little stream, several inches deep, rushes out 
and onward to the plain. East of the valley is the plain 
of Shechem, 1 and in an hour and a half we come up to 
the " well of Jacob," for " he came to Shalem," perhaps 
the Salim now in the plain, "which was a city of 
Shechem," and pitched his tent before the city, and 
bought " a part of the plain [the plain of Moreh, Gen. 
xii. 6] from the children of Hamor, Shechem's father, 
for one hundred pieces of silver," perhaps forty dollars. 2 
But his proximity to these Shechemites, who were 
Canaanites, was the occasion of trouble between their 
families and of the idolatry of his own ; and as, in con- 
nection with the mention of strange gods, there is also 
that of ear-rings, it is probable that these ornaments 
were idolatrous emblems. They were " hid under the 
oak which was by Shechem" 3 before the patriarch left 
for Bethel and the South. But even after Jacob settled 
in the South at Hebron, this plain was a pasture-land for 
the nocks of his sons, and they came here because of its 

1 It will be necessary to consult the map in order to get an idea of the 
relations of the valley to the plain. 

2 Or one hundred lambs. See note 1, p. 336. 

3 Gen. xxxv. 4. 



334 MEASUKING THE DEPTH OF THE WELL. 



richness. 1 This well is " near to the parcel of ground 
that Jacob" bought and afterward "gave to his son 
Joseph." 2 If this is the ancient well, (and there seems 
no reason to doubt it, 3 ) "how many centuries have passed 
since Jacob drank thereof, himself, and his children, and 
his cattle !" And how many more, filled with the world's 
tumults, its sorrows and victories, have swept over this 
spot since He who was "greater than our father Jacob" 
sat here teaching the woman of Samaria ! Churches and 
mosques and welys have been erected here and have 
fallen into ruins, and during these long periods none have 
been able or willing to cover up or hide this well until 
during the past year, when some Arabs, in their anger at 
not receiving money from travellers, filled it up with 
rocks ! At the time the author visited the well, it was 
open, with ruins lying around; but no mosque or chapel 
was there, and only twelve or fourteen rocks, three of 
which covered the mouth. After the removal of these we 
carefully measured from the level of the rocks to the bot- 
tom. Seven feet from the surface is a ledge and an inclina- 
tion of the side east-southeast. After adding to our tape, 
we found the depth eighty-three feet six inches. We then 
joined halters and ropes, and, letting down a rough piece 
of rock beyond the debris which is around the mouth 
seven feet below the surface, we sounded the bottom and 
brought up some damp, dark soil. The rock also bore 
marks of the limestone against which it had rubbed. 
There were some loose fragments at the bottom, but no 



1 Gen. xxxvii. 12, 14. 2 John iv. 5. 

3 See Dr. Robinson's proofs, vol. iii. p. 95. 



SYCHAR AND SYCHEM THE SAME. 



335 



water. Some travellers have stated that on dropping 
in stones they have heard the plash of water. 1 There 
was no water there at the time of our visit, near the close 
of December; and it may be that to this irregularity of 
supply the words of our Saviour allude, — " he would have 
given thee living water." 2 The well at which our Saviour 
sat was not a living well, but only to be depended upon 
occasionally. The ruins near the well do not appear to 
be those of a city, but of the many churches and other 
buildings erected in times past. The context of John 
iv., the mention of Jacob's well therein, and the context 
of Gen. xii. 6, where in Abraham's time there was " a 
place of Sichem," together with the other references 
given above, make it improbable that another city Sychar 
in the times of the Saviour would have been built 
near the well of Jacob, with such a city as Nabulous 
(commonly called Nablus) but a few minutes' walk up the 
valley. The very causes which would have permitted 
this supposed city Sychar to fall to ruins near the well 
would have prevented the erection of it at all. Yet some 
suppose that there was a Sychar near the well, distinct 
from Sichem at Nablus. A few hundred yards to the 
north is Joseph's tomb; and, with considerable faith in 
the tradition, we may suppose that near to this spot his 
body, embalmed after the manner of the Egyptians, 
was carried and deposited. 3 All the natives seem to 
agree in the tradition. Joseph, therefore, was buried 
in the land, " the parcel" which was the present of his 



l Dr. Stuart, Tent and Khan, p. 409, March 21. 

3 Gen. 1. 26 ; Joshua xxiv. 33. 



2 John iv. 10. 



336 



herdsman's purchase. 



father to him many years anterior, and which was pro- 
bably bought for one hundred lambs, as the word in the 
original signifies either "piece of money" or "lamb." 
The word occurs but once more, not in connection with 
this place, which also favors this interpretation ; and as 
Jacob probably had more lambs than money, we are free 
to infer that lambs would be the offer of a herdsman in 
a purchase. 1 What a contrast is presented between the 
two pictures, — the one, Jacob purchasing a place for his 
tent, and the other the entombment of Joseph, at that time 
when Israel's power, wealth, and numbers were so great ! 

After leaving the well, the following is the appearance 
of the plain, the mountains Ebal on the right and 
Gerizim on the left. The recess in the former, 
seen obliquely, is observable between the tops on the 
right. At the base, more in the foreground, amid 
some rubbish, are the well of Jacob and tomb of Joseph. 
Passing on, at ten o'clock I stopped to examine the soil 

l lt occurs again, Job xlii. 11. The Septuagint, nearly three hundred 
years B.C., has enarov a/uvov, a hundred lambs. Onkelos, perhaps contem- 
porary with Gamaliel, (St. Paul's instructor,) in his Chaldee Targum, has 
^"l^n nK£D2p> the same, while the Latin translation follows with centum 
agnis. Abraham Aben Ezra (comment, on Job) expounds the passage 
in Job as an ewe-lamb. Some suppose a lamb was stamped on the pieces ; 
but Herod, (lib. i. p. 18) says coining was invented by the Lydians long after. 
Besides, (Gen. xxiii. 16,) we find that money was weighed by the shekel, 
which was the Hebrew word for a standard weight, current with the mer- 
chants. This early method of buying by sheep and cattle seems to be the 
origin of the Latin " pecunia," from "pecus," sheep or cattle, used as the 
synonymous term for money. The same custom is referred to in Homer, II. 6. 

" For Diomed's brass arms of mean device, 
For which of oxen paid, (a vulgar price,) 
He gave his own, of gold divinely wrought : 

A hundred beeves the shining purchase bought." — Pope's Translation. 

See the same and more in Purver, crit. trans., in loco, Lon, 2 vols, folio, 17G4. 



ATTACKED BY A LITTLE TROOP. 337 




MOUNTAINS GERIZIM AND EBAL. 

of the plain upon which we have been riding, when 
suddenly a troop of children rushed down upon me from 
a little village, Hawara, some distance off on my right. 
Girls and boys had now a chance to stone a living 
Frank; and they rushed to the onset with a good will. 
At first it was amusing to hear their cries and remarks, 
one word of which, however, — the epithet " Nazarene," 
still used for Christians,— brought past times strongly to 
my mind, as one little fellow called out, "Get away from 
our town, you Nazarene !" I was easily mounted ; and, 
not fearing much from a company of girls and boys, 
— two or three of whom, however, were sixteen or seven- 
teen years of age, — I remained quiet upon my horse until 
they approached, when a volley of stones from the 
urchins proved that they had spied me alone in the 
distance and had armed themselves in the village where 
they had planned the attack. My horse was manageable ; 

22 



338 CHASING THE ENEMY. 

and, bending my head, my enemy had the pleasure of a 
race. Soon all stones were dropped; and, though they 
were exceedingly active, I had nearly succeeded in 
serving two or three as Gideon did the inhabitants of 
Succoth, by "teaching"' them with my thorn stick. 
But by this time I was under the village; and the up- 
roar from the " old folks" was like that from a nest of 
hornets, — one man appearing quite in earnest about 
trying his gun, which would probably have done him 
more damage than myself. Turning my horse, I was 
soon up with my companions, who were about a mile in 
advance. It often hajypens that the inhabitants exhibit a 
delight in annoying travellers, though they have not 
always courage to carry matters to extremes. The 
country between this long and level plain of Mukhna, 
(the modern name of the plain of Shecheai.) running 
north and south, and the place of our night's rest, does 
not vary much in appearance from what we had previ- 
ously passed; and the statistical matter I have com- 
prised in the note 1 or placed on the map. 

1 On the plain the soil is generally cultivated. — is brown, though some is 
light, — verdure pleasant: the wheat crop would average from seven to twelve 
bushels per acre, from appearance. The plain is about five miles long from 
the well to the southern terminus, and averages one mile in width : and an- 
other square mile northward would give, with the eastern extension of about a 
mile, seven square miles of very level, arable, and apparently moderately fruit- 
ful soil. The sides of the hills are less arable, but are cultivated. One hour 
and ten minutes from the well, a valley sets in from the right and crosses 
into the east ridge, and at its end, half a mile distant, is a village. Five 
minutes after, the plain becomes a valley, some of the soil richer than here- 
tofore, though not very rich anywhere. Fifteen minutes later, we ascend 
the southern limit of the plain and meet the twentieth variety of bird, in i\ 
small dark-brown owl, smaller than a pigeon and evidently in trouble 
from the light. In twenty minutes we are up the ascent, and begin a de- 



S H I L H. 



339 



Shiloh is so completely a confused and shapeless 
mass of ruins that little more can be said of the place 
than that it is ground to pieces amid rubbish and dust. 
Even in the times of J erome " scarcely the foundations 
of an altar were to be pointed out." 1 Yet the former 
state and sanctity of this place made it one of the most 
noted in the early times of Israel, 2 before " the Lord for- 
sook the tabernacle of Shiloh" and " chose the tribe of 
Judah, the Mount Zion, which he loved." (Ps. Ixxviii. 
60, 68 ; Jer. vii. 12.) There are interesting excava- 
tions in a valley to the east and near Ain Seilun. 
Shiloh is on the east end of a ridge running east and 
west. There is a pass or break in the ridge, from 
which some interesting specimens of fossils may be ob- 
tained, as at Samaria. We rode up this pass on to the 
ridge near the Ain Khan Lubban. The fossils resem- 
bled the following drawings. 



scent immediately. Fifteen minutes farther, we have descended into a valley 
which opens upon the village La-a-ban, (as the Arabs called the ancient 
Lebonah,) on the right, on a hill, and adjacent a circular plain surrounded 
by an amphitheatre of high hills. Passing on to the khan of the same 
name, we meet the girls spoken of on p. 340. The valley now passes out 
of this plain, east and south, around the ridge at the east end of which is 
Seilun, (Shiloh.) See map. 

^lieron. Com. in Sophon., i. 14; Bibl. Res., vol. iii. p. 88. 

2 See reference in Geographical Appendix. 




SPINE OF THE C1DARI5. (?) 




N E R I N E A. 



340 ARCHED RUINS UNDER GROUND. 

At the Khan of Laaban — as the Arabs pronounced 
it — we met some girls near an ain or spring, richly 
dressed, with sashes around their waists. One declared 
that her own cost more than seven hundred piastres, 
— which one of our guides thought to be true. They 
were filling their leather bottles for the village. The 
sash was of silk and gold lace richly woven in, and 
of a kind which costs sometimes thirty-six dollars. The 
"loins of the natives are girded" in almost all cases 
with some belt or sash; and when a race is expected 
their girdles are drawn tightly up, increasing the agility 
of the runner in the abdominal support thus afforded 
him. It is used also as a pocket for small objects, 
as the folds of the garment on the bosom are used for 
carrying large articles. I have seen some with nearly 
a half-bushel of corn or some other material stowed 
away in the bosom, — which is probably the custom to 
which reference is made in Luke vi. 38. Sinjil on our 
right appears like a ruined tower; and beyond it was 
Jiljilia,, one of the Gilgals of Scripture. 

We pass on to a large stone ruin with a heavy arched 
room under ground, appearing much like a massive 
dungeon, forty or fifty feet in length, and once plastered. 
The name, like that of the spring near it, is pronounced 
Ain Haroumiyeh, though spelled Ilaramiyeh on the 
map. Descending, we enter a valley containing a 
large amount of bare stones, some of tMem ribbed, as 
if water- worn; and soon a village — Ain Yebrud, pro- 
nounced Yabrud — appears on a hill on the right, and on 
the left is Et Taiyibeh, supposed to be Ophra, (also 



BETHEL. 



341 



more lately the city Ephraim, of John ii. 54.) It is singu- 
lar how many villages and ruins are found on hills, many 
of which are in sight or not far off. Ain Yebrud and Ophra, 
the one west of us, the latter east, then Kummon (the 
ancient Rimmon) on the southeast, and some rubbish or 
ruins north of us on Tell Azur, probably one of the 
Hazors of Scripture, all near us, and several more be- 
yond us, each built on a hill. Formerly, these were 
called Ramahs, hills, and Gibeahs, or heads and tops of 
hills : hence the numerous Ramahs of Scripture and 
the difficulty in locating them. 

One of our guides informs us that we shall find bet- 
ter accommodations at Ain Yebrud than at Bireh; but 
we choose the latter. Late in the evening, Bethel and 
its ruins are on our left. Very little remains among those 
ruins worthy of mention. Piles of stones, a remnant of 
a small tenement, and one long building with a short, 
square elevation on the end, are all that we noticed, ex- 
cept an indistinct mass on a hill far off, which probably 
is a ruined tower, and hence its name, Burj Beitin, 
" Tower of Bethel." The guide said it belonged to Bethel ; 
"for," says he, "it was a great city." Sunset sheds a 
beautiful tint on the clouds, and everything looks mourn- 
fully desolate. Not far off is a cave hewn out of the 
rock and capable of accommodating eighteen or twenty 
persons. The voice of a screech-owl resounds over the 
hills with a singular echo ; and my voice, in a song, as I 
ascend toward Bireh, echoes from out of the shadows 
lying on the hills of Bethel. How God has silenced the 
iniquity of the past ! for here the bold idolatry of the calf 



342 UNCOMFORTABLY CLOSE QCJARTERS. 



was encouraged in the times of Jeroboam, and much 
did Israel suffer from the sins which originated here. 

The accommodations in Bireh 1 are poor. I rode up 
alone, having been wandering among the ruins till 
dark, and then passed into the khan, when, lo ! it 
was found to be a veritable stable. The air was cool 
outside, (forty-eight degrees at five o'clock,) but in this 
khan quite warm, especially as we are mounted over 
the animals in a kind of second story, through the floor 
of which we can see all below. Not far from us was a 
Turkish traveller, wife and family, travelling with 
several pets, besides his children, not even having left 
behind a cat, which seemed to be the pet of a little girl, 
and through which as an introduction to the child I 
gained some acquaintance with the father. They 
occupy one corner, and my friends and self another. 
We are here in very uncomfortably close quarters; 
but after supper our beds are made, and we give our 
Turkish friend a plain hint that his scrutiny of our 
preparations for rest will reveal to him the fact that 
we sleep with our "valuables" under our pillow, and 
have besides one gun, — our formidable spy-glass, drawn 
out at full length not far off, being the most like a pistol 
of any thing we carry; but probably it saved us from 
being robbed north of Tiberias. Notwithstanding these 
and many inconveniences not mentioned, we are happy 
and grateful for any comfort attended with so much 
health. 



Beer or Beeroth of Benjamin. 



HILLS NORTH OF JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER XV. 

FROM BIREH TO JERUSALEM. 

The morning on which we left Bireh was cool, the 
thermometer standing at 43° at sunrise. We feel 
deeply grateful for unusual health and for the cheerful 
prospect we have before us to-day. It is a most exciting 
thought to me, who for years have had but a feeble hope 
before me, to think I shall to-day enjoy the reality 
and stand within the walls of Jerusalem. We start at 
twenty minutes before seven o'clock, and travel rapidly 
over a stony road. In thirty-five minutes, on turning 
a hill, the height of Neby Samwil appears on the right, 
with a little wely on its summit, several miles off, and 
a village pronounced Bellad on this side of its declivity. 
At twenty-five minutes before eight o'clock we passed 
on our left, about half a mile off, Er Ram, (Ramah, or. 
as some call it, Ram a heva,) on a flat-topped hill, with 
the tops of two trees seen above a few walls and stones, 
and some singular and extensive arches and ruins called 
Khan er Ram, stretching along for several hundred 
yards. A pretty terraced and cultivated hill appears in 
front, called Tell el Ful and Tuleil el Ful, {the hill of 
the bean.) It is supposed to be the Gibeah of Saul. We 



344 



FIRST VIEW OF JERUSALEM. 



pass to the right, hoping to see Jerusalem; but it 
is not yet visible. Between Er Earn and Neby Samwil, 
we rode over a plain containing singular pits; and, while 
noting some names, my horse, which was so sure- 
footed on the hills, trotted into a hole in the plain. 
The consequence was I went over his head: but so 
soft was the soil that I experienced no injury whatever. 
But my horse soon showed a lameness, which rendered 
him useless to me after reaching J erusalem. 

At twenty minutes after eight o'clock we get a glimpse 
of the Jordan. The waters seem blue against a back- 
ground of hills, and are very beautiful in the early sun- 
light. Seven minutes farther, and we suddenly obtain the 
first glorious view of the towers, the minarets, the mosques 
and walls of Jerusalem. How unspeakably charming 
is this moment's vision, with the morning's freshness, 
and an intensely blue sky, allowing the unclouded rays 
of the sun to bring out every part most distinctly, and at 
a distance which allows nothing to enter the scene but 
that which would heighten the solemn majesty and beauty 
of the city itself and the interesting circle of mountains 
round about! An agreeable brightness of the sun- 
light, the cool stillness of the air, the grandeur and 
enchantment of the whole vision, rob me of every 
desire to take the smallest drawing; and the expecta- 
tion of spending a long time at Jerusalem relieves me 
of anxiety on that score and allows me, to enjoy 
the scene without a desire even to speak. Never 
did silence and loneliness appear so gratifying as 
at this moment. This northeast hill is the finest 



CORROBORATING PAST STUDIES. 



345 



position from which to obtain a view of Jerusalem, as 
I afterward found. Riding on under olive-trees toward 
the northeast corner of the city, and ascending an eleva- 
tion, we meet a doubtful character; apparently native, 
but dressed after the Frank style, who accosts me with 
••'Good-morning, sir," in plain English. No one de- 
sires to hear any thing foreign to the scene : so he is 
answered in Arabic, and we gallop on. At last we have 
passed around to the western part of the city-wall, with 
the Valley of Hinnom on the right and the Pool of 
Gihon plainly seen at its head. ^Ye enter the Jaffa 
gate and proceed to the Latin convent Casa Nuova. 
After visiting our room, an ascent is made to the house- 
top, from which we have a fine view of city and 
country. How interesting was this first view to us' 
It was even more so than the longer views we after- 
ward enjoyed. I can point out almost every noted 
hill within or without the walls. All my reading and 
study on the city seem only like a past dream and 
this the reality: and the place is like one wherein a 
previous residence had been spent, and I am now like 
one on a visit after a long absence. Three palm-trees 
were seen in the city, though, from what had been 
told us, we had the impression we should see none. 

We entered at five minutes after nine o'clock, ob- 
tained our view from the convent, and, after brushing 
off the red mud which clung to us and reminded us of the 
contrast of soil on our way, we made our exit from the 
Jaffa gate on the west for a general survey, and walked 

around Jerusalem. A few yards beyond the gate were 

22* 



346 WALKS SOUTHEAST OF THE CITY. 



a number of leprous beggars, lifting up the remnants 
of their arms and holding up their diseased faces, cry- 
ing out in Arabic for alms. It is a horrible sight, but 
impresses one deeply with the necessity of those who 
once were healed by Him who no longer walks in 
visible form among these hills on his errands of healing 
and mercy. On our left is the tower of Hippicus, 
which Herod built and called after one of his friends, 
and which forms a part of the walls; and thence we 
descend into the Valley of Hinnom, which here runs 
south, but soon turns to the east around the base of 
Zion. Eeaching the gate of Zion, on the south of the 
city, tombstones of the Greek, Latin, and Armenian 
cemeteries are seen, covered with singular characters, 
some with compasses, square rules, masons' tools, others 
with scissors and tape, signifying the trade followed 
by the deceased. Passing dow r n the hill southeast 
from Zion's gate, the well of Job is found at the junc- 
tion of the Valley of Hinnom coming in from the west 
and the brook of Kidron (now dry) coming down from 
the north. Here is a little flat with some cultivation. 
Tradition tells us that Job comforted himself by the 
waters of this well, when in affliction; but the proba- 
bility is that, having been repaired by Saladin, it received 
its title from him as the well of Saladin. His name 
was also Job, and to him we have referred before, 
(p. 248.) It is also called the well of Joab and of 
Nehemiah, but is most probably the En Rogel of 
Scripture, and is at the head of the Arab Wady er 
Rahib, or valley of the monks, so named from the 



TOMB OF ABSALOM. 



347 



situation of the convent Mar Saba upon it. It is also 
called Wady en Nar, or valley of fire. This, however, more 
properly belongs to that part below the convent. The 
well of Job at this time (24th of December) is very 
deep, with water plainly visible; and, by reflecting the 
sunlight into the well, it can be seen that it is walled 
with rock and massive stones. At the top there are 
stone baths attached, and a bath-room to the north of 
the mouth of the well. The depth we find to be seventy- 
eight feet eleven inches from the surface of the water 
to the top of the curbstone, which lies a few inches 
above the ground. The water is quite cool, perhaps 
55° Fahrenheit: a self-registering thermometer (which 
we did not have) is the only instrument by which the 
temperature could be certainly ascertained. Passing 
north up the Valley of Kidron four hundred yards, 
there are gardens directly west of us, and we hear the 
soft murmur of Siloa's brook as it flows from the Pool of 
Siloam. On the right is the village of Siloam or Kefr 
Selwan, built on a spur of the Mount of Olives, but con- 
sisting principally of caves in the mountain-rock. Two 
hundred yards farther north is the Fountain of the Virgin 
and the terminus of the long village of Siloam. Farther 
north, and fifty yards north of the line of the south 
wall of the grounds of the Mosque of Omar, on the 
side of the hill, are the tombs first of Zachariah, then 
of James, of Absalom, and of Jehoshaphat. That of 
Absalom is most prominent, and is distinguished by its 
square body and conical top. There is a hole in each 
of its four sides some distance from the ground, 



348 



ENTERING THE TOMB. 



into which the Jews and others have thrown such a 
number of stones that the tomb is full to overflowing, 
— it being a custom to throw one stone, in passing, to 
show contempt for the unclutiful son. The very pillars 
and the sides of the wall are worn by the long-continued 
stone-throwing, and the ground around it is covered with 
stones which failed to pass into the holes. Verily "the 
name of the wicked shall rot." 

By the aid of my friend, and after considerable 
effort, I effected an entrance through one of the holes, 
and, creeping over the stones, found the measurement 
of the monument on the inside to be seven feet four 
inches from east to west by seven feet eight inches from 
north to south, — as the monument is set with its sides 
to the cardinal points. The measurement might be 
slightly increased if three arched recesses found within 
were included. Around the ceiling is a moulding of the 
following pattern, and also a centre-piece, much injured 



by the stones thrown in. Passing through an opening on 
the south, where an exit can be made over a few step-like 
cuttings in the rock, to the outside, and, re-entering at the 
spire or conical part, an ascent is obtained, through some 
large blocks of limestone laid together with mortar of lime 




GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 



349 



and coarse fragments of limestone for sand, which from 
age has become as hard as marble. The total height 
of the monument from the ground appears to be about 
fifty feet. South, north, and east of these monuments, 
which are clustered together, are many tombs of the 
Jews. A few, however, are on the west, and very 
few near the tomb of Absalom; and they are simply 
flat stones with Hebrew inscriptions. Three hundred 
yards farther north is the Garden of Gethsemane. It 
is enclosed with an apparently modern wall; and, 
ascending a little mound on the east of the wall, you 
have a view of the whole interior. Little spots are 
enclosed by lattice-railings and cultivated in a pleasing 
manner; and very nearly equally scattered over the 
grounds are eight olive-trees, seemingly of great age, and 
quite different in appearance from any I have hitherto 
seen, as they are hollow near the roots, the openings being 
filled up with white stones. I am told that the olive when 
thus decayed is really most hardy; and we have not 
seen five very thrifty and productive trees in all Syria 
which did not appear to be decayed and hollow near the 
ground, though not to the same extent. 

These old trees, with great probability, are the im- 
mediate descendants from those that stood on the spot 
at the time of that last night — the lone night of agony 
— which the Saviour spent with his disciples. 1 Va- 
rious flowers and plants are seen in various places, 
which appear to be cultivated by those who have charge 



1 Matt, xxvi. 36. 



350 



FLOWERS OF GETHSEMANE. 



of the garden. Among them are the rosemary, 1 the 
graceful, modest little purple-and-white cyclamen, 2 the 
double blue larkspur, (Delphinium, of the kind in the 
plate of flowers, over the fourth thorn from the left, 
on the branch lying at the bottom of the picture : the 
flowers are partly lying in the pomegranate,) the 
Adonis, (autumnalis,) beautifully figured immediately 
over the first thorn, and the spotted variety, 3 still 
higher in the view, and recognised by the similarity of 
leaves. The sage is also there. Other varieties are 
seen, but generally not so truly belonging to the 
country, — such as geraniums and roses. On the moun- 
tain near us are some additional varieties, among the 
rest a little plant, six to eight inches high, fre- 
quently spreading on the ground, with small narrow 
leaves, and white silk-like quantities of "everlasting" 
flowers, each petal strong but delicate and translucent. 
It is called by the Frank inhabitants the " everlasting." 4 
One little blue plant, having bright, cheerful-looking 
flowers, grows freely on the Mount of Olives. It is the 
farthest blue flower to the right hand in the plate; 
and the specimen from which the artist drew this 
figure was plucked from where it is said the Saviour 
wept over Jerusalem. The little yellow specimen on 
the stems next to the blue flower on the right is a deli- 
cate little flower growing on the Mount of Olives, in 
the gardens, and pushing up through the stones and 
flags on the housetops. Indeed, its little yellow 



Rosmarinus Officinalis, Linn. 2 C. Europeum. 

Annua. Mill. 4 Botanically, Paronychia Hispanica, var. B. Poic. 



ENTRANCE TO THE MOSQUE OF OMAR. 351 

blossoms are met with everywhere. The specimen 
furnished for the plate grew near the steps of the 
Mosque of Omar; and, small as it is, — being in nature 
only one-third larger than in the figure, — it is a poppy, 
and yields a narcotic juice. 1 

Leaving Gethsemane and proceeding westward, we 
passed the Grotto of the Virgin on the right, and entered 
the gate of St. Stephen, three hundred yards northwest 
of Gethsemane, called also by the monks the gate of 
Sitti Miriam, or Lady Mary. Turning to the left on 
entering, we had on our right the deep reservoir, 
supposed by some to be the Pool of Bethesda, but 
by Dr. Robinson to be the fosse around the ancient 
tower of Antonia. 2 It has evidently been used as a cis- 
tern, as the incrustation distinctly proves. But its steep 
sides and great depth, together with the absence of any 
appearance of such porches as are described in Scripture, 
make it difficult to find in it any resemblance to the scrip- 
tural Bethesda. A Turkish sentinel, supposing that we 
intended to enter the mosque-area, yelled at us, at the 
same time presenting his musket; but we saved him 
further trouble by passing on to another gate, where 
we had the opportunity of viewing the grounds, though 
we did not enter. A large number — upwards of one 
hundred — of ladies and gentlemen entered the grounds 
and the Mosque of Omar on the 7th of April, 1855; 
and the Rev. Dr, Clason, one of the company, describes 
the mosque in a letter to Dr. Stuart. It is cased on 

1 Order Papaveracese, species Hypocoum erectum, Linn. 

2 Joseph. Wars of the Jews, vii. 2. 7; Bibl. Res., vol. i. pp. 434, 486. 



352 



DEATH FROM THE FIRE OF COALS. 



the outside with encaustic tiles of the brightest colors, 
and the windows are divided by marble columns. In- 
side are arabesques, gilding, and mosaics of the bright- 
est colors ; and the light, passing through richly-stained 
glass, casts upon the whole an indescribable splendor. 
Under the dome is the holy rock, of native limestone, 
surrounded by a screen of carved wood. Under that 
rock is a passage where is shown a place said to be 
that upon which Isaac was offered. The company 
then passed out and beyond to Mosque El Aksa, to the 
south. This was once a Christian church, and was evi- 
dently originally built after the Byzantine style of the 
seventh century, — in the shape of a cross, with a dome 
at the intersection of nave and transept. The usual mo- 
saics and stained glass were found here, but the church 
did not exhibit the richness of the Mosque of Omar. 1 

On reaching the convent, we found our room pre- 
pared for us. There were iron bedsteads, stone floors 
and ceilings, and very scanty furniture, leaving the 
impression that at all events there was little risk 
of fire, notwithstanding our hot furnace of coals 
was placed on the floor. The disengagement of car- 
bonic acid gas from these furnaces we should think 
would cause frequent disease and loss of life; and we 
are not surprised to hear of the melancholy death of 
one man who had occupied the room in which we are 
now sitting. Not being aware of the nature of the exha- 
lations, he closed his door at night, and in the morning 
was found dead. 



1 Dr. Stuart's Tent and Khan, p. 517. 



PROCESSION TO BETHLEHEM. 



353 



CHAPTER XVI. 

VISIT TO BETHLEHEM THE FEAST OF NATIVITY BEAUTY OF 

THE BETHLEHEMITES. 

At four o'clock p.m. we left the Jaffa gate, and, 
crossing the Valley of Hinnom, took a south course 
to Bethlehem. The road was thronged with people 
hastening to the festival like ourselves. The way, 
though at times rocky, is generally good, and the 
plains permit rapid riding. About four miles and a 
half from the city we passed Rachel's tomb on our 
right; but, intending to examine it on our return, 
we hastened on, and after riding three-quarters of a 
mile farther approached the city of the Saviour's 
nativity. The sun had just set. The air was plea- 
sant, the atmosphere clear, and the evening star 
brightly shining through the yellow sky of the west and 
considerably above the horizon. All was serenely beauti- 
ful; and, having allowed my companions to pass on, I 
commenced singing that beautiful hymn, — 

" Brightest and best of the Sons of the morning, 
Dawn on our darkness and lend us thine aid," &c. 

The hills answered to my voice; and, on looking 
behind, I found that I had been unconsciously at the head 
of a procession, an Armenian bishop being one of my 

23 



354 



THIEF IN THE CONVENT. 



followers, together with a number of natives in xirab 
costumes, quietly permitting me to lead the way into 
the arched entrance to the village. 

We arrived at the convent at thirty minutes after five 
o'clock. The place was crowded. Hundreds were there 
from all parts ; and, after waiting a short time, we were 
shown up-stairs into a plain room with a stone floor, con- 
taining five beds, — a few planks on iron trestles serving 
for bedsteads. After waiting a short time, we were 
invited down to a convent-dinner, which, like the one 
at Nazareth, consisted principally of macaroni or 
vermicelli soup; but the vermicelli was, as one of our 
half-educated servants said, " biled" in " ile," and 
was indescribably unpalatable, because, being fast-day, 
the monks were not allowed to let us have any " but- 
ter, milk, or meat." We made a pitiful repast, however, 
upon a few fish from Jaffa and some bread. After 
a short rest on our trestle-bedsteads, we were roused 
to attend service, when I found that some thief had 
made away with a little silver compass I had pur- 
chased in Sheffield, (Eng.,) to use when on horseback. It 
was irrecoverably gone, with the guard-chain to which 
it was attached ; and no one knew any thing about it. 

At ten o'clock we descended to the church, which is 
enclosed by the convent-walls. The larger room of the 
convent is ornamented with high but somewhat dispropor- 
tionate Corinthian columns; and adjoining is the smaller 
chapel, where the services had already commenced. The 
interior presents a singular scene of drapery, lighted 
candles, canopies, old paintings, columns, and frescoes; 



A STRANGE SCENE. 355 

and a perfect floor of turbans and little red Syrian Fez 
caps is before us, and more turbans are moving in 
through the doors. Among the crowd a European dress 
is occasionally seen; but the spectators in a very 
great majority are Syrians. And now the music on 
the organ becomes rather cheerful than sacred, and 
the priests are assembling and the " performances'* in 
progress. If it were not for the fact that every impres- 
sion which legitimately follows all we hear and see is 
in diametrical opposition to every idea of devotion, an 
intelligent worshipper w T ould be so pained by incon- 
gruities that he would be driven away from the place by 
his owm sense of the irreverence of the scene. This is the 
vicinity of the spot where the Saviour was born. This is 
near to the place where the angels sang the first heavenly 
song that ever was recorded, — a song of the triumph of 
God's mercy and of his justice too, — and this the night 
of the commemoration of such scenes and such holy and 
glorious consequences. I could have given my soul up 
to the rapture of such thoughts had there been a corre- 
spondence in the form of worship and in the music ; but it 
was not possible to feel so. The scene was so utterly at 
variance with all I had anticipated that for a time I was 
forced to forget even that I was in a church, or at Bethle- 
hem, or in Palestine at all. Before the spectators were 
the priests and the paraphernalia of the altar. Over it 
was a small organ, the tones of which were tolerable. 
At first a Te Deum and some uncertain chants were 
played, and the impression was almost devotional ; 
but soon the character of the music became that of 



356 



IRREVERENT MUSIC. 



oratorio, and occasionally I could hear a few bars from 
the music of Masaniello. The people in the mean 
time became quite talkative, and some were smiling 
and moving through the crowd. At last the dense 
mass is surprised by the sudden movement of some 
monks, who, with lighted candles, pass through the 
church, pushing one or two here and passing there 
over and between others, lighting every corner and 
arch where candles had been secreted, until the whole 
church is lit up into a scorching blaze of light. Now 
look around. What a sight presents itself! what 
sounds are heard! Here in Syria are various classes by 
hundreds kneeling, crossing, and chanting as if impelled 
by some sudden and mysterious influence. There in 
front, almost hidden by the glare of a hundred lights, 
is the organ, evidently managed by a skilful hand, — a 
Neopolitan; but never did such violent and irreverent 
contrasts form the music of a church before. The 
grave and solemn, the majestic and the gay and brill- 
iant, waltzes and cotillons and reels, follow each other 
with maddening rapidity; then suddenly there is a pause 
for a bar or two, as if to allow a horrified audience a 
moment to breathe. But no : they need no time. They 
have no desire to breathe a word of objection. All 
seem delighted and exhilarated; and the music quickens, 
and the same frightful irreverence pervades the perform- 
ances of the organist. 

On my right I have for some time noticed the costume 
and faces of a class of girls of whose beauty I have 
heard before. Large numbers are sitting upon the floor, 



BETHLEHEM 



: — ITS BEAUTIES. 



357 



some of them dressed most gorgeously ; and one who wears 
a scarlet cap of the shape usually worn here is surpass- 
ingly beautiful. There is a calm luxuriance of expression 
upon features of most perfect outline, and eyes which set 
at most charming defiance all my powers of description. 
One or two of our evening acquaintances seem to be on 
speaking-terms with several, and a young Syrian in our 
company is a native of the town. A friend from Florence, 
who is an exquisite artist, and myself attempt to sketch 
the costumes and faces. The young lady of the scarlet 
cap perceives that I am sketching her; and immediately 
she grasps the flowing veil which seems attached to 
the Fez cap and covers the lower half of her face. 
Making all the apology that my Arabic will permit, I stop 
my work and turn my face in another direction. The 
work is not complete. What am I to do? On a sudden 
turn the little scarlet-capped beauty is again unveiled 
and looking right at me with her cairn, full eye. We 
exchange smiles, and the veil is not restored to her 
face. Though the smile is in Arabic, it means the same 
as in English : I suspect she is a coquette, and is as pretty 
an adept as some others nearer sunset. And now I frank- 
ly show her my drawing. Others smile too, and she is 
pleased, and gives me permission to complete the sketch. 

A movement takes place among the crowd. Incense 
rises thick and suffocating; the chants are louder and 
slower; and the senseless ceremony commences of lifting 
a little wooden infant with glaring glass eyes, dressed in a 
white gown, to be seen and worshipped by the dense mass 
of human beings; after which an opening is made and 



358 



THE GROTTO. 



general preparations commence to leave the chapel for 
the grotto beneath. Candles are passed from the 
monks to the people, and many accept; and, lighting 
them, amid clouds of incense and songs and chants and 
the sound of the organ and the conversation of hun- 
dreds, the mass moves onward to the grotto. This is 
supposed to be the place where our Saviour was born ; 
and on the right, a few steps lower, is the place " where he 
was laid soon afterward." The following sketch will give 




the best idea of the place, and is the view we obtained 
after passing down the steps seen on the left. The star 
represents the spot where the Saviour is said to have been 
born, and has twelve lights burning within, one for each 
apostle. On the right is another descent into what is 
called the cell of the manger. Overhead are ostrich- 
shells, from each of which is pendent a lamp said 
to be of gold; and the ceiling and sides are covered 



THE BAMBINO. 



359 



with red cloth, apparently cotton, which covers the 
rough rock. On the left I think the number of steps 
is nineteen, but on the right thirteen and each eight 
inches high. Hence the floor of the grotto is nine feet 
below the church-floor. The room is only about ten feet 
wide by fifteen or twenty feet long and about nine feet 
high. We were offered a candle with which to accompany 
the "Bambino," as the doll is called; but we chose to 
see by the lights of others, and, getting in advance, we 
descended before the crowd. Here we again met some 
of the Bethlehemite girls, who recognised us quite gra- 
ciously. Our little madonna was now accompanied by a 
brother, who had evidently heard of the adventure, and 
was rather offended at our success. One of our party 
made a very satisfactory explanation, when he declared 
that nothing but the highest compliment and respect 
could be inferred. The young lady was evidently the belle 
of the occasion, and wore a scarlet cap in contradistinction 
to those of a lighter color worn by others of her company. 
I was told by residents that these Bethlehemite girls, so 
celebrated everywhere, were as noted for their indepen- 
dence and moral character as for their beauty, and that 
repeated efforts had been unsuccessfully made at Jeru- 
salem to obtain their services among the Frank ladies. 
They are supposed to be descendants of the Crusaders; 
but I could obtain no records or history in regard to them, 
and they have the appearance of a Caucasian origin. My 
friend afterward gave me his sketch, by which, with the 
aid of an artist at Malta and a painting executed in Paris, 
I have been enabled to convey to the engraver a correct 



360 



THE GROTTO. 



idea of the original, whose name — spelled Hanefa, though 
pronounced Haneefa — we found to be a favorite name. 

Soon the crowd descended the steps, headed by a 
priest carrying the shocking little object about sixteen 
inches long, representing the infant Saviour. The incense 
and the crowd now become suffocating : we almost gasp for 
air; and yet there is no possible exit. The priest sings, 
and the little Syrian boys respond, and all press together 
in compound force. The head-priest puts the Bambino 
into the recess represented in the sketch, getting down 
upon his knees and singing. I know not whether to call 
the scene ludicrous or horrid. The monk sings, putting 
his head so far into the grotto that the voice sounds like 
that of a man in some deep pit and in distress ; and all 
the people keep silence. Then he removes the infant to 
the other cell, where it is left till morning. We return 
to the chapel, and a half-hour is spent, during which some 
of the same waltzes are performed, and afterward all pro- 
menade out to bed. We now have but three hours for rest 
before breakfast ; and yet some boys are in our room offer- 
ing for sale large quantities of beads worked out of olive 
and tamarind seeds and stained red. Some are for rosa- 
ries, others for ornaments. Long strings of small beads 
made of pearl-shell are also sold, and the pearl-shell itself, 
taken from the Eed Sea, and engraved and carved with in- 
taglios representing St. John and the Lamb, the Virgin, 
&c. Pieces of the rock stained by St. Stephen's blood, and 
some of the black rock from the Dead Sea, dut of which 
bowls are carved, are also offered, and olive- wood beads, &c. 

After breakfast I obtained a sketch of Bethlehem from 



herod's burial-place. 361 

the convent, and have taken care to represent the build- 
ings as they stand. On the right is the stone fence, near 
to which we pass in returning to Jerusalem. 




From the top of the convent and also from a height 
eighteen minutes nearly due west, the country may be 
seen to advantage. About three miles southeast is the 
Jebl el Fureidis, (Mount of Paradise,) the Herodiun of 
Joseph us, from which the finest view of the surrounding 
country can be had. Josephus asserts that this mount 
was "entirely fictitious," and that Herod here erected a 
fortress and palace, calling it after himself, the ascent to 
which was upon the finest white marble steps. Here also 
"Herod sought his last repose." 1 There were two places 
of this name, one in Arabia; but this is supposed to 

1 Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 173 ; Josephus, Antiquities, sv. 9, 4; Wars of the 
Jews, i. 21, 10. The death of Herod and his removal to this place, in An- 
tiquities, xvii. 8, 3 ; Wars of the Jews, i. 33, 9. 

23* 



362 



CAVE OF MACHPELAH. 



be the most celebrated and the one referred to above. 1 
About three miles southwest are the celebrated pools 
of Solomon, three in number, one above the other, and 
from which an aqueduct runs to Jerusalem. South a 
little west, and about thirteen miles distant, are the 
hills around Hebron; but the city itself we could not see. 
Here the tombs of the patriarchs and the cave of Mach- 
pelah, which Abraham bought from the children of Heth, 
are generally supposed to be situated. 2 The Mosque el 
Haram, which covers it, is said to be at least as sacred 
as that at Jerusalem called the Haram el Sherif. 
Hence, many have in vain attempted to enter it, though 
a few, however, have succeeded. The sacredness at- 
tributed to it by the Turks may have preserved at least 
the ashes of some of the early patriarchs. This will not 
appear so strange, when we consider that numberless re- 
mains of the ancient inhabitants of Egypt who were 
entombed before the departure of the Israelites are still 
preserved, and that the structures around and over these 
tombs are considered, on the best of evidence, to be as 
ancient as the period of any masonry found at Jeru- 
salem. 3 Before that period there is no reason to suppose 
that either the Israelites or the Hittites would have dis- 
honored the place, and therefore we may infer that this 
is not only the spot where the remains were originally 
placed, but that the remains themselves, in some degree, 
are yet to be found here. A Spanish traveller, Badia, 

1 Josephus, Wars of the Jews, i. 21, 10. This, he says, was two hundred 
stadia, the other sixty, from Jerusalem. 

2 Gen. xxiii. 17. 3 Bibl. Res., May 29. 



INTERIOR OF MOSQUE. 



363 



(Ali Bey,) 1103-1107, under the assumed character 
of a Mussulman, entered the cave, and has described it, 
briefly and in words in some respects at variance with the 
assertions of other visitors. 1 Sir Moses Montefiore is said 
also to have entered it. 2 All the sepulchres of the 
patriarchs are described as covered with magnificently- 
embossed carpets of green silk and gold thread, and 
those of their wives with embroidered red silk. The 
sepulchre of Abraham was covered with nine rich 
carpets, one over the other; and they are renewed from 
time to time by the Sultans of Constantinople. 3 The 
sepulchre and church have been spoken of as in exist- 
ence very early in the Christian era, and of course have 
been somewhat altered, but generally only in the way of 
repairs. 4 A notice in the latter half of the eighth century, 
in reference to the sepulchres of the patriarchs at this 
place, calls it the "Castle of Aframia;" and Dr. Eobin- 
son finds in this " corrupt reading" the first trace of the 
" Castle of St. Abraham," the name by which Hebron was 
generally known in the age of the Crusades, and in " al- 
lusion to which it is now called 'Ei Khulil/ 'the friend,' 
i.e., c Abraham.' " 5 The necessity of repairs at this mosque 

1 Van cle Velcle mentions a Jewish traveller who entered it, and was the 
unknown author of Jichus Ha'abot, a.d. 1537, (a Hebrew composition 
communicated by Carmoly in his Itineraires, p. 417, &c.) Van de Velde, 
vol. ii. p. 66. 

2 Idem. Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 436 ; Ali Bey, vol. ii. pp. 232, 233. 

3 Ali Bey's Travels, vol. ii. p. 253. 

4 See full account of early notices in Robinson's Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 438. 
5 Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 438. Dr. Stuart says "El Khalil, which signifies 'the 

friend' or 'the beloved,' from the remarkable title given to Abraham, viz. 
'the friend of God.'" Tent and Khan, p. 228. The name as given me by 
an intelligent Syrian was also El Khalil, not Khulil. 



364 



DESCRIPTION OF THE 



PLAN. 



occasioned the visit of two Mohammedan architects from 
Constantinople. These architects were entertained at 
Dr. Barclay's residence, in Jerusalem; and to him they 
presented what they asserted to be an exact drawing of 
the plan of the interior. Dr. Barclay afterwards kindly 
presented the drawing to me, with the written 
measurements and explanations of the architects. The 
plan appears to me to be genuine; and, as it is probably 
the first of the kind ever published, it is represented 
below, with the following explanation. 




Supposing, for the present, that the upper part of the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAN. 



365 



plan is north and that the rest of the cardinal points bear 
the same relation to the plan as to a map, we shall find in 
the southeast corner the entrance to the mosque. Be- 
tween that entrance, with circular steps, and the left-hand 
wall in the corner, is the praying-place for the Jews, where 
is a small hole in the wall, into which the Jews are per- 
mitted to thrust their heads at prayers. The large open 
space on the left is the former mutsellim's or judge's 
palace, — now in ruins. To the southwest of the mosque 
is a pool and eight baths adjoining. Near the northeast 
corner of this pool is another entrance, and more private 
one, leading into the mosque. Directly east of this 
entrance, and beyond two walls, is a retiring-room, or 
"jamey," 1 at the east of which is a recess containing the 
tomb of J oseph, lying east and west, North of this recess, 
beyond two walls, is the open court, on the west of which 
are the tombs of Jacob and his wife, the former south 
of the latter. On the east of the three pillars in this 
court are the tombs of Abraham and Sarah, the latter 
on the north. South of the tomb of Abraham is a 
semi-circular niche in the wall, which is a " mihrab," 2 or 
place for devotion. The wall south of this and imme- 
diately adjoining, and running east and west, is repre- 
sented by the architects as on the old wall about seven 
feet thick; and farther east are two projecting founda- 
tion-rocks, or, as they are called, "Jewish Rocks," the 



1 The name of a general gathering-room. The word has much the same 
signification in connection with the mosque as the word "body" has in 
connection with a church in the sentence " the body of the church." 

2 " Mihrab," a resort or retiring-place 



366 



TOMBS IN 



THE MOSQUE. 



signification of which I do not understand, but suppose 
that, in like manner as the rock beneath the dome of the 
Mosque of Omar at Jerusalem is sacred, from some tra- 
dition or association these are supposed to be sacred 
also. They are said to be from eighteen to twenty feet 
long and four feet thick, and are located in the wall 
running directly to the principal entrance on the right. 
North of this wall are the tombs of Isaac and Rebecca, 
the latter north of the former. West of the tomb of 
Rebecca are two platforms for prayer, — one with six 
little pillars as marked in the plan. Immediately adjoin- 
ing, and north of the latter, is a section of a pillar 
similar to one on the south, which is also west of the 
tomb of Isaac. At the northeast corner of the mosque 
is a rectangular cell, where, according to these archi- 
tects, is a pool of living water. A series of steps ascend- 
ing to a pulpit is near the east of the tomb of Isaac. Va- 
rious little praying-places, the doors, some open rooms, 
and stairways, will be understood without further de- 
scription. The measurements were given me in " drahs," 
which is the Constantinople cubit of thirty inches i 1 hence 
the east-end wall, being forty-five and three quarter 
drahs, is one hundred and fourteen and three-tenths feet 
in length, and the adjoining wall north, being seventy- 
eight and a half drahs, is one hundred and ninety-six and 
two-tenths feet. The walls outside are faced with pilas- 
ters, eight on each end-wall east and west, sixteen on 
the south, and twelve on the north, cross-sections of 



1 Dr. Barclay's "City of the Great King," p. 247. 



TOMBS 



OF THE PATRIARCHS. 



367 



which appear in the plan. The walls on the north are 
represented to be of exceeding thickness (nine feet) near 
the foundation. The tomb of Abraham is made twelve 
feet in length, and also that of Sarah, — which will serve 
as a scale for the rest. The tomb of Isaac, however, is 
not quite seven feet long. The whole mosque is sur- 
rounded by external walls of such a height that it is 
difficult to obtain a good view of the building. 

This, then, is over the cave of Machpelah. Beneath 
those tombs of Abraham and Sarah is said to be the 
cave, formerly approached by subterranean passages, 
now closed, and perhaps the very cave where were 
buried the patriarchs and their wives, as mentioned in 
Scripture. 1 I have used the points of the compass for 
convenience of reference; and it only remains to say that, 
having become familiar with the various names and 
positions, it must be remembered that the true course of 
that wall I have heretofore called the north wall runs 
nearly north-northwest: hence that wall would face 
easterly. This direction has been adopted to accom- 
modate the building to the side of the valley on which 
it is built. The present city of Hebron is in the valley 
adjoining the mosque ; but it is supposed that anciently 
it was farther removed from the present burial-places 
of the patriarchs. 2 

The first mention of this little town of Bethlehem is 
associated with a sorrow the cause of which is described in 

1 Gen. xxv. 9 ; xlix. 31, 32 ; 1. 13. 

2 See the references to Hebron in the Scriptures which I have included in 
the Geographical Appendix. 



368 



BETHLEHEM. 



the following words : — "And Rachel died, and was buried 
in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob 
set a pillar upon her grave : that is the pillar of Rachel's 
grave unto this day." 1 The name occurs (in Joshua xix. 
15) but once, where it does not apply to the Bethlehem of 
Judea, but to another in Zebulon, the tribe eighty miles 
north of the place. 2 Here, somewhere, lies the body of 
Ibzan, who judged Israel 3 seven years, and had thirty 
sons and as many daughters; and about twenty years 
after, a young man, a native of Bethlehem, wandering 
about for a home, accidentally came upon a certain Micah 
of Mount Ephraim, a very doubtful character, who, find- 
ing that the youthful wanderer was a Levite, took him 
into his family to preside over his little temple and his 
gods. 4 Nearly two hundred years before this young 
Levite left his home, Elimelech, and Naomi his wife, 
emigrated eastward to Moab to escape the famine in 
Bethlehem. After some years, Bethlehem became in 
truth, as it was in the signification of its name, the 
"house of bread;" and then happened an occasion for 
that beautiful exhibition of Ruth's love for her desolate 
mother-in-law described so tenderly in the book bearing 
her name. According to the commonly-accepted chro- 
nology, exactly two hundred and fifty years after the 



1 Gen. xxxv. 19, 20. 

2 The marginal references are at fault in this passage, as therein reference 
is made to Bethlehem of Judea to illustrate that Bethlehem which evidently 
has no connection with Judea. There is a Beit Lahm twelve miles west 
of Mt. Tabor and in the tribe of Zebulon, which may be the Bethlehem of 
Joshua xix. 15; and I have accordingly noted it as such on the map. 

3 Judges xii. 8. * Judges xvii. 1. 



david's early life. 



369 



return of Naomi, there was a great feast given in the vil- 
lage. It was on the occasion of a visit from the prophet 
Samuel that the inhabitants were called to attend a 
sacrifice and partake of the feast which generally fol- 
lowed, and to which Jesse — the grandson of Ruth, the 
daughter-in-law of Naomi — and his sons were invited. 
One was absent, — the youngest son, whose company was 
so little valued by the parent that he was not even in- 
vited to the feast until called for specially by the pro- 
phet. That son was David, the future king; and 
doubtless at the time of the prophet he was a youth re- 
markable for his musical talent. At this time David 
was in the fields not far off, attending to the flocks. 
From the Scripture reference, he was a lad of attractive 
appearance, " ruddy, withal, of a beautiful countenance, 
and goodly to look to." 1 It is probable the prophet 
anointed him privately; for the commission he had 
from God did not require the act to be publicly per- 
formed, and circumstances made publicity inexpedient, 
From this moment, it seems, a mysterious power sur- 
rounded the lad, which others felt; for when, some time 
after this feast, Saul wanted a player on the harp, one 
of his servants not only described young David's pru- 
dence and ardor, but also made use of a sentence indi- 
cating (according to the custom of the land) that an 
unusual power, a divine influence, attended him : — " The 
Lord is with him." 2 Next to the Saviour, David is the 
most interesting character historically connected with 
Bethlehem. Perhaps the fact that Jesse did not seem to 



1 1 Samuel xvi. 12. 



2 1 Samuel xvi. 18. 

24 



370 



ORPHEUS AND DAVID. 



prize David's beautiful appearance was an evidence that 
the youth generally were comely; and this has already 
been used by one writer in an argument in favor of the 
handsome appearance of the young men of Bethlehem at 
that day. The interests of Bethlehem and its fields are 
heightened when associated with recollections of the early 
life and accomplishments of David. Though a shepherd- 
boy, " taken from the sheepfold," 1 not only is his name 
prominent in Biblical history, but the influences of his 
character and times are supposed by many of the learned 
to have extended to Greece and to have moulded some 
characters of its mythology.' 2 His musical talent, 

1 Psalm lxxviii. 70. 

2 It appears, from Sir Isaac Newton's chronology, that Homer flourished 
about one hundred and fifty years after David. From another author it seems 
that some Phoenicians fled from Zidon and from David, under Cadmus, 
Phoenix, &c, and carried letters, music, and poetry into Greece. If so, they 
undoubtedly knew the character of David, and probably left some tradition of 
him to their descendants. There is, at any rate, a remarkable coincidence 
between the Greek history of that mythic character Orpheus and the life of 
the Psalmist David. Aristotle 1 thinks there never was such a person as 
Orpheus, and, hence, that he represented some other character. Vossius is 
of the same opinion, and says the word means a wise or learned man, 
and is Phoenician. He was the most skilful on the harp: so was David. 
Photius says he was a king: so was David. The general notion has been 
that he was a Thracian ; but Pausanias says 2 that the ancient Greek pictures 
represented him in a Greek dress, and that he had nothing Thracian about 
him, and, in another place, 3 that an Egyptian, whose name is not given, 
declared he was an Egyptian. And the fact that Orpheus was represented 
as wearing the tiara on his head shows that he was an Asiatic prince. 4 
Tiara is probably of Hebrew origin, and in the Scriptures it will be 
found to signify just such a crown as David 5 took from the Ammonite 
king's head, n^llDJ/' 't ara > an d placed on his own at one of the most 



l Cicero, de Nat. Deor. lib. 1, g 38, ed. Davis. 2 Phocian. lib. 19, c. 30. 

3 In Eliacis. lib. 6. c. 20. 

*Philostratus, in Vita Apollonii, lib. i, c. 25. Gronovius. in bis Roma Subterranea, finds some 
very ancient medals on wbieb be is represented witb tbe tiara. 5 Psalm xii. 30. 



MUSICAL REMEDIES. 



371 



from many intimations, must have been more remark- 
able than we have been accustomed to attribute to one 
whose character was so pre-eminent in other respects. 
This talent first brought him to the palace of Saul. 
From the Scriptures, David seems to have remained at 
court only as long as his music was needed to calm 
Saul's nerves and restore him to his "right mind," — when 
he appeared no longer to desire David's presence. This 
use of David's skill in music is not so singular as some 
may suppose; for music as a remedy was known and 
used by many with success since the time of Saul. 
Pythagoras, 550 B.C., used to compose his spirits with 
the music of a harp ;* and even madness was said to 
be cured by the harmony of verse in the time of 
Xenocrates, who practised it successfully himself, B.C. 
406. 2 And, still later, Charles IX. was wont to have 
his sleep disturbed by nightly horrors, and singing-boys 

celebrated battles during his reign with the nations beyond the Jordan. 1 
The tradition of the Arabs is that stones and birds were dedicated to him, 2 
but he could not reclaim the Arabs. So Orpheus made the rocks, woods, 
and animals follow him, but could not civilize the Thracians. Orpheus 
charmed Pluto, the king of the infernal regions; and thereby obtained his 
wife. David pleased Saul, whose name in Hebrew, when pointed differently, 
(though radically the same,) means king of the infernal regions, ^7^1^- 1^'*' 
and he too detained David's wife and afterward gave her to him. Other paral- 
lelisms may be found. See Hist. Account of David, 2 vols., London, 1759. 

1 " Pythagoras perturbationes animi lyra componebat." Seneca, de Ira, 
lib. iii. cap 9. 

2 Alexander ab Alexandre, Gemal. lib. ii. cap. 17. 

1 Here I may be permitted to say this crown was valued at (not " weighed," as in the English trans- 
lation) a talent of gold. The weight, according to Dr. Prideaux and Dr. Adam Clarke, wonld have 
been eighteen hundred ounces Troy, (one hundred and fifty pounds!) but "the value with the 
jewels" (see the text) would have been about £7000,— nearly $35,000. The talent (according to 
Drs. Prideaux and Clarke) in gold, being twenty-two carats fine, was eighteen hundred time? 
78.1394s., (or, £3 18s. lfd. sterling, or $18.91 cts. .093 fraction, the pound sterling being rated at 
$4.84,) equal to £7082, or, $34039.67 cts.. the value of the crown and jewels. Great as this seems, 
it is not comparable with the value of the diamonds in the crown of England at present in the 
Tower of London. 2 Herbelotte, Biblioth. Orient. 



372 



TOMB OF RACHEL. 



were called into his room, who sang him to rest. 1 The 
spirit which seized upon Saul was certainly mysterious. 
His physicians felt incapable of driving it off by ordinary 
means, and therefore they recommended music. Josephus 
says that he became like a demoniac : the physicians ad- 
vised him to get a man to "stand over his head" as he lay 
in bed, and play and sing to him. 2 And this probably ex- 
plains the words, which in the original read, " David [was] 
going and returning from above Saul to feed his father's 
sheep at Bethlehem." 3 These hills, therefore, often 
echoed to the wonderful music of David, the unas- 
suming, unappreciated boy, but in the hidden purpose 
of God the future monarch of Israel. Yet what de- 
sertion, disgrace, agony, and exile he experienced 
before established upon the throne ! 

After leaving the village, we arrived at Rachel's 
tomb, in about half an hour's walk from the convent. 
It is simply an oblong building, with a dome at one 
end, and a broad arch opening near the other, but on 
the side. Entering this, we pass through a door into 
another arched part which is under the dome. There 
we met nine Jews reading and responding whilst they 
sat around a mass of plastered stone in the centre of the 
room, about nine feet high and four feet in diameter. The 
length of the building is fifty-four feet, by twenty-two for 
the w T idth, and contains numerous Hebrew inscriptions. 

The air is rather chilly ; 4 and we ride on and enter Jeru- 
salem, and make preparations for a survey of the walls. 

1 So Thuanus, torn. iii. Buckley's edition, lib. lvii. sect. 19. 

2 Jos., Antiq. lib. vi. chap. 8, 2. 3 1 Sam. xvii. 15. 
4 54° at thirty minutes past eleven. 



TRAITS IN BEDOUIN CHARACTER. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

VISIT TO DEAD SEA — PLAIN OF JERICHO. 

Some days after our arrival, we determined on a visit 
to the Jordan. We were informed that two tribes were 
exhibiting their enmity by skirmishing, and that, if we 
intended to stay any length of time or visit the Dead 
Sea, we had better go prepared. A messenger was des- 
patched to a sheik, who, with his men, was hired to accom- 
pany us to the Sea. He promised to be at the rendezvous, 
on the east of Mt. Olives, at nine o'clock the following 
morning, but refused to come within the city, — as is gene- 
rally the case with the Arabs, who have, from various 
causes, a fear and a dislike for stone walls. This antipathy 
to settlement has existed among them from the time 
of Herodotus, if not from a period long before. 1 Pass- 

1 There something singularly unchangeable in the habits of the 
Bedouins and of the class of Arabs called " Fellahin," who are the inhabit- 
ants of houses and in this respect principally distinguished from the 
Bedouin. It is generally supposed that abstinence from wine among 
the Arabs was first suggested by the rule of Mohammed; but a Greek 
historian in the fourth century says it was " a law amongst them neither 
to sow, plant, build houses, nor drink wine; and he who was discovered 
acting in violation of the law was sure to die for it." (Diod. Siculus, b. xix. 
cap. 6.) The description of them then would be equally correct in almost 
every particular now: they are the same in spirit now as they were when 
the angel foretold their history to Hagar nearly four thousand years earlier 
in their existence. 



374 



AN AMBUSH OF FRIENDS. 



ing out of the gate of St. Stephen on the east of the 
city, we descend into the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and, 
at a distance of two hundred and fifty yards, reach the 
entrance of the tomb or church of the Virgin Mary. 
It is a small building, half buried in the valley. There 
are forty-seven steps, each of seven inches, descending 
to the floor of a room like the nave of a church, and 
an elevated recess on the right appears like the extension 
of a transept. The room is hung with lamps ; and, at the 
utmost extremity of the nave, there is an ascent which 
is seen immediately after our descexit. Here is the 
reputed tomb of the Virgin. Some priests were chanting, 
and, not discovering much to interest us, we soon as- 
cended, and found Hanna outside enjoying his narghileh. 

Winding around the southern slope of Mt. Olives, 
we found the Arabs one by one coming out suddenly 
from rock, crevice, and corner, until the whole troop, true 
to their word, were assembled, with their brass-banded, 
long-barrelled, unwieldy guns and their swords in their 
sashes. The sheik was first to be seen; and the rest ap- 
peared so quickly as to suggest to my thoughts that just as 
quickly might our company be surprised by a band appear- 
ing from ambush against us. These are the wandering, 
half-gentlemanly, half-barbarous, good-natured Bedouins, 
who form a lazy compound of the strangest traits that 
ever economist, missionary, or traveller had to deal with. 
They are not the fierce, untamable Bedouins of the desert, 
but a class between them and the every-day inhabitant 
and tiller of the soil found in the hamlets and towns. 
The latter are seen everywhere, and at all times, and 



FELLAHIX POPULATION. 



375 



are the respectable lazzaroni of Palestine. Their chief end 
of life is to live with the smallest imaginable exertion 
beyond what a changing, restless life requires. They oc- 
cupy a position between the roving, untamed outlaws 
of Arabian society — the Bedouins of the desert — on the 
one hand, and the Turkish rulers of the land, whom we 
have described, on the other. Even these are divided into 
classes also, while they themselves are a class peculiar to 
the land. They are the residents of the villages, of the 
towns, of houses, but not of the country nor of tents. 
Though not the rulers of the land, save by sufferance, 
they nevertheless constitute the population, all other 
classes being the incidental, the minority of that mass of 
which they only may be called the body. Their position in 
the empire may be significantly pictured in their appear- 
ance when happiest, — their habits, their costume, their 
position, their ornaments and luxuries, being mixed, 
or, so to speak, in pieces, borrowed from all around. 
Living in a condition between the luxury and haughti- 
ness of the highest and the lawlessness and rags of the 
lowest, they exhibit a perfect indifference to any thing in 
particular, with an equal amount of complacency in every 
thing that happens. The Arab of this class is never hap- 
pier than when, lazily squatting upon his little donkey, 
he mingles in some wandering company as guide or com- 
panion, with an unwieldy matchlock across his lap, 
the thunder of which has scared no bird for many 
generations, and on trial may prove as harmless as his 
pipe, without which he never travels, and which, never 
formed of the fragile reed, but of some straight thick 



370 



USE OF THE SASH. 




ARAB ON DONKEY. 



branch bored geometrically true, may stand the smoke 
and use of ten and sometimes eighteen years without re- 
newal. Girt about the loins with his sash, which, when 
roused to exertion, he binds around him with a tightness 
regulated by the haste of the journey to be undertaken, 
and with a copious amount of cloth in the make of his 
garment in front, which almost universally forms the 
grand storehouse of an Oriental traveller, part Greek 
in the rest of his dress, part Arab, and part Be- 
douin, without two thoughts for the future on his face, 
and less in his heart, he moves because his donkey 



BETHANY. 



377 



moves, and complacently meditates, with his animal, 
on nothing. 

The class under whose protection we are now travel- 
ling is yet another link between that we have just 
described and the actual Bedouin of the desert, that 
desert-savage whose character resembles most that of the 
tameless hyena, and who seldom or never comes into 
the more civilized portions of the country. 

We have agreed to pay the sheik two hundred and fifty 
piastres for the benefit of his protection to the Jordan and 
the Dead Sea : thence we are to obtain other guides. The 
soil appears flinty and gray, and the rock of Mt. Olives is 
the soft yellow limestone so frequently found throughout 
the land. J ust south of the mount is a road partly hewn in 
the rock, and evidently ancient. Here, doubtless, the Sa- 
viour trod in his journeys from Bethany to Jerusalem, as 
it is the old highway by the former place, which we passed 
on our left in twenty minutes after leaving the tomb of 
the Virgin. Bethany is a poor, straggling village, 
with a few time-worn stones marking the site of some 
ancient buildings. We shall visit it on our return. We 
pass into a long valley, at the head of which is the 
fountain Ain el Haud, (pronounced Hor by our Arabs,) 
the ancient En Shemesh, it is supposed, and also the 
" Fountain of the Apostles," — where it is said the 
apostles often stopped to rest themselves on the 
way to Jericho. Not far off there appear to be small 
strata of coarse reddish clay, exhibiting but little sand 
under the microscope ; and a short distance back the 
wady seemed to divide between a white soil on the 



378 



CALL OF THE SHEPHERDS. 



left and a red soil on the right. As usual, we have set 
our Arabs scouting around in search of plants and 
rocks; and one has brought me a sprig of wild thyme, 
precisely like that which we sometimes find in our gar- 
dens. At a quarter before twelve a singular rock- 
formation appears on the left, several hundred feet, 
much like huge waves, formed in the soft and chalky 
limestone of the hill-side, running parallel with the 
valley-bed, and containing flint of a brown color. 

Now we overtake some flocks of sheep belonging to the 
Bedouins, several companies of which are in the valley ; 
and they have not been far in advance of us for an hour 
or longer, during which time parts of their number have 
turned off into lateral valleys. It is very interesting to see 
how attached the sheep are to the shepherd, and how 
well his voice is known. This fact we have noticed 
throughout the land ; and how often has the Scripture 
come to my mind, " My sheep know my voice !" for the 
sheep are never driven here, but always follow the 
shepherd, who speaks to them as a parent would to a 
child. Very frequently the flocks are mingled so that 
it would seem impossible to separate them ; but at the 
springs, where this often occurs, the Bedouin shep- 
herd has simply to utter a cry and walk off from the 
crowd, when he is immediately followed by that part 
which is his own. Some of his flock have strayed among 
others at a distance, and in their haste to follow oft- 
times run under a sheep of another flock, raising it 
quite off the ground, and sometimes leaping over the 
backs of others. They have long, flat ears, and regular 



UNNAMED RUINS. 



379 



"Roman no»es," if there ever was one. At ten minutes 
after twelve, we pass, on our left, the ruins of a building 
fifty paces long, with arches, massive and with every sign 
of an ancient construction, though it is simply called a 
ruined khan. For some time we have been passing over 
occasional fragments of a Roman road, generally nine 
feet wide ; and not long since, after coming to unusual ver- 
dure on some hills, I picked up some interesting crystals 
of carbonate of lime, which appear to be doubly refractive ; 
then an argillaceous specimen similar to slate; and far- 
ther on a piece of hornblende. The thermometer indi- 
cates 66° at twelve o'clock ; and at that time we pass 
another wall, perhaps sixty feet in length, and a few 
feet in height, of the history of which no one seems to 
know any thing. How frequently is this the case in 
this land ! How many ruins and walls which required 
months and years to erect now remain without a name 
or history ! About two o'clock we obtain a view of the 
Dead Sea, and soon pass an arch-mouthed cavern, similar 
to those which are frequently met with. Looking east- 
ward, there is a singular peak, which runs up promi- 
nently distinct from the whole range across the river 
Jordan, which, although we are very much above the 
valley, cannot be seen, and is only traceable by means 
of the growth near its banks. From that peak or point 
the whole land to Mt. Olives west must be plainly seen, 
and perhaps to Neby Samwil, and some distance up the 
Jordan. It is evidently the most prominent point in 
the range of Abarim. Its appearance is presented in 
the following view, in which we can also see the whole 



380 PROBABLE MOUNT PISGAH. 

country of the plain of Jericho, and the course of the 
Jordan, indicated, as we have already said, by the 
growth on its banks. 




There is little doubt that if that highest knob 
is not the Nebo (the bud) or Pisgah (the point) 1 of 
Abarim, it is nevertheless the highest point of land in 
many miles. No mountain appears so high above the 
horizon as that ; and hence, according to the rules of 
perspective, it must be higher than the point on which 
we stand. It is plainly visible from the Mt. of Olives. 
The road leads around the group of figures in the cut, 
where a slight view of the Dead Sea is had on 
the right. Over the head of the middle figure in the 
group may be seen Mt. Pisgah, the general top being 



Deut. xxxiv. 1. 



CAVERNOUS VALLEYS. 



381 



called Nebo, and the range, which is somewhat more 
uniform than in the cut, is Abarim. 

Our course is now eastward, and about four miles 
more of this gradual descent must bring us upon the 
plain of the Jordan. On our left the little stony water- 
course which has kept us company for an hour has 
gradually become a dark and broken ravine. The moun- 
tain-crags are wilder and the ravine deeper, and some 
of the bluffs drop down suddenly at right angles into 
deep and rocky rents, and high up on our right are 
overhanging ridges, to the flanks of which our little road 
clings, as if hewn out of its side, after the manner of 
the Alpine road at the Simplon Pass. The whole region 
here is desolate and strangely lonesome, offering fit haunts 
for robbers, of whom numbers might be concealed within 
pistol-shot of a caravan, such is the cavern-like recesses 
in the sides of the ravine over which we are now passing. 
I have thought that the word "fell" — in the sentence 
" fell 1 among thieves" — which occurs in the story of the 
good Samaritan (Luke x.) was most appropriately the 
word to be used in describing the sudden robbery which 
these haunts would permit. The whole parable is illus- 
trative of just such assaults as have often happened in 
later times and were frequent before the times of the Sa- 

1 irepmireaev, caught as in a net, Hederico, Lex. Grsec, "ut in rete" A 
slight error occurs in the English version of this parable, wherein the word 
" man" is in italics, indicating the absence of the corresponding word in the 
Greek ; whereas there are no variations from the accepted text, in which the 
word avdpoirog occurs. This infelicity is met with in the Oxford and Lon- 
don type, and probably from this source it has been copied into the edi- 
tions of the American Bible Society. 



3S2 



ARABS STRIPPING TRAVELLERS. 



viour, and hence sufficiently familiar to have given occa- 
sion for the allusion in the parable. The habit of stripping 
travellers is a part of the Arab procedure at the present 
day ; and in this they seem to follow a mere propensity 
of their thievish ancestors, for the Frank dresses are 
anything but pleasant or allowable costume to an Arab. 
From the motley appearance of the dresses of some 
little Bedouin children north of the Lake of Tiberias, 
I have since thought that very probably the fragments 
of the stolen wardrobe of some unfortunate traveller 
had found their last resting-place upon the persons of 
these little urchins, after having been torn into the latest 
Bedouin fashion. In 1811, Burckhardt, in a letter to 
Dr. E. D. Clarke concerning his travels, speaks of being 
prevented from making further investigations; -'for the 
rascals killed my camel, and a party of Arabs stripped 
me literally to the skin." 1 This will bring to mind 
the treatment to which a party of gentlemen, with a 
lady, were subjected north of this place, mentioned 
in a previous chapter. Such a course is by no means 
unusual; and a traveller who expects to diverge from 
the usual route had better furnish himself accordingly. 
The early attacks by robbers in these dark mountain- 
gorges are said to have given rise to the order of 
Knights Templars. 2 Though the more correct state- 
ment may be found in an English history of this order 



1 Life of E. D. Clarke, p. 592, 4. London. 

2 Wilkes's Hist, of the Order of the Temple, p. 9 : and in Milman's Latin 
Christianity, p. 286, quoted by Stanley, p. 312, as in 1118, being one year 
too early. See Fuller, Hist. Holy War. 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. 



383 



which records that, in "a.d. 1119, Hugh de Paganes and 
Godfrey 1 de St. Amor, with seven gentlemen, out of de- 
votion, went to the Holy Land," and, on inquiry as to 
how their valor could best be exhibited, were informed 
that in the town of Zaff there resided many thieves, who 
used to rob the pilgrims that resorted to the Holy 
Sepulchre, and they resolved to make the passage more 
free by dispersing these robbers ; " and for their encour- 
agement" the king gave them lodgings in his palace, 
adjoining Solomon's Temple, whence they were called 
Knights Templars. 2 Where this Zaff was, I am un- 
able to say, unless it is the same as Zif, which is twenty 
miles south of Jerusalem, and on a mountain-ridge 
now covered with ruins, indicating that the place 
has been inhabited since the conquest by the Mo- 
hammedans. 3 It is, however, certain that the first 
works of this order were in defence of pilgrims from 
" thieves and robbers ;" and, as far back as the twelfth 
century, so important were their services considered that 
they became exceedingly wealthy, having no less than 
sixteen thousand lordships in Europe, 4 though not very 
many years before they entered Palestine only nine in 
number. 



1 Fuller spells " Paganis and Ganfred ;" but since the name, as spelled 
above, is repeated, he is probably incorrect. Holy War, bk. ii. ch. 16 

2 Hugh Clark, Hist, of Knighthood, vol. ii. p. 53, London, 1784. 

3 Dr. Robinson, Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 191, says Zif has the appearance of 
having been inhabited long after the Mohammedan conquest, but adds 
that from the time of Jerome to the present there is no trace of the name 
in history. 

4 Dr. Heylin, Clark's Hist, of Knighthood, vol. ii. p. 55. 



384 



ROBBERS OF THE CHERITH. 



The little water-course by the side of which we have 
been passing decreases in depth very perceptibly at a part 
not far distant from where we leave the mountain-passes 
and enter upon the plain of the Jordan. It bears the name 
of Wady Kelt from the juncture of the Wady Fuwar, 
which comes down from the direction of Michmash, on 
the west, and the Wady Farah, (the mouse,) which comes 
from the southwest and meets Wady Fuwar at the point 
about three miles west of us, and eight miles north- 
east by east of Jerusalem. 1 This Wady Kelt of the 
Arabs is probably the valley of the brook Cherith, 
which runs to the Jordan in an eastward course, open- 
ing the broadest chasm in the mountains for a great 
distance north or south. In its dark and caverned sides 
many have been concealed, from the time that the spies 
sent by Joshua "abode" in these mountains, 2 and Elijah 
" hid himself" by the brook Cherith and drank of 
its waters, 8 to the present. Only two years since, a 
lady, lagging behind her party but a short distance, was 
suddenly surprised by two Bedouins lurking within a 
few feet of her in a cavern, who immediately attempted 
to lead her horse into their retreat. Notwithstanding 
her screams, she was not heard by her companions, and 
was rescued by a gentleman of the same party, who had 
fortunately remained behind and on whose approach 
the thieves immediately fled. 4 

Of more than seventy valleys over which we have 



1 Reckoning from the Casa Nuova. 2 Josh. ii. 22. 

3 1 Kings xvii. 3. 4 Bonar's Land of Promise, p. 207. 



THE BROOK CHERITH. 



385 



passed, I can remember no one better adapted to 
the purposes of concealment than this valley of the 
Kelt on the way to Jericho. It is in full view of the 
green borders of the Jordan and of the surrounding 
plain. The valley flanks open widely from this spot 
toward the plain. 

Here we may be permitted to stop a few minutes 
to examine into our reasons for the identification 
of Wady Kelt with the brook of Elijah, Cherith. 
There is some variance of opinion, but it may be 
summed up very briefly and our position be ascer- 
tained. De Saulcy has no doubt of the identity, 
but expresses himself so summarily as to leave 
his readers in greater doubt than before. 1 Stanley 
refers to two other claimants to the honor of being 
the Cherith, — one on the east of the Jordan, the other 
on the west, — and remarks that if "before," in 1 
Kings xviii. 3, retains its usual signification of " east," 
the most probable locality of the Cherith is in the 
Wady Alias, now "Wady Yabes, forty miles northeast of 
our present position, south of Mahanaim and opposite 
Bethshean, about eighteen miles east of the Jordan, and 
fifty miles north of Jericho. 2 But, if the word " before" 
can be taken in the sense of " towards," then the choice 
may still be between the Wady Kelt and the Ain 
Fasael, at some distance north of the Wady Kelt, 
(fifteen miles.) 3 Bonar, adopting what Stanley calls the 
"usual signification" of the word "before," locates it 

1 De Saulcy, vol. ii. ch. 1, p. 26. 2 Irby and Mangles, p. 305 ; Schwarz, 51. 
3 Stanley: Sinai and Palestine, London, 1856, p. 303, note. 



386 



AH A B. 



east of the Jordan, and places much stress on the repe- 
tition of "before" 1 as an additional evidence that it was 
east of the Jordan. The passage reads thus: — 

And the word of the Lord came unto him, saying, Get thee hence, and 
turn thee eastward, and hide thyself by the brook Cherith that is before 
Jordan. And it shall be, that thou shalt drink of the brook; and I have 
commanded the ravens to feed thee there. So he went, and did accord- 
ing unto the word of the Lord : for he went and dwelt by the brook Cherith, 
that is before Jordan. And the ravens brought him bread and flesh in 
the morning, and bread and flesh in the evening ; and he drank of the brook. 
And it came to pass, after a while, that the brook dried up, because there 
had been no rain in the land. 2 

Ahab had dishonored God by idolatry, and had done 
more to provoke the Lord God of Israel to anger than all 
his predecessors on the throne of Israel; and much of 
his sinning was done in Samaria, in a temple built to 
Baal. This is stated in the verses immediately pre- 
ceding the passage just quoted. And Elijah is com- 
missioned to let Ahab know that the punishment of 
famine was immediately to come upon the land; and as 
this announcement is in immediate connection with the 
statement of Ahab's provocation at Samaria, it is rea- 
sonable to suppose that the prophet was in that region 
at the time the word came to him "to turn eastward 
and hide himself by the brook Cherith that is before 
Jordan.'' The word " before" occurs in the original in 
a form almost precisely similar to the French "en face," 
being composed of two words, — the one, " al," signifying 
"upon," and the other, "pene," "face;" and in pre- 
cisely this form it occurs one hundred and ten times in 



1 \?P'^- 



2 1 Kings xvii. 2-8. 



VARIOUS MEANINGS OF "BEFORE." 387 



the Old Testament. In a great number of cases it is 
translated correctly "upon the face/' as in the second 
verse of the first chapter of Genesis, — "upon the face" of 
the waters. This is the literal meaning. In this sense 
it occurs in a majority of the one hundred and ten 
times. Again, it is translated " toward," as in Gen. xviii., 
when the angel, on parting from Abraham, looked 
toward Sodom, (16th v.,) and in Gen. xix. 19, — "toward 
Sodom and Gomorrah, and toward all the land of the 
plain," — in which cases it could not signify eastward of 
those places. But, more definitely, in Levit. xiv. 7 it is 
translated " into," where a bird was let loose (al pene) 
into the field. Again, in Levit. xvi. 14, it is said, 
sprinkle it with his finger "upon" the mercy-seat east- 
ward; where the Hebrew words are translated "upon," 
and the direction "eastward" accompanies them, show- 
ing that the words translated "upon" do not determine 
the direction; hence the direction itself is given. Let 
me refer to Josh. xv. 8. Speaking of the border 
of Judah, near Jerusalem, the passage reads, "it 
went up to the top of the mount that lietli 'before' 
[al pene] the valley of Hinnom westward;" here, "be- 
fore" signifies to the westward. Again, Josh, xviii. 14 : 
of the border of Benjamin it is said that it " ran south- 
ward from the hill that lieth £ before' Beth-horon 
southward:" here "before" signifies to the southward. 
Two verses after, a mountain is spoken of that lay 
"before" the valley of the son of Hinnom, and " which 
is in the valley of the giants on the north," — where 
"'before" may mean north. Therefore, while the 



388 



"BEFORE JORDAN." 



words may and do sometimes signify eastward, "to- 
ward the sunrising," (Numb. xxi. 11,) this may be only 
because the object described as "before" was in the 
east, as in the case of the "high place" of an idol on 
the hill that is "before" Jerusalem builded by Solo- 
mon, (1 Kings xi. 7,) and not because the words in 
themselves signified eastward. 

What is the meaning, therefore, in the passage refer- 
ring to Elijah? The most appropriate meaning is 
"upon," or "in full view of," whether that view 
be had from east, south, west, or north. This is 
the meaning in Deut. xxxii. 49, "Get thee into 
this mount Abarim, unto mount Nebo, which is 
in the land of Moab, that is 'over against' 
J ericho and behold the land of Canaan ;" and again, 
the same words are admirably translated "in sight 
of," Numb. iii. 4, — " in sight of Aaron." In the sixty- 
eight passages 2 in which this word "before" occurs, 
the most unusual signification would be that which 
would render " before Jordan" on the east of the river. 
"Get thee hence, and turn thee eastward, and hide 
thyself by the brook Cherith that is before [meaning 
upon, in sight of] the Jordan." So he went and dwelt 
by the brook Cherith that is before (upon) the Jordan. 

Dr. Bonar asks what idea is conveyed in the phrase 
"before the Nile." We answer, the same idea that would 
be conveyed should he say that " Richmond is upon the 

1 When it might very properly be translated "before;" for it was in "the 
face," or meeting of the Jordan, and "before" they crossed on entering the 
land. 

2 That is, sixty-eight before that in the passage under consideration. 



VARIOUS BROOKS OF THE COUNTRY. 389 

Thames/' or that " Philadelphia is upon or in sight of 
the Delaware." No objection can be had to this under- 
standing of the phrase on the ground that such a dis- 
tinction was unnecessary, all the brooks being upon the 
Jordan ; for no prophet roamed over a larger compass of 
land than Elijah. In this chapter we read of his obedience 
to an order which sent him from Cherith to Zarephath, 
on the sea- coast, more than one hundred and ten miles 
air-line north of Wady Kelt, where the valleys and 
brooks turned toward the Mediterranean. There the 
brooks were "before" the Mediterranean. The next 
order sends him to Horeb, two hundred and thirty 
miles south of Wady Kelt, where the brooks are " be- 
fore" the Eed Sea ; and again, in the same chapter/ we 
read that he is sent to the wilderness of Damascus, 
about three hundred and thirty-five miles northeast of 
his last resting-place, and where the brooks find their 
way into the lakes east of Damascus. In a country, 
therefore, where we find that some of the brooks and 
valleys run into and look upon the Lake of Meroin, 
north of Tiberias, and others into the Lake of Tiberias 
itself, and others again belong to the Dead Sea or to 
the Mediterranean, we can see nothing superfluous in 
designating the brook Cherith as belonging to the 
Jordan. The word Cherith signifies "separation," or 
"division/' and this name is applicable to the deep cuts 
made in these hills by the torrent Kelt, which has united 
the numerous water-courses northeast of J erusalem, and 



1 Kings xix. 8. 



390 



MEANING OF THE PASSAGE. 



has come down cutting its way through to the Jordan. 
And thus I am disposed to understand the word of the 
Lord to his servant after he had aroused Ahab's anger 
by the announcement of the coming drought: — -"Get 
thee away from Ahab by turning eastward, and hide 
yourself amid the ravines and caverns of the brook 
Cherith which is upon the Jordan." 



Elijah's concealment. 



391 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

ON THE PLAIN OF JERICHO. 

Here on the plain around Jericho were associations 
which were pleasant to the prophet, not only in its past 
history, but in its present inhabitants. When, with 
Elisha, he went on that mysterious walk from Gilgal 
to Bethel, on the way to the Jordan, when "the Lord 
would take up Elijah into heaven hy a whirlwind" 1 that 
part of the Jordan just in front of us, as we look down 
upon its banks in the last view, p. 380, was the place 
chosen, where by a miraculous power he divided its 
waters, and, with Elisha alone, passed over and then dis- 
appeared from before his eyes in the ridge of mountains 
just beyond the river east of us. Besides, here dwelt the 
sons of the prophets at a period after the date of Elijah's 
concealment in these gorges; and when, still later, he 
took that strange journey across the river to his chariot 
of fire, fifty of them, who resided at Jericho, "went 
and stood to view afar off" 2 a scene of which they had 
some premonitions. 3 As to the concealment of Elijah 
in a valley so near to his friends and those who honored 
him, the fact that his own friends were ignorant of his 
presence in the region would more effectually have 

1 2 Kings ii. 1. 2 2 Kings ii. 7. 3 2 Kings ii. 5. 



392 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE CARDINAL POINTS. 



caused Ahab's messengers to despair of finding him than 
would concealment in the caverns. 1 

Some have supposed that the Wady Kelt, was a con- 
stant stream, and would not answer the description 
of the passage, " for the brook dried up." But it must 
be remembered that the context intimates it would be a 
brook that would not dry up easily until some time 
after "there had been no rain in the land;' and such 
indeed is the character of the stream. So, then, of the 
three " claimants for the honor of Cherith," the one east 
of Jordan has no determinate claims, either as based 
upon the idea conveyed by the word " before" or that of 
" eastward," 2 as the latter would signify simply a gene- 

1 According to Obadiah's account, Ahab sent abroad for Elijah and made 
the kingdoms and nations swear they had not met with him. 1 Kings 
xviii. 10. 

2 The words used for direction are definitely and beautifully expressed in 
the Hebrew. The four cardinal compass-points are all expressed in order in 
1 Chron. ix. 24: PHf/D* (misrah,) east; (yammah,) west; n^^JV, 

T : T T T T 

(tzaphonah,) north; (negbah,) south. These are the definite 

t : v 

directions, and had in Palestine what might have been called provincial 
descriptions, i.e. partly peculiar to the situation of the country itself. 
" Misrah," east, because the word signified " from the rising/' — namely, of 
the sun. "Yammah," " seaward ;" hence, west, toward the Mediterranean. 
" Tzaphonah/' " obscurity," north ; I suppose in allusion to the geo- 
graphical obscurity in which the north was involved, though it may have 
reference to the fact of the declination of the sun, or its presence in the 
southern celestial hemisphere, leaving the north in darkness. "Negbah," 
"dry," as when "parched;" hence south. (Accordingly, the Chaldee "to 
dry" one's hands with a towel, in the Talmud, has this form.) These were 
the words used to denote the primary and definite points, and had reference 
to some characteristic in the direction spoken of. But not so definite were the 
terms "eastward," "westward," "southward," "northward." " Eastward," 
nOnp' (kedhmah,) is used, for instance, in 1 Kings vii. 39, evidently in 

t : |.. 

the sense of southeast. "He set tlie sea on the rigid side of the liovse eastward 
over against the south," i.e. an eastward that allowed a modification south- 
ward. In Numbers xxxiv. 3, " The outmost coast of the salt sea eastward ;" 



ANOTHER CHERITH. 



393 



ral direction, and not due east, which is the supposed 
direction of the Wady Alias from the position occupied 
by the prophet at the time he was commanded to depart 
for Cherith. 1 The second claimant is the "Wady Fasael, 
fifteen miles north of us, and running east to the Jor- 
dan. The only reason given for its claim is that it 
contains a "living fountain." This wady is described as 
steep and rocky, and scorching winds from the plain of 
the J ordan sweep up the valley as from a fire. Van de 
Yelde, who travelled here, remarks that his guides as 
well as himself thought they " should die while in this 
gigantic furnace, 2 till they came to a fountain of living 
water, which keeps the leaves of the trees only in the 
immediate vicinity green, while every thing around is 
consumed by drought and heat." This spring is the Ain 

so in verse 15 : " The two tribes and the half-tribe have received their in- 
heritance on this side Jordan (near) Jericho eastward" which makes the 
direction by no means due east, as parts of their tribes were both northeast 
and southeast of Jordan and Jericho; but their general direction from Jor- 
dan and Jericho was eastward, and their actual position in the east: hence 
the addition of the sentence "toward the sun-rising," a modification of the 
term "east." In all the instances wherein these terms are used without am- 
biguity, "east," "west," &e. seem to give the actual position definitely; 
while eastward, westward, &c, in the original, appear to indicate only an 
indefinite and general direction. Thus, on examination it will be found 
that the term used in the passage directing Elijah is, " Turn thee east- 
ward," (kedmah,) signifying the general direction which Elijah was to take, 
not necessarily defining the position of the brook Cherith as due east. 
Southeast would have answered the requirements of eastward; and this 
was the direction of the brook from his locality at the time of the com- 
mand. 

1 This is the view of the Rabbi Swartz, in his " Palestine ;" but against 
this authority is that of Josephus, who says the prophet went into the 
southern parts. Wady Alias is east, — perhaps northeast. Antiq., bk. viii. 
12, 2. 

2 Van de Velde, vol. ii. p. 309. 

25* 



394 



LIVING WATEES AND THE BROOK. 



Fasael. The choice of such a valley, in the time of the 
exceeding drought which came upon that land wherein 
Elijah was directed to find Cherith, would not have been 
consistent with that consideration with which the Lord 
seemed to provide for his prophet wherever he went, and 
which is most beautifully suggested in a previous passage 
of his history. 1 The very fact which seems to be urged in 
its favor — that there are living waters there — would be 
rather against than in favor of its claims ; since " the brook 
dried up," while the living waters did not; for Ahab 
at this very season directs his steward to go out to " all 
fountains of water and all brooks" 2 and get grass, — from 
which it is fair to infer that there were some still flowing, 
especially the living waters. But this description of 
living waters in this valley, in the shape of a fountain, 
(am,) operates against its claims still further in the kind 
of waters, for the Cherith must have no fountain, (ain,) 
but a brook, (nahal,) and it must not be "living water," 
but become dry when the exceeding drought dries up 
the waters of the land. 

What, then, are the claims and the character 
of the wild glen through which we are passing to 
the Jordan? In all respects — its position, its arch- 
mouthed caverns which we frequently pass, its busy 
torrent and its deep channel through the mountain-cliffs, 
its full view looking so boldly upon the face of Jordan 
plain, and frequently upon the sea, and, lastly, its very 
name, Kerit, in the language of the prophet becoming 



1 1 Kings six. 5, 7. 



2 1 Kings xviii. 5. 



CHANGES WHICH OCCUR IN NAMES. 



395 



(by an allowable change of R into L 1 ) the Kelt of the 
Arabs, — each of these significations may be shown 
to be an illustration of as many words of the original. 

Its position, "eastward" of the prophet's probable 
locality, — its "hiding-places," (from the anger of 
Ahab,) — its "brook," (nahal, not ain,) which might 
dry in the absence of the rain, — its "Cherith," or 
" division" of these deep mountain-bluffs, — its " before," 
or "upon," in "full view of, the Jordan," — and its 
name, so like the ancient type, but modified into the 
euphony of Kelt, — all answer to the Scripture descrip- 
tion. We desired for this little brook these hallowed 
associations ; but we would not have them if they had 
to be dragged in. We would have them consecrate the 
place to thoughts which should flow into our mind, in 
reference to its wild cliffs, as freely as the breezes 
which so refreshingly come up from the Jordan to meet 
us. And though we may not have made the identity 
certain, yet the probabilities are so numerous, and, on 

1 The changes of Kappa into Koph and Resh into Lam do occur, and are 
fully explained in Gesenius's Heb. Lex., under these letters : moreover, the 
natural habits of indolence, either induced by climate or pursuits, fre- 
quently modify the language of a people. The refinement of the Greek sug- 
gested a change of the rough " Padan-Aram" into the musical term " Meso- 
potamia;" the ancient Roman tongue is by their indolent descendants soft- 
ened into the Italian, and the modern Roman-Italian is still softer, as appears 
among the more effeminate Venetians ; while the English " Leghorn'' is, 
in the Italian, "Livorno," and the beautiful Florence in our tongue is still 
more beautifully " Firenza the guttural Aachen goes south to become 
more refined into Aix-la-Chapelle, and the difficult Kb'ln comes forth from 
a French school as Cologne : even the lazy Otaheitans labor over the Eng- 
lish word " cook" till it becomes " too too." Upon the same basis of change 
the ancient guttural and Hebrew " Kherith," written Cherith, may have 
been made " Kelt by the modern Arabs ;" for these euphonic changes 
form the bases of what are sometimes called grammatical changes. 



396 



ELIJAH HIDDEN FROM AHAB. 



the whole, so forcible, that we let our doubts disappear, 
while our thoughts settle upon the prophet himself. 
Away back through the mist of twenty-seven hundred 
years, I see a form clad in a strangely rough garment 
of the coarsest camel's-hair, so that the inhabitants call 
him a "hairy man," (1 Kings i. 8,) with a dark girdle 
of leather, blackened with age and use, and bound 
tightly around his waist, for he has come from a tire- 
some journey, and perhaps down the Valley of the 
Jordan, to escape the vigilance of the parasites upon the 
favor of Ahab the king. Elijah has incurred the king's 
hatred, and Ahab may track him if he pass through the 
populous districts of Samaria. With the majesty of one 
whose purpose was hidden in God's command, he scales 
the heights and reaches a cavern, perhaps like the one 
which we have just seen, whose mouth seems only 
twent}^ or thirty feet from the brook. And now, having 
fled from the wrath of Ahab, he hides himself in a 
house unformed by human strength, an emblem of the 
everlasting rock of God's friendship. There he abode 
under the shadow of the Almighty; and the same 
omnipotent power that made the fish of the sea bring 
tribute to Csesar made the birds of the air bring tribute 
to one who was greater than Csesar. 1 

1 A very little careful study of the Hebrew term signifying "raven" 
will put the scholar in a proper position for examination of the word 
in the history of Elijah. The word raven, oreb, ^"1^, in the singular 
and plural, occurs ten times; six times with the partic)es : "and," in (Isa. 
xxxiv. 11;) "the," in (Gen. viii. 7,) (first occurrence;) (black) "as" (the 
raven,) (Cant. v. 11;) "for," (Job xxxviii. 41;) and "the" twice in the chap- 
ter before us. (1 Kings xvii. 4, 6.) Ereb signified " evening," and hence dark- 
ness and blackness, whence the crow or raven (the same bird) obtained its 



V 



ELIJAH FED BY RAVENS. 



397 



I confess, the majesty of Elijah's words produce in me 
a greater sense of the mysterious than the miracles that 

appellation of ereb, namely, "bird of the night-color/' In this exact form 
it occurs nowhere else. In the passages in Ezekiel where something of 
the same form is said to appear, and is translated "occupiers," (Ezek. xxvii. 
27.) the usual term is entirely different, ^^3*1, (rokel,) and lltD* (soher,) 
signifying nothing in common with the oreb, save that these were "wan- 
derers," or "travelling merchants/ 7 But there is one of the above-cited 
texts which agrees with the character of the ravens of Cherith and seems 
to throw light upon the word. It is in Prov. xxx. IT, where they are called 
"ravens of the valley," in the original, "ravens of the brook," and in the 
Hebrew words ^n^""^""^* (orebe nahal,) which is precisely the character 
given them in the text, — namely, "ravens of the brook Cherith." I think, 
therefore, that the attempt to show that they might have been merchants or 
Arabs is altogether unnatural, and more difficult than to submit at once to 
the plain understanding and acknowledge the aid of the ravens in the 
preservation of Elijah. Some stress has been put upon a passage in Ezek. 
xxvii. 27, in an attempt to show that the oreb may signify" merchants and 
the fair value of this view may be found thus: — "Raven" has been the 
only understanding of the word "oreb" for about two thousand years, from 
the time Moses used it in Gen. viii. 7, to the time of Ezekiel, — supposing 
Genesis to have been written soon after the departure of the Israelites from 
Egypt, (1491 b.c.) Xo one ever thought that Prov. xxx. 17 was to be 
translated "the Arabs or the merchants of the valley shall pick out his 
eye, and the young eagles shall eat it," nor that in Gen. viii. 7 it should 
be understood "that Noah sent forth from the window of the ark an 
Arab or a merchant, who went to and fro until the waters were dried up 
from off the earth;" and yet, when the word occurs in the poetical figures 
of Ezekiel, its different signification, and in a different composition, is to be 
carried back from the imagery of Ezekiel to the historical prose of the times 
of Elijah, several hundred years before the time of Ezekiel, "and over the 
intervening definite signification occurring in Proverbs, where the word 
is allowed to be understood as ravens ! This alone would certainly be an 
objection, and peculiarly so in the Hebrew. And then, when we find, on 
examination, that the word in Ezek. xxvii. 27 is so intimately connected 
with the following word that it cannot be translated without that word, it 
materially modifies any similarity which might have been previously sup- 
posed to exist between it and the word found in the passage concerning 
Elijah. The two words are translated in our English Bible, verse 27, 
" and the occupiers of thy merchandise," expressed in two words in the 
Hebrew, — vedrebe mdtrdbth ; where the oreb appears very plainly with ve, 
— being the conjunction "and," — leaving orebe, the last syllable of which 
positively binds it to the following word in what is called a " construct 



398 



NOT BY ARABS. 



attended his life. See him in the presence of Ahab, 
near JezreeL, while the king is enjoying the field of 

state" or ending. As soon, therefore, might one attempt to determine 
from the phrase "lion of Judah," or "lion of Great Britain/ 7 what the 
natural history of a lion was, or to alter all previous idea of the apple from 
a study of "pomme" in the constructive French name of potato, — "pomme 
de terre," — as to determine from the phrase in Ezekiel what the oreb was in 
the time of Elijah. The signification of the ancient "oreb" may cast its 
impress upon the "orebe" of after-times and somewhat determine it, but 
the reverse cannot be expected when the ancient meaning was settled. 
Thus Tyre, the Venice of Syria, planted upon the sea of the West in perfect 
beauty, is warned of the times when its gorgeous sun of luxury shall set 
forever. The poetical imagery is beautiful. Speaking of Syria and 
Damascus, Judah and the land of Israel, their merchants are called "wan- 
dering merchants," — the men who travel, — intimating " land merchants" 
rather than merchants of the marine trade. When, however, the great 
sea, under the title of " the great waters," is spoken of, and the costly and 
luxurious produce of the West is meant, the term "maerabeh" (merchan- 
dise) is used, and this repeatedly; and it may have reference to the places 
from which the goods were brought, or for which they were particularly 
intended, namely, from or for the "land of the evening," — the West, and 
thus having the direction implied in the term. But, while this may pos- 
sibly be the basis-idea of the term, it is more probably a different word, 
and not a noun at all, but the plural participle of a verb, and one 
which signifies to "trade by giving a vsurety" or pledge in place of pay- 
ment to those who thus " traded in the merchandise" of foreign lands. To 
complete the view of this "opposition to the raven," it may be added that 
one more term found in Neb. iv. 7 (1st verse in the Hebrew) reads the Ara- 
bim, — translated Arabians : it evidently signifies a nation, for it is in 
strictly a list of nations. But this occurs more than one hundred years 
later than Ezekiel, and, besides, is again a different word, being rather Arb 
than Oreb. I am aware that the Septuagint translators are on the side of 
the " raven" interpretation, and translate it by the Greek for raven ; but the 
argument from the Hebrew is sufficient, without the aid of the Septuagint. 
The idea that there was a town Arabo or Oreb by name, and that the people 
were called Orebim from that place, has no geographical authority, and was 
probably first suggested by a Rabbi Juda, as quoted by Bochart, (Hiero- 
zoicon,) vol. ii. p. 806, who shows the improbability of any such origin. In 
conclusion, there can be no doubt of the intent of the writer to express the idea 
of ravens just as translated; and we are driven back to this ground by 
every natural and grammatical impression and construction whatever. And, 
indeed, to us it would appear more difficult to conceive that an Arab or a 
merchant was intended by the use of the word, than it would be to account 
for the Divine preservation of Elijah through the agency of ravens themselves. 



MORAL COURAGE OF ELIJAH. 



399 



Naboth, (1 Kings xxi. 19-20.) That roughly-clad form, 
in its loneliness and weakness, hides beneath it the 
lion-heart of Elijah. Silently he appears in the gar- 
den of the murdered Naboth, like a mysterious cloud, 
dark with awful warnings. His words are few, and 
therefore the more God-like, and the effect like the 
crushing peal of thunder after the first bright line of 
lightning. And he who had sent into every "nation 
and kingdom" in his vengeance to find the single- 
handed prophet is at last " found of the prophet him- 
self," and, in his terror, Ahab exclaims, " Hast thou found 
me, mine enemy?" With what unflinching majesty of 
courage Elijah answers, "I have found thee, because 
thou hast sold thyself to work evil in the sight of the 
Lord;" 1 and then follows that cataract of terrors poured 
upon Ahab, both as respects his love for royalty and his 
affection for Jezebel, until the sinning, humbled monarch 
himself changes the scene. Next is presented a dark 
and silent chamber in the palace, where all purple and 
crimson has been exchanged for sackcloth and sadness, 
and where lies the former rebel tyrant fasting and in 
silence. Now leave him in that sad chamber, and look 
out once more upon that dark cloud : one little ray of 
light has fringed it with hope and with mercy, and the 
prophet bears a word of comfort for even the repentant 
Ahab. 

The majesty of all this scene, as the effect of the 
unbound truth of God in the hands of so feeble an in- 
strument as the prophet, exhibits as much more of the 



1 1 Kings xxi. 20. 



400 



CASTLE IN THE RAVINE. 



Divinity than other scenes, as power over a demoniacal 
purpose is more wonderful than power over mere unre- 
sisting matter. 

Passing down the steep descent from the Wady Kelt 
to the plain, we find a ruined castle situated on our right. 
It has the appearance in itself of former strength, and 
commands the entrance to this, the main access to Jeru- 
salem. It is very probably the mixed-architectural re- 
mains of the castle Herod built over Jericho, and which 
he called after his mother, Cypros. 1 Alterations and 
addition have evidently been made since his time, and the 
castle appears to be one to which reference is made in 
two old records, — one, wherein four wandering knights, 
in 1395, speak of a place in this vicinity as the "Bed 
Tower;" 2 and again, perhaps more definitely, in the 
year 1483, when a traveller, said to be ascending the 
cliffs from Jericho, meets with ruins near the heights, 
which he thinks once formed the tower of Adammim, 
that is, the ascent of the "Bed ones," from the san- 
guinary contests here between robbers and travellers. 
To protect the latter, the castle was, as we may sup- 
pose, rebuilt either on the ancient foundation, or with 
perhaps the foundation-stones of the old fortress of 
Herod the Great. The whole region, from the castle 
to Bethany, was called the desert of Adammim. The 
castle seems to have been named, in the year 14 83, 3 the 

1 Antiq., xvi. 5, 2. 

2 Journey from Vtetz to Jerusalem, in 1395. by four Knights, in L'Aus- 
trasie, published in Metz, vol. iii., 1838. De Saulcy, vol. ii. p. 20. 

3 Fabri Evagatorium, &c, vol. ii. p. 78 : quoted by Bonar in his " Land 
of Promise," p. 306. 



FRIENDSHIP A PRETENCE. 



401 



castle Roibach, or river of blood, and is very probably 
the same as the Ked Tower spoken of above, and the 
Kakon of the present Arabs, — a name given also to 
ruins below the castle and still nearer the plain. This 
old gray-and-black ruined castle, what scenes of terror 
have its turrets and its ruins been witness to since the 
time of its origin ! The castle was built as a kind of toll- 
gate where tribute was paid, to the authority of Herod the 
Great, whose fondness of show exhibited itself by erecting 
palaces and fortresses between this castle and the Jericho 
of his time, as well as north of the city as far as Fasael. 
These buildings he named after his friends. Such was the 
constant uneasiness, the cunning and cruelty, of Herod, 
that it is more than probable these castles and palaces 
were erected really with a view to his own advantage 
in time of rebellion, though called after the names of 
relatives and friends. 1 From the appearance of the 
grasses, and the hardness and nature of the stones, as 
seen when we passed the ruins, this old castle bids fair 
to remain many years unaltered. There are to be 
found immediately around the walls, and among ruins 
near them, rude mosaics. The fragments once com- 
posing them are several inches square, and apparently 
set in a lime cement, such as was used in those of a 
neater form and size found at Rome, and intended for 
walks as well as for rude ornamental or reticulated 
walls. The appearance of these fragments may be 
understood by the following sketch of a piece of the 
wall, just as it appeared by the roadside. 



1 Joseph. Antiq. xvi. 5, 2 ; Wars, i. 24, 1, 9. 
26 



402 



SINGULAR MOUNDS. 




On descending into the plain, we passed a high, 
circular mound, ten to fifteen feet high; and two 
smaller ones were not far off. There are mounds some- 
what similar to them in the distance ; and those near 
the mouth of the Wady Kelt are covered, to some 
extent, with ruins. The guides speak of them as 
natural tumuli; hut their perfect form and singularly 
isolated position would make us quite willing to under- 
take an excavation. This plain of the Jordan has been 
associated with more historical interest than we would 
at first suppose; and something might be elicited from 
an examination of these mounds which would repay the 
trouble. The course generally pursued after descending 
is immediately across the Kelt and to the "Fountain 
of Elisha," and it was the direction adopted by our 
guide; but afterward we found that altogether a pre- 
ferable point of our first visit would have been the 
modern Jericho,, — the Eriha of the Arabs. This is 
the point, therefore, after crossing the Wady Kelt at 
the base of the mountains, toward which we intend to 
direct our course. 



WATERS OF THE CHERITH. 



403 



CHAPTER XIX. 

- BROOK KELT— JERICHO THE BANKS OF THE JORDAN. 

For the greater part of the year, unless there is 
unusual drought, the little brook Kelt sends forth its 
waters into the plain, and directly east to the Jordan. 
It is an irregular stream, sometimes increasing to quite 
a rivulet, being from twenty to thirty feet in breadth. 
This is its greatest width, which it attains only after 
recent and heavy rains. It then rapidly decreases to 
its width in winter of not more than ten to fifteen feet, 
and an average depth of one and a half, possibly two, 
feet. In the summer it is usually dry. 1 

And now, having descended upon the plain and 
crossed to the north bank of the brook, we gallop 
freely along the bank to Eriha. The soil is sufficiently 
hard for our horses' feet, and, notwithstanding the 
fatigue of a rocky and tedious journey from Jerusalem 
across the wilderness, all seem, without exception, to 
enjoy the glorious plain, the verdure and forests of 

1 Dr. Stuart, of Leghorn, says, " Swollen with the recent rains, it was 
here a stream of twenty feet in breadth ; and the water, which flowed with 
great impetuosity, reached to our saddle-girths, so that we were obliged to 
sit with our legs across the horses' necks to get over without wetting." — P. 
371. This was on the 10th of March, 1854 ; but it was probably unusually 
swollen even for that time of the year. 



404 



THE MODERN JERICHO. 



which are quite sufficient to add an unwonted vigor 
and freshness to the scenery, and to our spirits also. 1 
The modern Jericho is nearly two miles east from the 
foot of the mountains; and the level plain permits 
rapid riding to the village. Having agreed with our 
Arabs to spend our time while on the Jordan as 
inhabitants in Jericho itself, we have no tents to pitch, 
and do not even examine into our quarters, but defer 
all inquiries until night. We, however, make an intro- 
duction of ourselves so far as to picket our horses for 
some examination about the place. If I had not so 
frequently spoken about the odd and uncomfortable 
villages into which we have been thrust hereto- 
fore, I might more particularly describe Eriha. All 
the houses are of one story; and those of rocky 
material are built out of the fragments of ancient 
ruins, perhaps of ancient Jericho itself. On their tops 
are bushes and fagots and mud, to keep out the rain. 
The different parts of the village are separated by 
thorn-bushes piled up in the style of a wall, or long 
heaps fastened together with sticks thrust into the 
ground. In front of the doors, or more properly holes 

1 There is a distinction between "wilderness" and "desert." A wilderness 
in the Scriptures is described by the word midhbar, *"Q"7D> which has for 

t : 

its basis the idea of pasture, or of land which could be used for pas- 
turing flocks, though rugged and destitute of trees. A desert was a 
region of devastation utterly unfit to sustain life, and is called yishemon, 
f iD*t£^ having a root signifying to devastate. This is the word described 
as a " dry land" in Ps. lxviii. 6, though in the seventh verse translated "wil- 
derness." In Ps. lxxviii. 40, both words occur, very properly distinguished: 
so in Ps. cvi. 14. The country generally above referred to is called wilder- 
ness. Josh. xvi. 1. 



CASTLE OF ERIHA. 



405 



of entrance and exit, are little sheds of brush, sustained 
by poles and surrounded by mud embankments : they 
are intended to serve as verandahs, where some volun- 
teer vines drop down as trellis-work, being, of course, 
as much like the thing intended as could be expected 
in "things opposite." But we shall become better ac- 
quainted with the place hereafter. Adjoining the village 
is the so-called Castle of Jericho, a rock-built tower of 
about thirty feet square, two stories, but broken in 
at the top, and used as a stable and garrison for a few 
Turkish soldiers. This rootless old tower, which has re- 
mained in its solitary position so many years, with the 
moss-weeds of its mourning blackened more and more 
every day by the fires of its dingy occupants, deserves a 
better location and a more honorable title. It was proba- 
bly erected during the early years of the Crusades, — per- 
haps about a.d. 11 50, 1 — when this plain was replanted 
and its former beauty and fruitfulness in some measure 
restored. When first mentioned, a.d. 1211, by Wilde- 
brand of Oldenberg, it was called by him " a small 
castle, having walls already decayed, and inhabited by 
Saracens;" 2 but he seems to take scarcely any notice 
of the village, and speaks as though all Jericho then 
consisted of the castle. Four piastres will gain you an 
easy entrance; and, after ascending a very "critical" 
pair of stairs, you will, from a kind of gallery running 



1 Robinson, Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 295, thinks it probable that it was built 
about a.d. 1138, and gives reasons. 

2 Willebr. ab. Oldenb. in L. Allatii Symmikta, p. 151, quoted by Robinson, 
reference same as in former note. 



406 EXTENT OF THE PLAIN OF JERICHO. 



round the inside, obtain a view of one of the most 
interesting plains and series of localities to be found 
in Palestine. First, then, look around and get the size 
of this plain of J ericho, upon which the scenes we would 
describe occurred. East of us about six and a half miles, 
are the banks of the Jordan, slightly bending in toward 
the west for a short distance, and then for a much longer 
distance toward the east. The valley and plain (see 
map) seem closed up on the north by the Jordan sweep- 
ing round again to the west, to meet a low range of hills 
shooting out from the mountains on the left toward the 
east, and the limits appear to be somewhat beyond that 
wady, called El Aujeh, which is at least seven miles to 
the north. Then, approaching in a curved line on its 
western boundary, the plain spreads out to the moun- 
tains, two miles off on our left, at the Wady Kelt. 
Thence, receding from us slightly, it passes south- 
ward about four and a half miles to a latitude 
of the marsh-grounds, and from that point the south- 
ern limit may be said to cross in a straight line east 
to the Jordan, which itself makes here a detour to- 
ward the east for at least two miles, and then, sweep- 
ing in a circle northwestward, it connects with our 
first point of observation. This plain, more extensive 
than an observer might suppose from this position, covers 
very nearly seventy square miles. 1 It includes some 



1 I afterward made a calculation of the whole area of this plain, and 
the offsets, as far as several miles' ride on horseback would permit ; and, 
after various inquiries and examinations, the result arrived at was 78.3 
square miles. 



THE AMOUNT OF ARABLE SOIL. 



407 



rolling ground, and some small places a little worn 
and ridged, or galled, to use a farmer's phrase. Now, ex- 
cluding some marsh-land immediately south of us and 
on the Dead Sea, a few stubborn crevices in the soil, 
the rocky track of the Wady Kelt, which nearly bisects 
the plain, and perhaps a little side of the ridge of the 
Esh el Ghurab on the north, and there will remain at the 
lowest estimate sixty square miles : perhaps we might say 
that ten miles might still be deducted as unproductive, 
either because its situation precludes irrigation, or from 
the necessity of using the ground itself in the machinery 
and line of the canals and aqueducts for a proper dis- 
tribution of water. Thus it appears that we have fairly 
fifty square miles of soil, none of which could present 
any obstacle to a single hill-side plough, and any acre 
of which, in the hands of a good farmer, with a double 
plough, could be levelled into admirable planting-order 
in one season. 

I brought my microscope with me from Jerusalem, 
and used it on a walk from Bethany to the plain 
of Jericho, obtaining more immediate and varied ob- 
servation of the changes in the soil than by pre- 
serving samples. From this examination, and by 
qualitative analyses afterward made, I am inclined to 
think that, while from Mt. Olives to the plain of 
Jericho four distinct varieties of soil appear, there is 
no variation on the plain of any practical importance 
to the farmer, especially in the fifty miles just referred 
to. In some places the soil looks darker, and in others 
yellow and light; but on examination the difference 



408 



JORDAN A SOURCE OF IRRIGATION. 



seems attributable only to the deposition of vegetable 
matter, from a series of growths induced by better irri- 
gation at some spots than at others. Any other vari- 
ations would be outside of the fifty miles of the area cal- 
culated in the above observation. The general quality 
of this soil presents lime as a carbonate, some degree of 
organic matter, and decided traces of silica and alumina, 
the strong argillaceous odor of which is quite perceptible, 
and seems to impart a similar exhalation to some of the 
dried plants, of which we shall speak hereafter. Here, 
then, are the principal ingredients and circumstances 
requisite to exhibit the capabilities of this plain. The 
silicious and alkaline elements are sufficient to suggest 
its adaptation to the culture of various grains and to some 
vegetable plants, if we could obtain a somewhat different 
composition and more moisture. How shall this be ob- 
tained ? The rapid fall of the Jordan, which at the same 
time bends into the plain about three miles westward, 
and at a convenient distance north, suggests an answer 
in supplying a flood of irrigation, affording also 
important salts not found in the soil'. If the Jordan 
should be led off at the Wady Faria, a point thir- 
teen and a half miles north of where we now stand, 
and brought on a level as far as this Castle of Eriha, 
it would be nearly one hundred feet above the plain, 
or about sixty feet above our heads. The gentle de- 
scent of the plain would give a current through canals 
quite sufficient for all the purposes of irrigation. 1 



These calculations are made thus: — Lieutenant Lynch gives (Official Re- 



VALUE OF THE PRODUCE. 



409 



What a field for grain-produce would this plain of 
Jericho afford to some enterprising farmers of our own 
land who labor over soils not yielding ten bushels of 
wheat to the acre! Let us for a minute suppose on 
allowable bases what might be the value of the produce 
of this fifty square miles for one season. As each mile 
contains six hundred and forty acres, we shall have 
thirty-two thousand acres of land, the finest for wheat, 
barley, oats, and other similar grains; and, through the 
irrigation from the Jordan as proposed, the dissemination 
of alluvial deposits and salts proved to exist in the 
Jordan waters 1 would result and vegetables and other 
plants never before gathered in this region might be 
introduced. Still further: we know that no planter 
or farmer in England or America would expect 
from a good farm any less than twenty-five bushels 
of wheat to the acre; and the average in some places 
is much higher. This is a low average for such 
land as this plain appears to consist of; and yet at 
this rate it would yield eight hundred thousand bushels 
of wheat each season, besides the after-growths, which 



port, p. 28) the barometrical level below the Mediterranean Sea, at 
Mukutta (ford) Damieh at the mouth of Wady Faria, as 1096.88. He gives 
the barometrical level of the Dead Sea below the Mediterranean at 1234.58. 
The difference is 137.70 ft. The distance of the two points is about nineteen 
English miles, which would give 7.2 feet to the mile. Subtract the dis- 
tance (five miles and a half) of Eriha north of the sea from this, and we 
shall have thirteen miles and a half at 7.2 feet. Five miles would be 
97.20 feet fall from W. Faria to Eriha. I have taken the barometrical level 
of the sea rather than 1316.7 obtained by instruments, because the pre- 
vious level was obtained by barometer, and I therefore arrive at a more 
uniform result. 
1 See analysis in Lynch's Official Report. 

26* 



410 



OTHER POINTS ON THE PLAIN. 



are generally made without injury to the crop. Wheat 
commands a price seldom if ever lower than sixty 
cents a bushel, while it often rises in price to one 
dollar, and not unfrequently to two dollars at some 
seasons and under certain circumstances. At the 
lowest rate, this would therefore give a value of 
four hundred and eighty thousand dollars for a wheat- 
crop alone. Much as this may seem, it cannot be far 
from the true result, if the boundaries I have chosen are 
allowed; and they seem both natural and practicable 
to any one riding over this region. And when, in ad- 
dition, it is remembered that scientific research has 
shown that one pound of wheat contains as much 
nourishment as four pounds of potatoes, and, taking the 
result of actual measurement in England as a standard, 
that one acre produces sixteen hundred and eighty 
pounds of wheat, or twenty thousand one hundred and 
sixty pounds of potatoes, we can easily conclude what 
amount of population this plain alone might be made 
to sustain. 

We are viewing the whole plain from the castle, which 
is a few yards north of the stream of the Wady Kelt; and 
the first direction in the order of its historical interests 
will be eastward and across the Jordan. The high 
lands of the mountains of Moab appear about four miles 
beyond the stream in an almost uniform chain running 
north and south. Looking at a point on the Jordan 
due east, and then along tbe range to a pass in the 
mountains about two miles below, we see the spot 
where commences the southern boundary of the land 



TRIBES EAST OF JORDAN. 



411 



of Israel east of the Jordan. This is the Arnon, now 
the Wady el Moyib, a little rivulet running directly 
west into the Dead Sea, and dry in summer. This 
rivulet Anion forms also the northern boundary of 
Moab, below which, at the lower end of the Dead Sea, 
commences Edom. Due east of Jericho was the section 
of Gad, running north as a broad tract for about thirty 
miles, then narrowing into a strip up the Jordan, and 
thence to the Lake of Tiberias. 1 Below Gad was 
Reuben's section. 2 East of our position, a little toward 
the south, the river makes a remarkable curve toward 
the east for about a mile from its former course, and 
thus it forms a round tract of land which seems to push 
the river into Moab's territory. It is well calculated to 
attract general attention. As the Wady Hesban passes 
through the mountains eastward from this point, 3 it is pro- 
bable that the northern boundary of Reuben commences 
here; and this line of division between Gad on the 
north and Eeuben on the south might have been the 
line near which the hosts of Israel gathered when 
led to their first entrance upon the promised land. 
Here Joshua thought proper to say " to the Reubenites, 
and to the Gadites, and to the half-tribe of Manasseh," 
(which also had its part east of Jordan and north of 
Gad,) "Remember the word which Moses, the servant 
of the Lord, commanded you, saying, The Lord your 
God hath given you rest, and hath given you this 



1 Joshua xiii. 24-28. 2 Joshua xiii. 15-23. 

3 The point from the castle is S. 72° E. by compass, as corrected for vari- 
ation on the map it is S. 80° E. 



412 



ISRAELITES' FIRST ENTRANCE. 



land: your wives, your little ones, and your cattle 
shall remain in the land which Moses gave you on this 
side of Jordan ; but ye shall pass before your brethren 
armed, all the mighty men of valor, and help them, 
until the Lord have given your brethren rest as he 
hath given you, and they also have possessed the land 
which the Lord your God giveth them : then ye shall 
return unto the land of your possession and enjoy it, 
which Moses, the Lord's servant, gave you on this side 
of Jordan, toward the sunrising." 1 

Now, the interest of these parts of the Jordan, so 
plainly seen from this point, will be in proportion to the 
knowledge of the Scripture we possess. The hosts of 
Israel crossed the Jordan after forty-one years of wan- 
dering. 2 On their approach to the promised land, they 
first enter the land on the south and southeast of the 
Dead Sea. This was the land of Edom, where was 
Mt. Seir, the dwelling-place of Esau ; for " Esau's land" 
was called "Edom," 3 or Idumea. It probably extended 
twenty-five to thirty-five miles eastward of the sea and 
beyond the district of Moab, which adjoined Edom on 
the north. 4 The land of Moab commenced at Edom, at 
the lower part of the sea, running northward and termi- 
nating midway at the river Arnon. The Moabites 
were descendants of Moab, born to Lot while he was 



1 Joshua i. 12-16. 

2 Compare Deut. i. 3 and xxxiv. 8. 3 Gen. xxxvi. 8. 

4 Compare Deut. xi. 8, 19, where in reference to the Edomites it says, "We 
passed by from Esau, our brethren," and "we turned," and then they passed 
the coast of Moab; as also x. 1-4, where it took " many days to compass Mt. 
Seir." 



Israel's troubles on entrance. 413 



living in the cave at Zoar; 1 and Lot being a nephew 
of Abraham, the Israelites were commanded to pass 
Moab, and also Amnion, Moab's brother, as being near 
of kin to themselves. 

They were remarkably obedient to the command 2 
"distress not the Moabites" "nor meddle with" the Edom- 
ites and the Ammonites ; and the only distress occasioned 
to Moab was to Balak, its king, who was ignorant of the 
motive which caused the Israelites to ravage the terri- 
tories of the Amorites, who were immediately adjoining 
Moab and across the river Arnon, on the north, and 
the land of Og, King of Bashan, north of the Amorites, 
and so quietly pass by his own land. This course of 
the Israelites was to Balak only a source of sus- 
picion and anxiety. The Edomites on his southern 
border, though nearer by kin to the Israelites than 
these children of Lot, and knowing their history 3 
and their "travail," resisted any advance upon their 
territory, threatening them with the sword if they 
attempted it, and this, too, in answer to a very respectful 
and humble deputation sent by Moses when at Kadesh, 
on the utmost edge of their land. 4 



1 Gen. xix. 30-38. 2 Dent. ii. 5, 9, 19. 

3 Numb. xx. 14: "Thou knowest all the travail that hath befallen us." 

4 Numb. xx. 16. 



414 



RELATIONSHIPS. 



O 
i_i 

H 

w 

H 

PR 
O 

Ph 

W 
o 

H 

Oh 
q 

<1 



w 

L_ Eh 
3 



o 



< 

< 

O 

« S 

- o 
p 



(— I " 

On- 
to 

w 

EH 
i— i 

o 
W 

EH 



w 
< 

03 



— pi 



Pi 

L_ H 



BALAAM. 



415 



CHAPTER XX. 

THE NATIONS AROUND — PASSAGE OF THE JORDAN. 

The relation of these " outside tribes" of Israel is 
interesting, and may be seen by the table of genealogy 
given on the preceding page. 

The King of Moab did not perceive the relation 
between his own people and the Israelites, nor yet 
God's purposes to spare the country; or — becoming 
timid, from the fact that the Amorites had, during the 
reign of his predecessor, robbed Moab of all the lands 
and cities on the north of the Arnon, to such an extent 
that their violence became a proverb — he feared to 
have a people in his vicinity who showed them- 
selves stronger than his conquerors. Notwithstanding 
this timid king " served his own idols, he feared the 
Lord ;" and hence his desire to obtain a curse of the 
Israelites through Balaam, who, though a prophet, had 
not the wisdom of the ass he rode, for that saw the 
Divine opposition to his course before his master's eyes 
were opened to the same vision. And surely such a 
prophet was a fit companion for such a king, who had 
not the wit to see that God would not — certainly not 
through such an instrument as Balaam — curse his own 
people Israel. Balaam's love for the wages of unright- 



/ 



416 



AMORITES THE USURPERS. 



eousness caused him to be ridden by Balak to his own 
destruction; for the Scriptures tell us that, for teaching 
Balak to cast a stumbling-block before the children of 
Israel/ God smote him with the strokes he intended for 
his own beast, and he perished in the battle between 
Israel and the Midianites. 2 Notwithstanding Moab's 
fears and follies, he escaped injury from the Israelites, 
only because of their reverence for the command of God. 

All the plain and mountains east of us formerly be- 
longed to Moab, and were taken from him by the king 
of a wandering tribe, (the Amorites,) who succeeded in 
planting himself between the two brothers Moab on 
the south and Ammon on the northeast. This he 
effected by driving the Moabites out of their land, 
taking care not to intrude upon Ammon. By this we 
learn that these two sons of Lot had no very strong 
mutual attachment ; for neither at this time, nor when 
afterward Moab united with Midian on the east and 
southeast of his borders in the attempt against Israel, 
do we hear of any aid offered or attempted on the part 
of Ammon, though called a " strong border." 3 I have 
thought it necessary to an understanding of the position 
and course of the wandering hosts of Israel to be thus 
definite in the description of the tribes which had 
such intimate connection with them. There still re- 
mains a little indefiniteness in relation to the Midian- 
ites. Who were they? and why were they in the 
east? By reference to the table, (p. 414,) we see 



1 Rev. ii. 14. 



2 Numb. xxxi. 8. 3 Numb. xxi. 24. 



MIDIAJSTITES AND MEDANITES. 



417 



they were descendants of Abraham by Keturah. And 
Abraham gave them gifts, and during his lifetime 
sent them " eastward into the east country." 1 
Now, Abraham, at the time of this sending eastward, 
was himself west of the Dead Sea, at Hebron : hence, 
their settlement east of the Dead Sea happened 
at an early day, long before the time of the Exodus ; 
and thus, by the time the Israelites arrived at the same 
place from their wanderings, these sons of Abraham 
and Keturah were firmly established. The Medanites 2 
(translated Midianites in Gen. xxxvii. 36) were esta- 
blished as tradesmen on the east of the Dead Sea, and 
adjoining their brethren the Midianites, who were proba- 
bly below them, they stretched along east of Edom and 
south toward Sinai. Hence the position of Moses's father- 
in-law, the priest of Midian, near Sinai. In the time of 
Jacob, these tribes, being small, seem to have banded 
together for the purpose of trade, as they were settled 
in the same part of the country; and thus the Ishmael- 
ites, Midianites, and Medanites are mentioned togethei 

1 Gen. xxv. 6. 

2 The word in Hebrew shows that these were Medanites, the descendants 
of Medan, and not Midianites. See the places in Gen. xxxvii. 36, 1 Chron. 
i. 32, and compare with Numb. xxxi. 2, 3, and elsewhere, where Abraham's 
children by Keturah are Medan and Midian, with others. Kitto's sup- 
position, (see "Midianites,") if on the basis of Gen. xxxvii. 36, — that these 
Midianites of Gen. xxxvii. 36 were descendants from Cush, — is very un- 
necessary ; for when, in 1 Chron. i. 32 and in Gen. xxv. 2, Medan and 
Midian are associated, precisely as in the Hebrew text of Gen. xxxvii. 
28-36, and shown to be descendants of Abraham, and Abraham a descend- 
ant of Shem, (see p. 414. ) by what authority can they be said to be from 
Cush? Medanites and Midianites, as above stated, are distinct. So 
Rosenmuller and Gesenius, which see, the former in loco Gen., the latter 
under Midian and Medan. 



418 



AMMONITES AND AMORITES. 



in the transaction which resulted in the sale of Joseph 
into Egypt, to Potiphar, being the three nearest of kin. 1 

We are now prepared to understand scriptural refer- 
ences to these tribes. On the sea, far south, was Edom. 
Coming up on the southeast of the sea, we enter Moab, 
and east of Moab was Midian, where Balaam lived. 
Still farther up the eastern coast of the sea, and north 
of Moab, was the country of the usurping Amorites, 
under Sihon, whose country was once entirely Moab's. 
This was north from the river Arnon (half-way up the 
Dead Sea) to the Jabbok, now Wady Zerka, a river about 
twenty miles north of our present position, and empty- 
ing into the Jordan on the west. Hence, though we call 
the mountains east of Jericho the mountains of Moab, 
they were really in the Amorites' territory. Still 
farther east, and northeast of the Amorites, was the 
territory of Amnion, Moab's brother. To the north of the 
Amorites, and northwest of the Ammonites, was the terri- 
tory of Og, King of Bashan. Now, looking at the point in 
the river east of us, referred to above, we see south of it 
Eeuben's territory, and north that of Gad, with the lofty 
peaks of Jebel es Salt, or Mountains of Gilead, but seen 
indifferently here, compared with the view from the moun- 
tains at Wady Kelt. The district of the half-tribe of Ma~ 
nasseh, that lay beyond Gad, cannot be seen, for a part 
of Gad ran along the Jordan quite to the Lake of Tiberias. 

Here we might ask, Where is the passage-point 
of the children of Israel? The very' form of the 



1 Gen. xxxvii. 27-36. 



THE NUMBERS OF THE ISRAELITES. 



419 



question suggests one probable cause for the variance 
on this subject. How many were there in this grand 
host which made the passage? Just before crossing 
the Jordan the number of fighting-men was 601, 7 3 0. 1 
Supposing each to be married, the number would be 
increased to 1,203,460; and, allowing an average of but 
one child to each family, the number would become 
1,805,190: now adding the Levites, of which there 
were 23,000 males alone, 2 the aged among the females. 
" the mothers in Israel," — for, according to Numbers, 3 
with the exception of four, all the men were young 
and in the prime of life, and, we will suppose, in fine 
health, — and making no further addition for captives 
except that of the 33,000 taken from the Midianites 
not long before, and we shall have a host so nearly 
amounting to 2,000,000 that we may safely base our 
conclusions on that number. If any should still 
object, we would remind them that, in this estimate, 
nothing is said of the countless numbers of animals 
following the Israelites, and of which they had just 
before taken more than eight hundred thousand, sheep, 
beeves, and asses, from the Midianites alone. With 
these statistics, we can arrive at a conclusion which 
adds great interest to this sublime and exciting 
scene in the history of the Israelites. From the 
account given in Joshua, (third and fourth chapters,) 
the host arose in the morning, completed the pas- 
sage, not only from Shittim 4 across the Jordan until 

1 Numb. xxvi. 51. 2 Numb. xxvi. 62. 3 Numb. xxvi. 63-65. 

4 A plural word signifying "acacias," and was probably not the name of a 
city, but a region of acacia-trees, making a delightful place for an encamp- 



420 



NO "POINT of passage." 



they were u clean passed over," but into the plain of 
Jericho, at least some distance from the banks, to the 
site of Gilgal, and then had time for considerable pre- 
paration and execution of work proposed by Joshua. 
This, we may suppose, occupied at the longest not 
more than half a day, or eight hours. Now, with 
these data before us, it appears that, so far from look- 
ing for a point or particular place of passage of the 
Israelites, we are to infer that the line of passage was 
not less than a mile, perhaps more, in length; and 
all suppositions heretofore made as to "points" and 
"fords" do not take into consideration the crowd and 
the haste; for they " hasted" to go over. If we suppose 
that lines of two thousand in number passed over at 
intervals of half a minute, then it would have required 
more than eight hours for the people to pass, and 
these lines (allowing but one and a half foot right and 
left of each person) would have extended considerably 
over one mile. A calculation making allowances for the 
irregularity of some, for the tents, baggage, and ani- 
mals, would increase the time from a half-minute to one 
minute for each line of two thousand ; and, as the time 
occupied is fixed, the line must be doubled to reach 
the same result, as an increase in space will compensate 
for loss of time. Therefore, the four thousand would 
also double the length of two thousand, and become a 

merit. It is not probable that Joshua would have made Shittim the same as 
the Siddim of Moses ; and their forms are too much in coincidence with cor- 
responding forms in the Arabic to suppose that the variation between the 
two words was accidental. Hence I conclude that Siddim and Shittim were 
two distinct places. 



SOME SUPPOSE A "SPOT." 



421 



line of passage considerably over two miles in extent. 
But, in order to a full and practical understanding 
of this passage, it must be borne in mind that it was 
"right against Jericho;" 1 and though the plain of 
Jericho may be meant, — as Gilgal was said to have been 
in the east border of Jericho, 2 — we shall see that there is 
a limit. Allowing but one yard square for each of the host 
to stand in, the whole number would require a place four- 
teen hundred and fourteen yards, or nearly three-quarters 
of a mile, square, and, with their necessary baggage, &c, 
fully one square mile. Therefore, they must not only 
cross the river, but average a further travel of a half- 
mile beyond. Mr. Yan de Velde says, " We know 
enough of Jericho to be certain that the pilgrims' 
bathing-place (which is about two miles north of the 
Dead Sea) is not the place of the passage, being too 
much to the north. By approaching the river from 
Jericho, with an easterly or east-southeasterly course, 
one would probably arrive at the identical place " z 

.Stanley says, " The exact spot is unknown. It cer- 
tainly cannot be that which the Greek tradition has 
fixed, where the eastern banks are sheer precipices 
of ten or fifteen feet high. Probably it was either 
immediately above or below where the cliffs break 
away. . . . Wherever it was, it must have been the 
largest river they had seen since they left the banks 
of the Nile." 4 

1 That is, negeth, " in full view of;" I suppose in fullest or nearest 
proximity to. — Gesenius. 

2 Joshua iv. 19. 3 Van de Velde, vol. ii. p. 272. 
4 Stanley's " Sinai and Palestine," p. 301. 



422 



THE TWELVE STONES SET UP. 



Dr. Stuart, in his " Tent and Khan," 1 seems to appre- 
hend in some degree the difficulty; for, speaking of the 
peak Sartabeh, which appears about eighteen miles north, 
he says, " I quite agree with him," (De Saulcy,) " how- 
ever, in his identification of Sartaba (or Sartabeh) as 
Zaretan, (Josh. iii. 16,) Zarthan, (1 Kings xii. 46,) and 
Zartanah, (1 Kings iv. 12,) of Scripture, where one of 
Solomon's purveyors dwelt, where vessels for the 
temple were cast in the clay ground, and where the 
waters of the Jordan were cut off for the passage of 
the Israelites. This I consider a really valuable dis- 
covery, as it proves that the Jordan was dried up for 
the space of twenty miles, so that the thousands of 
Israel could pass over it in a very short space of time." 
In this passage Dr. Stuart seems to have apprehended the 
difficulty of " only a point of passage" for such a multitude ; 
and yet, in supposing a latitude of twenty miles, two facts 
must be remembered; that they passed "right against Jeri- 
cho," and that it was not so far from the ark but that 
they could be guided by it, for " that ye may know the 
way by which ye must go," (Josh. iii. 4.) Both forbid the 
adoption of any such latitude as seems intimated by 
Dr. S. Dr. Robinson speaks of an early tradition, 
which fixes the spot, and resulted in the erection of a 
church and the setting up the twelve stones, five miles 
from Jordan, near the supposed site of Gilgal. These are 
described at the close of the seventh 2 and eighth 3 cen- 
turies, and the twelve stones are still mentioned in the 



1 P. 374. 2 Arculfus. 

3 St. Willibald. See Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 267. 



dr. robinson's view. 



423 



fourteenth century. 1 " In later times, Irby and Mangles 
remark that it would be interesting to search for £ the 
twelve stones' near the ford where they crossed, some 
distance above Jericho. But the circumstances of the 
scriptural narrative do not permit us to look so high up, 
nor, indeed, for any particular ford or point of passage, 
except for the passage of the ark. The channel was 
left dry, so that the people, amounting to more than 
two million of souls, were not confined to a single 
point, but could pass over any part of the empty 
channel directly from the plains of Moab toward 
Jericho. 2 " This coincides with what appears to be the 
correct history of the passage. It w^as all performed 
by two million in about half a day, or eight 
hours, " right against Jericho," not very far from the 
ark. The ark, borne by the priests, went down before 
the host, and in the sight of the thousands, about 
half a mile in advance, 3 till it entered, probably, the 
east of the singular bend in the Jordan already 
spoken of ; then " the feet of the priests that bore 
the ark were dipped in the brim 4 of the water, that 
the waters which came down from above stood and 



1 Rudulph de Suchem, cited in Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 267. 

2 Dr. Robinson's Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 267. 

3 Joshua iii. 4. Two thousand cubits, — eighteen inches the probable 
standard to the cubit, which would make it three thousand feet; but at 
twenty-one inches it would be but two-thirds of a mile: hence Stanley's 
calculation of about one mile is too great. See Stanley, 302. 

4 Brim is an Icelandish word, signifying the upper edge, as of a cup or 
vessel, and of a hat, because turned up. Brink, a Danish word, is used in 
the Geneva version. Brim seems more suitable. Vide Purver's translation 
of the above-mentioned passage. 



424 



MIRACLE AT THE JORDAN. 



rose up upon a heap very far from the city Adam, 
that is beside Zaretan; 1 and those that came down 
toward the sea of the plain, even the salt sea, failed, and 
were cut off: and the people passed over right against 
Jericho;" while "they that bare the ark stood firm on 
dry ground in the midst of Jordan." 2 This was a scene 
that lived for centuries in the hearts and songs of the 
people. Here was God's hand. It was no fable. 
" What aileth thee, thou Jordan, that thou wast driven 
back?" and the only response is in the solemn echo 
from those distant depths. " Tremble, thou earth, at 
the presence of the Lord, at the presence of the God 
of Jacob." 3 And my holiest joy is that there lives a 
God whose majesty and superiority to myself, his wor- 
shipper, is seen just in this, that He who had intelli- 
gence enough to invent and omnipotence sufficient to 
create a world like this, with its myriads of organisms, 
courses, and modes of action, should feel at liberty 
to use his own as he willed, and should make, if 
he chose, another mode of action for a time, though 
it be what, in our ignorance, we call a miracle. 
It is indeed none other than the glorious freedom 
which God chooses to exhibit when some insect, 

1 See p. 422. 

2 The word " rose up," in the Hebrew, signifies active elevation ; and 
Gesenius defines it by "surgere," from which our word "surge" comes, and 
very properly in this case, for the waters "parted" and ran up, gathering 
back upon the main height at Zaretan: hence, Ps. cxiv., "driven back." The 
word "cumi," spoken by our Saviour when he raised Jairus's daughter, 
(Mark v. 41,) is the word here used in the Hebrew form, and in Hebrew, 
Chaldeac, and Syriac means the same. 

3 Ps. cxiv. 5-7. 



REMOVING THE SHOE. 425 

like Mr. Hume, would spread his tiny web of skep- 
ticism in the hope to entangle some of God's glorious 
plans and purposes. No wonder the kings of the 
Amorites on the west of Jordan, though amid the moun- 
tain ridges and retreats, together with their neighbors 
the other Canaanites, were utterly sick at heart when 
they heard that " the Lord had dried up the waters 
of the Jordan from before the children of Israel, 
neither was there spirit in them any more." 1 Jericho 
was closely shut up, and none permitted to go in or 
out. Yet Joshua wandered not far off, perhaps exa- 
mining the walls, when he met a stranger with a drawn 
sword, who, not satisfied with his complete prostra- 
tion, commanded also the removal of his "shoe from 
off his foot," — which, by an interesting coincidence, 
is still the custom among the inhabitants. A Turk 
never removes the turban as a token of reverence, but 
frequently removes the shoe, especially on entrance 
into holy places. The Israelites crossed on the tenth 
day of the month Abib, signifying "green corn," and 
answering to March. 

On the 14th, at even, they commenced to keep the 
first passover in the land of promise. The next day they 
ate the corn of the land; and the morrow after the 
manna ceased to fall. They had been fed long enough ; 
and now, in the land of " milk and honey," they were 
to provide for themselves. The only city which would 
naturally be inquired after would be Jericho. 



1 Joshua v. 1. 
27* 



426 



HOUSE OF ZACCHEUS. 



I have an impression that there were three Jerichos, 
from the ruins to be met with stretching along from 
the point of our exit from the mountains to a point on 
the northwest, at the Fountain of Elisha, which we 
shall visit. The Jericho of the time of Joshua was 
probably a small town, very near the Fountain of 
Elisha; and in order to a more satisfactory under- 
standing, we now take a general view, and descend 
from our little tower, which is so sad a com- 
ment on the romance that lies couched in its name, 
"the Castle of Jericho." We would rather hide it 
under the less familiar term of Bordj-er-Biha, or 
Tower of Eriha. Perhaps we might be tempted to call 
it, with the tradition which even now obtains a hear- 
ing, "the House of Zaccheus," undoubtedly the same 
Zaccheus whose shortness of stature was made a 
blessing to him by attracting the attention of the 
Saviour, which resulted in that notable visit to his 
house. But, whether or not, the monks thought that 
so short a man, from the little they can gather as to his 
ambitious spirit, would have naturally built a tall house, 
it seems that the tradition carries us back no further 
than the fifteenth century, when (in 1479) it was 
first so called. Bahab's House, spoken of about the 
same time as somewhere nearer the fountain, has dis- 
appeared. 1 



1 Robinson, Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 295. 



THE WATERS HEALED. 



427 



CHAPTER XXI. 

RETURN FROM JORDAN FOUNTAIN OF ELI SUA. 

Descending, we remount our horses, and pass rapidly 
by the brush-heap walls of the town and by some tombs 
not far off. Little green and cheerful groups of trees ap- 
pear at a distance, as far off as trees can easily be distin- 
guished. After two miles' ride northwesterly, 1 we arrive 
at the Ain es Sultan, the "Fountain of Elisha," so called 
from the supposition that this was the fountain, near 
Jericho, which the prophet, after losing his master, 
restored to its sweetness. 2 There can be no reason to 
doubt that this is the spring which flowed into the 
city- for " Elisha went forth unto the spring of the 
waters," and healed it, and caused even the land to 
become fruitful which before was barren; and the 
rich verdure which follows its outgoings, the delicate, 
fringe-like beauty of the branches and graceful tendrils, 
so soft and slender and varied, as they crowd together 
running their roots and fibres into the stream, adding to 
the music of its waters beauty of scenery, all attest the last- 
ing power of those words of Elisha, "there shall not be 
from thence any more death or barren land," forming 
a beautiful commentary on the verses, "He turneth the 



1 North 36° west from tower. 



2 2 Kings ii. 19. 22. 



42S 



REMAINS AROUXD THE SPRING. 



wilderness into a standing water, and dry ground into 
water-springs. And there he maketh the hungry to 
dwell, that they may prepare a city for habitation." 1 
The spring is east of some mounds, which themselves 
are some minutes' walk from the foot of the bold cliffs 
of the mountain Kuruntal, or Quarantana, (" forty,") 
by tradition the mountain of our Saviour's forty days' 
temptation. At its head, it springs up in hundreds 
of little spots, each one of which throws up the sand. 
The water is quite clear and rather sweet, though at 
first taste slightly salt. These numerous little springs, 
in a wide basin, form, at the distance of one hundred or 
one hundred and fifty feet from the source, a stream 
two to three feet wide, with an average depth of about 
four inches, and running with a velocity and volume 
quite sufficient to turn a mill, though there are no- 
thing but ruins of mills near at hand. The spring 
seems once to have been carefully surrounded by 
stones, bearing the marks of antiquity in the manner 
in which they have been cut. The temperature of the 
water is seventy degrees, though pleasant to drink; 
and there are little fish sporting in the waters, which 
reminds us of Elisha's healing words, "there shall not 
be from thence any more death." Ruins and frag- 
ments of pottery are seen not far from the spring. A 
few minutes toward the mountain are remains of 
buildings and mills, bearing the name of Tawa- 
hin-es-Sukkar, or " sugar-mills." The ruins are 
massive, and were probably erected in the times of 



1 Ps. cyii. 35-36. 



SUGAR-CANE CULTIVATED. 



429 



the Crusades; for a writer, 1 who was in 1174 made 
Bishop of Tyre, speaks of an abundance of the sugar- 
cane growing near and around Tyre and north of it, upon 
which the Crusaders refreshed themselves during their 
toils, and which yielded a juice called zucra, (sugar,) 
which at that time was unknown in Western Europe. 
And another writer, 2 made Bishop of Akka about 
1220, relates that, in his time, it was cultivated exten- 
sively in this region, and that the hermits here lived upon 
it, accounting it the honey of John the Baptist. The 
process is described by him by which the cane, com- 
pressed, gives out a juice exceedingly sweet, (succo 
dulcissimo,) which, after being reduced by heat, yields 
" a honey," and then the substance zucra, (sugar.) 3 
Hence the origin of the word; and the above-mentioned 
method is that pursued upon the sugar-plantations at the 
present day in America. (See analysis in Appendix VI.) 

Biding south from the Ain es Sultan, along the base 
of the mountains, we continually pass ruins, loose rock, 
which increase very perceptibly near the Wady Kelt, 
where masses of confused ruins appear, walls and debris, 
fragmentary foundations, and pieces of reservoirs, — 
one exceedingly extensive, south of the brook, and 
which we passed on our first approach to the plain. 
This is probably more than six hundred feet long, the 
depth being uncertain from the sediment. It was 
probably intended to catch the winter-torrent water for 
the purposes of summer irrigation. There is scarcely any 

1 William of Tyre. 

2 Jacob de Vitry, from Rob. Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 293. 3 Ibid. 



430 



RUINS EVERYWHERE. 



definite limit to the ruins and rocks, none of which, as 
far as we could see, gave any idea of magnificence or 
architectural skill, though we looked even among the 
fragments used in more modern erections and taken as 
spoils from walls and masonry. Even on the way 
from Eriha to the fountain we passed evident founda- 
tions, and one plastered wall, a few inches above 
ground. Indeed, ruins are everywhere; and the im- 
pression haunts you, if you stop to entertain it a 
moment, that all Palestine is a weeping, mournful 
mass of ruins, solitary, — nay, fearful. 

There are scarcely any towns, or villages, or buildings, 
or khans, which do not speak of dismantled strength, 
faded glory, and Mien hopes. The curse, or prophecy, 
of the Saviour, " Behold, your house is left unto you 
desolate," is most emphatically, solemnly, morally, ful- 
filled. And often I am inclined to pass ruins without 
asking any thing about them: they are everywhere, 
everywhere. Not a day can you travel, though that 
day afford you but three hours' ride, without meeting 
ruins suggesting the saddening thought that the places 
which once knew inhabitants know them no more for- 
ever; and it is often in vain even to guess at their ancient 
names and limits. 

We now arrive at the brush gate of Eriha, — ever 
open, simply because there is nothing wherewith to 
shut it. Our horses are confined by cords to an iron 
spike driven into the ground, and we are introduced 
to our palace, with its mud surroundings. Finding 
it impossible to get inside accommodations, we sit 



THE PHANTOMS OF JERICHO. 



431 



under our brush-formed festoons, through which the 
rain finds easy access to our baggage and to ourselves. 
But we have left our tents, and bargained to be satisfied 
with the best we could find at Jericho; and, having long 
since become reconciled to any thing an Arab can live 
in or on, we make the best of our accommodations. 

We now survey the lodgings which are to be ours for 
to-night and to-morrow and the next day, and perhaps 
our head-quarters for some time. Our yard, or rather 
that portion of earth between our brush-heap and the 
next, is like all the rest of the town, and resembles more 
than any thing else the barn-yard of a negligent farmer. 
We all wonder where the cattle can be whose former pre- 
sence appears so positively indicated. But our master 
of ceremonies has already tumbled off our camp-stools 
and our little jointed table, and immediately prepares 
for our dinner, which, from some fatality, is never 
ready till near sunset. The entering herds now afford 
abundant answers to our previous question. Sheep 
with Roman noses and long, drooping ears, goats 
with a tame, woe-begone walk, which speaks of rocky 
travel and hard-earned meals, and other animals whose 
skeleton forms have hung thereon pliant hides, indi- 
cating, while they protect, their osteology most painfully, 
slowly gather in, and, like dirty phantoms, dissolve 
away here and there, disappearing behind the various 
corners, dirt-heaps, and crooks. Two or three, turning 
their pensive looks upon us, as if they pitied our outside 
misery, passed almost over our laps, and walked delibe- 
rately by us into the door-hole where were our host and 



432 



THE PEOPLE OF ERIHA. 



his descendants; and there they apparently met a 
hearty welcome from old and young. 

The people of Eriha are by character the worst 
class of Arabs, — the "smallest end" of their nation, 
morally and socially. They are the Ghawarineh 1 
Arabs, (or inhabitants of the Ghor, 2 ) who also live at 
the south and southeast of the Dead Sea. Every nation 
has its refuse : London has its Billingsgate, New York 
its " Five Points/' Palestine its Ghawarineh. Those on 
the plain of J ericho, more especially at the modern town 
of that name, are the meanest of the race, — Arabs who 
seem to have breathed into them the poisonous breath 
of the dead of Sodom and Gomorrah, which poison the 
sea, with all its saltness and gloom, could not destroy ; 
and in some districts they are as immoral as the ancient 
inhabitants of the Plain. They have neither activity 
enough to work nor courage enough to rob, and are 
despised by both classes, who actually farm their land 
and return them a small part as tax. 

The evening is cool, and it is nearly the last day of 
the year, 3 and, the sides of our " verandah" being open, 
the wind blows freely upon us, with a temperature at 
nine o'clock of 53°. After we have dined, our little 
band and the sheik — who has continued by me so cour- 
teously to-day — sit around their camp-fire in the dis- 
tance ; and my love of their songs and their tales, and 



x Pronounced Gaw-\va-ree-ney. 

2 The name given to the valley-region of Jordan and to a part of the 
crevasse below the Dead Sea. 

3 December £9. 



THE BEDOUIN NIGHT-CIRCLE. 



433 



a desire to reap the benefit of their speech, impel me 
to join them. I expect to make an extra draught upon 
their time and efforts to-morrow, and therefore think a 
little extra introduction to their attention advisable. 
Joining their circle, I soon found who were the quick- 
est and who were the leaders of "public sentiment," 
and, returning to my friends, I obtained our whole 
stock of cigars, amounting to four. These were 
sufficient for the purpose; and soon, though alone 
with my little Arab guard of twelve, I was made as 
much at home as any of them. Sitting on a bag on the 
left of the sheik, the curiosities were passed around to 
the four who seemed the most talkative. Then, inviting 
them to guess out their use, we had a scene of merriment. 

They are genuine Bedouins in appearance, and, though 
of a better class, possess much of the desert Bedouin in 
manners. They are dressed with the dark striped blanket, 
and the little cloth and cord around the head ; and though 
the sheik appears in clothing somewhat superior to the 
rest, yet he too has the same dark and restless eye 
as the less cultivated sons of the desert wherever 
they are seen. They often exhibit a shrewdness and 
originality of thought that seems strange in such uncul- 
tivated barbarians. My familiarity with them, sitting 
after their fashion and listening to their songs and 
their sportive conversation, and my apparent con- 
fidence in them, pleases them much ; and they treat me 
as one of their number. One takes a cigar and attempts 
to light it at the small end, but, tightly twisted, it 
refuses : it is as impracticable a subject as a stick. He 

28 



434 



MEMORIES OF LIEUTENANT LYNCH. 



is now shown how to manage the thing. Several catch 
the idea before him, but at last he himself is enlightened, 
and, after drawing hard at the tip end, a little faint smoke 
arises, and, with a quizzical look at the dim and minia- 
ture cloud, he sighs, " The distance is short, howadji, 
but the way is hard." All laugh, and another undertakes 
the experiment. The fire increases, and the smoke and 
the merriment warm all up to laughter. Every one passes 
a joke as the little lighted roll goes from mouth to mouth. 
" Taiyeeb taiyeeb Howadji," "it warmeth and pleaseth 
both the face and the nose and thus they smoke at two 
of the cigars, while the other two are retained unlighted. 

These fellows are a keen and courteous people, 
notwithstanding the piratical character sometimes 
given them, and which at times they seem to deserve. 
Some of our party remembered Howadji Lynch, and 
respected the people whence he came, though they 
scarcely knew them as distinguished from the Eng- 
lish. Lieutenant Lynch's prudence and remarkable 
tact in treating with their prejudices were as admirable 
as his courage, especially when courage would have 
been folly without discretion. As I sat in that little 
night-circle, around the brush fire, on the plains of the 
Jordan, and heard their tales of prowess and wit, and 
perceived their evident love of the wild marvels of past 
days, their good sense, — so far superior to the narrow 
scope of their present lives and desires, so free from the 
dogmatical ignorance of many in civilized circles, so will- 
ing to reason in their Oriental and figurative method, — 
the question suggested itself, Why is it that these men 



INDIFFERENCE TO RELIGION. 



435 



have become "guides" to the Christian in a temporal 
land, and yet seem such utter and irrevocable exiles in 
respect of things appertaining to the spiritual world, of 
which their land is an emblem ? They are not intelligent 
Mohammedans, nor are they pagans : they seem more 
like deists ; but even in that sense they have only a 
species of form, but no spiritual reality, no definite 
religion of any sort. 

The sheik spoke a rough Italian ; and when my 
little Arabic did not comprehend some idiom, he at- 
tempted to enlighten me with a little Italian interpre- 
tation, which at times aided exceedingly, though his 
Italian was as meagre as my colloquial Arabic. 

" See you those dark mountains yonder, on the other 
side of the river? Dare you take me there?" 

" Will your friends accompany you ?" 

" I don't know : I have but one friend, and I want to 
go, whether he will or not." 

"Your guide can't go there: the Beni Seitan [chil- 
dren of the evil one] live there, and you will be robbed, 
and probably shot." 

"I have heard that before; but if I cover myself 
with piastres won't they be shields against shot ?" 

"La, la ! suppose they take them off you ?" 

"But suppose I leave them at Jerusalem till you 
bring me back safe, and you tell the Beni Seitan that 
you will pay for me ?" 

"They would rather gain it by force: robbery is 
sweeter than friendship." 



436 



ATTEMPTS TO TRAVEL 



AMONG BEDOUINS. 



"Then I will travel poor; and I will be your hakir, 
(doctor,) and you shall be my friend. I will trust you." 
"We will see." 

But, though I feel now that I could have gone, and 
though I still hope to do so, if spared to return, I never 
heard more of the plan, which was considered impracti- 
cable. I am confident that a proper course would yet 
introduce a traveller into that strange land, of which 
so little is known. The Arabs, as I found out, fre- 
quently come over the river and remain long enough 
to make acquaintances ; and, although there is little de- 
pendence to be placed upon their knowledge of localities, 
there are chances to gain friendships, or to offer attrac- 
tions or sufficient security to obtain entrance. Professor 
Koth, who was lately in Jerusalem attending upon a 
member of one of the tribes near Kerak, east of the 
Dead Sea, has had the promise, "Please God, if I get 
well, you and I will go over that region. I will protect 
you." What the result is, I have not heard. 

The first travellers east of the Jordan to any extent 
have been Seetzen, whose name in Arabic was Hakir 
Musa, (Doctor Moses,) for he travelled under a feigned title 
and thus made his way through the tribes : yet, having 
travelled down the east of the J ordan and Dead Sea, and 
around to Jerusalem, he met his death in Arabia by 
poison, in 1811. Burckhardt assumed the dress and 
pretended to be a Mohammedan, and, notwithstanding, 
was robbed frequently. His knowledge oi the Arabic and 
imitation of their manners were admirable, and many in 
Cairo took him to be a genuine Mohammedan, until, just 



DISAGREEABLE COMPANY. 



437 



before his death, he expressed his regret that he had thus 
dissembled, and requested that he should not be buried 
as a Mohammedan. He died suddenly at Cairo, in 1817. 
Irby and Mangles travelled, in 1817 and 1818, through 
this region, depending upon rapidity and adequate pro- 
tection, and gained much information, which, I think, 
was only printed for private distribution. 1 

Our little company soon dropped off to sleep, each 
not far from the fire, and I retired to my little 
portable cot under the brush shed. Alas! my cot, 
though small, has been fully occupied before me, and 
my bloodthirsty bed-mates bite with great zeal: they 
also are genuine Beni Seitan. But it is useless to at- 
tempt any defence at this late hour, and memory com- 
forts us with the recollection that a little patience and 
endurance will satisfy them : we no longer envy the 
animals we saw walking in at the door to sleep with 
the family, although we were exposed to the wind and 
rain; and, drawing over us our tarpaulin coat, we 
exclude the rain-drops falling fast through the bushes, 
and, including ourselves and company, are soon asleep. 

1 Appendix to Rob. Bibl. Res., (authors;) a copy is in the Roy. Geog. 
Soc. Library, London. 



438 



ALARMING THE NATIVES. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

JERICHO — DOMESTIC LIFE — VISIT TO THE DEAD SEA. 

I had brought with me a little alarm-clock, not 
much larger than a watch; and often in my lonely 
travels in Europe it awakened me to an early start 
when otherwise I should have overslept myself. Wish- 
ing to have a morning's visit in and about Eriha, my 
little sentinel was placed on the table before retiring, 
and merrily ticked away till about daylight, when its 
terrific rattle sounded the alarm in Jericho, and I was 
scarcely up before it appeared that all the town was 
awake. Had my friend — who lay most obstinately 
covered up and asleep — only risen before the tumult 
was allayed, he might well have supposed that there 
had been a descent upon the town of all manner of 
forms and figures staring in upon our retreat, — sleepy 
and dirty, and some naked as "cherubim in church- 
pictures." But, arranging my toilet, an act chiefly com- 
prehended in putting on boots, coat, and hat, I picked 
up the source of alarm, and, stopping its little rattle, 
soon disappeared, glad that something seemed to 
have stirred these lazy Ghawarineh. Hanna laughed at 
the alarm, and explained in my absence how the little 



OLD-FASHIONED MILLS. 



439 



genius followed me in my travels and woke me at any 
time. He had first heard it at Sarepta, when we were 
aroused to our early start for Tyre. 

Passing in among the flocks and their owners, and 
along the streets, (if they can be called such,) I 
counted forty-seven huts, hovels, or houses, and should 
think that about a man to a house, a woman, and two 
children of any age you may choose to imagine, will 
give to modern Jericho, the town of Eriha, its quota 
of population, — namely, not quite two hundred inhabit- 
ants. There is some show of work. One or two are pre- 
paring corn after the old method of turning one round 
stone upon another, before which they sit or squat, 
pouring in corn with one hand and holding on to a peg 
in the stone with the other. The surface of the lower 
stone is convex, and that of the upper concave; 
hence they retain their relative positions while in use. 
One mill seems to be the property of several families, 
and generally requires but one hand. Probably they 
were larger in former times, and required two at a 
mill. These single mills are about twenty-seven 
inches in diameter, and produce a low, " husky" noise, 
reminding us of the description in Holy "Writ, 1 
and of the antiquity of the machine; for in Egypt 
it was said that "the maid-servant" sat "behind 
the mill." 2 I have never seen men engaged at 
it. "Two women shall be grinding at the mill: the 
one shall be taken and the other left;" that is, not- 



1 Jer. xxv. 10. 



2 Exod. xi. 5. 



440 



CHURNING BY SHAKING. 



withstanding their nearness to each other and the 
sameness of act, while thus engaged, one shall sud- 
denly disappear, leaving the other untouched. 1 




•WOMAN CHURNING. 



But the churning is a novelty even to those who 
have seen it previously performed. It requires most ener- 
getic exercise, of which those using the modern churns 
know nothing. But it is most lazily performed here, quite 
in keeping with the indolence that reigns. A goat- 



1 Matt. xxiv. 41 ; Luke xvii. 35, — where the ettI to ahro may simply mean 
at one place, and not necessarily at one mill. 



JERICHO BUTTER. 



441 



skin, stripped from the head and legs of the animal, 
with some hair still clinging to its surface, serves as the 
churn. Half filled with milk, and tied by the neck to 
a post of the tent or hut, it is jerked and beaten to 
and fro till the butter is fairly shaken out of it. In 
other places, where the habits of the people permit 
a little more enterprise, two sit on opposite sides of 
one skin, alternately beating and striking the skin, as 
if in a fierce fight, till the butter, developed by the 
smiting, can be separated from the milk. If the skin 
is not in fault, the butter, though white, is considered 
quite passable, — especially as it is in a country where 
the natives often use bread dipped in oil, and are 
of course not particular as to the butter. This is, 
indeed, among the Arabs, especially the Bedouins, the 
only method of "making the butter come." From some 
after-visions, I had a creeping sensation that suggested 
an immediate order to Hanna to serve at breakfast no 
Jericho butter; for, notwithstanding my philosophy, 
which attempted to force into me the belief of the chemi- 
cal cleanliness of the " ultimate atoms" of which all 
matter is composed, my rebellious " inner man" refused 
the "compounds;" and, though a description of the dairy 
caused a laugh at the discomfiture of others, I saw to 
it that our meal was free from any contaminating intro- 
duction from the stores of Jericho. 

The people here are almost a separate race from all 
around, and, as I have intimated, are despised by all. 
The women have not modesty enough to wear the 
"mendel," or hardly any dress at all; and the men 

29* 



442 



CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS. 



seem careless in view of the infidelity of their wives, 
provided they are not forced to put their lazy bodies to 
the exertion of punishing them. And thus they often 
exhibit themselves in immodest dances and dresses for 
a little reward from such Franks as may choose to look 
upon a scene of the sort. The miasm from the sins of 
the buried Sodomites seems to find a resurrection and 
absorption into the social life of these people, who 
transmit the virus to their children. I should consider 
them, in point of virtue, the most perfect antipodes to 
the Bethlehemites, and perhaps a few of the higher 
classes in the Lebanon Mountains. 

At eight o'clock this morning (with the thermome- 
ter in the shade at 54°) we mounted our horses, 
(which had not even been relieved from their saddles, 
during the night,) and, accompanied by our sheik and 
a few Arabs, set out for the Dead Sea. The plain is 
light-colored, with considerable clay and scattered 
vegetation. About half a mile from the shore of 
the sea, the land becomes abruptly lower; and 
many steep but small hills appear as if washed 
down by some great flood. There are no signs 
of lava or scoria similar to what may be found near 
Tiberias; and, with the exception of a fragment at 
Eriha, I have seen no volcanic specimens. The soil 
generally resembles that which exists at the Hill of Sa- 
maria, modified only by causes due to proximity to 
the sea, which seems a sufficient cause for any chemical 
variations, the geological "rock/' as far as we could 
see or examine, not presenting any differences. The 



WATERS OF THE DEAD SEA. 



443 



birds are flying in flocks quite near us, and some en- 
tirely across the sea, without the least apparent 
inconvenience. In precisely two hours we have com- 
pleted a ride from Eriha, in a course nearly due south- 
east, to the mouth of the Jordan, — a distance of about 
eight miles. Behind us a shower obscures the valley- 
horizon; but toward the south we can distinctly see, 
like an island, the peninsula which shoots out from its 
eastern coast, from twenty to twenty-five miles off. 
The wind is light ; and yet the waves roll in upon the 
shore quite freely with a surf. On our left is an 
island about fifty or sixty feet from the shore, and not 
more than about twenty feet in diameter, which becomes 
a part of the mainland in the summer, and there is an- 
other on our right. These islands are covered with rocks 
which might be taken for ruins, and have been subject to 
changes in size ; and they are found not only in the mouth 
of the Jordan, forming a complete delta there, but along 
the shore, and vary in accordance with the rise and fall 
of the sea due to rains. The waters naturally are 
of a light grayish blue; but here the Jordan discolors 
them far out from the shore as it presses into the heavier 
waters, leaving a clear blue streak to its right and left. 
Taking up some of the water in my hand, I tasted it, 
with the expectation of finding the water salt in the 
extreme: nor was I disappointed, but startled on the 
first impression with a sensation similar to that which one 
suffers on taking dilute sulphuric acid into the mouth; 
and the bitter, sour, and stinging sensation did not leave 
me for some time. And yet the water here could not have 



444 



DESCRIPTION OF THE SEA. 



been purely the Dead Sea water, as it was evidently tinged 
by that of the Jordan. Wishing to proceed along the 
shore to the west, I obtained the sheik for rny guide, 
and, leaving the rest to return, we kept on, skirting 
the sea on the north, and soon finding a bolder 
shore, lined with pebbles, where I could satisfy myself 
as to the buoyancy of the waters. On entering the 
sea I experienced none of the stinging sensations 
some have described, but rather a softness, — something 
akin to what might be expected from a bath in the 
finest sweet oil; and, on trusting myself to the buoy- 
ancy of the water, I found that, lying on my back, I 
could keep afloat without any trouble whatever. Al- 
though the waves that rolled by me lifted me up 
apparently twelve or fifteen inches, yet over these I 
floated as free from fear of sinking as if on a bed. The 
temperature of the water was 66°, and that of the air 74°, 
the latter taken in the sun. The temperature of the sea 
varies with the depth of the water and its proximity to 
the shore, as we afterward proved in several places. 

Obtaining an elevated site at the most northern point 
of the sea, west of the Jordan, we have a fine view of the 
surrounding country. Looking southward, there is the sea 
before us, whose waters are far from leaving the impression 
of terror or sadness attributed to them by some writers. 
On either side rise mountains, whose shadows and heights 
give an air of quiet grandeur to the scene. Birds are 
flying calmly over its face, and the wind drives up 
cheerful, dashing waves, which give back sunny gleams 
as naturally as upon any lake, At our feet are large 



NORTHLANDS OF THE SEA. 



445 



masses of limestone pebbles, slight reed-stalks, and 
some large fragmentary portions of plants and trees, 
but none of the variegated shells of the shore of Ti- 
berias. About six and a half miles off, in a direction 
south-southwest, projects a wild-looking headland 
running boldly down to the shore and apparently 
directly into the water. This is the Eas el Fesh- 
khah. From that point the headlands, parting from 
the shore, run with a concavity to the Wady Kelt, 
twelve or thirteen miles from the Eas, leaving a plain 
which lies between the northwest shore of the sea and 
the Eas el Feshkhah, and spreading out to the north 
just as if the handle of a half-opened fan lay at the 
foot of the Eas and the rest of it stretched north to the 
top of the sea. Much of this land appears salt and 
barren and torn by rents; and from its surface the 
Arabs take incrustations of salt, supposed to be deposited 
by spray from the sea and from evaporation. 

In a direction almost due southwest 1 is the spring Ain 
Feshkhah, which is spoken of as copious, but sulphuret- 
ted, and surrounded by ruins. These ruins Dr. Eobinson 
notices as simply "the foundations of a small square 
tower and of other small buildings ;"- but De Saulcy 
thinks them very interesting, without any further 
illustration of his assertion. 3 About two miles north 
of this spring commence ruins which M. de Saulcy 
supposes to be the ruins of Gomorrah, — and described 
by him as extending six thousand yards, forming 



1 S. 40° W. 2 Bibl. Res. vol. ii. p. 252. 3 Vol. ii. p. 46. 



446 



RUINS OF GOMORRAH. 



a continuous mass, and bearing the Arab name of 
Kharbet Goumran, or Oumran, which he identifies 
with the Hebrew of Gomorrah. We did not get 
near enough to form an opinion in reference to 
the ruins themselves; but, if the guide of Dr. Stuart, 
of Leghorn, who visited what he supposed to be the 
place, did not deceive him, "the plateau is five 
hundred feet at least above the level of the Wady 
Goumran, which runs immediately to the south of it, 
and, as far as one could judge by the eye, eight hun- 
dred feet above the level of the sea, which is a couple 
of miles distant as the crow flies." 1 The ruins, Dr. S. 
says, are insignificant, and he thinks he was not mis- 
taken either as to the place or height, from which the 
Ain Feshkhah could be seen about two miles south. 
Though I examined this region with a fine glass, and 
the day was exceedingly clear, I do not think any such 
examination could yield satisfactory results; nor am I 
satisfied, from Dr. Stuart's description of the route to the 
spot he visited, that it coincides with M. de Saulcy's itine- 
rary to that spot which the latter calls the ruins of Goum- 
ran. Notwithstanding his assertion "that one hundred 
successive travellers might pass them by without the 
slightest idea of their existence," 2 it is strange that such 
extensive ruins as those described by M. de Saulcy, stretch- 
ing for three miles (six thousand yards) along the coast, 
could have escaped the notice of travellers. " The only 
thing that remains entire," (says Dr. Stuart, who exa- 



1 " Tent and Khan," p. 383. 2 M. de Saulcy's Travels, vol. ii. p. 47. 



THE RUINS. 



447 



mined what he supposed to be the place in March, 1854, 
" though of the same age as the ruins, is a birket (pool) 
about thirty feet in length, the interior of which is still 
covered with cement, like those about Jerusalem. . . . 
A double row of stones, two feet apart, runs from the 
hill behind to the cistern, and has served as a rude 
aqueduct to convey water." Dr. Stuart then supposes 
that the ruined fortress with several chambers, which 
also appears in the same place, may be referred to the 
age of Herod, who resided in Jericho and built fortresses 
in the neighborhood, or that it may have been built by the 
Komans while besieging Massada, which is farther south, 
at the present Sebbeh, thirty miles below. 1 Upon a 
view, only with my glass, I am inclined to think that, 
possibly, the supposed ruins may have been nothing 
more than broken and abraded fragments and boul- 
ders, vast masses of which we frequently noticed, 
and which might, with a little imagination, be sup- 
posed to be ruins. On our right, a little south of 
west from our position, is a mountain-top, bearing 
upon its summit a monument to Mohammedan igno- 
rance and credulity, in that it is said to be the Moslem 

1 Dr. Stuart, as if in doubt that the above was satisfactory, further re- 
marks, "According to M. de Saulcy's own showing, Strabo mentions two 
fortresses which guarded the passes in these hills, called Threx and Taurus, 
which were destroyed by Pompey ; and it is very probable that the ruins 
belonged to one of them," (p. 384.) But, in reference to De Saulcy, (vol. 
ii. p. 29,) the impression Dr. Stuart seems to have received is not quite sus- 
tained by the text of M. de Saulcy. He quotes Strabo (bk. xvi.) as defi- 
nitely speaking of the " two fortresses situated in the defiles leading to the 
entrance of Jericho," and therefore " these hills" will not answer to the 
ones described by M. de Saulcy, which have reference to the entrances 
(etg fiolaiq) to Jericho. — Strabo, xvi. 1106. 



448 



NEB Y MUSA. 



mosque and tomb of him of whom it is written, "no 
man knoweth of his sepulchre unto this day." 1 So 
elevated is the mountain-summit that its cragged sides 
and top may be seen from a distance of several miles 
north and south. 

No collection of water has exercised the ingenuity, 
the wonder, the superstition, the scientific speculation, 
of the world to an equal extent with the waters of the 
Dead Sea. Before we state our own impressions, we 
present a summary of the most interesting notices of 
these mysterious waters still " sleeping upon their 
ancient beds of crystal salt," — or, rather, this corpse of 
a sea lying in its open sepulchre. 



1 Deut. xxxiv. 6. 



EARLY NOTICES, 



449 



CHAPTER XXIIL 

NOTICES OF THE DEAD SEA. 

The first notice that we have of this sea suggests that 
it partook in some degree of its present character in the 
earliest historical times. " The salt sea" is its first intro- 
duction in Gen. xiv. 3. But as this was written by Moses, 
and reads thus, "in the vale of Siddim, which is the salt 
sea" we are reasonably led to suppose that the vale of 
Siddim, in the time of the battle of the nine kings, is in 
some respects the same thing as the Salt Sea of the time 
of Joshua; for, in the verse immediately preceding, a 
sentence of the same construction occurs in this form : 
"King of Bela, which is Zoar ;" and Bela is therefore con- 
sidered the old name, Zoar being the modern. Hence, 
with equal force, Salt Sea must in some respects be the 
modern name of Yale of Siddim. For fourteen hundred 
years very little is said of the sea. There was a shrink- 
ing from its shores as far as respects both animal and 
vegetable life, and, consequently, but little interest in this 
region. And though reference is made eight times to it, 
distinctly, as the Salt Sea, yet an unusual silence reigned 
around it for centuries, as if it were the shame of the land ; 
and none referred to it, save as a mere boundary, until the 
time of Ezekiel, who made it the subject of a prophecy as 

29 



460 



STRABO'S ACCOUNT. 



strange as even the waters themselves, — a prophecy that 
from En-gedi, (the fountain of kids and goats,) twenty- 
three miles south from the mouth of the Jordan, on 
the west coast, to En-eglaim, (fountain of the calves, 1 ) 
it should be a place to spread nets and catch fish, whose 
numbers shall be exceedingly great. 2 Strabo, writing 
B.C. 40, 3 describes it with an air of mystery, and with 
some statements as to its size which considerably 
exceed the true measurements. He speaks of the great 
depth of the sea, which he calls a lake, and of the 
unusual heaviness of the waters, such that any one 
going in as far as the w^aist is immediately raised up. 
But his account of its formation is peculiar. 

" Bitumen," says Strabo, " is an ingredient in the 
soil of the land, which, heated, becomes liquid, and flows 
out until it is hardened by coming into water, which 
cools it into solidity." Sodom, according to this writer, 
was the metropolis of twelve cities; and, the earth 
beneath being full of fire, (sfmvpov,) they were up- 
heaved, and burned by flames which exhaled from the 
earth. The Egyptians use the bitumen in embalming 
their dead. He makes a distinction between the liquid 
oil from the bitumen, which he says " was called 
naphtha or naphtha," and the solid pitch, which he 

1 Position unknown, but placed in Moab, near the mouth of the Jordan, 
by Jerome. — Kind's Encyclopedia. 2 Ezek. xlvii. 10. 

3 Strabo was a clear and accurate geographer. He died about the close of 
Tiberias's reign, a.d. 40, precise year unknown. He was author of a work, 
"De Rebus Geographis," in seventeen books, — was of noble and ancient 
family and carefully educated. The best edition of his works is that of 
Amsterdam, 1707, 2 vols, folio, — valuable for its notes and epitome. See 
Strabonis Vita, ab J. Casaubono, prefix, edit. Strabon., Amst., 1707. 



MYSTERIES OF THE SEA. 



451 



calls bitumen or asphalturn. With the former Alexander 
caused a bath to be filled, and, having put a boy into the 
same, applied a lamp, when the boy immediately took 
fire; and it was only with great difficulty and by the ap- 
plication of great quantities of water that the fire was 
quenched. This, he very philosophically tells us, he 
did for the sake of an experiment. 1 Tacitus 2 asserts 
that those who could not swim, alike with those who 
could, were borne up upon its waters. And Aris- 
totle 3 and Pliny, 4 with descriptions, make scientific 
speculations upon it as a mysterious phenomenon. 
Josephus adds some information, describes some facts 
and mystifies some others. Vespasian commanded 
some who could not swim to be cast in having had 
their hands tied behind them ; but they floated, being 
"forced upwards." Josephus says the color of the lake 
changes thrice a day, and casts up " black clouds of 
bitumen in many parts of it;" and when the tradesmen in 
the vicinity of the lake come to the mass, and catch hold of 
it as it hangs together, and draw it into the boat, they 
are forced to resort to unusual methods of separating it. 
It was used then medically, as now, by the monks at Mt. 
Saba Convent, and also for calking ships. Josephus sup- 
poses that the Dead Sea covers what was once a happy 
land, but which was scorched by lightning. 5 He after- 
wards speaks of the devastating effect of the thunderbolt 
and the burning of the country, and of the pillar into 



1 Strab. Geog., xvi., Amst, 1707, pp. 1305-1309. 

2 Hist. V. C. 3 Meteorol., ii. 3. 

4 Plin. N. H., v. 12. 5 Wars of the Jews, bk. iv. viii. 4. 



452 PILLAE OF SALT. 

which Lot's wife was turned, which he asserts, on his own 
observation, was still standing when he was writing the 
Antiquities of the Jews, 1 which was published a.d. 93. 2 
Whether Josephus's eyes deceived him or not, he was not 
the only one who has seen a pillar there. Clement of Kome, 
contemporary with Josephus, attests to the same sight ; 
and, in the next century, Ireneeus goes so far as to attempt 
to account for the preservation of the limbs of a salt statue 
for so long a time. 3 Some doubts seem to hang about the 
accounts of travellers afterward as to the existence of 
this uncertain pillar, until the time of Lieutenant Lynch, 
who describes a similar pillar, three miles north of the 
southern extremity and near the base of the mountain- 
ridge, called Usdum. Here he saw a pillar of salt, cylin- 
drical toward the sea, and attached to the land behind by 
a kind of prop. It was forty feet in height, and rested on a 
pedestal, which was itself from forty to sixty feet above 
the level of the sea. Slightly decreasing upward, it is 
capped with crumbling soil at the top, and is one entire 
mass of crystallization. 4 This was on the 26th April, 1848. 5 
Still later, (Jan. 12, 1851,) this part of the sea was 
visited by M. de Saulcy. From his account, the lapse of 
not quite three years had changed its appearance exceed- 
ingly ; and, in the place of one column, vast pyramidical 
columns of salt appeared in many places, one of which 
he has " no doubt has been taken by Captain Lynch for 



1 Antiq. of Jews, bk. i. xii. 4. , 

2 Preface of Josephus, where the authority is given by Whiston. 

3 Whiston's note to Antiq. of Jews, bk. i. xii. 4. 

4 Lynch, Dead Sea and Jordan, p. 307. 5 P. 305. 



CHANGES OF THE SALT COLUMNS. 



453 



the famous pillar into which Lot's wife was transformed 
at the time of the destruction of Sodom. ... As to the 
pillar mentioned by Captain Lynch, it resembles any 
thing you please excepting the hill of Sodom." 1 M. de 
Saulcy is unfortunate in his excessive freedom from all 
doubt in reference to Captain Lynch, as the latter gives 
no reason to suppose that he considered the column the 
actual remains of Lot's wife : otherwise M. de Saulcy's 
observation, in reference to the constant changes to 
which these salt detachments are subject, is sustained 
by the constant variances of writers when describing 
at different times the salt ridges in this place. 

Van de Velde, a little more than a year later, (March, 
1852,) gives us the last account, and remarks that 
" the isolated salt pillar of Lieutenant Lynch I did not 
see; at all events, nothing corresponding to the plate 
inserted in his book. ... Of isolated masses, detached 
from the main rock, I saw, nevertheless, many." 2 

Thus the mass of testimony, from the earliest history 
of this place, seems to indicate that the only salt moun- 
tain, or embankment, out of which any such column 
could have been formed, was at the southwest extremity 
of the sea, near the Mountain of Salt, called also the 
Khashm Usdum, — the former word signifying " cartilage 
of the nose," 3 — being a mass of rock-salt, running 
south-southeast for about five miles, and not rising 
to a greater height than two hundred feet, at a distance 
from the sea of about an average of half a mile. Fretted 

1 M. de Saulcy, vol. i. p. 218. 2 Vol. ii. p. 124. 

3 Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 481. 



454 



CAUSES OF FORMATION. 



by fitful showers and storms, its ridge is exceedingly 
uneven, and its sides carved out and constantly changing, 
so that the testimonies, however at variance in reference 
to the shapes and columns apparent along the lapse of 
many centuries, may be reconciled by a knowledge of the 
nature of the material itself, and each traveller might 
have a new pillar to wonder over at intervals of only a 
few years. This opinion is sustained by Dr. Anderson 
in the official report of his geographical examination 
of this mountain-ridge, where he speaks of the unequal ra- 
pidity with which these singular conformations appear. 1 
The general form of these pillars is conical, 
and resembling this shape particularly when seen 
from the sea ; " the spur, w r hich seems like a 
sugar-loaf when seen in front, losing entirely this 
appearance when viewed from either side or from 
above. A considerable depression is sometimes found 
at the bridge of the knoll," (or at the part which con- 
nects the cone or column with the mountain ;) but this 
depression, upon which the insulation of the column 
would depend, is rare, because the material behind 
it is frequently even less soluble than the material 
of the column itself; and in such a case it will 
remain connected with the mountain, from which other- 
wise it would be separated as an entire pillar stand- 
ing out alone. " Of these," says Dr. A., " there can be 
little doubt that some may be found at this moment in 
existence, though our time did not permit us even to 
search for them. From the soluble nature of the salt 



1 Official Rep. Geolog., p. 181. 



EARLY PROOFS OF ITS SALTNESS. 



455 



and the crumbling looseness of the marl, (which is 
commingled with the salt and sometimes covers it,) it 
may well be imagined that, while some of these needles 
are in the process of formation, others are being washed 
away, and more of them have probably been demolished 
than remain to be carved out of the block which is left." 
The nearest aj>proach to the cylindrical form was met 
with in the one already spoken of, and which Captain 
Lynch has accurately described in his narrative ; but 
even that, as the description implies, "was filled out 
behind by a low ridge connecting the apparent pillar with 
the general mass." 

The earliest observer has left the testimony that the 
Dead Sea, or the Bahr Lut or Sea of Lot of the Arabs, 
was a salt sea at a period not later than 1450 B.C. 1 
Furthermore, the translation, as in the original text, 
plainly asserts that before the destruction of Sodom and 
Gomorrah there was a state of wholesome irrigation, 
which did not exist after that destruction. Any under- 
standing whatever leads most distinctly to the conclusion 
that the historian, speaking of the choice which Lot 
made of the country of his after-residence, had based 
that choice upon an irrigation of the land, and a cor- 
responding beauty and fertility, which in the writer's view 
caused it to resemble the Garden of the Lord, (Eden,) and 
Egypt; and then, as if some violent contrast demanded 

1 That is, on the ground that Genesis was -written by Moses between the 
time of the departure of the children of Israel and the time he conquered 
the Amorites after his view of the sea: else it was communicated by 
inspiration,— which would add to the value of the testimony. 



456 FIRST MEASUREMENTS: 

an adequate cause, he brings in immediate connection the 
remark, " before the Lord destroyed Sodom and Gomor- 
rah." 1 Hence we are led to infer that the Salt Sea was 
either in itself or immediate vicinity materially different 
before the ruin of those cities, especially as the plain itself 
was subjected to a distinct destruction; for, we are told, 
" he overthrew those cities, and all the plain, and all the 
inhabitants of the cities, and that which grew upon the 
ground." 2 And to this, doubtless, the Psalmist refers 
when he says, "He turneth rivers into a wilderness, and 
water-springs into dry ground; a fruitful land into barren- 
ness, for the wickedness of them that dwell therein," 3 — 
where the word translated "barrenness" is essentially 
the same as that used to describe the sea as "salt." "A 
fruitful land into saltness" is the exact meaning. 4 

MEASUREMENTS OF THE DEAD SEA. 

The first reliable measurements made by the American 
expedition in 1848 increased our information both in a 
positive and negative sense. They added to the stock 
of meteorological and other scientific facts, some of 
which had been obtained during years of hazardous 
exposure to climate and to robbery ; and they ex- 
hibited how little definite knowledge and how 
much superstition existed within the geographical 

1 Gen. xiii. 10. ^ 2 Gen. xix. 25. 3 Ps. cvii. 33, 34. 

i H7 *<D auc ^ H Pf 1 *? D7- The latter word varies from the former in the prefix 
^ and the affix Jf, an( i they are unimportant, as the signification of the radical 
word would be the same in each form. The latter gives a reason for the 
translation (Saxon) " salt marsh." — Crit. trans. Anthony Purver in loco. 



CORRECT MEASUREMENT. 



457 



treasures of antiquity. Strabo estimated the circum- 
ference of the sea at 114 miles, and the breadth at 23. 1 
Josephus says it was 66 § in length and 171 broad. 2 

None anciently arrived at the true measurements; 
these were reserved for modern times, which, accord- 
ing to the measurement of the party sent out 
by the American Government, are. in April 26, — 
when the sea may be considered to be near its 
maximum extent. — 46 miles in its greatest length and 
9 J in the greatest width, at the Ain Turabeh, a point 
fifteen miles south of the Jordan. When the rains are 
heavy, and at the close of the rainy season, the sea 
extends south some miles beyond its summer limits ; 
hence the date of measurement is important. The 
most singular feature of this lake is the tongue of land 
running into it on the east from the land of Moab and 
six miles across its narrow neck. It covers about forty 
square miles of land entirely within the regular lines 
of the shore. Including the coast of this tongue of 
land ; the circumference of the sea is nearly 123 miles, 
but. continuing the line across the neck, it will be about 

1 Strabo, Geog. xvi. p. 1309. Amsterdam, 1707 ; stadiorum mille in length, 
200 stadia in width. The Roman mile— from mille, (1000,) referring to the 
number of geometrical paces (passus) of five Roman feet each — consisted of 
5000 Roman feet of 11.6496 inches each, equal to 1618 English yards 
to the Roman mile, (m.p. mille passuum,) the English mile being 1760 yards. 
As the stadia is the eighth part of a Roman mile, and equal to the furlong 
of some translations, it must be reckoned at 606| feet English. Thus, the 
furlong and stadium are interchangeable terms in translation ; and, as the 
Roman mile is the mile adopted by Eusebius and Jerome, the furlongs and 
stadia are Roman. Smith's Diet, of Greek and Roman Antiq., art. 
' : Milliare," and Kitto, Encyc, art. ''Mile." 

2 Bell. Jud.. iv. ch. viii. 4 : 580 furlongs long, 150 broad. 

29* 



458 



CROSS-SECTION OF THE SEA. 



105. There are several positions on the northwest and 
west coast from which a fair sight of the peninsula can be 
had, so as to enable one to form a generally correct idea of 
its height; and, judging only from such an examination, 
aided by my glass, I should suppose that the peninsula is 
nearly level with some low hills, probably skirting it 
upon the water ; though at a distance, yet a comparison 
with the mountains on either side on the coast of the sea 
leaves the impression, when we compare the heights of 
the ridges on the peninsula with those on the shores, 
that the hills of the peninsula are probably not much 
more than sixty or eighty feet high, which is about the 
height given by Dr. Anderson. 1 The measurements of 
the sea-floor can best be represented by a diagram, which 
has been prepared from the most reliable authorities, in 
connection with the measurement of the official report of 
Lieutenant Lynch. The relative heights are in all respects 
observed throughout, and the proportional lengths; but 
the relation of length to height could not be exhibited on 
so small a scale. A tree marks the mouth of the Jordan, 
and the water southward terminates at the north end 
of Jebel Usdum. Though this mountain (the salt moun- 
tain spoken of above) commences at a point about two 
and a half miles north of its represented position, it 
defines the sea better where it is. The peninsula is 
represented nearly in the middle, and the mountains of 
Moab to the eastward, though at a distance of ten miles. 
The names of various places on either shore are given, 
which may be distinguished by use of the map. From 



1 See Official Report, p. 185. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE SECTIONAL PLAN. 459 



the termination of Jebel Usdum to the peninsula it is ten 
miles ; and this will give a scale which will serve in other 
measurements. The height of the mountain (Usdum) is 
about one hundred and fifty feet, and that of the penin- 
sula has already been given. There are several interesting 
suggestions which follow a comparison of this sectional 
view with the general configuration of the country. The 
basaltic dykes represented are inferred from the sound- 
ings given in the record by Captain Lynch as places of 
unusual hardness, which are supposed to be basaltic ter- 
minations. It is evident — from the strange conformation 
of the sea-bed, affording great contrasts in depth, from 
the effect of unusual seasons of rain altering the strength 
of the waters, as well as from the fact that water brought 
away for analysis is often taken from various parts of 
the sea — that a great variation must occur in the 
density and ingredients of the water in accordance 
with the season of the year or the depth at which it is 
taken. The various analyses of the past fifty years have 
shown this inference to be correct; and the following 
table, drawn up from the most reliable sources, exhibits 
many interesting features in the composition and varia- 
tions of the waters. Dr. Marcet, who paid special atten- 
tion to the chemical composition of sea-waters, 1 obtained 
probably the most reliable among the earliest analyses, 
from a small quantity in 1807. 2 But his examination 
did not develop many ingredients which a larger amount 

1 Lieut. Maury, Phys. Geog. of the Sea, p. 156. 

2 An analysis was made as early as 1778, by Lavoisier and others, in 
Paris ; but, from some circumstances, the analysis by Dr. Marcet is con- 



460 



ANALYSIS OF THE WATER. 



would have afforded, as has been proved by subsequent 
analyses. Dr. F. A. Genth — whose analyses for the 
Prussian Government and in the United States for many 
years past have given him great and well-deserved emi- 
nence in this country and in Europe in such labors — has 
taken deep interest in the subject, and has spent much 
time this summer in the most careful and repeated 
analyses and corrections and improvements of my own 
examinations. An analysis of a large quantity of water 
brought home by myself was made by him. The water 
has been kept in glass. Three other analyses — -which I 
have, with their dates, on the authority of Dr. Kobinson 1 
— will be important to the series ; another by Professor 
James C. Booth, of Philadelphia, occurring in the official 
report, and made soon after the return (1849) of the 
exploring party under Captain Lynch ; and one, by Pro- 
fessor Gregory, of water brought by Dr. Stuart of Leg- 
horn, March 11, 1855, together with several important 
German analyses not hitherto published in any work 
on this subject, will complete an interesting table. 

Bidered preferable. Memoires de l'Acad. des Sciences, 1778, cited in Bibl. 
Res., vol. i. p. 224. 

1 Bibl. Res., vol. ii. p. 24. 



ANALYSES OF FIFTY YEARS. 



461 



§ 3 



II 

Z 3 



3 P> 
pi 

co S. 
i -1 << 



31 



1 o 



^CQ HQ CG GO. W O 



*3 i-h i— 1 »— 1 u- < g 



c ±. ~ ~ ~ 



OptHO 



CD » 1 
O O i 

B g 



o o o o 



o o c o o ^ 

M, H, ~> g 

Cog 



2. £2. 5 



5 3 



Dr. Marcet, 1807. 



Gay Lussac, 1818. 



tO O O OS t -1 
<TH O ^ ^1 tO 
CO -<T CO i— ' 
rf^ I— ' C7i CO tO 



C. G. Gmelin, 1826. 



00 O^THH 
CO o © © "to 

CO O CO CO )— i 
Ci C C3 bO 



Prof. Gmelin, results 
corrected by Mar- 
chand. 



psi 



O -T tO 



CO ^ • CO CO I— i 
-J CO " won? 
o CO co to CO 



Dr. Apjohn, 1839* 



o to OS I— ' ^ 



C7" CO h-* 

-T CO CO 
CO CO C7i 



Marchand. 



CS OS O O 
CO CO OOM 

ci o w o OS 



Boultron, Charland, 
and 0. Henry. 



PPPP P 2£P^££ Th., J., and W.Hera- 

© © © © to CO 4^ O — ' to i— i ' ' . . 

c. c o oi o NoiOHH-j patn. 

CO Ci CO OS H- 1 to C7i OS O -q- to 



o 3 
g 3 
?> b 



US. CO • ~T O 1 



Booth and Muckle, 

1849. 
(Depth of 1110 ft.)f 



Moldenhauer, June, 
1854. 



OS WM 



Dr. Gregory, 1855.J 



© CO O OS M 

^ bi b b ^ 

M C O t£ H H 
CCOHCSHO 
CO to CO © 



Boussingault, 
spring of 1855. 



CO Oi — ' 



I— i CO : Cn O ' 

OS CO • 00 O CO 

CO GO CO CO to 

os oo o *<r co 



Genth, 1858.§ 



462 REMARKABLE CREVASSE OF PALESTINE. 



CHAPTER XXIY. 

THE EVIDENT VOLCANIC ORIGIN OF THE DEAD SEA, AND THE 
INFERENCES RELATIVE TO THE FUTURE. 

Several speculations have been made as to the pro- 
bable causes of the depression of the Dead Sea, its 
peculiar saltness, the remarkable straightness of the 
Valley of the Jordan and of the corresponding valley 
running from the south end of the Dead Sea to the 
east arm of the Red Sea, called the Akabah. With 
one exception, all the appearances of the last-mentioned 
valley will suggest that it was an ancient channel be- 
tween the Dead Sea and the Red Sea, carrying off the 
waters of the Jordan and the Lake of Tiberias south 
to the latter. This singular cleft in the land reaches far- 
ther north than the Lake of Tiberias, running even up to 
the valley Et Teim, at the base of Hermon, and beyond 
till it opens into the plain of the Buka'a, which appears 
to be only an elevated extension of the same remarkable 
crevasse. It has, therefore, an unbroken course from 
a very high northern part of the Lebanon, along the 
broad valley of the Buka'a through the Lebanon bases at 
Mt. Hermon, down to the water of Merom, through the 
Lake of Tiberias, the Jordan, the Dead Sea, the Ghor, 
or valley at the south of the sea, and onward along the 
distinct valley 'Araba to the Red Sea. Nor does it stop 



THE ANCIENT EXIT. 



463 



here, but, preserving the general contour it had before 
reaching the Red Sea, it is in part filled with the 
water of that sea, and thus runs down as an estuary 
one hundred miles farther before it conies to the normal 
limits of the Red Sea. The general valley-line is 
regular and apparently unbroken for about three hun- 
dred and fifty miles, from the Upper Buka'a to the waters 
of the Red Sea at the head of the Akabah Gulf. The 
exception, referred to above, made against the suppo- 
sition that the waters of the Lebanon ever flowed through 
to the Red Sea, is as follows : — The facts that the level of 
the Dead Sea is thirteen hundred and sixteen feet 1 below 
the Mediterranean, and the level of the waters of the 
Red Sea vary but little from those of the Mediterranean, 
plainly show that water from the Dead Sea must run 
up hill to reach the supposed exit at the Red Sea. But, 
in answer to this, it appears, as we shall see, that the 
whole country north and south of the Dead Sea has under- 
gone at some time a subsidence, more or less sudden, 
reducing it to its present level. This is evident from 
the dip of the rock east and west of the sea, from the sin- 
gular contortions of the rock at the sea, and from the 
sudden variations between the eastern and western cha- 
racter of the crevasse of the Jordan. This depression or 
subsidence of the land has not only increased the volume 
of the waters of the Dead Sea by cutting off their ancient 
exit to the Red Sea, but has also increased their saltness 
and bitterness, as they have consequently received all the 
salts of the rain-washed sides of the mountains east and 

Official Report of Lieutenant Lynch, p. 43. 



464 



OBJECTIONS ANSWERED. 



west, and of the waters of the Jordan. The latter brings 
into the Dead Sea annnally not only an immense supply 
but a variety of salts from a tract of country reaching 
up to the Lebanon ranges. Moreover, the depression 
of the sea-basin itself has enabled it to retain the 
vastly-increased waters, with their salts; and, the sur- 
face having thus become increased, the evaporation be- 
came proportionally greater until it became equal to the 
supply. Then the lake-area remained stationary, and 
in this condition it continued to the present day. During 
the same time, however, the sea, constantly receiving the 
above-mentioned supplies of salts of various characters, 
and giving off in evaporation only the ivater which held 
them in solution, would in time concentrate within its 
own waters such a quantity of various saline material as 
would result in the character indicated by the analyses 
we have given. These appear to be the geological rela- 
tions in the history of the sea and the most reasonable 
method of accounting for the saltness of its waters. 
Against this supposed volcanic depression, as explana- 
tory of the concavity of the sea-bed, there are only two 
objections urged : — that a violent depression of the bed 
of the Dead Sea would require us to suppose that the moun- 
tains adjoining would be subject to the same depression; 
and that the water-courses south of the Dead Sea, lead- 
ing to the water-course which we have supposed to be 
the ancient exit of the Dead Sea, do not have a southerly 
course, — which is necessary to the supposition that the 
Jordan had formerly continued southward to the Red 
Sea. These objections may be answered, first, by 



EFFECT OF EARTHQUAKES. 



465 



referring to similar instances in other regions, and 
about which there seems to be but little doubt. 
Depressions frequently occur in volcanic regions, 
wherein for miles the land suddenly sinks, breaking 
off abruptly from adjoining sections, especially near 
craters. With the Peak of Teneriffe as a centre, there 
is a fault or sudden depression nearly eight miles in 
diameter, wherein a tract of land from eighteen to 
twenty miles in circumference, from some volcanic 
cause, has been let down into the earth abruptly, 
leaving the sides of the country in the same relative 
horizontal position to the surrounding land as exists 
between the Dead Sea and the mountains west and east, 
and nearest the deep portion represented in the view 
of the Geological Section. 1 Abrupt elevations, the result 
of volcanic action, are known to exist; and why may not 
the same forces, by their withdrawal as a sustaining 
power, permit the opposite result, — namely, a depres- 
sion? Such a depression would leave the surrounding 
country perfectly horizontal. During the earthquake in 
Calabria in 1783, circular hollows in the plain of Eo- 
sarno were formed, cross-sections of which presented 
the form of the similar section of a funnel, the inner 
portions having sunk abruptly and forming an apparent 
crater of great size. The extensive slips of land near 
Cinquefrondi during the same earthquake of Calabria, 
with the crevasse-openings and the deep circular pits 



teneriffe: an Astronomer's Experiment. C. Piazzi Smyth. London, 
Lovell Reeve, 1858. 

30 



466 OBJECTION TO A VOLCANIC ORIGIN. 



formed and afterward filled with subterranean waters, 
which have so frequently occurred after earthquakes, 
and which are described by Mr. Lyell and others, 1 suf- 
ficiently answer the objection to a volcanic depression in 
the case of the Dead Sea, which has been based upon the 
fact that the mountains in the vicinity are horizontal. 
The second objection, found in "the absence of all south- 
tending valleys south of the point — now, at least — of the 
great depression," 2 is answered by presenting the fact 
that the rock of this region is so easily affected by 
attrition that the simple force of long-continued torrents 
would be quite sufficient, during the lapse of many cen- 
turies, to change or modify the direction of water-courses, — 
especially when the two following facts are taken into 
consideration. First, that the courses of the wadys in 
this region, even where there now exists a southern 
current into which they run, — as, for instance, into the 
Jordan, — are not all south-tending. This is seen in the 
Wady Hesbon, Wady Zurka, Wady Abu Seyud, and the 
three parallel Wadys Zedy, Dan, and El Ghar, given by 
Dr. Porter, which for the greater part of their courses 
run northwest, and turn suddenly only when near the 
Jordan. So on the west of the Jordan several run east 
instead of south, as the Wadys Kelt and Naw^aimeh. 
Yet the descent of the Jordan is rapid and directly 
south. Again, it must be remembered that a line 
drawn from a short distance north of the Lake of Tibe- 



1 Principles of Geology : Changes of the Earth: vol. i. chap. 11. 

2 Dr. Anderson's Objection : Official Report, p. 206. 



SIMILAR LAKES. 



467 



rias due south to about thirty-five miles south of the 
Dead Sea would nearly fill up this depression, and, in 
restoring the country, would show a remarkable level, 
which is nearly continuous from the south of Mt. 
Hermon to the Red Sea. This level, modified by pre- 
existing local elevations, would not require that many 
south-tending valleys should now exist to prove that 
the course of a stream was anciently southward. Taking 
into consideration these facts, therefore, the impressibility 
of rock throughout this region, the centuries which have 
elapsed during which the torrents have exercised their 
force, and then the fact that the existing wadys, even 
with a downward plain, are not always southward, 
I think it will appear that south-tending wadys 
between the Dead Sea and the gulf, or Red Sea, are 
not to be demanded in proof of a pre-existing channel- 
connection between the two. In addition to this, 
there are several very interesting coincidences, which, 
at least, are suggestive. The similarity between the 
Dead Sea, the Jordan, and the Lake Tiberias, and the 
South American Lake Aullagus, the river Desaguadero, 
and the Lake Titicaca, lying between Bolivia and Peru, 
is very striking. The latter connect with each other 
in the same way and have no outlets ; and one is becoming 
salt from the same cause in part, if not altogether. It 
is worthy of consideration that the region, though there 
is no active crater in its immediate vicinity, is neverthe- 
less volcanic, and to the west has the active cone Arequipa, 
at the distance from the lake that the Lejah east of Ti- 
berias is from the Dead Sea. In this place (the Lejah) 



468 



SOMETHING IN 



COMMON WITH 



RED SEA. 



there are extinct craters, as Dr. Porter has shown. 1 Some 
violent upheaval or disturbing force is evident from the 
" steepness of the general dip and the contortions of the 
limestones in the neighborhood of the sea.'' 2 Another 
interesting fact is mentioned by Mr. Hogg, in a paper 
on the geology of Mount Sinai, on no less an authority 
than that of Baron von Humboldt, — that specimens of a 
shell, porites elongata, (of Lamarck,) have been obtained 
from the Dead Sea,—" interesting, because this species 
is not in the Mediterranean, but only in the Red Sea, 
which, according to Valenciennes, has but few organisms 
in it which are found in the Mediterranean." 3 

1 So also "with another lake referred to by Lieutenant Maury, 1 — Lake Tadj ura. 
" There are connected with it the remains of a channel by which the water 
ran into the sea ; but the surface of the lake is now jice hundred feet below 
the sea-level, and it is salting up." From some cause immediately local, as 
in Lake Titicaca, Tadj ura, and others, their ancient communication with the 
sea has been, perhaps, suddenly and violently cut off. Why may not the 
Dead Sea be added to the list ? 

2 Dr. Anderson's Report, p. 155. 

3 Jamieson's Edin. Journal, vol. xlix. p. 290, cited in an interesting work 
by Captain Wm. Allen, R.N., entitled " The Dead Sea a New Route to India,' 7 
London, 1855. The author strangely supposes that the bituminous smell 
proceeding from the black specimens when held in the flame of a candle is 
due to "the smoke from the candle," and seems to doubt whether bituminous 
fragments are picked up on the shore, except as having originally come 
from Hasbeiya, — which also he thinks doubtful, from the weight of the ma- 
terial. In this respect, however, Captain Allen is under a wrong impression. 
Bituminous pieces have been taken from the sea, which I have had the 
opportunity to compare with the Hasbeiya bitumen, and have found the 
latter much finer and purer. There can be no doubt that at times great 
quantities are thrown up, especially after earthquakes. It is very probable 
that the specimens obtained by Captain Allen were not bitumen, but the 
bituminous black rock which abounds near Neby Musa and the northern 
shore of the sea, which will not burn, and need not be subjected to the 
flame of the candle to elicit the sulphuretted odor. By simply striking two 
pieces together, I have succeeded in causing the same odor which is 



i Physical Geography of the Sea, p. 237, 



PERIOD OF THE GREAT CHANGE. 469 

These various facts and coincidences show that 
some of the changes which have given to the 
Dead Sea its present physical character were 
sudden. The character of the waters, the structure 
of the surrounding shores, the abrupt depression 
of the bed of the sea, and the basaltic and other 
igneous rocks in the vicinity, all suggest that the 
changes were directly volcanic in their origin and 
local, and not due to long-continued subsidence in 
accordance with a widely-extended force. When this 
great volcanic change took place we will not attempt 
to calculate. That it happened at the time of the 
destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah we should think 
very improbable, simply because the scriptural accounts 
of the land show bitumen-pits, saltness, and a valley 
— the three volcanic characteristics — existing before 
that destruction : hence, so far from supposing that the 
cities were destroyed at the time of the great basin- 



perceived after exposure to the flame of an alcoholic lamp. It is the Hajar 
Musa, or Moses' stone, frequently seen in the shape of bowls, small books, 
and in other ornamental forms. 1 



l The Analysis of this stone hy Mr. Hewston (Official Report, p. 155) is as follows : — 

Carbonate of lime 82.10 

Organic matter 13.55 

Iron and Alumina 1.59 

Silica i 1.95 

Magnesia (none) 

99.55 

There are fossils found in it ; and those figured in the Geological Report are the Inoceramus aratus, 
(Sow.) a dilated ventricose species, with distant acute concentric ridges and concave interstices. In 
the collection, the specimen is a fragment about three inches in length, and a cast. The Pecten 
dbrutus, (Linn., Lam. ;) irate, convex depressed ribs, twenty-two in number, radiating from the hinge, 
where they are scarcely discernible and narrower than the interstices, smooth and destitute of dis- 
tinct lines ; ears unequal. Size of specimen, six-eighths of an inch in length. And the Gryphaa 
vcsicularis. (Brown,) semi-globose, retuse at base, smooth ; inferior A - alve ventricose ; subauriculated 
on one side ; superior valve piano convex, operculiform. Size, two and two-thirds inches wide, and 
same length. 



470 



THE REGION" VOLCANIC. 



depression, I should take the Scripture to show that 
the great characteristics of the Dead Sea existed before 
the destruction. At the same time, volcanic eruptions 
seem to have taken place repeatedly in the vicinity 
of the sea and river since the commencement of the 
Christian era, both from the testimony of eye-witnesses 
and from scoria, pumice, and other volcanic erratic 
fragments which we have found while travelling 
through the country. One author in the thirteenth 
century states that he had seen the smoke arising 
from this sea in a volcanic eruption. 1 And in- 
habitants still live who declare that they saw balls of 
fire shoot out of the ground east of Tiberias during 
the earthquake of January 1, 1837. The same is 
traditionally affirmed of the earthquake of October 30, 
1759. 2 Dr. Porter states that he saw craters of extinct 
volcanoes in the Lejah, east of the Lake of Tiberias; 3 
and Dr. Kobinson saw a crater of extinct volca- 
noes near Tiberias, which we passed on our route to 
Safed. 4 Dr. Clarke says there was a mountain upon the 
western shore of the Dead Sea, which he saw, " resem- 
bling in its form the cone of Vesuvius, near Naples, 
and having also a crater upon its top, which was plainly 
discernible." 5 

The region of the Dead Sea, then, has not been the 
only part which has been subjected to these volcanic 

1 Brocardus, a.d. 1280, Loc. Ter. Sane. Descriptii, Venet., 1519, 8vo, and 
Amsterdam, Append, to Onomas. of Euseb. et Hieron., fol. , 

2 Mention is made of this catastrophe in Bibl. Res. vol. iii. p. 324. 

3 "Five Years in Damascus," ii. c. 12. 4 Bibl. Res. vol. iii. p. 367. 
5 Dr. Clarke's Travels, p. 309. 



MOUNTAINS FORMED SUDDENLY. 471 



changes, but the whole length of the Ghor to Tiberias 
and beyond. Volcanic forces have raised great tracts of 
land and depressed others, as in Calabria and in Central 
America ; and such disturbances have taken place in the 
comparatively short space of less than one hundred years, 
in one instance elevating a mountain over three thou- 
sand feet. Similar forces may have brought about a 
change in the course of a few years in the region of the 
Dead Sea, but at some time long since passed, and one 
which from present appearances could be but little ap- 
preciated. 1 But these volcanic facts, together with the 
scriptural assertions that before the destruction of Sodom 
and Gomorrah there was a state of irrigation of the plain 
near the Dead Sea greatly superior to that which existed 
after that destruction, will suggest that at the time of 
the destruction of those cities some very characteristic 
surface-change did take place not only near the 



1 " Isalco, in the State of San Salvador, Central America, has come into 
existence in historical times, and is not more than a century old. The 
fathers of the present neighborhood saw its beginning. The oldest men 
of the present generation knew it when it was a little hill. They have 
seen it grow under their eyes. Their fathers have told them the wonder- 
ful, frightful story, how, in the midst of a green plateau, covered with 
forest and meadow, where formerly stood a little hacienda, the ground 
opened with violent shaking, and dross, ashes, and vapor, accompanied by 
a fearful roaring, proceeded from the abyss, and the whole region, for 
many leagues around, was darkened with a rain of ashes, through which 
trembled the light of the lava and cinders. When, after a few days, the 
darkness passed away and the irruption became weaker, a little hill was 
seen, which, by the constantly-flowing streams of lava and the upheaved 
dross, gradually grew to be a real mountain. . . . The fact is firmly 
settled that Isalco in the first years of its activity was a mere hill, and 
that it is now a mountain three thousand two hundred feet high, and grow- 
ing every year." — From the German of Dr. Morritz Wagner, by Prof. B. H. 
Nadal. Repository, Cin., Ohio, Ap. 1857, edited by Dr. Clarke. 



472 



CHANGES OF THE 



SURFACE. 



Dead Sea, but also not far off from the head-sources 
of the Jordan, by which a vast amount of irrigation 
was diverted from the plains around the sea. This 
much seems so probable from various considerations 
which will be mentioned, that it may safely be adopted. 
The surface-change which took place at that far-distant 
time, cutting off the supplies and reducing the plain 
to comparative sterility, was distinct from that great 
force which in times still farther back gave the great cha- 
racteristic form to the Dead Sea and the Jordan valley. 
At the same time, perhaps, through inflammable material 
already accumulated in the vicinity of these towns, 
ignited by causes under the control of a supernatural 
power, the towns themselves were not only consumed, 
but the fertility of the plains more completely destroyed. 1 
At one point, about four and a half miles west by 
south of Hasbeiya, near the little village of Burghuz, 
the noble river Litany is only thirty or forty 
minutes' walk from the head-channel of the Jordan. 
Between the two there are no mountains that pre- 
vent the juncture of the two streams. A very slight 
volcanic force, in exact continuation of the axis and 
beneath the roots of the Jebel Kill an, would divert 
the channel of the Leontes into what was probably 
once its ancient course, namely, that of the valley 
of the Jordan. Certainly its present sudden change 
from a course which would have taken it directly into 
the Jordan has, contrary to all that might have been 

1 Its previous state was that of the Delta in Egypt, the "garden of the 
Lord," (Gen. xiii. 10;) and when it was destroyed its smoke was pitchy as 
that of a furnace: Gen. xix. 28, indicating the nature of what was burned. 



INTERESTING PROBABILITIES. 



473 



anticipated, deflected it into a course due west, and 
into the Mediterranean almost at a right angle to its 
previous direction. What has done this ? The parallel 
walls of the noble valley of the Buka'a seem erected to 
keep it on a course which would have brought it into 
the Jordan, to pour a flood of its pleasant waters, the 
springs and rivulets of a rich country covering over 
one thousand square miles, into the waters of the Dead 
Sea. Even without geological agencies, a few work- 
men of proper information and ordinary industry 
could in a short time open a communication between 
the two channels. At present, the Dead Sea varies in 
length several miles, according to the amount of water 
brought into its basin by the Jordan. 1 But, on the 
introduction of the streams of the Buka'a, there would 
be seasons when the length of the sea would be so in- 
creased, that if its waters did not connect with the 
level summit south of the Dead Sea, a very small ele- 
vating force applied along the axis of depression would 
accomplish it and again open the river-course through 
the desert ! Even without the latter result, the conse- 
quences would be greater than the geological won- 
der would be that effected it. One-half the volcanic 
or geological force which has at several times been 
exhibited in Calabria, in Central America, and in other 
places, would change the channels of the great valley 
of Lebanon, and cause the waters from thence to run to 
the elevated vicinity and basin of the Dead Sea. Thus it 



1 Bibl. Res. vol. ii. p. 488. 

30* 



474 



EXPERIMENT WITH THE WATER. 



would empty its waters through the Akabah, and would 
soon convert the salt waters of the Dead Sea into waters 
of freshness and of healing. This supposition at first 
view may be liable to the charge of speculation; but 
an acquaintance with the nature and peculiarity of the 
changes which have taken place in several parts of the 
world, only in the last two hundred years, and which are 
in several places still in course of progression, will show 
that it is based not upon theory, but upon similar 
changes which have been and are now occurring on the 
earth's surface in volcanic countries. 1 

The properties of the sea-water may be seen analytic- 
ally in the table given. But the effects of those waters 
are singular. Captain Lynch, U. S. N., informs me that 
every effort to develop and to detect infusoria in the 
waters of the Dead Sea was in vain. No animal life 
could be seen therein, not even the smallest animal- 
cule ; and the shells obtained on the shore were, without 
exception, land and fresh-water shells. 

A quantity of the Dead Sea water was put into a 
glass vessel, and, after considerable agitation by pour- 
ing from one vessel into another, a salt-water fish was 

1 The remarkable passage in Ezekiel xlvii. 3-13 I am not prepared to 
explain either as prophetic of physical or spiritual results. I will leave 
that to the reader. But, without having any reference to it when writing 
the above, making the remarks only as a scientific supposition, I am sure 
that nothing could more correctly describe the results of the increased flow 
into the Jordan, the beneficial effects upon vegetation, and the probable 
course of the superabundant waters, namely, to the Red Sea. The eighth 
verse in the Hebrew permits the translation thus: — " The waters extend to 
the east border:" i.e. they are the east limit of the land; and in reading 
the tenth verse it must be remembered that Engedi (Ain Jidy) is on the 
west, and Eglaim supposed to be on the northeast shore. 



EFFECT UPON FISH. 



475 



introduced. The fish was small, and caught by means 
of a hand-net, so as to be perfectly uninjured. At first 
it seemed full of life. In less than two minutes by 
the watch it showed signs of weakness, falling on its 
side, opening the mouth more widely at every inha- 
lation, but attempting successfully to recover itself 
when fallen over, until, the rapidity of respirations 
gradually decreasing, in five minutes it turned over, and 
all movements of the gills or mouth ceased, the latter 
being widely extended, and no further attempts were 
made to recover its natural position. It was then 
returned to the reservoir of sea-water, where it had 
been in perfect health for several weeks before the 
experiment. It now began to show signs of life, with 
a slow respiratory movement, which increased for ten 
minutes, and remained in that state for about fifteen, 
during which it so far recovered as to use the tail in a 
progressive motion; but, on careful examination, it 
was found that the side and breast fins were entirely 
paralyzed, and they remained so from the moment it 
was removed from the Dead Sea water till its death. 
After death, which occurred in half an hour, the 
gills were examined under a microscope, and ex- 
hibited that condition of the cellular tissue which 
is seen in cases of " purpura," wherein the coatings 
of the molecules of the blood seem to have been dis- 
solved to such thinness as no longer to be able to 
retain the blood, which, breaking out, exhibits itself 
in congested masses among the capillary veins and 
arteries. From the present composition and effect 



476 



SWIFTNESS OF THE JORDAN. 



of the water, therefore, we are led to suppose that 
fish of a constitution similar to that possessed by 
those living in ordinary sea-water could never be 
sustained in the water of the Dead Sea. There 
is no animal life, that we could discover, either in or 
near the water; and the shells which have been seen 
were probably washed down from the upper lands or 
floated down the Jordan by becoming attached to drift- 
wood. It is said that one gentleman, while bathing in 
the sea, was bitten by a kind of crab, which he killed. 
But my authority had it second-handed under such 
circumstances that I think we are justified in supposing 
there was some misunderstanding. 1 

After examinations around the sea, we were soon 
upon the course to the Jordan, riding parallel to the 
winding current, which is deeply sunken in what seems 
like the channel of a former river. Its color now par- 
takes of the soil of the countries through which it 
has passed, but, after being kept in a vessel for a 
day or two, the water becomes pellucid as that of 
the clearest spring. The temperature was 58°. The 
current was too strong to permit of our swimming 
across, though washing in its waters completely freed 
me from the clammy sensation which was the conse- 
quence of my previous bath. The Arabs now brought 
me their tribute of various objects, among which was a 
pretty variety of the narcissus, very much resembling 
the daffodil. The short and crooked stems of the "rose 



1 It is recorded in Captain Allen's work, vol. i., referred to before. 



RACING. 



477 



of Jericho," 1 as it is called, are found everywhere. One 
which we afterward tried, and which had been out of 
the ground for many months, opened in five minutes 
sufficiently to allow the escape of any seeds which 
might have # been enclosed. This action is increased by 
the use of warm and soft water, and is a remarkable 
contrivance, whereby the plant is kept from depositing 
the seed except on spots favorable to its growth. 
Gathering specimens of the tamarisk, the cane, and 
other plants, and finding little shells (helices) similar to 
those found on the shore of the Dead Sea, we set off for 
Eriha. The rain was now threatening to come rapidly 
upon us again, and we hastened over the plain. Our 
horses had been standing for along time, and thus enjoyed 
the exercise, in which the Arabs joined heartily. Some of 
my company had previously left; and, having nothing 
to detain us, we rushed headlong up hillocks and 
through bushes. One of the company endeavored to 
display either himself or his little horse for the sport of 
the rest by running at a mad rate ahead, and waiting. 
Then, suddenly racing off again, he outran us all. But, 
attempting the same sport from a smooth piece of 
ground, which, unfortunately for his antics, had just 

1 Anastatica hierochuntica, a small, gray-leaved plant, with short, stiff, 
crooked branches, which, while the plant is growing, spreads in a radiating 
direction on the surface of the ground; the flowers resemble those of the 
radish or rocket; when the seeds are perfect, the plant dies, and the 
branches dry and curve upward and inward, forming a kind of ball. The 
plant then, becoming detached from the ground, blows over the plain or 
desert, still containing the seeds, until near a moist or wet place, when 
the moisture opens the branches and lets the seeds out at the spot best, fitted 
to nourish a plant. " But the plant never grows again." — Botan. Rep. E., 
p. 59, Official Reports of the Dead Sea. 



478 



ARAB SPORT. 



been made slippery by a fall of rain, the little black 
charger started with a jump, a slide, and almost a 
somerset, and came down on his side as quick as 
"wink," with his rider having his gun and sword under 
him. There he lay, the oddest little fellownm agin able, 
seemingly not much larger than a black goat, and as 
quiet as if in a tit. The Arab attempted to extri- 
cate himself; but the horse was too heavy for him, and 
he had to wait for others to help him. Upon the tail 
of his little horse he had displayed his skill at a 
" shave," having left it as black and smooth as a poker. 
Neither were injured; and though I felt some fear for 
my own horse, yet we were all soon riding over the 
plain as furiously as ever. The Arabs are generally 
good riders, and pass over the ground, with their guns 
dangling at their necks, at a rate quite surprising. 
We soon arrived at the village; and with the evening 
came some clear sky, and the tinted sunset clouds, 
which appear so much more beautiful and welcome 
here than they would in any other region. Far 
to the west are the mountains of Judah; and on the 
left-hand side of the wide-opening chasms of the Wady 
Kelt are the ruins of the Kakon castle, of which we 
have spoken. What varying artists are these evening- 
rays ! How often some alter the character of a view 
by coloring and shading those parts prominently 
which other rays would scarcely have touched ! Near 
the base of the castle is one of the tumuli previously 
spoken of, which is perhaps small, compared with others. 
On the north side of the valley are caverns up in the 



COFFEE. 



479 




ANCIENT CASTLE NEAR JERICHO. 



rocks, scarcely visible. Many are seen still farther north 
at Jebl Kuruntal, (Quarantana Mountain,) but to the 
right of the view above. After dinner, we enjoy our 
coffee, which is so universally agreeable to the Arabs 
that, most satisfactorily to them, it takes the place of 
the "liquors" of other countries. The company then 
separate. 1 Our Arabs are out upon the plain around their 
camp-fire. Every thing is becoming silent; and it is 
pleasant, while alone, to look out upon the night-scene. 
Sleeping forms lie stretched out again upon the 

*A writer in Hunt's Merchants' Magazine says that in the sixteenth 
century an Ottoman ambassador, Soliman Aga, presented some of the seeds 
to a king of France, as those from which a pleasant beverage was produced 
in Arabia. In 1654, an Armenian named Pasquel opened the first shop 
for the sale of coffee (an infusion of it) in Paris. Nearly all the coffee 
drank is the produce of the new continent, where, about nine centuries 
ago, it was not cultivated at all. The people of the East, instead of growing 
it themselves, borrowed it from the Armenians. 



480 MIDNIGHT DREAMS. 

ground; and the dying embers one by one settle 
down into ashes and darkness. Unusual associations have 
this day rapidly brought up to my mind slumbering 
memories of past histories, vividly, fully, trooping into 
my meditations; and now suddenly they leave me to a 
loneliness that is not all alone, and to those impressions 
so difficult to describe. I sit here alone beneath a star- 
lit sky. For moments every thing around seems buried 
in the sleep of ages. Every gleaming peak and shaded 
ruin, and yonder strange and dismal sea, which upon 
the gentle wind seems to send to the ear mournful 
sighings from its distant waters, — each seems to add 
some solemnity to every thought of the past. The his- 
tories of this land, how full of moral grandeur, of sacred 
mysteries, of victories and defeats, of deeds of hero- 
ism and of blood. There were other times than those 
of the Crusades during which these hills echoed the 
shouts of triumph, or witnessed terrific defeats. If some 
late speculations on light are probable, then perhaps its 
mysterious rays are now bearing onward to some distant 
star the still living pictures of scenes which once tran- 
spired here ! Or their histories may have gone up in 
sounds which, though they have long since escaped all 
human ears, yet live in ceaseless undulations. During 
these solitary midnight reveries, the unnatural shriek 
of the jackal wakes up the sleeping echo from the 
grim walls of the old castle near me, and it dies along 
the valley with a sound so prolonged that the after- 
silence is deeper than before. What thousands from 
all nations and ages lie buried on these mountains and 



BATTLE-FIELD OF NATIONS. 



481 



plains of Judea and of Jericho ! The mouldered relics 
of Saracens and Christians lie peacefully together, and 
Israelites and pagans, warriors and kings, statesmen 
and poets, women brave-hearted as men and as true, 
here have found one vast and common burial-ground. 
Here are the remains of patriarchs and apostles and of 
martyrs, — a nobler "army" the world never knew. The 
cankered sword and spear, the dust of arms and standards 
of almost every proud nation of earth, are lying upon 
these hills, — hills which form altars whereon all nations 
have offered some tribute, in their wealth or blood, to the 
truth of Him who had declared that he would "gather 
the nations and assemble the kingdoms, to pour upon 
them his indignation," and that the days should come 
when " the whole land should be devoured by the fire 
of his jealousy." 



31 



482 



KOUTE TO JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

WALKS ABOUT JERUSALEM. 

We had appointed this morning for our return to 
Jerusalem, and my little alarm-clock has again set 
Jericho in motion. The temperature is forty-nine 
degrees, and the sky threatens rain. At fifteen minutes 
past seven o'clock we are on the way; and, having 
taken all the observations we thought necessary, we 
press on rapidly, and, riding alone, I found I had been 
four hours and fifteen minutes from Eriha to the Mount 
of Olives, notwithstanding I have stopped to sketch 
the village of Bethany. The rain has been falling 
plenteously, and ever and anon the cold wind sweeps 
down the valleys. Sometimes a lonely Bedouin looks 
down upon me as he tends his herd upon some height; 
but no one attempts to interrupt me till I arrive at the 
position from which the following sketch of Bethany 
was taken, with its terraces, a few trees on the left, 
the mountains across the valley of the Kedron in the 
same direction, the minaret on the right of the road, 
and the mosque and reputed house of Lazarus on the 
top of the village-eminence. 

On entering, every thing is ruinous, desolate, and in 



BETHANY. 



483 




dirt; and nothing but the general country is interesting. 
A little wady (Abu Dis) makes its head near the vil- 
lage, as represented, though perhaps a little lower than 
in the cut, and descends toward the left. On the top of 
the hill, on the left of the road through the village, is an 
old mosque, very uninviting on approach, but beautiful in 
the distance. There are walls and trees, and the appear- 
ance of gardens on the left which depend for their exist- 
ence upon the terraces, which in some places are already 
broken. This is the city of Mary and Martha, — the 
Bethany of the present day. It appears to me impos- 
sible that it should have been thus in the time of the 
Saviour. The Christian principle, it would seem, would 
have made one clean and comfortable spot in the village, 
especially if (as some suppose) it was the city, in point 
of property, of Lazarus and Mary. Their residences, at 



484 



UX COMFORT ABLE ROOMS. 



least, would have formed an exception to the present 
appearance. Now every thing overruns with mud. is 
suffocated with impure air and filth, and oppresses one 
with the sense of how far our humanity can sink. 

On passing over the Mount of Olives, at thirty minutes 
past eleven, there was a genuine hail-storm, the ther- 
mometer standing at forty-six degrees; and in fifteen 
minutes I dismount at the door of our convent-home. 
I had the expectation during my cold journey that when 
at the convent I should soon change my wet clothing, 
and by the aid of fire "dry off" and be comfortable, es- 
pecially in our little room. This somewhat increased 
my desire to hasten homeward. But what a disappoint- 
ment! Every thing is cold, damp, and clammy 
within: the rain drops through the ceiling and stains 
my clothes and bed. Without, the thermometer has 
sunk to fortv-one decrees. — the coldest weather we 
have yet experienced in the land, — and again the hail 
is falling. The difference of temperature between this 
place and the Jordan is quite perceptible without the 
aid of the thermometer. 

Taking advantage of a slight cessation in the showers, I 
walked out to a projection of the Mount of Zion, which 
is across the little valley at the southwest corner of the 
temple-area. The celebrated remains of the bridge which 
once connected Mount Zion with the present Haram 
grounds spring from the southwest corner of the wall of 
the grounds of the Mosque of Omar. Here, and on the 
southeast corner of the city, are the largest stones, which 
still retain their position in the wall apparently as they 



ANCIENT SUBSTRUCTIONS. 



485 



were in the time of the Saviour. But there is an 
impression resulting from a comparison of the level 
of the grounds of the mosque with the ascent of this 
bridge, which is worthy of attention. It is, that the 
present level of the Haram grounds could not have been 
much lower than at present, and those structures of the 
temple found at present to exist under ground were un- 
doubtedly the foundation-cells and arches of the previous 
structures, and not, as some suppose, once above the 
ground. It is not reasonable to think that any new 
stones would have been introduced to make the new walls 
and buildings; and hence the stones in this place would 
have been used and not permitted to accumulate to 
any great depth. In some places this might have 
been otherwise, especially where there were previous 
ruins or depressions, as has been proved near the 
foundation of the English church near the Tower of 
Hippicus. In some parts of the city the ruins reach 
down many feet, whereas in others evidently there 
are none, and there the buildings are on foundations 
free from any rubbish. If the ground could be laid 
clear of all ruins whatever, the general configuration 
would doubtless be greatly altered, and some questions 
have additional light thrown upon them which never 
can be obtained till such uncoverings or excavations 
are made. The width of the arch of the bridge was 
about forty-eight feet, one stone in which seems to 
have been fractured, and previously to have measured 
nearly thirty feet in length. One is about six feet in 
thickness. This bridge is supposed to have been referred 



486 



COINS FOUND AFTER RAINS. 



to among other wonders of Solomon's time, when it is said 
that the Queen of Sheba saw " the ascent by which he 
went up unto the house of the Lord." 1 Near the bridge is 
the Mosque el Aksa with a dome, presenting externally 
more of the appearance of a red-stained factory than that 
of a mosque. 

In the hollow, over which the ancient bridge passed 
to Mount Zion, there are plants of the prickly-pear, often 
described, but which at this time of the year (January) 
has no thorn, though the leaves are as large as any pre- 
viously seen . This little valley is the Valley of the Cheese- 
mongers, — the Tyropceon of Josephus. Here coins are 
frequently picked up after showers by the children who 
search for them. Quite a number of these coins were 
exhibited to me by Dr. Barclay, of Jerusalem, one of 
which was only a little over one-quarter of an inch in 
diameter and weighed ten grains, and yet not much cor- 
roded, though the figures were almost illegible, from 
imperfect stamping. 2 A coin of " Herod the Ethnarch" 
— probably from this valley, or not far off — has been 
shown me, of which the following is a fac-simile. 3 




1 1 Kings x. 5 ; 2 Chron. ix. 4. 

2 This coin is now in the United States Mint at Philadelphia. Mr. Dubois, 
of the United States Mint, considers it Byzantine, and of a ,time about the 
commencement of the Christian era. 

3 For this representation I am indebted to Samuel B. SchiefFelin, Esq., 
of New York, who, having himself obtained the original, kindly permitted 
me to rcpr°sent it. It is at present in his possession. 



SURVEYING THE WALLS. 



487 



Archelaus, who " reigned in the room of his 
father Herod," 1 was called ethnarch, yet such was 
the character of Herod the Great that it is probable 
in his pride he called himself ethnarch, or governor 
of nations, evidently signifying that he was governor-in- 
chief. The bunch of grapes indicated the fertility of 
the country. 

We have been spending this day principally in sur- 
veys. Several times we anticipated interruption, but 
were fortunate in not meeting with it, — though on the 
southeastern area we were forced to tread on some 
cultivated patches. The air, which was quite cool 
this morning, now becomes uncomfortably warm, which 
is due to our position in relation to the city-wall rather 
than to increased temperature generally; and we re- 
move to the northern wall, out of the sun. Here we 
saw the closed gate of Herod. There are Arabic super- 
scriptions over the gate; but otherwise the evidences 
of a gate are not very apparent. Farther west of this 
gate we found the most rocky part of the wall, — a part 
so precipitous and lofty that it was with great trouble 
we obtained the right bearings. Crossing the only 
entrance on the north wall, at the Damascus gate, at 
twelve o'clock, we took advantage of the hour for 
prayer, when the sentinels are absent, and completed 
its measurement. About sixty yards east of this gate 
is a pool, and between that and the wall is a hole near 
the ground, through which an entrance is gained to 
the quarry running southeasterly under ground, and 

1 Matt. ii. 22. Winer's Kealwoerterbuch, " Archelaus." Jos. Ant. xvii. 11,4. 



488 



VISIT FROM A 



STR A NGER. 



apparently the place from which the large stones of 
the temple were taken. On arriving at the Jaffa gate, 
which is the next gate and the only western gate, we 
found several sentinels taking coffee; and, not wishing 
to attract too much attention, we passed them on our 
way to the eastern wall. Passing the southern gate, — 
the gate of Zion, — we completed the survey to the eastern 
or St. Stephen's gate. Thus there are only four gates 
or openings. Feeling that our survey was complete, 
and that interruption on the part of the sentinels now 
would do our work but little injury, -we boldly pushed on, 
measuring the gate before them; but they looked upon 
the whole procedure with perfect unconcern. We then 
passed into the city and wound our way through the 
streets till we arrived at the convent. While leaning 
over a balustrade, I was suddenly accosted in English 
by a lady inquiring whether I could direct her to the 
room of two American gentlemen then in the convent. 
I replied that there w T ere only two with whom I was 
acquainted, and supposed she referred to them. The 
lady was alone, and altogether her appearance was 
poverty-stricken and sad. She requested me to lead 
the way to the Americans. I invited her to our 
room, where the dragoman was preparing dinner. 
We then discovered w T ho our visitor was, — an author- 
ess, — a lady at one time considered highly gifted, — 
one who had in former days addressed public assem- 
blies in England and had spoken before Congress three 
times. She had heard from our friend Dr. Barclay that 
we were here, and had called "to pay respects;" and 



POOL OF SILOAM. 489 

further remarked that her object in coming to Jeru- 
salem was to preach Christ, or rather to profess him 
before the Jews. To do this, she thought it only 
necessary to say to any one she met that Jesus Christ 
was the Son of God, and then to leave him. There 
was something strangely sad in the whole scene ; and 
after dinner we accompanied her to the little dingy 
room, near the pool of Hezekiah, where, with but one 
servant, she had passed several years, as she thought, 
forsaken by every one, and yet hoping, after her own 
peculiar ideas, to do some good and then in due time be 
gathered to her fathers. 

Visiting the pool of Siloam, we were surprised to see 
unmistakable evidence that the sides of the pool had 
been reconstructed in later times. On the eastern side 
are six shafts, only one having a capital ; and between 
these shafts, which are of limestone, the space is filled 
up with stones. From the surface of the surrounding soil 
to that of the water it is thirteen feet six inches; and 
the depth of the water is one foot eight inches, though, 
judging from the water-mark, it has been two feet two 
inches deeper. The temperature is 63°, — which shows 
that it is warmer than the air. On the north of the pool 
is an opening through which the water is "sent" (hence 
the name Siloam) from the upper fountain, or that of 
the Virgin. The water in this aqueduct is warmer than 
that in Siloam, which is slightly brackish, but clear 
and running freely. Three hundred yards to the north- 
east is the Fountain of the Virgin, so called from the 
tradition that in these waters the Virgin washed the 

31* 



490 



MINARETS. 



clothes of the infant Jesus. The water was whitened by 
the soap used by girls upon the clothes they often 
wash here in the morning, and we could not compare its 
taste with that of the water of Siloam. Its temperature 
was exactly the same. The survey was now carried 
east of Jerusalem, and, ascending the Mount of Olives, we 
gained various views of the mosque, the city, and the 
grounds of the mosque-enclosure. Entering the Church 
of the Ascension, on the top of Mount Olivet, we were 
shown a hole in a rock several inches wide and nearly as 
many deep, where we were gravely told that the Saviour 
left the mark of his walking-stick when he made his ascension! 

The Dead Sea and the two small bays on the northern 
border can be distinctly seen, the plain of the Jordan, 
the plain and the mountains of Abarim, beyond, and the 
mountains of Judea on this side of the sea ; but the waters 
of the Jordan are not visible. 1 From the minaret on 
the Mount of Olives an admirable view may be had 
of the city. The grounds of the mosque are plainly 
seen, and the singular needle-like spires of the city, — 
the minarets, — eight of which we counted in Jerusalem, 
including one outside the gate of Mt. Zion. 2 

1 The north bay of the sea bore 81° 25' from the east side of the wely on 
Mount Olives and Zion gate S. 74° 30 7 W. I mention these because 
therefrom, by after-bearings, I had my attention first drawn to the fact that 
there is a local attraction which disturbs the needle near the top of the Mt. of 
Olives, and caused me much trouble to detect the causes of the differences of 
reversed bearings. I am inclined to think that there are several hills 
where a similar local attraction is as much as three or four degrees, — 
one, for instance, nearly seven miles due east from Tyre. < 

2 Menar or minareh is Arabic, and signifies a beacon. Valid, son of 
Abdulmalek, the sixth kalif of the Ommiades, in a.d. 690, first erected a mina- 
ret at the grand mosque of Damascus. Another, built at Alexandria by 



SCOPUS. 



491 



Passing down the eastern side of Mount Olives, we 
now compassed the northern part of the city toward the 
northwest. Just beyond is the hill Scopus, from which 
Titus obtained his first view of Jerusalem previous to 
that terrible siege which terminated in the final over- 
throw of the Jewish nation. The hill is about one mile 
northwest of the Damascus gate, — is the finest for a view 
of the city, and is in proximity to the plain on which 
Titus encamped. For these reasons, it is altogether the 
most probable site, although lately some have placed it 
northeast and toward Anata. There is a solemn 
mystery suggested by the circumstances of this siege. 
It is that some Divine appointments, originating in an 
intent of love to the race, frequently become occasions 
for the execution of a purpose quite in contrast to that 
original intent. J ust as a drop of water is the pure and 
brilliant representative of a source of gladness to all 
nations, and yet it contains not only a portion of elec- 
tricity, but the actual amount sufficient for the destruc- 
tion of life. So to the Jews, after the crucifixion, 
the very feast of the Passover, which amid all their 
previous history had been the occasion of grateful 
remembrance that God passed over them in his de- 
struction of Egypt's first-born, was in its sad termi- 



the same prince, was destroyed by lightning. — D'Herbelot, vol. iii. p. 157. 
All the royal mosques are distinguished by two or four minarets : others 
have but one. Sultan Ahmet I., in 1610, on one side of the ancient hippo- 
drome in Constantinople, had six, which gave offence to the Ulemah, because 
at Mecca there are four only. — Constantinople, Ancient and Modern, p. 57. 
James Dallaway, M.B., E.S.A., Chaplain and Physician of the British 
Embassy to the Porte. London, 1797. 



492 



SAD FATE OF THE JEWS. 



nation made a snare to them 1 when God decided to 
destroy them. For, because of the general gathering 
from all places of worship throughout Palestine to Jeru- 
salem to celebrate the passover, a much greater crowd 
had been gathered into the city than ever lived there; 
and therefore it is not to be wondered at when we are 
informed 2 that one million one hundred thousand were 
destroyed by starvation, disease, and the sword at its 
final overthrow, so that it was a just remark that the 
passover, first instituted 3 by God in mercy to save the 
Israelites from death, was now used by him in justice 
to hasten their destruction and to gather the nations 
into a bundle to be cast into the fire of his anger. 4 And 
while the Jews were thus shut up to such agony that, 
as Josephus relates, even mothers forgot the tender ties 
of maternal love and committed deeds too appalling 
to dwell on, yet, through the warnings of Christ, the 
Christian Passover, 5 the early disciples fled to Pell a, 6 a 
town just beyond Jordan, about fifty miles north of 
Jerusalem, and thus escaped the storm of war and 
desolation which fell upon the Jews. Of those who 
escaped, ninety-seven thousand, were taken captives ; and 
they who would receive no price as the ransom of the 
Saviour from death were soon after glad if their con- 
querors would receive a price and grant them the sad privi- 
lege of shedding tears over a few stones, the only remain- 



1 Psalm. Ixvi. 22. 

2 Josephus, Wars of the Jevrs, bk. vi. c. 9 ; 3. 3 Exodus xii. 13. 

4 The Historie of the Holy Warre, bk. i. ch. 1. Thos. Fuller, 1651. 

5 1 Cor. v. 7. 6 Eusebius, Ecclesiastical History, lib. iii. cap. v. 



CHARNEL-HOUSES. 



493 



ing relics of their former city. I never could certainly 
understand the grounds of the remark which is made 
by Fuller, on the authority of Adricomius, that "they 
who had bought our Saviour for thirty pence were 
themselves sold thirty for a penny." 1 Perhaps this 
was literally so ; for, from several authorities, 2 such was 
the fury of the soldiers and their thirst for destruction 
and plunder, that Titus, though desirous of saving the 
temple and the people, — not so much from curiosity as 
from mercy, — was unable to effect his purpose. 

On the west of the city, about five hundred yards 
from the wall, is a Mohammedan cemetery ; and a few 
yards off is a room under ground, sixty feet in length 
and twenty-five to thirty feet wide, and about the same 
in height. The entrance to it is small. Near it is a room 
built above ground, used as a charnel-house, and contain- 
ing a frightful collection of human bones and skeletons, 
nearly perfect, and mingled with some bones of beasts. 
Some of the skulls were perfect. We could have counted 
hundreds in these cells, where they seem to have been 
thrown in without any ceremony. In several instances 
the hair and scalp were still clinging to the bone. 3 
Passing through the Mohammedan cemetery adjoining, 
in one little mosque-like building I found a tombstone 
drilled with little holes for flowers. Some one, mind- 

1 Adricom., in Actis Apost., fol., 282, — perhaps, Fuller thinks, from Hege- 
sippus. — Fuller, Holy War, bk. 1, chap. 1. 

2 Josephus, Eusebius, and Hegesippus. 

3 The upper pool of Gihon, near this place, measured twenty feet three 
inches deep to the mud in the bottom. Its bearings were from the side 
farthest from the city N. 75° W. two hundred and eighteen feet. Southern 
side, S. 11° 30 / W. three hundred and thirteen feet. 



494 



FLOWERS FOR THE TOMB. 



ful of the dead, had just placed some fresh crocus-blos- 
soms there. How pleasant the thought that even the 
cold marble is thus to be made beautiful after death by 
the hands of those who will love to shed blossoms 
rather than tears ! I must confess, I have a sym- 
pathy with this Mohammedan custom of visiting the 
tombs of our dearest friends with garlands and flowers 
in our hands, especially when there can be found a bright 
hope in our hearts of a glorious resurrection and re- 
union above. Some by their acts would make it appear 
that the nearer we approach to the Christian faith the 
more gloom and tears and weeds we ought to associate 
with the grave. We make a distinction between the mo- 
ments around the dying bed, where affection conquers for 
the present, and those spent at the tomb, which, through 
Christ's resurrection, is to the Christian the certain pledge 
of immortality. Mary had a faint heart, which allowed 
her to complain even of J esus. It is with a similar spirit 
that many go to the tomb to weep there. But J esus, though 
he wept at the announcement of the death of Lazarus, gave 
thanks $t the tomb that even it should be made subservi- 
ent to his glory. 1 I think I did no wrong in taking one or 
two flowers, while I replaced the rest as they were found, 
so that the unknown one who placed them there will 
never know that they were disturbed, nor the thoughts 
to which these little tokens of affection on the tomb of a 
friend gave rise in the breast of a stranger. On entering 
the city, we met several little girls with a nurse, all 



1 John xi. 



THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 



49-3 



dressed in Frank costume, and, on inquiring, found they 
were of English families and from Smyrna. No one 
can tell but those who have travelled so much among 
foreigners as we, and almost alone for the last eight 
months, how pleasant is the simple sight of a few pret- 
tily-dressed children like these, who speak our native 
tongue. I do not wonder at the capers of those droll 
Californians who, after many months' exile from home, 
danced around a bonnet they had found in the road, 
u with three hearty cheers for their far-distant mothers, 
their sisters and sweethearts." 

During a visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
which is about one hundred yards southeast of the 
convent, we noticed, under the dome and in one of two 
little rooms, a pillar about three feet high. At the 
top of this is set a piece of marble, which has been worn 
smooth by the kisses it has received from believers. 
It is said that the little fragment of marble on the top 
was a piece of the stone which the angel rolled away 
from the tomb of the Saviour on the morning of the 
resurrection. It is a white-and-gray crystalline marble, 
and foreign from the stone of the country. The 
adjoining room contains the sarcophagus in which 
it is said the body of our Saviour was laid. It also is 
of foreign marble, and polished by the constant touches 
of lips and foreheads, and really looks as though wear- 
ing away. The room is twice the width of the sarco- 
phagus, and of the same length, — probably eight feet. 
From the ceiling are hung forty-four lamps like those 
in the Grotto of the Nativity. Our guide said there 



496 



HAZARD FROM THE FIRE OF COALS. 



should be forty-five, — an equal number for each of the 
churches using the building, the Latin, Greek, and Ar- 
menian. While standing here, a priest came with a little 
tin vessel, like an engineer's oil-can, and offered, as I 
supposed, to anoint me according to some method of no 
particular importance to me. Not believing in the 
efficacy of the process, I should have declined, had I not 
been desirous for once of becoming experimentally ac- 
quainted with the contents of the can. I permitted him 
to proceed ; when, lo ! out came simply rose-water, and 
that most fragrant. 

On return to our cell at the convent, we felt cold and 
wet. Parts of the plaster of the arching roof were 
visibly damp, so that I requested Nicolo to send up 
his sheet-iron kitchen with the coals in it. I have 
pictured it before as a feature in Syrian and in pilgrim 
life. 1 This little iron brazier, three and a half feet in 
length, was brought up, and in about half an hour 
after its entrance I began to feel the effects of the 
charcoal ; and so rapidly was I brought to experience the 
danger from the gas that I was glad to get to the door. 
It is a hazardous comfort in a room ; and I have learned 
of another death, — making two from this cause in this 
building. 

This morning we have been surprised by the noise 
of a wedding going on next door. From our house-top we 
can look down upon the party. One female is engaged 
beating upon a kind of double drum placed before her, 



See representation on p. 41. 



THE YOUNG 



sheik's 



FIRST LOT E. 



497 



while others accompan}' her by clapping their hands in 
time with the beating. Some very droll singing forms 
a part of the entertainment, ending in a general trilling 
of the voices as a chorus. The old lady is in the yard, 
preparing the vegetables for dinner ; and she, too, occa- 
sionally joins in the shrieking chorus. The " tum- 
tum" is kept up all day, until we heartily wish that the 
girl may get married immediately. But our wishes are 
in vain ; for we understand that the girl is to marry a 
sheik, and that the music begins before and continues 
after the wedding. The bridegroom is to come to-night 
with his party from the Jordan, and the neighborhood 
has to be forewarned of the honor. Men seldom marry 
the object of their warmest attachment, if it has been 
one of former years ; and women still more rarely. But 
this young sheik has not seen his bride since they 
were children ; and to-morrow, we understand from 
the neighbors, he takes her to his tribe, having 
bought her, according to the custom, for about one hun- 
dred and twenty dollars. 

During our stay in Jerusalem, we were frequently 
entertained in the pleasant family of Dr. J. T. Barclay, 
whose work on Jerusalem has brought before the 
public so many points of interest not hitherto noticed. 
Dr. Barclay's residence in Jerusalem promises great aid 
to the cause of geographical and scientific knowledge 
of the country. We were informed that as many as 
sixty patients have visited his house at one time, all 
Mohammedans, to whom he has given advice and medi- 
cine freely. His natural urbanity and Christian kindness, 

32 



498 



NO WALKING WITHOUT 



A LANTERN. 



exercised toward the natives, together with a working 
and available scientific knowledge, must result in further 
important discoveries. We are indebted to him for 
much local information, especially in our surveys be- 
yond the city, which, by his permission, we have 
embodied with our own in the map of Palestine accom- 
panying this work. In most of the survey of seven 
miles around Jerusalem, I have depended upon his 
surveys, departing slightly from them in a few 
instances several miles south of the city and on 
the east. 

We always return at night to our lodgings with a 
lantern, however brightly the moon may be shining. 
This is the law; and some Franks were taken up not 
long since and lodged in the seraglio for disobedience. 
Every street seems quiet soon after dusk. In Western 
cities the night is scarcely distinguishable from the 
day, because of the noise and bustle in the streets. But, 
soon after the last call of the muezzin to evening prayer 
is heard, every Mussulman soberly and quietly retires 
from public notice, and the streets, crowded with hun- 
dreds during the long day, become silent and untrod- 
den, the gates to the city are shut and entrance strictly 
forbidden. 1 At supper this evening at the British 
consul's, we tasted the Bethlehem honey, which is 
peculiarly and pleasantly aromatic, but in consistency 
and color is similar to that of ordinary honey. In 
Palestine, honey was eaten from the earliest times ; and 

1 Dillaway, in his " Constantinople," referred to before, says that one hour 
after sunset the gates are closed in that city. — P. 72, 



DEATH FROM EATING HONEY. 



499 



the soldiers of Edward I., in marching through Pales- 
tine, ate so freely of honey that vast numbers of them 
died in consequence. 1 



Sanatus Gesta Dei per Francos., vol. ii. p. 24. 



500 



APPARENT DESOLATION. 



CHAPTEK XXVI. 

FERTILITY OF THE SOIL OF PALESTINE IN PAST DAYS — 
PROOFS THAT THE SOIL IS STILL CAPABLE OF THE 
SAME PRODUCTIVENESS. 

No observant traveller passes leisurely through Palestine 
without being constantly impressed with the idea of the 
past populousness of this country. This impression will 
result from the ruins which constantly present themselves 
in his course. Closely connected with this impression will 
be that of its pristine richness and fertility. But there 
are hills and fields, of unnumbered acres of land, 
which scarcely deserve the name of soil, and where 
almost nothing is seen but the gray foundation-rock, or 
thousands of fragments of this rock so thickly crowded 
upon the land that you might ride over it with the idea 
that some fearful explosion once broke massive rocks 
into these sharp-edged, cragged pieces and scattered 
them in wonderful profusion over the face of the 
country. I have stood on the top of a peak and looked 
in vain for miles around for a hill where my eye might 
light with joy upon some noble forest rising upon 
and crowning the summits with verdure and softness ; 
but not one solitary tree could be seen, even with my 
glass. I have ridden fifteen and twenty miles through 
paths where it appeared to me that the foot of my horse 



ROCKY ROADS. 



501 



had for all that length never once touched the soft soil, 
and where the pathway was often so narrow in the solid 
rock that for a short distance the passage for his feet 
did not measure eight inches in width, and in some 
cases he must step down seventeen or eighteen 
inches abruptly to gain his next footing. I have passed 
over what my Arab guide called a path, but which I 
should have pronounced utterly impassable, and should 
not have attempted, had not my guide preceded me 
upon the sharp cutting points which pointed upward 
and through the wedge-like crevices into which my horse 
for some distance continued to step. Often our horses 
would have slipped if they had not been prevented by 
the six large-headed nails which, protruding a half-inch 
from the surface of the plates with which they are shod, 
act as inserting points. 

We have already been thus travelling some two 
hundred miles on horseback and on foot, and probably 
much farther, and have always noticed the land and 
soil with a view to answer in our own minds the 
question in reference to its fertility. Despite the 
desolation and barrenness of the parts described 
above, we find evidences that Palestine, as a whole 
country, was one of former excellent culture and 
of the richest produce. In answer to the assertion 
of barrenness so often made by travellers, one thing 
is worthy of constant recognition, — which is the fact 
that, from the nature of travel here, visitors to the 
Holy Land must find their route along water-courses 
and in valleys where there is a nakedness greatly due 



502 



SOILS OF THE COUNTRY. 



to the attrition of the winter- torrents. In many places 
the rocky land is chosen, being preferable to soil because 
of the lightness and exceeding softness of the latter, 
which in some places renders it almost, if not quite, 
impassable in the rainy season. These facts make the 
country appear to travellers more barren than it 
really is. 

But, notwithstanding the surface of the country is gene- 
rally hilly and rocky, no one can visit many of the dis- 
tricts of Palestine without occasionally crossing plains 
of such exceeding extent and richness as to form great 
contrasts to all that we have spoken of. Many plains, 
however, are beyond the ordinary route of travel. 

There appear to be four varieties of soil in Palestine, 
the poorest being a white and rather heavy soil, par- 
taking much of the nature of the surrounding rock, and 
containing probably both lime and magnesia. From 
external signs, it does not seem susceptible of such a rich 
culture as another class of soil which abounds through- 
out Palestine. This is a dark-brown and light soil, quite 
loose and arable. The former appeared in the vicinity 
of Samaria, where in some places it was nearly white. 
The latter was seen in many parts of Palestine and in 
the plain of Esdraelon, east of Mt. Carmel, and its 
ranges, and in the plain and valley south and east of 
Shechem, the present Nabulus. Here it was cultivated, 
and appeared to excellent advantage. The third kind 
is a tufa soil, a dark brown, and, we think, similar to 
the volcanic soil in the region of Rome. It does not 
appear to be of the same brown shade, nor of the same 



VARIETY OF SOILS. 



503 



nature, as the general brown soil so prevalent in Pales- 
tine. It is principally confined to the east of the shores 
of the Lake of Tiberias, and west of this district to a part 
of the valley of the Jordan, so far as we have yet ex- 
amined. The fourth variety is a dark soil, almost black, 
and in some places from two to three feet deep. From the 
rankness of vegetation, it appears to be the richest of all. 
Of this we have seen little, so far, compared with the 
whole surface of the country. The largest tract com- 
posed of this last soil is upon the plains near Tyre, 
which can only be said to be on the northern borders of 
Palestine proper. 

To these may be added one or two slight variations, 
merely due to a little admixture of soils. On the whole 
review, the brown soil is found to be most widely dis- 
tributed, formed in part of disentegrated foundation- 
rock of the country, composed of lime and probably some 
small parts of magnesia, which I think exists largely in 
the rock near Samaria and souA of the plain of 
Esdraelon. The soil is not heavy, but exceedingly 
arable, and the Bedouins scratch into its surface with 
their dull-pointed ploughs with perfect ease after the 
rain, however hard it may have been before. The single 
plain of Esdraelon, with its magnificent offsets, contains 
thousands of acres of this kind of land, which, if it 
could be subjected to the treatment that some of our 
lands receives in America, would yield wonderfully be- 
yond any thing that it probably has been brought to do 
in many centuries past. 

In addition to the above general description of the soil, 



504 VIRGIN SOIL OF PALESTINE. 

there is a particular fact of greater interest. Professor 
Roth has with great care gathered some of the virgin 
soil near Jerusalem, which, through the kindness of 
Dr. Lyman Coleman, of Philadelphia, has been placed in 
my possession. This, on a careful analysis, presents to 
view every ingredient that the most productive soil could 
possess. Such a soil as this, — the unexhausted repre- 
sentative of the pristine soil of Palestine, — in connection 
with the temperature and the seasons of this latitude, 
must be a credible witness to the truth of all that history 
has ever asserted as to its productiveness, and the con- 



sequent populousness. 1 

Moisture 10.699 per ct. 

Organic Matter 4.953 

Sesquioxide of Iron 10.463 " 

Alumina 13.425 " 

Magnesia 0.844 " 

Lime 5.280 " 

Soda... 0.179 " 

Potash 0.701 " 

Soluble Silicic Acid 5.987 " 

Phosphoric Acid.. # 0.133 

Sulphuric Acid 0.087 " 

Carbonic Acid 2.487- " 

Chloride of Sodium 0.054 " 

Insoluble in dilute acids 44.570 " 



99.862 

The soil partakes of the color of the second kind de- 
scribed above, and is most prevalent in the country. The 



1 No analysis could be conducted with more care than has been bestowed 
upon the above. It has been twice made, and the first most satisfactorily 
corroborated by the second analysis of Dr. F. A. Genth, who has spent much 
time upon it and exhibited great skill, especially in the development of the 
phosphoric acid, which has by some been considered not determinable by 
analysis. In this case the determination was perfectly satisfactory. The 
insoluble portion consisted chiefly of silica and silicate of alumina. 



ANCIENT TERRACES. 



505 



brown color is due to the iron. The phosphoric acid, — 
so important to wheat and clover, and found even in 
the straw of the former, — the potash, and the soluble 
silicic acid, are characteristic features in that soil 
most capable of producing the largest class of all the 
agricultural and horticultural articles of the finest 
markets in the world. Add to this another fact. 
Captain Lynch, U.S.N., informs me that, in the survey 
conducted under his direction, he found hills which 
presented the remains of as many as twenty-five dis- 
tinct terraces, plainly showing that hills now neglected 
and considered incapable of cultivation were once 
clothed with vegetation. Dr. Coleman also noticed 
the remains of terraces in the wilderness-parts of 
Judea southeast of Bethlehem. The same fact was 
evident to us in many places on the north of Jerusalem, 
as well as on the road to the plain of Jericho. The 
debris and rocks of former terraces ten miles east of Je- 
rusalem, while they render cultivation under the pre- 
sent method out of the question, were at the same time 
the downfallen monuments of the former industry and 
prosperity of the people. 

But the efforts of Mr. Meshullum, of Wady Urtas, and 
of " the industrial settlement" near the pools of Solomon, 
southwest of Bethlehem, enable us to add to the above the 
facts of present produce. Both bald and bearded wheat 
are cultivated, and specimens of the latter which I ob- 
tained were as even-grained, as full and heavy, as any we 
had ever seen. The grape-vines of this settlement are 
reported to yield to one vine " one hundred bunches of 

32* 



506 



PRESENT PROOFS OF FERTILITY. 



grapes, each three feet long, and each grape three and 
a half inches in circumference." Every account of this 
settlement — though obtained in several instances from 
those who, from some cause, were displeased with the 
settlers, and showed an ill will to them — corroborated 
the statement which they have made in their re- 
port, that "they have Indian corn eleven feet high, 
watermelons of twenty, thirty, and forty pounds' weight, 
and bean-pods thirteen inches long and six on each 
stem. Their quince-trees yield six hundred quinces 
each, which are larger than the largest apples of New 
England ; and a single citron-tree yields five hundred 
and ten pounds of fruit," 1 

This may explain the wonderful fertility predicated 
of this country by early writers, and which seems to be so 
poorly sustained by the appearance of the land at the 
present day. One author — writing about a.d. 100 — says, 
" The men are sound and robust : rains are unfrequent, 
and the soil is fertile" 2 Another — two hundred and fifty 
years later — says, " The last of the Syrias is Palestine, 
a country full of good and well-cultivated land, and where 
there are some beautiful cities, which do not yield to 
one another in any respect, but have a sort of equality 
which makes them rivals." 3 Josephus, of course, says 
much in praise of the fertility of his land; 4 but we 

1 See Coleman's Hist, Text-Book and Atlas, ed. 1859, p. 79. 

2 Tacitus, Hist., book v. ch. 6. 

3 Ammianus Marcellinus, lib. xiv. c. 8. 

4 Josephus, Wars of the Jews, ch. 2, speaks of pleasant gardens and 
trees, not now existing. In Antiq. ix. 1, 2, he speaks of the richest balsam 
and of palm-trees where there are none at present. 



PAST DESCRIPTIONS. 



507 



need not depend upon his testimony entirely, so many 
of that day bear him out in his descriptions. Chosroes, 
King of Persia, " had an extreme desire to make himself 
master of Palestine, on account of its extraordinary fer- 
tility, its wealth, and the great number of its inhabitants." 1 
The Saracens feared lest Omar, taken with the fertility 
of the country, would remain there, and never return 
to Medina. 2 

The medals stamped with the impress of grapes, 
as we have shown upon the coin of Herod, (page 
486,) the figure of the palm-tree so frequently seen 
on other medals stamped by Yespasian and Titus, 
and the medal of young Agrippa holding fruits, all 
indicate the excellence of the country. Notwithstand- 
ing all this, Mr. Gibbon remarks, speaking of Phoenicia 
and Palestine, 3 " The former of these was a narrow and 
rocky coast; the latter was a territory scarcely superior 
to Wales either in fertility or extent. Yet Phoenicia 
and Palestine will ever live in the memory of man- 
kind, since America as well as Europe has received 
letters from the one and religion from the other." M. 
Guizot makes the following remark on this error of 
Mr. Gibbon : — " This comparison is exaggerated with 
the intention, no doubt, of attacking the authority of the 
Bible, which extols the fertility of Palestine." What Mr. 
Gibbon's intentions were is a matter of little importance ; 
for the fact is that history is against the historian. As 

1 Procopius of Caesarea, who lived in the sixth century. 

2 Ockley, Hist of Saracens, p. 279. 

3 Chap. i. p. 21. 



508 



gibbon's remark. 



M. Guizot supposes, he based his remark upon a passage 
in Strabo, 1 who speaks only of the country around Jeru- 
salem, which he says was unfruitful and arid for sixty 
stadia, (probably five or six miles; 2 ) in other places 
giving excellent testimony to the fertility of Palestine. 
He says, "About Jericho is a forest of palm-trees, and 
the country for a hundred stadia is full of springs and 
well peopled." Furthermore, Strabo had never seen 
Palestine. He only speaks from the reports of others, 
which w T ere very likely to be as incorrect as those from 
which he wrote his description of Germany, in which 
Cluvier has exposed so many errors. 3 

We had now completed our surveys and examina- 
tions about Jerusalem, much of which has been antici- 
pated by the work of Dr. Barclay in the " City of the 
Great King." The survey of the wall, which included 
every angle, however small, gave us, in the entire cir- 
cumference, forty-six bastion-towers and angles, four 
gateways open, and two miles and three-quarters' cir- 
cuit, or, accurately, two miles and three-quarters lacking 



*Bk. xvi. 1104. 

2 The Boman stadium was adopted from the Greek, and therefore the 
same for distances and for nautical and astronomical measurements. 
It was equal to six hundred Greek or six hundred and twenty-five Roman 
feet, or to one hundred and twenty-five Roman paces; and the Roman 
mile contained eight stadia, (Herod, ii. 149; Pliny, Hist. Nat. ii. 23.) 
These data give us six hundred and six feet nine inches English for the 
"stadium," — so called from the fact of its being the exact length of the 
stadium or foot-race at Olympia. Hence the Olympic stadium, the stand- 
ard measure of Greece. This is the most correct measurement, and is fully 
sustained in the Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities of Wm. Smith, 
LL.D., Boston, 1854. 

3 Cluv. Germ. Ant. bk. iii. chap. 1, cited by Guizot, notes to Gibbon. 



EXACT MEASUREMENT OF 



THE WALL. 



509 



one hundred and forty-five feet, — in feet, fourteen thou- 
sand four hundred and four. It will be interesting to 
some to examine all the measurements, and perhaps to 
project the wall accurately on paper and see the position 
of the numerous towers and wall-angles. For the 
pleasure of those who desire, I have in xlppendix IX. 
entered all these bearings from my note-book. 



510 



LAST VIEW OF JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

DEPARTURE FOR THE PLAIN OF SHARON. 

Our course now, from circumstances not anticipated 
at first, was to lead west to Joppa, whence we afterward 
decided to leave for Alexandria instead of returning on 
the coast to Beirut. 

The thermometer to-day indicated a temperature of 
forty degrees, the lowest we have yet experienced; 
and, riding out in advance of our company, I obtained 
a final view of Jerusalem. Three-quarters of a mile 
from the city the triple top of the ridge of the Mount of 
Olives is plainly seen, with the church and minaret on 
the centre peak ; but nothing can be seen of the Mosque 
of Omar. The most prominent towers are the two 
square turrets of Hippicus and one minaret to the 
right. At the southern extremity of the city, and out- 
side of the walls, is the minaret rising from the centre 
of the little cluster of buildings around the tomb and 
Mosque of David, where also is the reputed place of 
the Last Supper. Though we cherish an expecta- 
tion that at some future time, we know not when or 
how, we shall yet return, we leave with some degree 
of sadness, and, turning westward, press on our course. 



ROADS WEST OF 



JERUSALEM. 



511 



Four miles northwest from the convent, after passing a 
vineyard, we arrive at a little village, Kulonieh, on 
the east side of a small hill, and composed of twenty 
or thirty houses. Up to this place the road is exceed- 
ingly stony, and the soil in its reddish hue reminds us 
of that which we had seen around Safed. A few 
minutes more, and we pass a little stone bridge, and 
then some massive and architectural ruins, which one 
of the Arabs called El Jib; but otherwise he seemed 
to know little of them. Here, also, were beautiful 
orange-groves, with fruit just ripening. We have been 
passing up a valley for some time, and in forty minutes 
after leaving Kulonieh we arrived near the top of the 
hill, which, with the ruin on its top, a quarter of a mile 
to our left, appeared as represented below. Presently we 




arrive at a little clear-running brook, and at some short 
distance toward our left is Shoba or Soba, and the Rama- 
thaim Zophim of Scripture, as Dr. Robinson supposes. 



512 



RAMATHAIM ZOPHIM. 



How many efforts have been made to identify the birth- 
place of Samuel ! If any one will consult the nume- 
rous passages wherein Rainah occurs, 1 it will be seen 
that there were so many Ram ah s as to suggest the 
necessity of distinguishing the places called by this name. 
Ramah signified a hill ; and the method adopted of 
distinguishing the hills was by adding the name of the 
country in which they were situated. Thus, we have 
the Ramah of Gilead, of Benjamin, and of Zophim, 
— Soba being similar to Zopha, which is a singular 
form of the word of which Zophim is the plural. The 
names Ramathaim Zophim signify " the double heights 
of the watchmen." Now, the ruin-covered hill of Soba 
and its adjoining height, with the elevation, on which is 
a ruined tower in the distance between them, make a 
little group of Ramahs, which from our position, looking 
southwest, we see as in the sketch on the following page. 

On the two hills, in the foreground, are ruins broken 
down to the ground, with not so much as a corner of a 
building standing. Here may have been the birthplace 
of Samuel, — here was Naioth, which word may mean 
the "University seat," 2 or, more properly, "the dwellings" 
of the prophets, — and here Saul was found "among 
the prophets." Beyond the two ruined-covered tops is a 
tower in the distance, which appeared perfectly square 
through my glass. Riding on, we came to a village on 
the side of the hill facing northward, containing an 

1 See the passages, which are all noted in the Geographical Appendix. 

2 So my friend Dr. Leeser supposes ; but, if I might be permitted to 
differ at all, I should suppose simply the " dwellings' 7 of the prophets, the 
"Naioth" of Ramoth. See Geographical Appendix. 



RUINS OF A CHURCH. 513 




S H O B A. 



interesting and venerable church-building still in some 
degree of preservation. The rain was dripping through 
groined arches springing from square columns mea- 
suring forty-one inches on each side, which from 
their massiveness and the dimness of the light had a 
most sombre and melancholy appearance. The birds 
were fluttering among the arches; and there were evi- 
dences of its conversion into a stable. On the exterior 
appear some styles -of cathedral-moulding which have 
been adopted of late years; and the building has one 
door at the end, at which we entered, and one large arched 
window opposite the entrance. It was once a magnificent 
and massive building, — filled with the Christian hosts 
as from time to time they gathered into Palestine 
during the Crusades. Now it is entered on horseback, 
because of the mud on the ground beneath the leaking 

33 



514 



PLAIN OF SHARON. 



stone roof, and nothing is within but a melancholy si- 
lence, ruin, and desertion. One of the Arabs pronounced 
the name of the village Bo-osh. Not far off we obtain 
a view of the Mediterranean as seen over the plain of 
Sharon. 




FIRST VIEW OF THE PLAIN OF SHARON. 



In the plain is a distant minaret; and the little cluster 
of white buildings around it, brightly reflecting the sun's 
rays, marks the site of Lydda of the New Testament. 
How beautiful these villages look in the distance, espe- 
cially Lydda, in the midst of the plain of Sharon 
and with the cheerful waters of the Mediterranean 
beyond ! And yet I should expect to break the illusion 
should I set foot within its precincts. The soil at 
one o'clock is of a darker brown; and yet no volcanic 
fragments have been seen since we left Eriha. Near 
Jerusalem, or in its latitude, we have experienced such 



CONCERT OF BIRDS. 



515 



rapid changes, and so different from the character of 
the climate farther north, that we are not surprised 
to hear of agues and fevers being 'prevalent in and 
around the city. This morning the thermometer stood 
at forty degrees; but now, in the sun, it is at seventy. 

Passing a little village pronounced Avroon, or Abrun, 
we ride upon the plain, the soil of which is dark and rich ; 
and not far off is a solitary block of stone, five or six feet 
in length, beveled after the Eoman style of building. 
I cannot conceive what purpose caused this well-shaped 
stone to be brought here and half buried in the plain, to 
be left entirely by itself. We have at several times passed 
little green lizards and others of different shades; but 
now there appears one with a broad head and back 
and a peculiar roughness. It appears to be a species 
which I have never seen in America, but it is quite 
common here. Some of the lizards, I am told, are 
from twelve to sixteen inches in length ; and Dr. Robin- 
son speaks of one three feet eight inches long, found 
near the Dead Sea. 1 On our left the ground seems 
perfectly alive from the chirping of birds, though not 
one can be seen ; yet we know they are there, for we saw 
a cloud of birds settle on the ground. The chirping is 
most singular, coming as it does from the throats of 
six or eight hundred little birds each seeming intent 
on being heard. 

At twenty minutes before three o'clock we pass 
another little village, the name pronounced Obeb; and 
after one hour we can distinctly see the houses and 



1 Robinson's Biblical Researches, vol. ii. p. 253. 



516 



RAMLEH. 



surrounding gardens of Ramleh, which in the distance 
seems the most charming place without walls that we 
have yet seen. There are, I think, three minarets; 
and on the right, and apart from the village, is a lone 
tower of considerable beauty. Between it and the vil- 
lage is a dark-green olive-forest; and the prickly-pear 
adds interest to the scene, though it is so common. 
On the outskirts, and to our left, is a man industriously 
washing some clothes, while two women stand by and 
look on. If we were inclined to moralize, we might 
account for the cleanly appearance of Ramleh in the 
distance from the fact that even men wash the clothes; 
but, before we could have had time to enjoy such a 
thought, we found that Ramleh as seen on the plain in 
the distance is not Ramleh "at home" or on entrance; 
and through the mud and a crowd of Mohammedan 
pedestrians we reach the convent. The Superior has 
been here but a year, and speaks only Italian; but he is 
accommodating, and shows that he did not leave his 
brandy in Italy, but politely offers it to us in " little 
thimbleful glasses," which, with appreciation for his 
kindness, we decline, and are dismissed to our little 
rooms. How very tame the birds are in this land! 
As we entered the orange and lemon grove in the 
yard of the convent, they scarcely moved from the 
branches near to which our horses' heads were passing; 
and the little creatures only run out of our way on 
the plain, scarcely attempting to fly. 

This day, though no cloud or tempest has appeared in 
the sky, has been completed by a storm on the part of 



LOST 



TEMPERS 



IN TRAVELLING. 



517 



Hanna, and that with our cook Nicolo. Hanna rages till 
I wonder why the Superior does not go down to defend 
the convent against assault; and on descending I 
find that the cause of the tempest is the disappear- 
ance of a little butter, which at last is found in 
an unsuspected place. How disagreeable are these 
moments of anger! A fight with the Bedouins, a 
tumble down hill with a few bruises, losing one's way 
on the mountains at midnight, or a night-attack by 
robbers as you are sleeping in your tent, are each 
scenes of trial; but they are scenes of some life, some 
manliness, where courage may be exhibited at least on 
one side, and where the memory of the event may afford 
something to be recalled. But scenes of passion, where 
nothing is to be remembered but the fact that the 
offender, however honored he may have been in your 
circle, has left a lasting image of his weakness in your 
recollections of the past, and has obtruded the selvedge- 
end of his humanity upon the pleasures of the journey, 
leave nothing behind that does not make you feel ashamed 
to remember or guilty if you mention it. Escape from 
even contagion and disease suggest some thought, some 
feature which is memorable ; but one's lost temper, — how 
useless it is, how unavailable to the smallest item of 
interest in after-recollections ! No victory so worthless, 
so mean, as that gained over another's passion, none so 
glorious as that achieved over one's own. 

No one is accomplished in the art of pre- 
serving his temper who has not tried his steel as a 
pilgrim in the East in company. No two desire to go 



518 



VEXATIONS ON THE ROUTE. 



to the same place, to stay the same length of time, or, 
having stayed, to leave together. Their loves must be 
like those of Jonathan and David if they experi- 
ence no variances of judgment and sometimes of 
decision, which, though forgiven, are apt to remain 
in the recollection, as the little stain-spots do after the 
mud has been brushed off our robes. How many 
incidents of trial, how many encounters and "unmen- 
tionable" little things, have occurred to the traveller, 
which could never appear before the public, and 
some of which many would prefer not to mention to 
their friends! How many little beauties spring into 
life along the pathway to vanish before they can be 
described! And, moreover, how many minute vexa- 
tions is the flesh heir to in this land in various ways ! 
How often have we enjoyed a laugh at the expense of 
some dignified ones who never could sleep at home 
if the merry laugh of a child was heard in the nursery 
after the time they had set for silence, and who are 
forced here to sleep amid the braying of asses, the 
barking of dogs, and the more annoying attacks of a 
smaller race, their less noisy but more indefatigable tor- 
mentors. 

This morning we leave for Joppa. The thermometer 
stands at forty-eight degrees, at a quarter before eight 
o'clock, in the shade. Before leaving Ramleh we visit 
the ruins of an ancient church said to have belonged 
to the Knights Templars. It is a short distance out of 
the village, and the ruins are the most remarkable for 
extent and magnificence of any church-ruins we have 



ANCIENT CLOISTERS. 



519 



yet seen. They cover, with the cloisters, several acres ; 
and under ground there are rows of massive arches and 
columns which are astonishing for their perfection and 
complete preservation. The cloisters above are sup- 
ported by arches and square columns for several hun- 
dred feet in one direction, and with a little variation from 
the same manner in other directions. Near one side of 
this court-yard, or cloister-yard, is a very symmetrical 
and beautifully-finished tower or campanile. Into this 
I entered and ascended one hundred and seventeen 
steps, the highest ten being those which belong to the 
smaller tower at the top, which is square. From this 
top the view of the country is surpassingly beauti- 
ful, varied, and extensive, and Ramleh puts on its most 
attractive appearance. The mountains west of Jeru- 
salem lie humbled in the distance. The plain of Sharon 
stretches along to the east some distance before reach- 
ing the mountains. The Mediterranean is seen on one 
side, and on the other the little villages, some of which 
are on the mountain-side in the far distance, sending up 
their morning smoke. There are rich olive-groves around 
the tower, with more palm-trees in and about the village 
beneath than I have seen at any previous time in Syria. 

Having descended, we were soon on our way across 
the plain, which is sandy, — the only sandy road we 
have yet travelled in Palestine proper. 1 Soon after 

1 On this pleasant plain there are large numbers of the little brown bird 
of sparrow-like form, already spoken of, and having a top-knot, and also a 
new bird, of a glossy and very dark color, gradually lighter toward the 
tail, with a very characteristic and pleasant iridescence of yellowish green 
around the neck, flying something like the partridge just before descent, 
or like the lark, and with short pointed wings similar in form to the latter. 



520 SHAKING- PRATERS. 

leaving Ranileh we have the following view of it, with its 
minarets on the left, the olive-grove, and the campanile 
to the top of which I ascended, on the right and out of the 
town. In the foreground are the tombs of a Moham- 




medan cemetery, where we met about fifty men and 
women scattered over the ground. The men were 
calmly smoking around different tombs, with their backs 
to the women, who were engaged repeating aloud and 
in unison some prayers. ' Several held little dark 
cloths, like handkerchiefs, waving them to and fro in 
the belief that the prayers written upon them are 
more surely heard by being shaken, so that sometimes, 
as a labor-saving expedient, their desires are written 

Its size is that of a large sparrow or a small partridge. This, with the ordinary 
dove seen at Jerusalem and around it, makes the twenty-second variety 
noticed. I have also seen a gray hawk, and am told that there are several 
varieties. 



NO WAGONS IN PALESTINE. 



521 



on silk flags and put out of the windows, that the wind 
may save them the toil of shaking their prayers. 

Now we see something reminding us of a road- but 
we have seen no wagons in Palestine. All the lum- 
ber, rocks, merchandise, &c. is transported on the 
backs of camels and mules. No wheels roll in Pales- 
tine ! Two hours' ride from Jaffa I found lying in the 
sandy road sea-shells, evidently worn smooth by the 
waves of the sea. These shells are recent 1 and identi- 
cal with those found on the shore at Jaffa. I find 
them off the road and scattered over the plain for miles ; 
and hence I am led to doubt whether they were trans- 
ported here by any other force than that of the waves 
of the sea, which at some remote period covered this 
plain for miles east of Jaffa. At one and a half hours' 
ride from the town we came to a little mosque, a 
quarter of a mile before reaching the little mud village 
dignified by the name of Yasoor. This mosque has nine 
little domes on its square top, arranged three on each 
side and one in the centre, and looking to all intents 
like a set of large Dutch baking-ovens, built here that the 
baker might avail himself of the custom at Jaffa. The 
mosque is surrounded by tombs. On ascending a small 
undulation, Jaffa is seen built on a somewhat conical 
elevation, and appearing white in the sun. We are 
now soon among the suburban red clay or mud huts; 
and on either side are the most beautiful, the greenest, 
and the largest orange-groves I have seen since leaving 
Florida. The birds seem to enjoy the groves as much 



1 Pectens. 

S3* 



522 



THE SULTAN S SOLDIERS. 



as ourselves, and their presence adds to the charming 
beauty which surrounds us. The scene is fairylike. 
Every thing is cheerful and bright, and the beautiful 
fruit hangs like gold upon the branches. The very 
fragrance of the oranges is perceptible. Eeluctantly we 
leave our beautiful visions and the fragrance of the 
groves to encounter the inner realities of the town. We 
enter after passing a crowd of orange-merchants. Jaffa 
has two gates, opening, of course, upon muddy streets. 
Some of these streets are wider than others, but only by 
a few inches, and do not allow of the description of J affa 
as having wide streets. Perhaps with a little stretching 
of my tape some of the streets might measure ten ivhole 
feet; perhaps by another pull I might say ten feet one 
inch; but this is the utmost for the widest streets. 

The bazaars seem well supplied, and some houses appear 
more like wholesale stores than any we have hitherto seen 
in the land. In order to traverse the city, we have to as- 
cend a flight of steps in one place, and from an elevated 
situation we find that there are eight or nine vessels in 
port. This afternoon I have taken a daguerreotype- 
view of the city from a point on the south of the town, 
which is very accurately represented in the view on the 
following page. The large wall encloses the barracks of 
the Turkish garrison now at Jaffa. We pass through 
the parade-ground outside the walls. The recruits are a 
raw set, though the Sultan's soldiers. They are in 
training as we pass, in their European pantaloons, and 
standing in rank, with their hands by their sides 
stretched downward as stiffly as though they had been 



TRAINING. 



523 




subject to cramp from infancy. In this spasmodic 
posture they march off to the order, "right," "left," 
"right," "left," given in Arabic, putting down the 
corresponding foot with a motion so galvanically posi- 
tive that it is to the utmost degree ridiculous. Some 
march with "heads up," as if an invisible being was 
painfully balanced on the tip of the prominent feature 
of their faces; and thus, with down-stretched arms 
and elevated noses, the pride of Egypt — or rather 
of the Sultan — moves onward, the captains all the 
time looking as if the cholera was to be the result of 
every step they took. These men, or a large part of 
them, we met on our approach to the city engaged 
in the elevating employment of washing the 
clothes of themselves and the army in general. On 
returning to our lodgings we passed several schools, 
where all the children seemed very busily engaged, 



524 



ROSE OF SHARON. 



sitting, as usual, on the ground cross-legged. At the 
convent, we ascended until we reached a room looking 
out upon the sea; and to-night we shall again sleep 
with its roar sounding around us. To-day I made in- 
quiries of some intelligent natives in reference to the 
cultivation of the rose upon the plain of Sharon, which 
we had passed. That variety of the rose familiar to 
Europeans does not seem to be known by those natives 
of our company, nor by any of their friends, as a rose 
found upon this plain ; but that it does grow uncultivated 
in Palestine is evident from the fact that somewhere 
north of Jerusalem, and between Jenin and Bireh, we 
passed roses growing wild ; and such may formerly have 
been the case here. So, with the rose of Sharon still on 
our minds, we close the day and the week. 



HOUSE OF DORCAS. 



525 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

JOPPA — DEPARTURE FOR MALTA — HOMEWARD. 

The air to-day is pleasant and mild, which yesterday at 
the same hour was uncomfortably cool. 1 It is the Sabbath 
morning ; and after breakfast, and some scriptural read- 
ings in reference to Joppa, we set out in search of a place 
of worship. A gentlemanly Maltese accompanied me 
to the British consul's, where we found that "prayers 
were over," from which I inferred that he was in the 
habit of reading the service every Sunday morning; but 
we thought it an unusually early hour, as it was about 
ten o'clock. The service is regularly attended by 
eight or ten. On our return, we passed the house 
of " Simon the tanner," which, as written, (Acts x. 6,) 
is " by the seaside." There is an old wall still remain- 
ing, said to be part of the house of Dorcas, but more 
probably of the Simon with whom St. Peter stayed, or, 
perhaps, in the opinion of some, the house of neither. 
But I am not inclined to doubt tradition even in this; for 
the location and appearances are in favor of the supposi- 
tion, though the place has evidently been altered ; and 
in an adjoining room we noticed, on the following day, 

1 Thermometer 62° at three r.M. in the shade, 75° in the sun. At sunset, 
or a quarter-past five o'clock, 59°. 



526 



CHILDREN IN THE CHURCH-SERVICE. 



a massive ribbed arch, from which we supposed that the 
date of its erection could not have been earlier than the 
twelfth century. It is used as a place of worship by the 
Mohammedans. A piastre was given to the keeper; but 
he complained that it was not sufficient, and I added 
another, waiting to see if he would ask for more. But 
nothing further was said. If I had not had the appear- 
ance of a Frank, a half-piastre would have satisfied him. 

In the convent, which is large, there is a chapel; and, 
hearing the sound of voices proceeding from it, I entered, 
and found fifty females in a little gallery. A few others 
were below, with white cloths thrown over them, in 
appearance resembling the penitents in the streets 
and processions at Naples. Some boys were near the 
altar, and two rows of men kneeling in lines leading 
from them to the door. On my left as I faced the 
altar were three little boys, the middle one bearing a 
large crucifix, the others lighted candles. After a little 
chanting in Arabic, they left the church and in a short 
time returned. It was to me very interesting to see 
these Syrian children, both boys and girls, perform their 
parts in the service and seem to enter into the 
spirit so well. And though I wish them a better 
faith, one which has more of the promise of the life 
that now is, as well as of that which is to come, 
I could not but feel interested in the artlessness of 
their actions. Several little girls were on my left, and 
one quite prettily dressed, in apparently a "mousseline de 
laine," of a cream color and figured, made after the style 
of " the Philistines," to-be-sure, with the " trowsers pat- 



GREEK CHAPEL. 



527 



tern/' but quite pleasing in her perfect simplicity; 
and when all the adults, at a certain part of the service, 
raised and extended their hands, little " mousseline de 
laine" did the same, with a number of others, and all 
so innocently, and with such perfect good nature and 
sprightliness, that we w^ere quite interested in them. 
Who would be otherwise? The contrast to a 
scene of yesterday came to my mind. I was returning 
from a walk beyond the walls, and, passing by a com- 
pany of native children of Mohammedan parentage, sit- 
ting by the wall, I accosted them pleasantly, as I had 
frequently done before to the country-children. But the 
little creatures acted as though they had never before 
been spoken to kindly, and ran off in their rags and fear. 

This afternoon we visited the Greek church at time 
of service, which commenced at the close of the Latin 
service, at four o'clock. Only eight were present be- 
sides ourselves ; and three of that number were priests. 
One, in repeating the prayers in Arabic, went over the 
form with such rapidity as to astonish my companion, 
who was a Maltese and well acquainted with the lan- 
guage. The rapidity, attended at the same time with 
a tolerable distinctness in enunciation, was utterly 
indescribable, unless I should compare it to the enun- 
ciatory puffs of a locomotive steaming at the rate 
of sixty miles an hour. The chapel is a musty, 
confined, and dim-looking room, hung around with 
pictures of the apostles and of others in gilt frames, 
with some antiquated candelabra having drops few and 
far between. The Armenian convent was still more 



528 



INTERESTING CHILDREN. 



forsaken ; for here were only two, — one " father confessor" 
and one confessing. 1 On returning, a little bright-eyed 
girl, with a rosy complexion, peeped out from a small 
balcony, and, when I noticed her with a slight motion 
of the head, cried out, in Italian, " A good-afternoon to 
you, sir." She was not more than six or seven years 
old. I also passed some little boys, one of whom ac- 
costed me in Greek with "Kaleen nihta" "Good-after- 
noon, sir." I am told that this often happens among 
the children who learn a little of foreign languages with 
which to address Franks. 

Before dinner to-day I found that the children of 
my Maltese companion were Greeks. They read for 
me in my Greek Testament, down to the smallest boy, 
who was only nine years old. They read the Greek 
with great ease. Their pronunciation was somewhat 
like to that of some of our colleges, except that there 
appeared to be a stricter use of the accents, even 
where the vowel would seem to militate against 



1 On passing to our lodgings, we noticed on the rocks a bird -with white 
feathers, in places shaded with a dark gray, of the size of a sparrow-hawk, 
the bill apparently one and a quarter inches in length. It was astonishing to 
see him fly up and balance himself some twenty or thirty feet from the 
water, and then descend rapidly to the surface and beneath it, bringing out 
a fish about two inches, sometimes two and a half, long. His sight must have 
been exceedingly sharp to see at that distance, especially as the water was 
not very clear. When in the air, his head was kept so steady that I could 
not notice that it moved at all, while his wings were fluttering rapidly. He 
descended five times, each time bringing out a fish, which I cannot 
think he ate but in part. I noticed here another bird, — probably a mota- 
cilla, — in search of something in the water, about the same size as the latter 
or somewhat smaller, of a light lead color, with a long bill, of active 
movements like the snipe, and searching principally around the rocks for 
food. These will make two additional varieties, the last the 24th. 



NEW METHOD OF TREATING. 



529 



their power. The word mog, which is generally pro- 
nounced weos, they pronounce eos, and the £ like Jt, as 
in New Haven and some other places. The little hoy 
trilled the p with a peculiar trill which we have noticed 
elsewhere. These children have had the first advantages 
in Greece. The ancient with the modern Greek is 
taught in the schools at present. 

This morning my Maltese friend told me that 
his son had been stabbed to death in Greece. The 
murderer applied to the father, and offered him two 
thousand dollars if he would appear in court in such 
a way and with such defective evidence that the 
murderer might escape. But the reply was, " The 
law shall take its course." Some one urged that 
the man was drunk and therefore ought not to be 
punished. This is a common excuse for crime in 
Greece. But this case was evidently one of premedi- 
tated murder, and the reply of the father was, "Hang the 
liquor, then" Once, previously, a man murdered a com- 
panion : he escaped punishment capitally, by paying a 
large sum of money. He then committed murder a 
second time; and now it was asked, "What will you do ? 
he was drunk, and now is sober." " Let him get drunk 
again," was the reply, " and then tell the people you are 
not going to hang Johannes, but the liquor that mur- 
dered : hang that, and let Johannes go free." 

"'Pray, what will become of Johannes?" persisted 
the company. 

" Why, if Johannes was not intimately connected 
with the liquor, maybe he will escape, being innocent; 

34 



530 



ORANGES. 



but if he was connected with it, then he ought to suffer 
with the criminal." This was the plan suggested in 
Greece. 

Up to this moment we expected to return by the 
coast to the north ; but the appearance of a steamer off 
the coast, bound for Alexandria, and the dissatisfaction 
we had all felt for some time past with our dragoman, 
determined a part of our company to leave for Malta by 
way of Alexandria. The mules and baggage had actually 
left Joppa for Csesarea; but a messenger was despatched 
to direct their return. A consideration was paid in 
view of the fact that our intended tour north was not 
taken, "backshish" given to our good-natured "Ni- 
colo" and to the muleteers, and we were soon on board 
an English steamer unexpectedly in port. We had pre- 
viously purchased several articles in the bazaar, among 
the rest, oranges, which were obtained at the rate of five 
for a half -piastre, or two cents, — which we considered very 
low ; but our Maltese friend informed us that we had paid 
too much. He returned with me and made the bar- 
gain himself at twenty for a piastre, that is, five for a 
cent ! The Joppa oranges have few or no seeds, and 
are considered preferable to others. 

This evening we embark, with a thrill of gladness 
at being among a crew of English and with a gen- 
tlemanly English captain in an English vessel. We 
feel as if almost at home already, though we have nearly 
six thousand miles yet to travel, and months may 
elapse before we shall leave Europe. With the 
English spoken all around, it appears as if a strain of 



QUARANTINE TROUBLES. 



531 



unusual but pleasing music had commenced, to which 
we had not listened for years. 

At Alexandria we encountered some trouble in leaving 
our vessel for one just then in port and bound for 
Malta and Marseilles. We were in quarantine because 
we had left the port of Joppa, and therefore were not 
permitted to land at Alexandria. At the same time, we 
must have our passports vise, or signed, by the consul at 
Alexandria before we could obtain passage on board the 
French steamer bound for Marseilles. What were we to 
do? This quarantine-custom is exceedingly trying, as 
well as ridiculous, especially as we have come from a 
place not more than twenty or thirty hours' sail from 
Egypt, under the same government, and during a perfect 
state of health in both countries, warranting perfect 
freedom from the plague. No one can take the smallest 
article from us — not a thread, not even a note — without 
becoming subject to the condition in which we are our- 
selves; that is. to a confinement for five days in the 
quarantine jail. 

Now, by accident, oversight, or intention, you may 
touch some person ; and, if you do, the unfortunate one 
touched is immediately dragged into quarantine with 
your own infected self; so a guardian attends us, 
with a little strip of yellow woollen cloth over his 
shoulder, indicative of the fact that he is, like our- 
selves, " infected,'' — outlawed. 

We are not permitted to go anywhere without a 
"guardian;" so, taking one with us in a boat with four 
sailors, we rowed for the French steamer, and, when 



532 



DISOBLIGING CONSULS. 



we had arrived, found that we could not become pas- 
sengers till we had applied at the " Palaistoria," where 
the captain was. Bowing thither, we found the 
captain, who directed us to get our tickets from the 
agent at a little barred room ; for, though he was captain, 
he knew no more of the prices of fare than a fish. So, 
passing on to the barred room which prevented us from 
going beyond, and accompanied by our guardian, we 
presented much the appearance of criminals in a jail. 
Here we met a little red-faced, bustling Frenchman, 
who knew not as much of good manners as a knowledge 
of his mother-tongue for only two days ought to have 
taught him. He informed us that our passports must 
be signed by our consul before he would give us tickets. 
Here was a difficulty. Our passports were nicely bound. 
My friend promptly gave his up, after tearing the con- 
tents, with its signatures, from the leather binding. 
For my part, not feeling inclined to destroy a little 
volume which I considered a relic, having the signa- 
tures of more than fifty various European consuls, I 
directed the agent to send to our consul and get a new 
passport made out for me. The object of tearing my 
friend's passport in the manner described was to avoid 
the fancied infection, as leather cannot be smoked 
clean, — so they say. The agent, after scolding us in 
French for our delay in presenting ourselves, as the 
consuls closed their offices at four o'clock, departed in 
search, and after some time returned with my friend's 
dishevelled passport and with no "vise:" the consul 
was out. So our only course was to apply to the 



NEARLY MADE PRISONERS. 



533 



captain, and, rowing back, our application was granted, 
on condition that we should obtain a " pass" at 
Malta. But, before we left the office, a little scene 
occurred, quite amusing, but which might have ended 
very differently. The agent appeared to need some 
explanation and designation of terms expressed on his 
papers; so, suddenly and unguardedly thrusting my 
hand through the bars which separated us, I touched 
his paper with my finger, and came very near touching 
himself, when I was startled by the guardian on my side 
snatching the paper away from the agent, who declared 
that lie was not touched, and so emphatically that both 
the guardians had to " give in." But it would have 
taken a very slight movement further on my part to 
have placed the agent in " durance vile" for five days. 

We were soon on the deck of the steamer, bound for 
Malta and Marseilles. The deck was covered with Turks 
from Mecca, with their wives, children, and slaves, 
bound homeward to Algiers; and we could scarcely 
walk without treading upon them. The wives of the 
wealthiest, especially of the principal sheiks, were 
lodged in the cabin-staterooms, and others in parts 
concealed from the main saloon by a curtain. As the 
curtain was frequently drawn aside, or the door to the 
principal stateroom in the clining-saloon opened, where 
the sheiks' wives were laid on the " shelves," the com- 
pany sometimes had a glimpse of their pale faces, 
otherwise kept strictly shrouded from the gaze of any 
Frank. Some of them were very white, with the 
usual glass bracelet around the wrist. The sheik of 



534 



SCENES ON SHIP-BOARD. 



the Algerines was on board, and his two or three 
wives in one of the saloons above mentioned. These 
are his favorite wives, who form only a part of his 
harem, and who have travelled with him to Mecca on 
the pilgrimage, for which they can wear the green 
turban; and I understand that this act of devotion 
entitles their children to wear the same down to 
the great-grandchild, who then makes the pilgrim- 
age that the honor may continue in the family. But 
these poor women ! I am surprised that they can en- 
dure this close confinement. Their greatest sin would 
be to permit a Frank to see their faces on deck; and 
yet, in the absence of their lord, it sometimes hap- 
pens in the cabin that they are seen. 

The sea was heavy and rough, and the boat pitched 
too much indeed for any one's comfort. But what a 
scene there was on deck! Alas for the sea-sick Turks 
and " Turkesses" above and below ! Their illness 
it would not be allowable for me to describe, so inex- 
orable was that old fellow Neptune in his demands 
for tribute from the hadjis, even to the uttermost. 
There were one hundred and thirty of them in this 
little steamer, crowded together in almost every posi- 
tion. The air was full of the " Turkish odor" so pecu- 
liarly their own ; for these fellows act as if they thought 
cleanliness a crime; and, to my own knowledge, many 
of the lower classes never think of washing their cloth- 
ing any more than a gentleman would think of washing 
his boots. Yet these are the men who call clean Chris- 
tians "dogs." Their manner of shaking hands is peculiar. 



COOKING 



FOR THE 



COMPANY. 



535 



They simply lay the tips of their fingers upon those of 
their friend, drawing their hands toward themselves, 
and afterward put them upon the face or breast after the 
manner of some very delicately-fashionable ones in the 
far West. A very different handling took place, however, 
with some others. It seems that a young Turk in 
some way insulted an aged one of his company; where- 
upon they commenced the first fight on board, which 
was had without the least noise between them, as if 
they were going through with a very painful panto- 
mime, consisting of a very active pulling of one another's 
hair and noses. It was quite distressing to see the 
younger one trying to tear out the gray hair from the 
aged man's head. They were separated, and did not 
seem inclined to commence again. 

To-day I have visited, on deck, the place where the 
slaves are cooking dinner for their masters. I under- 
stand that the sheik on board has sixty of these attend- 
ants in his suite. The French obtained some signal 
aid from him during the war between that nation and 
Algiers. He prefers the "deck-passage," else he would 
have been offered the first cabin, — so we are informed 
by the captain; for the steamer, we must remember, is 
French. But the cooking, — the cooks and the thing 
cooked ! The latter is a little round grain, composed 
in part of flour, and appears like dark tapioca. The 
cooks are black-faced Nubians, with long, dark, dirty 
dresses, which I should judge, from certain evidences, 
have not been removed for washing since a period 
of time " back to which memory runneth not." There 



536 



TURKISH DINNER. 



are holes in their noses where once they wore rings, 
enormous earrings, three and a half to four inches in 
diameter, in their ears, and a notion in their heads that 
it is a sin against Mohammed to put their hands or 
faces into water, and at the same time such greasy, 
dirty hands that scraping them would be a relief to 
their weight. These are the cooks; and all the truth in 
relation to them is not yet told. The cooking is done 
over the blacksmith's fire. In some iron pans, by means 
of wooden spoons, the cooks' fingers and hands, and an 
occasional tasting and eating and returning to the main 
kettle what they could not conveniently swallow, the 
work was completed. After these operations, the thing 
cooked was put by the cooks into a huge wooden bowl 
of the capacity of a half-bushel, which was carried aft; 
and then the sheik and five or six of his principal friends 
surrounded the bowl, each having a wooden spoon, with 
which he shovelled up a quantity, committing it to his 
throat, down which it slid with considerable velocity, 
due to the numerous greasings each particle had received 
during the process of cooking. After them a few of the 
attendants approached ; and the rest was soon devoured. 

After one or two deaths on board, some showers of 
rain, during which some of the company were piled up 
three deep under sails, and some pleasant hours and 
some very unpleasant, w r e saw in the east a few fleecy 
clouds nestling down low upon one distant spot on the 
sea. This was Malta, the ancient Melita. We were 
still on Biblical ground. On a former occasion we had 
left some very dear friends at this beautiful island. 



A MISTAKE CORRECTED. 537 

Intending to remain some time on the island, bidding 
our friends farewell, I entered the quarantine. Owing 
to the kindness of my intimate friend, C. L. Kehn, Esq., 
of Philadelphia, as well as to his admirable business 
knowledge and promptness, I was enabled to remain 
still longer in the Mediterranean, and especially at Malta. 

A little circumstance occurred on entering the 
harbor which is worthy of notice. A number of our 
friends were on deck. Malta appeared singularly beauti- 
ful in the bright sunshine, which enlivened its cream- 
colored stone buildings w T ith their little projecting 
second-story porticos and its stupendous and wonderful 
fortifications. While admiring the scene, we saw occa- 
sional spray rising suddenly from the surface of the 
water with the most perfect likeness to the spouting of 
the whale ; and after repeated assurances that we had 
seen whales we parted, — our friends leaving port for 
Marseilles. The following afternoon I saw that the 
balls fired from the batteries skipped upon the surface 
of the sea; and occasionally a shell fired from the 
mortar exploded in the air, leaving a little white 
cloud. Last evening the deception was complete, and 
several gentlemen, not of our company, left the harbor 
satisfied that they had seen whales here, though they 
never thought before that these fish were to be found in 
the Mediterranean. The whole is now explained. The 
apparent " spouting" was due to the balls falling at 
great distances in the water; and yet my friends sailed 
yesterday under the impression that they had seen 
" the whale." 

34* 



538 KINDNESS AT VALETTA. 

The kindness which I received in this sunny isle 
I can never forget; and the information gained from 
various sources here was invaluable. The library at 
Valetta is, in several respects, one of the finest in Eu- 
rope. I lectured at the University, visited the schools, 
which were in a flourishing state, and made many 
examinations throughout the island. Valetta, the chief 
town, in its climate and society, in its interesting associa- 
tions, its cleanliness and beauty, is one of the most in- 
viting spots upon this gem-island of the Mediterranean. 
Here we stayed a time to pursue some studies, and 
fortunately to form some friendships among some of the 
citizens and their intelligent, accomplished, and warm- 
hearted circles, the recollection of which will ever make 
my visit to Malta the sunniest spot in the memories of a 
whole life. And this is the Melita of the Acts, 1 where 
once "the barbarous people showed the apostle no 
little kindness 2 after his shipwreck." Valetta — the town 
of the Knights of St. J ohn — the town of carved palaces 
and beautiful residences — is inhabited principally by 
the British officers and their families and friends. Many 
visitors from Europe spend much time here, and some 
visit it for a winter retreat. That season is a time of 
considerable gayety and life. Lectures and concerts, 
parties and picnics and boating-excursions, make time 



1 The results of various examinations in reference to this place were 
published in the Christian Observer, of Philadelphia, Rev. Dr. Converse, 
editor, — to whom the author is indebted for many kind suggestions and 
encouragements during the prosecution of the present work. 

2 Acts xviii. 2. 



LAST HOURS AT MALTA. 



539 



pass very pleasantly, though the island appears so 
lonely and inaccessible to Europeans. 

When I came here the year before, I was a total 
stranger, without a letter of introduction or an ac- 
quaintance. I now leave it as I would if leaving a 
large portion of the dearest friends on earth behind me, 
and many whom I love and respect, socially, intellectu- 
ally, and as Christians, and whose kind regards I be- 
lieve I carry with me. Leaving Malta, we bade adieu to 
the last spot of scriptural interest which we had visited, 
and soon were on the Continent, and thence we left 
for England, with exceeding gratitude for health and 
success during many exposures, for a better understand- 
ing of the Scriptures, and for more liberal views, which 
should enable us to make allowance for the frailties and 
variances of habit and opinion to which all of the race, 
however scattered, are subject. 



APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX I. 

Nothing presents so impressively the influences ramifying from this 
Phoenician invention as the following table of the written alphabet. 

There are several claimants of the right of being considered the first 
spoken language, in reference to which claim there is much uncertainty. 
The annexed tabular history of the written alphabet seems best authenticated, 
and hence the clearest exhibition of the relations of written languages, so far 
as deduced from the Phoenician spoken by the ancient inhabitants of Phoe- 
nicia before the entrance of Joshua into the promised land. 

The arguments bearing upon the question as to the first spoken lan- 
guage are varied, and in some cases perplexing and unsatisfactory. Yet 
those urged by Bochart, Scaliger, Lipsius, and Vossius, and adopted by 
many others, are perhaps the most philosophical, and place the Hebrew at 
the head as the parent language and the first spoken. The Syrians claim 
a right to be heard on behalf of their own tongue, (see Quatremere's 
Essay, Journal Asiatique, Mars, 1835,) and the Abyssinian comes in for a 
share of attention. (Advert, to the Ed. Princip. of the N. Test., Rome, 
1548.) The Chinese has put in its claim, (Webb's Antiq. of China, Lon- 
don, 1678,) and even the obscure Biscayan has had a representative of its 
pretensions in Don Thos. de Sorregnieta as the " mother-tongue of all 
human dialects,' 7 (Appologia de la Langue Bascongada, Madrid, 1804;) 
and Gropius Becanus is noticed as having been in the field long since 
advocating the claims of the Low Dutch of his Vaderland, as the language 
spoken by Adam and Eve in Paradise. (Origines Antwerpiange, Antwerp, 
1569.) See authorities referred to in Cosmophonog., Gouraud, N. Y., Red- 
field, 1850. 

Runic, in the table, is the title of those letters in which the Icelandic 
was originally written. The materials for writing were in the first ages, in 
this part of the world, only wood or stone; and the convenience of the 
writer required that the strokes should as it were plough up the material 
written upon. Hence the term Runic, which signifies a furrow in the Ice- 
landic tongue, — a language called so because most pure in Iceland, although 
the mother of the modern Swedish and Danish tongues. (RYN Sulcus. 
Vid. Olaij Wormij Literat. Runica, 1636, 4to, pp. 2, 3. Also five pieces 
Runic poetry, London, 1762, Preface.) 

541 



542 



APPENDIX. 



5 
H 
i— i 

w 

H 
O 

o 

H 

w 



• 03 

- * l» ■ 



il 

Ph § 

o 



IS 



u 

o . 

* i 
w I 



r 



H3 

a 

O -7 1 
£ |° 
f- a 

^° S 

'S.s 
SI 



a* 



1 



a 

I 53 



a a 

- a <x> 

£ § 
1° 



-A 



pa 



W5 



o 
Q 



n 



32 



d I ^ 



a 

o 



o 

— ' 

o 

3 



- cu 
P- 

O 



r S 

O 



c3 

r-O 

6 



O 12 

— bJD 



APPENDIX. 



543 



APPENDIX II.— (Referring to p. 166.) 

The inscription upon the coin found at Sidon (of which an engraving has 
been given on a previous page) is characteristic of that simplicity which 
was adopted in earlier times. Indeed, this appears to be the simplest ex- 
pression, the whole title being AAEHANAP0T-BA2IAES22, of Alexander the 
king. In later times most extravagant titles were inscribed ; as follows, 
"King of kings;" 6E0T, "Divine," or "Godlike King;" on the coins of 
Cleopatra, GEA'NEOTEPA, " The New Goddess." On a coin of Severus, the 
Greeks, in a spirit of servile flattery, inscribed, GCOYHPOY'BAGIAGTON- 
TOC'O KOCMOC-GTTTXGI, "money of the Saviour-King: the world is 
fortunate." ATTOKPATS2P, "Absolute Sovereign," on coins of Triphon, the 
Syrian monarch, (reigned from 142 b.c to 138 B.C., ) and on those of the Par- 
thian king Arsaces IX. KAAAINIK02, (Akerman, Num. Man.,) the title 
of Hercules, signifying " Conqueror," on coins of Demetrius III. $IAO- 
ITATHP (opog,) — (Mionnet gives for Dem. III., also Greek and Rom. Med. 
vol. viii. p. 75, Paris, 1837.)— Antiochus XII., XIII., and others. 0EO2, 0EA, 
"God," by the Ptolemies and others; the latter by Cleopatra on the coins 
of Mark Antony, (See Mionnet Dis. Med. v. 6, Paris, 1612.) AIKAI02, 
"Just," common on the coins of Parthian kings. AI0NY202, " Bacchus," 
adopted by Antiochus VI. and XII. of Syria; and such as illustrious, pious, 
having paternal affection : these are Syrian. Lover of Ccesar ($IAO- 
KAI2AP) occurs on a coin of Agrippa, the King of Judgea, and Lover of 
Claudius, on one of Herod, King of Chalcedon ; Lover of his mother, Deme- 
trius III. of Syria. Several have Lover of his father. 2£2THP (Saviour) 
occurs on several, Ptolemy I. and VIII. included. But the most interesting 
inscription to a Biblical reader is the title EYEPrETHS, benefactor, found 
on several coins stamped before Christ, 1 and evidently existing in his time, 
showing that some great men were styled benefactors, or, as it is in Luke 
xxii. 25, Kai oi eSovata^ovreg avruv, ETEPrETAI Kalovvrai, to which title our 
Saviour may have alluded. The stampi ng of small lumps or masses of metal 
seems to have been at first only sealing them to give authority to the coin, 
as a seal would to an agreement, and it was done at first only on one side. 2 
The genitive form of the title with the image of the reigning king, or in 
Palestine of the Caesar at Rome, would signify that it was the money 
of him whose image was thereon. It was his image; he reigned; and 
tribute was to be paid to him who reigned. 3 To know, then, the one to 
whom tribute was to be paid, the image of the coin need only to be con- 
sulted. Hence the appositeness of the Saviour's request, "Show me a 
penny," (Luke xx. 24; Matt. xxii. 19-22.) 

The chalcus was the earliest Greek copper coin, perhaps struck in the 



1 Mithridates V. of Pontus, Alexander I., Ptolemy III., and others mentioned by Akerman, p. 18, 
and Mionnet, Med. of Greek and Rom., Paris, 1837, vol. viii. p. 76, Dem. III. 

2 "An Inquiry into the Motive of the Ancient Coins," &c , by F. Burgon, Esq., Numis. Journal, 
vol. i. 3 Akerman, p. 33. 



544 



APPENDIX. 



time of the Peloponnesian War, and must have been very small, as De- 
mosthenes uses the phrase "not worth a chalcus;" yet, in the after- 
degeneracy of the country, the chalcus was divided and subdivided, small 
as it was, until it was reduced to a coin called len-a, lepta, now in use, 
and also at the time of the Saviour, and referred to under that name in 
Mark xii. 42, Luke xxi. 2, xii. 59. The mite of the widow must have been 
very insignificant, when ten times its value in the time of Demosthenes 
was contemptuous. 

But still further: the value of the terms on these coins, together with 
a knowledge of the geography of Palestine, may aid us in an understand- 
ing of some of the terms used in the Greek Testament. On the coins of 
Heliopolis (Baalbec) occurs the phrase IIP02 AIBAN02, where rrpog signifies 
under Mount Libanus, but in a sense qualified by our geographical 
knowledge, thus, Caesarea T'lIP'APrAIflN, (rcov Trpog Apyaiov,) under Mount 
Argceus, or probably under the tops of Argasus. Again, we have rrpog 
Oalaacrj, or BaXkacoav, on coins of Prusias in Bithynia and Laodicea in Syria. 

The numerals on Greek coins are — 



INTEGERS. 



A 


B 


r 


A E S* 


Z 


H 


e. 


1 


2 


3 


4 5 6 

CENTENARII. 


7 


8 


9. 


I 


K 


A 


M N S 





n 


% 


10 


20 


30 


40 50 60 

DECADES. 


70 


80 


90. 


p 


2 


T 


Y $ X 


i" 


Q 


> 


100 


200 


300 


400 500 600 


700 


800 


900. 



Each character stands for its full value in composition; thus, AKX signifies 
624, and may be read either way, as it will be the same. The various 
eras commence thus: — Era of Pontus and the Bosphorus, with the year of 
Borne 457, or 296 B.C. The Egyptian era commences with the reign of 
Ptolemy I. The Seleucidan dates 312 b.c. The era of Seleucus (still in 
use among the Eastern Christians) appears as late as the year 508, (of 
Christ 196,) on the medals of the Greek cities within the Parthian Empire. 
(See Moyle's Works, vol. i. p. 273, &c, and Freret, Mem. de Y Academie, 
tome xix. vol. i. p. 81, note.) The Augustinian or Actian era dates 31 B.C. 
The Pompeian era dates 63 b.c. The Caesarean era dates 47 or 48 b.c. 
Sometimes the date is represented thus, ET0Y2 AZ, (year 37,) contracted 
more frequently ET or ETO. On coins of Alexandria we find AYKABAX- 
T02 instead of erovg, being an actual term for "year" among the Greeks, as 
noticed by Macrobius, (Saturnalia, lib. i. cap. 17, p. 14 of Akerman.) But we 
are not subjected to the necessity of confounding A the initial of the year 
and A the numeral decade, from the fact that the old L of the Greeks is 
used, being a more ancient form of Lambda. Numerous coins bear £ ; i.e. 
AvKafSavrog A, (year one.) 

As an illustration of the value put upon the fountains of Damascus, it 
may be said that, while the Greek for fountains (IIHrAI) is of rare occur- 



APPENDIX. 



545 



rence on any medal or coin, it is nevertheless found on the coins of Damas- 
cus, and XPYCOPOAC, dirysorrhoas, "golden stream," the title on the coin 
of the same place, referring to the river Barada. On the coins of Palestine 
we have the following: — On the coins of Neapolis, (Nabulus,) in Samaria, 
we find EIIICHM02, renowned; Colonia Ptolemais occurs on the coins of 
Ace or Akka, (Acre,) (Akerman, p. 37;) iElia Capitolinis, abbreviated AIA. 
Scythopolis in Samaria, anciently Nysa, NYCAI£uJN. A vast number 
were struck by the Roman colonies; and the ordinary types are a priest 
guiding two oxen yoked to a plough, that being the usual mode of marking 
out a town; whence the origin of ported, from the fact that the plough was 
carried (porto) over the space left for the gate or porta. (Eckhel, Doct. 
Xum. Yet., vol. iv. p. 489.) We have BH. for Berytus; A2K. for Ascelon: 
IOT. and IOTA for Julia or Julius; ITT., Ptolemais ; NEOIL, Neapolis. On 
Tvrian coins the monogram \^ occurs, for TYP. 

While speaking of coins, I may be permitted to acid some information in 
reference to the Turkish coins, fur which I am much indebted — as I am 
for some communications on the subject of the value of other early coins — 
to Messrs. Dubois and Eckfelt, of the United States Mint. The Turkish 
monetary system is exceedingly uncertain. In 1764 (reign of Mustapha 
III.) the piastre was worth sixty cents ; in the next reign, (from 1774 to 
1789,) forty cents ; in 1807 it was reduced to twenty-six, in the next year 
to eight, in 1827 to six, and in 1832 to three, intrinsically, though in com- 
merce a fraction over five cents to the piastre. In the present reign it is 
3.8 in the silver coin and 4.4 in the gold. In actual money it is divided 
into forty paras of three akeheh or aspers each. The silver coin so called 
is but forty per cent, silver, only for pieces of one and a half piastres 
and upward. The smallest coin is the para, about the size and thickness 
of a little-finger-nail, and of two grains' weight, of only .077 of silver, or 
about seven parts out of a hundred of silver. Not less than ten paras are 
required to make one cent in trade; and yet something may be bought with 
them, but generally only among the natives. Mr. Dubois rates the real 
value of the para at one-thirtieth of a cent. (See Manual of Coins and 
Bullion, United States Mint, 4to.) 

It is not necessary to be an adept in Arabic to understand the inscrip- 
tion of Turkish coins, almost the only character used being Arabic variously 
modified. But all who read Arabic and Persian may not be able to decipher 
Arabic on the coins, from the liberty taken in writing it. For example, on 
all the coins of Turkey and its dependencies (Morocco excepted) there is on 
one side (noticed by all Oriental travellers) a dash, as if it were a pro- 
longation of the lower part of a figure 2 ; thus, — 



where the left-hand figure is the coin-dash, and the right-hand figure the 
Arabic word, with which liberty has been taken in making the former. The 
simple meaning of this dashing figure is "at," — struck "at" or " in" Con- 
stantinople or Egypt, as the case may be. This liberty is more apparent 

35 



546 



APPENDIX. 



in the writing of the names as seen below, where the Arabic on the right 
is the correct alphabet-form, and on the left the coin-form : — 

Kostantiniyeh, (J/diis*^ Jj| i^hjhu^3 Constantinople. 



J JJu J" J^*%sj\ Islamboul. 



Misr, Q^S^d^ Egypt, 

The word Islamboul is evidently a corruption of Stamboul, or rather 
an intentional pun by the Mohammedans on the word Stamboul, forming 
it into Islamboul, which signifies "full of faith/' — namely, Mohammedan- 
ism. The coins of the present Sultan, however, have the first form, namely, 
" Constantinople." Those from Egypt — i.e. Misr, which is evidently a con- 
traction of Mizraim, the son of Ham — are marked as in the third example. 
Over the dash are the figures of the years of the Sultan in whose reign the 
coin was struck, in the usual Turkish numerals, thus formed: — 

/ 2 3 4 S 6 7 8 9 

Thus, many of the coins used at present were struck at Constantinople in 
the year of the Sultan 28, which being above, and the year Anno Hejirse 
1223 below, the dash, the inscription will appear thus: — 

WW 

On others the dates are year 1, date 1255; thus: — 

woo 

Only the date of the ascension of the Sultan is given in Anno Hejirae, al- 
though his reign might have lasted thirty-one years, as in the case of Mah- 
moud II., who ascended 1808. In the Morocco coins the dates are in Eng- 
lish figures. 

APPENDIX III. 



The Macedonian and Asi- 
atic Solar Year. 
1. Dius 


The Syro-Macedonian 
Solar Year. 


Jewish Months. 


Days. 














Tebeth 


Nov 30 














Adar. and Veadar in Leap-Year.... 


















March... 30 


















10. Lous 








11. Gorpia&us 




Klul 








Tisri _J! 


Ano- sn 


Five intercalary days ar 


3 added, making 365 ; £ 


360 

nd in the fourth year six are added, making 366 



AFPENDIX. 



547 



Civil Jewish Tear. Moslem Year of Twelve Lunar Months. 

1. Abib, or Nisan Moharram. 

2. Iyar Safar. 

3. Sivan Kabeea-el-Owwal. 

4. Tamuz Rabeea-et-Tanee. 

5. Ab Gumad-el-Owwal, or Gumada-l-Oola. 

6. Elul Gumad-et-Tanee, or Gumada-t-Taniyeh. 

7. Tisri Regeb. 

8. Marchesvan Shaaban. 

9. Cisleu Ramadan. 

10. Tebeth Skowwal. 

11. Shebat Zu-l-Kaadeh, or El-Kaadeh. 

12. Adar and Yeadar Zu-l-Heggeh, or El-Heggeh. 1 

A simple formula may be given to reduce the Mohammedau year to our 
own, or Anno Hejirag to Anno Domini, thus: — The date of Mohammed's 
flight is usually supposed to be July 16, a.d. 622. If, therefore, the 
six hundred and twenty-one years passed be subtracted from any given 
year of our calendar or Anno Domini, it will leave the date of the Hejira 
in solar years, which, being reduced to lunar years, will give the Turkish 
year. On the contrary, if a given year of the Hejira or Turkish calendar 
be reduced to solar years and six hundred and twenty-one years be added, 
the sum will be Anno Domini. 

Note that five hundred and twenty -one solar years are equal to five hun- 
dred and thirty-seven lunar or Turkish years. 

Examples. — What is the year 1858 a.d. in the calendar of the Hejira? 
From 1858 

Subtract 621 years a.d. to the time of the Hejira. 

1237 == Hejira in solar years, which bear the same relation to 
lunar years as 521 do to 537, as stated above. 

S.Y. L.Y. S.Y. A.H. 

Hence, 521 : 537 : : 1237 : 1274, the year of the Hejira. 
Again, What is 1274 a.h. expressed in years a.d.? 
537 : 521 : : 1274 : 1858 a.d. 

APPENDIX IV. 

The acquaintance which the ancients had with the nature, the uses, and 
the methods of working the melals is remarkable. 2 The author has been 
interested in the question of the antiquity of brass in elucidation of 
Deut. viii. 9, Job xxviii. 2. Brass, the compound of zinc and copper, 



!In Arabic, El-Hijrah, or, as pronounced by most of the Egyptians, El-Higreh, more correctly 
translated " the emigration." The first day of the era of Hejira is supposed to be Friday, 16th 
of July, 622. (See Lane's Mod. Egyptians, vol. i. p. 330.) 

2 As proof, I have referred (p. 180) to passages in Homer in reference to Sidon. We may add that 
Pliny says (bk. xxxiii. 19) that Agrippina, wife of Claudius, sat next to him at a public show, dressed 
in a robe of gold woven without any other material. Dion Cassius testifies to the same garment 
and show, (x;Aafiu<5i oiaxpvaio) lkogiiuto.) Sidonius Apollinaris speaks of the mode of weaving 
the gold, (Carm. xxii. v. 199.) Lampridius speaks of a tunic of the same material -worn by 
Heliogabalus, (Aldi. edit, folio 112.) There was a brass, however, superior in value to gold, 
(Pliny, xxxiv. i.) The ancients knew that it was less liable to oxidization than any other metals, 
as is seen in Cicero, (De Leg. ii. 24,) where we find that it was used in setting artificial teeth, 
three hundred years before the Christian era. And the law permitted the gold thus used to be 
buried with the dead. (See instances from Mexico, Siberia, &c, Anc. Mineralogy, &c, N. E. Moore, 
LL.D., G. & C. Carvill & Co., New York, 1834.) 



548 



APPENDIX. 



was evidently used among the ancients ; and much might be said on this 
interesting point. A qualitative analysis by the author proved to him the 
existence of the metal zinc in very ancient coins ; and Dr. Genth by the 
following analysis has corroborated it: — 

Coin of Trajan. per cent. Coin of Hadrian. per cent. 

Silver '. 0.21 0.30 

Copper 88.58 86.92 

Tin 1.80 0.72 

Lead 2.28 1.10 

Zinc 7.56 10.97 

Iron 0.29 0.18 

Arsenic and Antimony none traces 

100.82 100.19 
Specific gravity 8.745 8.778 

Now, as zinc is not mentioned as a metal before Paracelsus and Albertus 
Magnus, in the twelfth century, and, as all agree, was till then unknown, 
the stony silicate of zinc, or earthy carbonate, must have been used. This 
agrees with Aristotle's " certain earth" of " Mossy noecians," (Arist. Op. v. 
i. p. 1155, b,) and Pliny's " cadmia," or calamine-stone, out of which they 
tell us brass was made. Hence we may infer that Job had reference to the 
same process, — "brass is molten out of stone," (xxviii. 1,) — and that it is 
neither figurative nor a mistranslation, but actual fact and very ap- 
propriate. 

APPENDIX V. 

Until the destruction of Jerusalem, all that was traditional had to be 
delivered orally, the committing of any part to writing being contrary to law. 
But after the destruction, the Jews were compelled to commit to writing their 
traditions, because they were now being scattered and there was liability 
to neglect. Hence the Talmud. Of the two famous schools of theology, — 
one at Babylon, the other at Jerusalem, — the former was the source of that 
collection of traditions, commentary, &c. called the Babylonish Talmud; 
the latter of the Jerusalem Talmud, which, though older, is not considered 
so authoritative. Whenever the Talmud is quoted, the allusion is made to 
the Babylonish, the other being designated. Babbis are appointed after 
examination and recommendation by one who was previously a Babbi, the 
candidate obtaining the votes of the congregation where he dwells as the 
sanctioning act, upon which he receives the "crown of the law." But the 
latter point is one of difference at the present day. It is necessary, how- 
ever, that the candidate should be accredited by a known and acknowledged 
Babbi. Thus the office partakes of the character of succession. There are 
some difficulties as to the age of the Mishna. It most probably was written 
a.d. 190, but not published till some years before a.d. 548, when Justinian 
interdicted its use in the synagogues. (Kennicott's State of Heb. Text, vol. 
ii. p. 443.) The Gemara of Babylon was three hundred and sixteen years 
after the Mishna and eighty-three before that of Jerusalem. (Wolfius, Bib- 
lioth. Heb., p. 28.) 

APPENDIX VI. 

The following analysis, never before made, may be interesting to the 
reader and the chemist, and a comparison may be made with the analyses 



APPENDIX. 



549 



of other springs in Official Report of the Dead Sea Expedition. It is the 
analysis of the bitter water from the spring Mara. Its specific gravity at 
30° Cels. is 1.00845. It contains in one thousand parts : — 



Sulphate of Lime 1.545 

Sulphate of Magnesia 1.660 

Sulphate of Soda 0.919 

Sulphate of Potash 0.281 

Chloride of Sodium 3.940 

Bituminous Matter ) 

Silicic Acid v traces 

Carbonic Acid J 

8.345 



APPENDIX VII.— (To note on p. 46.) 
The "book of Sabeans, or Zabii, relates of Thammuz, a certain idolatrous 
prophet, that, having called upon the king to worship the seven planets 
and the twelve signs of the Zodiac, he was ignoniiniously put to death by the 
king. On the same night on which he was slain, a great gathering of all 
the images from the ends of the earth was made to the palace where the 
great golden image of the sun was suspended ; whereupon this image of 
the sun related what had happened to Thammuz, weeping and mourning 
in their midst all the time. Then commenced likewise a weeping and 
mourning among all the images till daylight, when they all flew away 
and returned to their respective temples in the most distant regions of the 
earth. Such was the origin of the custom of weeping for Thammuz on the 
first day of the month of Thammuz, — i.e. June. (Maimonides, Reas, of the 
Law of Moses, edited by Townley, London, 1827, p. 164.) 

APPENDIX VIII. 
For the following list of native drugs, with their therapeutical uses by the 
natives, the author is indebted to Dr. G. M. Wortabet, of Beirut: — 

Althea — Two species of it; flowers chiefly used as a demulcent in pulmonary affections. 
Acorns — The most powerful astringent in chronic diarrhoea. Euphorbia. Conium. Hyoscyamus. 
Castor Oil. Scilla Maritima. Hyssop (officinalis)— In catarrhal affections. Colocynth — The 
pulp of the fruit used as a purgative. Elaterium — The pulp of the fruit used as a purgative. Sar- 
sapap.illa — An inferior species used in lues. Malva — The leaves in discutient poultices; the 
infusion in emollient injections and for fomentations. Scammony — Exsiccated juice of root in 
Aleppo and Safed. Pomegranate (many species of it) — Vermifuge. Galls (found in mts.) Sam- 
eucus — The flowers and berries; sudorific. Tormentilla — Lebanon; mucilaginous and in arts. 
Species of Rhus — Astringent. Myrtle — Oil from leaves and berries ; carminative. Wormwood — 
Carminative. Violets — The flower in infusion ; diaphoretic ; popular remedy in pedalavia for 
catarrh. Quince-Seed — Demulcent; the best ptisan in fevers (Syrian); infusion. Centaury — 
Tonic; infusion and decoction. Castoreum (Castor) — The testicle of an animal called "water- 
dog," as large as a cat; carminative and antispasmodic; used by the natives chiefly in colic of 
children. Rosemary — Oil and infusion; is also used extensively for external use in dropsical affec- 
tions; affusions and enema. Cantharides — By this name they call a kind of fly as large as a 
beetle ; but it does not vesicate so kindly as the officinal species. Parsley (Arabic, buckdunus) — 
The leaves externally over pubis in retention of urine ; the seed internally in nephritic diseases : it 
is much esteemed by natives. A species of Poppy (shakskkik) — The flower in infusion and syrup 
in pulmonary affections. Borago (officinalis) — The infusion used and esteemed much as demulcent 
and diaphoretic in catarrh and rheumatism. Bezoar— Lapidary concretions taken from animals. 
A small quantity is scraped and administered in highly critical cases, with the idea that its use is 
attended by a decided change for better or for worse. Seeds of Cucumbers, Melons, and Squashes 
— The virtue is extracted by rubbing them in water ; refrigerant and diuretic ; used in the febrile 
state and in chronic affections. 



liJliJiSiliJiliJl 



<S8a3»g3S3Sa8«*» , §-g-§S8ag»8a8Sg88*g»88 



s niimmuiiimimmMiM 



a CO H COIN CO COCOCO CO CO (DON ooco o 



I 1} . J 4 - 



< S8"8ga w S^S8SSt:B88§§S8SS§88S8||«'§»g'-g 



CCOCO «« BBt . a «. OOOCOCO C^fE- ^ ^COO^OCOO 



! 

1 2 1 



THE 

GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX, 

PEEPAEEB TO ACCOMPANY THE MAP OF PALESTINE, 

BY 

REV. H. S. OSBORN, 

AND CONTAINING 

THE NAME OF EVERY PLACE AND NATION MENTIONED IN THE 
OLD AND NEW TESTAMENTS; 

WITH REFERENCES TO ALL THE PASSAGES OF SCRIPTURE "WHERE THEY OCCUR; 
INCLUDING THE MODERN NAMES OF MANY, WITH THE PROBABLE 
LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE OF ALL. 



Where double latitudes and longitudes are given, the limits of the place are indi- 
cated. Places in Palestine or the immediate vicinity are in capitals, and, excepting 
where doubtful, the name of the tribes to which they belong follows the place recorded : 
thus: J. for Judah; S.Simeon; B.Benjamin; B.Dan; E. Ephraim; M. Manasseh 
west of Jordan; M-. Manasseh east of Jordan; I. Issachar; Z. Zebulon ; A. Ashur: 
N. Naphtali ; G. Gad; E. Eeuben; L. Levitical City. Uncertainty is expressed thus 
(?) greater doubt ? ? 

N.B. — The latitude and longitude of places found on the map are correctly given so 
far as the latest measurements and observations will allow. All others are only pro- 
bable positions according to the best authorities. 



Abana and Amana, River (Chrysorrhoas), Wady Burdda 
2 Kings v. 12; Songs of Sol. iv. 8 

Abarim, Mountains of, R. Numb, xxvii. 12; xxxiii. 47 
48; Deut. xxxii. 49 

Abdon, L.A. Josh. xxi. 30; 1 Chron. vi. 74 

Abel, also Abel-Beth-Maachah, or Abel of Beth-Maachah, 
AMI? N. 1 Sam. vi. 18; 2 Sam. xx. 14, 15, 18; 1 Kings 
xv. 20; 2 Kings xv. 29 

Abel-Maim, AMI ? N. 2 Chron. xvi. 4 

Abel-Meholah, I. Judges vii. 22; 1 Kings iv. 12; xix. 16. 

Abel-Mizraim, B. Gen. 1. 11 

Abel-Shittim, R. Numb, xxxiii. 49 

Abez, Josh. xix. 20 

Abilene, Suk Burdda, Luke iii. 1 

Absalom's Place, B. Tomb of Absalom, 2 Sam. xviii. 18... 

Accad (Sitace?), Sheriatel-Beidha ? Gen. x. 10 

Accho (Ptolemais), 'AJcka, or Acre, Judges i. 31* 

Aceldama, Aceldama, J. Acts i. 19 



N. 


Lat. 


E. 


Long. 


3* 


3 35 / 


36 


°i5 / 


3 1 


28 






3 1 


55 


35 


40 


33 


*5 


35 


20 


33 


4i 


36 


09 


3 3 


46 


36 


09 


3 2 


*5 


35 


28 


3 1 


48 


35 


29 


3 1 


5 2 


35 


40 


35 


39 


35 


28 


33 


42 


36 


8 


3 1 


47 


35 


19 


33 


3° 


44 


l S 


3 2 


55 


35 


3 


3 1 


46 


35 


l 9 



* Bastion near Marina Gate, Lat. 32° 55' 00", Long. 35° 03' 38". 

551 



552 



A GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX. 



Achaia (id.), Greece, Acts xviii. 12, 27; xix. 21; Rom. xv. 

26: xvi. 5: 1 Cor. xvi. 15; 2 Cor. i. 1; ix. 2; xi. 10; 

1 Thess. i. 7, 8 

Achmetha (Ecbatana), Hamadan, Ezravi. 2 | 

Achor, Valley of, Josh. vii. 24, 26; xv. 7; Isaiah lxv. 10: j 

Hosea ii. 15 

Achsiiaph, Josh. xi. 1; xii. 20; xix. 25 

Achzib (Ecdippa), Ez-Zib, Josh. xv. 44; xix. 29; Judges i. 

31; Micah i. 14 j 

Acrabbim. See Maaleh-Acrabbim, (ascent of) Acrabbim, ' 

Josh. xv. 3. 

Adadau, J. Josh. xv. 22 

Adam, Josh. iii. 16 j 

Adam ah, N. Josh. xix. 36 ! 

Adami, N. Josh. xix. 33 :.. j 

Adar, J. Josh. xv. 3 

Adithaim, Josh. xv. 36 

Admah, Gen. x. 19; xiv. 2, 8; Deut. xxix. 23; Hosea 

xi.8 

Adoraim (Adora), Dura, 2 Chron. xi. 9 

Adramyttium (id.), Adramyti, Acts xxvii. 2 

Adria, Mediterranean Sea, Acts xxvii. 27 

Adullam. J. Josh. xii. 15 ; xv. 35; 1 Sam. xxii. 1 ; 2 Sam. 
xxiii. 13; 1 Chron. xi. 15; 2 Chron. xi. 7 ; Neh. xi. 30: 

Micah i. 15 

Adummim, Josh. xv. 7; xviii. 17 

.ZEnon, John iii. 23. Wady Faraht East of Jerusalem; also 

Ahava (Aginis), Hawdz, Ezra viii. 15, 21, 31 

Ahlab, Judges i. 31 



N. Lat. E.Long. 



Ai, or Hai, B. Gen. xii. 8 ; xiii. 3 ; Josh. 



3,4, 



1, 1, 2, 3, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23 
24, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29; ix. 3; x. 1, 1, 2; xii. 9; Ezra ii 

28; Neh. vii. 32; Jer. xlix. 3 

Ai of Amnion, same as Ai of B. 

Aiath, B. Isaiah x. 28, same as Ai of B 

Aija, B. Neh. xi. 31, same as Ai of B 

Aijalon, or Ajalon, L.D. J r dlo, Josh. x. 12; xix. 42; xxi 
24; Judges i. 35; xii. 12; 1 Sam. xiv. 31; 1 Chron.vi. 69 
viii. 13; 2 Chron. xi. 10; xxviii. 18 

Ain (Banius?), source of Jordan? N. Numb, xxxiv. 11 

Ain, El-Ghuwein,?? L.S. Josh. xv. 32; xix. 7: xxi. 16; 1 j 
Chron. iv. 32* j 

Akrabbim, J. Numb, xxxiv. 4; Judges i. 36 

Alammelech A., Josh. xix. 26 

Alemeth, L.B. 1 Chron. vi. 60 j 

Alexandria (id.), id., Acts xviii. 24; xxvii. 6; xxviii. 11. f.. 

Allon, Josh. xix. 33 j 

Allon-Bachuth, Gen. xxxv. 8 ! 

Almon, L.B. Josh. xxi. 18 J 

Almon-Diblathaim, Numb, xxxiii. 46, 47 I 

Aloth. See Bealoth. 

Alush, Numb, xxxiii. 13, 14 



38 o' 


2 2 C 


30' 


34 


5 l 


48 


3° 


3 1 


5° 


j J 


26 


3 2 




35 


10 


33 


2 


.35 


5 


3> 


16 


35 


6 


3 1 


5 1 


35 


36 


33 


1 z 


35 


34 


33 


4 


35 


37 


3° 


47 


34 


44 


3 1 


37 


34 


5 1 


3 1 


43 


35 


35 


3 1 




35 


9 


39 








36 


3° 


n 


30 


3 1 


38 




2 


3 1 


47 


11 


2 3 


3 2 


'5 


35 


2 1 


3 1 


2 


48 50 


33 


18 


35 


2 2 


3 1 


55 


35 


19 


3 1 


55 


35 




3 1 


55 


35 


l 9 


3 1 


5° 


35 


6 


33 


16 


35 


43 


3 1 


26 


35 


10 


3 1 


3 


35 


30 


3 2 


56 


35 


1 


3 1 


18 


35 


2 4 


3 1 


1 


29 


53 


33 


1 


35 


35 


3 1 


56 


35 


18 


3 1 


48 


35 


2 4 


3 1 


42 


35 


5° 


28 


5° 


33 


2 5 



* This is the probable Lat. and Long, of the place. See Ritter, Erdkunde. though some think that 
of the present Arab village Ghuwein. 
f South side of harbor, west of a redoubt, Lat. 31° 10' 34", Long. 29° 53' 05". 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



553 



Amad, Josh. xix. 26 

Amalekite, Gen. xiv. 7; Numb. xiv. 25, 43, 45 ; Judges x 
12; xii. 15; 1 Sam. xv. 6, 7, 8, 15: xxvii. 8; xxx 
1, 13; 2 Sam.i. 8, 13 

Amam, J. Josh. xv. 2G 

Amana, J. See Abana (River). 

Ammah, 2 Sam. ii. 24 

Ammah. See Metheg- Ammah. 

Ammonite, Deut. ii. 20; xxiii. 3; 1 Sam. xi. 1, 2; 2 Sam. 

xxiii. 37; 1 Kings xi. 1, 5; xiv. 21; 1 Chron. xi. 39; 

2 Chron. xii. 13; xx. 1; xxiv. 26; xxvi. 8; Ezra ix. 1; 

Neh. ii. 10, 19; iv. 3, 7; xiii. 1 

Amorite, Gen. x. 16; xiv. 7, 13; xv. 16, 21; xlviii. 22; 

Exod. iii. 8, 17; xiii. 5; xxiii. 23 ; xxxiii. 2; xxxiv. 11; 

Numb. xiii. 29; xxi. 13, 13, 21, 25, 26, 29, 31, 32, 34; 

xxii. 2; xxxii. 33, 39; Deut, i. 4, 7, 19, 20, 27, 44; ii. 

24; iii. 2, 8, 9; iv. 46, 47; vii. 1; xx. 17; xxxi. 4; 

Josh. ii. 10; iii. 10: v. 1; vii. 7; ix. 1, 10; x. 5, 6, 12; 

xi. 3; xii. 2, 8; xiii. 4, 10, 21; xxiv. 8, 11, 12, 15, 18; 

Judges i. 34, 35, 36 ; iii. 5 ; vi. 10 ; x. 8, 11 ; xi. 19, 21, 

22, 23; 1 Sam. vii. 14; 2 Sam. xxi. 2; 1 Kings iv. 19; 

ix. 20; xxi. 26; 2 Kings xxi. 11; 1 Chron. i. 14; 

2 Chron. viii. 7; Ezra ix, 1; Neh. ix. 8; Psalm cxxxv. 

11; cxxxvi. 19; Ezek. xvi. 3, 45; Amos ii. 9, 10 

Amphipolis, Emboli, Acts xvii. 1 

Anab, J. Anab, Josh. xi. 21; xv. 50 , 

Anaharath, I. Josh. xix. 19 

Ananiah, B. Neh. xi. 32 

Anathoth, L.B. Andta, Josh. xxi. 18 ; 1 Kings ii. 26 ; 1 Chron. 

vi. 60; Ezra ii. 23; Neh. vii. 27; xi. 32; Isaiah x. 30; 

Jer. i. 1; xi. 21, 23; xxix. 27; xxxii. 7, 8, 9 

Anem, or En-Gannim, I.L. Jeiiin, 1 Chron. vi. 73 

Aner, M-. Kefr, Kanrdr, 1 Chron. vi. 70 

Anim, J. Josh. xv. 50. EJ-Ghuwein ? 

Antioch (Antiochia), Antakia, Acts vi. 5; xi. 19, 20, 22. 26, 

26, 27; xiii. 1, 14; xiv. 19, 21, 26; xv. 22, 23, 30, 35 ; 

xviii. 22; Gal. ii. 11; 2 Tim. iii. 11 



Antipatris, E. Kefr Saba, Acts xxiii. 31 

Aphek, Josh. xii. 18; 1 Sam. iv. 1 ; xxix. 1; more probably 

in plain of Jezreel 

Aphek, A. (Apheca), Afka, Josh. xiii. 4; xix. 30 

Aphek, 1 Kings xx. 26, 30 ; 2 Kings xiii. 17 

Aphekah, or Aphek, J. Josh. xv. 53 

Aphik, A. (Apheca), Afka, Judges i. 31 

Aphrah, B. or Ophrah, B. Micah i. 10. El Taiyibeht 

Apollonia, Acts xvii. 1 

Appii Forum, Acts xxviii. 15 

Ar, or Rabbath-Moab (Areopolis), Eabba, Numb. xxi. 15, 

28; Deut. ii. 9, 18, 29; Isaiah xv. 1 

Arab. Josh. xv. 52 

Arabah. See Beth-Arabah ? 

Arabia, id., 2 Chron. ix. 14 ; Isaiah xxi. 13, 13 ; Jer. xxv. 24 ; 

Ezek. xxvii. 21 : Gal. i. 17 ; iv. 25... 

Arad, J. Tel'Ardd, Numb. xxi. 1 ; xxxiii. 40 ; Josh. xii. 14 ; 

Judges i. 16 

Aram (Syria), id., Numb, xxiii. 7 ; 1 Chron. ii. 23 

35* 



N. I.at. 

r-°sr 

28 50 

30 30 

3 1 l 5 
3 1 53 



31 30 
40 50 
31 25 
3 2 34 
3 1 53 



3 1 49 

32 28 
32 29 
31 22 



36 ,1 
32 12 

31 40 



3 1 57 

40 30 

41 29 



31 19 
3 1 2 5 



30 o 

31 19 

34 o 



E. Long. 

35°'°' 

3 3 5° 

34 20 

35 6 
35 l 7 



35 20 

23 5 1 

35 10 

35 11 

35 n 



35 l 5 

35 20 

35 2 

35 8 



36 8 

34 57 

35 5 
35 5 2 
35 4& 
35 5 
35 52 
35 22 
23 3 1 
'3 2 

35 47 
35 18 



37 

35 10 

78 o 



554 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Aram. See Beth-Aram. 
Aram. See Padan-Aram. 

Araro-Naharaim.* See Mesopotamia, No. II., Psalm lx. title. 
Aram-Zobah, Psalm lx. title.* 

Ararat, Mountains of, Agri-dagli, Gen. viii. 4; Jer. li. 27... 
Arba. See Kirjath-Arba. 
Arbel. See Beth-Arbel. 

Archi, Josh. xvi. 2 

Areopagus, Acts xvii. 19 

Argob (Gaulonitis), Jaulan, Deut. iii. 4, 13, 14 ; 1 Kings { 

iv. 13 J 

Ariel, a name of Jerusalem, Isaiah xxix. 1, 1, 2, 2, 7 

Arkites, Gen. x. 17; 1 Chron. i. 15 

Arim. See Kirjath-Arim. 

Arimathea (Arimatheea), Ramleli? Matt, xxvii. 57; Mark 

xv. 43; Luke xxiii. 51; John xix. 38 

Armageddon, Rev. xvi. 16. 

Armenia, id., 2 Kings xix. 37 ; Isaiah xxxvii. 38 

Arnon, River, Wady-el-Mojib, Numb. xxi. 13, 13, 14, 24, 

26, 28: xxii. 36; Deut. ii. 24, 36; iii. 8, 12, 16; iv. 48; 
Josh. xii. 1, 2; xiii. 9, 16; Judges xi. 13, 18, 18, 22, 
26 ; 2 Kings x. 33; Isaiah xvi. 2; Jer. xlviii. 20 

Aroer, G. 'Aireh, Numb, xxxii. 34; Josh. xiii. 25; 2 Sam. 

xxiv. 5 ; Isaiah xvii. 2 ? 

Aroer, 'Ara'ir, Deut. ii. 36; iii. 12; iv. 48; Josh. xii. 2; 

xiii. 9, 16; Judges xi. 26, 33; 2 Kings x. 33; 1 Chron. 

v. 8 ; Jer. xlviii. 19 

Aroer, J. ' 'Ar'arali, 1 Sam. xxx. 28 

Arpacl, 2 Kings xviii. 34; xix. 13; Isaiah x. 9; xxxvi. 19; 

xxxvii. 13 ;f Jer. xlix. 23 

Aruboth, J. 1 Kings iv. 10 

Arumaii, Judges ix. 41 

Arvad (Aradus), Ruwdd, Ezek. xxvii. 8, 11 

Arvadites, Gen. x. 18 ; 1 Chron. i. 16 

Ascent of Akrabbim, the. See Maaleh-Accrabbim. 
Ashan. or Chor-Ashan, L.S. Josh. xv. 42; xix. 7; 1 Chron. 

iv. 32; vi. 59 

Ashdod, (Azotus), Esdud, Josh. xi. 22; xv. 46, 47 ; 1 Sam. 

v. 1, 3, 5, 6, 6, 7 ; vi. 17 ; 2 Chron. xxvi. 6, 6 ; Neh. xiii. 
23, 24; Isaiah xx. 1, 1; Jer. xxv. 20; Amos i. 8; iii. 
9; Zeph. ii. 4; Zech. ix. 6 

Ashdoth-pisgah, Deut. iii. 17, springs of Pisgah. See Pisgah. 
Asia, Asia Minor, Acts ii. 9; vi. 9 ; xvi. 6 ; xix. 10, 22, 26, 

27, 31 ; xx. 4, 4, 16, 18 ; xxi. 27 : xxiv. 18 ; xxvii. 2 ; 
1 Cor. xvi. 19 ; 2 Cor. i. 8 ; 2 Tim. i. 15 ; 1 Pet. i. 1 ; 
Rev. i. 4, 11 

Ashkelon, Askelon (Ascalon), Askulan, Judges i. 18; 

xiv. 19; 1 Sam. vi. 17; 2 Sam. i. 20; Jer. xxv. 20; 
xlvii. 5, 7 ; Amos i. 8 ; Zeph. ii. 4, 7 ; Zech. ix. 5, 5... 

Ashnah, J. Josh. xv. 33, 43 

Ashtaroth, or Ashtaroth-Karnaim, L.M-. Tell ' Aslitereh, 
Gen. xiv. 5: Deut. i. 4; Josh. ix. 10; xii. 4; xiii. 12, 
31; 1 Chron. vi. 71 i. 



I N. Lat. 



3 1 56 

37 58 

33 l S 

3 2 45 
31 46 

34 34 



3 1 55 

39 

31 28 

32 1 



E. Long. 



3 1 


29 


35 


5 2 


3 1 


7 


35 


3 


34 


5 1 


35 


5 2 


3 1 


3° 


35 


9 


3 2 


14 


35 


19 


34 


5 1 


35 


5 2 


34 


5° 


36 






31 29 



31 46 



39 



31 40 
31 36 



3 2 5° 



* Signifies Syrians of Mesopotamia, as Aram Zobah does Syrians of Zobah, which see severally, 
f English trans. Arphad, same as Arpad. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



555 



Asshur, Assur (Assyria), Koordistan, Numb. xxiv. 22, 24 ; 

Ezra iv. 2 ; Psalm lxxxiii. 8 ; Ezek. xxvii. 23 ; xxxii. 

22 ; Hosea xiv. 3 

Assos, Beiram, Acts xx. 13, 14 

Assyria, Koordistan and Al-Jezireh, Gen. ii. 14 ; xxv. 18 ; 

2 Kings xv. 19, 20, 20, 29, 29 ; xvi. 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 18 ; 

xvii. 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6. 23, 24, 26, 27 ; xviii. 7, 9, 11, 

11, 13, 14, 14, 16, 17, 19, 23, 28, 30, 31, 33 ; xix. 4, 6, 

8, 10, 11, 17, 20, 32, 36 ; xx. 6 ; xxiii. 29 ; 1 Chron. 

v. 6, 26, 26 ; 2 Chron. xxviii. 16, 20, 21 ; xxx. 6 ; xxxii. 

1, 4, 7, 9, 10, 11, 21, 22; xxxiii. 11; Ezra vi. 22; Neh.. 

ix. 32 ; Isaiah vii. 17, 18, 20 ; viii. 4, 7 ; x. 12 ; xi. 11, 

16 ; xix. 23, 23, 24, 25 ; xx. 1, 4, 6 ; xxvii. 13 ; xxxvi. 

1, 2, 4, 8, 13, 15, 16, 18 ; xxxvii. 4, 6, 8, 10, 11, 18, 21, 

33, 37; xxxviii. 6; Jer. ii. 18, 36; 1. 17, 18; Ezek. 

xxiii. 5, 7 ; Hosea vii. 11 ; viii. 9 ; ix. 3 ; x. 6 ; xi. 11 ; 

Micah v. 6; vii. 12; Nahum iii. 18; Zeph. ii. 13; 

Zech. x. 10, 11 

Ataroth, G. Numb, xxxii. 3, 34 

Ataroth, 7 Atara, Josh. xvi. 2, 7 

Ataroth-Addar, or Adar, Atara, E. Josh. xvi. 5 ; xviii. 13. 
Ataroth, the house of Joab, J. 1 Chron. ii. 54. 

Athach, J. 1 Sam. xxx. 30 „ 

Athens (Athenae), Athens, Acts xvii. 15, 16, 22; xviii. 1; 

1 Thess. iii. 1 

Atroth-Shophan, G. Numb, xxxii. 35 

Attalia, Laara, Acts xiv. 25 

Ava, or Ivah (Aginis?) Hawazl 2 Kings xvii. 24 

Aven. See Beth- Aven. 

Aven, On, or Bethshemesh (Heliopolis), Matarieh, Ezek. 

xxx. 17 

Aven. plain of Ba'albek, Amos i. 5. 

Avm, B. Josh, xviii. 23 

Avim, Avites, Deut. ii. 23 ; Josh. xiii. 3 ; 2 Kings xvii. 31. 

Avith, Gen. xxxvi. 35 ; 1 Chron. i. 46 

Azal, Zech. xiv. 5. 

Azekah, J. Josh. x. 10, 11 ; xv. 35 ; 1 Sam. xvii. 1 ; 

2 Chron. xi. 9 ; Neh. xi. 30 ; Jer. xxxiv. 7 

Azem, S. See Ezem. 

Azmaveth. See Beth-Azmaveth. 

Azmon, J. Numb, xxxiv. 4, 5 ; Josh. xv. 4 

Aznoth-tabor, N. Josh. xix. 34 

Azotus, or Ashdod, Esdud, Acts viii. 40 

Azzah. See Gaza. 

Baal, or Baalath-Beer, S. 1 Chron. iv. 33. 

Baal-Gad, Josh. xi. 17 ; xii. 7 ; xiii. 5 

Baal-Hamon, Songs of Sol. viii. 11 

Baal-Hazor, E. 2 Sam. xiii. 23 

Baal-Hermon, Judges iii. 3 ; 1 Chron. v. 23 

Baal-Meon, R. Ma'in, Numb, xxxii. 38 ; 1 Chron. v. 8 ; 

Ezek. xxv. 9 

Baal-Meon. See Beth-Baal-Meon. 

Baal-Perazim, 2 Sam. v. 20, 20; 1 Chron. xiv. 11, 11 

Baal-Shalisha, E. 2 Kings iv. 42 



39 3° 



35 ° 
3 2 ° 
32 o 
31 52 

3 1 35 

3 7 5 8 

32 17 

36 51 
31 30 



30 8 

31 56 
31 40 

30 e 



E. Long. 



43" o' 
26 18 



30 50 

3 2 5 7 

31 46 



43 

35 37 

35 '3 

35 l 7 

35 2 4 

23 44 

36 o 
30 52 
48 50 



18 



35 22 
34 40 

3 5 3° 



31 41 35 1 



34 25 

35 3 7 
34 44 



33 


22 


35 


40 


33 


20 


35 


48 


3 1 


58 


35 


16 


33 


29 


35 


46 


3 1 


45 


35 


52 


3 1 


46 


35 


10 


32 


1 2 


35 






556 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Baal-Tamar, Judges xx. 33 

Baal-Zephon, Exod. xiv. 2, 9 ; Numb, xxxiii. 7 

Baalah, Kuryet-el-Eaab, Josh. xv. 9, 10, 11 ; 1 Chron. xiii. 6. 

Baal ah, Josh. xv. 29 

Baalath, Josh. xix. 44 

Baalatii (Heliopolis), Ba'albek, 1 Kings ix. 18 ; 2 Chron. 

viii. 6 

Baalath-Beer, S. Josh. xix. 8 

Babel, Babylon (Babylon), Rillah, Birs Nimrud, Mnjelibeh, 

&c, Gen. x. 10 ; xi. 9 ; 2 Kings xvii. 24, 30; xx. 12, 

14, 17, 18 ; xxiv. 1, 7, 10, 11, 12, 12, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 

20; xxv. 1, 6, 7, 8, 8, 11, 13, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 27, 28; 

1 Chron. ix. 1 ; 2 Chron. xxxii. 31 ; xxxiii. 11 ;. xxxvi. 

6, 6, 7, 7, 10, 18, 20 ; Ezra i. 11 : ii. 1, 1 : v. 12, 12, 13, 

14, 14, 17 ; vi. 1, 5 ; vii. 6, 9, 16 ; viii. 1 ; Neh. vii. 6 ; 

xiii. 6 ; Esther ii. 6 ; Psalm lxxxvii. 4 ; cxxxvii. 1, 8 ; 

Isaiah xiii. 1, 19 ; xiv. 4, 22 ; xxi. 9 ; xxxix. 1, 3, 6, 7; 

xliii. 14 ; xlvii. 1 ; xlviii. 14, 20 ; Jer. xx. 4, 4, 5, 6 ; 

xxi. 2, 4, 7, 10 ; xxii. 25 ; xxiv. 1, 1 ; xxv. 1, 9, 11, 12; 

xxvii. 6, 8, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 20, 20, 22; 

xxviii. 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 6, 11, 14; xxix. 1, 3, 3, 4, 10, 15, 
20, 21, 22, 22, 28 ; xxxii. 2, 3, 4, 5, 28, 36 ; xxxiv. 1, 
2, 3, 3, 7, 21 ; xxxv. 11 ; xxxvi. 29 ; xxxvii. 1, 17, 19 ; 
xxxviii. 3, 17, 18, 22, 23 ; xxxix. 1, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6, 7, 9, 

11, 13 ; xl. 1, 4, 4, 5, 7, 7, 9, 11 : xli. 2, 18 ; xiii. 11 ; 
xliii. 3, 10 ; xliv. 30 ; xlvi. 2, 13, 26 ; xlix. 28, 30 ; 1. 1, 
2, 8, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 23, 24, 28, 29, 34, 35, 42, 43, 
45, 46 ; li. 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 12, 24, 29, 29, 30, 31, 
33, 34, 35, 37, 41, 42, 44, 44, 47, 48, 49, 49, 53, 54, 
55, 56, 58, 59, 60, 60, 61, 64; lii. 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, 11, 

12, 12, 15, 17, 26, 27, 31, 32, 34 ; Ezek. xii. 13 ; xvii. 
12, 12, 16, 20; xix. 9; xxi. 19, 21; xxiii. 15, 17, 23; 
xxiv. 2 ; xxvi. 7 ; xxix. 18, 19 ; xxx. 10, 24, 25, 25 ; 

xxxii. 11 ; Daniel i. 1; ii. 12, 14, 18, 24, 24, 48, 48, 49; 
iii. 1, 12, 30 ; iv. 6, 29, 30 ; v. 7 ; vii. 1 ; Micah iv. 10; 
Zech. ii. 7 ; vi. 10 ; Matt. i. 11, 12, 17, 17 ; Acts vii. 
43 ; 1 Pet. v. 13 ; Rev. xiv. 8 : xvi. 19 ; xvii. 5 ; xviii. 
2, 10, 21 

Bahurim, B. (valley of) 2 Sam. iii. 16; xvi. 5; xvii. 18; 

xix. 16 ; 1 Kings ii. 8 

Bajith, Baal-Meon ? Isaiah xv. 2 

Balah, Josh. xix. 3 

Bamah, Ezek. xx. 29. 

Bamotii, Numb. xxi. 19, 20.. 

Bajioth-Baal, R. Numb. xxii. 41 ;* Josh. xiii. 17 

Barah. See Beth-Barah. 
Barak. See Bene-Berak. 
Barnea. See Kadesh-Barnea. 

Bashan (Batanaea), Jebel 'Ajhln and Rauran, parts of. 
Numb. xxi. 33, 33 ; xxxii. 33 ; Deut. i. 4 ; iii. 1. 1, 3, 
4, 10, 10, 11, 13, 13, 14;f iv.43,47; xxix. 7; xxxii. 14; 

xxxiii. 22; Josh. ix. 10: xii. 4, 5 ; xiii. 11, 12, 30, 30, 
30, 31 ; xvii. 1, 5 ; xx. 8 ; xxi. 6, 27 ; xxii. 7 ; 1 Kings 



N. Lat. 

30 o 

31 48 
31 15 
31 49 



E. Long. 

35°^ 
3 2 35 
35 9 
35 
34 58 



34 1 I 3 6 12 
31 zo 34 39 



32 30 



44 25 



3 1 47 35 21 
3 1 45 ; 35 5 2 
3 1 3 2 34 33 



3 1 34 
31 40 



3 5 5° 
3 5 5° 



* In the Hebrew, f B. Havoth-Jair in the English trans, meaning Bashan, — the portion of Jair. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



iv. 13, 19 ; 2 Kings x. 33 ; 1 Chron. v. 11, 12, 16, 23 ; 
vi. 62, 71 ; Neh. ix. 22 ; Psalm xxii. 12 ; lxviii. 15, 15, 
22; cxxxv. 11; cxxxvi. 20; Isaiah ii. 13; xxxiii. 9; 
Jer. xxii. 20 ; 1. 19 ; Ezek. xxvii. 6 ; xxxix. 18 ; Amos 

iv. 1 ; Micah vii. 14 ; Nahum i. 4 ; Zech. xi. 2 

Bath-Rabbim, Song of Sol. vii. 4. 

Bealoth, J. Josh. xv. 24 

Beer, Numb. xxi. 16 

Beer, or Beeroth, B. Bireh, Judges ix. 21 

Beer-Elim, Isaiah xv. 8 

Beer-Lahai-Roi, Gen. xvi. 14; xxiv. 62; xxv. 11 

Beer-Sheba, S. (Bersabe), Blr-es-Seba, Gen. xxi. 14, 31, 32, 
33 ; xxii. 19, 19 ; xxvi. 23, 33 ; xxviii. 10 ; xlvi. 1, 5 ; 
Josh. xv. 28; xix. 2; Judges xx. 1; 1 Sam. iii. 20; 
viii. 2; 2 Sam. iii. 10: xvii. 11; xxiv. 2, 7, 15; 1 Kings 
iv. 25 ; xix. 3 ; 2 Kings xii. 1 ; xxiii. 8 ; 1 Chron. iv. 28 : 
xxi. 2; 2 Chron. xix. 4; xxiv. 1; xxx. 5; Neh. xi. 27, 

30; Amos v. 5; viii. 14 

Beeroth, B. Bireh, Josh. ix. 17; xviii. 25; 2 Sam. iv. 2; 

Ezra ii. 25; Neh. vii. 29 

Beeroth, "Beeroth of the Children of Jaakan," Deut. x. 6.. 

Beeshterah, M. or Ashtaroth, Josh. xxi. 27 

Bela, Gen. xiv. 2, 8 

Bene-Berak, D. Buraka? Josh. xix. 45 

Bene-Jaakan, Numb, xxxiii. 31, 32 

Beon, or Baal-Meon, M&'in, Numb, xxxii. 3 

Berachah, BereikM, 2 Chron. xx. 26, 26 

Berea (Beroea), Karaveria, Acts xvii. 10, 13 

Bered, Gen. xvi. 14 

Berothah, or Berothai? Beirut? Ezek. xlvii. 16* 

Berothai? Baalbek? 2 Sam. viii. 8 

Besor, Brook, Wady Sheri'ah, 1 Sam. xxx. 9, 10, 21 

Betah, (Emesa?), Horns? 2 Sam. viii. 8 

Beten, A. Josh. xix. 25 

of the Greek Catholics 
of the Latin " 

Beth-Anath, N. Josh. xix. 38; Judges i. 33, 33 

Beth-Anoth, J. Josh. xv. 59 

Bethany, B. El J Azariyeh, Matt. xxi. 17; xxvi. 6; Mark xi. 
1, 11, 12; xiv. 3; Luke xix. 29; xxiv. 50; John xi. 1, 

18; xii. 1 . 

Beth-Arabah, B. Josh. xv. 6, 61; xviii. 22 

Beth-Aram, or Beth-Haran (Livias?), Er-Rameh? Josh.xiii. 
27 



32-50' 

32 20 

31 10 

31 26 

3 l 54 

3 1 34 

3 r 8 



3 1 



*7 



Bethabara, 



John i. 28. 



Beth-Arbel, (*Ap(3r/Xa of Galilee), Irbid? Hosea x. 14 

Beth-Aven ? B. Josh. vii. 2; xviii. 12; 1 Sam. xiii. 5: xiv. 

23; Hosea iv. 15 ; v. 8; x. 5 

Beth-Azmavetii, Neh. vii. 28 

Beth-Baal-Meon, R. or Baal-Meon? Md'in, Josh. xiii. 17.. 

Beth-Barah, Bethabara? Judges vii. 24, 24 

Beth-Birei, S. 1 Chron. iv. 31 

Beth-Car, J. 1 Sam. vii. 11 

Beth-Dagon, J. Beit Dejan, Josh. xv. 41 



3 1 

30 

3 2 
3 1 
31 38 

30 o 

3 1 45 
3 1 39 
40 35 
31 10 
3 3 54 
3 3 5 9 
31 23 



31 46 



3 1 49 

3 2 49 

31 56 

3 1 49 

3 1 45 

31 50 

3 1 35 

3 1 49 

32 o 



Consul-General's Garden, Lat. 33° 54' 30", Long. 35° 29' 21". 



558 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Beth-Dagon, A. Josh. xix. 27 

Beth-Diblathaim, or Almon-Diblathaim, Jer. xlviii. 22.... 

Beth-el, B. Beifin, Gen. xii. 8, 8; xiii. 3, 3; xxviii. 19; 
xxxi. 13; xxxv. 1, 3, 6, 8, 15, 16; Josh. vii. 2; viii. 9, 
12, 17; xii. 9, 16; xvi. 1, 2; xviii. 13, 22; Judges i. 
22, 23 ; iv. 5 : xx. 18* 26 * 31 ;* xxi. 2 * 19, 19 ; 1 Sam. 
vii. 16; x. 3; xiii. 2: xxx. 27; 1 Kings xii. 29, 32, 32, 
33; xiii. 1, 4, 10, 11, 11, 32; 2 Kings ii. 2, 2, 3, 23; 
x, 29; xvii. 28; xxiii. 4, 15, 17, 19; 1 Chron. vii. 28: 
2 Chron. xiii. 19; Ezra ii. 28; Neh. vii. 32; xi. 31: 
Jer. xlviii. 13 ; Hosea x. 15 ; xii. 4; Amos iii. 14; iv. 4; 
v. 5, 5, 6; vii. 10, 13 

Bethel. See El-Beth-el. 

Beth-Emek, A. Josh. xix. 27 

Bethesda, Pool of, John v. 2 

Beth-Ezel, J. Bethel? Micah i. 11 ;> 

Beth-Gader, Gedor ? Jedtir? 1 Chron. ii. 51 

Beth-Gamul, Um-el-Jemal? Jer. xlviii. 23 

Beth-Haccerem (Herodium?), Jebel el-Fureidis? Neh. iii. 

14; Jer. vi. 1 

Beth-Hanan, J. See Elon-Beth-Hanan. 

Beth-Haran, G. (Livias), Er-Bameh? Numb, xxxii. 36 

Beth-Hoglah, B. 'Ain Hajla, Josh. xv. 6 ; xviii. 19, 21 

Beth-Horon, EX. f»£$££} Josh. X . 10, 

11; xvi. 3, 5; xviii. 13, 14; xxi. 22; 1 Sam. xiii. 18; 

1 Kings ix. 17; 1 Chron. vi. 68 ; vii. 24; 2 Chron. viii. 
5, 5 ; xxv. 13 

Beth-Jeshimoth, R. Numb, xxxiii. 49; Josh. xii. 3; xiii. 

20; Ezek.xxv. 9 

Beth-Lebaoth, S. Josh. xix. 6 

Bethlehem, J. Beit Lahm, Gen. xxxv. 19; xlviii. 7 ; Judges 

xii. 8, 10; xvii. 7, 8, 9; xix. 1, 2, 18, 18; Ruth i. 1, 2, 

19, 19, 22; ii. 4; iv. 11; 1 Sam. xvi. 4; xvii. 12, 15; 

xx. 6, 28; 2 Sam. ii. 32; xxiii. 14, 15, 16, 24 ; 1 Chron. 

ii. 51, 54: iv. 4; xi. 16, 17, 18, 26; 2 Chron. xi. 6; 

Ezra ii. 21; Neh. vii. 26; Jer. xii. 17; Micah v. 2; 

Matt. ii. 1, 5, 6, 8, 16; Luke ii. 4, 15; John vii. 42 

Bethlehem, Z. Beit Lahm, Josh. xix. 15 

Beth-Maachah, N. 2 Sam. xx. 14, 15 

Beth-Marcaboth, S. Josh. xix. 5; 1 Chron. iv. 31 

Beth-Meon, R. or Baal-Meon, Ma'in, Jer. xlviii. 23 

Beth-Nimrah, G. (B?]dvaj3pLg), Nimnn, Numb, xxxii. 36 

Beth-Palet, J. Beth-Phelet, Josh. xv. 27; Neh. xi. 26 

Beth-Pazzez, I. Josh. xix. 21 

Beth-Peor, R. Deut. iii. 29 ; iv. 46 ; xxxiv. 6 ; Josh. xiii. 20.. 

Bethphage, B. Matt. xxi. 1; Mark xi. 1; Luke xix. 29 

Beth-Rehob, A. Judges xviii. 28; 2 Sam. x. 6 

Bethsaida? Matt. xi. 21; Luke x. 13; John i. 44; xii. 21.. 
Bethsaida, M-. (Julias), et-Tell, Mark vi. 45; viii. 22: 

Luke ix. 10 a 

Beth- Shan, M-. (Scythopolis), Beisdn, 1 Sam. xxxi. 10, 12 ; 

2 Sam. xxi. 12 



N. Lat. I E. Long. 

3*°59'| 35°i7" 
3 1 42 ! 35 5° 



3 1 55 

3 2 57 
3 1 47 
3i 55 

31 39 

32 23 



31 40 

3 1 49 
3 1 49 



3 1 53 
3 1 53 



31 27 



31 42 

3 2 44 

33 18 
31 36 

3 1 45 

3 1 57 

3 1 9 

32 37 
31 46 

31 46 

3 3 2 4 

32 52 

32 5 6 

3 2 33 35 3 2 



Bethel in the Hebrew, but translated in the English "House of God. : 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



559 



Beth-Sheax, or Beth-Shan (Scythopolis), Beisdn, Josh. 

xvii. 11. 16: Judges i. 27 ; 1 Kings iv. 12, 12; 1 Chron. 

vii. 29 

Beth-Shemesh, L.J. 'Ain Shems, Josh. xv. 10; xxi. 16: 

1 Sam. vi. 9, 12, 12, 13, 15, 19, 20; 1 Kings iv. 9; 

2 Kings xiv. 11, 13; 1 Chron. vi. 59; 2 Chron. xxv. 21, 
23 ; xxviii. 18 

Beth-Shemesh? I. Josh. xix. 22 

Beth-Shemesh, Josh. xix. 38; Judges i. 33, 33 

Beth-Shemesh, On, or Aven (Heliopolis), Matarieh, Jer. 

xliii. 13 

Beth-Shittah, Shtdta? Judges vii. 22 

Beth-Tappuah, J. Teffuh, Josh. xv. 53. 

Bethuel, 1 Chron. iv. 30 

Bethul, S. or Bethuel, Josh. xix. 4 

Beth-Zur, J. Ed-Dirweh? Josh. xv. 58; 1 Chron. ii. 45: 

2 Chron. xi. 7; Neh. iii. 16 

Betoxim, G. Batnehf Josh. xiii. 26 

Bezek, Judges i. 4, 5 ; 1 Sam. xi. 8 

Bezer, R. Deut. iv. 43 ; Josh. xx. 8; 1 Chron. vi. 78; vii. 37.. 

Bileam, L.M-. or Ibleam, 1 Chron. vi. 70 

Bilhah, S. 1 Chron. iv. 29 

Birei. See Beth-Birei. 

Bithynia, Anatolia, part of, Acts xvi. 7; 1 Pet. i. 1 

Bithrox, Jebul 'Ajlun, part of, 2 Sam. ii. 29 

Bizjothjah, J. Josh. XV. 28 

Bochim, Judges ii. 1, 5 

Bohan, B.R. "Stone of," Josh. xv. 6; xviii. 17. 

Boscath, J. Bozkath, Josh. xv. 39; 2 Kings xxii. 1 

Bozez, 1 Sam. xiv. 4 

Bozrah (Bostra), Boszra, Jer. xlviii. 24; Micah ii. 12 

Bozrah of Edom (Bostra Arabite), El-Busaireh, Gen. xxxvi. 

33; 1 Chron. i. 44; Isaiah xxxiv. 6: lxiii. 1; Jer. xlix. 

13, 22; Amos i. 12 



Cabbox, J. Josh. xv. 40 

Cabul, A. Josh. xix. 27; 1 Kings ix. 13 

Caix, Josh. xv. 57. 

Calah, Halah? Chala? Sar Puli Zohdbf Gen. x. 11, 12 

Caleb-Ephratah, 1 Chron. ii. 24 

Caineh (Ctesiphon?), Tauk-i-Kesrah, Gen. x. 10; Amos vi. 2. 

Calno, Caineh? Isaiah x. 9 

Calvary, Church of the Holy Sspulchre? Luke xxiii. 33.... 

Camox, Judges x. 5 

Cana, Kana, John ii. 1, 11; iv. 46; xxi. 2 

Caxaax (PaLgestina), The Holy Land, Gen. xi. 31; xii. 5, 

5; xiii. 12; xvi. 3; xvii. 8: xxiii. 2, 19; xxviii. 1, 6, 

8; xxxi. 18; xxxiii. 18: xxxv. 6; xxxvi. 2, 5, 6; 

xxxvii. 1 ; xiii. 5, 7, 13, 29, 32 ; xliv. 8 ; xiv. 17, 25 ; 

xlvi. 6, 12, 31; xlvii. 1, 4, 13, 14, 15; xlviii. 3, 7; 

xlix. 30 ; 1. 5, 13 ; Exod. vi. 4 : xv. 15 : xvi. 35 ; Levit. 

xiv. 34 ; xviii. 3 ; xxv. 38 ; Numb. xiii. 2, 17 ; xxvi. 



N. 


Lat. 


E. Long. 


3 2 


3 33 / 


35< 


5 3 2/ 


3 1 


44 


35 


04 


3 2 


40 


35 


1 




5 


35 


3 2 


3° 


8 


?: 


18 


3 2 


2 9 


35 


2 3 


3 1 


33 


35 


5 


3 1 


34 


34 


3 3 


3 1 


34 


34 


33 


3 r 


35 


35 


1 4 


3 2 


2 


35 


40 


3 2 


20 


35 


19 


3 1 


36 


35 


5° 


r- 


37 


3 5 


18 


3 1 




34 


34 


40 





30 





3 2 


3° 


35 


5° 


3 1 


16 


34 


3 l 


3 2 


7 


35 


16 


3 1 


33 


34 


5° 


3* 


53 


35 


1 6 


3 2 


20 


3 6 


1 8 


30 


5 2 


3 5 


A "> 
43 


3 1 


3 2 


34 


5 1 


33 


10 


35 


2 3 


34 


33 


46 


5 


3 1 


2 7 


3 5 


5 


33 


7 


44 


26 


33 


7 


44 


26 


3 1 


46 


3 5 


18 


3 2 


5° 


3 5 


55 


33 


49 


35 


19 



19 ; xxxii. 30, 32 ; xxxiii. 40, 51 ; xxxh 
10, 14; Deut, xxxii. 49; Josh. v. 12; 
xxii. 9, 10, 11. 32 : xxiv. 3 ; Judges iii. 



. 2, 2, 29 ; xxxv. 
xiv. 1 ; xxi. 2 : 
1 ; iv. 2, 23, 24, 



560 THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



24; v. 19; xxi. 12; 1 Chron. xvi. 18; Psalm cv. 11; 

cvi. 38; cxxxv. 11; Isaiah xix. 18; Ezek. xvi. 29; 

Hosea xii. 7 ;* Zeph. ii. 5 , 

Canaanite 

Canneh, or Calneh. (Ctesiphon ?), Tauk-i-Kesrali f Ezek. 

xxvii. 23 

Capernaum, Khan Minyehf Matt. iv. 13 ; viii. 5 ; xi. 23 ; 

xvii. 24; Mark i. 21 ; ii. 1 ; ix. 33; Luke iv. 23, 31 ; 

vii. 1 ; x. 15 ; John ii. 12 ; iv. 46 ; vi. 17, 24, 59 

Caphtor, Egypt? Lower Egypt, Deut. ii. 23 ; Jer. xlvii. 4; 

Amos ix. 7 

Cappadocia, Bourn, part of, Acts ii. 9; 1 Pet. i. 1 

Carchemish, Charchemish (Circesium), Kerkisiyeh, 2 Chron. 

xxxv. 20 ; Isaiah x. 9 ; Jer. xlvi. 2 

Carmel, J. Kurmul, Josh. xv. 55 ; 1 Sam. xv. 12 ; xxv. 2, 

2, 5, 7, 40 

Carmel, Mount, Jebel Mar Elias, Josh. xii. 22; xix. 26; 

1 Kings xviii. 19, 20, 42: 2 Kings ii. 25 ; iv. 25 ; xix. 

23; 2" Chron. xxvi. 10; Song of Sol. vii. 5: Isaiah 

xxxiii. 9; xxxv. 2; xxxvii. 24; Jer. xlvi. 18; 1. 19; 

Amos i. 2 ; ix. 3 ; Micah vii. 14 ; Nahum i. 4 

Casiphia, Caspian Sea, near the? Ezra viii. 17, 17 

Cedron, Brook, Wady Kidrdn, John xviii. 1 

Cenchrea (Cenchrece), Kekries, Acts xviii. 18 ; Romans 

xvi. 1 

Cesarea (Cnesarea), Kaisarieli, Acts viii. 40; ix. 30: x. 1. 

24 ; xi. 1 1 ; xii. 19 ; xviii. 22 ; xxi. 8, 16 ; xxiii. 23, 33 ; 

xxv. 1, 4, 6, 13 

Cesarea Philippi (Ccesarea Philippi, or Paneas), Banias, 

Matt. xvi. 13 ; Mark viii. 27 

Chanaan Canaan (Palestine), The Holy Land, Matt. xv. ) 

22; Acts vii. 11 ; xiii. 19 j 

Chaldea (Chaldaea), Irak-Arabi, Jer. 1. 10 ; li. 24, 35 ; Ezek. 

xi. 24; xvi. 29; xxiii. 15, 16 

Charashim, or Ono? 1 Chron. iv. 14, 14; Neh. xi. 35 

Charran, or Haran (Charrse), Harran, Acts vii. 2, 4 

Chebar, River of (R, Chaboras), R. Khabour, Ezek. i. 1, 3 ; 

' iii. 15, 23; x. 15, 20, 22; xliii. 3 

Chephar-Haammonai, Josh, xviii. 24 

Chephirah, B. Josh. ix. 17 ; xviii. 26 ; Ezra ii. 25 ; Neh. 

vii. 29 

Cherith. Brook, Wady Kelt? 1 Kings xvii. 3, 5 

Chesalon, J. Josh. xv. 10 

Chesil, J. Josh. xv. 30 

Chesullotii, I. Josh. xix. 18 

Chezib, J. Achzib? Gen. xxxviii. 5 

Chilmad, Mesopotamia? Ezek. xxvii. 23 

Chinnereth, or Cinneroth, Deut. iii. 17; Josh. xi. 2; xix. 

35 ; 1 Kings xv. 20 

Chinnereth, or Cinneroth, Sea of (L. of Tiberias), Bahr 

TubaHyeh, Numb, xxxiv. 11 ; Josh. xii. 3 ; xiii. 27 

Chios, Khio, Acts xx. 15 

Chisloth-Tabor (Xaloth), Iksal, Josh. xix. 12 



| N. Lat. | E. Long. 



3 2° 3 C/ 


35 


l 5 


3 2 


5° 


35 c 


5 io' 


33 


7 


44 


20 


3 2 


5° 


35 


3 2 


3 1 





3 1 


3° 


39 





36 





35 


8 


40 


2 8 


3 1 


26 


35 


16 


3 2 


47 


35 


I 


39 







O 


3 1 


47 


35 


l 9 


37 


54 


2 3 





3 2 


3 2 


34 


55 


33 


1 ) 


35 


4 1 


34 





34 


30 


31 





36 


20 


3 2 





45 





3 2 


2 


35 


1 


3 6 


5 3 


39 


30 


36 





4i 





3 1 


5 2 


35 


7 


3 1 


5 1 


35 


8 


3 1 


5° 


35 


2 5 


3 1 


46 


35 


1 


3 1 


l 7 


34 3 6 


3 2 


4 2 


35 


2 1 


33 


3 


35 


05 


36 





40 





3 2 


46 


35 


33 


3 2 


47 


35 


37 


3? 


20 


26 





3 2 


4 2 


35 


2 1 



* English trans. Merchant, but in Hebrew Canaan. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



561 



Chittim, Kittim (Cyprus), Gen. x. 4; Numb. xxiv. 24; 

1 Chron. i. 7 ; Isaiah xxiii. 1, 12 ; Jer. ii. 10 ; Ezek. 

xxvii. 6 ; Daniel xi. 30 

Chor-Ashan, or Ashan ? 1 Sam. xxx. 30 

Chorazin, Matt. xi. 21 ; Luke x. 13 

Chozeba (Charax?),Xerek? 1 Chron. iv. 22* 

Chub (Cyrenaica?), Barca? Ezek. xxx. 5 „ 

Chun (Heliopolis?), Ba'albek? 1 Chron. xviii. 8 

Cilicia, Karamania, Acts vi. 9 ; xv. 23, 41 ; xxi. 39 ; xxii. 

3 ; xxiii. 34; xxvii. 5 ; Gal. i. 21 

Clauda (Gaudos, or Claudos), Gozo, Acts xxvii. 16 

Cnidus, Cape Krio, Acts xxvii. 7 

Colosse (Colossse), near Chonos, Col. i. 2 

Coos (Cos), Cos, Acts xxi. 1 

Corinth (Corinthus), Corinth, Acts xviii. 1 ; xix. 1 ; 1 Cor. 

i. 2 ; 2 Cor. i. 1, 23 ; 2 Tim. iv. 20 

Crete (Creta), Candia, Acts xxvii. 7, 12, 13, 21; Titus i. 5. 
Cush. See Ethiopia. 

Cushan, Cush, Arabia? Habakkuk iii. 7 

Cuth, Cuthah (Susiana), Khusistan, 2 Kings xvii. 24, 30... 
Cyprus, id., Acts iv. 36 ; xi. 19, 20 ; xiii. 4 ; xv. 39 ; xxi. 

3, 16 ; xxvii. 4 

Cyrene, Grennah, Matt, xxvii. 32 ; Acts ii. 10 ; xi. 20 ; xiii. 

1 



E. Long. 



Dabbasheth, Z. Josh. xix. 11 

Daberath, L.I. Dabareh, Debiirieh, Josh. xix. 12 ; xxi. 28 

1 Chron. vi. 72 : 

Dagon. See Beth-Dagon. 

Dale, the King's, Valley of Jehoshaphat, Gen. xiv 



17 



Dalmanutha, Mark viii. 10 

Dalmatia, id., 2 Tim. iv. 10 

Damascus, Damascus, or Esh-Sham, Gen. xiv. 15 ; xv. 2 ; 
2 Sam. viii. 5, 6 ; 1 Kings xi. 24, 24 : xv. 18 ; xix. 15 ; 
xx. 34; 2 Kings v. 12 ; viii. 7, 9 ; xiv. 28 ; xvi. 9, 10, 
10, 11, 11, 12 : 1 Chron. xviii. 5, 6 ; 2 Chron. xvi. 2 ; 
xxiv. 23 ; xxviii. 5, 23 ; Song of Sol. vii. 4 ; Isaiah vii. 
8, 8 ; viii. 4 ; x. 9 ; xvii. 1, 1, 3 ; Jer. xlix. 23, 24, 27 ; 
Ezek. xxvii. 18 ; xlvii. 16, 17, 18 ; xlviii. 1 ; Amos i. 
3, 5 ; iii. 12 ; v. 27 ; Zech. ix. 1 ; Acts ix. 2, 3, 8, 10, 
19, 22, 27 ; xxii. 5, 6, 10, 11 ; xxvi. 12, 20 ; 2 Cor. xi. j 
32; Gal. i. 17 33 33 

Dammim. See Pas-Dammim. 

Dan, N. Laish, or Leshcm, Tell el-Kady, Gen. xiv. 14; 

Deut. xxxiv. 1 ; Josh. xix. 47 ; Judges xviii. 29 ; xx. ! 

1 ; 1 Sam. iii. 20 ; 2 Sam. iii. 10 ; xvii. 11 ; xxiv. 2, 15 ; 

1 Kings iv. 25 ; xii. 29, 30 ; xv. 20 ; 2 Kings x. 29 ; j 

1 Chron. xxi. 2 ; 2 Chron. xvi. 4 ; xxx. 5 ; Jer. iv. 15 ; 

viii. 16; Ezek. xlviii. 1, 2; Amos viii. 14 33 17 

Dan-Jaan, Dan? Tell el-Kady, 2 Sam. xxiv. 6 33 15 

Dan. See Mahaneh-Dan. 



J J 


3 o / 


3 5 


5 o' 


3 1 


29 


34 


45 


3 2 


54 


35 


35 


? 1 
j 


1 7 


34. 




32 


O 


22 


O 


34 


02 


36 


*3 


37 


O 


35 





34 


5 1 


24 


5 


36 


42 


2 7 


26 


37 


49 


29 


23 


36 


43 


27 


1 


37 


5° 


22 


5 1 


? c 
j 3 


1 


2 ^ 





20 





IT 





2. I 


j 


48 


70 
j 


35 





33 





32 


5° 


2 1 


46 


32 


43 


35 


24 


32 


4 1 


35 


25 


3 1 


46 


35 


19 


32 


46 


35 


40 


43 





l 7 


30 



36 22 



35 39 
35 39 



* Perhaps the same as Chezib, which see. 
36 



562 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Dannah, J. Josh. xv. 49 

Debir, L.J. Josh. x. 3, 38, 39 ; xi. 21 ; xii. 13 : xv. 7, 15, 

15, 49 ; xxi. 15 ; Judges i. 11, 11 ; 1 Chron. vi. 58 

Debir, Josh. xiii. 26 

Decapolis, Matt. iv. 25 ; Mark v. 20; vii. 31 

Dedan (Arabia, part of?), Jer. xxv. 23; xlix. 8; Ezek. 

xxvii. 15, 20; xxxviii. 13 

Derbe, Devli f Acts xiv. 6, 20 ; xvi. 1 ; xx. 4 

Diblath, Almon-Diblathaim ? Ezek. vi. 14 

Diblathaim. See Almon-Diblathaim, Beth-Diblathaim. 
Dibon, G. Dliibtin, Numb. xxi. 30; xxxii. 3, 34; xxxiii. 45,* 

46 ;* Josh. xiii. 9, 17 ; Isaiah xv. 2 ; Jer. xlviii. 22 

Dibon, J. or Dimonah? Neh. xi. 25 

Dilean, J. Josh. xv. 38 

Dimnah, L.Z. Josh. xxi. 35 

Dimon, J. Dibon? Dhib&n, Isaiah xv. 9, 9 

Dimonah, Josh. xv. 22 

Dinhabah, Ezion-Geber? Gen. xxxvi. 32; 1 Chron. i. 43.... 

Dizahab, Daliab? Deut. i. 1 

Dophkah, El-Tobbachd, Numb, xxxiii. 12, 13 

Dor, M-. (Dora), Tantura, Josh. xi. 2; xii. 23, 23; xvii. 

11 ; Judges i. 27 ; 1 Kings iv. 11 ; 1 Chron. vii. 29 

Dor. See Hammoth-Dor. 

Dothan, T. Dotlian? Gen. xxxvii. 17, 17 ; 2 Kings vi. 13... 

Dcmah, Josh. xv. 52; Isaiah xxi. 11 

Dura, Plain of, Daniel iii. 1 

Ebal, Mount, E. Deut. xi. 29 ; xxvii. 4, 13; Josh. viii. 30, 33. 

Ebenezer, 1 Sam. iv. 1 ; v. 1 ; vii. 12 

Ebronah, Numb, xxxiii. 34, 35 

Edar, Tower of, " Tower of the Flock," Gen. xxxv. 21 ; 

Micah iv. 8 

Eden (Armenia, part of?), Gen. ii. 8, 10, 15; iii. 23, 24; 

iv. 16 ; Isaiah li. 3 ; Ezek. xxviii. 13 ; xxxi. 9, 16, 18, 

18 ; xxxvi. 35 ; Joel ii. 3 

Eden, Ehden? 2 Kings xix. 12; Isaiah xxxvii. 12; Ezek. 

xxvii. 23, 

Eden, ''House of," Ehden? Amos i. 5 

Eder, J. Josh. xv. 21 

Edom, Idumea (Idumsea,) Esh-SheraJi, Gen. xxxii. 4; xxxvi. 

16, 17, 21, 31, 32, 43 ; Numb. xx. 14, 23 ; xxi. 4 ; xxiv. 
18; xxxiii. 37; xxxiv. 3; Josh. xv. 1, 21; Judges v. 
4 ; xi. 17, 17, 18 ; 2 Sam. viii. 14, 14, 14 ; 1 Kings ix. 
26 ; xi. 14, 15, 15, 16 ; xxii. 47 ; 2 Kings iii. 8, 9, 12, 
20, 26 ; xiv. 7 ; 1 Chron. i. 43, 51, 54; xviii. 3 : 2 Chron. 
viii. 17 ; Psalm lx. 8, 9; cviii. 9, 10 ; Isaiah xxxiv. 5, 6 ; 
lxiii. 1 ; Jer. xxvii. 3 ; xl. 11 ; xlix. 17, 22 ; Ezek. xxv. 
12, 13, 14, 14 ; xxxii. 29 ; xxxv. 15 ; xxxvi. 5 ; Daniel 
xi. 41 ; Joel iii. 19 ; Amos ii. 1 ; Obadiah i. 8 

Edomite, Deut. xxiii. 7; 1 Sam. xxi. 7; xxii. 9, 18, 22; 
1 Kings xi. 1, 14, 17; 2 Chron. xxv. 14; Psalm Iii. 
title '.. 



JT. T-at. ! E. Long. 

31*27' 35° 8' 



3 1 


2 8 


35 


2 


3 2 


28 


36 


4 


3 2 


3° 


35 


45 


2 3 





57 





37 


20 


33 


5° 


3 1 


34 


35 


5 2 


3 1 


3 2 


35 


5 1 


3 1 


3 


35 


1 7 


3 1 


3° 


34 


5 5 


3 2 


5° 


35 


2 5 


3 1 


3 1 


35 


5 1 


3 1 


3 


35 


l 7 


29 


33 


34 


5 s 


28 


3° 


34 


31 


28 


56 


33 


22 


3 2 


38 


34 


56 


32 


26 


35 


18 


3 1 


28 


35 


4 


3 2 


30 


44 


30 


3 2 


1 D 


35 




3 1 


5° 


35 


8 


29 


35 


35 





3 1 


38 


35 


1 2 


39 





43 





34 


16 


35 


56 


34 


16 


35 


56 


3 1 


10 


35 


18 



30 30 



* Dibon-gad, in the Hebrew. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



503 



Edrei, M-. (Adra), Edhra, Numb. xxi. 33 ; Deut. i. 4; iii. 

1, 10; Josh. xii. 4; xiii. 12, 31 

Edrei, N. Josh. xix. 37 

Eglaim, "AyaX?M ? Isaiah xv. 8 

Eglaim. See En-Eglaim. 

Eglon, J. Ajldn, Josh. x. 3, 5, 23, 34, 36, 37 ; xii. 12; xv. 
39? 

Egypt (^gyptus), Egypt, Gen. xii. 10, 11, 14; xiii. 1, 10; 
xv. 18 ; xxi. 21 ; xxv. 18 ; xxvi. 2 ; xxxvii. 25, 28, 36 ; 
xxxix. 1 ; xl. 1, 1, 5 ; xii. 8, 19, 29, 30, 33, 34, 36, 41, 
43, 44, 45, 46, 46, 48, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57 ; xiii. 1, 2, 3 ; 
xliii. 2, 15 ; xlv. 4, 8, 9, 13, 18, 19, 20, 23, 25, 26 ; 
xlvi. 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 20, 26, 27, 27 ; xlvii. 6, 11, 13, 14, 
15, 20, 21, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 ; xlviii. 5, 5 ; 1. 7, 14, 22, 
26 ; Exod. i. 1, 5, 8, 15, 17, 18 ; ii. 23 ; iii. 7, 10, 11, 
12, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 ; iv. 18, 19, 20, 21 ; v. 4, 12 ; vi. 
11, 13, 13, 26, 27, 27, 28, 29 ; vii. 3, 4, 4, 5, 11, 19, 19, 

21, 22 ; viii. 5, 6, 6, 7, 16, 17, 24 ; ix. 4, 6, 9, 9, 18, 22, 

22, 23, 24, 25 : x. 2, 7, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15, 19, 21, 
22; xi. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9; xii. 1, 12, 12, 12, 13, 17, 27, 
29, 30, 39, 39, 40. 41, 42, 51 ; xiii. 3, 8, 9, 14, 15, 
16,17, 18; xiv. 5, 7, 8, 11,11,12; xvi. 1, 3, 6, 32 ; xvii. 
3 ; xviii. 1, 8 ; xix. 1 ; xx. 2 ; xxii. 21 ; xxiii. 9, 15 ; 
xxix. 46 ; xxxii. 1, 4, 7, 8, 11, 23 ; xxxiii. 1 ; xxxiv. 
18 ; Levit. xi. 45 ; xviii. 3 ; xix. 34, 36 ; xxii. 33 ; xxiii. 
43 ; xxv. 38. 42, 55 ; xxvi. 13, 45 ; Numb. i. 1 ; iii. 13 ; 
viii. 17 ; ix. 1 ; xi. 5, 18, 20 ; xiii. 22 ; xiv. 2, 3, 4, 19, 
22 ; xv. 41 ; xx. 5, 15, 15, 15, 16 ; xxi. 5 ; xxii. 5, 11 ; 

xxiii. 22 ; xxiv. 8 ; xxvi. 4, 59 ; xxxii. 11 ; xxxiii. 1, 
38 ; xxxiv. 5 ; Deut. i. 27, 30 ; iv. 20, 34, 37. 45, 46 ; 
v. 6, 15 ; vi. 12, 21, 21, 22 ; vii. 8, 15, 18 ; viii. 14; ix. 
7, 12, 26 ; x. 19, 22 ; xi. 3, 3, 4, 10 ; xiii. 5, 10 ; xv. 
15 ; xvi. 1, 3, 3, 6, 12 ; xvii. 16 ; xx. 1 ; xxiii. 4: xxiv. 
9, 18, 22 ; xxv. 17 ; xxvi. 5, 8 ; xxviii. 27, 60, 68; xxix. 

2, 16, 25 ; xxxiv. 11 ; Josh. ii. 10 ; v. 4, 4, 5, 6, 9 ; ix. 
9; xiii. 3; xv. 4, 47; xxiv. 4, 5, 6, 7, 14, 17, 32; 
Judges ii. 1, 12 ; vi. 8, 13 ; xi. 13, 16 ; xix. 30; 1 Sam. 
ii. 27 ; viii. 8 ; x. 18 ; xii. 6, 8, 8 ; xv. 2, 6, 7 ; xxvii. 8; 
2 Sam. vii. 6, 23 ; 1 Kings iii. 1 ; iv. 21, 30 ; vi. 1 ; viii. 
9, 16, 21, 51, 53, 65; ix. 9, 16; x. 28, 29; xi. 17, 18, 
18, 21, 40, 40, 40 ; xii. 2, 2, 28 ; xiv. 25 ; 2 Kings xvii. 
4, 7, 7, 36 ; xviii. 21, 21, 24 ; xxi. 15 : xxiii. 29, 34 ; 

xxiv. 7, 7, 7 ; xxv. 26 ; 1 Chron. xiii. 5 ; xvii. 21 : 
2 Chron. i. 16, 17 ; v. 10 ; vi. 5 ; vii. 8, 22 ; ix. 26, 28 ; 
x. 2, 2 ; xii. 2, 3, 9 ; xx. 10 ; xxvi. 8 ; xxxv. 20 ; xxxvi. 

3, 4, 4 : Neh. ix. 9, 18 ; Psalm lxviii. 31 ; lxxviii. 12, 
43, 51 ; lxxx. 8 ; lxxxi. 5, 10 ; cv. 23, 38 ; cvi. 7, 21 ; 
cxiv. 1 ; cxxxv. 8, 9 ; cxxxvi. 10 ; Proverbs vii. 16 ; 
Isaiah vii. 18 ; x. 24, 26 ; xi. 11, 16 ; xix. 1, 1, 1, 1, 
3, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 23, 24, 
25 ; xx. 3, 4, 5 ; xxiii. 5 ; xxvii. 12, 13 ; xxx. 2, 2, 3 ; 
xxxi. 1; xxxvi. 6, 6, 9; xliii. 3 ; xlv. 14; Iii. 4; Jer. 
ii. 6, 18, 36; vii. 22, 25; ix. 26; xi. 4, 7; xvi. 14; 
xxiii. 7 xxiv. 8 ; xxv. 19 ; xxvi. 21, 22, 22, 23 ; xxxi. 
32 ; xxxii. 20, 21 ; xxxiv. 13 ; xxxvii. 5, 7 ; xii. 17 ; 
xiii. 14, 15, 16, 16, 17, 18, 19; xliii. 2, 7, 11, 12, 12, 



3* 58 
3 1 20 



3 1 33 



E. Long. 

3 6°io / 
35 38 
35 5° 



34 5° 



504 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



13, 13 ; xliv. 1, 8, 12, 12, 13, 14, 15, 24, 26, 26, 27, 28, 
28, 30 ; xlvi. 2, 2. 8, 11, 13, 14, 17, 19. 20, 24, 25 ; 
Ezek. xvii. 15 ; xix. 4 ; xx. 5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 36 ; xxiii. 
3, 8, 19, 27, 27 ; xxvii. 7 ; xxix. 2, 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12. 

14, 19, 20: xxx. 4, 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 13. 15, 16, 18, 
19, 21, 22, 25 ; xxxi. 2 ; xxxii. 2, 12. 15, 16, 18 ; Daniel 

ix. 15 ; xi. 8, 42, 43 ; Hosea ii. 15 ; vii. 11, 16 ; viii. 
13 ; ix. 3, 6 ; xi. 1, 5, 11 ; xii. 1, 9, 13 : xiii. 4; Joel 
iii. 19 ; Amos ii. 10; iii. 1, 9 ; iv. 10; viii. 8 ; ix. 5, 7 ; 
Micah vi. 4 ; vii. 15 ; Nahum iii. 9 ; Haggai ii. 5 : Zech. 

x. 10, 11 ; xiv. 18, 19 ; Matt. ii. 13, 14, 15, 19 ; Acts 
ii. 10 ; vii. 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 15, 17, 34, 34, 36, 39, 40 ; 
xiii. 17 : Hebrews iii. 16 ; viii. 9 ; xi. 26, 27 ; Jude 5 ; 
Rev. xi. 8 

Ekron, J. Akirf Josh. xiii. 3 ; xv. 11, 45, 46 ; xix. 43 ; 

Judges i. 18; 1 Sam. v. 10, 10; vi. 16, 17; vii. 14; 

xvii. 52, 52 ; 2 Kings i. 2, 3, 6, 16 ; Jer. xxv. 20 ; Amos 

i. 8 ; Zeph. ii. 4; Zech. ix. 5, 7 

El-Bethel, Gen. xxxv. 7 

El-Elohe-Israel, Gen. xxxiii. 20 

El-Paran, Gen. xiv. 6* 

Elah, Valley of, Wady Sumt? 1 Sam. xvii. 2, 19 ; xxi. 9... 
Elam (Elymais), Liiristdn, Gen. xiv. 1, 9; Isaiah xi. 11; 

xxi. 2; xxii. 6; Jer. xxv. 25; xlix. 38; Daniel viii. 2.. 
Elam, "the other," Neh. vii. 34. 

Elath (JElana), 'Akabah, Deut. ii. 8; 2 Kings xiv. 22; 

xvi. 6, 6, 6 

Elealeh, R. Al Eleale, Numb, xxxii. 3, 37 ; Isaiah xv. 4 ; 

xvi. 9 ; Jer. xlviii. 34 

Eleph, B. Josh, xviii. 28 

Elim, Wady Gliurundel, Exod. xv. 27 ; xvi. 1, 1 ; Numb. 

xxxiii. 9, 9, 10 

Elim. See Beer-Elim. 

Elishah, Coasts of Asia Minor, Ezek. xxvii. 7 

Ellasar (Assyria?), Gen. xiv. 1, 9 

Elon, Josh. xix. 43 

Elon-Beth-Hanan, Elon? 1 Kings iv. 9 

Eloth, Elath (iElana), 'Akabah, 1 Kings ix. 26; 2 Kings 

xvi. 6;f 2 Chron. viii. 17; xxvi. 2 

Eltekeh, L.D. Tookrairf Josh. xix. 44; xxi. 23 

Eltekon, J. Josh. xv. 59 

Eltolad, S. Josh. xv. 30 ; xix. 4 

Emims, Gen. xiv. 5 ; Deut. ii. 10, 11 

Emmaus, Luke xxiv. 13 

En-Eglaim, Eglaim? Ezek. xlvii. 10 

En-Gannim, J. Josh. xv. 34 

En-Gannim, L.Z. (Gingea), Jenin, Josh. xix. 21; xxi. 29.... 
En-Gedi, J. 'Ain Jidy, Josh. xv. 62 ; 1 Sam. xxiii. 29 ; 

xxiv. 1 ; 2 Chron. xx. 2 ; Song of Sol. i. 14 ; Ezek. 

xlvii. 10 

En-Haddah, I. Hadad-Rimmon ? (Maximianopolis ?), Josh. 

xix. 21 



N. Lat. E. Long 



28 C 



3 I 50 

31 56 

32 15 

31 o 

3 1 43 



34 5 1 

35 18 
35 l 9 
34 5° 
34 5 6 



33 3° 48 o 



29 


33 


35 





3 1 


4 8 


35 


53 


3 1 


48 


35 


1 1 


29 


20 


33 





38 


O 


27 





36 


O 


44 





3 1 


48 


34 


55 


3 1 


48 


34 


55 


29 


33 


35 





3 1 


44 


34 


39 


3 1 


44 


35 


4 


3 1 


10 


34 


59 


3 1 


40 


36 





3 1 


5 1 


35 




l l 


20 


35 


5° 


3 1 


43 


35 


4 


32 


28 


35 


22 


3 1 


28 


35 


28 


3 2 


34 


35 


10 



* El Paran, Gen. xiv. 6, may be "entrance" or the "opening" the " threshold," of Paran, El being 

translated in Ezek. xli. 3, posts (of the door), as elsewhere, also, ' : lintel," 1 Kings vi. 31. 
f In Hebrew, but in English trans. Elath. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



565 



Ex-Hakkore, Judges xv. 19 

Ex-Hazor, N. Josh. xix. 37 

Ex-Mishpat, Gen. xiv. 7* 

Ex-Rimmox, Rimmon ? Neh. xi. 29 

Ex-Rogel, Fountain of Job, or NehemiaJi, Josh. xv. 7 ; 

xviii. 16 ; 2 Sam. xvii. 17 : 1 Kings i. 9 

En-Shemesh, B. Josh. xv. 7 ; xviii. 17 

Ex-Tappuah, Tappuah, Josh. xvii. 7 

Exam, Josh. xv. 34 

Exax. See Hazar-Enan. 

Exdor, M. Endor, Josh. xvii. 11 ; 1 Sam. xxviii. 7 ; Psalm 
lxxxiii. 10 

Ephes-Dammim, J. 1 Sam. xvii. 1 

Ephesus, Aiasaluk, Acts xviii. 19, 21. 24 ; xix. 1, 17, 26, 
35: xx. 16, 17; 1 Cor. xv. 32: xvi. 8; Eph. i. 1; 

1 Tim. i. 3 ; 2 Tim. i. 18; iv. 12; Rev. i. 11; ii. 1...... 

Ephraim, Judges viii. 2; xii. 15 ; 2 Sam. xiii. 23; xviii. 6; 

2 Chron. xxxi. 1 

Ephraim, John xi. 54, Taiyibeh? 

Ephraim, "Mount," Josh. xvii. 15: xix. 50; xx. 7: xxi. 

21 : xxiv. 30, 33 : Judges ii. 9 ; iii. 27 ; iv. 5 : vii. 24 : 

x. 1 ; xvii. 1, 8 : xviii. 2, 13 ; xix. 1, 16, 18 ; 1 Sam. i. 

1 ; ix. 4 ; xiv. 22 : 2 Sam. xx. 21 ; 1 Kings iv. 8 : xii. 

25 ; 2 Kings v. 22 ; 1 Chron. vi. 67 ; 2 Chron. xiii. 4 : 

xv. 8 ; xix. 4; Jer. iv. 15 ; xxxi. 6 ; 1. 19 

Ephraix, Ephraim? 2 Chron. xiii. 19..., 

Ephratah. Ephrath, Bethlehem, Beit LaJim, Gen. xxxv. 16, 

19 : xlviii. 7, 7 ; Ruth iv. 11 ; 1 Chron. ii. 24 ; Psalm 

cxxxii. 6 ; Micah v. 2 

Ephrox, Mount, Josh. xv. 9 

Erech, Irak, or Irkd, Gen. x. 10 

Esek, Gen. xxvi. 20 

Eshcol, Brook or Yalley of, Numb. xiii. 23, 24; xxxii. 9; 

Deut. i. 24 

Esheax, J. Josh. xv. 52 

Eshtaol, D. Josh. xv. 33 ; xix. 41 ; Judges xiii. 25 ; xvi. 

31; xviii. 2, 8, 11 

Eshtemoa, L.J. or Eshtemoh, Es-Semil'a, Josh. xv. 50 ; xxi. 

14 : 1 Sam. xxx. 28 ; 1 Chron. iv. 17, 19 ; vi. 57 

Etam, J. Judges xv. 8, 11 ; 1 Chron. iv. 3, 32; 2 Chron. xi. 6. 

Etham, Exod. xiii. 20 ; Numb, xxxiii. 6, 7 

Etham, Wilderness of, Numb, xxxiii. 8 

Ether, S. Etam? Josh. xv. 42: xix. 7 

Ethiopia, Cush (^Ethiopia), Nubia and Abyssinia, Gen. ii. 

13; 2 Kings xix. 9; Esther i. 1; viii. 9; Job xxviii. 

19; Psalm lxviii. 31; lxxxvii. 4 ; Isaiah xi. 11; xviii. 

1 ; xx. 3, 5 ; xxxvii. 9 ; xliii. 3 ; xiv. 14 ; Ezek. xxix. 

10 ; xxx. 4, 5 ; xxxviii. 5 ; Nahum iii. 9 : Zeph. iii. 10. 
Euphrates, River, Frat, Gen. ii. 14: xv. 18; Deut. i. 7; xi. 

24; Josh. i. 4; 2 Sam. viii. 3; 2 Kings xxiii. 29; xxiv. 

7; 1 Chron. v. 9; xviii. 3; 2 Chron. xxxv. 20; Jer. 

xiii. 4, 5, 6, 7 ; xlvi. 2, 6, 10 : li. 63 ; Rev. ix. 14 ; xvi. 

12 



N. 


Lat. 


E. Long. 


3 1 


°3°' 


34°4i / 


3 2 


57 


35 3 2 


3 1 


o 


35 10 


3 1 


26 


34 54 


3 1 




35 l 9 


3 1 


47 


35 2 1 


3 2 


l 5 


35 3° 


3 1 


44 


35 2 


3 2 


39 


35 2 5 


3 1 


40 


34 59 


37 


55 


27 20 


3 2 


2 


35 16 


3 1 


58 


35 22 



3 2 





35 10 


3 2 


2 


35 16 


3 1 


41 


35 *9 


3 1 


48 


35 7 


3 1 


2 2 


45 5° 


3 1 


2 3 


34 43 


3 1 


3 2 


35 10 


3 1 


29 


35 4 


3i 


44 


34 57 


3 1 


2 5 


35 12 


3 1 


2 7 


34 46 


30 


12 


32 18 


29 


5° 


3 2 45 


3 1 


2 7 


34 46 



16 



35 



35 4o 3° 



* En-Mishpat. Gen. xiv. 7. might be translated Fountain of Judgment, in reference to Aaron in 
Mt. Hor. See Xumbers xx. ; where the origin of the name is given. 



566 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Ezel, 1 Sam. xx. 19 

Ezel. See Beth-Ezel. 

Ezem, Azmon, or Azem? 1 Chron. iv. 29. 

Ezion-Geber (aft. Berenice), Numb, xxxiii. 35, 36 ; Deut. 

ii. 8 ; 1 Kings ix. 26 ; xxii. 48 ; 2 Chron. viii. 17 ; xx. 

36 



I N. Lat. 

' 3*°54' 



29 33 



Flock, Tower of. See Tower of Edar. 
Foreskins, Hill of the. Marg. Gibeah-Haaraloth, Josh, 
v. 3. 



Gaash, Hill of, Josh. xxiv. 30 ; Judges ii. 9 

Gaash, Brooks of, Nalir el-Avjehf 2 Sam. xxiii. 30; 1 

Chron. xi. 32 

Gaba, L.B. See Geba 

Gabbatha, at Jerusalem, John xix. 13. 
Gad. See Baal-Gad. 
Gad. See Migdal-Gad. 

Gadarenes, Country of (Gadara), Um-Keis, Mark v. 1 ; 

Luke viii. 26, 3*7 

Gaddah. See Hazar-Gaddah. 
Gader. See Beth-Gader. 

Galatia, Anatolia and Bourn, parts of, Acts xvi. 6 ; xviii. 



23 ; 1 Cor. xvi. 1 ; Gal. i. 2 ; 2 Timothy iv. 10 ; 1 Pet. 

i. 1 

Galeed, Gen. xxxi. 47, 48. 

Galilee (Galilsea), Josh. xx. 7; xxi. 32; 1 Kings ix. 11; 

2 Kings xv. 29 ; 1 Chron. vi. 76 ; Isaiah ix. 1 ; Matt. 

ii. 22; iii. 13 ; iv. 12, 15, 18, 23, 25 ; xv. 29; xvii. 22; 
xix. 1 ; xxi. 11 ; xxvi. 32, 69 ; xxvii. 55 ; xxviii. 7, 10, 
16 ; Mark i. 9, 14, 16, 28, 39 ; iii. 7 ; vi. 21 ; vii. 31 ; 
ix. 30 ; xiv. 28 ; xv. 41 ; xvi. 7 ; Luke i. 26 ; ii. 4, 39 ; 

iii. 1; iv. 14, 31, 44; v. 17; viii. 26; xvii. 11; xxiii. 
5, 6, 49, 55 ; xxiv. 6 ; John i. 43 ; ii. 1, 11 ; iv. 3, 43, 
45, 46, 47, 54; vi. 1; vii. 1, 9, 41, 52, 52 ; xii. 21; 
xxi. 2 ; Acts i. 11 ; v. 37 ; ix. 31 ; x. 37 ; xiii. 31 

Gallim, B. 1 Sam. xxv. 44 ; Isaiah x. 30 

Gamul. See Beth-Gamul. 
Gannim. See En-Gannim. 

Gareb, Jer. xxxi. 39 

Gath, Josh. xi. 22; 1 Sam. v. 8; vi. 17; vii. 14; xvii. 4, 
23, 52; xxi. 10, 12; xxvii. 2, 3, 4, 11; 2 Sam. i. 20: 
xv. 18 ; xxi. 20, 22 ; 1 Kings ii. 39, 40, 40, 41 ; 2 Kings 
xii. 17; 1 Chron. vii. 21; viii. 13; xviii. 1; xx. 6, 8; 
2 Chron. xi. 8; xxvi. 6; Psalm lvi. title; Amos vi. 2; 
Micah i. 10 

Gath. See Moresheth-Gath. 

Gath-Hepher, Z. or Gittah-Hepher, El-Meshhad, Josh. xix. 

13 ; 2 Kings xiv. 25 

Gath-Rimmon, L.D. Deir Dubbdn? Josh. xix. 45 ; xxi. 24, 

25; 1 Chron. vi. 69 

Gaza, Gazah, Azzah (Gaza), Ghuzzeh, Gen. x. 19 ; Deut. 

ii. 23; Josh. x. 41 ; xi. 22; xv. 47; Judges i. 18; vi. 

4; xvi. 1, 21 : 1 Sam. vi. 17 ; 1 Kings iv. 24 ; 2 Kings 



32 5 

32 6 
32 22 



32 37 



40 o 
32 32 



33 
31 51 



3 1 47 



3 1 47 



31 41 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



567 



xviii. 8; 1 Chron. vii. 28; Jer. xxv. 20; xlvii. 1, 5; 

Amos i. 6, 7 ; Zeph. ii. 4; Zech. ix. 5, 5 

Gazer, L.E. Gezer (Gazara), Josh. x. 33; xii. 12; xvi. 3. 

10 : xxi. 21 : Judges i. 29, 29 ; 2 Sam. v. 25 ; 1 Kin^s 

ix. 15, 16, 17 ; 1 Chron. vi. 67 ; vii. 28 ; xiv. 16 ; xx. 4. 
Geba, L.B. or Gaba, Josh, xviii. 24; xxi. 17; 1 Sam. xiii. 

3 ; 2 Sam. v. 25 ; 1 Kings xv. 22 ; 2 Kings xxiii. 8 ; 

1 Chron. vi. 60; viii. 6; 2 Chron. xvi. 6;* Ezra ii. 26; 

Neh. vii. 30 ; xi. 31 ; xii. 29 ; Isaiah x. 29 ; Zech. xiv. 

10 

Gebal (Gebalene), Jebdl, Psalm lxxxiii. 7 

Gebal (Byblus), Jebeil, Ezek. xxvii. 9 

Geber. See Ezion-Geber. 

Gebim, J. Isaiah x. 31 

Geder, J. Gedor? Jedtir, Josh. xii. 13 

Gederah, J. Josh. xv. 36 

Gederoth, Josh. xv. 41 ; 2 Chron. xxviii. 18 

Gederothaim, J. Josh. xv. 36 

Gedi. See En-Gedi. 

Gedor. Jedur, Josh. xv. 58 ; 1 Chron. iv. 39 ; xii. 7 

Gennesaret, Land of, El-Ghuiveir, Matt. xiv. 34; Mark vi. 

53 . 

Gennesaret, Lake of (Lake of Tiberias), Balir Tuba-} 

rvyeh, Luke v. 1 J 

Gerar, Khirbet el-Gerar, Gen. x. 19; xx. 1, 2: xxvi. 1, 6, 

17, 20, 26 ; 2 Chron. xiv. 13, 14..... 

Gergesenes, or Gadarenes, Matt. viii. 28 

Gerizim, Mount, Jebel et-Ttir, Deut. xi. 29 ; xxvii. 12; Josh. 

viii. 33 ; Judges ix. 7 

Geshur, 2 Sam. iii. 3 ; xiii. 37, 38 ; xiv. 23, 32 ; xv. 8 ; 

1 Chron. ii. 23 ; iii. 2 

Geshuri, Josh. xiii. 2. 

Geshurites, Josh. xiii. 11, 13, 13 

Geshurites, 1 Sam. xxvii. 8 

Gethsem ane, Matt. xxvi. 36 ; Mark xiv. 32 

Gezer. See Gazer. 

Gezrites, 1 Sam. xxvii. 8 

Giah, 2 Sam. ii. 24 

Gibbar ? Gibeon ? which see, Ezra ii. 20. 

Gibbethon, D. Josh. xix. 44 ; xxi. 23 ; 1 Kings xv. 27, 27 : 

xvi. 15, 17 , 

Gibe ah, J. (Gabatha), Jeb'ah, Josh. xv. 57 

Gibeau, E. Jibia, Josh. xxiv. 33 (in the Hebrew) 

Gibeah, B. "the Hill," or Gibeath, Jeba, Josh. xv. 57; 
xviii. 28 ; Judges xix. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 ; xx. 4, 5, 9, 
10, 13, 14, 15. 19, 20, 21, 25, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 37, 
43 ; 1 Sam. x. 26 ; xi. 4 ; xiii. 2, 15, 16 ; xiv. 2, 5, 16 ; 
xv. 34; xxii. 6; xxiii. 19; xxvi. 1; 2 Sam. vi. 3, 4; 
xxi. 6; xxiii. 29; 1 Chron. xi. 31; 2 Chron. xiii. 2; 

Isaiah x. 29 ; Hosea v. 8 ; ix. 9 ; x. 9, 9 

Gibeox, L.B. El-Jib, Josh. ix. 3, 17 ; x. 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 10, 
12, 41 : xi. 19 ; xviii. 25 ; xxi. 17 ; 2 Sam. ii. 12, 13, 



16, 24; iii. 30; xx. 



1 Kings iii. 4, 5 ; ix. 2 ; 



N. Lat. 
3 I°26 / 

31 56 



32 22 

30 50 

34 8 

31 50 
3 1 37 
3 1 39 
3 1 35 
3 1 44 

31 39 

32 53 
3 2 54 
32 42 

31 20 

3 2 45 

32 14 

33 7 

33 10 

31 15 

3 1 46 

31 10 

3 1 5 1 



3* 45 
31 42 

3 1 59 



R. Long. 

34° 2 9 / 
35 3 



35 18 
35 45 
35 3 7 

35 18 
35 13 
34 57 
34 5 6 

34 58 

35 6 

35 3 3 
35 4° 
35 3 2 

34 3 1 

35 45 

35 2 1 
35 4 2 

35 45 

34 2 5 

35 l 9 

34 2 5 

35 18 



34 5 2 

35 5 
35 18 



31 51 



35 



*Gebah 



5G8 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



1 Chron. viii. 29, 29 ; ix. 35, 35 ; xiv. 16 ; xvi. 39 ; xxi. 
29 ; 2 Chron. i. 3, 13 ; Neh. iii. 7 ; vii. 25 ; Isaiah 
xxviii. 21 ; Jer. xxviii. 1 ; xli. 12, 16 

Giblites, Josh. xiii. 5 ; [1 Kings v. 18 in Hebrew] 

Gidom, B. Judges xx. 45 

Gihon, River (Araxes?) Aras? Gen. ii. 13 

Gihon, Upper Pool of Gihon, 1 Kings i. 33, 38, 45 ; 2 Chron. 
xxxii. 30 ; xxxiii. 14 

Gilboa, Mount, I. Jebel Fuhil'a, 1 Sam. xxviii. 4 ; xxxi. 1, 
8 ; 2 Sam. i. 6, 21 ; xxi. 12 ; 1 Chron. x. 1, 8 

Gilead (Galaaditis), Jebel Ajlun and El-Belka, part of, 
Gen. xxxi. 21, 23, 25 ; xxxvii. 25 ; Numb, xxxii. 1, 26, 
29, 39, 40; Deut. ii. 36; iii. 10, 12, 13, 15, 16 ; iv. 43; 
xxxiv. 1 ; Josh. xii. 2, 5 ; xiii. 11, 25, 31 ; xvii. 1, 1, 5, 
6; xx. 8; xxi. 38; xxii. 9, 13, 15, 32; Judges vii. 3; 

x. 4, 8, 17, 18, 18 ; xi. 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 29, 29, 29 ; 

xii. 4. 4, 5, 7: xx. 1; xxi. 8 * 9,* 10 * 12*, 14;* 1 Sam. 

xi. 1,* 9 ;* xiii. 7 ; xxxi. 11 ;* 2 Sam. ii. 4,* 5,* 9 ; xvii. 
26; xxi. 12;* xxiv. 6; 1 Kings iv. 13, 19; xvii. 1; 
xxii. 3 ; x. 33, 33 ; xv. 29 ; 1 Chron. ii. 22 ; v. 9, 10, 
16; vi. 80; xxvi. 31; xxvii. 21; Psalm lx. 7; cviii. 8; 
Song of Sol. iv. 1 ; vi. 5 ; Jer. viii. 22; xxii. 6; xlvi. 
11 ; 1. 19; Ezek. xlvii. 18; Hosea vi. 8; xii. 11; Amos 
i. 3, 13 ; Obadiah 19 ; Micah vii. 14 ; Zech. x. 10 

Gilgal? Josh. iv. 19, 20; v. 9, 10; ix. 6 ; x. 6, 7, 9, 15, 
43 ; xiv. 6 ; xv. 7 ; Judges ii. 1 ; iii. 19 ; 1 Sam. vii. 
16 ; x. 8 ; xi. 14, 15, 15 ; xiii. 4, 7, 8, 12, 15 ; xv. 12, 
21,33; 2 Sam. xix. 15,40; 2 Kings iv. 38; Hosea iv.15; 
ix. 15 ; xii. 11 ; Amos iv. 4 ; v. 5, 5 ; Micah vi. 5 

Gilgal (Galgala), JiJjilia, Deut. xi. 30 : Josh. xii. 23; 

2 Kings ii. 1 

Gilgal, "House of," Neh. xii. 29 

Giloh, J. Josh. xv. 51 ; 2 Sam. xv. 12 

Gimzo, J. Jimzu, 2 Chron. xxviii. 18 

Girgashite, Gen. x. 16 ; xv. 21 ; Deut. vii. 1 ; Josh. iii. 10; 

xxiv. 11; 1 Chron. i. 14; Neh. ix. 8 

Gittite, Josh. xiii. 3 ; 2 Sam. vi. 10, 11 ; xv. 18, 19, 22 ; 

xviii. 2; xxi. 19 ; 1 Chron. xiii. 13 ; xx. 5 

Gittah-IIepher, or Gath-Hepher, El-Meshhad, Josh. xix. 13. 

Gittaim, B. 2 Sam. iv. 3 ; Neh. xi. 33 

Goath, Jer. xxxi. 39 j 

Gob, 2 Sam. xxi. 18, 19 1 

Gog. See Hamon-Gog. 

Golan, M-. (Gaulonitis), Jauldn, Deut. iv. 43 : Josh. xx. 

8; xxi. 27; 1 Chron. vi. 71 .' 

Golgotha, Church of the Holy Sepulchre? Matt, xxvii. 33 ; 

Mark xv. 22 ; John xix. 17... 

Gomorrah, Gen. x. 19 ; xiii. 10 ; xiv. 2, 8, 10, 11 ; xviii. 20; i 

xix. 24, 28 ; Deut. xxix. 23 ; xxxii. 32 ; Isaiah i. 9, 10 ; ' 

xiii. 19 ; Jer. xxiii. 14 ; xlix. 18 ; 1. 40 : Amos iv. 11 ; 
Zeph. ii. 9 ; Matt. x. 15 ; Mark vi. 11 ; Romans ix. 29 ; 
2 Pet. ii. 6 ; Jude 7 

Goshen, Esh-Shurldyeh, Gen. xiv. 10 ; xlvi. 28, 28, 29, 34 ; 
xlvii. 1, 4, 6, 27 ; 1. 8 ; Exod. viii. 22 ; ix. 26 



N. Lat. 


E. 


Long. 


i' c 


5 J' 


35 


3 i6 / 


34 


8 


35 


37 


3 1 


54 


35 


20 


39 


o 


45 


35 


3 1 


46 


35 


18 


3- 


3 2 


35 


2 3 



32 20 



35 5° 



3 1 


5° 


35 


3 2 


3 2 


4 


35 


l 7 


3 1 


5° 


35 


3 1 


3 1 


26 


35 


9 


3 1 


56 


35 





3 2 


43 


35 


40 


3 1 


47 


34 


5 2 


3 2 


*7 


35 


14 


3 1 


54 


35 




3 1 


47 


35 


18 


3 1 


56 


35 


5 


33 





35 


5c 


3 1 


46 


35 


18 



3 1 45 

30 30 



35 3° 
31 40 



* Jabesh-gilead. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



>69 



Goshen, Josh. x. 41 ; xi. 16 ; xv. 51 

Gozan, River of (R.Gyndes?), R. Shirwdn? 2 Kings xvii. 6; 

xviii. 11 ; xix. 12 ; 1 Chron. v. 26 ; Isaiah xxxvii. 12.,. 
Greece, Grecia (Grsecia), Greece, Daniel viii. 21; x. 20; xi. 

2; Zech. ix. 13; Acts xx. 2 

Gudgodah, 'Ain el-Ghudiydnf Deut. x. 7, 7 

Gur, 2 Kings ix. 27 

Gur-baal, 2 Chron. xxvi. 7 

Haamonai. See Cephar-Haammonai. 

Habor (Chaboras?), Abliar? 2 Kings xvii. 6; xviii. 11; 

1 Chron. v. 26 

Hachilah, Hill of, 1 Sam. xxiii. 19 ; xxvi. 1,3 

Hadad-rimmon (Maximianopolis?), Zech. xii. 11 

Hadashah, J. Josh. xv. 37 

Hadattah. See Hazor-Hadattah. 
Haddah. See En-Haddah. 

Hadid, Ezra ii. 33 ; Neh. vii. 37 ; xi. 34 ; (in some copies 
Harid.) 

Hadrach (Coele-Syria?), Zech. ix. 1 

Hagidgad. See Hor-hagidgad. 
Hai. See Ai. 

Hal ah (Chala, aft. Hoi wan?), Sar Puli-Zohab? 2 Kings 
xvii. 6 ; xviii. 11 ; 1 Chron. v. 26 

Halhul, J. HulhiU, Josh. xv. 58 

Hali, A. Josh. xix. 25 

Ham, Gen. xiv. 5 

Hamath (Epiphania), Hannah, Numb. xiii. 21 ; xxxiv. 8 ; 
Josh. xiii. 5 ; Judges iii. 3 ; 2 Sam. viii. 9 ; 1 Kings 
viii. 65 ; 2 Kings xiv. 25, 28 ; xvii. 24, 30 ; xviii. 34 ; 

xix. 13 : xxiii. 33 ; xxv. 21 ; 1 Chron. xiii. 5 ;* xviii. 3, 
9; 2 Chron. vii. 8; viii. 3,f 4; Isaiah x. 9; xi. 11; 
xxxvi. 19 ; xxxvii. 13 ; Jer. xxxix. 5 ; xlix. 23 ; lii. 9, 
27 ; Ezek. xlvii. 16, 16, 17, 20 ; xlviii. 1, 1 ; Amos vi. 
2, 14 ; Zech. ix. 2 

Hamathite, Gen. x. 18 ; 1 Chron. i. 16 

Hammath, L.N. (Emmaus), Hiimmdm, Josh. xix. 35 

Hammon, Josh. xix. 28 : 1 Chron. vi. 76 

Hammoth-Dor, L.N. or Hammath? Josh. xxi. 32 

Hamon. See Baal-Hamon. 
Hamon-Gog, Ezek. xxxix. 11, 15. 
Hamonah, Ezek. xxxix. 16. 
Hanan. See Elon-Beth-Hanan. 

Hananeel, Tower of, in Jerusalem, Neh. iii. 1 ; xii. 39 ; 

Jer. xxxi. 38 ; Zech. xiv. 10. 
Hanes, or Tahapanes? (Daphnae?), Tel Defenneli, Isaiah 

xxx. 4 

Hannathon, Z. Josh. xix. 14 

Hapharaim, I. Josh. xix. 19 

Haradah, Numb, xxxiii. 24, 25 

Haran (Charrse), Harran, Gen. xi. 31, 32; xii. 4, 5 ; xxvii. 



34 4o 45 3° 



3« o 

29 51 
32 36 

30 30 



36 22 

31 30 

r- 34 

3 1 33 



34 



34 3 6 
3 1 34 
33 
31 58 



35 13 

34 5° 

3 2 45 

3 3 2 5 

3 2 47 



3° 53 

3 2 5 l 

32 36 

30 o 



35 3° 
35 12 
35 



49 2 
35 18 
35 10 
34 52 



36 



40 5 
35 J 5 

35 12 

36 o 



36 39 
36 30 
3 5 34 
35 2 7 
35 34 



32 3 
35 20 
35 16 
34 o 



* Hemath in English trans, without any authority, as the points are the same in the Hebrew as 
in other places. f H.-zobah. 

36* 



•370 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



! N. Lat. | E. Long. 

43 ; xxviii. 10 : xxix. 4 ; 2 Kings xix. 12 ; Isaiah 



xxxvii. 12: Ezek. xxvii. 23 3 6 °5 2/ 39°3° c 

Haran. See Beth-Haran. 
Hareseth. See Kirharaseth. 
Hareseth. See Kirliaresetli. 
Haresh. See Kir-Haresh. 
Haresha. See Tel-Haresha. 

Hareth, Forest of, J. 1 Sam. xxii. 5 , 31 40 35 3 

Harod, Well of, 'Ain Jalud, Judges vii. 1 32 34 35^3 

"Harosheth of the Gextiles," Judges iv. 2, 13, 16 33 4 35 34 

Harsa. See Tel-Harsa. 

Hashmoxah, Numb, xxxiii. 29, 30 30 20 33 30 

Hattaayah. See Kibroth-Hattaavah. 
Hatticox. See Hazar-Hatticon. 

Haurax (Auranitis), Haurdn, Ezek. xlvii. 16, 18 J 3 2 5° I 3^ 

(I 32 20 36 40 

Havilah, Armenia, part of? Gen. 11. 11 41 o 42 o 

Havilah, Gen. xxv. 18; 1 Sam. xv. 7 31 o 34 35 

Hazar-addar, or Adar, Numb, xxxiv. 4 30 47 34 44 

Hazar-exax, Xuinb. xxxiv. 9, 10 ; Ezek. xlvii. 17 : • 

xlviii. 1 : 33 20 36 o 

Hazar-gaddah, J. or Hazar-Addar ? Josh. xv. 27 30 47 34 44 

Hazar-hatticox, Ezek. xlvii. 16 32 45 36 20 

Hazar-shual, Josh. xv. 28 ; xix. 3 ; 1 Chron. iv. 28 ; Neh. j 

». 27 31 21 34 46 

Hazar-susah, S. Josh. xix. 5 31 30 3444 

Hazar-susim, S. or Hazar-Susah? 1 Chron. iv. 31 31 30 34 44 

Hazazox-tamar, J. Hazezon-Tamar, or Engedi, 'Ain Jidy, 

Gen. xiv. 7 : 2 Chron. xx. 2* j 31 28 | 35 28 

Hazeriji, Deut. ii. 23 31 10 34 3c 

Hazeroth, 'Ain el-Hudhera ? Xumb. xi. 35, 35; xii. 16 ; j 

xxxiii. 17, 18; Deut. i. 1 28 51 34 28 

Hazor, N. Josh. xi. 1, 10, 10, 11, 13; xii. 19: xix. 36: 

Judges iv. 2. 17 : 1 Sam. xii. 9 : 1 Kings ix. 15 : 

2 Kings xiv. 29 : Jer. xlix. 28, 30, 33f '. 3255 35 25 

Hazor, B. Neh. xi. 33 31 55 35 10 

Hazor, J. Yasur, Josh. xv. 23 31 42 34 43 

Hazor. See Baal-Hazor. 
Hazor. See En-Hazor. 

Hazor-Hadattah, J. Josh. xv. 25 1 31 13 35 11 

Hazzurm. See Helkath-Hazzurim. 



Hebron. ElrKhdlU, Gen. xiii. 18 : xxiii. 2, 19 ; xxxv. 27 ; 
xxxvii. 14: Xumb. xiii. 22, 22: Josh. x. 3. 5, 23, 36, 
39: xi. 21: xii. 10: xiv. 13, 14. 15; xv. 13. 54: xx. 
7: xxi. 11. 13: Judges i. 10. 10. 20: xvi. 3: 1 Sam. 
xxx. 31 : 2 Sam. ii. 1. 3, 11. 32 : iii. 2. 5. 19. 20. 22, 
27, 32 : iv. 1, 8, 12, 12; v. 1, 3. 3, 5, 13 : xv. 7, 9, 10 



* Hazezon-taniar in Gen. xiv. 7, bnt in 2 Chron. xx. 2 it is Hazazon-taniar. These names 
should be reversed. In Gen. xiv. 7. the word has (sheva pattah) a, and in Chron. e ' sheva simply"). 
The vowel is therefore wroni in both places. See the usual Hebrew text. I find the Masoreth con- 
sider the name in Gen. defective in the Hebrew, but right in Chron. v. Purver, Crit. Trans, of Old 
and New Testament, folio, 2 vols.. London. 1764. 

f There is another Hazor at Hazury. not far from Banias. at the head of the Jordan, where ruins 
indicate a great fortification. Ritter thinks this is the Hazor. — Erd'.unde. 

% In the English trans. Hazor and Iladattah are so punctuated as to read as two places. The 
pi obabilities are that they should be read together as above. There were several Hazors. Hadath, 
in Chaldee, signifies " new." Perhaps this was - Xew Hazor/' 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



571 



1 Kings ii. 11 ; 1 Chron. iii. 1, 4; vi. 55, 57 ; xi. 1, 3, 
3 ; xii. 23, 38 ; xxix. 27 ; 2 Chron. xi. 10 | 

Hebron, or Abdon? Josh. xix. 28 i 

Helam, 2 Sam. x. 16, 17 

Helbah, A. Judges i. 31 

Helbon (Chalybon, or Beroea), Helbon, Ezek. xxvii. 18 

Heleph, N. Josh. xix. 33 j 

Helkath, L.A. Josh. xix. 25 : xxi. 31..... I 

Helkath-Hazzurim, 2 Sam. ii. 16 j 

Hena (Anatho?), Anahf 2 Kings xviii. 34; xix. 13; Isaiah | 

xxxvii. 13... 

Hepher, Josh. xii. 17 ; 1 Kings iv. 10 

Hepher. See Gath-Hepher. 

Heres, Mount, Judges i. 35 

Heres. See Kirheres. 
Heres. See Timnath-Heres. 

Her mox, Mount, Jebel esh- Sheikh, Deut. iii. 8, 9 ; iv. 48 ; 

Josh. xi. 3, 17 ; xii. 1, 5 ; xiii. 5, 11 ; 1 Chron. v. 23 ; 

Ps. Ixxxix. 12 ; cxxxiii. 3 ; Song of Sol. iv. 8 

Hermox, L.C. See Baal-Hermon. 

Heshbox, Eesbdn, Numb. xxi. 25, 26. 27, 28, 30, 34; xxxii. 

3, 37 ; Deut. i. 4 ; ii. 24. 26, 30: iii. 2, 6 ; iv. 46 ; xxix. 

7 ; Josh. ix. 10; xii. 2, 5; xiii. 10, 17, 21, 26, 27 ; xxi. 

39 ; Judges xi. 19, 26 ; 1 Chron. vi. 81 ; Neh. ix. 22; 

Song of Sol. vii. 4 ; Isaiah xv. 4 ; xvi. 8, 9 ; Jer. xlviii. 

2, 34, 45, 45 ; xlix. 3 

Heshmon, J. Josh. xv. 27 

Hethlon, Ezek. xlvii. 15 ; xlviii. 1 

Hezron, Josh. xv. 3, 25 

Hiddekel, River (Tigris), Tigris, Gen. ii. 14; Dan. x. 4 

Hierapolis, Pambouk-Kaleh, Cul. iv. 13 

Hilex, J. or Holon, 1 Chron. vi. 58 

Hill of Foreskins, Josh. v. 3. 

Hinnom. See Valley of Slaughter, and Tophet. 

Hittites, Gen. xv. 20; xxiii. 10: xxv. 9; xxvi. 34, 34; 

xxxvi. 2 ; xlix. 29, 30; 1. 13 ; Exod. iii. 8, 17; xiii. 5; 

xxiii. 23, 28 ; xxxiii. 2 ; xxxiv. 11 ; Numb. xiii. 29 ; 
Deut. vii. 1 ; xx. 17 ; Josh. i. 4 ; iii. 10 ; ix. 1 ; xi. 3 ; 

xii. 8 ; xxiv. 11 ; Judges i. 26 : iii. 5 ; 1 Sam. xxvi. 6; 

2 Sam. xi. 3, 6, 17, 21, 24; xii. 9, 10: xxiii. 39; 
1 Kings ix. 20 ; x. 29 ; xi. 1 ; xv. 5 ; 2 Kings vii. 6 ; 
1 Chron. xi. 41 ; 2 Chron. i. 17 ; viii. 7 ; Ezra ix. 1 ; Neh. 
ix. 8 ; Ezek. xvi. 3, 45 

Hivites, Gen. x. 17 ; xxxiv. 2 ; xxxvi. 2 ; Exod. iii. 8, 17 ; 

xiii. 5 ; xxiii. 23, 28 ; xxxiii. 2 ; xxxiv. 11 ; Deut. vii. 
1; xx. 17; Josh. iii. 10; ix. 1, 7; xi. 3, 19; xii. 8; 

xxiv. 11 ; Judges iii. 3, 5 ; 2 Sam. xxiv. 7 ; 1 Kings ix. 
20 ; 1 Chron. i. 15 ; 2 Chron. viii. 7 

Hobah, Gen. xiv. 15 , 

Hodshi. See Tahtim-hodshi. 
Hoglah. See Beth-Hogiah. 

Holox, J. Josh. xv. 51 ; xxi. 15 ; Jer. xlviii. 21 

Hor, Mount, Jebel Neby Hdrun, Numb. xx. 22, 23, 25, 27 ; 

xxi. 4 ; xxxiii. 37, 38, 39, 41 : Deut. xxxii. 50 

Hor, Mount Hermon? Numb, xxxiv. 7, 8 

Hor-Hagidgad, or Gudgodah? Numb, xxxiii. 32, 33 



N. 


Lat. 


I E. ] 


-<ong. 


3« 




35 




33 


16 


35 


2 7 


34 


2 O 


37 


30 


33 


2 I 


35 


2 5 


33 


4 


37 


20 


33 


1 3 


35 


36 


33 


4 


35 


1 2 


3 1 


5 1 


35 


1 1 


34 


28 


42 





3 1 


29 


35 





3 1 


55 


35 


3 



33 l 7 



31 46 

31 17 
33 3 1 35 39 
3° 45 35 

32 34 46 o 

37 55 : 29 15 

31 23 j 35 9 



31 27 



32 1 



35 10 
33 2 5 I 3 6 
33 45 ! 3 6 »9 



3 1 


23 


35 


9 


30 


-7 


35 


26 


33 


•7 


35 


36 


29 


5° 


3 5 


5 



572 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Horeb, Jebel et-Tur, Exod. iii. 1 ; xvii. 6 ; xxxiii. 6 ; Deut. 

i. 2, 6, 19 ; iv. 10, 15 ; v. 2 ; ix. 8 ; xviii. 16 ; xxix. 1 : 

1 Kings viii. 9 ; xix. 8 ; 2 Chron. v. 10 ; Ps. cvi. 19 ; 

Mai. iv. 4 

Horem, N. Josh. xix. 38 

Horites, Gen. xiv. 6; xxxvi. 20, 21, 22, 29, 30; Numb. xiii. 

5 ; Deut. ii. 12, 22; 1 Chron. i. 39 

IIormah, or Zephath, Nitkb es-Svfdh, Numb. xiv. 45 ; xxi. 3 ; 

Deut. i. 44 ; Josh. xii. 14 ; xv. 30 ; xix. 4 ; Judges i. 17; 

1 Sam. xxx. 30; 1 Chron. iv. 30 

Horon. See Beth-Horon. 

Horonaim, Isaiah xv. 5 ; Jer. xlviii. 3, 5, 34 

Horonite, Neh. ii. 10 ; xiii. 28. 

Hosah, A. Josh. xix. 29 

House of Eden, Eliden? Amos i. 5 

House of Gilgal, Neh. xii. 29 

House of God. See Bethel. 
House of Joab. See Ataroth. 
House (shearing), 2 Kings x. 12. 

Hukkok, N. or Hukok, Josh. xix. 34; 1 Chron. vi. 75 

Humtah, J. Josh. xv. 54 

Huzoth. See Kirjath-Huzoth. 

Ibleam, M-. or Bileam? Josh. xvii. 11; Judges i. 27; 

2 Kings ix. 27 

Iconium, Koniyeh, Acts xiii. 51 ; xiv. 1, 19, 21 ; xvi. 2 ; 

2 Tim. iii. 11 

Idalah, Z. Josh. xix. 15 

Idumea. See Edom. 

Iim, or Ije-Abarim, Numb, xxxiii. 45 

Iim, J. Josh. xv. 29..... 

Ije-Abarim, Numb. xxi. 11 ; xxxiii. 44 

Eton, N. 1 Kings xv. 20 : 2 Kings xv. 29 ; 2 Chron. xvi. 4.. 

Illyricum, Dalmatia and Albania, Bom. xv. 19 

India, id., Esther i. 1 ; viii. 9 

Ir-shemesh, D. Josh. xix. 41 

Iron, or Ijon? Josh. xix. 38 

I r peel, B. Josh, xviii. 27 

Ish-tob, 2 Sam. x. 6, 8 

Italy (Italia), Italy, Acts xviii. 2; xxvii. 1, 6; Heb. xiii. 24. 

Ithnan, J. Josh. xv. 23 

Ittah-kazin, Z. Josh. xix. 13 

Itur^ea, El-Jeidtir, Luke iii. 1 

Ivah, or Ava (Aginis), Hawdz, 2 Kings xviii. 34 ; xix. 13 ; 
Isaiah xxxvii. 13 



N. 


Lat. 


E. Long. 


28 


3 3° / 


33 




3 2 


55 


35 


2 5 


3° 


5° 


35 


40 


3° 


59 


35 


! 3 


3 1 


43 


36 





33 


5 


5 J 


1 


34 


16 


35 


56 


3 1 


5° 


35 


3 1 


33 


54 


35 


~9 


3 1 


3° 


35 


8 


3* 


37 


5 c 
5 J 


1 2 
j 


37 


5° 


3 2 


AO 


3 2 


40 


1 : 
5 5 


I ? 


3 1 


1 


5 r 
5 3 


4.6 


3 l 


2 3 


34 


5° 


3° 


42 


35 


46 


3 2 


5° 


35 


29 


43 





18 





3° 





7 2 





3 1 


37 


34 


44 


r- 


5° 


35 


29 


3 1 


49 


35 


17 


33 





36 





42 





J 3 





3 l 


1 


35 


1 1 


3 2 


48 


35 


2 5 


35 


7 


36 


8 


3 1 


20 


48 


5 1 



Jaakan. See Beeroth of the children of Jaakan. 
Jaakan. See Bene-Jaakan. 

Jazer (Jaeser), 'Ain Hazeir, Numb. xxi. 32; xxxii. 1, 3, j 
35 ; Josh. xiii. 25 ; xxi. 39 ; 2 Sam. xxiv. 5 ; 1 Chron. 
vi. 81;* xxvi. 31;* Isaiah xvi. 8,9; Jer. xlviii. 32, 32,.... I 31 55 [35 51 



* These are spelled slightly different— thus, ^fj,**, 



that is with a Yod in final syllable, arid 



might be written Jaeseer. The English trans, of Jazer should be Jaezer, to give some value to the 
Ain. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Jabbok, River, Wady Zurka, Gen. xxxii. 22; Numb. xxi. 24; 

Deut. ii. 37 ; iii. 16; Josh. xii. 2; Judges xi. 13, 22... 
Jabesh, M-. or Jabesh-Gilead, Wady Tabes? Judges xxi. 8, 

9, 10, 12, 14; 1 Sam. xi. 1, 1, 3, 5, 9, 9, 10; xxxi. 11, 

12, 13 ; 2 Sam. ii. 4, 5 ; xxi. 12 ; 1 Chron. x. 11, 12, 12. 

Jabez, I. 1 Chron. ii. 55 

Jabneel, J. Josh. xv. 11 

Jabneel, N. Josh. xix. 33 

Jabneh (Jamnia), Yebna, 2 Chron. xxvi. 6 '. 

Jagur, J. Josh. xv. 21 

Jahaz, L.R. Num. xxi. 23; Deut, ii. 32; Judges xi. 20; 

Isaiah xv. 4 ;* Jer. xlviii. 34* 

Jahaz a, L.R, Jahzah and Jahazah, Josh. xiii. 18 ; 1 Chron. 

vi. 78 ; Jer. xlviii. 21. Same as the last 

Janoah, E. or Janohah? 2 Kings xv. 29 

Janohah, E. Josh. xvi. 6, 7 

Janum, J. Josh. xv. 53 

Japhia, Z. Ydfa, Josh. xix. 12 

Japhleti, Josh. xvi. 3 

Japho (Joppa), Ydfa, Josh. xix. 46 

Jarkon. See Me-jarkon. 

Jarmuth, Yarmuk, Josh. x. 3, 5, 23 ; xii. 11 ; xv. 35 ; Neh. 

xi. 29 

Jarmuth, or Remeth? Josh. xxi. 29 

Jashubi-Lehem, 1 Chron. iv. 22. 

Jattir, J. 'Attir, Josh. xv. 48 ; xxi. 14 ; 1 Sam. xxx. 27 ; 

1 Chron. vi. 57 

Javan (Greece), Isaiah lxvi. 19 ; Ezek. xxvii. 13, 19, (mid 

in orig. Dan. viii. 21 ; x. 20 ; xi. 2 ; Zech. ix. 13) 

Jazer, L.C. See Jaazer. 

Jearim, Mount, Josh. xv. 10 

Jearim. See Kirjath-Jearim. 

Jebus, Jerusalem (Hierosolyma), El-Kads, Judges xix. 10, 

11 ; 1 Chron. xi. 4, 5 

Jebusite, Gen. x. 16; xv. 21; Exod. iii. 8, 17 ; xiii. 5 ; xxiii. 

23 ; xxxiii. 2 ; xxxiv. 11 ; Numb. xiii. 29 ; Deut. vii. 1 ; 

xx. 17 ; Josh. iii. 10 ; ix. 1 ; xi. 3 ; xii. 8 ; xv. 8, 63, 

63 ; xviii. 16,t 28 ;f xxiv. 11 ; Judges i. 21, 21 ; iii. 5 ; 

xix. 11 ; 2 Sam. v. 6, 8 ; xxiv. 16, 18; 1 Kings ix. 20; 

1 Chron. i. 14; xi. 4, 6 ; xxi. 15, 18, 28 ; 2 Chron. iii. 

1 ; viii. 7 ; Ezra ix. 1 ; Neh. ix. 8 ; Zech. ix. 7 

Jegar Sahadutha, Galeed, or Mizpah, Gen. xxxi. 47 

Jehovah-Jireh, Gen. xxii. 14 

Jehovah-Nissi, Exod. xvii. 15 

Jehovah-Shalom, Judges vi. 24 

Jehud, D. El-Yeliiidiyeh, Josh. xix. 45 

Jekabzeel, Kabzeel? Neh. xi. 25 



N. Lat. | K. Long. 

3>°55' 35 3» / 
32 15 36 5 



32 


29 


35 


44 


3 1 


40 


35 


1 


3 1 


53 


34 


45 


35 


5 8 


35 


38 


3 1 


5 1 


34 45 


3 1 


55 


35 


53 


3 1 


55 


35 


5 ) 


3 1 


38 


35 


53 


3 2 


1 6 


35 


30 


3 2 


16 


35 


30 


3 1 


45 


35 


7 


3- 


42 


35 


18 


3- 





35 


18 


■> z 
5 


5 


34 


44 


3 1 


43 


34 


5 g - 


3- 


3 2 


35 


1 1 


3 1 


22 


35 


5 


38 





23 





3 1 


5° 


35 


5 


3 1 


46 


35 


18 



3 1 


5° 


35 


10 


3 2 


3 2 


36 


2 


3 s 


48 


35 


l 5 


28 


41 


34 


1 


3 2 


2 4 


35 


28 


3 1 


59 


34 


54 


3 1 


5 


35 


l 7 



* These are the only places where the name Jahaz is warranted by the Hebrew. In the other 
places. Jahaz, Jaliaza, and Jahazah should each be Jahzah as in 1 Chron. vi. 78, which is the only 
place wheiein the English trans, has the word properly spelled. In each instance it is pj a k£ 

t : - 

except in one where ) is used instead of ^ which variation is immaterial. The term appears to 

T _ 

have been the same in all the references, with a possibility of exception in the case of Jahaz. 
mentioned in the places marked with the (*). 
f Jebusi, the same as Jebusite. 



574 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Jerahmeelites, 1 Sam. xxvii. 10 ; xxx. 29. 

Jericho, Numb. xxii. 1; xxvi. 3, 63 ; xxxi. 12; xxxiii. 48. 
50 ; xxxiv. 15 ; xxxv. 1 ; xxxvi. 13 ; Deut. xxxii. 49 ; 
xxxiv. 1, 3 ; Josh. ii. 1, 2, 3 ; iii. 16 ; iv. 13, 19 ; v. 10, 
13 ; vi. 1, 2, 25, 26 ; vii. 2 ; viii. 2 ; ix. 3 ; x. 1, 28, 30; 
xii. 9; xiii. 32 ; xvi. 1, 1, 1, 7 : xviii. 12, 21; xx. 8; 
xxiv. 11, 11 ; 2 Sam. x. 5 ; 1 Kings xvi. 34; 2 Kings 
ii. 4, 4, 5, 15, 18 ; xxv. 5 ; 1 Chron. vi. 78 ; xix. 5 ; 2 
Chron. xxviii. 15 ; Ezra ii. 34 ; Neh. iii. 2 ; vii. 36 ; 
Jer. xxxix. 5 ; Iii. 8 ; Matt, xx. 29 ; Mark x. 46 ; Luke 

x. 30 ; xviii. 35 ; xix. 1 ; Hebrews xi. 30 

Jeruel, Wilderness of, 2 Chron. xx. 16 

Jerusalem (Hierosolyma, aft. iElia), El-Kuds. Josh. x. 1, 3, 

5, 23 ; xii. 10 ; xv. 8, 63, 63 ; xviii. 28 ; Judges i. 7, 8, 
21, 21; ix. 10; 1 Sam. xvii. 54; 2 Sam. v. 5, 6, 13, 
14 ; viii. 7 ; ix. 13 ; x. 14 ; xi. 1, 12 ; xii. 31 ; xiv. 23, 
28 ; xv. 8, 11, 14, 29, 37 ; xvi. 3, 15 ; xvii. 20 ; xix. 19, 
25, 33, 34; xx. 2, 3, 7, 22 ; xxiv. 8, 16; 1 Kings ii. 11, 
36, 38, 41 ; iii. 1, 15 ; viii. 1 ; ix. 15, 19 ; x. 2, 26, 27 ; 

xi. 7, 13, 29, 32, 36, 42; xii. 18, 21, 27, 28; xiv. 21, 25; 

xv. 2, 4, 4, 10 ; xxii. 42 ; 2 Kings viii. 17, 26 ; ix. 28 ; 

xii. 1, 17, 18 : xiv. 2, 2, 13, 13, 19, 20 ; xv. 2, 2, 33 ; 

xvi. 2, 5 ; xviii. 2, 17, 17, 22, 22, 35 ; xix. 10, 21, 31 ; 
xxi. 1, 4, 7, 12, 13, 13, 16, 19 ; xxii. 1, 14 ; xxiii. 1, 2, 

4, 5, 6. 9, 13, 20, 23, 24, 27, 30, 31, 33, 36 ; xxiv. 4, 8, 
8, 10, 14, 15, 18, 20 ; xxv. 1, 8, 9, 10 ; 1 Chron. iii. 4, 

5 ; vi. 10, 15, 32 ; viii. 28, 32 ; ix. 3, 34, 38 ; xi. 4 ; 
xiv. 3,4; xv. 3 ; xviii. 7 ; xix. 15 ; xx. 1, 3 ; xxi. 4, 15, 
16; xxiii. 25 ; xxviii. 1; xxix. 27 : 2 Chron. i. 4, 13, 
14, 15 ; ii. 7, 16 ; iii. 1 ; v. 2 ; vi. 6 ; viii. 6 ; ix. 1, 25, 
27 ;> 30 ; x. 18 ; xi. 1, 5, 14, 16 ; xii. 2, 4, 5, 7, 9, 13, 13 ; 

xiii. 2 ; xiv. 15 ; xv. 10 ; xvii. 13 ; xix. 1, 4, 8, 8 ; xx. 

5, 15, 17, 18, 20, 27, 27, 28, 31; xxi. 5, 11, 13, 20; xxii. 
1, 2 : xxiii. 2 ; xxiv. 1, 6, 9, 18, 23 ; xxv. 1, 1, 23, 23, 
27 ; xxvi. 3, 3, 9, 15 ; xxvii. 1, 8 ; xxviii. 1, 10, 24, 27 ; 
xxix. 1. 8; xxx. 1, 2, 3, 5, 11, 13, 14, 21, 26, 26; xxxi. 
4; xxxii. 2, 9, 9,'10, 12, 18, 19, 22, 23. 25, 26, 33; xxxiii. 
1, 4, 7, 9, 13, 15, 21 ; xxxiv. 1, 3, 5, 7. 9, 22, 29, 30, 32, 
32 ; xxxv. 1, 18, 24, 24 ; xxxvi. 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 
14, 19, 23 ; Ezra i. 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 7, 11 ; ii. 1, 68 ; iii. 1, 
8, 8; iv. 6, 8, 12, 20, 23, 24; v. 1, 2, 14, 15, 16, 17; 

vi. 3, 5, 5, 9, 12, 18 ; vii. 7, 8, 9, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 
27 ; viii. 29, 30, 31, 32 ; ix. 9 ; x. 7, 7, 9; Neh. i. 2, 3; 
ii. 11, 12, 13, 17, 17, 20 ; iii. 8, 9, 12 ; iv. 7, 8, 22 ; vi. 
7 ; vii. 2, 3, 3, 6 ; viii. 15 ; xi. 1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 22 ; xii. 
27, 27, 28, 29, 43 ; xiii. 6, 7, 15, 16, 19, 20 ; Esther ii. 

6 ; Psalm li. 18 ; lxviii. 29 ; lxxix. 1, 3 ; cii. 21 ; cxvi. 
19; cxxii. 2, 3, 6; cxxv. 2; cxxviii. 5; cxxxv. 21; 
cxxxvii. 5, 6, 7; cxlvii. 2, 12; Eccles. i. 1, 12, 16; ii. 7, 
9 ; Song of Sol. i. 5 ; ii. 7 ; iii. 5, 10 ; v. 8, 16 ; vi. 4; 
viii. 4 ; Isaiah i. 1 ; ii. 1, 3 ; iii. 1, 8 ; iv. 3, 3, 4 ; v. 3 ; 

vii. 1 ; viii. 14; x. 10, 11, 12, 32 ; xxii. 10, 21 ; xxi,v. 
23; xxvii. 13; xxviii. 14; xxx. 19; xxxi. 5, 9; xxxiii. 
20 ; xxxvi. 2, 7, 20 ; xxxvii. 10, 22, 32 ; xl. 2. 9 ; xii. 
27 ; xliv. 26, 28 ; li. 17 ; Hi. 1, 2, 9, 9 : lxii. 1, 6, 7 ; 
lxiv. 10; lxv. 18, 19 ; lxvi. 10, 13, 20 : Jer. i. 3, 15 ; ii. 



X. Lat. E. Long. 



3»V 35°3o / 
31 30 35 25 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



•J I 



I X. Lat. I E. Long. 

2; iii. 17, 17 : iv. 3, 4, 5, 10, 11, 14, 16; v. 1; vi. 1, 6, 
8; vii. 17. 34: viii. 1, 5 ; ix. 11: xi. 2. 6. 9, 12, 13 ; 
xiii. 9, 13, 27 ; xiv. 2, 16 ; xv. 4, 5 ; xvii. 19. 20, 21, 
25, 26, 27, 27 ; xviii. 11 ; xix. 3, 7, 13 : xxii. 19; xxiii. 
14, 15 ; xxiv. 1, 8 ; xxv. 2, 18 ; xxvi. 18 ; xxvii. 3, 18, 

20, 20, 21 : xxix. 1, 1, 2, 2, 4, 20, 25 : xxxii. 2, 32, 44; 
xxxiii. 10, 13, 16; xxxiv. 1, 6, 7, 8, 19 ; xxxv. 11, 11, 
13, 17 : xxxvi. 9, 9, 31 ; xxxvii. 5. 5. 11. 12 : xxxviii. 
28, 28 ; xxxix. 1, 8 : xl. 1 : xlii. 18 ; xliv. 2, 6, 9, 13. 
17, 21: li. 35, 50: lii. 1. 3, 4, 12, 13. 14. 29; Lament. 

i. 7, 8, 17 ; ii. 10, 13, 15 ; iv. 12 ; Ezek. iv. 1, 7, 16 ; v. 
5 ; viii. 3 ; ix. 4, 8 : xi. 15 ; xii. 10, 19 ; xiii. 16 ; xiv. 

21, 22 ; xv. 6 ; xvi. 2, 3 ; xvii. 12 ; xxi. 2, 20, 22 ; xxii. 
19 : xxiii. 4 : xxiv. 2 : xxvi. 2 ; xxxiii. 21 ; xxxvi. 38 ; 
Dan. i. 1 ; v. 2, 3 : vi. 10 ; ix. 2, 7, 12, 16, 16, 25 ; Joel 

ii. 32 ; iii. 1, 6, 16, 17, 20 ; Amos i. 2 ; ii. 5 ■ Obadiah 
11, 20 ; Micah i. 1. 5. 9, 12 : iii. 10, 12 ; iv. 2, 8 : Zeph. 

1. 4, 12; iii. 14, 16: Zeeh. i. 12, 14, 16, 16, 17, 19; ii. 

2, 4, 12 ; iii. 2 ; vii. 7 : viii. 3, 3, 4, 8, 15, 22 ; ix. 9, 
10 ; xii. 2, 2, 3, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. 11 ; xiii. 1 ; xiv. 2, 
4, 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16, 17, 21: Malachi ii. 11 ; iii. 4 ; 
Matt. ii. 1, 3 ; iii. 5 ; iv. 25 ; v. 35 : xv. 1 ; xvi. 21 : xx. 
17, 18; xxi. 1. 10: xxiii 37, 37; Mark i. 5: iii. 8, 22: vii. 
1 ; x. 32, 33 ; xi. 1, 11. 15, 27; xv. 41 ; Luke ii. 22, 25, 
38, 41, 42, 43, 45 ; iv. 9 ; v. 17 : vi. 17 : ix. 31, 51, 53 ; 
x.30; xiii. 4, 22, 33, 34, 34: xvii. 11; xviii. 31 ; xix. 11. 
28; xxi. 20, 24; xxiii. 7, 28; xxiv. 13, 18, 33. 47, 49,' 
52 ; John i. 19 ; ii. 13, 23 ; iv. 20, 21, 45 : v. 1, 2 ; vii. 
25 ; x. 22 ; xi. 18, 55 : xii. 12 : Acts i. 4. 8, 12, 12, 19: 
ii. 5, 14; iv. 6, 16 ; v. 16, 28; vi. 7 : viii. 1. 14, 25, 26, 
27 ; ix. 2, 13, 21, 26, 28 ; x. 39 ; xi. 2, 22, 27 ; xii. 25 ; 
xiii. 13, 27, 31 ; xv. 2, 4 ; xvi. 4: xviii. 21 ; xix. 21 : 
xx. 16, 22: xxi. 4, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17, 31: xxii. 5, 17, 
18; xxiii. 11; xxiv. 11; xxv. 1, 3, 7, 9, 15, 20, 24; 
xxvi. 4, 10, 20 ; xxviii. 17 ; Romans xv. 19, 25, 26, 31 ; 
1 Cor. xvi. 3 ; Gal. i. 17, 18 ; ii. 1 : iv. 25, 26 ; Heb. 



xii. 22; Rev. iii. 12; xxi. 2, 10* 3 1=46^ 3j c i8' 

Jeshaxah, 2 Chron. xiii. 19 32 2 35 23 

Jeshimoth. See Beth-Jeshimoth. 

Jethlah, R. Josh. xix. 42 31 52 34 54 

Jewry. See Judea. 



Jezreel, I. (Esdraelon), Zer'in, Josh. xv. 56 ; xvii. 16 ; 
xix. 18 ; Judges vi. 33 ; 1 Sam. xxv. 43 ; xxix. 1, 11; 
2 Sam. ii. 9 : iv. 4 ; 1 Kings iv. 12 ; xviii. 45, 46: xxi. 
1. 23 ; 2 Kings viii. 29, 29 : ix. 10, 15, 15, 16, 17, 30, 



36, 37 : x. 1, 6, 7, 11 ; 2 Chron. xxii. 6, 6 ; Hosea i. 4, 

4.5,11; ii. 22 32 34 35 2 3 

Jiphtah, J. Josh. xv. 43 31 33 35 o 

Jiphthah-el, Z. Valley of, El-Buttauf? Josh. xix. 14,27.. 32 48 35 20 
Jogbehah, G. El-Jebeiha? Numb." xxxii. 35; Judges 

™- 11 V- 2 35 59 

Jokdeam, J. Josh. xv. 56 3 1 43 35 - 

Jokmeam, L.R. or Kibzaim? 1 Chron. vi. 68 32 12 35 15 



* Casa Nuova, Lat. 31° 46' 35", Long. 35° IS' 30". 



576 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



N. Lat. 



E. Long. 



JokneaM, L.Z. Josh. xii. 22; xix. 11 ; xxi. 34; 1 Kings iv. 



JOKTHEEL, Josh. XV. 38, 




Joktheel, or Selah (Petra?), Wady Miisa? 2 Kings xiv. 7. 30 25 35 39 
Joppa, or Japho (Joppa), Yd/a, 2 Chron. ii. 16: Ezra iii. 
7 ; Jonah i. 3 ; Acts ix. 36, 38, 42, 43 : x. 5, 8, 23, 32; 

si- 5, 13* 32 3 ; 34 44 

Jordan, Plain of (Aulon, or Magnus Campus), El-GhorA 



Jordan, River, Esli-Sheiali el-Kebir.j Gen. xxxii. 10; L 10, | 
11 : Numb. xiii. 29 ; xxii. 1 : xxvi. 3, 63 ; xxxi. 12 ; 

xxxii. 5, 19, 19, 21, 29, 32 ; xxxiii. 48, 49, 50, 51 : 
xxxiv. 12, 15 : xxxv. 1, 10, 14 : xxxvi. 13 Deut. i. 1, 
5 : ii. 29 : iii. 8, 17, 20, 25. 27 : iv. 21, 22, 26, 41, 46, 
47, 49: ix. 1 ; xi. 30, 31 ; xii. 10 ; xxvii. 2, 4, 12 ; xxx. 
18 ; xxxi. 2, 13 ; xxxii. 47 ; Josh. i. 2, 11, 14, 15: ii. 7, 
10: iii. 1. 8, 8, 11, 13, 13. 14. 15, 15, 17, 17: iv. 1, 3, 
5, 7, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23 : v. 1, 
1 ; vii. 7, 7 : ix. 1, 10 : xii. 1, 7 : xiii. 8, 23, 27, 27, 32; 
xiv. 3 ; xv. 5, 5 ; xvi. 1, 7 : xvii. 5 ; xviii. 7, 12, 19, 20; 
xix. 22, 33, 34 ; xx. 8 : xxii. 4, 7, 10, 10, 11, 25 ; xxiii. 
4 ; xxiv. 8, 11 ; Judges iii. 28 : v. 17 ; vii. 24, 24, 25 ; 
viii. 4 : x. 8. 9 : xi. 13, 22 : xii. 5. 6 : 1 Sam. xiii. 7 ; 
xxxi. 7 ; 2 Sam. ii. 29 : x. 17 ; xvii. 22. 22, 24 : xix. 
15. 15, 17, 18, 31, 31, 36, 39, 41; xx. 2: xxiv. 5; 
1 Kings ii. 8 ; vii. 46 ; xvii. 3. 5 ; 2 Kings ii. 6, 7, 13 ; 
v. 10, 14: vi. 2, 4: vii. 15 ; x. 33; 1 Chron. vi. 78, 78; 
xii. 15, 37 ; xix. 17 : xxvi. 30 ; 2 Chron. iv. 17 : Job 
xl. 23 : Psalm xiii. 6 ; cxiv. 3, 5 : Isaiah ix. 1 ; Jer. 
xii. 5: xlix. 19: 1. 44: Ezek. xlvii. 18; Zeeh. xi. 3 : 
Matt. iii. 5, 6, 13 : iv. 15, 25 ; xix. 1 ; Mark i. 5, 9 ; 

iii. 8 ; x. 1 ; Luke iii. 3 ; iv. 1 ; John i. 28 ; iii. 26 ; 32 42 j 35 32 

x. 40 31 45 I 35 38 

Jotbah, Jotbath? 2 Kings xxi. 19. 

Jotbath, or Jotbathah, Elath ? (JElana?), 'AJcabah? Numb. 

xxxiii. 33, 34; Deut. x. 7 29 33 ' 35 o 

Judea, Judah, Jewry (Judaea), Josh. xi. 21; xix. 34; xx. 

7 : xxi. II : Judges xv. 9. 10. 11 ; xvii.«7, 8, 9 : xviii. 
12 : xix. 1,2, 18, 18 ; Ruth i. 1, 2, 7 : 1 Sam. xvii. 12; 
xxii. 5 ; xxiii. 3 : xxvii. 10 ; xxx. 16 : 2 Sam. ii. 1 ; vi. 
2: xxiv. 7; 1 Kings xii. 17, 32 : xiii. 1. 12, 21: 
xiv. 21 : xv. 22 : 2 Kings xviii. 13 : xxiii. 1, 2, 5, 5, 8, 
11, 12, 17, 22, 24, 26; xxiv. 2, 5, 12, 20: xxv. 22; 
1 Chron. vi. 55 : 2 Chron. ii. 7 : ix. 11 : x. 17 : xi. 3, 

5, 10, 12. 14, 17. 23 : xii. 4. 12 : xiv. 5, 6, 8 ; xv. 8 ; 
xvii. 2, 2, 6. 7, 9. 10. 12, 13. 14, 19 ; xix. 5 ; xx. 3, 4, 
20. 22, 24, 27 ; xxi. 3, 11, 17 ; xxiii. 2, 2, 8 ; xxiv. 5, 

6, 9, 17, 18 ; xxv. 13, 28 ; xxvii. 4 ; xxviii. 6, 18, 25 ; 
xxx. 12 ; xxxi. 1, 1, 6, 6, 20 ; xxxii. 1, 25 : xxxiii. 
14; xxxiv. 3, 5, 30; Ezra i. 2, 3 : ii. 1: iv. 6; v. 1, 

8 ; vii. 14 ; ix. 9 ; x. 7 ; Neh. ii. 5, 7 ; v. 14 ; vi. 7, 18; 
vii. 6 ; xi. 3, 20 ; xiii. 15 ; Psalm lxix. 35 ; Isaiah i. 1, 



Gen. xiii. 10. 11 



o 



35 34 



* English Bastion. Lat. 32° IT/ 10". Lon<>-. 34°44' 37". 

* Mouth of Jordan. 31° ii' 4C". 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



577 



1 ; ii. 1; iii. 1; viii. 8; xix. 17; xxii. 8; xxvi. 1; 
xxxvi. 7 ; xl. 9 ; xliv. 26 ; xlviii. 1 ; Jer. i. 15 ; iv. 5, 
16 ; v. 20 ; vii. 2, 17, 34 ; ix. 11, 26 ; x. 22 ; xi. 6, 10, 
12 ; xvii. 26 ; xxii. 30 ; xxiv. 5 ; xxv. 18 ; xxvi. 2, 18, 
18, 19, 19; xxvii. 12, 18, 20, 20, 21; xxviii. 1,4; 
xxix. 2, 3, 22 ; xxxi. 23, 24 ; xxxii. 44 ; xxxiii. 10, 14 ; 
xxxiv. 7, 7, 22 ; xxxvi. 9 ; xxxvii. 1 ; xxxix. 6, 10 ; 
xl. 1, 5, 12, 15 ; xliii. 4, 5 ; xliv. 2, 6, 7, 9, 17, 21, 28 ; 
li. 59 ; lii. 3 ; Lamentations v. 11 ; Ezek. xxi. 20 ; 
xlviii. 8, 22, 31 ; Daniel ii. 25 ; v. 13, 13 ;* vi. 13 ; Joel 
iii. 18 ; Amos ii. 5 ; vii. 12 ; Micah i. 5, 9 ; Zech. i. 12; 

xiv. 21 ; Matt. ii. 1, 5, 22 ; iii. 1, 5 ; iv. 25 ; xix. 1 ; 
xxiv. 16 ; Mark i. 5 ; iii. 7 ; x. 1 ; xiii. 14 ; Luke i. 5, 
65 ; ii. 4; iii. 1 ; v. 17 ; vi. 17 ; vii. 17 ; xxi. 21 ; xxiii. 
5 ; John iii. 22 ; iv. 3, 47, 54 ; vii. 1,3; xi. 7 ; Acts 
i. 8 ; ii. 9 ; viii. 1 ; ix. 31 ; x. 37 ; xi. 1, 29 ; xii. 19 ; 

xv. 1 ; xxi. 10 ; xxvi. 20 ; xxviii. 21 ; Romans xv. 31 ; 

2 Cor. i. 16; Gal. i. 22; 1 Thess. ii. 14 

Juttah, Yutta, Josh. xv. 55 ; xxi. 16 



Kabzeel, Josh. xv. 21 ; 2 Sam. xxiii. 20 ; 1 Chron. xi. 22... 

Kadesh, 'Ain Kades, Gen. xiv. 7 ; xvi. 14; xx. 1 

Kadesh, J. or Kadesh-barnea? 'Ain el- Weihehf Numb. xiii. 

26 ; xx. 1, 14, 22 ; xxvii. 14 ; xxxiii. 36, 37 ; Deut. i. 

46; xxxii. 51; Judges xi. 16, 17; Psalm xxix. 8; 

Ezek. xlvii. 19 ; xlviii. 28 

Kadesh-barnea, 'Ain el-Weibeh? Numb, xxxii. 8; xxxiv. 

4 : Deut. i. 2, 19; ii. 14; ix. 23; Josh. x. 41; xiv. 6, 

7 ; xv. 3 

Kadmonites, Gen. xv. 19 

Kanah, River, Nahr Arsilf? Josh. xvi. 8 ; xvii. 9 

Kanah, Kdna, Josh. xix. 28 

Karkaa, J. Josh. xv. 3 

Karkor, Judges viii. 10 

Karnaim. See Ashtaroth-Karnaim. 

Kartah, Z. Josh. xxi. 34 

K art an, Josh. xxi. 32 

Kattath, Kartah? Josh. xix. 15 

Kazin. See Ittah-Kazin. 

Kedemoth, L.R. Deut. ii. 26 ; Josh. xiii. 18 ; 1 Chron. vi. 

79 

Kedesh, L.N. Kedes, Josh. xii. 22 ; xix. 37 ; xx. 7 ; xxi. 

32 ; Judges iv. 6, 9, 10, 11 ; 2 Kings xv. 29 ; 1 Chron. 

vi. 72, 76 

Kedesh, J. Josh. xv. 23 

Kehelathah, Numb, xxxiii. 22, 23 

Keilah, J. Josh. xv. 44; 1 Sam. xxiii. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 

8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 13 : 1 Chron. iv. 19 ; Neh. iii. 17, 18. 
Kenath, M-. (Canatha), Kuneiterali? Numb, xxxii. 42: 

1 Chron. ii. 23 

Kenezite, Kenizzites, Gen. xv. 19 ; Numb, xxxii. 12 ; 

Josh. xiv. 6, 14 



K. Long. 



31 27 



3 1 5 

3° 43 



30 41 



30 41 
3220 

32 17 

33 16 
3° 47 
32 10 

3 2 44 

32 56 

3 2 44 



3 1 33 

33 9 

31 6 

3° 55 

31 32 

33 7 

31 o 



* Jewry in the English, but Judah in the Hebrew. 
37 



578 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Kenite, Gen. xv. 19 ; Numb. xxiv. 21, 22 ; Judges i. 16 ; 

iv. 11, 11, 17, 17 ; v. 24; 1 Sam. xv. 6, 6 ; xxvii. 10; 

xxx. 29 ; 1 Chron. ii. 55 

Kenizzite, Gen. xv. 19; Numb, xxxii. 12;* Josh. xiv. 6,* 

14* 

Kerioth, Josh. xv. 25 ; Jer. xlviii. 24, 41 : Amos ii. 2 

Keziz, "the Valley of," Wadij Kelt?? Josh, xviii. 21f 

Kibroth-hattaavah, Numb. xi. 34, 35 ; xxxiii. 16, 17 ; Deut. 

ix. 22 

Kibzaim, L.R. or Jokmeam? Josh. xxi. 22 

Kidron, Brook, J. Wady Kidrdn, 2 Sam. xv. 23 ; 1 Kings 

ii. 37 ; xv. 13 ; 2 Kings xxiii. 4,J 6, 6, 12 ; 2 Chron. 
xv. 16; xxix. 16; xxx. 14; Jer. xxxi. 40 : 

Kin ah, Josh. xv. 22 

King's Dale. See "Dale, the King's." 

Kir, Kurdistan? 2 Kings xvi. 9 ; Isaiah xxii. 6 ; Amos i. 5 ; 

ix. 7 

Kir "of Moab" (Chareg-Moba), Kerek, Isaiah xv. 1 

Kirharaseth, or Kirhareseth, Kir (Charax), Kerek, 2 Kings 

iii. 25 ; Isaiah xvi. 7 

Kirharesh, or Kirheres, Kir (Charax), Kerek, Isaiah xvi. 

11 ; Jer. xlviii. 31, 36 

Kiriathaim, R. Numb, xxxii. 37 ;$ Josh. xiii. 19 ;§ Jer. 

xlviii. 1, 23 ; Ezek. xxv. 9 

Kiriathaim. See Shaveh-Kiriathaim. 
Kirioth, J. See Kerioth. 

Kirjath-Arba, L. Hebron, El-Khdlil, Gen. xxiii. 2 ; xxxv. 

27 ; Josh. xiv. 15 ; xv. 13, 54; xx. 7 ; xxi. 11 ; Judges 

i. 10; Neh. xi. 25 

Kirjath-Arim, Josh, xviii. 28 ;|| Ezra ii. 25 

Kirjath-Baal, J. Kuriyet el-Enab? Josh. xv. 60; xviii. 

14 

Kirjath-Huzoth, Kir? Numb. xxii. 39 

Kirjath-Jearim, J. Kuriyet el-Enab? Josh. ix. 17; xv. 9, 

60 ; xviii. 14, 15 ; Judges xviii. 12, 12 ; 1 Sam. vi. 21 ; 

vii. 1, 2 ; 1 Chron. ii. 50, 52, 53 ; xiii. 5, 6 ; 2 Chron. 

i. 4 ; Neh. vii. 29 ; Jer. xxvi. 20 

Kirjath-Sannah, or Debir, Josh. xv. 49 

Kirjath-Sepher, J. or Debir, Josh. xv. 15, 16 ; Judges i. 

11, 12 

Kirjathaim, L.N. Kartan? 1 Chron. vi. 76 

Kirjathaim. See Kiriathaim. 

Kishion, L.J. or Kishon, Josh. xix. 20 ;f xxi. 28 

Kishon, River, Nahr MuJcutta', Judges iv. 7, 13 ; v. 21, 21; 

1 Kings xviii. 40; Psalm lxxxiii. 9 

Kithlish, J. Josh. xv. 40 

Kitron, Z. (Sepphoris ?), Sefdreh? Judges i. 30 

Kit Tim. See Chittim. 



N. Lat. 


E. Long. 




34°3o / 


3 1 





35 


35 


3 1 


10 


35 


5 


3 1 


54 


35 


26 


2? 


43 


34 


1 8 


3 2 


1 2 


35 


*5 


3 1 


47 


35 


19 


3 1 


3 


35 


2 1 


37 





44 





3 1 


1 3 


35 


48 


3 1 


*5 


35 


45 


3 1 


J 3 


35 


48 


3 1 


4 2 


35 


44 


3 1 


3 2 


35 


8 


3 J 


5 2 


35 


14 


3 1 


48 


35 


1 


3 1 


1 5 


35 


45 


3 1 


48 


35 


10 


3 1 


28 


35 


2 


3 1 


28 


35 




3 2 


56 


35 


3 1 


3 2 


39 


35 


r 5 


3 2 


45 


35 


6 


3 1 


37 


34 


57 


3 2 


48 


35 


l 9 



* Kenezite in the English, but at variance with the right spelling, which is Kenizzite. The Hebrew 
being the same in each case gives no ground for the variation found in our translation. 

f In English version '' Valley," but more probably Emek Keziz, a city in a valley about the lati- 
tude and longitude as above. The Hebrew for valley is Emek. See the references given above. 

X Field of Kidron. \ Kirjathaiam, which is correct; the others wrong. There is no variation 
in the Hebrew word. 

I! "Without Arim. \ Kishion, a misprint. Hebrew the same as Kishon. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



570 



Lab ax, Deut. i. 1 

Lachish, J. Josh. x. 3, 5, 23, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35 ; xii. 11 ; 

xt. 39 ; 2 Kings xiv. 19, 19 ; xviii. 14, 17 ; xix. 8 ; 

2 Chron. xi. 9 ;' xxv. 27, 27 ; xxxii. 9 ; Neh. xi. 30 ; 

Isaiah xxxvi. 2 ; xxxvii. 8 ; Jer. xxxiv. 7 ; Micah i. 13. 

Lahai-roi, the Well, Gen. xvi. 14;* xxiv. 62; xxv. 11 

Lahmam, J. Josh. xy. 40 

Laish, or Dan, Tell el-Kady, Judges xviii. 7, 14, 27, 29 ; 

Isaiah x. 30 

Lakum, N. Josh. xix. 33 

Laodicea, Eski-Hissar, Col. ii. 1: iy. 13, 15, 16; Rev. i. 11. 

Lasea (Lascea), Acts xxvii. 8 

Lasha, Laish? Gen. x. 19 

Lebaxox (Libanus), Jebel Libnan, &c., Deut. i. 7 ; iii. 25 ; 

xi. 24 ; Josh. i. 4 ; ix. 1 ; xi. 17 ; xii. 7 ; xiii. 5, 6 ; 

Judges iii. 3 ; ix. 15 ; 1 Kings iv. 33 ; v. 6, 9, 14, 14 ; 

vii. 2 ; ix. 19 ; x. 17, 21 : 2 Kings xiv. 9, 9, 9 ; xix. 23 ; 

2 Chron. ii. 8, 8, 16; viii. 6; ix. 16, 20; xxv. 18, 18, 18; 

Ezra iii. 7 : Psalm xxix. 5, 6 ; lxxii. 16 ; xcii. 12 ; civ. 

16 ; Song of Sol. iii. 9 ; iv. 8, 8, 11, 15 ; v. 15 ; vii. 4 ; 

Isaiah ii. 13 ; x. 34 ; xiv. 8 ; xxix. 17 ; xxxiii. 9 ; xxxv. 

2; xxxvii. 24; xl. 16; lx. 13; Jer. xviii. 14; xxii. 6, 20, 

23 ; Ezek. xvii. 3 ; xxvii. 5 ; xxxi. 3, 15, 16 ; Hosea xiv. 

5, 6, 7 ; Nahuni i. 4; Hab. ii. 17 ; Zech. x. 10; xi. 1.. 

Lebaoth, S.'Josh. xv. 32 

Lebaoth. See Beth-Lebaoth. 

Leboxah, El-Lubbdn, Judges xxi. 19 

Lehi, Judges xv. 9, 14, 19 

Lehi. See Ramath-Lehi. 

Leshem, Dan, Tell el-Kady, Josh. xix. 47, 47 

Libxah, Numb, xxxiii. 20 

Libxah, L.J. Josh. x. 29, 29, 31, 32, 39 ; xii. 15 ; xv. 42 ; 

xxi. 13 ; 2 Kings viii. 22 ; xix. 8 ; xxiii. 31 ; xxiv. 18 ; 

1 Chron. vi. 57 ; 2 Chron. xxi. 10 ; Isaiah xxxvii. 8 ; 

Jer. Iii. 1 

Libxath. See Shihor-Libnath. 

Libya, Ezek. xxx. 5 ; xxxviii. 5 ; Acts ii. 10 

Lo-debar, 2 Sam. ix. 4, 5 ; xvii. 27 

Lod, Lydda, Ludd, 1 Chron. viii. 12; Ezra ii. 33; Neh. vii. 

37; xi. 35 

Lubim, 2 Chron. xii. 3 ; xvi. 8 ; Nahum iii. 9 

Ltjd, Lydia, Isaiah lxvi. 19 ; Ezek. xxvii. 10 ; xxx. 5. 

Luhith, Isaiah xv. 5 ; Jer. xlviii. 5 

Luz, Beth-el, Beitin, Gen. xxviii. 19 ; xxxv. 6 ; xlviii. 3 ; 

Josh. xvi. 2 ; xviii. 13, 13 ; Judges i. 23, 26 

Lycaonia, Acts xiv. 6, 11 

Lycia, Acts xxvii. 5 

Lydda (Diospolis), Ludd, Acts ix. 32, 35, 38 

Lydia. See Lud. 

Lystra, Bin-Mr- Kilted? Acts xiv. 6, 8, 21: xvi. 1, 2; 2 Tim. 
iii. 11 



N. Lat. I E. Long. 



3 1 3 1 34 5 8 
31 8 34 55 

3 1 35 ! 34 5 8 



33 *5 

3 2 5 7 
3 7 5 1 

34 59 

33 l S 



35 39 
35 3 5 
29 13 

24 49 » 

35 3 7 



34 





35 


5° 


3 1 


27 


34 


44 


3 2 


7 


35 


20 


3 1 


32 


34 


40 


33 


l 5 


35 


37 


3° 


35 


34 


20 


3 1 


35 


35 




3 2 





22 


30 


32 


28 


36 


4 


3 1 


5 7 


34 


56 


3 2 





22 





3 1 


3 1 


36 


,o 


3 1 


56 


35 


18 


38 





33 


20 


36 


3° 


30 





3 1 


56 


34 


54 


37 


24 


33 


22 



* In English Bir-lahai-roi, but Bir signifies Well." 



580 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Maachah, 2 Sam. x. 0, 8 ; 1 Cbron. xix. 7 

Maachah. See Beth-Maachah. 

Maaleet-akrabbim, and Maaieh-Acrabbim, Numb, xxxiv. 

4; Josh. xy. 3; Judges i. 36 

Maarath, J. Josh. xy. 59 

Macedonia, Eoumelia, part of, Acts xvi. 9, 9, 10, 12 ; xviii. 

5 ; xix. 21, 22, 29 ; xx. 1, 3 ; Rom. xy. 26 ; 1 Cor. xvi. 

5, 5 ; 2 Cor. i. 16, 16; ii. 13; vii. 5 : viii. 1 : ix. 2, 4 ; 

xi. 9; Phil. iv. 15 ; 1 Thess. i. 7, 8; iv. .10; 1 Tim. i. 3. 
Machpelah, Gen. xxiii. 9, 17, 19; xxy. 9; xlix. 30: 1. 13.. 
Madai. See Media. 

Madian, Land of, Midian (Arabia Petrsea, part of). Acts 1 
Yii. 29 j 

Madmaxxah, J. Josh. xy. 31 

Madmen, Jer. xlviii. 2 j 

Madmexah, Madmannah? Isaiah x. 31 

Madon, Josh. xi. 1; xii. 19 j 

Magdala, El-Mejdel, Matt. xy. 39 

Mahaxaim, L.G. Gen. xxxii. 2; Josh. xiii. 26, 30; xxi. 38 ; 
2 Sam. ii. 8, 12, 29; xvii. 24, 27; xix. 32 ; 1 Kings ii. 
8; iv. 14; 1 Chron. vi. 80 

Mahaxeh-Dax, Judges xviii. 12 

Maim. See Abel-Maim. 

Maim. See Misrephoth-Maim. 

Makaz, 1 Kings iv. 9 

Makheloth, Numb, xxxiii. 25, 26 

Makkedah, J. Josh. x. 10, 16, 17, 21, 28, 28, 29 ; xii. 16 ; 

xv. 41 

Maktesh, in or near Jerusalem? Zeph. i. 11. 

Mamre, Edmet el-Klialil, Gen. xiii. 18; xviii. 1; xxiii. 17, 

19; xxv. 9; xxxv. 27; xlix. 30; 1. 13 

Maxahath, 1 Chron. viii. 6 

Maox, J. Ma'i?i, Josh. xv. 55 ; 1 Sam. xxiii. 24, 25, 25 ; 

xxv. 2 

Marah, 'Ain Hawdrdh, Exod. xv. 23, 23, 23; Numb, xxxiii. 



N. Lat. 

33 °i8' 



31 o 

3 1 35 



41 o 

3 1 34 



E. Lone. 

35°34' 



35 3° 
35 5 



22 30 

35 8 



Maralah, Z. Josh. xix. 11 

Maresha, J. or Mareshah (Marissa), Josh. xv. 44 ; 1 Chron. 

ii. 42 ; iv. 21 ; 2 Chron. xi. 8 ; xiv. 9, 10 ; xx. 37 ; 

Micah i. 15 

Maroth, J. Ramah? Micah i. 12 

Mashal, 1 Chron. vi. 74 

Masrekah, Gen. xxxvi. 36; 1 Chron. i. 47 



16 



00 



xxxm. 



Massah, Exod. xvii. 7 ; Dent, vi 

Mattaxah, Numb. xxi. 18, 19 

Me-Jarkon, Josh. xix. 46 

Meah, Tower of, in Jerusalem, Neh. iii. 

Mearah, Josh. xiii. 4 

Medeba, R. (Medaba), Numb. xxi. 30 

1 Chron. xix. 7 ; Isaiah xv. 2 

Media, Irak-Ajemi, Esther i. 3, 14, 18 ; x. 2 ; Isaiah xxi. 2 ; 

Dan. viii. 20 



1 ; xii. 39 

: Josh. xiii. 9, 16 



Megiddo (Legio),*.E7 Lejjun? Josh. xii. 21; xvii. 11; Judges 



2 8 


40 


34 




3 1 


20 


35 





3 1 


10 


35 


50 


3 1 


20 


35 





33 


10 


35 


30 


3 2 


49 


35 


3 1 


3 2 


3 2 


35 


3 2 


3 1 


50 


35 


7 


3 1 


5 2 


34 


57 


30 


35 


3 3 





3 1 


36 


35 


4 


3 1 


34 


35 


9 


3 1 


5° 


35 


20 


3 1 


2 5 


35 


16 


29 


22 


3 2 


57 


3 2 


39 


35 


1 2 


3 1 


35 


34 





3 1 


5 2 


35 


18 


3 2 


5° 


35 


5 


3° 





35 


30 


28 


4' 


34 


1 


3* 


46 


35 


48 


3 1 


5 2 




49 


3 1 


46 


It 


18 


33 


2 5 


35 


21 


3 1 


43 


35 


54 


35 





48 






* In Asher, but assigned to M., Josh. xvii. 11. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



581 



i. 27 ; v. 19 ; 1 Kings iv. 12 ; ix. 15 ; 2 Kings ix. 27 ; 

xxiii. 29, 30 ; 1 Chron. vii. 29..... 

Megiddo, Valley of, or Megiddon (Plain of Esdraelon), Merj 

Ibn 'Ami?', 2 Chron. xxxv. 22 : Zech. xii. 11 

Meholah. See Abel-Meholah. 
Mehunims, 2 Chron. xxvi. 7. 

Mekoxah, Neh. xi. 28 

Melah. See Tel-Melah. 

Melita, Malta, Acts xxviii. 1 

Memphis, Mitrahenny, Hosea ix. 6 

Meox. See Baal-Meon. 
Meox. See Beth-Baal-Meon. 
Meox. See Beth-Meon. 

Mephaath, L.R. Josh. xiii. 18 ; 1 Chron. vi. 79 ; Jer. 

xlviii. 21 

Merathaim (Babylonia?), Irak-Arabi? Jer. 1. 21 

Meribah, Exod. xvii. 7 

Merom, AVaters of (L. Semechonitis), Bahr el-Huleh, Josh. 

xi. 5, 7 

Merox. See Shimron-Meron. 

Meroz, El-Mezra'ah? Judges v. 23 

Mesha (Mount Masius?), Kardjah-Dagh? Gen. x. 30 

Meshech (Moschi?) Psalm cxx. 5 

Mesopotamia, (No. 1.) See Aram. 

Mesopotamia (No. 2), Aram-Naharaim, Gen. xxiv. 10; 
Deut. xxiii. 4 ; Judges iii. 8 ; 1 Chron. xix. 6 ; Psalm 
lx. title 

Mesopotamia, Al-Jezireh, Acts ii. 9 ; vii. 2 

Metheg-Ammah, 2 Sam. viii. 1 

Michmas, B. Michmash, MukJimds, Ezra ii. 27 ; Neh. 
vii. 31 

Michmash, B. Mukhmds, 1 Sam. xiii. 2, 5, 11, 16, 23 ; xiv. 5, 
31; Neh. xi. 31 ; Isaiah x. 28 

Michmethah, S. Josh, xvi. 6; xvii. 7 

Middix, J. Mirdf Josh. xv. 61 

Midian, Land of (Arabia Petrsea, part of), Exod. ii. 15, 16; 
iii. 1 ; iv. 19 ; xviii. 1 ; 1 Kings xi. 18 ; Isaiah lx. 6 ; 
Hab. iii. 7 

Midianites, Gen. xxxvi. 35 ;* xxxvii. 28 ; Numb. x. 29 ; 
xxii. 4, 7 ; xxv. 6, 14, 15, 15, 17, 18 ; xxxi. 2, 3, 3, 7, 
8, 8, 9; Josh. xiii. 21; Judges vi. 1, 2, 2, 3, 6, 7, 11, 
13, 14, 16, 33 ; vii. 1, 2, 7, 8, 12, 13, 14. 15, 23, 24, 
25, 25 ; viii. 1, 3, 5, 12, 22, 26, 28 : ix. 17 ; 1 Kings 
xi. 18 ; 1 Chron. i. 46 ;* Psalm lxxxiii. 9 ; Isaiah ix. 4: 
x. 26 

Migdal-el, N. Magdala? Ei-Mejdd, Josh. xix. 38 

Migdal-Gad, J. Josh. xv. 37 

Migdol, Exod. xiv. 2 ; Numb, xxxiii. 7 

Migdol (Magdolum), Jer. xliv. 1 : xlvi. 14 

Migrox, B. 1 Sam. xiv. 2 ; Isaiah x. 28 

Miletus, Miletum, Melas, Acts xx. 15, 17 ; 2 Tim. iv. 20... 

Millo, Judges ix. 6, 20, 20 

Millo, in Jerusalem, 2 Sam. v. 9 ; 1 Kings ix. 15, 24; 



N. I.at. | E. Long. 

3 2 °35' 



31 36 



3 1 43 

35 5 2 
29 51 



31 40 

32 30 
28 41 

33 5 

32 40 

37 3° 

41 o 



37 

36 o 

31 50 

31 52 



32 17 
3 1 44 



35 x 5 



35 5 

14 25 
31 14 



35 54 
44 3° 

34 1 

3 5 3 8 

35 *9 

41 o 

42 o 



39 ° 
41 o 

34 5° 



35 21 

35 21 

35 3 

35 2 7 



28 40 34 20 



28 40 ! 34 20 
3 2 5° 35 



3 1 34 
29 58 

3° 57 

3* 53 

3 7 3 1 

32 14 



34 5° 
32 25 
32 21 

35 *5 
27 18 

35 H 



* It is doubtful whether this signifies the man or the nation, but more probably the former. 



582 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



xi. 27 ; 2 Kings xii. 20 ; 1 Chron. xi. 8 ; 2 Chron. 

xxxii. 5 

Minni (Armenia Minor?), Jer. li. 27 

Minnith, Judges xi. 33 ; Ezek. xxvii. 17 

Misgab, Jer. xlviii. 1 

Mishal, or Misheal, Josh. xix. 26 ; xxi. 30 

Mishpat. See En-Mishpat. 

Misrephoth-Maim, Josh. xi. 8 ; xiii. 6 

Mithcah, Numb, xxxiii. 28, 29 

Mitylene, Mytilini, Acts xx. 14....... 

Mizpah, or Mizpeh, Gen. xxxi. 49 ; Josh. xi. 3 ; Judges x. 
17; xi. 11, 29, 29, 34; Hosea v. 1 

Mizpeh, Josh. xv. 38 ' 

Mizpeh, R. or Mizpah, Neby-Samwtt? Josh, xviii. 26 ; 
Judges xx. 1, 3; xxi. 1, 5, 8; 1 Sam. vii. 5, 6, 6, 7, 11, 
12, 16 ; x. 17 : 1 Kings xv. 22 ; 2 Kings xxv. 23, 25 ; 
2 Chron. xvi. 6 : Neh. iii. 7, 15, 19 ; Jer. xl. 6, 8, 10, 
12, 13, 15; xli. 1, 1, 3, 6, 10, 10, 14, 16 

Mizpeh, in Moab, 1 Sam. xxii. 3 

Mizpeh, Valley of (Lebanon), Josh. xi. 8 

Mizpeh, G. See Ramath-Mizpeh. 

Mizraim. See Abel-Mizraim. 

Moab (Moabites), Kerek, district of, Gen. xxxvi. 35 ; Numb. 

xxi. 11, 13, 13, 15, 20, 26, 28, 29 ; xxii. 1, 36 ; xxiv. 
17; xxvi. 3, 63; xxxi. 12; xxxiii. 44, 48, 49, 50; xxxv. 

1 ; xxxvi. 13 ; Deut. i. 5 ; ii. 8, 9, 18 ; xxix. 1 ; xxxii. 
49 ; xxxiv. 1, 5, 6, 8 ; Josh. xiii. 32 ; xxiv. 9 ; Judges 

iii. 12, 14, 15, 17, 28 ; x. 6 ; xi. 15, 17, 18, 18, 18, 18, 
25 ; Ruth i. 1, 2, 6, 6, 22 ; ii. 6 ; iv. 3 ; ISam. xii. 9 ; 

xxii. 3, 4 ; 2 Sam. viii. 12 ; xxiii. 20 ; 2 Kings iii. 4, 5, 
7, 26; 1 Chron. i. 46; iv. 22; viii. 8; xi. 22; xviii. 11; 

2 Chron. xx. 10, 22, 23 ; Isaiah xi. 14 ; xv. 1, 1, 1, 4, 
5, 8, 9; xvi. 4, 6, 7, 7, 11, 12, 13, 14; xxv. 10; Jer. 
xxvii. 3 ; xl. 11 ; xlviii. 1, 2, 4, 9, 11, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20, 
24, 28, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 38, 38, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 
46, 47; Ezek. xxv. 9, 11; Dan. xi. 41; Amos ii. 2, 2: 
Micah vi. 5 

Moladah (Malatha), El-Mihl, Josh. xv. 26 ; xix. 2 ; 1 Chron. 

iv. 28; Neh. xi. 26.. ;; . 

Moreh, Plain of, Gen. xii. 6 ; Deut. xi. 30 

Moreh, Hill of, Judges vii. 1 

Moresheth-Gath, J. Gath? Micah i. 14 

Moriah, Land of, Gen. xxii. 2 

Moriah, Mount, 2 Chron. iii. 1 

Mosera, Wady Mtisa? Deut. x. 6 

Moseroth, Numb, xxxiii. 30, 31 

Mozah, B. Josh, xviii. 26 

Mules, Gen. xxxvi. 24, very probably Callirhroe, " Hot 

Springs" 

Myra, id., Acts xxvii. 5 

Mysia, Acts xvi. 7, 8 



Naamah, J. Josh. xv. 41 31 44 

Naaran, E. 1 Chron. vii. 28 32 2 

Naarath, E. Naaran? Josh. xvi. 7 j 32 



N. Lat. 


E. Long. 


3 1 


° 4 6' 


35 


3 i8' 


38 


30 


37 





3 1 


55 


35 


55 


3 1 


35 


35 


45 


32 


5° 


35 


5 


33 


38 


35 


28 


30 


2 5 


32 


40 


39 


9 


26 


30 


32 


32 


36 


2 


3 1 


36 


34 


48 



31 48 

3 1 20 
33 20 



31 22 

31 12 

32 14 
32 33 

3 1 47 

31 48 

31 46 

30 24 

29 54 

31 50 

3 1 37 

36 14 

39 20 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



583 



Nahalal, L.Z. Josh. xix. 15 ;* xxi. 35 

Nahaliel, Numb. xxi. 19, 19 

Nahalol, Judges i. 30 

Nain, Nein, Luke vii. 11 

Naioth, "in Raman," 1 Sam. xix. 18, 19, 22, 23, 23 ; xx. l.f 

Naphtuhim, Gen. x. 13 

Nazareth, En-Nazirdh, Matt. ii. 23 ; iv. 13 ; xxi. 11 ; xxvi. 

71 ; Mark i. 9, 24 ; x. 47 ; xiv. 67 ; xvi. 6 ; Luke i. 26 ; 

ii. 4, 39, 51; iv. 16, 34 ; xviii. 37 ; xxiv. 19 ; John i. 

45, 46 ; xviii. 5, 7 ; xix. 19; Acts ii. 22 ; iii. 6 ; iv. 10; 

vi. 14; x. 38; xxii. 8; xxvi. 9 

Neah, Z. Josh. xix. 13 

Neapolis (Neapolis), Kavalla, Acts xvi. 11 

Neballat, Beit-Nebala, Neh. xi. 34 

Nebo, R. Numb, xxxii. 3, 38; xxxiii. 47; 1 Chron. v. 8 ; 

Ezra ii. 29 ; x. 43 ; Neh. vii. 33 ; Isaiah xv. 2 ; Jer. 

xlviii. 1, 22 

Nebo, Mount, Deut. xxxii. 49 ; xxxiv. 1 

Neiel, A. Josh. xix. 27 

Nekeb, N. Josh. xix. 33 

Nephthalim, Naphtali, Matt. iv. 13, 15 

Nephtoah, Waters of, 'Ain Tdlo, Josh. xv. 9; xviii. 15$..'. 

Netophah, J. Ezra ii. 22 ; Neh. vii. 26 

Nezib, J. Beit Nusib, Josh. xv. 43 

Nibshan, J. Josh. xv. 62 

Nicopolis, Titus iii. 12 

Nimrah, Nimrhi, Numb, xxxii. 3 

Nimrah, G. See Beth-Nimrah. 

Nimrim, Nimrah, Nimrin, Isaiah xv. 6 ; Jer. xlviii. 34 

Nineveh (Ninus), Nimr'tid, Gen. x. 11, 12; 2 Kings xix. 36; 

Isaiah xxxvii. 37 ; Jonah i. 2 ; iii. 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 ; iv. 

11 ; Nahum i. 1 ; ii. 8 ; iii. 7 ; Zeph. ii. 13 ; Matt. xii. 

41; Luke xi. 32 

No (Thebes?), Karnak, Luxor, &c, Jer. xlvi. 25 ; Ezek. 

xxx. 14, 15, 16 ; Nahum iii. 8 

Nob, B. 1 Sam. xxi. 1 ; xxii. 9, 11, 19 ; Neh. xi. 32; Isaiah 

x. 32 

Nod, Gen. iv. 16 

Noph, (Memphis), Mitrahenny, Isaiah xix. 13 ; Jer. ii. 16 ; 

xliv. 1 ; xlvi. 14, 19; Ezek. xxx. 13, 16 

Nophah, Numb. xxi. 30 

Oboth, Numb. xxi. 10, 11 ; xxxiii. 43, 44 

On, Aven, or Beth-shemesh (Heliopolis), Matarieh, Gen. xli. 

45, 50 . 

Ono, B. 1 Chron. viii. 12 ; Ezra ii. 33 ; Neh. vii. 37 ; xi. 35. 

Ono, Plain of, Neh. vi. 2 

Ophel, part of Jerusalem, 2 Chron. xxvii. 3; xxxiii. 14; 

Neh. iii. 26, 27; xi. 21 



3 2 °44 / 

31 50 

3 2 44 

32 40 

3i 48 
31 o 



3 2 43 
32 51 
40 58 
3i 5 2 



31 40 

3 1 5 

33 3 

33 

33 o 

3 1 45 

31 46 

31 32 

3 1 4 2 

39 2 

3 r 56 

3 1 5 6 



36 20 

25 42 

31 32 

36 o 

29 51 
3 1 5 2 

30 20 



3 1 46 ! 35 



* In the English trans, spelled Naballal. One I is correct, otherwise it is a misprint, 
f Probably signified only certain prophets' " dwellings." See Ramathaim-Zophim in the text, 
page 512. 

% In the first passage "water of" occurs in the English trans. The word should be waters in 
both instances. 



584 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Ophir (Arabia Felix?), Yemen? Gen. x. 29; 1 Kings ix. 28 
x. 11, 11 ; xxii. 48 ; 1 Chron. i. 23 ; xxix. 4 ; 2 Chron 
viii. 18 ; ix. 10 ; Job xxii. 24 ; xxviii. 16 ; Psalm xiv 
9 ; Isaiah xiii. 12 

Ophni, Josh, xviii. 24 

Ophrah, Et-Taiyibeli ? Josh, xviii. 23; 1 Sam. xiii. 17 

Ophrah, Judges vi. 11, 24; viii. 27, 32; ix. 5 

Oreb, Rock of, Judges vii. 25 ; Isaiah x. 26 



Padan, Gen. xlviii. 7. See Padan-Aram. 

Padan-aram (Mesopotamia), Al-JezireJi, Gen. xxv. 20; 

xxviii. 2, 5, 6, 7 ; xxxi. 18 ; xxxiii. 18 ; xxxV. 9, 26 ; 

xlvi. 15 

Pai, 1 Chron. i. 50 

Palestina, Palestine, Exod. xv. 14; Isaiah xiv. 29, 31; 

Joel iii. 4 

Pa let. See Beth-Palet. 

Pamphylia, Karamania, part of, Acts ii. 10 ; xiii. 13 ; xiv. 

24 ; xv. 38 ; xxvii. 5 

Paphos, Baffo, Acts xiii. 6, 13 

Parah, Josh, xviii. 23 , 

Paran, Wilderness of, Et-Tih, Gen. xxi. 21 ; Numb. x. 12 ; 

xii. 16 ; xiii. 3, 26 ; Deut. i. 1 ; xxxiii. 2 : 1 Sam. xxv. 

1 ; 1 Kings xi. 18, 18 ; Habakkuk iii. 3 

Paran. See El-Paran. 

Parez. See Rimmon Parez. 

Parvaim, 2 Chron. iii. 6 

Pas-dam mi m, Ephes-Dammim, 1 Chron. xi. 13 

Patara (Patara), Acts xxi. 1 

Pathros (Thebais), The Said, Isaiah xi. 11 ; Jer. xliv. 1, 15; 

Ezek. xxix. 14; xxx.14 

Patmos, Patino, Revelation i. 9 

Pau, Gen. xxxvi. 39 

Pazzez. See Beth-Pazzez. 

Pekod (Babylonia?) Irak-Arabi? Jer. 1.21 

Peniel, Gen. xxxii. 31* 

Penuel, Gen. xxxii. 30 ; Judges viii. 8, 8, 9, 17 ; 1 Kings 

xii. 25 

Peor, Numb, xxiii. 28 

Peor. See Beth-Peor. 
Perazim. See Baal-Perazim. 

Perez-Uzzah, 2 Sam. vi. 8 ; 1 Chron. xiii. 11 

Perga (Perge), Acts xiii. 13, 14; xiv. 25 

Pergamos, Bergamo, Revelation i. 11 ; ii. 12 

Perizzites, Gen. xiii. 7 ; xv. 20 ; xxxiv. 30 ; Exodus iii. 8, 

17 ; xxiii. 23 ; xxxiii. 2 ; xxxiv. 11 ; Deut. vii. 1 ; 

xx. 17 ; Josh. iii. 10; ix. 1; xi. 3; xii. 8; xvii. 15; 

xxiv. 11 ; Judges i. 4, 5 ; iii. 5 ; 1 Kings ix. 20 ; 

2 Chron. viii. 7 ; Ezra ix. 1 ; Neh. ix. 8 

Persia, 2 Chron. xxxvi. 20, 22, 23 ; Ezra i. 1, 1, 2, 8 ; iii. 7 ; 

iv. 3, 5, 5, 7, 24; vi. 14: vii. 1 ; ix. 9 ; Esther i. 3, 14, 



N. Lat. E. Long. 



13" O' 
3 1 54 

3 1 57 

32 24 
32 26 



37 





39 ° 


29 


5° 


35 20 


3 1 


40 


34 45 



37 ° 
34 46 
3i 55 



30 



3 1 49 
3 6 55 
39 4 



32 1 



*3 





45 





3 1 


4 1 


34 


59 


36 


16 


29 


2 3 


26 





3 2 


30 


37 


20 


26 


3 3 


29 


5° 


35 


20 


3* 


30 


44 


30 


y- 


*5 


35 


47 


32 




35 


47 


3 1 


47 


35 


47 



* Probably the same as Penuel, though different in the Hebi-ew. In the next verse Penuel occurs 
with a preceding particle, which indicates a reference to Peniel preceding. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



585 



18; x. 2 ; Ezek. xxvii. 10; xxxviii. 5; Daniel viii. 20; 

x. 1, 13, 13, 20; xi. 2 

Pethor, Numb. xxii. 5 ; Deut. xxiii. 4 

Pharphar, River Awaj, 2 Kings v. 12 

Phalet. See Beth-Palet. 

Phenice, Phenicia (Phoenice), Acts xi. 19; xv. 3 ; xxi. 2... 

Phenice (Phoenix Prom.), SphaJcia, Acts xxvii. 12 

Philadelphia, AUah-Shehr, Revelation i. 11 ; iii. 7 

Philippi, Filibi, Acts xvi. 12 ; xx. 6 ; Philip, i. 1 ; 1 Thess. 

ii. 2 

Philistia, Psalm lx. 8 ; lxxxvii. 4; cviii. 9 

Philistines, Gen. x. 14; xxi. 32, 34; xxvi. 1, 8, 14, 15, 

18 ; Exod. xiii. 17 ; xxiii. 31 ; Josh. xiii. 2, 3 ; Judges 

iii. 3, 31 : x. 6, 7, 11 ; xiii. 1, 5 ; xiv. 1, 2, 3, 4, 4 ; xv. 

3, 5, 6, 6, 9, 11, 12, 14, 20; xvi. 5, 8, 9, 12, 14, 18, 18, 

20, 21, 23, 27, 28, 30 ; 1 Sam. iv. 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 6, 7, 9, 
10, 17; v. 1, 2, 8, 11; vi. 1, 2, 4, 12, 16, 17, 18, 21; 
vii. 3, 7, 7, 7, 8, 10, 10, 11, 13, 13, 14, 14; ix. 16; x. 
5 ; xii. 9 ; xiii. 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 11, 12, 16, 17, 19, 20, 23 ; 
xiv. 1, 4, 11, 11, 19, 21, 22, 30, 31, 36, 37, 46, 46, 47, 
52 : xvii. 1, 2, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11, 16, 19, 21, 23, 23, 26, 26, 
32, 33, 36, 37, 40, 41, 42, 43. 43, 44, 45. 46, 48, 48, 49, 
50, 50, 51, 51, 52, 52, 53, 54, 55, 57, 57; xviii. 6, 17, 

21, 25, 25, 27, 30 ; xix. 5, 8 ; xxi. 9 : xxii. 10 ; xxiii. 
1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 27, 28 : xxiv. 1 ; xxvii. 1, 7, 11 ; xxviii. 
1, 4, 5, 15, 19, 19 ; xxix. 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 7, 9, 11, 11 ; 
xxx. 16; xxxii. 1, 1, 2, 2, 7, 8, 9, 11 ; 2 Sam. i. 20; 
iii. 14, 18 ; v. 17, 17, 18, 19, 19, 22, 24, 25 ; viii. 1, 1, 
12; xix. 9; xxi. 12, 12, 15, 15. 17, 18, 19; xxiii. 
9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16 ; 1 Kings iv. 21 ; xv. 27 : 
xvi. 15; 2 Kings viii. 2, 3; xviii. 8 ; 1 Chron. i. 12; 
x. 1, 1, 2, 2, 7, 8, 9, 11 ; xi. 13, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18 ; xii. 
19, 19 ; xiv. 8, 8, 9, 10, 13, 15, 16 ; xviii. 1, 1, 11 ; xx. 

4, 5 ; 2 Chron. ix. 26 ; xvii. 11 ; xxi. 16 ; xxvi. 6, 6, 7 ; 
xxviii. 18; Psalm lvi. title; Isaiah ii. 6; ix. 12; xi. 
14; Jer. xxv. 20; xlvii. 1, 4, 4; Ezek. xvi. 27, 57; 
xxv. 15, 16; Amos i. 8; vi. 2; ix. 7; Obadiah 19; 
Zeph. ii. 5 ; Zech. ix. 6 

Phut, Put (Libya?), Barbaryf Ezek. xxvii. 10; Nahum 
iii. 9 

Phrygia, Acts ii. 10 ; xvi. 6 : xviii. 23 

Pi-Beseth (Bubastis), Tell Basta, Ezek. xxx. 17 

Pi-Hahiroth, Exod. xiv. 2, 9 ; Numb, xxxiii. 7, 8 

Pirathon, E. Judges xii. 15 

Pisgah, Numb. xxi. 20; xxiii. 14; Deut. iii. 17,* 27; iv. 49; 
xxxiv. 1 ; Josh. xii. 3 ;* xiii. 20* 

Pisidia, Acts xiii. 14; xiv. 24 

Pison, River (Phasis, R. ?), Pliaz or Rionif Gen. ii. 11 

Pithom (Thoum, or Patumos ?), Tell el-Keblr? Exod. 
i.ll 

Place, Absalom's, Tomb of Absalom, 2 Sam. xviii. 18 

Plain of the Vineyards (Abila), AMI, Judges xi. 33 

Pontus, Acts ii. 9 ; xviii. 2 ; 1 Peter i. 1 



N. Lat. 

30 o / 
33 2 3 
3 3 3 7 

3 3 4o 
35 14 
38 22 

41 2 
31 40 



31 40 

30 o 
39 
3° 35 

30 4 

32 14 

31 40 

3 1 5 1 

42 10 



E. Long. 

53° o' 
36 30 

3 6 J 5 

35 3° 
24 13 
28 37 

24 20 
34 45 



34 45 



I o o 
32 o 

21 25 
32 28 

35 10 

35 39 
35 45 
42 o 



30 29 31 41 

31 46 35 19 

3 2 43 35 54 

40 30 : 37 o 



Ashdoth Pisgah signifies "the roots" or "spurs" of Pisgah. 
37* 



586 



THE GEOGEAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Ptolemais, Akka, or Acre, Acts xxi. 7*. 

Pul. Assyria? Isaiah lxvi. 19 

Punon, Numb, xxxiii. 42, 43 

Put. See Phut, 

Puteoli, Puzzuoli, Acts xxviii. 13 



N. Lat, ! E. Long. 

3 2 °55 / 35° 3' 



36 



44 



Raamah (Arabia, part of?), Ezek. xxvii. 22 

Raanises, Rameses, Exod. i. 11 

Rabbah, or Rabbath, of Amnion (Philadelphia), 'Amman, 
Deut, iii. 11 ; Josh. xiii. 25 ; 2 Sam. xi. 1 ; xii. 26, 27, 
29 ; xvii. 27 ; 1 Chron. xx. 1, 1 ; Jer. xlix. 2, 3 ; Ezek. 

xxi. 20 ; xxv. 5 ; Amos i. 14 '. 

Rabbah, J. Josh. xv. 60 

Rabbi m. See Bath-Rabbim. 

Rabbith, I. Josh. xix. 20 

Rachal, J. 1 Sam. xxx. 29 

Rahab (the Delta), Lower Egypt, Psalm lxxxvii. 4; lxxxix. 

10; Isaiah li. 9 

Rakkath, N. Josh. xix. 35 

Rakkox, D. Josh. xix. 46 , 

Rama, Ramah? Er-Rdm? Matt. ii. 18 

Ramah, Er-Ram, Josh, xviii. 25; Judges iv. 5; xix. 13; 

1 Sam. xxii. 6 ; 1 Kings xv. 17, 21, 22 ; 2 Chron. xvi. 
1, 5, 6 ; Ezra ii. 26 ; Neh. vii. 30 ; xi. 33 ; Isaiah x. 
29 ; Jer. xxxi. 15 ; xl. 1 ; Hosea v. 8 

Ramah, A. Josh. xix. 29 

Ramah, N. Er-Rdmeh, Josh. xix. 36 

Ramah, Ramathaim-Zophim, Soba? 1 Sam. i. 19 ; ii. 11 ; 
vii. 17; viii. 4; xv. 34; xvi. 13; xix. 18, 19, 22, 22, 
23, 23 ; xx. 1; xxv. 1; xxviii. 3 

Ramah, Ramoth-Gilead, 2 Kings viii. 29 ; 2 Chron. xxii. 6. 

Ramath, Josh, xix: 8 

Ramath-lehi, Judges xv. 17 

Ramath-mizpeh, Ramoth-Gilead, Josh. xiii. 26 

Ramathaim-zophim, or Ramah, Soba? 1 Sam. i. 1 

Rameses, Gen. xlvii. 11 ; Exod. xii. 37 ; Numb, xxxiii. 3, 5. 

Ramoth in Gilead, or Ramoth-Gilead, JeVad and JeVud, 
Deut, iv. 43 ; Josh. xx. 8 ; xxi. 38 ; 1 Kings iv. 13 ; 

xxii. 3, 4, 6, 12, 15, 20, 29 ; 2 Kings viii. 28 ; ix. 1, 4, 
14; 1 Chron. vi. 80 ; 2 Chron. xviii. 2, 3, 5, 14, 19, 28; 
xxii. 5 

Ramoth, or Ramath, S. 1 Sam. xxx. 27 

Ramoth, L.I. Remeth, or Jarmuth? 1 Chron. vi. 73 

Rapha. See Beth-Rapha. 

Red Sea (Erythraean Sea). Red Sea, Deut. i. 1 : Numb. xxi. 

14 ; Acts vii. 36; Hebrews xi. 29 

Rehob. See Beth-Rehob. 

Rehob, L.A. Numb. xiii. 21 ; Josh. xix. 28, 30 ; xxi. 31 ; 

2 Sam. viii. 3, 12 ; x. 8 ; 1 Chron. vi. 75 ; Neh. x. 11.. 

Rehoboth, Gen. x. 11 

Rehoboth, Er-RaJiabah? Gen. xxxvi. 37 
Rehoboth, Gen. xxvi. 22 



1 Chron. i. 48.,.. 



2 5 





35 


33 


AO 


CO 


1 ± 
4 


g 


2 5 





5° 





30 


35 


3 1 


59 


3. 


57 


36 





3 1 


49 


35 


6 


3 2 


38 


35 


20 


3 1 


17 


35 


10 


3 1 





3 1 





3 2 


42 


35 


35 


3 1 


5 3 


34 


49 


3 1 


5 2 


35 


*9 


3 1 


5 2 


35 


J 9 


33 


2 5 


35 


2 7 


32 


59 


35 


21 


3 1 


48 


35 


8 


3 2 


9 


35 


4> 


3 1 


3 


34 


18 


3 1 


3 2 


34 


40 


3 2 


9 


35 


48 


3 1 


46 


35 


1 2 


30 


35 


3* 


59 




4 


35 


47 


i: 


3 


34 


18 


3 2 


3 2 


35 


1 1 


29 





33 





33 


2 3 


35 


4i 


36 





43 


3° 


35 





40 


29 


3 1 


| 


34 


40 



* See Accho. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



587 



Rekem, B. Josh, xviii. 27 

Reueth, Ramoth, or Jarmuth? Josh. xix. 21 

Remmon. See Rimmon. 

Remmon-methoar, or Rimmon, Rummdneh, Josh. xix. 13... 
Rephaim, J. See Valley of the Giants. 
Rephaims, Gen. xiv. 5 ; xv. 20 ; Deut. ii. 11, 20, 20 ; iii. 11, 
13 ; Josh. xii. 4 ; xiii. 12 ; xvii. 15 ; xviii. 16 ; Isaiah 

Xvii. 5* 

Rephidim, in Wddy Sheikh? Exod. xvii. 1, 8 : xix. 2 

Resen (Larissa?) Gen. x. 12 

Rezeph (Resapha), Resafah, 2 Kings xix. 12; Isaiah 

xxxvii. 12 

Rhegium, Reggio, Acts xxviii. 13 

Rhodes (Rhodus), Rhodes, Acts xxi. 1 

Riblah, Numb, xxxiv. 11 

Riblah, Ribleh, 2 Kings xxiii. 33; xxv. 6, 20, 21; Jer. 

xxxix. 5, 6 ; lii. 9, 10, 26, 27 

Rimmon, S. Josh. xv. 32 ; xix. 7 ;f Zech. xiv. 10 

Rimmon, Z. Remmon-Methoar, Rummdneh, 1 Chron. vi. 77. 

Rimmon, Rummdn, Judges xx. 45, 47, 47 ; xxi. 13 

Rimmon. See En-Rimmon. 
Rimmon. See Gath-Rimmon. 

Rimmon-Parez, Numb, xxxiii. 19, 20 

Rissah, Numb, xxxiii. 21, 22 

Rithmah, Numb, xxxiii. 18, 19 

Rogel. See En-Rogel, near Jerusalem. 

Rogelim, 2 Sam. xvii. 27 ; xix. 31 

Rome (Roma), Rome, Acts ii. 10; xviii. 2; xix. 21; xxiii. 

11 ; xxviii. 14, 16 ; Romans i. 7, 15 ; 2 Tim. i. 17 

Rumah, 2 Kings xxiii. 36 

Sabeans, Ezek. xxiii. 42; Isaiah xiv. 14; Job i. 15; Joel 

iii. 8 

Sahadutha. See Jegar-Sahadutha. 

Salamis (Salamis), Costanza, Acts xiii. 5 

Salcah, Salchah, Sirfkhad, Deut. iii. 10 ; Josh. xii. 5 ; xiii. 

11 ; 1 Chron. v. 11 

Salem, Jerusalem ? Gen. xiv. 18 ; Psalm lxxvi. 2 ; Heb. vii. 

1, 2 

Salim, John iii. 23 

Salmon. See Zalmon. 

Salmone (Salmonium Prom.), C. Salmone, Acts xxvii. 7... 

Salt, City of, Josh. xv. 62 

Salt Sea, Gen. xiv. 3 ; Numb, xxxiv. 12 ; Deut. iii. 17 ; 

Josh. iii. 16 ; xii. 3 ; xv. 2, 5 ; xviii. 19 

Salt, Valley of. See Valley of Salt. 

Samaria (Sebaste), Sebustieh, 1 Kings xiii. 32 ; xvi. 24, 24, 
28, 29, 32 ; xviii. 2 ; xx. 1, 10, 17, 34, 43 ; xxi. 1, 18 ; 
xxii. 10, 37, 37, 38, 51 ; 2 Kings i. 2, 3 ; ii. 25 ; iii. 1, 



N. Lat. 

3'V 

32 32 

32 48 



3 2 


45 


36 





28 


41 


34 


1 


3° 


7 


43 


T Q 

I 


35 


34 


38 


45 


38 


6 


J 5 


40 


30 


2 4 


28 


1 2 


33 


l 5 


35 


40 


34 


2 4 


36 


T Q 

I 8 


3 1 


26 


34 


53 


3 2 


48 


35 


1 


3 1 


55 


35 


2 X 


3° 


40 


34 


40 


30 


40 


34 


5 


30 


35 


35 


10 


3 2 


1 


35 


54 


4i 


53 


1 2 


2 7 


32 


14 


35 


l 9 


16 





45 





35 


1 1 


33 


57 


3 2 


29 


36 


5 1 


3 1 


47 


35 


1 3 


3 2 


26 


35 


33 


35 


9 


26 


20 


3 1 


35 


35 


2 3 


3 1 


45 


35 


26 


3 1 


6 


35 


38 



* Rephaim signifies " giants," and is so translated in several of the ahove passages ; hut the 
Hebrew is alike in all instances, hence the variation of translation is not in consistency with the 
uniformity of the original word. 

f Remmon in the English trans., but evidently a misprint, as the Hebrew is Remmon, as in the 
other passage. 



588 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



6 ; v. 3 ; vi. 19, 20, 20, 24, 25 ; vii. 1, 18 ; x. 1, 1, 12, 
17, 17, 35, 36 ; xiii. 1, 6, 9, 10, 13; xiv. 14, 16, 23 ; xv. 
8, 13, 14, 14, 17, 23, 25, 27 ; xvii. 1, 5, 6, 24, 24, 26, 
28 ; xviii. 9, 10, 34 ; xxi. 13 : xxiii. 18, 19 ; 2 Chron. 
xviii. 2, 9 ; xxii. 9 ; xxv. 13, 24 ; xxviii. 8, 9, 15 ; Ezra 
iv. 10, 17 ; Neh. iv. 2 ; Isaiah vii. 9, 9 ; viii. 4 ; ix. 9 ; 
x. 9, 10, 11 ; xxxvi. 19 ; Jer. xxiii. 13 ; xxxi. 5 ; xli. 5 ; 
Ezek. xvi. 46, 51, 53, 55; xxiii. 4, 33 ; Hosea vii. 1; 

viii. 5, 6 ; x. 5, 7 ; xiii. 16 ; Amos iii. 9, 12 ; iv. 1 ; vi. 
1 ; viii. 14 ; Obadiah 19 ; Micah i. 1,5,6; Luke xvii. 
11 ; John iv. 4, 5, 7, 9, 9, 9 ; Acts i. 8 ; viii. 1, 5, 9, 14; 

ix. 31 ; xv. 3 

Samos, Samo, Acts xx. 15 

Samothracia, Samothraki, Acts xvi. 11 

Sannah. See Kirjath-Sannah. 

Sansannah, J. Josh. xv. 31 

Saphir, Es-Saiv&fir, Micah i. 11 

Sardis, Sart, Rev. i. 11 ; iii. 1,4 

Sarepta, Zarephath (Sarepta), Surafend, Luke iv. 26 

Sarid, Josh. xix. 10, 12 

Saron, Sharon, Acts ix. 35 

Secacah, Josh. xv. 61 

Sechu, 1 Sam. xix. 22 '. 

Seir, Mount, Esh-Shcrah, Gen. xiv. 6 ; xxxii. 3 ; xxxiii. 14. 

16 ; xxxvi. 8, 9, 20, 21, 30 : Numb. xxiv. 18 ; Deut, i. 

2, 44 ; ii. 1, 4, 5, 8, 12, 22, 29 : xxxiii. 2 ; Josh. xi. 17; 

xii. 7; xv. 10; xxiv. 4; Judges v. 4 ; 1 Chron. i. 38; 

iv. 42; 2 Chron. xx. 10, 22, 23, 23; xxv. 11, 14; Isaiah 

xxi. 11 ; Ezek. xxv. 8 ; xxxv. 2, 3, 7, 15 

Seirath, Judges iii. 26 

Sela, Kir? (Charax?), Kerek? Isaiah xvi. 1 

Selah, or Joktheel (Petra), Wady Mdsa, 2 Kings xiv. 1 .... 

Sela-hammah-lekoth, 1 Sam. xxiii. 28 

Seleucia, Suadeiah, Acts xiii. 4 

Senaah, Ezra ii. 35 ; Neh. vii. 38. It is questionable 

whether this is the name of a town or of an individual. 

See Neh. iii. 3. 

Seneh, 1 Sam. xiv. 4 

Senir, Hermon? Jebel esli- Sheikh, 1 Chron. v. 23; Ezek. 

xxvii. 5 

Sephar (in Arabia?) Gen. x. 30 

Sepharad, Obed. 20 

Sepharvites, 2 Kings xvii. 31 

Sepharvaim (Siphara?), 2 Kings xvii. 24, 31; xviii. 34; xix. 

13 ; Isaiah xxxvi. 19 ; xxxvii. 13 

Sepher. See Kirjath-Sepher. 
Serah. See Timnath-Serah. 

Shaalabbin, D. or Shaalbim, Josh. xix. 42 ; Judges i. 35 ; 

1 Kings iv. 9 

Shaaraim, Josh. xv. 36 ; 1 Sam. xvii. 52 

Shaaraim, Sharuhen ? 1 Chron. iv. 31 

Shahar. See Zareth-Shahar. , 

Shahazimah, I. Josh. xix. 22 

Shalem, Sdlim, Gen. xxxiii. 18 

Shalim? 1 Sam. ix. 4 

Shalisha? 1 Sam. ix. 4 



37 45 
40 30 

31 22 
31 41 



30 15 
32 13 

31 15 

30 25 

31 25 
36 8 



3 1 53 

33 28 
15 o 
40 o 
33 10 



33 



3 1 43 

31 46 

31 25 

31 31 

3 2 x 5 

3 1 45 

3 2 7 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



589 



Shalisha. See Baal-Shalisha. 

Shallecheth, one of the Gates of the Temple, 1 Chron. 
xxvi. 16. 

Shamir, J. Josh. xv. 48 

Shamir, Sanitr? Judges x. 1, 2 

Shax. See Beth-Shan. 

Shapher, Mount (Mount Casius?), Has el-Kazaritn, Numb. 

xxxiii. 23, 24 

Sharox, or Lasharon, Josh. xii. 18 ; 1 Chron. v. 16 

Sharon, Plain of, 1 Chron. xxvii. 29 ; Song of Sol. ii. 1 ; 

Isaiah xxxiii. 9 ; xxxv. 2 ; lxv. 10 

Sharuhen, S. Sharaaim? Josh. xix. 6 

Shaveh, Valley of Jehoshaphat, Gen. xiv. 17 

Shaveh Kiriathaim, Gen. xiv. 5* 

She an. See Beth-Shean. 

Sheba (Arabia Felix?), Yemen? 1 Kings x. 1, 4, 10, 13; 

Job vi. 19 ; Psalm lxxii. 10, 15 ; Isaiah lx. 6 ; Jer. vi. 

20 ; Ezek. xxvii. 22, 23 ; xxxviii. 13 

Sheba, Beer-Sheba, Bir es-Seba, Josh. xix. 2 

Shebah, Beer-Sheba, Bir es-Seba, Gen. xxvi. 33 

Shebam, Shiftman, or Sibmah, Numb, xxxii. 3 

Shebarim, Josh. vii. 5 

Shechem (Neapolis), Nablous, Gen. xii. 6;f xxxiii. 18 ; xxxv. 

4; xxxvii. 12, 13, 14; Josh. xvii. 7 ; xx. 7 : xxi. 21 : 

xxiv. 1, 25, 32, 32 ; Judges viii. 31 ; ix. 1, 2, 3, 6, 6, 7'. 

18, 20, 20, 23, 23, 24, 25, 26, 26, 28, 28, 31, 34, 39, 41, 

46, 47, 49, 57 ; xxi. 19 ; 1 Kings xii. 1, 1, 25 ; 1 Chron. 

vi. 67 ; vii. 28 ; 2 Chron. x. 1, 1 ; Psalm lx. 6 ; cviii. 

7 ; Jer. xii. 5 

Shema, Josh. xv. 26 

Shemesh. See Beth-Shemesh. 
She mesh. See En-Shemesh. 
Shemesh. See Ir-Shemesh. 

Shex, 1 Sam. vii. 12 

Shexir, Hermon, Jebel esh-Sheikh, Deut. iii. 9 ; Song of 

Sol. iv. 8 

Shepham, Numb, xxxiv. 10, 11 

Sherah. See Uzzen-Sherah. 

Sheshach, Babylon, Jer. xxv. 26 ; li. 41 

Shibmah, Sibmah, Numb, xxxii. 38 ; Josh. xiii. 19 ; Isaiah 

xvi. 8, 9 ; Jer. xlviii. 32 

Shicrox, J. Josh. xv. 11.. 

Shihox, Josh. xix. 19 

Shihor, Sihor, River of Egypt, Wady el-Arish, Josh. xiii. 

3 ; 1 Chron. xiii. 5 J 

Shihor-libxath, A. Josh. xix. 26 

Shilhim, J. Josh. xv. 32 

Shiloah, Pool of Siloam? Isaiah viii. 6 



N. Lat. I E. Long. 



31-23' 

3 2 2 3 



31 8 

r~ 4 
r- 35 
3 1 50 

3 1 2 5 



35" °' 
35 H 



3 2 53 

34 55 

35 5 
34 47 



3 1 47 I 35 H 
3 1 47 35 5° 



15 o ! 45 o 

3 1 l 5 ' 34 5 1 

3 1 l S 34 5 1 

3i 46 35 53 

3 1 54 35 l 7 



32 15 I 35 20 
31 13 35 o 



3 1 


5 1 


35 


7 


33 


28 


35 


48 


33 


20 


35 


35 


32 


30 


44 


2 5 


3 1 


46 


35 


53 


3 1 


47 


34 


5 5 


3 2 


33 


35 


18 


3 1 





33 


5° 


33 


r 3 


35 


*5 


3 1 


2 7 


34 


38 


3 1 


46 


35 


18 



* Shaveh Kiriathaim, Gen. xiv. 5. Perhaps " Plain of Kiriathaim." Shaveh 



from a 



root signifying " he made plain." Tyndal, Coverdale, the Geneva and French Bibles, translate it 
thus. 

t Sichem in the English trans., but without authority, as the Hebrew in this as in the other 
passages is Shechem. 

% The variation of Shihor and Sihor in the English trans, has no authority, as the Hebrew is in 
both instances Shihor. 



590 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Shiloh, E. SeiMn, Josh, xviii. 1, 8. 9, 10 ; xix. 51 ; xxi. 2 ; 
xxii. 9, 12: Judges xviii. 31; xxi. 12, 19, 21, 21: 
1 Sam. i. 3, 9, 24; ii. 14; iii. 21, 21; iv. 3, 4, 12; 

xiv. 3 ; 1 Kings ii. 27 ; xiv. 2, 4 ; Psalm lxxviii. 60 ; 
Jer. vii. 12, 14; xxvi. 6, 9 : xli. 5 

Shiloh. See Taanath-Shiloh. 

Shimron, Josh. xi. 1 ; xix. 15 , 

Shimrox-merox, Z. Shimron, Josh. xii. 20 

Shinar (Babylonia), Irak-Arabi, Gen. x. 10; xi. 2; xiv. 1, 

9 : Josh. vii. 21 ; Isaiah xi. 11 ; Daniel i. 2 ; Zech. 

v. 11 

Shittah. See Beth-Shittah. 

Shittim, or Abel-Shittim, Numb. xxv. 1 ; xxxiii." 49 ; Josh. 

ii. 1 ; iii. 1 ; Joel iii. 18 ; Micah vi. 5 

Shocho, Shochoh. See Socoh 

SnoPHAX, G. See Atroth-Shophan. 

Shual, Land of, B. 1 Sam. xiii. 17 

Shual. See Hazar-Shual. 

Shunem, I. Solcim, Josh. xix. 18; 1 Sam. xxviii. 4; 2 Kings 

iv. 8 

Shur, J. Tell S~heria.il? Gen. xvi. 7; xx. 1; xxv. 18; Exod. 

xv. 22 ; 1 Sam. xv. 7 ; xxvii. 8 

Shushan (Susa), Stis, Neh. i. 1 ; Esther i. 2, 5 ; ii. 3, 5, 8 : 

iii. 15, 15 ; iv. 8. 16 ; viii. 14, 15 ; ix. 6, 11, 12, 13, 14, 
15, 15, 18 ; Daniel viii. 2 

Sibmah. See Shibmah. 

Sibraim, Ezek. xlvii. 16 

Siddim, Vale of, Dead Sea, Gen. xiv. 3, 8, 10 

Sidon, Zidon (Sidon), Saida, Gen. x. 19 ; xlix. 13 ; Josh. 

xi. 8 ; xix. 28 ; Judges i. 31 ; x. 6 ; xviii. 28 ; 2 Sam. 

xxiv. 6 ; 1 Kings xvii. 9 ; 1 Chron. i. 13 ; Isaiah xxiii. 

2, 4 ; Jer. xxv. 22 ; xxvii. 3 ; xlvii. 4 ; Ezek. xxvii. 8 ; 

xxviii. 21, 22 ; Joel iii. 4 ; Zech. ix. 2 ; Matt. xi. 21. 

22 ; xv. 21 ; Mark iii. 8 ; vii. 24, 31 ; Luke iv. 26 ; vi. 

17 ; x. 13, 14 ; Acts xii. 20 ; xxvii. 3 

Sihor. See Shihor. 

Sihor, R. Nile, Isaiah xxiii. 3 ; Jer. ii. 18 

Silla, near Jerusalem, 2 Kings xii. 20. 
Silo ah, Pool of, Siloam, Neh. iii. 15. 
Siloam, " Tower of," in Jerusalem, Luke xiii. 4. 
Siloam, "Pool of," 'Ain Silwan, in Jerusalem, John ix. 7. 
11. 

Sin, Wilderness of, Wady Mukatteb, Exod. xvi. 1 ; xvii. 1 ; 

Numb, xxxiii. 11, 12 

Sin (Pelusium?), Fardmef Ezek. xxx. 15, 16 

Sina, or Sinai, Mount, Jebel Musa, Exod. xvi. 1 ; xix. 1, 2, 

11, 18, 20, 23 ; xxiv. 16 ; xxxi. 18 ; xxxiv. 2, 4, 29, 

32; Levit. vii. 38, 38; xxv. 1; xxvi. 46; xxvii. 34; 

Numb. i. 1, 19 ; iii. 1, 4, 14 ; ix. 1, 5 ; x. 12 ; xxvi. 64; 

xxviii. 6 ; xxxiii. 15, 16 ; Deut. xxxiii. 2 ; Judges v. 5 ; 

Neh. ix. 13 ; Psalm lxviii. 8, 17 ; Acts vii. 30, 38 ; 

Gal. iv. 24, 25 ( 

Sinim (Persia?), Isaiah xlix. 12 

Sinites. Gen. x. 17 ; 1 Chron. i. 15 

Siox. See Zion. 

Siox, Mount, or Hermon, Sunniin? Deut. iv. 48 



N. Lat. E. Long. 



32° 6' 



35 °22' 



3 2 49 35 2 3 



3 2 49 



35 2 3 



32 10 1 44 30 



3 1 53 35 4° 
3 1 4i 35 4 



32 o 

3 2 3 7 

31 22 

31 58 



35 2 ° 

35 2 1 
34 5° 

48 26 



34 o 36 30 
3 1 3° 35 33 



33 34 
30 o 



28 50 
31 3 



35 22 
31 14 



33 2 4 
3226 



28 31 33 59 

30 o 55 o 

34 2 3 1 35 5 2 

33 28 ' 35 4° 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



591 



Siphuoth, J. 1 Sam. xxx. 28 

Sirah, Well of, 2 Sam. iii. 26 

Siriox, Mount, or Hermon, Jebel esh-Sheikh, Deut. iii. 9 ; 

Psalm xxix. 6 

Sitxah, (name of a well,) Gen. xxvi. 21 

Smyrna, id., Revelation i. 11 ; ii. 8 

Socoh, J. Sochoh, or Shochoh, Shuweikeh, Josh. xv. 35 ; 

1 Sam. xvii. 1,1:1 Kings iv. 10 ; 1 Chron. iv. 18 ; 

2 Chron. xi. 7 : xxviii. 18 

Socoh, Esh- Shuweikeh, Josh. xv. 48 

Sodom, Sodoma, Gen. x. 19 ; xiii. 10, 12, 13 ; xiv. 2, 8, 10, 

11, 12, 17, 21, 22; xviii. 16, 20, 22, 26; xix. 1, 1, 4, 
24, 28 : Deut. xxix. 23 ; xxxii. 32 ; Isaiah i. 9, 10 ; iii. 
9 ; xiii. 19 ; Jer. xxiii. 14 ; xlix. 18 ; 1. 40 ; Lamen- 
tations iv. 6 ; Ezek. xvi. 46, 48, 49, 53, 55, 56 ; Amos 
iv. 11 ; Zeph. ii. 9 : Matt. x. 15 ; xi. 23, 24; Mark vi. 
11 ; Luke x. 12 ; xvii. 29 ; Romans ix. 29 ; 2 Pet. ii. 6 : 
Jude 7 ; Revelation xi. 8 

Sorek, Valley of, Wady es-Surdr? Judges xvi. 4 

Spain (Hispania), Spain, Romans xv. 24, 28 

Succoth, G. Gen. xxxiii. 17, 17: Josh. xiii. 27 ; Judges viii. 
5, 6, 8, 14, 14, 15, 16 ; 1 Kings vii. 46 ; 2 Chron. iv. 
17 ; Psalm lx. 6 : cviii. 7* 

Succoth, Exod. xii. 37 ; xiii. 20; Numb, xxxiii. 5, 6 

Sukkiims, 2 Chron. xii. 3 

Sur, (a gate in Jerusalem,) 2 Kings xi. 6. 

Susah, S. See Hazar-Susah. 

Susim. See Hazar-Susim. 

Sychar, Shechem (Neapolis), Nablus, John iv. 5 

Sychem, L.E. Shechem (Neapolis), Nablus. Acts vii. 16 

Syene, Assouan, Ezek. xxix. 10 ; xxx. 6 

Syracuse (Syracusse), Siragusa,, Acts xxviii. 12 

Syria, Judges x. 6 ; 2 Sam. viii. 6, 12 ; xv. 8 ; 1 Kings x. 
29 ; xi. 25 ; xv. 18 ; xix. 15 : xx. 1, 20, 22, 23 ; xxii. 1, 
3, 31 ; 2 Kings v. 1, 1, 5 ; vi. 8, 11, 23, 24 ; vii. 5 ; viii. 
7, 9, 13, 28, 29; ix. 14, 15; xii. 17, 18; xiii. 3, 4, 7, 
17, 19, 19, 22. 24; xv. 37; xvi. 5, 6, 6, 7; 1 Chron. xviii. 
6 ; xix. 6 ;f 2 Chron. i. 17 ; xvi. 2, 7, 7 ; xviii. 10, 30 ; 
xx. 2 ; xxii. 5, 6 ; xxiv. 23 ; xxviii. 5, 23 ; Isaiah vii. 
1, 2, 4, 5, 8 ; xvii. 3 ; Ezek. xvi. 57 ; xxvii. 16 ; Hosea 
xii. 12 ; Amos i. 5 ; Matt. iv. 24 ; Luke ii. 2 ; Acts xv. 
23, 41 ; xviii. 18 ; xx. 3 ; xxi. 3 ; Gal. i. 21 



Taanach, L.M. Ta'annuk, Josh. xii. 21 ; xvii. 11 ; Judges 
i. 27 ; v. 19 : 1 Kings iv. 12 ; 1 Chron. vii. 29 



K. Lat. I K. Long. 

ji<W 35° r 
3 1 3° 35 5 

33 i7 ; 35 3 6 
3 1 7 ! 34 45 
38 26 27 9 



3 1 4 1 35 4 
3 1 2 5 35 3 



31 14 

31 52 
40 o 



32 21 
30 22 



32 14 

32 14 

24 6 

37 4 



35 28 
34 46 

5 (w) 



34 o 



35 i4 
35 i4 
3 2 55 



Tabbath. E. Judges vii. 22 

Taberah, Numb. xi. 3 ; Deut, ix. 22 

Tabor (Itabyrion), Josh. xix. 22; 1 Sam. x. 
77 



1 Chron. vi. 



32 


V- 


35 


17 


3 2 


14 


35 


8 


3 2 


2 1 


35 


34 


28 


45 


34 


18 


32 


42 


35 


2 5 



* The latitude and longitude according to Dr. Robinson is here adopted, though it is thought 
that Succoth of Genesis was east of the Jordan. See page 308. 
f Syria-Maachah, i.e. the Maachah of Syria. 



592 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Tabor, Mount, Jebel et-Ttir, Judges iv. 6, 12, 14 ; viii. 18 ; 

Psalm lxxxix. 12; Jer. xlvi. 18; Hosea v. 1 

Tabor, L.Z. See Aznoth-Tabor. 
Tabor. See Chisloth-Tabor. 

Tadmor (Palmyra), Tudmor, 1 Kings ix. 18; 2 Chron. viii. 4. 

Tahath, Numb, xxxiii. 26, 27 

Tahapanes, or Tahpanhes (Daphne), Tel Defenneh, Jer. ii. 

16 ; xliii. 7, 8, 9 ; xliy. 1 ; xlvi. 14 

Tahtim-Hodshi, 2 Sam. xxiv. 6 

Tamar, Hazezon-Tamar ? Ezek. xlvii. 19; xlviii. 28 

Tamar. See Baal-Tamar. 
Tamar. See Hazazon-Tamar. 

Tanach, Taanach, Ta'annak, Josh. xxi. 25 ". 

Tappuah, Josh. xii. 17 ; xv. 34 

Tappuah, Josh. xvi. 8 ; xvii. 8, 8 

Tappuah. See Beth-Tappuah. 
Tappuah. See En-Tappuah. 

Tarah, Numb, xxxiii. 27, 28 

Taralah, B. Josh, xviii. 27 

Tarshish, Tharshish, (Tartessus or Gades ?) Cadiz? 1 Kings 

x. 22. 22 ; xxii. 48 ; 1 Chron. i. 7 : vii. 10 ; 2 Chron. 

ix. 21, 21 : xx. 36, 37 ; Esther i. 14; Psalm xlviii. 7; 

lxxii. 10; Isaiah ii. 16 ; xxiii. 1, 6. 10, 14; lx. 9 ; lxvi. 

19 ; Jer. x. 9 ; Ezekiel xxvii. 25; xxxviii. 13 ; Jonah 

i. 3, 3, 3 ; iv. 2 

Tarsus, Tarstis, Acts ix. 11, 30; xi. 25 ; xxi. 39 ; xxii. 3... 

Tahaphnehes, Tehapanes, or Hanes, Ezek. xxx. 18 

Tekoa, J. Tekoah, Teku'a, 2 Sam. xiv. 2, 4, 9 ; 1 Chron. ii. 24 ; 

iv. 5 ; 2 Chron. xi. 6 : xx. 20 ; Jer. vi. 1 : Amos 

i. 1 

Tel-Abib, Thal-labba ? Ezek. iii. 15 

Tel-Haresha, Tel-Harsa (Tisalphata ?), Ezra ii. 59: Neh. 

vii. 61 

Tel-Melah, Ezra ii. 59 ; Neh. vii. 61 

Telaim, J. Telem, 1 Sam. xv. 4 

Telassar, Thelasar (Assyria?), 2 Kings xix. 12; Isaiah 

xxxvii. 12 

Telem. Josh. xv. 24 

Tema (Idumaea), Job vi. 19 ; Isaiah xxi. 14; Jer. xxv. 23.. 
Teman (Idumaea), Jer. xlix. 7, 20 ; Ezek. xxv. 13 ; Amos i. 

12; Obad. 9; Hab. iii. 3 

Tharshish. See Tarshish. 

Thebez, Tubas, Judges ix. 50, 50; 2 Sam. xi. 21 ! 

Thessalonica, Saloniki, Acts xvii. 1, 11, 13: xxvii. 2 ; Phil, j 

iv. 16; 2 Tim. iv. 10 

Three Taverns (Tres Tabernse), Acts xxviii. 15 ! 

Thyatira, Ak-hissar, Acts xvi. 14; Bev. i. 11 ; ii. 18, 24.... 
Tiberias, Tabarieli* John vi. 23 | 

Tiberias, Sea of, Balir Tubarieli,^ John vi. 1 ; xxi. 1.... 

Tibhath, or Betah (Emesa?), Hums? 1 Chron. xviii. 8. 
Timnah, J. Timnath, TibneJi, Gen. xxxviii. 12, 13, 14; 



N. Lat. ', E. Long. 



34 


18 


38 


H 


3° 


30 


3 2 


5° 


3° 


5 3 


3 2 


3 


33 





35 


45 


3 1 


2 9 


35 


2 7 



32 31 I 35 17 

3 1 45 35 

3 2 15 35 2 9 



30 28 ; 32 40 

3 1 57 ' 35 21 



36 


30 


6 


20 


36 


54 


34 


58 


30 


53 


3 2 


3 


3 1 


38 


35 


19 


36 


3° 


40 


40 


36 


9 


43 


1 2 


36 





44 





3 1 




34 


57 


37 





43 





3 1 


14 


34 


57 


3° 




35 


30 


3° 


15 


35 


30 


3 2 


2 2 


35 


2 7 


40 


40 


22 


56 


4 1 


39 




49 


38 


53 


2 7 


55 


3 2 


46 


35 


33 


3 2 


54 


35 


40 


3 2 


4 2 


35 


3 2 


34 


5° 


36 


39 



* Exact Lat. 32° 46' 14". f South end, Lat. 32° 42' 21", Long. 35° 35' 19" : north end. 

32° 53' 37", length 12 miles, 7 furlongs, 484 feet. See page 255 text. 



I 




[ 

[ 




J 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



593 



Josh. xv. 10, 57 ; xix. 43 ; Judges xiv. 1, 1, 2, 5, 5 ; 

2 Chron. xxviii. 18 

Timnath-Heres, Judges ii. 9 

Timnath-Serah, or Timnath-Heres, Josh. xix. 50; xxiv. 30. 

Tiphsah (Thapsacus), Ed-Deir ? 1 Kings iv. 24 

Tiphsah, 2 Kings xv. 16 

Tiras (Thracia?), Gen. x. 2 ; 1 Chron. i. 5 

Tirzah, Josh. xii. 24 ; 1 Kings xiv. 17 ; xv. 21, 33 ; xvi. 6, 

8, 9, 9, 15, 17, 23 ; 2 Kings xv. 14, 16 ; Song of Sol. 

vi. 4 

Tob, Ish-Tob, Judges xi. 3, 5 

Tochen, J. 1 Chron. iv. 32 

Togarmah (Armenia?), Gen. x. 3 ; 1 Chron. i. 6; Ezek. 

xxvii. 14 ; xxxviii. 6 

Toiad, El-Tolad, 1 Chron. iv. 29 

Tophel, Kibroth-Hattaavah ? Deut. i. 1 

Tophet, Topheth, Valley of Hinnom, S. of Jerusalem, 

2 Kings xxiii. 10 ; Isaiah xxx. 33 ; Jer. vii. 31, 32, 32; 

xix. 6, 11, 12, 13, 14 

Tower of Edar, Gen. xxxv. 21 

Tower of the Flock, Micah iv. 8 

Tracheitis, El-Lejah, and Jebel Hauran, Luke iii. 1 

Troas (Alexandria Troas), Eski Stamboid, Acts xvi. 8, 11; 

xx. 5, 6 ; 2 Cor. ii. 12 ; 2 Tim. iv. 13 

Trogy Ilium (Trogy Ilium Prom.), Cape St. Mary, Acts xx. 

15 

Tyre, Tyrus (Tyrus), Stir, Josh. xix. 29 ; 2 Sam. v. 11 ; 
xxiv. 7 ; 1 Kings v. ,1; vii. 13; ix. 11, 12; 1 Chron. 
xiv. 1 ; 2 Chron. ii. 3, 11 ; Psalm xiv. 12 ; lxxxiii. 7 ; 
lxxxvii. 4; Isaiah xxiii. 1, 5, 8, 15, 15, 17 ; Jer. xxv. 
22; xxvii. 3 ; xlvii. 4; Ezek. xxvi. 2, 3, 4, 7, 15; xxvii. 
2, 3, 3, 8,-32; xxviii. 2, 12 ; xxix. 18, 18 ; Hoseaix. 13; 
Joel iii. 4 ; Amos i. 9, 10 ; Zech. ix. 2, 3 ; Matt. xi. 21, 
22 ; xv. 21 ; Mark iii. 8 ; vii. 24, 31 : Luke vi. 17 ; x. 13, 
14; Acts xii. 20; xxi. 3, 7 

Ulai, River of (R. Euloeus), E. Sliaptir, Dan. viii. 2, 16 

Ummah, A. Josh. xix. 30 

Uphaz, Ophir (Arabia Felix?), Yemen? Jer. x. 9; Dan. x. 5. 
Ur (Edessa or Callirhoe), Urfah, Gen. xi. 28, 31; xv. 7; 

Neh. ix. 7 

Uz, Land of (Ausitis?), Job i. 1 ; Jer. xxv. 20 : Lament, iv. 

21 

Uzzah. See Perez-Uzzah. 

Uzzen-Sherah, Timnath-Serah, 1 Chron. vii. 24 

Valley of Achor, Josh. vii. 24, 26; xv. 7 ; Isaiah lxv. 10; 
Hosea ii. 15 

Valley of Berachah, BereikM, 2 Chron. xx. 26, 26 

Valley of the Giants, Valley of Rephairm S.W. of Jeru- 
salem, Josh. xv. 8 ; xviii. 16 ; 2 Sam. v. 18, 22 ; xxiii. 
13 ; 1 Chron. xi. 15 ; xiv. 9 ; Isaiah xvii. 5.. ; 

Valley of Keziz, Wady Kelt? Josh, xviii. 21 

Valley of Rephaiji. See Valley of the Giants. 



N. Lat. 

3i°45 / 
32 6 
32 1 

35 21 
32 21 
42 o 



E. Long. 



32 


18 


35 


20 


33 





36 





3 1 


18 


34 4 1 


39 





43 





3 1 


1 


34 


59 


28 


43 


34 


18 


31 46 


35 


18 


3 1 


38 


35 


1 2 


3 1 


38 


35 


1 2 


32 


5° 


36 


40 


39 


45 


26 


1 1 


37 


40 


2 7 






33 18 



35 



31 40 48 35 
33 12 35 21 
45 



13 o 

37 9 



38 5: 



30 20 35 30 
32 6 35 5 



31 50 
3 1 39 



31 46 
3 1 50 



35 18 
35 34 



594 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



Valley of Salt, El-Ghor, 2 Sam. viii. 13 ; 2 Kings xiv. 7 
1 Chron. x viii. 12 ; 2 Chron. xxv. 11 ; Psalm lx. title.. 

Valley of Slaughter, Jer. vii. 32; xix. 6..., 

Valley of Vision, near Jerusalem ? Isaiah xxii. 1, 5. 
Vineyards, Plain of the (Abila), Abil Judges xi. 33 



Watch Tower. See Mizpeh. 

Waters of Nephtoah, [Ain Yolo, Josh. xv. 9 ; .xviii. 15.... 

Waters of Strife, Meribah-Kadesh, Ezek. xlvii. 19 

Well Lahai-Roi. See Lahai-Roi. 

Well of Harod, Fountain of Jezreel? Tubania, 'Ain 
Jtdud? Judges vii. 1 



Zaanaim, N. Josh. xix. 33 ; Judges iv. 11 

Zaanan, or Zenan? Micah i. 11 

Zaananntm. See Zaanaim. 

Zabulon, Zebulun, Tribe of, Josh. xix. 10, 16, 27 ; Matt. iv. 

13, 15 

Zair, 2 Kings viii. 21 

Zalmon, Mounts Judges ix. 48 ; Psalm lxviii. 14* 

Zalmonah, Numb, xxxiii. 41, 42 

Zamzummims, Deut. ii. 20 

Zanoah, J. Zdml'a, Josh. xv. 34; 1 Chron. iv. 18; Neh. iii. 

13 ; xi. 30 

Zanoah, Josh. xv. 56 

Zaphon, G. Atroth-Shophan ? Josh. xiii. 27 

Zared, Brook, Wady el-Ahsy, Numb. xxi. 12 ; Deut. ii. 13, 

13, 14 

Zarephath (Sarepta), Surafend, 1 Kings xvii. 9, 10; 

Obadiah 20 

Zaretan, Josh. iii. 16 „ 

Zareth-Shahar, Josh. xiii. 19 

Zartanah, Zarthan, 1 Kings iv. 12; vii. 46 

Zeboiim, I Gen. x. 19 ; xiv. 2, 8 ; Deut. xxix. 23 ; Hosea 

Zeboim, j xi. 8 

Zeboim, (valley,) B. 1 Sam. xiii. 18 ; Neh. xi. 34 

Zedad, Sududf Numb, xxxiv. 8 ; Ezek. xlvii. 15 

Zelah, B. Josh, xviii. 28 ; 2 Sam. xxi. 14 

Zelzah, B. Zelah, 1 Sam. x. 2 

Zemaraim? B. Josh, xviii. 22 ; 2 Chron. xiii. 4 

Zemarites, Gen. x. 18 ; 1 Chron. i. 16 

Zenan, Josh. xv. 37 

Zephath, or Hormah, Nukb es-Sufah, Judges i. 17 

Zephathah, Valley of, 2 Chron. xiv. 10 

Zephon. See Baal-Zephon. 

Zer, N. Josh. xix. 35 

Zeradatha. See Zeredathah. 
Zered. See Zared. 

Zereda, 1 Kings xi. 26 

Zeredathah, or Zarthan, 2 Chron. iv. 17 

Zererath, M. Zartanah? Judges vii. 22 



31 46 

32 43 



3 1 45 
30 41 



3 2 34 



33 7 
3 1 33 



K. Long 

35°3' / 
35 18 

35 54 



35 9 
35 22 



35 23 



35 32 
34 57 



32 


45 


35 


20 


30 


40 


35 


40 


32 


1 3 


35 


1 


29 


35 


35 


10 


32 





36 





3 1 


46 


35 


7 


3 1 


3 1 


35 


1 2 


3 2 


23 


35 


4' 


3 1 


2 


35 


45 


33 


28 


35 


1 9 


3 1 


54 


35 


37 


3 1 


56 


35 


5° 


32 


32 


35 


25 


3 1 


34 


35 


3 1 


3 1 


5° 


35 


24 


34 


2 2 


36 


50 


3 1 


45 


35 


1 1 


3 1 


42 


35 


18 


3 1 


57 


35 


18 


34 


49 


36 





3 1 


33 


35 


32 


30 


59 


35 


*3 


3 1 


40 


34 


54 


33 


10 


35 


30 


32 


16 


35 


36 


32 


16 


35 


36 


32 


3 2 


35 


25 



* Salmon in the English trans., but in the Hebi'ew Zalmon. 



THE GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. 



595 



Ziddim, N. Josh. xix. 35 

Zidox. See Sidon. 

Ziklag, S. Josh. xv. 31 ; xix. 5 ; 1 Sam. xxvii. 6, 6 ; xxx. 

1, 1, 1, 14, 26; 2 Sam. i. 1; iv. 10; 1 Chron. iv. 30; xii. 

1, 20 ; Neh. xi. 28 

Zin, Wilderness of, Wady el-Arabah, Numb. xiii. 21 ; xx. 

1 ; xxvii. 14, 14 ; xxxiii. 36 ; xxxiv. 3, 4 ; Deut. xxxii. 

51 ; Josh. xv. 1, 3 

Zion, Sion, part of Jerusalem, 2 Sam. v. 7 ; 1 Kings viii. 

1 ; 2 Kings xix. 31 ; 1 Chron. xi. 5 ; 2 Chron. v. 2 ; 

Psalm ii. 6 ; ix. 11 ; xiv. 7 ; xx. 2 ; xlviii. 2, 11, 12 ; 

1. 2 ; li. 18 ; liii. 6 ; lxv. 1 ; lxix. 35 ; lxxiv. 2 ; lxxvi. 
2 ; lxxviii. 68 ; lxxxiv. 7 ; lxxxvii. 2, 5 ; xcvii. 8 ; xcix. 
2 ; cii. 13, 16, 21 ; ex. 2 ; exxv. 1 ; exxvi. 1 ; exxviii. 
5 ; exxix. 5 ; exxxii. 13 ; exxxiii. 3 ; exxxiv. 3 ; exxxv. 
21 ; exxxvii. 1, 3 ; cxlvi. 10 ; cxlvii. 12 ; cxlix. 2 ; 
Isaiah i. 27 ; ii. 3 ; iv. 3, 5 ; viii. 18 ; x. 12, 24 ; xii. 6 ; 
xiv. 32 ; xviii. 7 ; xxiv. 23 ; xxviii. 16 ; xxix. 8 ; xxx. 
19 ; xxxi. 4, 9 ; xxxiii. 5, 14, 20 ; xxxiv. 8 ; xxxv. 10 ; 
xxxvii. 32 ; xl. 9 ; xii. 27 ; xlvi. 13 ; xlix. 14 ; li. 3, 11, 
16 ; lii. 1, 2, 7, 8 ; lix. 20 ; lx. 14 ; lxi. 3 ; lxii. 1 ; lxiv. j 
10; lxvi. 8; Jer. iii. 14; iv. 6: viii. 19; ix. 19; xiv. j 
19 ; xxvi. 18 ; xxx. 17 ; xxxi. 6, 12 ; 1. 5, 28 ; li. 10, ! 
24, 35 ; Lamentations i. 4, 17 ; ii. 6 ; iv. 11 ; v. 11, 18; j 
Joel ii. 1, 15, 32 ; iii. 16, 17, 21 ; Amos i. 2 ; vi. 1 ; 1 
Obadiah 17, 21; Micah iii. 10, 12 ; iv. 2, 7, 11 ; Zeph. j 
iii. 16 ; Zech. i. 14, 17 ; viii. 2, 3 ; ix. 13 ; Matt. xxi. | 

5 ; John xii. 15 ; Romans ix. 33 ; xi. 26 ; Hebrews xii. j 
22; 1 Pet. ii. 6 ; Revelation xiv. 1. 

Zior, J. Josh. xv. 54 

Ziph, Siphmoth ? Josh. xv. 24 

Ziph, Tell Zif, Josh. xv. 55 ; 1 Sam. xxiii. 14, 15, 24 ; xxvi. 

2, 2 ; 2 Chron. xi. 8 

Ziphites, Ziphim, 1 Sam. xxiii. 19 ; xxvi. 1 ; Psalm liv. 

title 

Ziphrox, Numb, xxxiv. 9 

Ziz, Cliff of, Nukb 'Ain Jidy, 2 Chron. xx. 16 

Zoan, (Tanis?) Stint Numb. xiii. 22; Psalm lxxviii. 43 ; 

Isaiah xix. 11, 13 ; xxx. 4 ; Ezek. xxx. 14 

Zoar, Bela, Gen. xiii. 10 ; xiv. 2, 8 ; xix. 22, 23, 30, 30 ; 

Deut. xxxiv. 3 ; Isaiah xv. 5 ; Jer. xlviii. 34 

Zoba, Zobah, 1 Sam. xiv. 47 ; 2 Sam. viii. 3, 5, 12 ; x. 6, 8 ; 

xxiii. 36; 1 Kings xi. 23; 1 Chron. xviii. 3,* 5, 9; xix. 

6 ; 2 Chron. viii. 3 ; Psalm lx., title 

Zoheleth, 1 Kings i. 9 

Zophim, Field of, Numb, xxiii. 14 

Zophim. See Ramathaim-Zophim. 

Zorah, J. Zoreah, Zarea, Josh. xv. 33; xix. 41; Judges 
xiii. 2, 25 ; xvi. 31 ; xviii. 2, 8, 11 ; 2 Chron. xi. 10 ; 
Neh. xi. 29 

Zuph, Land of? 1 Sam. ix. 5 

Zur. See Beth-Zur. 

Zuzims, Gen. xiv. 5 



N. Lat. ] E. Long. 



3 1 33 



3° l 5 



34 39 



35 20 



3 1 


3° 


35 


7 


3 1 


18 


35 


1 


3 1 


28 


35 


l 5 


3 1 


30 


35 


9 


33 


20 


36 





3 1 


28 


35 


28 


3° 


58 


3 1 


48 


3 1 


l 7 


35 


38 


33 


5° 


37 





3 1 


46 


35 


l S 


3 1 


40 


35 


40 


3 1 


46 


35 


04 


3 1 


5 2 


35 


10 


32 





36 






* Uamath-zobah. 



,os 



Ot 



INDEX. 



Abarim, 380. 
Abarkia, 321. 
Abilene, 161. 

Absalom, tomb of, 347, 348. 
Adlun, ruins of, 183. 
Adonis, 43. 

Adonia, origin of the festi- 
vals of, 44; splendor of 
the feasts of, 45. 

Aholiab, tomb of, 159, 160. 

Ain Doureh, Ain Barideh, 
268. ' 

Ain el Haud, 377. 

Ain el Mezra'h, 209. 

X and the yj distinguished 
in the Talmud, 187. 

Ain es Sultan, 429. 

Ain Haramiyeh, 340. 

Ain Kefr Ferat, 327. 

Ain Yebrud, 340. 

Ammonite shell, 164. 

Ammonites, 321. 

Anemone, 295. 

Anjar fountain, 160. 

Ansarians, 85. 

Anti-Lebanon, 188. 

Antiochus, victory at the 
pass of, 133. 

Antonine road, 53. 

Antony, 144. 

Apsis, 323. 

Arch, 328, 329. 

Archers, ancient, 314. 

Arrangements for the route, 
103. 

Arrow-headed letters, 53. 
Arsinoe, 45. 
Artaxerxes III., 144. 
Asher, 144. 

Ashtaroth Karnaim, 47, 48. 
Assassin, origin of the 

meaning of term, 86. 
Astarte, 46, 144, 145. 
Asylum, origin of, 49, 50. 
Auwaly, 140. 



Baalbek, 107. 
Bab el Hauwa, 294 
Baca, 108. 

Bainbridge, Commodore, 

233, 234. 
Bal Bel Baal, origin of, 44. 
Baruk mountain, 160. 
Battle on the pass, 133. 
Battle of Philistines and 

Saul, 299; Amosis, 299. 
Beard important, 228. 
Beauty of Syrians, 100. 
Beautiful girls, 357. 
I Bedouin life name, 263. 
Bedouin women, 262. 
Bedouins of olden time, 373. 
Beer, 342. 

Beirut, 25, 42, 68, 110. 
Beisan, 292. 
Beit Ibzel, 327. 
Beit Eber, 327 ; arch, Goth- 
ic, Ac, 327, 328. 
Belad Besharah, 212. 
Belus, 43. 

Belus river sands used for 

glass, 167. 
Belvoir, 293. 
Bethel, 204, 341. 
Bethlehem, 354, 361. 
Bethlehem of Zebulon, 368. 
Bethsaida, 264. 
Bethshean, 304. 
Birds, 224, 301, 318. 
Bireh, Wady, 291. 
Bireh, 341. 
Blood-feud, 226. 
Bridges, 185, 186. 
Bteddin palace, 132. 
Biika'a, 107. 

Cactus, (ficus Indicus,) 88. 
Ctesarea Philippi, 293. 
Camels eating the thorn, 
119. 

Camel, uses and character 



of, 125; its hump, 126; 
burdens, 127 ; prices, 128 ; 
derivation of the word, 
129. 

Cana of Galilee, 276. 
Candy haly-way, 151. 
Capernaum, 251, 266. 
Cardinal points, 392. 
Carmel, Mount, 287, 292. 
Castle Belvoir, star-castle, 
293. 

Castle near Jericho, 400. 
Castle Rotback, 401. 
Castor-oil bean, 109. 
Cats eat up the King of 

Persia, 144. 
Caverns, 26, 56, 184, 267. 
Cedars of Lebanon, 162, 163. 
Chalcis, 160. 
Charms, 259. 
Cherith, 393. 
Chestnut-tree, 152. 
Chesulloth, 297. 
Childhood of Jesus, 289. 
Chinneroth, 270. 
Choosing a guide, 104. 
Chorazin, 264. 
Christian spy swearing, 116. 
Chronometer, accuracy of, 

18. 

Cidaris, spine of, 189. 

Cleopatra bewitches An- 
tony, 144. 

Coals, fire of, 213. 

Coele-Syria, 107, 158. 

Coffee-cup, or <, findjin,"136. 

Coffee, Lord Bacon's idea 
of, 136. 

Coins of Sidon, 145. 

Collyrium, origin of, 97. 

Conglomerate, 135. 

Conversation on absurdities. 
58. 

Costume at the mission - 
school, 112. 

597 



598 



INDEX. 



Cotton of Syria, 305. 
Crescent, 309. 
Crocus vernus, 295. 
Curious services of Jews, 
271. 

Cubit of Constantinople, 92. 
Cyclanum Europeum, 295. 

Daedalus the sculptor, 204. 
Dale, Lieutenant, 110. 
Dainouras, ancient river, 

131, 133. 
David's early life, 369. 
Dead Sea, 443. 
Deburieh, 291. 
Deir el Kanir, 132. 
Diodorus, 43. 
Djebea, 159. 

Djezzar the butcher, 79 ; his 

treachery, 80, 147, 286. 
Drah, 92. 

Dromedary, character of, 
126 ; swiftness of, 12S. 

Druzes, 65 ; first battle of, 
73 ; subjugation of, 7 6 : 
origin of name of, 78 : 
faith of, 82; hospitality 
of, 84. • 

Earliest inventions, 203. 
Earthquake, 243. 
Eastern salutations. 105. 
Eastward winds, 28. 
Ebal, 329, 332. 
Echinus, 177. 
Ed Duey, 293. 
Ela?agnus angustifolia, 265. 
Elijah hidden, Ac, 396, 399. 
Endor, 293. 
En Shemish, 377. 
Errors in chronometers, 19. 
Esdraelon, plain of, 307. 
Esseyeh, 321. 
Et Teim, 247. 
Exports from Beirut, 93. 
s, beauty of painting, 95. 



Fakhr ed Din, 54, 77, 78, 
79, 146. 

False weights, 93. 

Family worship at the mis- 
sion-school, 112. 

Fellahin, 375. 

Fendekumieb, 321. 

Figures, Turkish, 93. 

Fingers, eating with, 220. 

First views, 26, 28. 

Fish of Tiberias, 274. 

Flowers, 350. 

Flowers on the graves, 242. 
Forks first used, 220. 
Fountain of the Virgin, 285. 
Frank mountain, 361. 
Fuleh, 298. 



Fuller's notice of Sidon, 147. 
Funeral procession, 151. 
Fuwar and Farah, 384. 

Gamara, the, 273. 
Geological changes, 246. 
Geological shells, 321, 322, 
339. 

Gerizim, 329, 332. 
Gethsemane, garden of, 349. 
Getting lost, 67. 
Gibeah, 343. 
Giblites, 85. 
Gideon's victory, 308. 
Gilboa, Mount, 293, 308. 
Gilgal, 340. 
Glass of Sidon, 147. 
Gold-finding, 165. 
Graves, flowers on, 242. 

Habits of beating oneself 

wben angry, 36. 
Haddata, 235. 
Haddith, 235. 
Haifa, 292. 
Hairan, tomb of, 208. 
Hakim, 71, 72. 
Halycondria, 178. 
Hammath, 249. 
Hasbeiya Nahr, or Iiasbanv, 

15S. 

Hassan, the volunteer mis- 
sionary, 113. 
Hattin, 287, 292. 
Hauran, 255. 
Hazor, 341. 
Hebrew poetry, 313. 
Hebrew scholars, 272. 
Hebron, 363. 
Heldua, 130. 
Henna, 262. 
Hermit, 293. 

Hermon, Mt., 107, 157, 247. 
Herod's cruelty, 134. 
Herod Antipas, 270. 
Hero-worship, 43. 
Hesban. 411. 

Hester, Lady Stanhope, 154. 
Hinnom, 345, 346. 
Hiram, 205 ; tomb of. 208. 
Horn of Druzes, 69, 86. 
Hosea, tomb of, 244. 
Hours of day and night. 95. 
Huleh Lake, 108. 
Hulieh, 235. 
Hum Tell, 249. 
Hursh Beirut, 118. 

Idolatry, history of, 43, 48, 

49. 
Iksal, 297. 

Impost of arches, 328. 
Israelite patriarch, 29. 
Iturea, 255. 



Japhia, 286, 292; Sabt, 

Kefr, 292. 
Jalud, Ain, 304. 
Jeba, 321. 
Jebel Akkar, 164 
Jebel Baruk, 160. 
Jebel Duhy, 297. 
Jebel es Sheikh, 107. 
Jebel Fureidis, 361. 
Jebel Hattin, 292. 
Jebel Kuneiyiseh, 106, 107. 
Jebel Bihan. 157. 159. 
Jebel Sunnim, 39, 42, 106. 
Jenin, 318. 

Jericho and plain, 406-411, 
431. 

Jezebel, early education of, 
196. 

Jezrael, 303. 

Jezrael valley, 298. 

Jish, 238. 

Jisr el Kady, 132. 

Jonah's tomb, and the lo- 
cality of the Scripture 
account, 137. 

Jordan, head-waters of, 108. 

Joseph's pit, 248. 

Joseph's workshop, 283. 

Josephus the architect, 287. 

Jubb, Khan, 247. 

Judah Rabbi, 272. 

Julian, 153. 



Kabr Hairan, 208. 
Kanah of Asher, 208. 
Karnaim, 47. 
Kaukab el Hauwa, 293. 
Kelt, 392, 403. 
Kenna Kefr, 278. 
Khan Ain Burak, 170. 
Khantarah, 170. 
Khan Jubb, 247 ; et Tujjar, 
292. 

Khulda Khan, 129. 

Kishon River, 292. 

Knights Templars, 146, 382. 

Koran on postures in prayer, 
&c, 32, 34; on fighting 
for the faith, 35 ; on wives, 
63. 

Kubatiyeh, 319. 
Kulat el Bahr, 149. 
Kulat Ibn Ma'an, 268. 
Kumieh, 293. 
Kunawat, 48. 
Kuneiyiseh, 106, 161. 

Laaban, 339. 
Lamartine, 154. 
Landing in the rain, 37. 
Latimer on shooting, 317. 
Latin inscription at Naza- 
reth, 284. 



INDEX. 



599 



Latitude and Longitude, 
theory of finding, 18. 

Lebanon, 25, 26, 158. 

Lebanon by moonlight. 40. 

Lebanon, meaning of the 
word, 120. 

Lebonah. 339. 

Lejah, 292. 

Leontes, 1S5. 

Linaria Chalepensis, 25S. 

Little Hermon, 297. 

Little missionary, 114. 

Long shots, 316. 

Louis IX.. 116. 

Lubieh, 292. 

Luijun. 293, 301. 

Lulu, 113. 

Lydda, 51. 

Lysanias the Tetrarch, 161. 

Machserus, .321. 
Machpelah. 362. 367. 
Ma'derah. 292. 
Magdala, 219, 250, 268. 
Manuscript, Samaritan, 330. 
Maronites, 81. 
Mearah of Joshua. 1S1. 
Megiddo, 293, 301. 
Meiyiteh. Ain, 301. 
Mendel, 89. 
Meroni. waters of, 108. 
Meroz, 293. 
Mesr Kefr, 293. 
Metawileh Arabs, 203, 212. 
Mezar, 293, 308. 
Michmash, 381. 
Midianites, 52. 
Milestone, 169; Kasimiyeh, 
186. 

Mimosa, 110, 168. 
Mishna, 273. 
Mission-schools, 90. 
Moabites, 52. 

Mohammedan indifference. 
33. 

Mohammedan postures, 31, 
32. 

Molyneaux, Lieut., 110. 
Mosaics, 153. 
Mosaic near Jericho, 102. 
Mosque at Hebron, 361. 
Mountain-palace, 132. 
Muezzin-cry. 306. 
Mughiheh/l61. 
Mukhna. 338. 
Mukutta River, 292. 
Murex, 138. 
Murussus, 293. 
Musical remedies, 371. 

fabulous, 326. 
Xahr Damur, 131. 
Nahr el Kebir, 85. 
Nahr el Kelb, 52, 51. 



' Nahr er Auly, 110. 
| Nahr Ibrahim, 43. 
[ Nahr Kasimiyeh, 185. 

Nain, 293, 297. 

Names, signification of, 101. 

Narghileh, 217. 

Natural bridge, 55. 

Nazareth, 279, 280, 286, 290. 

Xazarene, 337. 

Nebo, 380. 

Neby Samwil, 311. 

Neby Seiud, 159. 

Neby Yunas, 136, 137. 

Nimrod, 43. 

Nubian boy, 31. 

Ochus Artaxerxes III. in- 
curs the hatred of the 
eunuch, 111. 

Oleander or Nerium, 121, 
187. 

Oman, camels of, 128. 
Omar, Mosque of, 351. 
Ophra, 310. 
Orange-tree, 168. 
Oriental idiom, 66. 
Orpheus and Dayid, 370, 
.371. 

Othoman. origin of the 
title, 64. 

Painting eyes, 95, 96, 97. 
Pashas of Egypt, 81. 
Perspective, mistakes in, 
288. 

Phoenicia, its influence, 51, 
52. 

Piastre, the yalue of, 39 ; its 

changes, Appendix II. 
Pik measure, 92. 
Pissah, 380. 

Plan of church, Tyre, 191. 
Plan of mosque at Hebron, 
364. 

Platinum, supposed site of, 

133. 
Pliny Fisk. 90. 
Ploughs, 123, 259. 
Poetry, Hebrew, 313. 
Politeness of a child, 124. 
Porphyrion, 138. 
Pots of dye examined by 

Wilde, 138. 
Ptolemy, defeat of, at the 

mountain-pass, 133. 
Ptolemy executes his son, 

160. 

Purple of Tyre, 138. 
Purpurifera, family of, 139. 

Quarantine, 35, 38. 
Quarantine kitchen, 41 . 
Quercus, 120, 296. 



Rachel's tomb, 372. 
Rakkath, 249. 
Ramah, 341, 343. 
Ras el Ain, 204, 205. 
Rayen, 122, 397. 
Raw fruit eaten in great 

amount. 116. 
Reineh, 279. 
Robbing travellers, 257. 
Rubbish and relics of Sidon 

sold, 148. 
Rufile-cup acorn, 120. 
Rummiet Rum, 156, 157. 

Safed, 240-244, 292 ; soil of. 
235. 

Saladin, 145, 287. 
Salim. 333. 
Salutations, 105. 
Samaria, hill of, 322, 325. 
Samaritan synagogue, 329. 
Sanchoniathon, 203. 
Sands encroaching, 118. 
Sanur, 321. 
Sarcophagi, 129. 
Sarepta, 174-176, 181. 
Science and missions, 102. 
Scilla maritima, 187. 
Scriptural illustration, 94. 
Scripture illustrations, 65, 
66, 85, 87, 95, 96, 97, 108. 
109. Ill, 116. 121, 122. 
147", 168, 169, 181, 184, 
195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 
204, 205, 206, 213, 215, 
219, 220, 251, 252, 253. 
254, 255, 256, 263, 267, 
272, 298, 308, 310, 311. 
312, 313, 314, 315, 325, 
326, 332, 333, 335, 336. 
367, 369, 378, 391, 399. 
404, 412, 413. 
Sculptures of the Lycus, 52. 
Seminary of young ladies, 
99. 

Semunieh, 286. 
Senik, Wady, 168. 
Sepphoris, 257. 
Serpents at Tiberias, 273 
Service, curious, of the J ews. 

271. 
Shajrah, 292. 
Shalem, 333. 
Sharon, 514. 
Shechem. 326, 333. 
Sheduf, 327. 
Shepherd kings, 299. 
Shiites and Sonnites, 212. 
Shiloh, 339. 
Shopping, 91. 
Shunem, 298. 
j Shuweifert. 119. 
| Sichem, 335. 
i Sidon, entering the town of, 



600 



INDEX. 



141; plan of harbor of, 
142 j other notices of, 143- 
152 ; its castle in the sea. 
149. 

Sidonian arts, 180. 
Signs of the weather, 111. 
Simsin seed, 151. 
Singular vegetation, 134. 
Sinjil, 340. 

Smith, Rev. Eli, 89, 99, 110. 
Sponges, 177, 178. 
Stanhope, Lady H., 154, 

155, 156. 
Stater of Alexander, 166. 
St. George and the dragon, 

27. 

St. John's tomb, 324. 
Stripping travellers, 382. 
Succoth, 308. 
Sugar, 429. 
Sunnim. (See Jebel.) 
Superstitions among the 

natives, 106. 
Surafend. Eas, 171. 
Surba, 159. 

Swearing common, 115. 
Sychar, 326. 
Syrian beauty, 100. 

Tabor, Mount, 253, 287, 

291, 294, 295. 
Taiyibeh, et, 340. 
Taking a wife's head offi 63. 
Talents, 325, 371. 
Talisman, 259, 261. 
Talkish, 231. 
Talmud, 272. 
Tamarisk, 122, 168. 
Tame birds, 174. 
Tamyras Eiver, ancient. 131. 
Tanur, 321. 



Taricha3a, 249. 

Tarshish, Wady, and Hu- 

weh, 26. 
Tear-bottle, 228. 
Teim, Wady et, 107. 
Tell Hum, 262. 
Temperature, 103. 
Temple, origin of the word. 

48. 

Temple, solitary, 236. 

Teraphim, 261. 

Thammuz of Maimonides, 

Appendix VIII. 
Thammuz of Ezekiel and 

Milton, 46. 
Tiberias, 273. 

Tiberias, Lake of, its length, 
255. 

Tibnin, 211, 227. 
Time-notation, Oriental, 94. 
95. 

Times of terror, 229. 
Tobacco, 209. 
Tom Niha, 160. 
Tomb of Hosea, 244. 
Tower of " Helena," 123. 
Tower on the coast, 124, 139. 
Trachonitis, 255, 292. 
Tribes, genealogy and his- 
tory of, 416-419. 
Tujjar, Ehan et, 292. 
Tumrah, 293. 

Turbans, ancient style, 77. 

Turkish nobleman, 30. 

Turkish contempt of Chris- 
tians, 34. 

Turkish husband, 62. 

Turkish passport, — Tezki- 
rah, 98. 

Turkish cruelty, 37, 230. 

Tvre. notices of, 190-197; 



fulfilment of prophecy 
concerning, 198 ,• cathe- 
dral of, 200 ; desolation 
of, 201; city of refuge, 
202. 

Tyrian purple, 138. 

Urchins, sea, or Echinides, 
177. 

Valley of Baca, 108. 
Variation of compass, 20. 
Vegetation, strange, 134. 
Venus, Cicero's classifica- 
tion of, 46. 
View from the steamer, 28. 
Virgin's tomb, 374. 
Volcanic rocks, 210. 

Wady, signification of, 121 . 
Wady en Nar, 347. 
Wady Fuwar and Earah, 
384. 

Wady Kelt, 384, 385. 
Wady Senik, 168. 
Well of Jacob, 334. 
Well on the road, 135. 
Wely Ismael, 280, 292. 
Wheat-crop, 275. 
Wines of Palestine, 281, 2S2. 
Witch of Endor, 310. 
Worship, family, at the 
schools, 112. 

Yafa, 523. 
Yankee clock, 94. 

Zakerany, 170. 
Zenodorus, 161. 
Zerin, 301. 

Ziziphus Vulgaris, 265. 



THE END. 



STEKEOTYPED BY L. JOHNSON & CO. 
PHILADELPHIA. 



APR2 3 wtt 



■ . m % 




005 20* 



499 6 



